Tubeless for sure, you can just tape the wheels and maybe put on some tubeless ready tyres. And I'd definitely put on a new fork if I had the money, because those Suntours feel ok at the start, but not long before the bushes have play and the seals are broken and yeah... Not good. Also the dropper post is the n.1 important thing.
Definitely a dropper. I used the PNW Rainier 27.2 on my sons bike and it has performed well. The drop might be a little short but definitely better than no dropper.
The park tool guys have a video on tubeless conversion, it seemed pretty straight forward, just tape, sealant, and a new valve involved. Is there something else going on with the rims that's preventing that upgrade?
My friend has this bike he just put gorilla tape and tubeless stems and tires and they hold air and then he got a KS lev dropper drilled a small hole on the back of the seat tube and installed a internally routed dropper
5 ปีที่แล้ว +5
Yeah my boy just did the same on his. The tubeless makes it almost 2lbs lighted makes a huge difference
The first bike company to offer a bike like this but with a tapered head tube, boost dropouts, and still keeping it under $600 will win best budget HT of 2019. 😎
@@roldiniamadeo7163 not really, it has worse brakes, and a 2x9 drivetrain. The frame is better for the long haul but if you buy it for 500, upgrade the forks, brakes, and drivetrain, then you are at 1100. I'm honestly not going to say that if you did all that it would be a bad bike for the price, but at that point you have other options at the same price point.
I'm selling off all my full suspension bikes. I just prefer the solid feel of a hardtail when pedaling and riding in general...Bought a Giant Fathom 1 Love it...
Hey man, are you still selling bikes off. I ask because I am a cancer patient who bikes avidly but here recently my DH bike was stolen and the replacement bike I bought just to puts around the trails on is all sorts of busted now sooooo man needs another bike lol. If you have a good bike that you can let go of at a decent price message me sometime. I use biking for my therapy (both physical and mental lol) so getting back out there once the Dr clears me would help a lot more than you know man.
Some changes & upgrades I recommend: 2:22 but a oval chainring. I would swap the rotors, and use metal pads. isg05 adapter BB adapter, E-Thirteen & MRP makes those absolute black oval bash guide would be good upgrade. 2:27 adjust the angle of the shifter so it's steeper, to avoid fatigue in the finger & get better leverage.
Very cool Josh helping Isaac out! For tubeless conversion, as already mentioned, the existing rims might work. I converted my girlfriends bike to tubeless using gorilla tape and they aren't tubeless rims and they have been holding air great for months now.
Gorilla tape worked like a charm for my old 26" bike. I also did the ghetto home brew sealant and it has lasted a very long time (16oz mold latex, 16oz automotive slime brand stop leak and 32oz rv antifreeze mixed well). It's cheap and works very well. The RV antifreeze is the kind for plumbing not for a radiator.
I love me Colorado plus. Just added rockbloks pedals, fifty fifty grips, amazon cheapo gel seat and a KS 100mm external dropper post. Couldn’t be happier with the money well spent.
Super cool video and kudos to you for helping Issac out with a new bike. Also, Issac is a natural on camera, he did a professional job! Looking forward to more in this series.
Fantastic video daily! Love to see people who have such a big influence on the mtb community putting their best foot forward. Your setting a good example for everyone watching! Keep it up.
Got one four weeks ago my fist one , changed out grips , pedals new handlebar on order . Going to add a dropper post. And maybe add hydraulic brakes to it, but have to say love it at 350.00 Had to tune in the shifter on it but other then that it’s been great so far, for a first time bike
@@DailyMTBRider My friend rides some regular 27.5 wire-bead tires, and he hasn't had many if any issues running them tubeless. I might try with these on my Colorado, because the factory tires are legitimate Kenda Havok sport tires, just with the cheap optioned wire beads.
I have this bike and it’s been a pain to try and get the tires to seat tubeless. Still have a couple more things to try, but it doesn’t look like it’s going to work.
4:24 I would swap the fork out, I don't trust the plastic top caps, and if recoil & the caps fail, it could cause to injury. but it might be possible to modify it, a metal top cap would be better. but as for the spring, it might be possible to get a lighter spring. the first bike might have had cracked hanger, from shipping or whatever, but it could also be your weight, and the hard riding you did, and you are probably heavier than he is, so there would be different amount of frame flex, but of course the hanger could be faulty. but on my 2014 Fuel EX, I keep wearing out hangers, I bend them due to flex, and eventually they fail, if riding long rides I have to true it. SO I will have to get new bike, I have worn out so many, I am on the last one now. but my old bike has been doing well, but geometry is a outdated, so slack sea tube angle and steep head angle, not great at all. I am really liking what I see with Nicolai & Pole, those angles make more sense.
I have converted wheels that were manufactured before tubeless was a thing so definitely not tubeless ready, I used caffalatex tubeless strips instead of tape and have not had any problem with them in over 2 years. I highly recommend these rim strips, they are made from silicone rubber so quite robust and re useable if wheel / rim needs to be changed.
Great video. I always wondered how a "decent" department store bike would do. There are too many videos of people trying to destroy department store bikes doing things that most people couldnt do on a 10k bike.
HAHAHA Isaac the savage, I love this bike I may try to pick one up eventually just because I want another hardtail didnt know about the seatpost though thanks for that!
Bottom bracket and crankset. Mine flex so much I strike the chainstay on the right side, and it's down to bare-metal and I've wrapped it in tape until I can be bothered to get a newer bottom bracket and hollowtech style 1x crankset
I had this issue on my first one. Realized it was actually frame flex causing the crank to hit the chainstay. Returned it to dicks and got a new one with no issues. My buddy bought one after that and he’s had the same striking issues on his bike that I had on my first one. You can see the frame flex on it pretty easily, I think since the chainstay doesn’t go all the way down to the bottom bracket on the drive side. Poor design with little tolerance. Besides that the bike is still awesome.
thx for sharing, you need to get that fixed this could be dangerous. are you sure it's the crank arm flexing and not loose crank arm? but it would not surprise me if you got problems with flex in the crank arm, this is a common problem on cheap bikes. cranks & bottom brackets that fail in days,weeks or months, depending on who rides it and how much.
Maybe I get a little carried away with upgrades on this bike but it is really one of those bikes that you just can’t quit building. My daughter bought the Nishiki Colorado for me last October and I loved it. Upgrades I have added include Raceface Chester pedals, ODI Rogue grips, Raceface Atlas 780 mm bar, Raceface Atlas 50mm stem, PNW Pine dropper post, Cobb Plus Saddle, SRAM X1 shifter(the NX shifter had issues), SRAM boost bottom bracket, SRAM Boost GX Eagle 32 tooth Crank and Arms along with a new SRAM chain. I would like to try the Cane Creek straight to taper Steering tube adapter so I could find a better tapered fork. And of course go tubeless. I have not had any issues with the mechanical brakes and until I do I will hold off on going to hydraulic. I am very happy with this beast I have created. If you have any experience with the Cane Creek conversion please let me know your opinion since it is really hard to find a straight tube fork that is too much improvement on the Suntour XCM that came on the bike.
I’ve been thinking of going tubeless, but it seems like almost every time I’m out riding with my buddies they end up having some kind of issue with their tubeless setup. I haven’t had a flat in almost a year running tubes, and I don’t really care about the extra weight so it makes it hard to justify the switch.
Last Christmas I got back into mountain biking after more than a decade. Thanks, Kevcentral and Seth Bike Hacks. I probably should have bought a Salsa Timberjack or a Trek Roscoe. Instead, I spent too much time and money upgrading the Nishiki Colorado Comp. That said, I had fun doing it. This is what I learned. 1) No you can't find some cane creek headset to run a tapered fork. Confirmed by the LBS. Trust me. I tried and returned 3 of them. 2) No. You can't find a fork with air suspension, straight 1 1/8 steer, and boost spacing (as of May 2019). 3) Add a short stem, better pedals, riser bar (if that's what you like) and an external bearing crankset. Then, stop upgrading. You'll have a great bike! Or you can go nutz like me... Bike on Black Friday $350 Spank Spoon stem and bars $70 Race Face Chester Pedals $45 Shimano XT hydraulic brakes $180 KS Lev dropper $110 (it has a lever on the post) SRAM NX Dub Crank & BB $125 My old saddle from 2002 $free Wait there's more... Monitou Markhor Air Fork $215 (straight steer, 9mm x 100mm QR) Mavic Crossride FTS-X 29 Front Wheelset $90 Maxxis Minnon Tire $49 Stan's sealant and valve stems $30 Cane Creek Headset with sealed cartridge bearings $42 BB tools $45 Headset tools $38 PVC pipe to set the crown race $5 Pipe cutter and star nut setter for the fork $30 Preowned Fox fork pump $30 The bike lost roughly 5 pounds and it rides like a $1,500 bike... And it should! I am still struggling to convert the rear wheel to tubeless... But that might be my fault. What's left from the original bike? Frame, seatpost clamp, SRAM NX shifter + derailleur + gears, rear wheelset + tube + tire.
Hello Sean, Would you happen to have a link to the SRAM NX Dub Crank & BB and Manitou Markhor Air Fork? I'm new to the upgrade scene and not tech savvy when it comes to knowing the dimensions of everything. Thanks.
Check out Lyne components for an internally routed dropper for that seatpost size! Cheap and very solid, I have one on my trek superfly 6 2016. Definitely worth every penny. I routed the cable through the one water bottle mount on the seattube because dropper definitely comes first over a second bottle!
Bought a boundary from good ol WALLYWORLD. Paid 138 on a return. I’ve put in about 300 since and love it! Don’t be afraid to look at the big box stores for decent UPGRADABLE bikes
My bike came with the same fork. I live in Illinois and after 5 months of riding the whole fork broke. A new fork will definitely help you if you do aggressive freeride style trails. (I live down south)
Rick Harrison it is a plastic ring that goes around the cassette and protect the chain from going into the spokes most people take it off because if you adjust your derailleur properly you don’t need it
I've been riding this bike for the past five years and I still love it. I also ride a Giant Talon 2 and, in some aspects, I prefer the Colorado Comp over it. 😂.
Here is trick you can try, for the mech brakes it is not the brakes itself but the levers, try a set of Avid FR5 levers they have more brake leverage then stock so-called brake levers that claim they work with mech disk brakes. That's if you want to stay within budget for the bike .
My MTB is Betta RoseTail 2019 model. I live here in the Philippines. Its worth $230 more or less and now since I have this bike sickness called UPGRADISITIS. Now my bike cost $450 on upgrades, tools and stickers. A fan from the Philippines!
After seeing your 1st video on the Nishiki Colorado I went out and bought one. I changed the bars (Renthal) , stem (Syncros) , seatpost (Tmars), and pedals (Specialized Bennies) immediately. These parts weren't necessary but they were laying in my garage. I'm tempted to get some good cranks for it. Just want to make it as cool as possible.
I used my REI rebate to pick up NX dub crank while it was on sale. No more creaking or flexing under my 190+ pounds. Kevcentral seemed to find a good cheap option. Check out his series on Project Hydro.
The Diamond Back Overdrive is a good bike. Though I think in this case it needed some maintenance. I have seen some reviews comparing both 3x and 1x setups, it seems the 3x is slightly better for long uphill rides when compared with the 1x setup. The biggest drawback is complicated gear changes, and possibly chain drops....
haha "you are fired!" I subbed! I can't wait to instal my dropper post to my Polygon D7. The upgrades I did so far is a Nobby Nic tyre and a Dropper post. I'm okay with running tubes. It will be fine for a few years now.
You could definitely make the stock rims tubeless, you just have to use the ghetto split tube method to get a nice tight seal on some non tubeless ready tire and rim combo.
Hi daily mountainbiker 🙂 can you tell me if it's worth it to upgrade a 400€ MTB with a 200€ fork? My main question is if I would bike hard how likely is it that the frame of the MTB breaks? It's the serious shoreline. Thank you.
Haha! I have a 2013 Diamondback sorrento 26 inch I used forever. Had the shocks upgraded to rockshox 100mm sette stem and bars and seat post. The 3x crank is the worst and just noisy. Sounds like it's broke. The rear derailleur cable frayed so I need to replace it then I am going to sell it. I have been wanting to replace the crank ever since I upgraded to a GT but they cost more than that bike is worth.
Being an old and heavier rider (215lbs) I'd spent the money on better wheels with minimum Deore 6000 hubs. It changes the feel and your riding smooth like butter. Nothing that says "formuala' hear that TREK? Great video, informative and not over the top in cost of a great bike.
My friend sold a Colorado to a guy for some downhill at Galb. The manual says not intended for downhill or jumps. My friend thought the guy who he sold to might have died. Looks like it's more than capable of some jumps and drops.
@dailymtbrider, did you or has Issac have any issues with the crankset or BB? I’m hearing a lot about creaking. I just picked one up over the Black Friday holiday. I got a ridiculous deal.
It’s great that you guys are able to make a box store bike more trail worthy but with the money being spent on upgrades you may as well get a better bike. This bike would be great if you have friends with spare parts laying around to upgrade.
You said new wheels are needed to go tubeless. I have heard the stock wheels are tubeless ready. Not sure if that's accurate but I have heard that. Might have been the kevcentral review.
Daily MTB Rider I did a poor mans tubeless conversion on my front tire of my nishiki Colorado comp using gorllia tape and orange seal from my local bike shop still holding up need to do the rear tire
upgrade the stem ,hande bar and brakes ,, and want to upgrade seat post ,wheels and fork ,, just buy a frame and install the parts you want in the first place ,
Thank you for doing this series, was really looking for a solid Mountain bike that won't break the bank. Only thing is we sadly don't have Dick's Sporting Goods in Canada lol
I would like to get a oneby oneday aswell but I'm currently riding a 3/9 and I just stay in gear 3 and only shift the back gears. Bike Makers hate this simple trick :p
3:53 bad saddle or abuse, like saddle too far to one direction, too much weight on it at a too extreme position will result in this. to me it looks like a lot of force went trough the front of the saddle, a bad landing maybe? I am not sure if swapping the seat post was necessary, as the seat post should not get any damage from this, unless it's made of absurdly weak alloy.
For the new owner, those plus size tubes are super expensive. I found I can buy 29er tubes for 5$ work just fine. Big box store sells them I buy 5 at a time. I wonder if these tires are more susceptible to damaged because they are softer.... any way I won’t pay 20$ for a tube
Hey Josh, I just moved to bellingham yesterday from Alaska. I'm looking into riding the area. I love to have you guiding me around the local trails. Let me know if you want to rip!!
Dicks website says they no longer sell the Nishiki Colorado Comp 27.5+, their new Nishiki men's mountain bike is like $300 retail, now they sell a GT Men's Aggressor Pro Mountain Bike for $670 retail, with okay reviews in their website.
The Nishiki is on to a new home, but what other upgrades do you think I should get for Issac? Let me know below!
Tubeless for sure, you can just tape the wheels and maybe put on some tubeless ready tyres. And I'd definitely put on a new fork if I had the money, because those Suntours feel ok at the start, but not long before the bushes have play and the seals are broken and yeah... Not good. Also the dropper post is the n.1 important thing.
Get the exaform dropper post on amazon it go’s all the way to 200mm drop
Definitely a dropper. I used the PNW Rainier 27.2 on my sons bike and it has performed well. The drop might be a little short but definitely better than no dropper.
The park tool guys have a video on tubeless conversion, it seemed pretty straight forward, just tape, sealant, and a new valve involved. Is there something else going on with the rims that's preventing that upgrade?
A 27.2 dropper (+1 the Rainier previously mentioned) and ghetto tubeless.
good to see a realistic video that can relate to a large proportion of the community
That’s the goal of these videos James! I love helping people find great bikes that don’t break the bank!
My friend has this bike he just put gorilla tape and tubeless stems and tires and they hold air and then he got a KS lev dropper drilled a small hole on the back of the seat tube and installed a internally routed dropper
Yeah my boy just did the same on his. The tubeless makes it almost 2lbs lighted makes a huge difference
Get a video of it.
He's doing it wrong, gorilla works but it is not nearly as effective flex tape
@@greg4275 if it works and holds air how is it less effective?
Heimdall r/woooosh
The first bike company to offer a bike like this but with a tapered head tube, boost dropouts, and still keeping it under $600 will win best budget HT of 2019. 😎
So true - we can only dream though
Don't forget hydraulic brakes, short stem, wide bars, tubeless tyres
Um, doesn’t the GT Ricochet (Pantera) 27.5 plus from Dick’s qualify for this???
@@roldiniamadeo7163 not really, it has worse brakes, and a 2x9 drivetrain. The frame is better for the long haul but if you buy it for 500, upgrade the forks, brakes, and drivetrain, then you are at 1100. I'm honestly not going to say that if you did all that it would be a bad bike for the price, but at that point you have other options at the same price point.
Trail Features too bad it's gone up to 800 now. Check current listings.
I'm selling off all my full suspension bikes. I just prefer the solid feel of a hardtail when pedaling and riding in general...Bought a Giant Fathom 1 Love it...
Hey man, are you still selling bikes off. I ask because I am a cancer patient who bikes avidly but here recently my DH bike was stolen and the replacement bike I bought just to puts around the trails on is all sorts of busted now sooooo man needs another bike lol. If you have a good bike that you can let go of at a decent price message me sometime. I use biking for my therapy (both physical and mental lol) so getting back out there once the Dr clears me would help a lot more than you know man.
@@joshuahubbard7300 F bro
@@finleyyymtb5776 f! Did he die!?
My brother bought a full suspension, I rode it two times and I hated how bouncy it feels. Hardtail all the way!
@@joshuahubbard7300 Nice E-begging
The same upgrades to the Diamondback would have been sweet too
True but the nishiki is better in most cases
Some changes & upgrades I recommend:
2:22 but a oval chainring.
I would swap the rotors, and use metal pads.
isg05 adapter BB adapter, E-Thirteen & MRP makes those
absolute black oval bash guide would be good upgrade.
2:27 adjust the angle of the shifter so it's steeper, to avoid fatigue in the finger & get better leverage.
Very cool Josh helping Isaac out! For tubeless conversion, as already mentioned, the existing rims might work. I converted my girlfriends bike to tubeless using gorilla tape and they aren't tubeless rims and they have been holding air great for months now.
Daily MTB Rider I’ve tried two strips of gorilla tape and still haven’t had any luck on this bike.
Gorilla tape worked like a charm for my old 26" bike. I also did the ghetto home brew sealant and it has lasted a very long time (16oz mold latex, 16oz automotive slime brand stop leak and 32oz rv antifreeze mixed well). It's cheap and works very well. The RV antifreeze is the kind for plumbing not for a radiator.
Ya, the ol' ghetto tubeless option would probably work!
@@studio4fifteen awesome tip
I love me Colorado plus. Just added rockbloks pedals, fifty fifty grips, amazon cheapo gel seat and a KS 100mm external dropper post. Couldn’t be happier with the money well spent.
Super cool video and kudos to you for helping Issac out with a new bike. Also, Issac is a natural on camera, he did a professional job! Looking forward to more in this series.
Issacs a pro! He’ll be back for sure
That bike is sick for the entry level rider, keep these vids coming!
Will do my dude! 🤙🏻
Nice improvements to the Colorado! I agree with the 27.2 dropper post, it's hard to find an internal cable one!
I did the SR Suntour upgrade program. Got to keep my old fork and got a 34mm stansion air fork with boost for $199. Free shipping.
What model did you get to fit this bike?
@@tuffguy11505 I don't have this bike. I have the Marin San Quentin
@@toanmaxdark7 ok thanks
What kind of fork because Durolux cost 400 bucks.
@@thiosemicarbizidebenzoylal2921 Sr Suntour XCR 34 air. Normally $300. If you get the upgrade program, it's $199. Free shipping
2:51 need a lawyer for that case...
Yep definitely
I don't get it
@@SebG-kz2sr a case in mountain biking is when you don’t go far enough so you land before the landing.
I followed your lead and got one from Dick's for $300. I bought it to introduce friends to mountain biking. It's still stock.
lol, it still in one piece 9 months later?
White Northman legend has it, he is no more
Fantastic video daily! Love to see people who have such a big influence on the mtb community putting their best foot forward. Your setting a good example for everyone watching! Keep it up.
Got one four weeks ago my fist one , changed out grips , pedals new handlebar on order . Going to add a dropper post. And maybe add hydraulic brakes to it, but have to say love it at 350.00 Had to tune in the shifter on it but other then that it’s been great so far, for a first time bike
The hell happened to that wtb saddle 😂😂
exactly!!! that's the main reason I clicked on here
Good on you for helping a riding buddy upgrade man!
It’s all about helping the good people around you who ride!
My first bike I made tubeless didn't have tubeless rims or tires. I just taped the rims and pumped in air before each ride.
I’ve heard there’s a few hacks, I think that’s what we’ll try next!
@@DailyMTBRider My friend rides some regular 27.5 wire-bead tires, and he hasn't had many if any issues running them tubeless. I might try with these on my Colorado, because the factory tires are legitimate Kenda Havok sport tires, just with the cheap optioned wire beads.
I did the same with my old 26"!
I have this bike and it’s been a pain to try and get the tires to seat tubeless. Still have a couple more things to try, but it doesn’t look like it’s going to work.
you can easily make that tubles the rims dont matter mostly just the tires and you can stil usualy make it work with more tape and sealent
*shred hard*
Ride Your Bike.... Shred Hard - haha!
4:24 I would swap the fork out, I don't trust the plastic top caps, and if recoil & the caps fail, it could cause to injury.
but it might be possible to modify it, a metal top cap would be better. but as for the spring, it might be possible to get a lighter spring.
the first bike might have had cracked hanger, from shipping or whatever, but it could also be your weight, and the hard riding you did, and you are probably heavier than he is, so there would be different amount of frame flex, but of course the hanger could be faulty.
but on my 2014 Fuel EX, I keep wearing out hangers, I bend them due to flex, and eventually they fail, if riding long rides I have to true it. SO I will have to get new bike, I have worn out so many, I am on the last one now.
but my old bike has been doing well, but geometry is a outdated, so slack sea tube angle and steep head angle, not great at all.
I am really liking what I see with Nicolai & Pole, those angles make more sense.
I have converted wheels that were manufactured before tubeless was a thing so definitely not tubeless ready, I used caffalatex tubeless strips instead of tape and have not had any problem with them in over 2 years. I highly recommend these rim strips, they are made from silicone rubber so quite robust and re useable if wheel / rim needs to be changed.
I never watch your videos to the end either, haha!
Convert then to tubeless! Both Stan’s and Orange Seal have kits to convert regular wheels/tires to tubeless...I’ve converted using Stan’s. Love ‘em!
Great video. I always wondered how a "decent" department store bike would do. There are too many videos of people trying to destroy department store bikes doing things that most people couldnt do on a 10k bike.
HAHAHA Isaac the savage, I love this bike I may try to pick one up eventually just because I want another hardtail didnt know about the seatpost though thanks for that!
What a goober - the best part is he probably won't see the end of this 😂
Great move on the Nishiki. Would be great to incorporate him and the Nishiki in future vids. If it was my bike, dropper post. Hands down.
Bottom bracket and crankset. Mine flex so much I strike the chainstay on the right side, and it's down to bare-metal and I've wrapped it in tape until I can be bothered to get a newer bottom bracket and hollowtech style 1x crankset
I'll have to look into that!
I had this issue on my first one. Realized it was actually frame flex causing the crank to hit the chainstay. Returned it to dicks and got a new one with no issues.
My buddy bought one after that and he’s had the same striking issues on his bike that I had on my first one. You can see the frame flex on it pretty easily, I think since the chainstay doesn’t go all the way down to the bottom bracket on the drive side. Poor design with little tolerance. Besides that the bike is still awesome.
thx for sharing, you need to get that fixed this could be dangerous.
are you sure it's the crank arm flexing and not loose crank arm? but it would not surprise me if you got problems with flex in the crank arm, this is a common problem on cheap bikes.
cranks & bottom brackets that fail in days,weeks or months, depending on who rides it and how much.
Maybe I get a little carried away with upgrades on this bike but it is really one of those bikes that you just can’t quit building. My daughter bought the Nishiki Colorado for me last October and I loved it. Upgrades I have added include Raceface Chester pedals, ODI Rogue grips, Raceface Atlas 780 mm bar, Raceface Atlas 50mm stem, PNW Pine dropper post, Cobb Plus Saddle, SRAM X1 shifter(the NX shifter had issues), SRAM boost bottom bracket, SRAM Boost GX Eagle 32 tooth Crank and Arms along with a new SRAM chain. I would like to try the Cane Creek straight to taper Steering tube adapter so I could find a better tapered fork. And of course go tubeless. I have not had any issues with the mechanical brakes and until I do I will hold off on going to hydraulic. I am very happy with this beast I have created. If you have any experience with the Cane Creek conversion please let me know your opinion since it is really hard to find a straight tube fork that is too much improvement on the Suntour XCM that came on the bike.
Kind Shock makes affordable dropper seatposts that have a lever underneath the saddle and do not require cable routing!
I’ve been thinking of going tubeless, but it seems like almost every time I’m out riding with my buddies they end up having some kind of issue with their tubeless setup. I haven’t had a flat in almost a year running tubes, and I don’t really care about the extra weight so it makes it hard to justify the switch.
Same exact thing here..I guess I'll do it when I finally get a flat
I have had my bike for 6 years with tubes and it only once had a flat
Last Christmas I got back into mountain biking after more than a decade. Thanks, Kevcentral and Seth Bike Hacks.
I probably should have bought a Salsa Timberjack or a Trek Roscoe.
Instead, I spent too much time and money upgrading the Nishiki Colorado Comp. That said, I had fun doing it.
This is what I learned.
1) No you can't find some cane creek headset to run a tapered fork. Confirmed by the LBS. Trust me. I tried and returned 3 of them.
2) No. You can't find a fork with air suspension, straight 1 1/8 steer, and boost spacing (as of May 2019).
3) Add a short stem, better pedals, riser bar (if that's what you like) and an external bearing crankset. Then, stop upgrading. You'll have a great bike!
Or you can go nutz like me...
Bike on Black Friday $350
Spank Spoon stem and bars $70
Race Face Chester Pedals $45
Shimano XT hydraulic brakes $180
KS Lev dropper $110
(it has a lever on the post)
SRAM NX Dub Crank & BB $125
My old saddle from 2002 $free
Wait there's more...
Monitou Markhor Air Fork $215
(straight steer, 9mm x 100mm QR)
Mavic Crossride FTS-X 29 Front Wheelset $90
Maxxis Minnon Tire $49
Stan's sealant and valve stems $30
Cane Creek Headset with sealed cartridge bearings $42
BB tools $45
Headset tools $38
PVC pipe to set the crown race $5
Pipe cutter and star nut setter for the fork $30
Preowned Fox fork pump $30
The bike lost roughly 5 pounds and it rides like a $1,500 bike... And it should!
I am still struggling to convert the rear wheel to tubeless... But that might be my fault.
What's left from the original bike? Frame, seatpost clamp, SRAM NX shifter + derailleur + gears, rear wheelset + tube + tire.
Hello Sean,
Would you happen to have a link to the SRAM NX Dub Crank & BB and Manitou Markhor Air Fork? I'm new to the upgrade scene and not tech savvy when it comes to knowing the dimensions of everything. Thanks.
Check out Lyne components for an internally routed dropper for that seatpost size! Cheap and very solid, I have one on my trek superfly 6 2016. Definitely worth every penny. I routed the cable through the one water bottle mount on the seattube because dropper definitely comes first over a second bottle!
“Ride bikes every day, make sure you do it...” Shred hard. 😂
It’s good that your mentoring the younger riders. Great job on the videos!!!
Bought a boundary from good ol WALLYWORLD. Paid 138 on a return. I’ve put in about 300 since and love it! Don’t be afraid to look at the big box stores for decent UPGRADABLE bikes
My bike came with the same fork. I live in Illinois and after 5 months of riding the whole fork broke. A new fork will definitely help you if you do aggressive freeride style trails. (I live down south)
Nice to see reviews based on what people can actually afford.
ha, I can't afford a $400 bike!
3:10 just for the people who were wondering I took of my dork disk by just smashing a screwdriver onto it
Same here. Almost bent the shit out of my spokes and cassette lol
Patrick Tapia wtf is a dork disc? Lol
Rick Harrison it is a plastic ring that goes around the cassette and protect the chain from going into the spokes most people take it off because if you adjust your derailleur properly you don’t need it
I've been riding this bike for the past five years and I still love it. I also ride a Giant Talon 2 and, in some aspects, I prefer the Colorado Comp over it. 😂.
Do the dropper. Best upgrade for a cheap bike other than a new fork.
Here is trick you can try, for the mech brakes it is not the brakes itself but the levers, try a set of Avid FR5 levers they have more brake leverage then stock so-called brake levers that claim they work with mech disk brakes. That's if you want to stay within budget for the bike .
I love mine, ride it all the time. Only dislikes for me are the pedals and the seat, needs dropper post definitely.
My MTB is Betta RoseTail 2019 model. I live here in the Philippines. Its worth $230 more or less and now since I have this bike sickness called UPGRADISITIS. Now my bike cost $450 on upgrades, tools and stickers. A fan from the Philippines!
After seeing your 1st video on the Nishiki Colorado I went out and bought one. I changed the bars (Renthal) , stem (Syncros) , seatpost (Tmars), and pedals (Specialized Bennies) immediately. These parts weren't necessary but they were laying in my garage. I'm tempted to get some good cranks for it. Just want to make it as cool as possible.
I used my REI rebate to pick up NX dub crank while it was on sale. No more creaking or flexing under my 190+ pounds.
Kevcentral seemed to find a good cheap option. Check out his series on Project Hydro.
Bike shops love guys like you! Change out your mechanical brake cables to jagwire and save your dough for a ground up custom build
The Diamond Back Overdrive is a good bike. Though I think in this case it needed some maintenance. I have seen some reviews comparing both 3x and 1x setups, it seems the 3x is slightly better for long uphill rides when compared with the 1x setup. The biggest drawback is complicated gear changes, and possibly chain drops....
Great to get this update
I have a Ks Lev Si 125mm for my 27.2mm seatpost on my specialized chisel comp
haha "you are fired!" I subbed!
I can't wait to instal my dropper post to my Polygon D7.
The upgrades I did so far is a Nobby Nic tyre and a Dropper post. I'm okay with running tubes.
It will be fine for a few years now.
I was wondering since you removed the water bottle bolts, how did you hide the holes in the frame?
looks like tape... maybe?
But a softer spring in the fork if you want, suntour has it on their website, it should be like 20 buck for a new spring, but you might need too
Take the stock tubes out and put in 26x1.9 tubes. They will be a bit lighter and you shouldn't have to worry about pinch flats running lower pressure.
Cranks and bb is a definite! Those are some wreak points.
New bike: $400, new parts: $0 lying around, saying the outro wrong: priceless.
You could definitely make the stock rims tubeless, you just have to use the ghetto split tube method to get a nice tight seal on some non tubeless ready tire and rim combo.
Its a good bike bro, I have a kona process 153 that came with nx drivetrain and race face cranks but I love it to bits
Hi daily mountainbiker 🙂 can you tell me if it's worth it to upgrade a 400€ MTB with a 200€ fork? My main question is if I would bike hard how likely is it that the frame of the MTB breaks? It's the serious shoreline. Thank you.
Hey Josh. So it's almost a year since you got Issac the comp. How's the bike doing. Everything you thought it would be? Still riding it?
Haha! I have a 2013 Diamondback sorrento 26 inch I used forever. Had the shocks upgraded to rockshox 100mm sette stem and bars and seat post. The 3x crank is the worst and just noisy. Sounds like it's broke. The rear derailleur cable frayed so I need to replace it then I am going to sell it. I have been wanting to replace the crank ever since I upgraded to a GT but they cost more than that bike is worth.
i recommend upgrading the shifter, best bang for buck in terms of drivetrain upgrades
Being an old and heavier rider (215lbs) I'd spent the money on better wheels with minimum Deore 6000 hubs. It changes the feel and your riding smooth like butter. Nothing that says "formuala' hear that TREK? Great video, informative and not over the top in cost of a great bike.
My friend sold a Colorado to a guy for some downhill at Galb. The manual says not intended for downhill or jumps. My friend thought the guy who he sold to might have died. Looks like it's more than capable of some jumps and drops.
@dailymtbrider, did you or has Issac have any issues with the crankset or BB? I’m hearing a lot about creaking. I just picked one up over the Black Friday holiday. I got a ridiculous deal.
It’s great that you guys are able to make a box store bike more trail worthy but with the money being spent on upgrades you may as well get a better bike. This bike would be great if you have friends with spare parts laying around to upgrade.
Go to a 1.75” front with a Slime heavy duty and a Vee hybrid knobby tire. You wont be disappointed.
Mountain biking looks really fun
I really like the concept of this test
Such a good video
Hey Daily MTB Rider I want to buy this bike but it is out of stock. In your experience with bike shop do you think they will have it back on stock?
Great video josh keep it up 🤘🏻
So what did Issac get when you eventually returned this bike? Did you do a follow up video with an update?
I have the Colorado as well! What is a good mud guard for the front like Issac has on his old bike?
You can make the wheels tubeless ready using the old innertubes.
This was an awesome video Josh! Hope the Nishiki lasts with Issac.
You said new wheels are needed to go tubeless. I have heard the stock wheels are tubeless ready. Not sure if that's accurate but I have heard that. Might have been the kevcentral review.
They are not tubeless read rims, I tried to convert them for long enough to know 😂
Daily MTB Rider I did a poor mans tubeless conversion on my front tire of my nishiki Colorado comp using gorllia tape and orange seal from my local bike shop still holding up need to do the rear tire
Thanks for the info
upgrade the stem ,hande bar and brakes ,, and want to upgrade seat post ,wheels and fork ,, just buy a frame and install the parts you want in the first place ,
Have you seen the schwinn axum? Looks pretty good for the money!
Thank you for doing this series, was really looking for a solid Mountain bike that won't break the bank. Only thing is we sadly don't have Dick's Sporting Goods in Canada lol
I would like to get a oneby oneday aswell but I'm currently riding a 3/9 and I just stay in gear 3 and only shift the back gears.
Bike Makers hate this simple trick :p
Great video!
Great vlog but so many upgrades, just the frame left to change.
3:53 bad saddle or abuse, like saddle too far to one direction, too much weight on it at a too extreme position will result in this.
to me it looks like a lot of force went trough the front of the saddle, a bad landing maybe?
I am not sure if swapping the seat post was necessary, as the seat post should not get any damage from this, unless it's made of absurdly weak alloy.
I’m an entry level rider and I purchased this exact same bike last summer! Thanks for showing some easy upgrades, love the channel 🤙🏻
you can run tubeless on a non tube less tires with gorilla tape and tubeless sealant for like 10 or 20 bucks.
Buddy says xc bikes aren’t legit mtb’s 😭😭😭 save our xc souls 😂
yeah... I ride my 15yr old Gary Fisher Artemis hybrid that was out for the trash... I did put a suspension fork on it and I love it
I'm definitely not hardcore like most of you guys, but I have fun
Xc is gay
@@08angler I agree my guy
I have an xcm fork, the first few months it was very stiff, it takes time to wear in in my experience
SHRED HARD!!!
Absolutely AMAZING improv
Way to put him on the spot tho XD
For the new owner, those plus size tubes are super expensive. I found I can buy 29er tubes for 5$ work just fine. Big box store sells them I buy 5 at a time. I wonder if these tires are more susceptible to damaged because they are softer.... any way I won’t pay 20$ for a tube
So this is an awesome bike as long as you upgrade everything. This should be a SNL skit , lol
Hey Josh, I just moved to bellingham yesterday from Alaska. I'm looking into riding the area. I love to have you guiding me around the local trails. Let me know if you want to rip!!
Possibility of putting tokens in the fork for better small bump at a low cost?
Best non budget hardtail 2019 nukeproof scout 275 comp
When you realise his 'bad' bike is better than your bike by miles
I have this bike and went tubeless on the rims with no issues !
You could have cut the seat post but whatever works
Have you heard of the Sirdar S-700? Could you do a review on that?
Great vid you do know about ghetto tubeless right? It works amzingly well
I’ve heard great things about it - I’ll need to give it a try for sure!
Biggest question?? How did u get ride of the water bottle cage mounts
Dicks website says they no longer sell the Nishiki Colorado Comp 27.5+, their new Nishiki men's mountain bike is like $300 retail, now they sell a GT Men's Aggressor Pro Mountain Bike for $670 retail, with okay reviews in their website.