Can appreciate these vids. They speak to people that dont have that irresponsible thousands of dollars to dump into a unrealistic build project. Plus gives people ways to still appreciate their own machine, and make a small hobby out of it.
Some advice from an old carb guy: Take a Dremel tool with a round 1/4" diameter carbide burr & grind off the upset end (not swedged) of the throttle blade screw flush with the throttle shaft. The screw will come out a lot easier & will reduce the chance of twisting off the head of the screw. Those tiny screws are a real pain to remove when that happens. Been there, done that. When reinstalling the screw be sure to use red loctite. Don't want the little screw vibrating loose & falling into the engine. A note on what you are attempting to do: Chrysler hires engineers to calculate the airflow through one of these things & they pay them a lot of money to do what they do. Do you suppose that the airflow through the smaller part of the air horn is the same as the airflow through the larger part minus the restriction caused by the throttle shaft & throttle plates? Is that a remote possibility?
Inside calipers require a very fine feel. Sometimes i have to check bores while the through bar is in the way, and you can't get inside mics through a tool slot in the bar.
That was actually an early form of “torque management” it decreased part throttle airflow without effecting full throttle airflow, a bench flow test I saw showed 120/240 cfm unported/ported at 25 percent throttle and 1200/1350 cfm at full throttle It also helped the cruise control work better
That was about my thoughts on it. Made tip in a bit more gentle. I haven't noticed any drawbacks when I went to the 53mm not having it scalloped. Take off was always fine but I never really use cruise control. I could see it causing cruise control to not function properly.
Chevy did something like that on the vortec engines the throttle body blades have a air defussrer they call it ..to mellow the snap off the line.didnt want to scare soccer moms .trim that off and they are "peppy" I think was said buy guys whom borrowed either 5.7 or even the 4.3 over and over the comments on the pedal response had to be good I was used to it as I modified them when I bought them even did the old ladies 99 escalade 5.7 vortec again .a good throttle body mod makes them jump off the line
The butterflies aren't completely flush for idle air still has to travel through it and at a angle you may not see daylight but just enough air travels through to keep it idling smooth
Exactly which is why we can open the bores and close the butterflies a bit to compensate and take advantage of the area. Downside is it makes the first degree or two of the throttle about useless. It is at an angle so that it smoothly transitions but with the blade flat it has to rotate much more before it starts exposing any usable area. There's always a trade off.
I did one years ago I flattened the shaft down a bit and added locktite to the screws and also flattened the top of the tb I cut off the top air horns or venturies and blended the top of the bores the get a nice transition for the air to pull in basically like Hughes does to there tb's that and a 3/4 keg mod and headers really made good improvements. Later on I changed out the ecm with a programmable standalone I used a megasquirt with an older style dodge distributor just remember to swap out the distributor gear for the magnum roller cam gear and used a old dodge external voltage regulator to get the alternator charging since the factory ecm had the regulator built into it. After I got the timing and fueling tables dialed in and bumped the rev limiter up to 5800 rpm the stock rev limiter was 5250rpm if I remember and a crappy lag in between once it hit rev limit but with the standalone it really woke it up was like a whole different animal surprised alot of people that couldn't believe it was just a stock internal 318.
The throttle body and the kegger mod is definitely worth doing. I could feel the improvement with the ported throttle body and the 53mm throttle bodies Iv been boring out have added even more I'm also shifting at 5800 I wish I knew how much rpm the crank would hold cause power isn't falling off even at 6000 now
@@thomasbeyer Definitely the kegger intake velocity modification and also have the stock cam reground to David Vizard duration specs including LCA giving the Magnum 360 what it wants. Could only imagine what the HP and Torque numbers would be with those mod's.
I Love your r/t, i got a solar yeller 99. Sssslid into a tree tryin to drift, did some damage to the front but just cosmetic. Got a new fender plasti dipped them black (i was lazy on the other original one and didnt sand it, just got the loose clear coat off) ive been trying to find a decent priced 4or 3 bbl but near impossible unless you wanna spend 500+ and none are in stock. I got the hughes, i think it made a difference but i put their air gap on and now i hate it because its just a carb manifold with efi ports. And i think the runners with the ribs makes it worse. It does better than the kegger and holds pretty much the same power band but still feels held back past 4k rpm
Thank you. I will be trying a dual plane soon hopefully it gets me over 350 rwhp im at 307 as of the last Dyno video with the ported stock throttle body iv been boring throttle bodies out to 53mm I seems to pull harder up top that should help with my power goal too. If you have any interest in that let me know I'm getting a couple ready.
I'm also on the fence about using the carb manifolds but we will see what it does i don't want to sacrifice a lot of bottom end for only a little power up top but if it can add 30-40 hp and not lose much low end I'd be happy
It's the camshaft holding it back. The factory 5.9L Magnum camshaft is actually less aggressive than the 5.2L camshaft. It's not a really good idea to push these engines much past 5k RPM because they have cast pistons and they shatter. Just ask my Durango. 🤣 I just finished replacing the engine a few hours ago. 5500 RPM 💥 That's what the machinist told me anyway.
@@thomasbeyer Check out the episode of engine masters where they dyno a stock kegger and a stage 1 from Utawsome performance as well as different throttle bodies. then they do an M1 and the last one I forget, but it was better everywhere and much better on top. I have it recorded and need to check it out again.
@@jlsracing997 IV watched it several times. It was nice seeing some content that relates to mine. I was surprised how little of a difference the throttle made. Until I started boring throttle bodies out to 52mm and 53mm. On the dyno the bored throttle bodies didn't make any more power than the ported throttle body. But I never did a stock vs ported on the dyno I wish I had now. But I'm way beyond that now lol.
Would doing this to a completely stock truck even really help anything? It would be cool to do to my truck if it makes a difference, but I feel like that tiny bit more air wouldn't help when my airflow isn't improved anywhere else. then again they could be choked off, I know next to nothing about the magnum motors. on the same note, would buying JUST a bigger throttle body help anything?
If it makes a difference it will be at high rpm. If you have a scanner you can watch MAP and if on a full throttle pass it starts dropping then it would benefit from a larger throttle body.
@@thomasbeyer Unfortunately I don't have a scanner atm, but it *feels* like it lays over pretty hard up top. I've been debating getting an MPVI2 to datalog and possibly tune my truck to see if I can get better throttle response and see if any performance is left on the table though.
you can open it up, but you lose velocity as they are machined to have a slight venturi effect. porting the keg and installing a Hughes plenum plate are great upgrades as the casting flash in the kegs is terrible. you could easily spend an hour or two just smoothing out and blending all the edges and contours in the intake.
Definitely worth spending some time working the kegger. In my kegger mod video we picked up 15-20 hp and torque with no loss and that was picked up over an already modified kegger just took the porting a lot further I wish I did a stock intake Dyno I didn't think the one I originally had on it in the first Dyno video was that modified but I just started another kegger and compared the two and my dyno video labeled stock it's not really stock it's already had a good bit of work done.
@@thomasbeyer although there is no carb its more about keeping the keg full of air and low end throttle response. If you lose velocity through the throttle body you will lose response, especially when passing and and stuff like that.
From stock to ported it's more responsive everywhere and from ported to 53 is more responsive everywhere there's no dead spot there's no lack of acceleration anywhere. From my previous experience testing on eddy current dynos if the engine is capable of making it to a certain RPM under a certain load it doesn't matter where you put the throttle it makes the same amount of torque the same amount of horsepower if your quarter throttle or wide open.
It is common for a stock 5.9 to pick up 6-8hp from this almost free mod. And it can be done much better than the quickie job I did back then. Yes the cam is restrictive so is the kegger intake and the factory exhaust manifolds but you've got to start somewhere.
@@blackericdenice that's beside the point on a stock 5.9 it's 6 to 8 horsepower regardless of which factory cam. I've dynoed several factory 5.9 rams and my Dakota RT they make the exact same power.
@@thomasbeyer You are not gaining 6 to 8 hp from the tb because the cam is the restriction. You are not talking to someone who started working on cars when they bought a laptop. No tb on any car is restricting hp. TB control when an engine make peak hp. The cam control how much peak hp.
I need a different air box or silencer box. Hell ever they call it. Air intake. The stock air intake sucks. I have tried couple gaskets and tried fish tank tubing and made my own gasket. Still suckin air around where it connects to the T.B
They look interesting. IV gotten mine really close to 1000cfm now that I have a milling machine and have been making mine 53mm but their price is good.
@thomasbeyer Kool thanks. Just seems stange that one saids it but others don't. I have one from a 1999 5.9 didn't say Holly but one off my 1995 5.9 said it.
Mine has a 236/242 110ls .530 lift cam now. Definitely have to tune it. Even the small shelf comp cam needed some tuning to keep it from flooding itself at idle.
Hi Thomas, I have a question for you. I have a 1996 Dodge Indy Pace Truck and was wondering how you got the cam and headers to work with the PCM? I know my PCM can’t be tuned. I did add a chip, but again how did you get all the mods you did to work on your 5.9. Thank you for any tips.
@@jritcey108 if you send me one I can port it for you. Iv got a milling machine now so I don't hand port them. They are much easier and the end product is much nicer.
I also watched your video on kegger porting. Do you think if the runners were left longer it would help with torque? I'm trying to get as much torque as I can from 1500 rpm up
I got a v8 magnum 5.9 for my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. It use to drive but now it starts but when out in reverse or drive it dies. I replaced the battery and the iac I also cleaned the throttle body. Do u have any ideas what it could be I’m tired of spending so much money for it.
My 1995 with the 5.2 did that, turned out it was the catalytic converter. The ceramic inside had broke in half and was shifting just enough for the holes in it not to line up.
Had several do that after dead batteries especially if they sit idk why but these will struggle with relearning the idle. Only consistent way I've found (we had 15 of them at one time so I had a fleet to try on) was to rape the throttle after starting then for a few times then hold the idle high around 2000rpm for 2-5 minutes then they will be just fine. Just got to beat it a bit like a good old whore
That was exactly what I was going to ask poster; if he still had cats or deleted the O2s. Ive been driving a 2003 that has the exact opposite problem; dying at idle, but fine otherwise. Both O2s are present, but previous owner deleted cats, ran straight pipes, with no tune. I wish I knew a bit about tune. I'd love to turn off O2s.
@@thomasbeyer I just put a Comp cam 20-604-9. Did a full rebuild actually. Just now figure out the fuel sync crap. Had me going crazy. I'm putting It back together soon. Do you have a special way that you set the sync that lines up with distributor correct?
Knock those screws down a bit and maybe try get some countersunk a bit better, also knife edge the leading edge of the blades just a bit. I think you could take one of your spares and make a plate out of scrap if you took the time to make a large single oval and cut the center from the body yourself. I did this years ago and never finished the project but now that my ZJ is cammed I've been thinking of doing it again
@@thomasbeyer because the manifold only needs to move air, I thought about a single plane, maybe like an old Torker 2 and drill the heads for the La bolt pattern and and install the injectors in the runners.
@@thomasbeyer how much to port a tb and keg with shipping? I’d do it this way like in the vid but if you’re milling them out I may be interested. Looking for parts to complete a reman small block 5.9 to replace the 3.9 I have now. Swapping the 42re to 46re reman as well so i know I’ll have to do a bit of wiring and swap ecu as well. Anyways, im sure you have a market
Idk if that's entirely true because of it pulling manifold vacuum in the higher rpms it causes it to run below the 100kpa load cells so if it wasn't pulling vacuum it would be running in cells that are already giving more fuel so I guess it does self correspond I will explain in detail in a later video
Can appreciate these vids. They speak to people that dont have that irresponsible thousands of dollars to dump into a unrealistic build project. Plus gives people ways to still appreciate their own machine, and make a small hobby out of it.
Some advice from an old carb guy: Take a Dremel tool with a round 1/4" diameter carbide burr & grind off the upset end (not swedged) of the throttle blade screw flush with the throttle shaft. The screw will come out a lot easier & will reduce the chance of twisting off the head of the screw. Those tiny screws are a real pain to remove when that happens. Been there, done that. When reinstalling the screw be sure to use red loctite. Don't want the little screw vibrating loose & falling into the engine. A note on what you are attempting to do: Chrysler hires engineers to calculate the airflow through one of these things & they pay them a lot of money to do what they do. Do you suppose that the airflow through the smaller part of the air horn is the same as the airflow through the larger part minus the restriction caused by the throttle shaft & throttle plates? Is that a remote possibility?
Idk planning on dynoing this weekend hopefully it comes through and we will have numbers to look at stock vs ported and then bored from 50mm to 53mm
Inside calipers require a very fine feel. Sometimes i have to check bores while the through bar is in the way, and you can't get inside mics through a tool slot in the bar.
👍💪 Very cool info.
I've got 3-4 of these and planned to just mill and blend. I may open up some after seeing this.
you can knife edge the blades and grind the shafts flat,not to much though. old holley drag mod
That was actually an early form of “torque management” it decreased part throttle airflow without effecting full throttle airflow, a bench flow test I saw showed 120/240 cfm unported/ported at 25 percent throttle and 1200/1350 cfm at full throttle
It also helped the cruise control work better
That was about my thoughts on it. Made tip in a bit more gentle. I haven't noticed any drawbacks when I went to the 53mm not having it scalloped. Take off was always fine but I never really use cruise control. I could see it causing cruise control to not function properly.
Chevy did something like that on the vortec engines the throttle body blades have a air defussrer they call it ..to mellow the snap off the line.didnt want to scare soccer moms .trim that off and they are "peppy" I think was said buy guys whom borrowed either 5.7 or even the 4.3 over and over the comments on the pedal response had to be good I was used to it as I modified them when I bought them even did the old ladies 99 escalade 5.7 vortec again .a good throttle body mod makes them jump off the line
Definitely makes it peppy. Well worth a little grinding.
Well made video, I've thought about trying my hand at modifying mine for my stock 5.2 to try to improve mileage and maybe get some power too
A real mechanic that's how it's done
The butterflies aren't completely flush for idle air still has to travel through it and at a angle you may not see daylight but just enough air travels through to keep it idling smooth
Exactly which is why we can open the bores and close the butterflies a bit to compensate and take advantage of the area. Downside is it makes the first degree or two of the throttle about useless. It is at an angle so that it smoothly transitions but with the blade flat it has to rotate much more before it starts exposing any usable area. There's always a trade off.
I did one years ago I flattened the shaft down a bit and added locktite to the screws and also flattened the top of the tb I cut off the top air horns or venturies and blended the top of the bores the get a nice transition for the air to pull in basically like Hughes does to there tb's that and a 3/4 keg mod and headers really made good improvements.
Later on I changed out the ecm with a programmable standalone I used a megasquirt with an older style dodge distributor just remember to swap out the distributor gear for the magnum roller cam gear and used a old dodge external voltage regulator to get the alternator charging since the factory ecm had the regulator built into it.
After I got the timing and fueling tables dialed in and bumped the rev limiter up to 5800 rpm the stock rev limiter was 5250rpm if I remember and a crappy lag in between once it hit rev limit but with the standalone it really woke it up was like a whole different animal surprised alot of people that couldn't believe it was just a stock internal 318.
The throttle body and the kegger mod is definitely worth doing. I could feel the improvement with the ported throttle body and the 53mm throttle bodies Iv been boring out have added even more I'm also shifting at 5800 I wish I knew how much rpm the crank would hold cause power isn't falling off even at 6000 now
@@thomasbeyer Definitely the kegger intake velocity modification and also have the stock cam reground to David Vizard duration specs including LCA giving the Magnum 360 what it wants. Could only imagine what the HP and Torque numbers would be with those mod's.
I Love your r/t, i got a solar yeller 99. Sssslid into a tree tryin to drift, did some damage to the front but just cosmetic. Got a new fender plasti dipped them black (i was lazy on the other original one and didnt sand it, just got the loose clear coat off) ive been trying to find a decent priced 4or 3 bbl but near impossible unless you wanna spend 500+ and none are in stock. I got the hughes, i think it made a difference but i put their air gap on and now i hate it because its just a carb manifold with efi ports. And i think the runners with the ribs makes it worse. It does better than the kegger and holds pretty much the same power band but still feels held back past 4k rpm
Thank you. I will be trying a dual plane soon hopefully it gets me over 350 rwhp im at 307 as of the last Dyno video with the ported stock throttle body iv been boring throttle bodies out to 53mm I seems to pull harder up top that should help with my power goal too. If you have any interest in that let me know I'm getting a couple ready.
I'm also on the fence about using the carb manifolds but we will see what it does i don't want to sacrifice a lot of bottom end for only a little power up top but if it can add 30-40 hp and not lose much low end I'd be happy
It's the camshaft holding it back. The factory 5.9L Magnum camshaft is actually less aggressive than the 5.2L camshaft. It's not a really good idea to push these engines much past 5k RPM because they have cast pistons and they shatter. Just ask my Durango. 🤣 I just finished replacing the engine a few hours ago. 5500 RPM 💥 That's what the machinist told me anyway.
@@thomasbeyer Check out the episode of engine masters where they dyno a stock kegger and a stage 1 from Utawsome performance as well as different throttle bodies. then they do an M1 and the last one I forget, but it was better everywhere and much better on top. I have it recorded and need to check it out again.
@@jlsracing997 IV watched it several times. It was nice seeing some content that relates to mine. I was surprised how little of a difference the throttle made. Until I started boring throttle bodies out to 52mm and 53mm. On the dyno the bored throttle bodies didn't make any more power than the ported throttle body. But I never did a stock vs ported on the dyno I wish I had now. But I'm way beyond that now lol.
Would doing this to a completely stock truck even really help anything? It would be cool to do to my truck if it makes a difference, but I feel like that tiny bit more air wouldn't help when my airflow isn't improved anywhere else. then again they could be choked off, I know next to nothing about the magnum motors.
on the same note, would buying JUST a bigger throttle body help anything?
If it makes a difference it will be at high rpm. If you have a scanner you can watch MAP and if on a full throttle pass it starts dropping then it would benefit from a larger throttle body.
@@thomasbeyer Unfortunately I don't have a scanner atm, but it *feels* like it lays over pretty hard up top. I've been debating getting an MPVI2 to datalog and possibly tune my truck to see if I can get better throttle response and see if any performance is left on the table though.
That's the way to go. Iv had good luck with the mpvi2 and hptuners
Definitely excited to see what your results are.
you can open it up, but you lose velocity as they are machined to have a slight venturi effect. porting the keg and installing a Hughes plenum plate are great upgrades as the casting flash in the kegs is terrible. you could easily spend an hour or two just smoothing out and blending all the edges and contours in the intake.
It's not a carb there's no need to have a venturi or high velocity right there
Definitely worth spending some time working the kegger. In my kegger mod video we picked up 15-20 hp and torque with no loss and that was picked up over an already modified kegger just took the porting a lot further I wish I did a stock intake Dyno I didn't think the one I originally had on it in the first Dyno video was that modified but I just started another kegger and compared the two and my dyno video labeled stock it's not really stock it's already had a good bit of work done.
@@thomasbeyer although there is no carb its more about keeping the keg full of air and low end throttle response. If you lose velocity through the throttle body you will lose response, especially when passing and and stuff like that.
From stock to ported it's more responsive everywhere and from ported to 53 is more responsive everywhere there's no dead spot there's no lack of acceleration anywhere. From my previous experience testing on eddy current dynos if the engine is capable of making it to a certain RPM under a certain load it doesn't matter where you put the throttle it makes the same amount of torque the same amount of horsepower if your quarter throttle or wide open.
I am enjoying the conversation I hope you don't feel attacked usually when I comment back people get upset
The throttle body is not restricting hp. You have to change the cam.
It is common for a stock 5.9 to pick up 6-8hp from this almost free mod. And it can be done much better than the quickie job I did back then. Yes the cam is restrictive so is the kegger intake and the factory exhaust manifolds but you've got to start somewhere.
@@thomasbeyer The Dakota R/T use the same throttle body and the regular 5.9 yet it make more hp because it has a hotter cam.
@@blackericdenice that's beside the point on a stock 5.9 it's 6 to 8 horsepower regardless of which factory cam. I've dynoed several factory 5.9 rams and my Dakota RT they make the exact same power.
@@thomasbeyer You are not gaining 6 to 8 hp from the tb because the cam is the restriction. You are not talking to someone who started working on cars when they bought a laptop. No tb on any car is restricting hp. TB control when an engine make peak hp. The cam control how much peak hp.
@@blackericdenice and the several Dyno videos on my channel those probably aren't real are they? Yep I haven't been doing this for a long time lol.
That sounds like heaven 😍
60s max wedge style scoop was my choice as well
I need a different air box or silencer box. Hell ever they call it. Air intake. The stock air intake sucks. I have tried couple gaskets and tried fish tank tubing and made my own gasket. Still suckin air around where it connects to the T.B
Are you trying to seal it off for off-road purposes? They are expensive but the supercharger hats might seal better
I ordered one from hughes it's a stock throttle body bored out called the big gulp
They look interesting. IV gotten mine really close to 1000cfm now that I have a milling machine and have been making mine 53mm but their price is good.
Why is one carb Holly and the other saids nothing? My dodge has a Holly also. Did you measure the Holly?
They are both the same size. I believe they are all made by holley as well. Iv done about an equal amount of both.
@thomasbeyer Kool thanks. Just seems stange that one saids it but others don't. I have one from a 1999 5.9 didn't say Holly but one off my 1995 5.9 said it.
What size cam are you running and did you have to have ecm programmed?
Mine has a 236/242 110ls .530 lift cam now. Definitely have to tune it. Even the small shelf comp cam needed some tuning to keep it from flooding itself at idle.
The v6 is 2mm smaller than the 5.9/5.2 throttle body
BTW, i love the scoop. Want one for my 71 Satellite. Got a link 🔗?
www.ebay.com/itm/Hemi-Hood-Scoop-Grey-Dodge-Dart-Cuda-LO23-BO29-Bolt-on-/265238438095?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Hi Thomas, I have a question for you. I have a 1996 Dodge Indy Pace Truck and was wondering how you got the cam and headers to work with the PCM? I know my PCM can’t be tuned. I did add a chip, but again how did you get all the mods you did to work on your 5.9. Thank you for any tips.
You can tune the OBD2 jtec pcm's with hptuners. I tune jtec vehicle's too.
Need the sensor that uses on this
My t/b has Holley cast into the top
Most of the magnum throttle bodies do. Holley produced them for dodge
my 5.2 and 5,9 are the same size bores
Good to know I assumed so but never checked
Iv ordered a mill and hopefully will be set up to bore these things properly soon
You can Sharpen the edges of the blades like a knife.
Throttle bodies mean a lot more with boost.
How much difference did your mods make?
You can feel a significant throttle response gain. There are Dyno for the bigger mods
Would you sell one of your ported throttle body?
@@jritcey108 if you send me one I can port it for you. Iv got a milling machine now so I don't hand port them. They are much easier and the end product is much nicer.
Where are you located?
I also watched your video on kegger porting. Do you think if the runners were left longer it would help with torque? I'm trying to get as much torque as I can from 1500 rpm up
Is it worthless 2 do.. ? On my o3 qc dakota.. wich I luv an want it 2 be a hotrod!@
I put a V-8 throttle body on my 02 dak. .10 over bore,milled heads and,a MP computer. I couldn't tell the difference.
Good luck
what are u tryin to do get more hp
Yes always.
I got a v8 magnum 5.9 for my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. It use to drive but now it starts but when out in reverse or drive it dies. I replaced the battery and the iac I also cleaned the throttle body. Do u have any ideas what it could be I’m tired of spending so much money for it.
If you keep your foot in the throttle does it stay running in drive or reverse?
My 1995 with the 5.2 did that, turned out it was the catalytic converter. The ceramic inside had broke in half and was shifting just enough for the holes in it not to line up.
Had several do that after dead batteries especially if they sit idk why but these will struggle with relearning the idle. Only consistent way I've found (we had 15 of them at one time so I had a fleet to try on) was to rape the throttle after starting then for a few times then hold the idle high around 2000rpm for 2-5 minutes then they will be just fine. Just got to beat it a bit like a good old whore
That was exactly what I was going to ask poster; if he still had cats or deleted the O2s. Ive been driving a 2003 that has the exact opposite problem; dying at idle, but fine otherwise. Both O2s are present, but previous owner deleted cats, ran straight pipes, with no tune. I wish I knew a bit about tune. I'd love to turn off O2s.
Does that engine have a different cam?
Yes. Comp 20-746-9
@@thomasbeyer I just put a Comp cam 20-604-9. Did a full rebuild actually. Just now figure out the fuel sync crap. Had me going crazy. I'm putting It back together soon.
Do you have a special way that you set the sync that lines up with distributor correct?
@@Journey2Justice2025 my scanner shows the sync angle. That's the only way I know how.
@@thomasbeyer Yup, from all the research I've done. That seem to be it. Thanks bro.
Knock those screws down a bit and maybe try get some countersunk a bit better, also knife edge the leading edge of the blades just a bit. I think you could take one of your spares and make a plate out of scrap if you took the time to make a large single oval and cut the center from the body yourself. I did this years ago and never finished the project but now that my ZJ is cammed I've been thinking of doing it again
Iv been thinking the same thing about making mono blade out of one of my spares
It will take a good bit of welding to build up the areas around the middle but it can be done
I want to do a 4 bbl TB
I thought about making an adapter when I go to the dual plane intake I will probably go that route if it makes more power
@@thomasbeyer because the manifold only needs to move air, I thought about a single plane, maybe like an old Torker 2 and drill the heads for the La bolt pattern and and install the injectors in the runners.
Iv thought about modifying a tunnel ram
How much would you charge to port a throttle body?
I do it a lot different now I use my milling machine much better quality. Probably 120+shipping
@@thomasbeyer how much to port a tb and keg with shipping? I’d do it this way like in the vid but if you’re milling them out I may be interested. Looking for parts to complete a reman small block 5.9 to replace the 3.9 I have now. Swapping the 42re to 46re reman as well so i know I’ll have to do a bit of wiring and swap ecu as well. Anyways, im sure you have a market
@@myvanurfix how much porting like gasket match and a blend with slight runner shortening? If that's it I'll come up with some numbers.
All that goofing around and you didn't thin the throttle shaft... Or cut one side all the way off. What you did has very little effect....
No improvement unless computer corresponds
Idk if that's entirely true because of it pulling manifold vacuum in the higher rpms it causes it to run below the 100kpa load cells so if it wasn't pulling vacuum it would be running in cells that are already giving more fuel so I guess it does self correspond I will explain in detail in a later video