I love this magnum testing! I installed a junkyard 360 with an air gap intake, a 650 VS Holley and long tube headers in the truck I am building with my son. It's nice to see a representation of that on the Dyno! Thanks so much!
@@Mynextproject_74 Edelbrock never made an intake for magnum heads. Only intake I know of is Mopar M1 and it’s ridiculous expensive. I’ve been down this road before
@@canabox7112 Edelbrock and Speedmaster both make intakes thst fit both LA and Magnum. I have the Speedmaster. I got no reason to bullshit you about it.
Really neat to “see” that improvement in the carbs fuel curve just with the long tubes. Empirically you always hope for better efficiency with long tube headers, very comforting to witness with actual data. Thank you Richard!
My 360 Magnum build : comp 20-746-9 cam and Hughs springs 25 thou steel carbon fiber head gaskets Cheap ebay air gap dual plane manifold Thermoquad carb from a 440 with spread bore adaptor Shorty headers due to space restrictions This is a very snappy 360 and runs flawless 😁 Thank you very much Richard for your knowledge and inspiration 👍
I do hope you're also able to swap the camshaft/mildly ported heads and then repeat the test....as I suspect the difference will become substantial once you get a bit of overlap and the scavenging effect of the headers is able to kick in. Great content, love your channel. Especially appreciate all the unique (by comparison) engines you dyno. Love it.
One thing that the direct swap short tube header guys should note- to make the headers hook directly to the factory exhaust with no modification means they have a collector the same size as the the intended factory application. Most short tube headers on the market have the small collector.
@@markwatkinshield2914 yep, if I had the extra cash i'd love to buy a cheap set and send them to richard to run and see how they perform. Maybe someone will.
There was an article back in the 90’s about the coveted 340 exhaust manifolds and the Magnum manifolds. The magazine found the right 340 manifold the look like an iron 3 into 1 header and the left 92-93 large opening Magnum made the most power. The left Magnum manifold beat out the 340 Upswept manifold. The magazine stated they believe it was the pinch off where the manifold had to clear the steering box in the A body cars.
Thanks Richard for this test! I have some old 92/93 manifolds laying around somewhere. I was big into Magnum motors when they came out. I probably had the 1st modded Kegger in the world (done in 1994ish). I was able to run a pretty strong motor using OBD1 electronics. Good times!
Might be fun and informative to cc the stock manifolds just to have those numbers for math... also reminded me of why I prefer EFI. Start in PE mode at 13.4 around 2600 and end at 12.5 at 6500 with a smooth steady A/F curve. And whatever timing advance you want at any load/RPM. Heads and cam and Holley EFI in a future visit to this engine please! 😎
It’s actually pretty cool the manifolds and headers make this much this much difference even in a stock engine. That cam is 196/199 .410 or so. Tiny. My 360 magnum makes 279/353 to the wheels with the same intake and a Hughes 208/214 .512/.520 cam and Tri-Y headers in my Ramcharger. That’s with 35” tires! These engines love a little bit of cam.
Hey Richard. If you are going to do a video on carb spacers. Can you include on the test. Where you stack up carb spacers. Like pancakes. 1 inch ,2 inch ,3 inch, and 4 inch spacers. Both 4 hole spacers and open spacers. I'm curious about the power curve band if is tunable. By using spacers. Just a crazy idea.
When I ran the 92 manifolds on my 94 5.9 I found the v6 exhaust crossover was the larger size I needed for those larger manifolds . Just wanted to give everyone heads up .
This is great test, I love really going into the Why and not just the result. If you want this much horsepower put this head this intake and this cam in it just do as I say and you’ll get this number…..but Why does it work??? Thanks Richard
Direct Connection , Speed Secrets , publication suggested the magnum manifolds comparable to 340 manifolds , ( we used to call the 340 manifolds - factory headers )
I don’t know why so many insist on a carb when you can use excellent easily tunable Mopar OBDII factory fuel injection on a Magnum from the junkyard for less than the carb setup will cost you.
Because a Carb is more durable and a mechanical fuel pump hardly ever goes out and even if it does it's right in the front of the engine! But go ahead and have fun with all that electronic crap! It is real awsome when your stranded on the side of the road because of a fuel pump or sensor lol
@@ericgrueser7532 okay geezer and you can have fun when you run out of gas and have to prime the system while I have to cycle my key 4 times and it fires right back up. Though I will say I've never had an electric choke work right
I remember seeing a dino comparison of long tube headers decades ago, an inch and a half on a 351 Windsor made the most torque and horsepower up to the 300 horsepower level. If you had a motor with the heads cam Etc to go above that then bigger tubes we're better. It would be interesting to see if small tube headers boosted the low and mid-range torque for Street drivability and mileage more than the big tube headers
There is one particular set from a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck that is supposed to be pretty good, but I can't remember because it's been so long since I read about it.
Not sure if this is the right place to ask this but could you test and see if a 366 tall deck bbc would be a good candidate for a turbo? There supposed to have stupid thick cylinder walls because the blocks are the same as the 427 tall decks just with a smaller bore, they have less then 8 to 1 compression and a they have super beefy 4 ring pistons, they just seem like the perfect junkyard candidate to turbo and people practically pay you to get rid of them because they have such a bad rap in the hotrod scene. Also love your videos!
Back in the 90's a friend of mine pulled what he thought was a 454 out of an old motorhome from a guy who just wanted to get rid of it since it was leaking through the roof and rotting the floors, it was complete and running with less than 50K miles along with the TH-400 transmission, he put it in his square body pickup as it was with no performance (or any) mods whatsoever, it was no race truck but was a blast to drive on the street, it ran smooth pulled hard and would roast the tires with ease, he never knew (neither did I) that a 366 existed until he looked up the block casting number after he had it for a while.
Hi Richard, long time, I was thinking about a test you can do about valve springs, on how much HP can you lose by over springing, and another how much valve stability can one gain by just adding shims and lighter retainers to the OEM springs, all with the same cam, it should be cheap and relatively fast to do with the right tools.
I know with older ford 5.0 that a dual spring head over single really helps with throttle response tighter springs make it easier for valvetrain to respond to reving up to a point
I own a Dakota and thought my only option was a shorty header, I had factory Gibson headers , on they rotted and went with jbl , can you tell me the longtime headers you used ? Would they fit is the issue……..I still have a keg style intake , spaced , with aem spacer … love this series , no one has magnum stuff as concise
I'd love to see this same test done with a set of '71 340 p-side center dump manifolds (3418623) on both sides and a pair of the pre-smog 70's center dump 'truck' manifolds (3830684), and a pair of the 80's-90's smog manifolds - I'd wager there isn't much difference compared to the late magnum manifolds
No one mentioned that this Mopar M1 intake is the only carb intake available for magnum heads and it’s ridiculous expensive. You can buy three performer rpm for a Chevy for the price of one of those
Richard can you do a test between the two manifolds on a turbo setup id be interested if the smaller outlet makes more velocity down at lower rpm and moves the power band
Hi Richard! You often talk about scavetching and exhaust extention. What about intake length before carb or throttlebody. Does that matter to? Keep on Dyno👍
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
A vortex plate with more length for better the mixture could be interesting to see.
I use to race a stock car class and you had to use stock exhaust manifolds , I used the old 340 manifolds but I had a dyno guy tell me to use the 70 340 on the right side and the 92 pre magnum on the left ? I did it over the winter and the car was faster but of course I made other improvements over the winter as well ? So I don't actually know if it made anymore power ?? It wouldn't be interesting to actually see dyno results ?
@@jimsmirh2406 If memory serves the passenger side is the same as the later truck one but the drivers side is a small opening but in a different location. Pretty sure it is about 3" farther forward than a truck. All years from 93-98
This is stk V8 dodge magnum with carb flows on 4barrel /added ex header manifold But are just has is modded for AF /ECU mapping to direct users are only in ECU channels
I'd also like to see the same test from 1500 rpm up to 5000 rpm, IOW in the 'normal' range. Specifically, I'd like to know what the engine makes at 2500 rpm, with the three different exhaust systems. IOW, do headers...or even the bigger magnum manifolds...really free up that much more hp/tq when cruising on the highway? That's info I'd actually pay for. I don't really care about hp/tq above 4500 rpm - my engine is never there, so having more power up high is really irrelevant for me, and I'd wager most everyone else planning a build on a daily driver.
@@richardholdener1727...'most' everyone :-] . No I mean...for the typical truck engine, like the mag 360 in my 02 Dakota, I'd just love to see a dyno test aimed at the improvements (if any) in the lower rpms, and if the bigger manifolds or headers would be worth the effort under 4500 rpm. Above 4500 rpm sure, there a little bit to be gained, but for a truck application...what's really to be gained. I'm bolting on either a set of the pre-smog center dump 360 manifolds or a set of the 71 p-side 340 center dump manifolds, and I'd love to see the differences between them. Cool vids btw - keep up the good work!
Here’s my question.. it’s my understanding that a points style distributor has a much smoother advance than an msd style ignition. I could be totally wrong here but with your rpm range would a points style distributor help you with your air/fuel ratio?
When i swapped my manifolds with shorty headers i was thinking just looking at them well damn. Seems like a waste unless you get long tubes. I got a 99
This means a lot to thoughs who have carbs. But nothing to thoughs who have fuel injection. I think next time you need to do a side by side of the 5.2L and the 5.9L fuel injection when it comes to compression ratios.
@@richardholdener1727 true to a point. Carburators might have been the go to back then for century's but with fuel injection it's a superior alternative and a efficient power gain vs the carburetor on any 5.2L and 5.9L. on any parts added aftermarket wise you will see a difference in power. I know your explaining muffler but I'm explain fuel delivery.
With an A/F curve like you had with the small manifolds - would it have been worthwhile to try going down a jet size or two on the primaries (to lean out at lower RPMs), but stay the same or even go up a size on the secondaries? Guess that depends on whether the secondaries are vacuum operated or mechanical, and when they start to open?
Do you fully understand that the difference between a good engine and a great engine is the great engine did 10 little things that added 5-6 hp. Added a little better throttle response, made it accelerate a little faster.. it's not magic, it's applied science bro. Not dogging you, but I read your response and am reminded of countless web forum posts where guys are asking why their engine only does 350 hp and their buddies basically identical engine does 380-390 hp.. the buddy paid attention to all the little 4-5 hp gains and applied them to his build. A solid 4 hp from idle to redline is an awesome gain when you consider what it cost to do.
@@b.c4066 I get your applied science "bro" and thanks for the lesson. My point being that for all the hassles that come with headers, on this particular application they are NOT WORTH 4-5 HP BRO
Wouldn't you mess with the hsabs and/or the emulsifier jetting to level that out? Adding the LTs was probably less work on a dyno engine though it may be a push in a car lol.
Have you or has anyone tested stock exhaust manifolds from the late '60s to the '90s and compared the difference excluding headers for we all know the makes a difference on the same engine.
I would be interested to see if the shorty or mid length headers would affect the a/f the same way the long tubes did. My thought is because headers separate and therefore lengthen the port, as opposed to both stock manifolds just having the exhaust pulses crash into one another in the log section. I am just curious if the shorter headers would be more like the long tubes since the pulse flows better at to the collector.
@@douganderson7002 if you want to increase power on modern cars I agree, but older cast iron manifolds were absolute sh** and they do help on older v8 from the 80’s and prior to that. The shorties on my 86 camaro with tpi were good for 12hp at the wheels on the dyno back in 1990. So, not exactly garbage. If I recall properly it was a 7-8% increase at the wheels. My question wasn’t “ hey, are shorty headers good?” It was a correlation about separating the exhaust pulses for tuning purposes.
Would a 600cfm edlebrock be ok for a stock application 318 magnum with only an edlebrock intake manifold and shorty headers? Streetability is what I mean.
On a Ford 250 six with iron single oulet 2 inch header, verses a big long tube 2.125, I got the same 18% improvement in power Wheels magazine got in 1978 on there 121 hp engine. A 13% improvement in fuel consumption. A dyno test showing a 3 to 4 % improvement is Not Much. It is Great Info, Though. Sb Mopar Magnum Appreciation, 100%!
@@richardholdener1727 no... it's NOT stock for a Magnum 5.2 or 5.9. As evidence, go watch your previous video here ==>> th-cam.com/video/OOM0P_p-RYI/w-d-xo.html
I see the problem....you didnt turn turn the pistons.. I would like to see the point where the larger stock manifolds peter out. Do the cam and intake swap and then compare them with the headers.
I love this magnum testing! I installed a junkyard 360 with an air gap intake, a 650 VS Holley and long tube headers in the truck I am building with my son. It's nice to see a representation of that on the Dyno! Thanks so much!
Not with magnum heads you didn’t
@@canabox7112 yup I did!
@@Mynextproject_74 Edelbrock never made an intake for magnum heads. Only intake I know of is Mopar M1 and it’s ridiculous expensive. I’ve been down this road before
@@canabox7112 Edelbrock and Speedmaster both make intakes thst fit both LA and Magnum. I have the Speedmaster. I got no reason to bullshit you about it.
@@Mynextproject_74 well I’m glad to hear that because when I checked that wasn’t the case
thats the best reason for the benefits of long tubes i've ever seen demonstrated.thanks.
This has to be one of the most interesting series you have ever done! Loving the step by step videos showing the changes! Thanks Bruce from NZ
The junkyard 360 and crate engine 360 gave identical power curves... the crate 360 also came in a 380 HP version with 244/244 durations cam...
Really neat to “see” that improvement in the carbs fuel curve just with the long tubes. Empirically you always hope for better efficiency with long tube headers, very comforting to witness with actual data. Thank you Richard!
My 360 Magnum build :
comp 20-746-9 cam and Hughs springs
25 thou steel carbon fiber head gaskets
Cheap ebay air gap dual plane manifold
Thermoquad carb from a 440 with spread bore adaptor
Shorty headers due to space restrictions
This is a very snappy 360 and runs flawless 😁
Thank you very much Richard for your knowledge and inspiration 👍
I do hope you're also able to swap the camshaft/mildly ported heads and then repeat the test....as I suspect the difference will become substantial once you get a bit of overlap and the scavenging effect of the headers is able to kick in.
Great content, love your channel. Especially appreciate all the unique (by comparison) engines you dyno. Love it.
It also proves long tube headers are a good choice to increase MPGs in low rpm street driving.
I'm happy about this Mopar! I have a 99 dodge van that I was thinking about putting a little boost on. Can't wait till you get to the turbo!
Richard, still waiting for you to swap the pistons, notches to the rear!
One thing that the direct swap short tube header guys should note- to make the headers hook directly to the factory exhaust with no modification means they have a collector the same size as the the intended factory application. Most short tube headers on the market have the small collector.
Right, which would seem to make them not worth the effort?
@@markwatkinshield2914 yep, if I had the extra cash i'd love to buy a cheap set and send them to richard to run and see how they perform. Maybe someone will.
Nice of you to show everyone else what us d150 guys have know for almost the last 3 decades. And drive up the price of already hard to find manifolds.
yup....my 93 d150s manifolds are looking like gold right now.
You are a engine guru like few others. Thanks for the knowledge. Only wish I was there helping.
It would be cool to see a 350 vs 351 vs 360. Similar heads, cam, intake and carb
He has been saying he is going to do a later model 351 and put the explorer GT40 heads on it. Hopefully he'll get to it soon.
There was an article back in the 90’s about the coveted 340 exhaust manifolds and the Magnum manifolds. The magazine found the right 340 manifold the look like an iron 3 into 1 header and the left 92-93 large opening Magnum made the most power. The left Magnum manifold beat out the 340 Upswept manifold. The magazine stated they believe it was the pinch off where the manifold had to clear the steering box in the A body cars.
The manifolds being so close to the headers says a lot about the engineers at Chrysler. Love the test.
Nice to see you are showing 2500 because the vast majority of us with OD are in that range or less cruising miles.
Long tubes and a Quick Fuel Brawler REALLY woke my 360 up and it's a blast now! Granted mine is an LA engine so I'm not too sure on the difference.
Thanks Richard for this test! I have some old 92/93 manifolds laying around somewhere. I was big into Magnum motors when they came out. I probably had the 1st modded Kegger in the world (done in 1994ish). I was able to run a pretty strong motor using OBD1 electronics. Good times!
Want to sell them?
@@circaseventies maybe! Let me find them
Do a little light porting and gasket matching and cam swap it I bet thr difference would be huge
Might be fun and informative to cc the stock manifolds just to have those numbers for math... also reminded me of why I prefer EFI. Start in PE mode at 13.4 around 2600 and end at 12.5 at 6500 with a smooth steady A/F curve. And whatever timing advance you want at any load/RPM. Heads and cam and Holley EFI in a future visit to this engine please! 😎
This is my exact version of the Magnum. These videos are extremely useful and appreciated 😎😎
Loving these mopar magnum videos man! Keep them coming and thank you!!!
Good stuff! I always wanted to see the difference in the magnum stock manifolds and headers (which are way better than the older style manifolds!).
It’s actually pretty cool the manifolds and headers make this much this much difference even in a stock engine. That cam is 196/199 .410 or so. Tiny. My 360 magnum makes 279/353 to the wheels with the same intake and a Hughes 208/214 .512/.520 cam and Tri-Y headers in my Ramcharger. That’s with 35” tires! These engines love a little bit of cam.
I finally got to watch you live last night. I enjoyed it so much I forget to ask my question 🤐.
Thank you for all you do for our sport.
THNX FOR WATCHING
Hey Richard. If you are going to do a video on carb spacers. Can you include on the test. Where you stack up carb spacers. Like pancakes. 1 inch ,2 inch ,3 inch, and 4 inch spacers. Both 4 hole spacers and open spacers. I'm curious about the power curve band if is tunable. By using spacers. Just a crazy idea.
Can you please do a RV, middle of page and bottom of the page cam upgrade on this magnum 360? Including what it took to install it all.
Did you ever modify your RV ?
When I ran the 92 manifolds on my 94 5.9 I found the v6 exhaust crossover was the larger size I needed for those larger manifolds . Just wanted to give everyone heads up .
Great info as always! Keep it going, really enjoying what you're doing with the magnum
The Brawler played personal favorites with his amigo Nacho Long Tube.
A contingency tag that said *NACHO LONG TUBE* would be dope
It would be interesting to compare the difference with the smaller pipe associated with the smaller manifold outlet.
This is great test, I love really going into the Why and not just the result.
If you want this much horsepower put this head this intake and this cam in it just do as I say and you’ll get this number…..but Why does it work???
Thanks Richard
Direct Connection , Speed Secrets , publication suggested the magnum manifolds comparable to 340 manifolds ,
( we used to call the 340 manifolds - factory headers )
I don’t know why so many insist on a carb when you can use excellent easily tunable Mopar OBDII factory fuel injection on a Magnum from the junkyard for less than the carb setup will cost you.
How much power will the stock FI handle?
The stock system can’t just be swapped in unless you swap everything it’s attached to. And it makes more power with a carb and carb intake.
Because a Carb is more durable and a mechanical fuel pump hardly ever goes out and even if it does it's right in the front of the engine! But go ahead and have fun with all that electronic crap! It is real awsome when your stranded on the side of the road because of a fuel pump or sensor lol
Because people that have dyno have carbs laying around all over the place
@@ericgrueser7532 okay geezer and you can have fun when you run out of gas and have to prime the system while I have to cycle my key 4 times and it fires right back up. Though I will say I've never had an electric choke work right
Direct reflection of exhaust scavenging on intake ram! A/R leveled out because of exhaust impulses. Cast iron reflects them.
IT'S NOT THE MATERIAL-ITS THE LENGTH
I remember seeing a dino comparison of long tube headers decades ago, an inch and a half on a 351 Windsor made the most torque and horsepower up to the 300 horsepower level. If you had a motor with the heads cam Etc to go above that then bigger tubes we're better. It would be interesting to see if small tube headers boosted the low and mid-range torque for Street drivability and mileage more than the big tube headers
Really interesting. I would have guessed the headers would lean the mixture out substantially and that is not what happened.
Now I'm curious about GM ram horns off a vette vs standard sbc manifold say from a truck or firebird
Brezinski recomends 1996 LT4 manifolds for those in stock manifold racing classes.
There is one particular set from a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck that is supposed to be pretty good, but I can't remember because it's been so long since I read about it.
@@danr9584 I think I remember reading something about the bigger class truck manifolds as well.
yeah i would have lost money on that one. can't believe long tube headers fixed the fuel air ratio THAT well!
I run shorty headers with true duals and a 40 series Flowmaster on my 98 Dakota
Not sure if this is the right place to ask this but could you test and see if a 366 tall deck bbc would be a good candidate for a turbo? There supposed to have stupid thick cylinder walls because the blocks are the same as the 427 tall decks just with a smaller bore, they have less then 8 to 1 compression and a they have super beefy 4 ring pistons, they just seem like the perfect junkyard candidate to turbo and people practically pay you to get rid of them because they have such a bad rap in the hotrod scene. Also love your videos!
Back in the 90's a friend of mine pulled what he thought was a 454 out of an old motorhome from a guy who just wanted to get rid of it since it was leaking through the roof and rotting the floors, it was complete and running with less than 50K miles along with the TH-400 transmission, he put it in his square body pickup as it was with no performance (or any) mods whatsoever, it was no race truck but was a blast to drive on the street, it ran smooth pulled hard and would roast the tires with ease, he never knew (neither did I) that a 366 existed until he looked up the block casting number after he had it for a while.
HAVEN'T EVER SEEN ONE OF THOSE IN A YARD
The only way to flatten the curve for the stock headers then would be a good Efi system. BTW, that Magnum was missing the " WHAAAA!" factor
I've got a stock TBI 350 that I just added shorty headers 2 and I gained more power than that, it was noticeable, and also in the MPG
How much more power did you make at what rpm with the shorty's compared to manifolds?
DO YOU HAVE ACTUAL RESULTS-OR IT JUST FELT LIKE MORE THAN THE DATA?
@@richardholdener1727 that's why I asked ten at the crank is thirty at the cheeks.
Hi Richard, long time, I was thinking about a test you can do about valve springs, on how much HP can you lose by over springing, and another how much valve stability can one gain by just adding shims and lighter retainers to the OEM springs, all with the same cam, it should be cheap and relatively fast to do with the right tools.
ALREADY DID THAT
I know with older ford 5.0 that a dual spring head over single really helps with throttle response tighter springs make it easier for valvetrain to respond to reving up to a point
I still would love to see some tests on 94-01 magnums with the stock intake and then a few upgrades 🤞🏻🤞🏻👍🏻👍🏻
coming
Yesssss please 😎
I own a Dakota and thought my only option was a shorty header, I had factory Gibson headers , on they rotted and went with jbl , can you tell me the longtime headers you used ? Would they fit is the issue……..I still have a keg style intake , spaced , with aem spacer … love this series , no one has magnum stuff as concise
Love the testing thanks for your time!
I'd love to see this same test done with a set of '71 340 p-side center dump manifolds (3418623) on both sides and a pair of the pre-smog 70's center dump 'truck' manifolds (3830684), and a pair of the 80's-90's smog manifolds - I'd wager there isn't much difference compared to the late magnum manifolds
So are you telling us that headers are one step in making carb tuning possibly easier or better? Helping to make the fuel curve smoother?
High level Machine science
wizard
Thank you
We await your next discovery
Respect…
🇨🇦 let’s roll bro’s 😁
🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸🇨🇦🇺🇸
No one mentioned that this Mopar M1 intake is the only carb intake available for magnum heads and it’s ridiculous expensive. You can buy three performer rpm for a Chevy for the price of one of those
Or with 30 to 45 minutes of work you can run la manifolds on the magnum.
@@troubleracing6993 What is necessary to do this? I am curious and do not know anything about magnums.
@@evanc6110 Drill and tap the heads for the la intake bolt angle.
@@troubleracing6993 Oh ok I wasn't sure if anything else had to be done. Interesting.
@@evanc6110 Nope, everything else is same.
check out the blow-b on the smaller manifolds, it wasn't there on the other two manifolds.
NOT BLOW BY-OIL LEAK FROM VALVE COVER
Richard can you do a test between the two manifolds on a turbo setup id be interested if the smaller outlet makes more velocity down at lower rpm and moves the power band
IT WONT DO THAT
did hear a fluctuate? at 6.00 lol nice work
did hear a fluctuate?
Hi Richard! You often talk about scavetching and exhaust extention. What about intake length before carb or throttlebody. Does that matter to? Keep on Dyno👍
A vortex plate with more length for better the mixture could be interesting to see.
Hi Hondatech5000. I where thinking about the length between "airfilter" and the thottlebody (scavetching wise).
RUNNER LENGTH IS NOT BEFORE THE THROTTLE BODY-ONLY AFTER PLENUM
AIR INTAKE LENGTH AND PLENUM VOLUME CHANGES HELMHOLTZ RESONANCE-DIFFERENT THAN REFLECTED WAVE OR INERTIAL RAM
@@richardholdener1727 Thnx 👍! Your are like a engine encyclopedia
Another great and informative video
I use to race a stock car class and you had to use stock exhaust manifolds , I used the old 340 manifolds but I had a dyno guy tell me to use the 70 340 on the right side and the 92 pre magnum on the left ? I did it over the winter and the car was faster but of course I made other improvements over the winter as well ? So I don't actually know if it made anymore power ?? It wouldn't be interesting to actually see dyno results ?
Right on
There is actually a third set. The ones on the Grand Cherokee are different also.
What year Grand Cherokee?
@@jimsmirh2406 If memory serves the passenger side is the same as the later truck one but the drivers side is a small opening but in a different location. Pretty sure it is about 3" farther forward than a truck. All years from 93-98
It’s for packaging, so they are likely inferior. The Grand Cherokee always had less space under the hood.
This is stk V8 dodge magnum with carb flows on 4barrel /added ex header manifold
But are just has is modded for AF /ECU mapping to direct users are only in ECU channels
I'd also like to see the same test from 1500 rpm up to 5000 rpm, IOW in the 'normal' range. Specifically, I'd like to know what the engine makes at 2500 rpm, with the three different exhaust systems. IOW, do headers...or even the bigger magnum manifolds...really free up that much more hp/tq when cruising on the highway? That's info I'd actually pay for. I don't really care about hp/tq above 4500 rpm - my engine is never there, so having more power up high is really irrelevant for me, and I'd wager most everyone else planning a build on a daily driver.
EVERYONE? YOU ARE NEVER AT WOT AT 1500 RPM AND LONG TUBE HEADERS ADD TORQUE THERE (BUT THE BETTER STOCK MANIFOLDS WOULD GAIN LITTLE)
@@richardholdener1727...'most' everyone :-] . No I mean...for the typical truck engine, like the mag 360 in my 02 Dakota, I'd just love to see a dyno test aimed at the improvements (if any) in the lower rpms, and if the bigger manifolds or headers would be worth the effort under 4500 rpm. Above 4500 rpm sure, there a little bit to be gained, but for a truck application...what's really to be gained. I'm bolting on either a set of the pre-smog center dump 360 manifolds or a set of the 71 p-side 340 center dump manifolds, and I'd love to see the differences between them. Cool vids btw - keep up the good work!
the manifolds showed small gains from 3000-5000 rpm
Could you show the gain loss in drag race set up 1/8 and 1/4 mile.
OF 5 HP?
Here’s my question.. it’s my understanding that a points style distributor has a much smoother advance than an msd style ignition. I could be totally wrong here but with your rpm range would a points style distributor help you with your air/fuel ratio?
that is not accurate
Turbo!
That!
Thing!
The same test with efi would be interesting.
same results
When i swapped my manifolds with shorty headers i was thinking just looking at them well damn. Seems like a waste unless you get long tubes. I got a 99
This means a lot to thoughs who have carbs. But nothing to thoughs who have fuel injection. I think next time you need to do a side by side of the 5.2L and the 5.9L fuel injection when it comes to compression ratios.
IT MEANS THE SAME TO BOTH EFI AND CARB
@@richardholdener1727 true to a point. Carburators might have been the go to back then for century's but with fuel injection it's a superior alternative and a efficient power gain vs the carburetor on any 5.2L and 5.9L. on any parts added aftermarket wise you will see a difference in power. I know your explaining muffler but I'm explain fuel delivery.
With an A/F curve like you had with the small manifolds - would it have been worthwhile to try going down a jet size or two on the primaries (to lean out at lower RPMs), but stay the same or even go up a size on the secondaries? Guess that depends on whether the secondaries are vacuum operated or mechanical, and when they start to open?
PRIMARY AND SECONDARY JETTING CHANGES THE AF CURVE EVERYWHERE
If only someone made a QUALITY longtube for a 2001-2003 Dakota 5.9 !!!
For that small gain I would keep the cast iron manifolds.
Do you fully understand that the difference between a good engine and a great engine is the great engine did 10 little things that added 5-6 hp. Added a little better throttle response, made it accelerate a little faster.. it's not magic, it's applied science bro. Not dogging you, but I read your response and am reminded of countless web forum posts where guys are asking why their engine only does 350 hp and their buddies basically identical engine does 380-390 hp.. the buddy paid attention to all the little 4-5 hp gains and applied them to his build. A solid 4 hp from idle to redline is an awesome gain when you consider what it cost to do.
@@b.c4066 I get your applied science "bro" and thanks for the lesson. My point being that for all the hassles that come with headers, on this particular application they are NOT WORTH 4-5 HP BRO
Richard let me know what you are going to do with those early manifolds I sent you. Will those be used for the turbo testing?
DO YOU WANT THEM BACK?
@@richardholdener1727 expensive trip just hang on to them
Do you still have, can i buy them?,
This stock big and small manifolds remind me of 80,s chevy tpi stock manifolds on 350 tpi is larger manifold then 305 tpi smaller opening.
Wouldn't you mess with the hsabs and/or the emulsifier jetting to level that out?
Adding the LTs was probably less work on a dyno engine though it may be a push in a car lol.
Hey, did you ever get around to doing a big bang 3.8l V6 like you was talking about ages ago ?
NOT YET
I would love a 3.8L build, as HP Tuners skipped all but the Jeep version CPU in the latest roll-out.
Have you or has anyone tested stock exhaust manifolds from the late '60s to the '90s and compared the difference excluding headers for we all know the makes a difference on the same engine.
I would jet it down to 70 front and 74 rear and to 34 deg to start
IT DOESN'T LIKE 34 DEGREES
Could one also draw the conclusion here that manifolds and headers have different carb air bleed/emulsion requirements?
SURE
Big Bang the magnum
I got a 5.9 360 what size exhaust manifold bolts do I use to put on some shorty headers
98 grand cherokee with the 5.2 magnum,, which exhaust manifold was most likely on it? How would i find out without having to remove from engine?
its only 5 hp, you have the small ones
I would be interested to see if the shorty or mid length headers would affect the a/f the same way the long tubes did.
My thought is because headers separate and therefore lengthen the port, as opposed to both stock manifolds just having the exhaust pulses crash into one another in the log section. I am just curious if the shorter headers would be more like the long tubes since the pulse flows better at to the collector.
@@douganderson7002 if you want to increase power on modern cars I agree, but older cast iron manifolds were absolute sh** and they do help on older v8 from the 80’s and prior to that.
The shorties on my 86 camaro with tpi were good for 12hp at the wheels on the dyno back in 1990. So, not exactly garbage. If I recall properly it was a 7-8% increase at the wheels.
My question wasn’t “ hey, are shorty headers good?” It was a correlation about separating the exhaust pulses for tuning purposes.
If you build it they will come...kinda get to see it all
@Richard Holdener .. Richard do you have the stock lift figures on the Magnum 360? How bad is it? .430 or less?
YES NEAR THERE
2001 mopar performance catalog page 95 shows the 300hp crate motor cam specs are 250/264 adv dur, 37 o-lap, 110 centerline, .385/.401 lift. The 380hp crate motor is 288/292 adv dur, 74 o-lap, 108 centerline, .501/.513 lift
Still my favorite Small block why don’t this have the aftermarket it deserves tho
This would be nice data to see with every carbureted combo.
Would a 600cfm edlebrock be ok for a stock application 318 magnum with only an edlebrock intake manifold and shorty headers? Streetability is what I mean.
yes
"Simply adding magnum valve covers does not a Magnum make..."
Bill Shakespeare.
I put the big manifolds on my 99 RT in 2000 with the front pipe and shut the hell up about it!!
Would tri-y headers have the same effect on the fuel as the long tubes?
I HAVE NOT TESTED THAT
There's a lot to be said here about driveability.
I would love to see a dyno test of a L05 5.7 TBI engine, stock heads with a cam upgrade.
On a Ford 250 six with iron single oulet 2 inch header, verses a big long tube 2.125, I got the same 18% improvement in power Wheels magazine got in 1978 on there 121 hp engine. A 13% improvement in fuel consumption. A dyno test showing a 3 to 4 % improvement is Not Much. It is Great Info, Though. Sb Mopar Magnum Appreciation, 100%!
Is this the same case with jeep 5.9 manifolds? Or are they different?
Ok, EFI is the ting! 🙂
What is the water neck/ t- stat housing that you're using here?
STOCK?
@@richardholdener1727 no... it's NOT stock for a Magnum 5.2 or 5.9. As evidence, go watch your previous video here ==>> th-cam.com/video/OOM0P_p-RYI/w-d-xo.html
sweet
Headers ALWAYS work.
I see the problem....you didnt turn turn the pistons..
I would like to see the point where the larger stock manifolds peter out. Do the cam and intake swap and then compare them with the headers.
Everyone needs a dyno or at least access to videos of this kind of testing.
cool
Aren't 1 7/8" primary headers way too big for a mild 360? How about comparing them with a 1 5/8"