I’ve used the Sika and it does look good. After a month it appears to be solid. Major problem I found is one pack in the two pack tubs was rock solid despite it still being sealed. Wickes were happy to refund 50 % which is fair and they said it’s a common problem. I suspect it’s an age thing so do check the date if there is one on the tub. Not good though
I used this pointing system on a paved drive a few years ago. However, it is quite an expensive method and in my opinion does not have the longevity of sand and cement. I found on my drive that the resin joints started popping after a couple of years. So it was back to raking out and the traditional method of pointing with sand and cement. Your path by the way looks very good.
same story here, it's a short term quick fix and in my experience total a waste of time. I was shattered raking it out and washing it all away. It's really just building sand, resin ? No. I used 15 tubs of this identical product. It doesn't maintian the colour and also doesn't harden at all. It is garbage. Clever marketing to make you think that you can short cut using mortar but I'm back to square 1. I ought to have known after 25 years in the building game.
I understand your concerns about ghosting, but as far as I know I slight douching with a weak acid solution will solve that. Do not forget that in olden times they had to make do with basic stuff -- and that still works. And no-one knows what all the modern add-ons will do in a century or two, so there we are...
Really useful advice and great video thanks. Looking to point a couple of areas this week using the resin material and great to see the 5 years later result 👍
Resin jointing compounds are very good. Another top product is GftK vdw 815. We used this on our granite paving 4 years ago and it still looks like the day it was laid even after a yearly jet wash 🧽.
The good thing about Flowpoint is that it sets very quickly, around 15 mins, the bad thing about Flowpoint is that it sets very quickly, around 15 mins. You have to be quick with the cleanup before it goes hard. I have tried the resin method as well and wasn’t happy with that either. I have now gone back to using sand and cement. I am repointing a 6 year old patio and paths so the gaps between the slabs may not suit the resin method. I await your call Tim, to come and show me how it should be done. 😂😂😂
Hi. Great looking path. Can you please confirm, when you are laying the setts are you bedding them on sharp sand and cement or normal soft sand and cement? Thanks for your help.
In case anyone is worrying with these products, the thin and shiny layer of resin that stays on the surface of the stone does wear off with time or can be helped along with a stone appropriate cleaner and a bit of scrubbing
Hi, could you just confirm what sq meterage you covered and how much you used for this please? Ive got 30sqm to do with much smaller spacing so trying to figure out amounts. Thanks :D
What sand and cement mix did you lay on? I was going to use a brush in resin product. However, the ones I looked at said I needed to have laid on a weakish (6:1) base. Anything stronger and the resin system will fail prematurely.
I’ve used sand and cement recently (and very carefully) with what looked like a giant icing funnel where the gaps were somewhat larger between slabs installed by the previous owner of our abode. But must say, having tried the Flowpoint on block paving on a driveway with some good results importantly, when installed onto damp brickwork I can definitely recommend it. The key is to dampen the gaps in whatever your choice of pathway maybe as not doing so seems to result in the Flowpoint simply becoming grains of grit if not used quickly….. nice Job Tim 😎👍
Recommend not even bothering to wet the slabs at first. It just makes the job more messy. Apply dry , sweep neatly into the gaps, and then wet afterwards.
I’ve used this Sika product too between porcelain flags but it has ended up looking shabby. I’m not sure what’s happened but it has turned white in some patchy areas almost. Any idea?
Hi Tim, can this type of jointing compound be used on flags that are dry laid on a sand bed. I’ve removed some old pointing and ready to repoint but unsure which way to go. Thanks Adam
Have you got any lingering smell from the grout as I have just used this in the last week and I think I can still smell it? Could be nasal memory. One thing I would say is the bigger the gap (within reason) the better, I did it with the minimum of 5mm and it was a lot more difficult to pack in. I also used it on dry concrete slabs halfway through and found it a little easier but that is against the manufacturers recommendation, the slabs had been dampened prior and I think the warning is more for natural materials.
Only for a day or two but soon goes. Yes, its not great at tiny joints as unlike kiln dried sand it doesn't fall in well. Best things would be to grind down a tuck trowel to the thickness of the joint and run it in.
Easier to concrete stencil it, n throw colour then wash off.. done in Australia 20 years ago but gives u this look. Exposed agg is the new go to but stencil was a big thing back then
Easier to leave it as dirt. Easier to leave it as grass. Easier to dump gravel on it. Easier to spray paint it brown. Not everybody wants to sacrifice quality to do it the easy way. That’s how we end up with entire neighborhoods of vinyl-sided, plastic shuttered McMansions.
Don’t buy this expensive corner cutting load of shite. After a year it starts coming out the joints. I’m in the process now of doing mine again the proper way because I fell into the trap.
This is just what I needed as tackling my patio this week. Some great tips. Thank you.
That back yard looks so so awesome. You transformed it into a very amazing place to unwind and relax
I’ve used the Sika and it does look good. After a month it appears to be solid. Major problem I found is one pack in the two pack tubs was rock solid despite it still being sealed. Wickes were happy to refund 50 % which is fair and they said it’s a common problem. I suspect it’s an age thing so do check the date if there is one on the tub.
Not good though
I used this pointing system on a paved drive a few years ago. However, it is quite an expensive method and in my opinion does not have the longevity of sand and cement. I found on my drive that the resin joints started popping after a couple of years. So it was back to raking out and the traditional method of pointing with sand and cement. Your path by the way looks very good.
same story here, it's a short term quick fix and in my experience total a waste of time. I was shattered raking it out and washing it all away. It's really just building sand, resin ? No. I used 15 tubs of this identical product. It doesn't maintian the colour and also doesn't harden at all. It is garbage. Clever marketing to make you think that you can short cut using mortar but I'm back to square 1. I ought to have known after 25 years in the building game.
Your place is looking so good! Love the look of the paths and the workshop
I understand your concerns about ghosting, but as far as I know I slight douching with a weak acid solution will solve that. Do not forget that in olden times they had to make do with basic stuff -- and that still works. And no-one knows what all the modern add-ons will do in a century or two, so there we are...
Love it! Are the girls happy with how lush the lawn is looking?
This brush in pointing resin is expensive, but it saves so much time!
Excellent work. Like the color of the resin/mortar.
Really useful advice and great video thanks. Looking to point a couple of areas this week using the resin material and great to see the 5 years later result 👍
Resin jointing compounds are very good. Another top product is GftK vdw 815. We used this on our granite paving 4 years ago and it still looks like the day it was laid even after a yearly jet wash 🧽.
Gftk is good but cost a lot
@@omlet1231 you get what you pay for. Sika is cheap/nasty
Looks great! Cracking garden too 👌
Beautiful path….and that blue sky looked like you could of been in the Mediterranean….😂 from wet grey Suffolk In June 🥴🙋🏻♀️🇬🇧💕jane
It’s not always sunny in Somerset! 🤣
The good thing about Flowpoint is that it sets very quickly, around 15 mins, the bad thing about Flowpoint is that it sets very quickly, around 15 mins. You have to be quick with the cleanup before it goes hard.
I have tried the resin method as well and wasn’t happy with that either. I have now gone back to using sand and cement.
I am repointing a 6 year old patio and paths so the gaps between the slabs may not suit the resin method.
I await your call Tim, to come and show me how it should be done. 😂😂😂
Hi. Great looking path. Can you please confirm, when you are laying the setts are you bedding them on sharp sand and cement or normal soft sand and cement? Thanks for your help.
Great vid as usual. Out of interest what mix have u used with sand a cement in the past successfully for pointing? Cheers
So nice to see your son getting stuck in , my sons not really liie that but my daughter always wants to pitch in
Seems like a great product.
In case anyone is worrying with these products, the thin and shiny layer of resin that stays on the surface of the stone does wear off with time or can be helped along with a stone appropriate cleaner and a bit of scrubbing
Thanks for sharing the update of the patio. Keep up the great work! Was the grout resin you used 5 years ago also Sika?
Have used this stuff, it is definitely quick and easy but it doesn't hold up well to a jet wash, even when you're being careful.
That’s good stuff the way to go never seen that product before ,oh do you still have your camper van you did out
Did you do the older patio using easy joint? I’m going to do a patio myself soon and wanted your opinion on which one was better. Thanks
The patch look great. Would lime mortar be an alternative?
Hi, could you just confirm what sq meterage you covered and how much you used for this please? Ive got 30sqm to do with much smaller spacing so trying to figure out amounts. Thanks :D
Hi Tim, Inspired by your videos, I’m planning to install vintage manor setts in my garden. What size setts should I order from Stonemarket?
What sand and cement mix did you lay on? I was going to use a brush in resin product. However, the ones I looked at said I needed to have laid on a weakish (6:1) base. Anything stronger and the resin system will fail prematurely.
I’ve used sand and cement recently (and very carefully) with what looked like a giant icing funnel where the gaps were somewhat larger between slabs installed by the previous owner of our abode.
But must say, having tried the Flowpoint on block paving on a driveway with some good results importantly, when installed onto damp brickwork I can definitely recommend it. The key is to dampen the gaps in whatever your choice of pathway maybe as not doing so seems to result in the Flowpoint simply becoming grains of grit if not used quickly….. nice Job Tim 😎👍
I love the pathway! What type of stone is that?
Sandstone.
Recommend not even bothering to wet the slabs at first. It just makes the job more messy. Apply dry , sweep neatly into the gaps, and then wet afterwards.
I just watched another video using the same product. It stained the slabs if they were not sufficiently wet.
I’ve used this Sika product too between porcelain flags but it has ended up looking shabby. I’m not sure what’s happened but it has turned white in some patchy areas almost. Any idea?
Do you not add any water to the mixture?
An off cut of feather edge or shiplap works great for compacting it in the joints and is much quicker then just smooth the top with your trowel.
Fantastic stuff Tim
Hi what product did you use ? Can anyone let me know please.
Thanks
Would you recommend sika fastfix, easyjoint or flowpoint? Or something else?
Sika and geofix are the ones to avoid worst ones available, flow point is best if you know what you’re doing with it
Some of my paving has stains from the product, what do I do
What do you use the SBR link for? there is nothing on the video that indicates is used. Can you explain why and how you use it on the tiles?
After 3 years how is this holding up?
Loosen up - sometimes a perfect finish isn't necessary...Its not a runway, its a garden path ;-)
You should get your helper some proper work pants with knee pads as he is helping you more and more now!
All on order! 😉
Dude, what type of bricks are they? Ta
Hi Tim, can this type of jointing compound be used on flags that are dry laid on a sand bed. I’ve removed some old pointing and ready to repoint but unsure which way to go. Thanks Adam
can we have a lawn update?
Have you got any lingering smell from the grout as I have just used this in the last week and I think I can still smell it? Could be nasal memory.
One thing I would say is the bigger the gap (within reason) the better, I did it with the minimum of 5mm and it was a lot more difficult to pack in. I also used it on dry concrete slabs halfway through and found it a little easier but that is against the manufacturers recommendation, the slabs had been dampened prior and I think the warning is more for natural materials.
Only for a day or two but soon goes. Yes, its not great at tiny joints as unlike kiln dried sand it doesn't fall in well. Best things would be to grind down a tuck trowel to the thickness of the joint and run it in.
By the way, the path looks fantastic.
When is the slurry video dropping?
Do the pointing in the rain.
One posh brickie the old method is the only method
The wetter the better 😉
😳
Don't be rude 🤣
The brush in resin type jointing is only for permeable paving, do not use it on non permeable, also, the Sika one is rubbish
Easier to concrete stencil it, n throw colour then wash off.. done in Australia 20 years ago but gives u this look. Exposed agg is the new go to but stencil was a big thing back then
Easier to leave it as dirt. Easier to leave it as grass. Easier to dump gravel on it. Easier to spray paint it brown. Not everybody wants to sacrifice quality to do it the easy way. That’s how we end up with entire neighborhoods of vinyl-sided, plastic shuttered McMansions.
@@manillafresh57 easier to such ur mouth 😂😜😘😁🤓
lol cowboy
Why?
Sika is some of the worst 1 part pointing there is will last a year
Don’t buy this expensive corner cutting load of shite. After a year it starts coming out the joints. I’m in the process now of doing mine again the proper way because I fell into the trap.
I see a scaffold... what are you hiding from us??
Still repointing the house walls. 🙄
Never see the Point of this !!
Stops the weeds from growing!
Totally waste of time and money