Victory Gasifier Rebuild.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2019
- Howdee, my fellow woodengassers,
Here's a little preview of how the rebuild is going.
Stick welding mild steel to high carbon steel is quite a challenge, but I am making good progress.
The finished gasser will resemble a Flashifier, and it will enjoy many of its benefits, minus the ignition port, as I feel that I can manage just fine without it.
Hmmm, famous last words!
If this works as intended, it is likely that I will replicate all of its internal parts in stainless steel, so as to ensure a long and happy lifespan for this fine wee beastie :) . - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
LOL at the *BUTT HURT* flunts and religiots who are TRYING to dislike my videos.
Is that really the 'best' you dimwits can do?
Sucks to be you!
Keep on working to perfect... screw the naysayers... the whole lot of them... thanks for posting! Blessings and Success!
@@rongray4118
Thanks kindly.
Just now, have I noticed your reply.
Well done ,from Australia just starting my build,,,,,,
@@melissamoore4624
Thanks kindly.
Looking forward to seeing watt you are building :) .
I like your sense of humor
Thanks kindly :) .
Thank you brother for sharing your knowledge and your sense of humor God bless. From northern Michigan.
You are welcome.
We woodengassers have to stick together, lest the woodgas bugz get us, and slurp out all our yummy blood ;) .
You are like a wood gas genius, my friend! I always like to see what you come up with next- keep the videos of the progress of the wood bug jail you are constructing.
Thanks kindly, but I dunno about the genius part of it ;) .
The local woodgas bug population is starting to get a little nervous, as they know that they will soon be incarcerated for their numerous crimes against neck safety :) .
Making some great progress on the gasifier. Looking forward to seeing more as it develops
Thanks kindly.
This is coming along quite smoothly, and I wood like to think that I can set fire to it in the near future.
we're grinders more than welders, and that's ok. whatever gets the job done. the seagull poop is for camouflage
Indeed, our grinders help us to cover up many a sin in the welding department :) .
I really love my grinders.
Just a little bit of training and practice you can make beautiful welds... Keep trying
I can tell that you've put a lot of thought into making this build easy to service. Wow $1500+ for stainless steel for the hearth? I know this is your main source of winter power so I can see why you want it built like a battle ship. It's looking really good and I can't wait to see it completed. I was looking at your single nozzle design and I wanted to give you some feedback from my personal experience on this design. The first time I set up my single nozzle build I did what you did with running the air intake down the side of the inner chamber then followed up with angling the nozzle into the ember bed. The concern I had was bridging so my work around was to run the air nozzle straight down the center at a 90 Deg angle starting at the top where the air intake is so that wood chunks could flow freely around the nozzle without worries of wood perching up on the angle where the nozzle meets the top of the hearth but I'm sure you've probably considered that. Just my opinion but the original "Victory Gasifier" design with nozzles being around the sides of the hearth are probably a much better design as far as reducing possible bridging issues but since most of us are running smaller engines we can get away with a single air nozzle design and I never see any major bridging issues especially using a 90 Deg straight nozzle setup. You can still dissipate the air somewhat sideways by adding an end cap at the bottom of the nozzle thus forcing the air flow to travel out at a 90 Deg angle. Before I hang up the phone I would like to say that I really enjoyed seeing the pink flowers that suddenly bloomed in the video somewhere around 3:10 in the video. Yep I wrote a book here. Sorry about that
Howdee Mike,
Great book. I loved it. It's gonna be a top seller ;) .
Yeah, those hearth parts are pretty spendy, but they are gonna be worth it in the long run.
I was wondering about the air feed nozzle assembly, and its effect on fuel flow.
After the video was done, I started playing around with some pipe fittings, and eventually arrived at the solution you have suggested here.
Talking of nozzle count, you may remember my FEMA to Imbert conversion video, where I created a triple nozzle arrangement.
It worked like a charm, and it also allowed me to stir the fuel column, if the need arose.
Perhaps I can add a fuel stirrer to the single nozzle system, somehow. Hmmmm!!
The original nozzle ring in the Victory Gasser was reasonably effective at preventing bridging, but it wood occasionally get jammed up.
With that in mind, I aimed to use engine vibrations as a partial solution.
It sort of worked, but it seems that no solution is perfect.
To spread the airflow at the air nozzle tip, I might try copying watt I see in garden hose squirtery nozzles.
These have a cone at the middle of the nozzle that causes the water to spread in a radial fashion.
Heck, anything is worth a try, but I suspect that the garden hose might melt in there :) .
Ahhhh, I am glad that you enjoyed the little splash of summer flowers in my video. That MSMPEG4V2 video codec just loves to fling pretty little flowery splat marks into my videological productions ;) .
Ho buddy I always enjoy your videos :) Stay well and keep it going :)
Howdee partner,
Thanks kindly.
More videos are coming along, fairly soonly.
Just learning a new editing program at the moment, and it is kinda slowing me down a bit - until I get my head wrapped around it :) .
Keep making the magic happen at your end of the line too.
You have the plan down pat there Mr Steve. I think you are going to be quite happy with the ease of clean out and or servicing your new creation. The Flash design was a godsend when it came to that. As for that lid, you may end up having to go with a compound hinge being it has those tapered alignment cones. Then again, maybe not. It may pivot down perfectly without it. I guess that is a work in progress. You are coming along rather nicely in your warmer summer weather. You mentioned about using the weight of the chamber / hopper to do the sealing on that flange. That seems a little scary to me with the grate shaker as well as a hopper vibrator keeping things moving as well as what Bill mentioned with the bug flatulence sending it into "launch mode". I would use some studs and wing nuts at the least to secure it. Then again, I don't know how much that hopper / chamber comes in at weight wise. I am sure it's quite heavy and add the weight of your solid stainless, 1" thick reduction zone and inverted cone and it will hold itself down. It's going to be one HEAVY assembly once you put it all together. Anyhow, you are making great progress on it to this point and we will NEED to be seeing some more updates from you as you progress through the build. Great work. Keep us posted
Howdee Mark,
Thanks kindly, my fellow woodgas addict.
During my use of this gasser, I learned a lot about its many fatal weaknesses, so I am hoping that I can improve it a lot with these rebuild steps.
Though the new hopper assembly will be pretty heavy, there is always the chance that it could attempt to blast off to the moon, or even the sun!
I will need to look into some hold down options for it, just to be sure it remains earth bound while testing the rocket engine :) .
As for the hopper lid, I am going to be working on that during the weekend, to see watt I can get away with.
Hopefully, I can arrive at a nice and simple solution for keeping those woodgas bugs from escaping.
Really looking forward to seeing this little guy up and running, once more.
Nice work there Mr Steeme. I'm excited to see it coning together. The theory is sound from my humbled opinion with only one suggestion for you. It was mentioned that the inner can would sit on top of the outer container with just RTV silicone to " glue" it together. That looks to me like it could become a rocket launcher when the inevitable bug flatulence occurs. It might serve well to bolt the two halves together and allow the lid to become the bug poop flapper. My similar design met the same fate at one point with a massive backfire which caused the bottom and the top of the outer barrel to bulge outward quite considerably. Had the snap ring for the barrel lid not been there I'm sure the inner core would have reached lofty heights in the shop accompanied by large amounts of glowing bug carcasses .
Your new access door will serve you well and will allow you to do maintenance and make adjustments to your grate , and so forth.
Good job and please keep us updated
Steve, I'm with Bill on attaching the hopper to the base. Even if you just want to throw a few latches around the perimeter that clamp it down. Other than that, great work. Can't wait to see you fire this up. And being that the spring is headed our way, we shouldn't have to wait long before you're going to need the heat. Keep us posted. Joe
Howdee BillyWatts,
It sure is sweet to see this old powerhouse getting a new lease on life.
You raise a good point on the launch capabilities of this particular spacecraft.
After all, it does have a rocket engine on its base, and a satellite antenna on its top, just like Elon Musk's rockets do ;) .
I will need to devise a means of more firmly locking the upper and lower halves of my space rocket together, so there will be more room for the woodgas bugs when they go into orbit.
Hmmm, thinking caps....... activated!
Hopefully, I will not have a big blastoff like you did at your launch site ;) .
Indeedy, that access hatch is LONG overdue, as pulling the entire gasser to bits in order to make even the smallest internal alteration was becoming somewatt tiresome.
Yeah sure, I have lots of spare tires here, but I am saving those for a less tiresome occasion.
I am really looking forward to the light up on this, but that's a fair way down the track, as I have LOTS of lathe work to do on the stainless steel parts that will adorn this fine wee beastie.
Howdee Joe,
Yup, I will need to have me a bit of a think about the connection between those two rocket stages.
A ring of studs wood work, but I may go with something along the lines you have suggested.
If I had known how much it wood hurt to think, I wood knot have tried it ;) .
My brain hertz!
Hi Steve, Stephen here. Also in NZ. Have been playing with gasifiers myself. Have learned that, flow of fuel through the system is paramount. The less restriction to flow, the better. Consider having another cone on top of your top cone, to help feed the fuel into the lower cone. You don't want fuel resisting gravity by sitting on that 1 inch thick lip of 316. Your top cone has a bigger angle than Flashes. I think he has pretty much nailed that dimension. His goes from a 5 inch top diameter down to a 3 inch lower diameter over a height of 5 inches. 6 inches if you include the 1 inch cylinder section. You are going from 6 inches down to 2 inches in a 5 inch drop. That is a much bigger angle, and could be significant. It might be enough to restrict the flow. I think you should make a cone out of cheaper mild steel and test it before you lay out that much cash for the stainless. It was the thought of soooo much money that prompted me to write. You don't need a big hopper. I'm thinking streamlined or coned all the way down is better. To fill a hopper to the top is the quickest way to get a big injection of moister in your system and then bad things happen. Frequent doses of freshly dried fuel seems to work better. Like the rotating air pipe. Will be watching to see how that goes. Really hope your build goes great for you. All the best.
Howdee Stephen from Kiwiana :) ,
Yes, I will really need to experiment with the fuel flow elements of this gasser, as bridging is one of those things that can really mess things up.
A guide cone, over the burn cone, sounds like a good idea, and I reckon that I could reuse some of the old steel from the original gasser for this.
The hopper on this new build is a lot bigger than the old one, but I plan to fill it only half way, so as to combat the moisture issue.
Maybe, just maybe, I will also consider putting an air intake on the lid, to see if it can help to manage the moisture level in the hopper.
Sure, there is a chance that this will promote gas explosions when the fuel level is low, but I will try anything, at least once ;) .
The final geometry of the burn cone is up for grabs at the moment, and I may just start out with a lower angle, then increase it in steps, until I find the right setting for the fuel chunk sizes that I use here.
Perhaps I could start out with a mild steel one, as you suggest, as that is a lot quicker, and cheaper, to set up :) .
I am happy with the rest of the dimensions, but that top cone just might become something of a stumbling block.
Hopefully, I will be in a position to test this, in the next couple of months :) .
@@CNCmachiningisfun Sounds like you are well on your way to a good system. Keep thinking outside the box. I think there is room for improvements to these things. Hope it meets your expectations. Looking forward to seeing the results of your build. Carry on, old chap.
@@gasonthebrain3738
Yup, I wood like to think that watt I am doing is gonna get me most of the way there :) .
Since I rely heavily upon this machine for my winter power, I really do need to get it right-ish.
Fingers crossed for good results :) .
Lots of anti seize on the bolts holding the gasifier guts. The can be a b.i.t.ch to get apart after liberal amounts of heat have been applied
Hmmm, good point!
I wonder if I can benefit from using very long bolts, with spacers, so the nuts will be more distant from the hot spots.
Good stuff.
Thanks kindly.
This gasifier has kept the lights on, for quite some years now :) .
Nice build out.
Thanks kindly.
This gasifier has clocked up a couple of thousand hours, and it is still going strong :) .
@CNCmachiningisfun so over time....how does the genetic deal with the gas? Carbon, heat, etc. I would think that gasoline would be better just by cooling alone....but it's a trade off for what a gasifier is meant to do and can do.
Do you have tar issues at carb? How often do you need to change filter media?
@@CNCmachiningisfun genset....not generic.
@@wadebrewer7212
Woodgas can be very clean, such that the generator will last many years, in near perfect condition.
I used to think that it wood quickly wreck an engine, but no, I was pleasantly surprised :) .
Cooling isn't really an issue here, as the genset is not working hard enough to benefit much from the cooling qualities of a liquid fuel.
Because my gasifier is not running as cleanly as it should, and I am using the worst kind of fuel, it produces more tar than I wood like.
If left unchecked, this wood eventually freeze the throttle, and start to accumulate behind the intake valve.
In severe cases, it can bend valves, seize piston rings - bend pushrods - and snap rockers.
I learned this the hard way, as I have made EVERY mistake in the book :) .
On mine, because it runs a little dirty, and is operated in the freezing winter months, filter media replacement occurs every 50-ish hours.
The old filter media is quite flammable, so I use it in the log burner, to heat the house :) .
@@CNCmachiningisfun nice. Awesome information. Thank you!
Use a pneumatic autobody paint shaker (mixer) for grate shaker.
Yup. That could work.
I had hoped that the engine's motion would be enough to shake the gasser, but that didn't really turn out too well.
What I use for the hearth cones are Cast SS butt weld pipe reducers. They are perfect for this and are already made. But you are sort of limited to what is offered. But there is a 6 X 2 inch one that I can get. It is 5 1/2" deep. This is how Ive been building since 2013 ish with the larger end up. The small opening feeds into a straight tube reduction. The gas temps leaving the mouth of the hearth bowl here are at the highest level. So when the gas enters the reduction, at this stage it opens up so there is no direct metal exposure the gas at this temperature. These hearth bowls are the only SS parts I use and this is only because this is one instance where SS is actually less cost and there is more to choose from with in my vendor. Otherwise I would never use SS internally. SS is not a good material for this, as it will retain heat. The metals will grow and over stress and over time with heat cycling, it will work harden itself and eventually fail. I think you have already seen this. SS also has a lower melting point than mild steel. I have never seen metal degradation in through corrosion in a gasifier. The metals generally appear as if they were sand blasted. Corrosion should never be an issue in a gasifier as the Oxygen is limited in process will not make it any farther than oxidizing the fuel. The only place I would use SS is for the hopper. For the filters I use an industrial coating that will outlast the machine. The metals could completely rot away and the shell of this stuff would still be left over. lol
Yeah my systems now have a floating reactor. The entire reactor floats inside a housing. So it can grow and expand with out stressing. The hearth bowls are also curved, this allows for stress displacement verses a straight architectures where the metal will grow but cant go anywhere.
A little paint will fix those welds right up. :)
Yup and my new reactors have a center air intake feed as well. But also have radial type intake input. But my machines are also jet less :) Mine have an upper chamber, you could think of this as a carburetor for a gasifier reactor. This feeds both air and fuel into the combustion chamber through a small opening much like the hearth bell. The air feeding down through the center feeds the core combustion process. In the lower hearth/combustion chamber there is a second radial air feed. This feeds the outer combustion process. Some of the pyrolysis gas is consumed here along char. This second stage works sort of like a fluidized system. This reactor emits zero combustion gases into the hearth. so I never have moisture in the hopper. The fuel stays dry all the way to the hearth with out any moisture absorption. So this is especially why my reductions are built the way there are, otherwise the reactor would melt them into a puddle.
Yeah that service panel! I had always wondered why everyone used these tiny clean out ports? I figured this was a tried and proven way so I just followed the heard. Later on I thought this is just stupid, why not a door? Would it not seal? So I built one with a door and worked fine!! Now I use an architecture of a round vessel for the char/ash. The door wraps around this and when the latch pulls it pulls the seal tight. Think of a hose clamp if you will, This is so much nicer and you have full access to the grate system with ease. Just pull the latch and the door is open :)
Yes, those pipe reducers look like a great way to go.
Sadly, I can't get the sizes that I want for this, so I have opted to build them from raw stock.
I got more than 1000 hours of runtime from my first lot of SS components, and these were a LOT lighter than the new system that I am planning to employ, so I wood like to think that I can get even more runtime from this.
We will see aboot that :) .
I have a lot to learn about gasification in general, but watt I do know is enough to keep me 100% addicted to this amazing technology.
Good video. Why did the crucible have to be stainless? Because it melted?
Yup.
Melting, or oxidising, way before its time, was an ongoing problem with this part of the gasifier.
The stainless parts are durable, but even they will wear out, in time.
@@CNCmachiningisfun Would a brake rotor melt you think? Probably, right? I noticed the Imbert design is just all cast iron. I'm building a small one maybe I can find some stainless or like a speedy-sleeve type thing where you just sleeve something stainless into a steel pyrolysis hole. Great videos, thank you for sharing your information, it's greatly appreciated!
@@kittywampusdrums4963
I am not sure that it wood melt, but there is a good chance that it will erode, due to the air/flame mix - working like a gas axe.
It is worth a try, and it can save you a lot of work.
Watt's better is that you can get the same part, over and over again, in order to replace it, when it finally wears out :) .
Just be sure to take the various expansion rates of your metals into account, as this can easily tear apart the interior of your gasifier.
Yes, I am sure that you'll find something in stainless, off the shelf, that lends itself to the creative task.
If it hasn't happened already, you may find yourself looking at everything in a very different way, as you consider their possible placement in a gasifier project.
Once this happens, you'll know that you have been bitten by the woodgas bug :) .
@@CNCmachiningisfun Lol that bug already bit me and I think it layed eggs in my skin too.
@@kittywampusdrums4963
Enjoy the venom that flows in your veins, as it shall lead you to great, and watty, wonders :) .
How's your gasifier holding out?
Thanks for asking.
It is still doing very nicely, and it is going to be extra busy, now that winter is upon us.
If you give this a try, you'll surely become addicted to it :) .
@@CNCmachiningisfun already am addicted to it after one build
@@newageautotechnology
Yup.
It looks like you have been bitten by the woodgas bug.
Join the club :) .
Dirty hands clean money
Yup. My washing masheen is full o' money ;) .