Nice video, Gasifier looks very good as well. If you are going to run engines, suction is the way to go. There is a difference in the flow between pressure and vacuum. All the best TerryL
Looks good. put a simple cooler in line and use a shop vac to pull on the system... that's what i've always done. a short ring around your restriction opening will hold ash so it acts like insulation on your restriction plate is something you can implement easily at some point if you want. I'd look at dealing with hopper condensates as well, but your system should make gas. looking forward to seeing more videos.
Tri, At some point I will build a cooler. Its still winter here and the wet scrubber has been a good cooler for my testing. I do have a short ring about 3" tall that the orifice plate sits on and there is a space between the ring and hearth wall. I fill that with ash for insulation and to prevent gas from sneaking around the edge of the plate. Thanks for your comments and ideas
a car radiator with electric fan between the cyclone filter and the main fine filter to cool and condense water vapours works well, most radiators have a convienient tap to drain them on the lower tank , making water/creasote extraction easy , if the catch jar is held at intake vacumn pressure then the take-off can be automatic, nice gasifier btw
I think the plan seems good as long as we are air tight. Looking at capacity I noticed that those older imberts on those cars were short an wide. I noticed most succsess with the 55 gallon drum style for a 4 or 6 cyl
Nice, I've seen some with spring loaded valves on the lids, do they backfire ? I was thinking about improving the cyclone and I thought of the Dyson vacuum cleaner as its very efficient maybe you can take some photos and model it with your software, do you have any software that can test your modifications without firing up your own unit
Thanks for sharing this design. I am a guitar builder and my goal is to build a gasifier to power a generator and run my shop this way. I will be using a 7500 watt genny and as long as I'm not using more than two machine's at a time I think it will work. Is there any way I could get a copy of your drawings?
Hello, I'm Brazilian and I would like to know what the purpose of your party is, if you have already built any of them and have adapted to your vehicle
My fear is your cole bed at the reaction zone will collapse and dump on to your grate, you may rethink leaving the (hour glass) design out. My understanding is that that is what prevents this problem?
Terry, Thanks, Im on my way to where you are already at. I understand your comment on the vacuum. Trying to find a down stream high temp blower that is good for a few inches of water pressure is no cheap endeavor. I'm just beginning this journey and it will take awhile. I'm not looking forward to trading in my powerstroke for a gas engine.
Really nice job. Can you shear the drawings? I would like to build one. There is a metal works shop next to me and they can make it as I don't have all the tools. But this guys don't talk without a drawing. If you could pack the drawings to a ZIP or a RAR file i would appreciate it. Thanks.
hi ... how are you??? i think That your video is very interesting. .. could you talk me about the measure in millimeters? i ll be wait your answer. .. thanks
Fantastic cad design. Have you seen or heard of the TH-camr flash001usa? Or read the gasification bible. They will have lots of information if you are still working on things.
wkweasel just zip all the files and then upload them to any cloud online like "google drive". Make the file public and share its link in the description. Or if can email me at "esumb1234@gmail.com", I would be very thank to you for it.
I think that preheat intake air is not good idea. It is good to cool down output gases but I think intake have to be as cool as possible. First because cold air is more dense so it provide more oxygen. For example your engine use 20 litters of gas per minute. In means that gasifier will suck in 20 litters of air. If it is cold air we get let's say 4 litters of pure oxygen and if you preheat it you get only 3 litters. Those numbers are nothing true. It is just attempt to explain the principe. I do not know real numbers per litter.
+Sergey Romanov - The AIR PREHEAT is a very essential part of any really good Imbert Gasifier. This seems to be the area that confuses many. The advantage of the Imbert design is that it is capable of "CRACKING THE TAR". Basically the Wood Gas passes through the Super Heated bed of Charcoal. If the Reduction Zone and Air Jet configuration are constructed correctly, The Gas passes through a Coal Bed that is Hot enough, and the Gas spends enough time in that super heated area to Crack the Tar. Crack the Tar refers to converting the Creosote and other Gummy substances into more usable Gas. The three problems that can hinder this process are , Intake air that is too cool so that it lowers the temperature of the hot spot at the reduction zone, or Air or Fuel that contains too much moisture so that it cools the hot spot too much, or The configuration of the reduction zone and jets is inadequate to create a consistent Hot Spot at the reduction zone. The Gas needs to pass through a Bed that is hot enough and it needs to spend enough time there to make the therm-chemical conversion. So you need Temperature and Time. Yes after all the conversion is completed, it is important to Cool the Gas to make it more efficient. The difference of incoming air density because of temperature is in fact a non issue. Remember you are trying to restrict and control the incoming air. No need to have cool dense incoming air. You need it as Hot as you can get it. So it doesnt affect the temperature of the reduction zone.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W3D1 | Summer | เริ่มต้น สัปดาห์ตัดสิน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pWsl9LhC2Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice video, Gasifier looks very good as well.
If you are going to run engines, suction is the way to go. There is a difference in the flow between pressure and vacuum.
All the best
TerryL
Looks good. put a simple cooler in line and use a shop vac to pull on the system... that's what i've always done.
a short ring around your restriction opening will hold ash so it acts like insulation on your restriction plate is something you can implement easily at some point if you want.
I'd look at dealing with hopper condensates as well, but your system should make gas.
looking forward to seeing more videos.
Tri,
At some point I will build a cooler. Its still winter here and the wet scrubber has been a good cooler for my testing. I do have a short ring about 3" tall that the orifice plate sits on and there is a space between the ring and hearth wall. I fill that with ash for insulation and to prevent gas from sneaking around the edge of the plate. Thanks for your comments and ideas
a car radiator with electric fan between the cyclone filter and the main fine filter to cool and condense water vapours works well, most radiators have a convienient tap to drain them on the lower tank , making water/creasote extraction easy , if the catch jar is held at intake vacumn pressure then the take-off can be automatic, nice gasifier btw
thank you so much, I am finding information about how to make the grate shaker. And, you gave me the solution.
I think the plan seems good as long as we are air tight. Looking at capacity I noticed that those older imberts on those cars were short an wide. I noticed most succsess with the 55 gallon drum style for a 4 or 6 cyl
Lovely.good job
Hello, perfect video! Is there any chynce to get your technical drawings to be able to build the gasifier on my own? Thank you very much.
Howdy doodee, hope you are doing well... what a crazy reality we live in, eh... lol
(Plastic usage would be grand!)
Nice, I've seen some with spring loaded valves on the lids, do they backfire ? I was thinking about improving the cyclone and I thought of the Dyson vacuum cleaner as its very efficient maybe you can take some photos and model it with your software, do you have any software that can test your modifications without firing up your own unit
Thanks for sharing this design. I am a guitar builder and my goal is to build a gasifier to power a generator and run my shop this way. I will be using a 7500 watt genny and as long as I'm not using more than two machine's at a time I think it will work.
Is there any way I could get a copy of your drawings?
Hello, I'm Brazilian and I would like to know what the purpose of your party is, if you have already built any of them and have adapted to your vehicle
My fear is your cole bed at the reaction zone will collapse and dump on to your grate, you may rethink leaving the (hour glass) design out. My understanding is that that is what prevents this problem?
Hello. How much kw engine can run at this gasifier? Thanks for quick answer.
Great video. We'd like to build one in our FabLab in Łódź. Could you share your design with us ?
Terry,
Thanks, Im on my way to where you are already at. I understand your comment on the vacuum. Trying to find a down stream high temp blower that is good for a few inches of water pressure is no cheap endeavor. I'm just beginning this journey and it will take awhile. I'm not looking forward to trading in my powerstroke for a gas engine.
hello please which software I can use to model or design this type of gasifier ? thank you
Really nice job. Can you shear the drawings? I would like to build one. There is a metal works shop next to me and they can make it as I don't have all the tools. But this guys don't talk without a drawing. If you could pack the drawings to a ZIP or a RAR file i would appreciate it. Thanks.
hi Im at north of argentina can I have your cad drowing to make one?? thanks
hi ... how are you???
i think That your video is very interesting. .. could you talk me about the measure in millimeters? i ll be wait your answer. .. thanks
How do i get You're design is available for public?
Galvanized tank + heat equals poison gas.. I guess it depends on just how hot it gets.
Fantastic cad design. Have you seen or heard of the TH-camr flash001usa? Or read the gasification bible. They will have lots of information if you are still working on things.
check out flash001usa. he has a nice set up.
What software is this Weasel?
+urgentcareguy3
Autodesk Inventor
Ok, thanks.
how would you like me to share the design?
wkweasel just zip all the files and then upload them to any cloud online like "google drive". Make the file public and share its link in the description. Or if can email me at "esumb1234@gmail.com", I would be very thank to you for it.
I think that preheat intake air is not good idea. It is good to cool down output gases but I think intake have to be as cool as possible. First because cold air is more dense so it provide more oxygen. For example your engine use 20 litters of gas per minute. In means that gasifier will suck in 20 litters of air. If it is cold air we get let's say 4 litters of pure oxygen and if you preheat it you get only 3 litters.
Those numbers are nothing true. It is just attempt to explain the principe. I do not know real numbers per litter.
you want to keep the hearth at 600c to keep the gas clean.
+Sergey Romanov - The AIR PREHEAT is a very essential part of any really good Imbert Gasifier. This seems to be the area that confuses many. The advantage of the Imbert design is that it is capable of "CRACKING THE TAR". Basically the Wood Gas passes through the Super Heated bed of Charcoal. If the Reduction Zone and Air Jet configuration are constructed correctly, The Gas passes through a Coal Bed that is Hot enough, and the Gas spends enough time in that super heated area to Crack the Tar. Crack the Tar refers to converting the Creosote and other Gummy substances into more usable Gas. The three problems that can hinder this process are , Intake air that is too cool so that it lowers the temperature of the hot spot at the reduction zone, or Air or Fuel that contains too much moisture so that it cools the hot spot too much, or The configuration of the reduction zone and jets is inadequate to create a consistent Hot Spot at the reduction zone. The Gas needs to pass through a Bed that is hot enough and it needs to spend enough time there to make the therm-chemical conversion. So you need Temperature and Time. Yes after all the conversion is completed, it is important to Cool the Gas to make it more efficient. The difference of incoming air density because of temperature is in fact a non issue. Remember you are trying to restrict and control the incoming air. No need to have cool dense incoming air. You need it as Hot as you can get it. So it doesnt affect the temperature of the reduction zone.
Bert Davis Thank you for this explanation. now I understand why.
CAN I GET DRAWINGS.