Fantastic idea , currently doing a bare shell restoration on my mini and due to initial budget constraints I'll be using the original 998 as a short term powerplant to get it rolling and through it's first MOT back on the road. It's needing a verto clutch so this could be the perfect solution to see me through the transition to a big bore engine with one of your supercharger kits without having to buy twice ! Thanks for the tutorial 👍
Stuart, in the video at around 5:39, you mention using Loctite 571, this does not seem to be available in the UK? Would 243 Loctite Blue be suitable? Also, if the clutch had already been balanced would it need balancing after the upgrade?
Would I be right in saying that the same process should work for clutches that have a plate under the rivitheads holding the spring in place ? Potentially just needing slightly longer bolts to accomodate the additional thickness of the plate ?
Stuart - I have just been advised to change my MED ST1 Competition Clutch and lightened flywheel for an RTS type clutch. Just been quoted £750 for one to be made (new). Having come across this video I think I'll have a go at making my own :-) Many thanks (would I be able to retain my Lightened Flywheel and convert the existing clutch?
Hi Bill , its best to have a clutch suited to the torque of the engine - for supercharged one up rated verto unit (see minispares) with one standard extra verto spring will give you around 160-180ft lbs capacity, many RTS are 2x uprated or 2x turbo giving around 250 plus ft lbs capacity and an unnecessary heavy pedal wearing clutch operating components.
@@Vmaxporsch Stuart - since posting this MED have confirmed that the Clutch I have is rated 70lb/ft this has been balanced. I was hoping to add another spring to this clutch - picked up a very good condition one locally last night.
@@Vmaxporsch Sorry Stuart difficult without knowing my spec or intended use. 1310, Hepolite 8cc pistons, AC RS Cam, will have 1.3 Rockers, LCB and RC40, doing the head myself. Initially engine wont be SC, but I am ensuring Diff and Clutch will be up to it and not need changing. So 3.44 Moly Pin is being swapped for Crss Pin 3.1. I am not looking for a massive powerful engine, just anything over 100ft/lb - 140ft/lb would do nicely thanks :-) I picked up a SH Eaton65 and I have a DCOE 45 (nothing else yet) also looking out for a MegaJolt and Ford EDIS bits.
@@Vmaxporsch P21253, I have been advised to head for 8.5CR (for which I'll need a decompression plate as I won't be able to get enough meat out of the head). I was also advised 10 PSI so 120BHP and 130ft lbs would be absolutely fine.
I'm pretty sure, it's the same as the one that came out, just been thinking, I've used a different top hat and I'm wondering if that hasn't gone on the crank as far as the old top hat?
When I drilled my rivets out, they are like washers, they haven't got the little extension like yours which makes them look like top hats, how can I make that missing distance up and what is the length of that missing bit? Any help is much appreciated
U have saved my mini with the verto clutch upgrade.
Fantastic idea , currently doing a bare shell restoration on my mini and due to initial budget constraints I'll be using the original 998 as a short term powerplant to get it rolling and through it's first MOT back on the road. It's needing a verto clutch so this could be the perfect solution to see me through the transition to a big bore engine with one of your supercharger kits without having to buy twice ! Thanks for the tutorial 👍
Such good info... thanks for sharing. I’m now considering taking mine apart
Hi what's the best way to work out what two verto spring plates I would need to use? I have roughly about 180ftlbs tourq.
Thanks
Stuart, in the video at around 5:39, you mention using Loctite 571, this does not seem to be available in the UK? Would 243 Loctite Blue be suitable? Also, if the clutch had already been balanced would it need balancing after the upgrade?
yep
@@Vmaxporsch I take it thats a yes to both? Also can I send you my RTS Clutch and Flywheel to get balanced (when I finish it)?
Is there anything that needs to be done differently when setting up the clutch after installation when using the extra spring?
Would I be right in saying that the same process should work for clutches that have a plate under the rivitheads holding the spring in place ? Potentially just needing slightly longer bolts to accomodate the additional thickness of the plate ?
yep
Is the pedal twice as heavy with the twin springs? And where can I get it balanced?
Yes, and any good machine refurb place should be able to do it. Mine wasn't out by much after I had my RTS made.
Stuart - I have just been advised to change my MED ST1 Competition Clutch and lightened flywheel for an RTS type clutch. Just been quoted £750 for one to be made (new). Having come across this video I think I'll have a go at making my own :-) Many thanks (would I be able to retain my Lightened Flywheel and convert the existing clutch?
Hi Bill , its best to have a clutch suited to the torque of the engine - for supercharged one up rated verto unit (see minispares) with one standard extra verto spring will give you around 160-180ft lbs capacity, many RTS are 2x uprated or 2x turbo giving around 250 plus ft lbs capacity and an unnecessary heavy pedal wearing clutch operating components.
@@Vmaxporsch Stuart - since posting this MED have confirmed that the Clutch I have is rated 70lb/ft this has been balanced. I was hoping to add another spring to this clutch - picked up a very good condition one locally last night.
@@Vmaxporsch Sorry Stuart difficult without knowing my spec or intended use. 1310, Hepolite 8cc pistons, AC RS Cam, will have 1.3 Rockers, LCB and RC40, doing the head myself. Initially engine wont be SC, but I am ensuring Diff and Clutch will be up to it and not need changing. So 3.44 Moly Pin is being swapped for Crss Pin 3.1. I am not looking for a massive powerful engine, just anything over 100ft/lb - 140ft/lb would do nicely thanks :-) I picked up a SH Eaton65 and I have a DCOE 45 (nothing else yet) also looking out for a MegaJolt and Ford EDIS bits.
@@Sternhammer89 what number are the pistons ? running 10 psi is probably going to get you 120 bhp and 130 ft lbs of torque at 6000/4000 rpm at a guess
@@Vmaxporsch P21253, I have been advised to head for 8.5CR (for which I'll need a decompression plate as I won't be able to get enough meat out of the head). I was also advised 10 PSI so 120BHP and 130ft lbs would be absolutely fine.
Help !! Just put my clutch flywheel back together and the wok won't fit because the release bearing is hitting the thrust sleeve ??
hi , you have the correct verto release bearing?
I'm pretty sure, it's the same as the one that came out, just been thinking, I've used a different top hat and I'm wondering if that hasn't gone on the crank as far as the old top hat?
What size drill did you use to drill the rivets out initially? 🤔
6.9mm ready to tap m8 thread in them
@@Vmaxporsch cheers, going to give this a go 😬
When I drilled my rivets out, they are like washers, they haven't got the little extension like yours which makes them look like top hats, how can I make that missing distance up and what is the length of that missing bit? Any help is much appreciated
@@ianroberts8692 hi ian , can you send me a pic ? I can prob find some on an old cover
@@Vmaxporsch will do,
Dear sir have you sale this parts thank you
no just a video to show you how its done