My hood to cowl seal on my hood is bad and water is leaking on to my Coil and TAB and TAD solenoid, so if you are having problems with the coil a hood leak could cause it. It started running rough so I open the hood to check for problem in a rain storm, is how I found the leak. If your distributor keeps having problems I recommend changing the whole distributor, I had the same problem until I changed it. I was buy modules and pickups every 6 months, but since changing it, I've had no problems in 10 plus years. Besides if either one of them goes out the truck won't run at all. Usually when it starts running rough it's usually the EGR or a vacuum problem. Need to occasionally clean intake the with carb/intake cleaner.
my 1988 f250 5.8L use to burn up the ignition module about one every 1 to 2 years. got sick of it so i made the wiring harness and went to salvage yard and got a heat sink bracket like the 92-96 have on the finder. so i moved the module to the fender been running the same module for 5 years with no issue. there is a guy on here in you tube land that shows you how to make the wire harness. but the pick up coil i had to replace 2 times in about 7 years. just go to auto zone and get the whole distributor. it has life time warranty and its like $77.99 in my area. that pick up coil will have you chasing gremlins under that hood for days i tell ya
Thanks, my 88 5.0l was losing power horribly going up hills and getting worse fast. Advance told me a pickup coil wasn't available so I had to do a whole distributer but it worked out as it came with cap, rotor and ignition module for around 90 bucks. Runs like a champ now,
You're right ,the PICKUP coil can sometimes be the culprit, unfortunately YOU TUBE doesn't distinguish very well between a PICKUP coil and an IGNITION coil. THANKS!
A big thank you. So many videos pointing to similar symptoms and more intuitive solutions. Mine ran pretty good, but for years now... occasionally missing, occasionally stalling... then starting again 15 min later. It seemed worse when really humid. I did all the cheaper things too (plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, coil, icm)... each thing I'd replace and no improvement. The distributor kinda seemed unlikely, but... after watching this I bought a new one. Considering 190K miles and wear on the distributor... and the work of changing the pick up coil, it seemed reasonable just to buy a new one. It runs perfectly now.
A Actron CP9690 code tester can show a code for the pickup coil. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions test, solenoid and relay test, oil light reset, check engine light reset, transmission codes, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it. Replace the distributor to correct this problem. You need a special tool to replace the pick-up coil. Get a oil pump primer shaft from a parts store or an old distributor with the gear removed to line up the oil pump to the distributor. It'll give a code about PIP sensor. It'll be a memory code.
91 Ford F150 4.9L strait 6 trouble starting. Sat for a year in barn. Put new interstate battery in, plenty of power! Last time I worked on it and started it, it needed new fuel filter. I was told the fuel pressure sensor was changed, thought the fuel pumps were going bad or weak. It started recently after Gum out and fresh gas, and spray starter fluid, had to hold foot on gas for a while to keep it from dying. Drove it, didn't act up for 10 miles 60 mph to the auto repair place, but now it won't start for them. I need it inspected, so I can drive it legally to get real professional help. What about the Fuel Pump Driver Moduel? I will tell them to check the coil. I replaced the silinoid myself, and the starter is lifetime warrenty. I don't think it's the computer. I have to tell this guy what to do, he doesn't know how to diagnose.
I know this an old post for people that are watching it now check the ECM. open it up look inside at the three capacitors if they're melted that's your problem
I had the same problem with my 93 f150 351w. Changed all the basic stuff chasing the problem like the fuel filter, gas treatment, plugs, wires, ignition module, cap and rotor. Nothing changed still ran like crap. it was driving me crazy that I couldn't figure it out. I ended up replacing the whole distributor cause that module in the distributor came apart and died leaving me stranded. That's what fixed it for me. it was that module in the distributor going bad.
Get a Acton CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, transmission codes, ABS, SRS, and MORE! Get 4 aaa batteries for under the rear cover. It's well-lit! It's updatable with a USB cable from EBAY. Replace the distributor and NOT the pickup coil. The code tester will give a code about PIP sensor. It'll probably be a memory code. Disconnect the positive battery cable for 15 minutes to reset the computer and test drive the truck. Then recheck codes.
Wrap black electrical tape around the coil wire.. I did.. Helped some. I've replaced almost everything and it still done it. Got bad at one point. Tape was my best result so far. almost a 90% loss. And back to normal
I have a 1996 Ford F150. Where the hood meets the firewall there supposed to be a gutter to keep the water off of the ignition coil. Over time it gets brittle and the metal no longer stops the water. Your ignition coil overtime gets Rusty looking and then after that it quits working. I can't tell you how many ignition coils I have had to buy because of this particular problem.
just for info, I have an 89 f150 302 4X4 and was able to change TFI by turning the distributor around to the front. to get to the bottom bolt I had to cut the removal tool so it only had about 1/2 in. of where the wrench goes left. hope this helps someone
did you try to change the plug of the module , cause on my truck was doing the same thing and i try to bent 4 connectors in the plug to the module an i didnt have any probleme after that
Travis this is Phillip again lol we talked to each other about 2 months ago LOL well A LOT has gone on 1/2 gear went out... The worst part is that I couldn't get one... For a while 🤬🤔🤔🤔🤔🤯 emojis said it. I got to do something cause my only truck. So I took the part out prepped it and I started to welding it up 🤔🤔🤔👁️👁️👁️👁️👁️👁️👁️🤯 and I was surprised when I finished it it took 🌑🌒🌓🌔🌕🌖🌗🌘🌙🌑🌒🌓🌔🌕🕛🕜🕟🕡🕘🕥🕦🕛 I miced it test fit it and wow. It feels good cause the 1/2 shift is so crispy and 3/4 5/R is sloppy as hell I'm gonna send a part 2 of this cause I have a revelation...
Travis Gill I bought the ignition coil twice I bought the computer brain thing on the side of the distributor 3 times I bought the throttle positioning sensor twice. I explain my problem I was having the two dozen certified mechanics not one of them ever mentioned the pickup coil the only way I found out it was the pickup coil was watching TH-cam and a random video I've watched was basically like this video here had mentioned the pickup cool which was the only thing I hadn't changed
Mines not running at all...parled it at a buddys house one night and got in ot to leave few hours later nothing checked fuel fire everuthing...2 distributors later i found out it might be the ecm....im so aggravated with the truck...
My truck is doing the same thing I changed plugs wires coil ignition coil that is and it feels like somebody just shuts it off on how late it runs better but in town driving I can barely get up a hill with all the jerking and bucking so I'm have to look at the distributor assembly cuz I'm about ready to pull my hair out if I had any..lol
@@BigTravGill Did you try if you didn't already check your ground and connectors? For corrosion And Loose wires or Broken wires because you need certain voltage in order for everything to work properly. Because I had a nineteen ninety bronco five point oh, that was going through the same issues, but it was usually the known suspects Relay , And start Selenoid. That's what my experience was. But for it's and giggles. What would it hurt to check the wires the ground? It's tedious. But it could be as simple as a connector that needs to be cleaned or replaced. But the other thing about these vehicles is that they do not I repeat. Do not like setting around something always goes wrong.
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks. ??
I have a 86 bronco truck starts fine once it is warm and I do stop and go in the city it will stall out let it cool off for a while then it will start again but stall out again once it is warm back and forth but if I drive on the interstate no problem till I get off of it then it will stall out and have to cool before it will start could it be the pick up coil changed everything else already not the pickup coil though
It is the switch under the dash enersue with the red button for reset when you hit a bad bump or when you get hit in the ass end BAM That's why it's jerks and stalls What do I know BEEN .MAN
Did changing the pick up coil fix the issue? I have a 1990 F150 with the 4.9 L6, does the same thing. Stutters, jerks, shakes and it doesnt smooth when accelerating. Just ordered new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Should I start trying to find a pick up coil next?
yes yes and yes.....I wasted more money on cap rotor, plugs...fuel filter....even a coil....it is a common problem with these trucks but for some reason not big on youtube
Mine will run fine but under load or accelerating, it acts as if its hitting red line. just bounces around 2500rpm. Is this something that will cause that to happen?
I just recently had similar symptoms with my 1990 E350 5.8. Checked my coil even tried a brand new one because last owner said he replaced that and it started up again. Plugs and wires were old as hell so I thought may be they burned out the new one prematurely. Going to check into distributor coil and icm now. The van is almost 3 decades old and I have no clue if this distributor has been replaced ever.
The odd thing is it has randomly shut off just a couple times on me since I got it and It happened so little and far apart I never looked into it until a couple weeks ago I fixed a coolent hose leak that broke at the connector and had to flush out the system because it lost so much coolent and I just replaced it all with new coolent. Old coolent was super dirty. Only after that did it randomly shut off a couple times while testing the new coolent and popping bubbles. Then first drive up a hill with it she cut off and wouldn't start until the next morning. Drove it home and it it cut out right in the driveway again.started first thing in the morning for next 2 days but would only run for about 15 min.
My truck shown here in the video was doing the same thing at times..Sometimes when driving it would just shut off and crank right back up..other times it had to sit for a few hours.
How you doing I replace the whole assembly distributor cap the whole unit complete and it's still doing the same thing what could it be my truck drives and sometimes loses power it has Estates sometimes it shuts off
I found these Ford's must throw a 1 inch blue spark or won't start.TFI pick up coils modules get weak alot. Fool people who think small spark is ok. MAP sensor go bad also. 5.0 good motors.
mine does all those things but when i first got the truck i replaced all the things on the throttle body and now its about 2 years you think its the parts i replaced or the distributor
I’m buying a 1984 f150 Saturday with this motor, it doesn’t run but the guy said he was driving and it backfired and he couldn’t get it started again, would this be possibly the problem?
@@dippinauto56 it can be on these older trucks.... now I'm not saying that's what happened with out seeing it but be careful. Its getting older to get parts for these here were I live so it is what it is
I have a 90 ford f150 and was wondering how did you get the whole distributor out? I cant budge it, its impossible to pull it out. I need to change out the pickup coil and find anywhere in detail that shows how to remove.
@@BigTravGill so my truck ran alright drove it for 2 years or so. Driving it two weeks ago the pin holding gear on distributor went out...it took me some searching but found that and pulled it ordered new one but guy said he couldnt find for 85 had to look up 87 lol anyways when I set on compression stroke with crank marker at 0 and rotor lined up with number 1 on dist housing unhooked spout started truck and set timing to 10 btdc with timing light. First try I didn't turn my truck off i hooked spout back up while running. I have tried and tried it will idle and rev up sounds awesome in neutral but when you put in gear and go to move it definitely not right.
my b2200 will run for most of the day then it will turn off like a switch and and wont start again. and then the very next day it will start again, and repeat the same process. could that be a bad ignition coil? i am completely stumped. PLEASE HELP!
no it doesn't have an ignition module, it's a bit to old for one. i have had to replace those before. there is no computer or anything like that. it's a pretty straight forward and simple truck. which surprises me that i can't figure it out. i know it's going to end up being something really simple. then i can kick myself.
10° btdc. If you set it at 0° the then spark fires with the piston at the very top of the stroke and the pressure from the ignition will not be complete enough to push the piston down. With it a 10° btdc then yes the initial ignition will be before the piston reaches the top of its stroke and be fully engulfed by the time the piston begins to move down the stroke giving a better detonation and more complete burn and use of the energy. If you're at 0 it'll run like garbage, no power, possibly popping through the intake under a load.
the spark seems pretty good, nice blue glow, plugs look clean, not fouled, i'm about to do a compression test though, and hit it with my timing light, it may have jumped timing. i get a light pop every now and then when cranking, starter fluid doesnt help either...
My 94 f150 turns over and but womt crank. It has fuel, and spark.. it was running fine and it just cutt off goimg down the highway. Could pickup coil be bad?
@@BigTravGill my truck runs great when I first started up and it's cold when it's in the closed loop but once it warms up and the loop opens it runs like crap ...so I'm thinking it might just be that pickup coil and distributor...it's the only thing I haven't looked at yet thanks for the info guys .....these words are kind of tricky sometimes
Mine backfires at half throttle and beyond and surges really badly, I’ve replaced a lot of things and even put new heads on the truck new plugs new distributor cap, I’m completely lost, I’ve put new fuel filters everything and it surges and backfires, any ideas?
I put just about 2k in parts and it has no pick up at all thought it was a fuel problem until I changed everything but im going to change the distributor hopefully it solves my issue
@@craineytv5787 I ended up doing a head swap on mine recently, made a world of difference but the distributor was my entire problem, but since it backfired and had issues so long it bunrt up a few valves so be careful of it
Chris Poindexter yeah my valves tapping now think ima change em oil might try the oil first but everyone saying it’s the fuel filter gonna try it wednesday I installed a new distributor still doing it I haven’t change the fuel filter r computer only two things I haven’t changed tht can cause tht problem
+Juan M “muchoSneakers” Davila on these older Fords I would replace the distributor first...In all my years on these old Fords I have only seen 2 bad PCM's
Okay, finally fixed my issue. My truck was kicking/stalling, when I accelerated above or around 30mph and gave it more gas it would stall as if no power is there but it wasn't the power that was going away it was the gas delivery to the injectors i'm thinking. The TPS was bad, the truck gave me no engine light nor any codes. I disconnected the tps and ran the truck, all power was there then connected the tps back and the issues came back. I don't think the tps replacement will fix the jerking issue when gears change, i think that issue has to do with the solenoid pack in the transmission, bad 1-2 and 3-4 springs.
Look people. I have a 91 f150. 302 crate engine. Happens b4 I got this truck. But this truck will work fine but finally it would fry the igition module/ecu. The person who had this truck b4 me LoL had money he have me plenty of computers with this truck lmao... I'm broke..... This truck went through all 5 of them 3 ordered specifically for the truck... LoL he said "spares".... No kidding... Vin: matched. The smog unit is pulled off could this be the problem... Any help... I'm out of idea's man love the truck, but I about need to cut my losses Getting expensive fast... Oh and one way I know if it's the igition module or the ecu/ brain box, is that ig module... Fuel pumps work... Ecu or the brain box.... Fuel pumps don't work. Won't prime... Hints No start
I just replaced both of my fuel pumps in my 91 f250, ran fine for a few miles, then shut off while drivin and wont start, it will crank and crank, is this what your truck did? Thanks
maestro me interesa saber el problema que tiene el distribuidor 91 for f 150 pero podría traducirlo al español perdón por la ignorancia soy del estado de México tengo una camioneta con el problema de arranque seria mucho pedirle de antemano mil gracias espero me conteste saludos
I have a 1995 ford bronco that dies when I put it in gear I replace iac,throttle position sensor pretty much all the sensor except the pick up coil.it also has a new pick up coil and egr. Any ideas???
Crazy it was 10 years ago and it's still the only video on the subject. Everything is new on my old 79 302 exept for the pickup coil. Ran great until she caught on fire and everything got pretty melty including the distributor a little bit. I thought it would be ok but apparently not.
@@gyfyasdugcuxjftsdvfb even crazier is just 2 months ago I had a customer show up with a 1992 F150 with a 302 had the same problem... I showed him my video / this video... and we changed it together and guess what..? It worked.... We bought a new Distributor from AutoZone... took like 10 minutes to install.
![ค้าง (STILL) - GEMINI [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ftxx3hk5vkU/mqdefault.jpg)
My hood to cowl seal on my hood is bad and water is leaking on to my Coil and TAB and TAD solenoid, so if you are having problems with the coil a hood leak could cause it. It started running rough so I open the hood to check for problem in a rain storm, is how I found the leak. If your distributor keeps having problems I recommend changing the whole distributor, I had the same problem until I changed it. I was buy modules and pickups every 6 months, but since changing it, I've had no problems in 10 plus years. Besides if either one of them goes out the truck won't run at all. Usually when it starts running rough it's usually the EGR or a vacuum problem. Need to occasionally clean intake the with carb/intake cleaner.
my 1988 f250 5.8L use to burn up the ignition module about one every 1 to 2 years. got sick of it so i made the wiring harness and went to salvage yard and got a heat sink bracket like the 92-96 have on the finder. so i moved the module to the fender been running the same module for 5 years with no issue. there is a guy on here in you tube land that shows you how to make the wire harness. but the pick up coil i had to replace 2 times in about 7 years. just go to auto zone and get the whole distributor. it has life time warranty and its like $77.99 in my area. that pick up coil will have you chasing gremlins under that hood for days i tell ya
Thanks, my 88 5.0l was losing power horribly going up hills and getting worse fast. Advance told me a pickup coil wasn't available so I had to do a whole distributer but it worked out as it came with cap, rotor and ignition module for around 90 bucks. Runs like a champ now,
You're right ,the PICKUP coil can sometimes be the culprit, unfortunately YOU TUBE doesn't distinguish very well between a PICKUP coil and an IGNITION coil. THANKS!
A big thank you. So many videos pointing to similar symptoms and more intuitive solutions. Mine ran pretty good, but for years now... occasionally missing, occasionally stalling... then starting again 15 min later. It seemed worse when really humid. I did all the cheaper things too (plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, coil, icm)... each thing I'd replace and no improvement. The distributor kinda seemed unlikely, but... after watching this I bought a new one. Considering 190K miles and wear on the distributor... and the work of changing the pick up coil, it seemed reasonable just to buy a new one. It runs perfectly now.
I'm glad I could help out man
Vacuum lines on these trucks are notorious too. I'm getting ready to go through mine, I have a 91 F150 5.0 and it's having similar symptoms.
A Actron CP9690 code tester can show a code for the pickup coil. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions test, solenoid and relay test, oil light reset, check engine light reset, transmission codes, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it. Replace the distributor to correct this problem. You need a special tool to replace the pick-up coil. Get a oil pump primer shaft from a parts store or an old distributor with the gear removed to line up the oil pump to the distributor. It'll give a code about PIP sensor. It'll be a memory code.
91 Ford F150 4.9L strait 6 trouble starting. Sat for a year in barn. Put new interstate battery in, plenty of power! Last time I worked on it and started it, it needed new fuel filter. I was told the fuel pressure sensor was changed, thought the fuel pumps were going bad or weak. It started recently after Gum out and fresh gas, and spray starter fluid, had to hold foot on gas for a while to keep it from dying. Drove it, didn't act up for 10 miles 60 mph to the auto repair place, but now it won't start for them. I need it inspected, so I can drive it legally to get real professional help. What about the Fuel Pump Driver Moduel? I will tell them to check the coil. I replaced the silinoid myself, and the starter is lifetime warrenty. I don't think it's the computer. I have to tell this guy what to do, he doesn't know how to diagnose.
I know this an old post for people that are watching it now check the ECM.
open it up look inside at the three capacitors if they're melted that's your problem
I had the same problem with my 93 f150 351w. Changed all the basic stuff chasing the problem like the fuel filter, gas treatment, plugs, wires, ignition module, cap and rotor. Nothing changed still ran like crap. it was driving me crazy that I couldn't figure it out. I ended up replacing the whole distributor cause that module in the distributor came apart and died leaving me stranded. That's what fixed it for me. it was that module in the distributor going bad.
CW Moore do u have one?
CW Mo
Do you have condenser installation video? !
Best to replace the entire distributor rather than part, usually it all wears out together and the time it'll save is worth it
Get a Acton CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor test, transmission codes, ABS, SRS, and MORE! Get 4 aaa batteries for under the rear cover. It's well-lit! It's updatable with a USB cable from EBAY. Replace the distributor and NOT the pickup coil. The code tester will give a code about PIP sensor. It'll probably be a memory code. Disconnect the positive battery cable for 15 minutes to reset the computer and test drive the truck. Then recheck codes.
That was my problem. Won’t even turn over but replace it and worked great
Wrap black electrical tape around the coil wire.. I did.. Helped some. I've replaced almost everything and it still done it. Got bad at one point. Tape was my best result so far. almost a 90% loss. And back to normal
These trucks have way to many sensors. Its been a thron in my side, ut man i love the 302 and 351w and 300i6. Best motors ever made.
yes, you have to pull the distributor to change pickups and remove gear from the bottom, it may require some heat to get it off.
THATS where that little bugger is, i was looking at the crank pulley and fly wheel like WTF IS IT! xD
I have a 1996 Ford F150. Where the hood meets the firewall there supposed to be a gutter to keep the water off of the ignition coil. Over time it gets brittle and the metal no longer stops the water. Your ignition coil overtime gets Rusty looking and then after that it quits working. I can't tell you how many ignition coils I have had to buy because of this particular problem.
There's nothing worse than an intermittent problem. It'll drive you nuts and into the poor house.
just for info, I have an 89 f150 302 4X4 and was able to change TFI by turning the distributor around to the front. to get to the bottom bolt I had to cut the removal tool so it only had about 1/2 in. of where the wrench goes left. hope this helps someone
did you try to change the plug of the module , cause on my truck was doing the same thing and i try to bent 4 connectors in the plug to the module an i didnt have any probleme after that
It would start jerking going down the road....then cut off not so much loss of power
Travis this is Phillip again lol we talked to each other about 2 months ago LOL well A LOT has gone on 1/2 gear went out...
The worst part is that I couldn't get one... For a while 🤬🤔🤔🤔🤔🤯 emojis said it. I got to do something cause my only truck. So I took the part out prepped it and I started to welding it up 🤔🤔🤔👁️👁️👁️👁️👁️👁️👁️🤯 and I was surprised when I finished it it took 🌑🌒🌓🌔🌕🌖🌗🌘🌙🌑🌒🌓🌔🌕🕛🕜🕟🕡🕘🕥🕦🕛 I miced it test fit it and wow. It feels good cause the 1/2 shift is so crispy and 3/4 5/R is sloppy as hell
I'm gonna send a part 2 of this cause I have a revelation...
Fuel injectors had the same exact problem rebuilt the motor bigger cam rebuilt it done it replaced the injectors runs like a top now
My 88 F150 did the same thing replaced all the same parts hundreds of dollars later yep pick up cool.
dude it took me ever to find the problem
Travis Gill took me 2 1/2 years b4 I even heard that a pick-up coil existed in my truck.
Travis Gill I bought the ignition coil twice I bought the computer brain thing on the side of the distributor 3 times I bought the throttle positioning sensor twice. I explain my problem I was having the two dozen certified mechanics not one of them ever mentioned the pickup coil the only way I found out it was the pickup coil was watching TH-cam and a random video I've watched was basically like this video here had mentioned the pickup cool which was the only thing I hadn't changed
Mines not running at all...parled it at a buddys house one night and got in ot to leave few hours later nothing checked fuel fire everuthing...2 distributors later i found out it might be the ecm....im so aggravated with the truck...
There is a code for the stator. If the engine jerks like somebody is switching the engine on and off it's the stator. Replace the distributor.
My truck had no codes showing up
My truck is doing the same thing I changed plugs wires coil ignition coil that is and it feels like somebody just shuts it off on how late it runs better but in town driving I can barely get up a hill with all the jerking and bucking so I'm have to look at the distributor assembly cuz I'm about ready to pull my hair out if I had any..lol
Also I have no codes showing up either
ahhh.lol.I didn't mess the plate up. I just wanted a video on how to replace the pick up coil. it's cool bro. I hope your truck is all good now
Fuel. pressure regulator
Nope it was replaced
@@BigTravGill Did you try if you didn't already check your ground and connectors?
For corrosion And
Loose wires or Broken wires because you need certain voltage in order for everything to work properly. Because I had a nineteen ninety bronco five point oh, that was going through the same issues, but it was usually the known suspects Relay , And start Selenoid. That's what my experience was. But for it's and giggles. What would it hurt to check the wires the ground?
It's tedious. But it could be as simple as a connector that needs to be cleaned or replaced. But the other thing about these vehicles is that they do not I repeat. Do not like setting around something always goes wrong.
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI
I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks. ??
Hello, so you had a rough idel and it would jerk and had a lose of power.
I have a 86 bronco truck starts fine once it is warm and I do stop and go in the city it will stall out let it cool off for a while then it will start again but stall out again once it is warm back and forth but if I drive on the interstate no problem till I get off of it then it will stall out and have to cool before it will start could it be the pick up coil changed everything else already not the pickup coil though
could be the module in the distributor overheating ..
It is the switch under the dash enersue with the red button for reset when you hit a bad
bump or when you get hit in the ass end BAM That's why it's jerks and stalls What do I know BEEN .MAN
Charles Been re
Charles Been GT
Did changing the pick up coil fix the issue? I have a 1990 F150 with the 4.9 L6, does the same thing. Stutters, jerks, shakes and it doesnt smooth when accelerating. Just ordered new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Should I start trying to find a pick up coil next?
yes yes and yes.....I wasted more money on cap rotor, plugs...fuel filter....even a coil....it is a common problem with these trucks but for some reason not big on youtube
Travis Gill The ignition module on the distributor is most famous....but if that's not it....pick up coil...
Mine will run fine but under load or accelerating, it acts as if its hitting red line. just bounces around 2500rpm. Is this something that will cause that to happen?
Did you have a check engine light? My dad's 91 f150 is running rough - idle ups and down and light comes on. Smells like it is running rich too.
I just recently had similar symptoms with my 1990 E350 5.8. Checked my coil even tried a brand new one because last owner said he replaced that and it started up again. Plugs and wires were old as hell so I thought may be they burned out the new one prematurely. Going to check into distributor coil and icm now. The van is almost 3 decades old and I have no clue if this distributor has been replaced ever.
Many people look over / miss the pick up coil...Hell I did as well...hope it fixes your problem
The odd thing is it has randomly shut off just a couple times on me since I got it and It happened so little and far apart I never looked into it until a couple weeks ago I fixed a coolent hose leak that broke at the connector and had to flush out the system because it lost so much coolent and I just replaced it all with new coolent. Old coolent was super dirty. Only after that did it randomly shut off a couple times while testing the new coolent and popping bubbles. Then first drive up a hill with it she cut off and wouldn't start until the next morning. Drove it home and it it cut out right in the driveway again.started first thing in the morning for next 2 days but would only run for about 15 min.
Now she won't start at all with all new plugs wires and coil still no spark.
Could overheating have cause those parts to finally go bad ?
My truck shown here in the video was doing the same thing at times..Sometimes when driving it would just shut off and crank right back up..other times it had to sit for a few hours.
runs fine now
How you doing I replace the whole assembly distributor cap the whole unit complete and it's still doing the same thing what could it be my truck drives and sometimes loses power it has Estates sometimes it shuts off
A code tester will give a code about the pick up coil. It'll say PIP sensor. Get a Actron CP9690. Replace the whole distributor.
I found these Ford's must throw a 1 inch blue spark or won't start.TFI pick up coils modules get weak alot. Fool people who think small spark is ok.
MAP sensor go bad also.
5.0 good motors.
Did it fix your problem my van does the same thing so I bought a distributor and it steel doing it not as often so might be the ecu
mine does all those things but when i first got the truck i replaced all the things on the throttle body and now its about 2 years you think its the parts i replaced or the distributor
Travis gil .. was the truck acting up while warm and under load? Mine is acting up under load but not while in park.
What did find to fix your problem
I’m buying a 1984 f150 Saturday with this motor, it doesn’t run but the guy said he was driving and it backfired and he couldn’t get it started again, would this be possibly the problem?
Not sure on that... that sound's like it might of jumped time..? Mine would run GREAT.... cut off when hot then not start backup until cold
@@BigTravGill would that be a big problem to fix?
@@BigTravGill do you think it would be a bad work out distributor or would I need to be tearing into it to replace the timing gear?
@@dippinauto56 it can be on these older trucks.... now I'm not saying that's what happened with out seeing it but be careful. Its getting older to get parts for these here were I live so it is what it is
@@dippinauto56 I have no clue man.... it could be the timing chain..? its to hard to say on here without seeing it
1990 Ford f 150 6 cylinders exentiom modular
Have a 1990 F-150 302 love my mine runs great
I have a 90 ford f150 and was wondering how did you get the whole distributor out? I cant budge it, its impossible to pull it out. I need to change out the pickup coil and find anywhere in detail that shows how to remove.
How did you get yours loose mine is totaly frozen as well. Just pulling my hair out. I feel helpless.
thats a common problem pick up coil cuts off ground to the coil
So I have a 1995 ford bronco that start and idle good but dies when you put it into gear but it will roll a little but before dying
I have same problem was it your pickup coil ?
I have a question for all about my 85 4.9
whats up
@@BigTravGill so my truck ran alright drove it for 2 years or so. Driving it two weeks ago the pin holding gear on distributor went out...it took me some searching but found that and pulled it ordered new one but guy said he couldnt find for 85 had to look up 87 lol anyways when I set on compression stroke with crank marker at 0 and rotor lined up with number 1 on dist housing unhooked spout started truck and set timing to 10 btdc with timing light. First try I didn't turn my truck off i hooked spout back up while running. I have tried and tried it will idle and rev up sounds awesome in neutral but when you put in gear and go to move it definitely not right.
Do you have email where I can maybe explain more?
my b2200 will run for most of the day then it will turn off like a switch and and wont start again. and then the very next day it will start again, and repeat the same process. could that be a bad ignition coil? i am completely stumped. PLEASE HELP!
It could be...do you have an ignition module on that truck because I would check that first
no it doesn't have an ignition module, it's a bit to old for one. i have had to replace those before. there is no computer or anything like that. it's a pretty straight forward and simple truck. which surprises me that i can't figure it out. i know it's going to end up being something really simple. then i can kick myself.
my 94 f150 is doing the same thing. Did you find out what the problem is?
when timing my f250 5.0, should the crank be on 0° tdc or 10° btdc?, I have it on 0° tdc yet the mark isn't where it should be with the timing light
10° btdc. If you set it at 0° the then spark fires with the piston at the very top of the stroke and the pressure from the ignition will not be complete enough to push the piston down. With it a 10° btdc then yes the initial ignition will be before the piston reaches the top of its stroke and be fully engulfed by the time the piston begins to move down the stroke giving a better detonation and more complete burn and use of the energy. If you're at 0 it'll run like garbage, no power, possibly popping through the intake under a load.
i'm having similar issues now, but truck wont start now, i still have spark though, did u have spark when it wouldnt start?
My truck did not have spark....1st how good is your spark at the end of the wires...?...if its weak it will not run..plugs will just foul out
the spark seems pretty good, nice blue glow, plugs look clean, not fouled, i'm about to do a compression test though, and hit it with my timing light, it may have jumped timing. i get a light pop every now and then when cranking, starter fluid doesnt help either...
Travis Gill no spark is likely ignition control module. There built cheaply, get hot and burn up. I go through one every summer.
My 94 f150 turns over and but womt crank. It has fuel, and spark.. it was running fine and it just cutt off goimg down the highway. Could pickup coil be bad?
Dosemt have spark *^
when you changed the TFI did you have to remove distributor or could you just spin it around to the front?
I had to remove it bud
I have similar issue. Even changed the whole distributor.. still nothing
Try the fuel pump or ignition module
Can this cause the truck to turn off when putting it in gear like drive or reverse???
It can but normally they just act up when hot
@@BigTravGill my truck runs great when I first started up and it's cold when it's in the closed loop but once it warms up and the loop opens it runs like crap ...so I'm thinking it might just be that pickup coil and distributor...it's the only thing I haven't looked at yet thanks for the info guys .....these words are kind of tricky sometimes
I have the same issue on my truck. Can you please post what fixed your stalling issue?
Mine backfires at half throttle and beyond and surges really badly, I’ve replaced a lot of things and even put new heads on the truck new plugs new distributor cap, I’m completely lost, I’ve put new fuel filters everything and it surges and backfires, any ideas?
Chris Poindexter did u fix it
I put just about 2k in parts and it has no pick up at all thought it was a fuel problem until I changed everything but im going to change the distributor hopefully it solves my issue
@@craineytv5787 stabbed a new distributor in it, and it solved the issue, no problems since since then, but I also put in a new ignition coil too
@@craineytv5787 I ended up doing a head swap on mine recently, made a world of difference but the distributor was my entire problem, but since it backfired and had issues so long it bunrt up a few valves so be careful of it
Chris Poindexter yeah my valves tapping now think ima change em oil might try the oil first but everyone saying it’s the fuel filter gonna try it wednesday I installed a new distributor still doing it I haven’t change the fuel filter r computer only two things I haven’t changed tht can cause tht problem
That's the problem the thing in the distributor
Problem i'm having, thinking its distributor or something in electrical at high rpm it'll want to shut off.
+Juan M “muchoSneakers” Davila on these older Fords I would replace the distributor first...In all my years on these old Fords I have only seen 2 bad PCM's
Also never forget the ignition control module..sometimes on the distributor others on the driver side fender
well wasnt distributor lol I will try the module now
well nothing lol new distributor and coil same damn issue. spark plugs and wires are good, thinking its throttle sensor but i get no engine light.
Okay, finally fixed my issue. My truck was kicking/stalling, when I accelerated above or around 30mph and gave it more gas it would stall as if no power is there but it wasn't the power that was going away it was the gas delivery to the injectors i'm thinking.
The TPS was bad, the truck gave me no engine light nor any codes. I disconnected the tps and ran the truck, all power was there then connected the tps back and the issues came back. I don't think the tps replacement will fix the jerking issue when gears change, i think that issue has to do with the solenoid pack in the transmission, bad 1-2 and 3-4 springs.
Look people. I have a 91 f150. 302 crate engine. Happens b4 I got this truck.
But this truck will work fine but finally it would fry the igition module/ecu. The person who had this truck b4 me LoL had money he have me plenty of computers with this truck lmao...
I'm broke..... This truck went through all 5 of them 3 ordered specifically for the truck... LoL he said "spares".... No kidding...
Vin: matched.
The smog unit is pulled off could this be the problem...
Any help... I'm out of idea's man love the truck, but I about need to cut my losses
Getting expensive fast...
Oh and one way I know if it's the igition module or the ecu/ brain box, is that ig module... Fuel pumps work...
Ecu or the brain box.... Fuel pumps don't work.
Won't prime...
Hints
No start
where's the condenser video that I really,REALLY need
no rotor in the cap was broken
I just replaced both of my fuel pumps in my 91 f250, ran fine for a few miles, then shut off while drivin and wont start, it will crank and crank, is this what your truck did? Thanks
Yes that is what it did
Sublimenade ignition control module is likely what you need. If your truck cranks and cranks and no fire that's it!
maestro me interesa saber el problema que tiene el distribuidor 91 for f 150 pero podría traducirlo al español perdón por la ignorancia soy del estado de México tengo una camioneta con el problema de arranque seria mucho pedirle de antemano mil gracias espero me conteste saludos
???
Crappy design. European Opels use the same ignition system and they fail like mad.
✌🏽
Any ideas???
??...I cant see the question
I have a 1995 ford bronco that dies when I put it in gear I replace iac,throttle position sensor pretty much all the sensor except the pick up coil.it also has a new pick up coil and egr. Any ideas???
@@tazmontoya3203 My god that should of done it...checked for vacuum leaks...??
Check them and fixed any vacuum leaks
whats it idling at when in park..?
bla bla bla ........whats the answer!
the pickup coil was bad
@James Maloy I hope this helps you out
Hey its my ....lol bad
A
Thank you so much for this
Man I made this video almost 10 years ago and I was still learning... its cool to see it still helping people
Crazy it was 10 years ago and it's still the only video on the subject. Everything is new on my old 79 302 exept for the pickup coil. Ran great until she caught on fire and everything got pretty melty including the distributor a little bit. I thought it would be ok but apparently not.
@@gyfyasdugcuxjftsdvfb even crazier is just 2 months ago I had a customer show up with a 1992 F150 with a 302 had the same problem... I showed him my video / this video... and we changed it together and guess what..? It worked.... We bought a new Distributor from AutoZone... took like 10 minutes to install.