I have a 70s Gretsch kit which I refurbished many years now. I really enjoyed your video and it taught me a lot about modifying shells. I don’t have the equipment or expertise to attempt what you have done but many thanks for showing us how to do the job properly.
Yeah, don’t want to promote myself as an authority on it, but I’ve been doing mods like this for a long time, and started with beginner shells before ever stepping up to a drum like this.
Great job! A few years ago I did the same with a DW performance kick drum. It was 18 x 22 I'm also a fan of more traditional depths so I went with 14 depth. It's sooooo much better now!
Just for something different, when I was building my 22" bass drum for my gigging kit (just a Keller Maple shell kit) I went with a 15" depth. I really like the way it sounds. It lengthens the note of the kick just a bit, but it's still nice and punchy.
20x20 for general purpose, and 16x16 for jazz/acoustic/small rooms. Square dimensions on toms too. 20x20 is my ideal bass drum. I think with even minimal tuning and dampening, this gives me the fullest tone. More bass drum than kick drum.
Great job, I have the same bass drum in lacquer finish and I was planning on doing the same, which is how I found this video. The only thing I consider to do differently is actually trying to cut it in a way where I would leave the second row of lug holes as the first one for the new lugs and just drill 10 new holes, this way it would be a bit deeper than 14 inches but I wouldn't have to close 10 holes with inserts (if that makes sense).
When I was a younger drummer I totally agreed with the familiarly breeds skills style of learning…I could have mad chops on my home kit but could sit on a different sized kit on a stage but setup in the same positioning on the rug..and feel completely alien...and I would play sloppy on the stage kit too which was frustrating. So I wish my drum teacher mixed it up on me and taught me lessons on different kits or even like entire lessons on cajons or Latin kits could have made me a much better player, faster
Excellent video. You sir, are a true craftsman. I switched from larger depth bass drums years ago, not because I didn’t like the sound… it was out of convenience. Getting those 18” depth drums in and out of a small car, let alone on and off a stage is a pain! Prefer 14” and would love to get a Ludwig Jazzette in a 18”x12” configuration.
After playing and listening to 18" deep ( So Called Power ) bass drums I'm cutting my Star Classic Birch down to 14". I have a 16" BD as well but I'll keep that the same for my left foot.
Dude! You have major huevos for cutting down a perfectly good drum. It’s clear you have great skills and are really careful, but still… not sure I would have the intestinal fortitude to tackle something like this. Nice job!
For the edge trimming of the wrap. Make a wood block jig that is the height of the trim and screw your razor blade to the top of that wood block at an angle. Now just place the drum on the table edge down and spin your drum along the blade it works perfectly and quickly.
Mike, I wAs so excited to see that you posted another new video, as I enjoy what you do very much. I can’t even begin to imagine the anxiety I would feel as I was about to cut into a nice drum, as I am not familiar with the use of power tools, but you, my friend did a great job. Thank you again for posting your basement diy projects.
@@malonedrum bass drum is the only drum with such a wacky dimension. That’s why I like the 24x14 The ratio is much more similar to the other ratios of drums
@@TessaAnderson Just what you're used to visually I think, but kicks are typically more shallow by ratio I think. That's why those 20 x 20 kicks look so ridiculous
I’m actually a huge fan of 22x14 kick drums! This is so cool! I have an early/mid 80s TAMA Swingstar kit and I totally love the sound I get from the shallow yet big kick drum.. especially with Evans EMAD and REMAD heads Awesome video! Keep rocking!😎🔥👍👌✌️🤘
I really admire your confidence and skills in this video, actually I do in all of your videos to be honest. I'm expecting a Drum craft set to arrive soon, it's a 7 piece set-up with a 22x20" kick, so as you probably already know, with my ear being pretty similar to your own as far as kick drums should sound, is Way too deep! I'm going to take four inches off making it a 22x16", again, like yourself, I prefer the deep and more controlled sound, the shell construction on my new set is pretty darn solid so I'm trusting this process to go smoothly, I've never done this before but I Will be measuring and setting out quite a lot before actually committing to final cutting stage, thanks again Mike, again very inspirational channel. 🙏👍
@@malonedrum thank you, I do have a lot of labouring building work experience to use plus my older brother is a master builder, he has all of the necessary tools and will probably like to oversee what exactly I'm going to be doing.
Yeah I'm with you on 14" depth. It's much easier for me to play no matter the diameter of the drum, more responsive, better tone, punchier. I have an 18" x 22" DW Performance bass drum and I really want to make it a 14" x 22" but I lack your skills (not to mention the tools) for sure. Nicely done on that Gretsch!
Yeah, this was a daring project, but your patience and cautious carpentry style worked in your favor. Great job. I love my Renown 22" kick (marine pearl), but it IS a beast to cart to gigs. My 18" Catalina Club (yellow satin flame) is so much easier. I'd love to find a 20" for the Renown kit to split the difference, but the 22" sounds so freakin' good. Maybe one day if I get lucky.
Nice video Mike. A little quick moving for my little brain, but, I was able to pause and rewind a few times. Great job on that bass drum. I just re-furbed a Ludwig Rocker set, and my drumshop here locally cut down the 2 small toms for me, to traditional 8 X 12 and 9 X 13 sizes. I have a couple of 14 X 22 bass drums, and a couple of 16 X 22's. I love both sizes, they both can sound great. I do a lot of rock cover jobs, so the 16 depth works better for those jobs, but they take a lot more space in the car! I do prefer the 14's overall. They also take up less precious stage space. I'm tall, and I'm not as far into the wall behind me with a 14. Thanks so much, I subscribed! Oh, I forgot to mention that I left 6 holes on the bottom of the toms, because it was a budget build, not a collectable drumset, they were covered by the wrap, but you can see them through the reso heads! I don't care at all, no one notices, and I'm just going to play them anyway. They sound and look great!
Nice work. I have a Pearl Reference Pure matte black 22x18, but I think I will end up buying a new 22x18 - apparently I don’t have the guts to do what you did with it 😆
I prefer 14" depth too, and I've cut one deep kick down (not for me but for someone who paid me to) but I can't help but wonder if this is the modern drum version of when everyone in the 70s was routing their pre-CBS Fenders for humbuckers.
Hey Mike another great video I do a lot of projects myself but I haven’t got the nerve up to do bearing edges with a router for one I don’t have a router table I do have a hand router which I’ve used on a bunch of other projects just not the drum can you use a hand router all the other projects I’ve done depending on thickness of the shell I’ve used a file and sander I know I should just like you said get a crappy drum and try but I’ve always seen guys do it on a table rarely hand router
You fixed the one thing that bothers me about the Renown! Gretsch really needs to offer them in traditional depths, outside of that Sweetwater exclusive kit. Also... why is the Catalina Club available with 18, 20 and 24 sizes all in 14 deep, but no 22... Come on Gretsch!
I also agree with your actions and opinion. These days, choosing a drum has become very difficult. My favorite makers , colors, sizes and models don't always match. I also prefer a 14-inch basic depth bass drum. Even they are 26",24",22",20 and 18". It's sound wave reverse velocity issue. It feels like there are very few lineups for each diameter, every drum makers. Drum manufacturers use "open sound" to promote. However as an excessive sustain in actual general use, the live house PA engineers almost order to a drummer need muffling will be requested. This is a contradiction. At the very least, I think each manufacturer should maintain a lineup of traditional sizes. Not all drummers play in arenas.
I wish people like you lived around me, I don't have any locals who do this as far as I know 😢. I'm only 5'6 so I like a small compact kit but I have 22x18 kicks with the exception of an old Japanese 20in which doesn't sound as good as my 22in's. I wouldn't mind having someone to cut down one of my 2 22in x18in to 14in depth because I heard you get a nice punch and for me it would make my kit tighter in position
I'm not sure where you are, but I would almost guarantee there is somebody within reason who does this sot of work. It's just a matter of finding them.
@@1thess523 I know there are some drum shops across the state, but I understand Texas is huge as well. I'd reach out to some of the shops for recommendations if they won't do the work themselves.
I can assure you (in my view at least) that hoop selection makes a huge difference. Not sure if I’ll do a video on it, but I love how die cast tightens up the sound of a drum, but sometimes a triple flanged hoop can really open up the sound. It’s situational, and a personal preference for sound, not just price/quality.
@malonedrum I have a maple Tama Starclassic snare and a Ludwig acrolite. I prefer thick heads n die cast on the SC to give it that deep tone but prefer thinner heads n triple flange on the Acrolite to give it a louder, metallic sound.
@malonedrum Sorry. I forgot to mention that I enjoy your videos. Love watching restorational videos best. Seeing drums brought back to life is amazing and inspirational.
Great work! I am currently in the midst of doing this to my bass drums. I’m as far as getting ready to recut the bearing edges. I’m curious as to what bit you used to cut yours?
That is a tricky one. You wouldn’t want to remove a little from each side as I don’t think that would work with the renown, but you’d most likely want to cut the batter side, not reso side. That way you don’t redrill spurs.
Mike: would a lacquer finish have prevented the need to plug those holes? It sounds like the spacing caused by the wrap finish produced the problem of needing to plug those former lug holes.
No, that wouldn't really be a factor. The reason I have to use plugs is because I chose to make the drum exactly 14" deep, and that cause me to have one of the two holes from previous lugs still on the depth of the shell.
@@dogmart I don't know the specs on it, but if you take a tape measure and measure from the bearing edge 4", if that clear's past any previous holes, then you should be good to go. Just also account for things like floor tom legs, vent holes, and any other holes drilled on the shell.
So you said you glued in dowels to fill those holes, then cut them to be flush with the shell, then you removed them to fit bigger dowels in the holes. How did you remove the old dowels if they were already glued in and flush cut?
Great video, thx! I am curious why you didn’t just cut the shell back another half inch or so to get past those last holes all together and avoid the whole Dowell process? At this point I’m not sure there would be much difference between a 14 inch depth and a 13 inch depth or 13 1/2 (whatever it would be).
If I would have cleared it, it would have been 13 or maybe 12.75 after blade width, so I just figured I’d take the opportunity to get it how I wanted, and dowel up the holes.
I've cut down a Yamaha stage custom in the same size and it was tricky to do that size with placement of vent hole and lugs, but you could maybe do 13"?
Way too far back for me to remember exactly, but I've learned to just buy a variety of close sizes as it's not always what you'd think. You can get dowels from a small hardware store or hobby store in a variety of sizes (down to 1/32 of an inch difference) and have a few close sizes on hand to find the right fit.
I hate 18” depth bass drums as well but for me 16” depth is the sweet spot between the boom of an 18” and the quick punch of a 14”. I’m too set up for cutting and edging. I noticed that you skipped some steps to flatten your edge first before cutting the edge. I also would’ve taken some off from both ends and utilize the rear lug holes so I wouldn’t have to plug holes. Also should you ever sell this kit those plugged holes is going to seriously devalue the kit. That 1300 bass drum is now worth a few hundred.
Hey Shawn, thanks for engaging with my video. I appreciate you offering your opinion here in the comments, and I think your thoughts are valid. I agree that a 16" is a nice middle ground (both sonically, and literally) between 18" and 14" depth bass drum. I personally prefer the traditional size of 14" depth on all kicks, but to each their own, and maybe for the style of music you play a 16" depth better suits your needs. Your point on flattening the edge is totally fair. I did reference the fresh edge on my flattest surface I have available to me in my shop, but I'm not sure in all of the time lapse footage if that is really evident in this video. So my amateur directing skills may have led you to the conclusion I didn't check or sand after cutting on a flat surface. Although your idea of cutting from both edges, and utilizing one of the two pre-existing holes seems like an obvious choice, for many drums the measurement between the bearing edge, and first hole, and then the distance between the two lug holes wouldn't allow you to 1) create enough space from the new bearing edge and the fist hole for the head to seat over the shell and tighten, or 2) potentially be out of alignment with the spacing to match factory specs in terms of distance/tension rod length/etc. Also, I always recommend removing shell material from one to side to avoid not only cutting two new edges, but potentially disrupting the positioning of other hardware on the shell like tom post brackets or spurs. So my standard approach would be a batter side trim only if possible. It seems like you have a strong distaste for plugging holes, and I can understand the purity of the shell and visual distraction not being worth it for you, but luckily in this specific case (not necessarily for all), the holes I plugged are close enough to the bearing edge that the hoop collar covers it, and avoids it being a visual distraction. Now, I know that still leaves the argument of holes plugged maybe being a purity issue, but when I've consulted with professional builders and drum shops that do these sorts of alterations, plugs are sometimes the best or only option. Again, it's fair to not endorse that option if it works better for you situation. Lastly, of course the value of this drum is no longer $1,300. For one, it's used, so that would immediately reduce the value, and two, it has been altered, so I would suspect, outside of a specific buyer seeking this size drum (which I think there's a large market for) that's another knock. I'm not sure if you heard the part of me getting this drum for free, but that obviously factored into my comfort to do this alteration as I did. If I were to sell it, I think it still has a fair market used value on point with similar drums, but as you probably gathered in the video, I did this specifically to suit my needs, not as a flip project. I would absolutely love to see you process and set up in a video on your channel, so if you take the time to do one, please link it below and I'll make sure to watch it.
@@malonedrum thanks for taking the time write all of that, it wasn’t necessary but I appreciate it. I feel like you thought I was “hating” on your video, not really... I’m a drum builder I build my own kits and was a bit confused with some of your choices. I would have to have the same drum in front of me to figure out my final plan to chop it so I give you that... I think if I had to use 22x13 or 22x15 to avoid plugging holes I definitely would, an inch wouldn’t make that big of a difference in fact my vintage slingerland 22x14 kick I once owned was actually 22x13, I guess they figured it was close enough and built you couldn’t really tell. But yes I avoid plugging holes at all cost it’s an absolute last resort for me. I’m also a bit of a perfectionist I’m a screen printer by trade so I have to be, flaws even those unseen really bother me because I know it’s there. I would’ve sold my kit and bought the sizes I wanted if plugging holes was the only option. As far as truing edges prior to cutting the edge I secure sand paper to a slab of granite called a surface plate and sand the edge flat then check my edge with the light inside the drum technique and then cutting my edge and rechecking for flatness with the light on the surface plate method as seen on one of the DW factory tours videos. I do this until my drum is absolutely perfect, you know how easy a drum is tune up when it’s absolutely perfect? It’s beautiful!!! I even check and recut edges on new drums if they’re not right.
Ha, yes. I actually made a dedicated video about it, so as you dig through the archives I’m sure you’ll find it. My opinion is that it’s probably the same as any other sealant you could use for fresh cut edges, but it’s a handy tool to help seal the edge and fill in slight voids
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As someone who is absolutely sick of 18" deep kicks, this is refreshing to see.
Well it’d be a lot harder to DIY a kick drum to be deeper
Here here!
Be patient. Before it’s over, all toms and bass drums will be Roto Tom thickness
I CANNOT STAND long kick drums. I approve this idea.
I'm right there with ya!
Yes, I agree. I believe the deeper the kick drum the less power. The shallow the kick drum the more power. Great video by the way !!
I have a 70s Gretsch kit which I refurbished many years now. I really enjoyed your video and it taught me a lot about modifying shells. I don’t have the equipment or expertise to attempt what you have done but many thanks for showing us how to do the job properly.
Yeah, don’t want to promote myself as an authority on it, but I’ve been doing mods like this for a long time, and started with beginner shells before ever stepping up to a drum like this.
This is the best explanation video on cutting down a bass drum.
Glad you think so!
Great job! A few years ago I did the same with a DW performance kick drum. It was 18 x 22 I'm also a fan of more traditional depths so I went with 14 depth. It's sooooo much better now!
Easier to haul around as well!
I just made a comment about the same drum. I really want to cut it down to 14".
Just for something different, when I was building my 22" bass drum for my gigging kit (just a Keller Maple shell kit) I went with a 15" depth. I really like the way it sounds. It lengthens the note of the kick just a bit, but it's still nice and punchy.
I believe Yamaha does that. They offer 17" and 15" depths instead of as much in even numbers.
Well done Mike. You did the right thing going with 14" depth. That size offers the absolute best sound for a kick IMO.
Agreed!
20x20 for general purpose, and 16x16 for jazz/acoustic/small rooms. Square dimensions on toms too. 20x20 is my ideal bass drum. I think with even minimal tuning and dampening, this gives me the fullest tone. More bass drum than kick drum.
I have not found that to be my case at all in playing jazz.
@@malonedrum might just be my preference. You definitely have more experience in that department
@@danhandskillz personal preference is ok too, rock away on your square dimension drums!
Great job, I have the same bass drum in lacquer finish and I was planning on doing the same, which is how I found this video. The only thing I consider to do differently is actually trying to cut it in a way where I would leave the second row of lug holes as the first one for the new lugs and just drill 10 new holes, this way it would be a bit deeper than 14 inches but I wouldn't have to close 10 holes with inserts (if that makes sense).
I didn’t think the distance between front and back holes would give you enough room to have the lugs space appropriately from the new bearing edge.
@@malonedrum Hmmmm, I will have to measure, for now it is just a plan, with a lacquer finish it's more difficult I guess...
I've cut down more than a few of those 18" deep kicks- well done.
Thanks! Making the world a better place.
When I was a younger drummer I totally agreed with the familiarly breeds skills style of learning…I could have mad chops on my home kit but could sit on a different sized kit on a stage but setup in the same positioning on the rug..and feel completely alien...and I would play sloppy on the stage kit too which was frustrating. So I wish my drum teacher mixed it up on me and taught me lessons on different kits or even like entire lessons on cajons or Latin kits could have made me a much better player, faster
I don’t swap it up too much, but my students get the chance to play on different things once in a while
Excellent video. You sir, are a true craftsman. I switched from larger depth bass drums years ago, not because I didn’t like the sound… it was out of convenience. Getting those 18” depth drums in and out of a small car, let alone on and off a stage is a pain! Prefer 14” and would love to get a Ludwig Jazzette in a 18”x12” configuration.
I'm all about the convenience, check out some of my drum kit builds on the channel. I've matched the Jazzette pretty well.
After playing and listening to 18" deep ( So Called Power ) bass drums I'm cutting my Star Classic Birch down to 14". I have a 16" BD as well but I'll keep that the same for my left foot.
Always felt like a shallower drum has more punch.
Dude! You have major huevos for cutting down a perfectly good drum. It’s clear you have great skills and are really careful, but still… not sure I would have the intestinal fortitude to tackle something like this. Nice job!
I do it for the #content
@@malonedrum gotta feed the beast that never fills.
For the edge trimming of the wrap. Make a wood block jig that is the height of the trim and screw your razor blade to the top of that wood block at an angle. Now just place the drum on the table edge down and spin your drum along the blade it works perfectly and quickly.
That’s typically what I do!
Mike, I wAs so excited to see that you posted another new video, as I enjoy what you do very much. I can’t even begin to imagine the anxiety I would feel as I was about to cut into a nice drum, as I am not familiar with the use of power tools, but you, my friend did a great job. Thank you again for posting your basement diy projects.
I appreciate your support and viewership of the channel.
It’s a good size. I’m on a 24 inch and I have an 18.
I used to own the 22x18 from pearl that I loved.
Yeah, I think all the depths are valid, but I feel like the shorter depth creates an easier time getting a punchier tone.
@@malonedrum bass drum is the only drum with such a wacky dimension.
That’s why I like the 24x14
The ratio is much more similar to the other ratios of drums
@@TessaAnderson Just what you're used to visually I think, but kicks are typically more shallow by ratio I think. That's why those 20 x 20 kicks look so ridiculous
I’m actually a huge fan of 22x14 kick drums! This is so cool!
I have an early/mid 80s TAMA Swingstar kit and I totally love the sound I get from the shallow yet big kick drum.. especially with Evans EMAD and REMAD heads
Awesome video! Keep rocking!😎🔥👍👌✌️🤘
Thanks for checking it out!
I really admire your confidence and skills in this video, actually I do in all of your videos to be honest.
I'm expecting a Drum craft set to arrive soon, it's a 7 piece set-up with a 22x20" kick, so as you probably already know, with my ear being pretty similar to your own as far as kick drums should sound, is Way too deep!
I'm going to take four inches off making it a 22x16", again, like yourself, I prefer the deep and more controlled sound, the shell construction on my new set is pretty darn solid so I'm trusting this process to go smoothly, I've never done this before but I Will be measuring and setting out quite a lot before actually committing to final cutting stage, thanks again Mike, again very inspirational channel. 🙏👍
Good luck to you!
@@malonedrum thank you, I do have a lot of labouring building work experience to use plus my older brother is a master builder, he has all of the necessary tools and will probably like to oversee what exactly I'm going to be doing.
tempted to have this done on my Harvey Mason Broadkaster 18x22
That might be one I'd be scared to cut down, but I'd certainly consider it too.
Yeah I'm with you on 14" depth. It's much easier for me to play no matter the diameter of the drum, more responsive, better tone, punchier. I have an 18" x 22" DW Performance bass drum and I really want to make it a 14" x 22" but I lack your skills (not to mention the tools) for sure. Nicely done on that Gretsch!
There’s probably somebody not too far from you with the skills. Or send it off to a drum shop!
yeah man! another terrific mod and well-produced video!
Thanks for checking it out Andrew!
Cover thumbnail looks like he’s making a “Carbon Fiber” bass drum shell.
🤔
I'm about to order another kit with a 16x22 bd. My kast bd was 18x22. I definitely like more punch.
I hope you find that with the new one.
Yeah, this was a daring project, but your patience and cautious carpentry style worked in your favor. Great job. I love my Renown 22" kick (marine pearl), but it IS a beast to cart to gigs. My 18" Catalina Club (yellow satin flame) is so much easier. I'd love to find a 20" for the Renown kit to split the difference, but the 22" sounds so freakin' good. Maybe one day if I get lucky.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video Mike. A little quick moving for my little brain, but, I was able to pause and rewind a few times. Great job on that bass drum. I just re-furbed a Ludwig Rocker set, and my drumshop here locally cut down the 2 small toms for me, to traditional 8 X 12 and 9 X 13 sizes. I have a couple of 14 X 22 bass drums, and a couple of 16 X 22's. I love both sizes, they both can sound great. I do a lot of rock cover jobs, so the 16 depth works better for those jobs, but they take a lot more space in the car! I do prefer the 14's overall. They also take up less precious stage space. I'm tall, and I'm not as far into the wall behind me with a 14. Thanks so much, I subscribed! Oh, I forgot to mention that I left 6 holes on the bottom of the toms, because it was a budget build, not a collectable drumset, they were covered by the wrap, but you can see them through the reso heads! I don't care at all, no one notices, and I'm just going to play them anyway. They sound and look great!
Nice! Sounds like a great set. Sorry for the speed, gotta keep the videos a reasonable length with the time-lapse stuff.
stellar work as always bro
Thanks you!
Nice work. I have a Pearl Reference Pure matte black 22x18, but I think I will end up buying a new 22x18 - apparently I don’t have the guts to do what you did with it 😆
It’s a scary mod
I prefer 14" depth too, and I've cut one deep kick down (not for me but for someone who paid me to) but I can't help but wonder if this is the modern drum version of when everyone in the 70s was routing their pre-CBS Fenders for humbuckers.
I’m not familiar with the routing of humbuckers, but sounds like a thing a lot of people do with deeper kicks
Well done
Appreciate it!
Hey Mike another great video I do a lot of projects myself but I haven’t got the nerve up to do bearing edges with a router for one I don’t have a router table I do have a hand router which I’ve used on a bunch of other projects just not the drum can you use a hand router all the other projects I’ve done depending on thickness of the shell I’ve used a file and sander I know I should just like you said get a crappy drum and try but I’ve always seen guys do it on a table rarely hand router
You fixed the one thing that bothers me about the Renown! Gretsch really needs to offer them in traditional depths, outside of that Sweetwater exclusive kit. Also... why is the Catalina Club available with 18, 20 and 24 sizes all in 14 deep, but no 22... Come on Gretsch!
I know, it bums me out they don't offer this standard, but it is possible to DIY!
Man, great work!
If you love it, it is for sale now! Haha
I also agree with your actions and opinion.
These days, choosing a drum has become very difficult.
My favorite makers , colors, sizes and models don't always match.
I also prefer a 14-inch basic depth bass drum.
Even they are 26",24",22",20 and 18".
It's sound wave reverse velocity issue.
It feels like there are very few lineups for each diameter, every drum makers.
Drum manufacturers use "open sound" to promote.
However as an excessive sustain in actual general use,
the live house PA engineers almost order to a drummer need muffling will be requested.
This is a contradiction.
At the very least, I think each manufacturer should maintain a lineup of traditional sizes.
Not all drummers play in arenas.
Yup.
You should use the part you cut off and turn it into a clock. That’d be pretty awesome..
I like that idea. Still haven't done anything with the cut off, but hope to sooner or later.
I wish people like you lived around me, I don't have any locals who do this as far as I know 😢. I'm only 5'6 so I like a small compact kit but I have 22x18 kicks with the exception of an old Japanese 20in which doesn't sound as good as my 22in's. I wouldn't mind having someone to cut down one of my 2
22in x18in to 14in depth because I heard you get a nice punch and for me it would make my kit tighter in position
I'm not sure where you are, but I would almost guarantee there is somebody within reason who does this sot of work. It's just a matter of finding them.
@@malonedrum San Antonio Texas, my buddy knows a guy who paints but I'm not sure if he cuts shells 🤔
@@1thess523 I know there are some drum shops across the state, but I understand Texas is huge as well. I'd reach out to some of the shops for recommendations if they won't do the work themselves.
@@malonedrum thanks, I didn't think about that 😂
I was wondering if you could do a video comparison of die cast hoops and triple flange as to whether or not this makes a difference.
I can assure you (in my view at least) that hoop selection makes a huge difference. Not sure if I’ll do a video on it, but I love how die cast tightens up the sound of a drum, but sometimes a triple flanged hoop can really open up the sound. It’s situational, and a personal preference for sound, not just price/quality.
@malonedrum I have a maple Tama Starclassic snare and a Ludwig acrolite. I prefer thick heads n die cast on the SC to give it that deep tone but prefer thinner heads n triple flange on the Acrolite to give it a louder, metallic sound.
@malonedrum Sorry. I forgot to mention that I enjoy your videos. Love watching restorational videos best. Seeing drums brought back to life is amazing and inspirational.
Great work! I am currently in the midst of doing this to my bass drums. I’m as far as getting ready to recut the bearing edges. I’m curious as to what bit you used to cut yours?
Round over on the outside, and a 45 degree inside, but I’d recommend buying a 30 degree bit if you want to get a more true Gretsch edge.
Dying to do this to my Renown RN1 22" virgin kick. Might be weird as it's the cherry maple fade and I'll lose a lot of the fade on the reso side.
That is a tricky one. You wouldn’t want to remove a little from each side as I don’t think that would work with the renown, but you’d most likely want to cut the batter side, not reso side. That way you don’t redrill spurs.
@@malonedrum Thank you! I didn't think of that. Probably best to let a pro do this for me.
What a job 🥁😅👍
Thanks
I don't know why it's in fashion to have bass drums be soooo deep. My Round Badge is 22x14 and sounds huge, and even fits through doors!
Couldn't agree with you more!
I blame it on marketing. Somewhere along the way drum companies started pushing 18" depth.
I like 14X22 but had a 14X20 on my kit
I LOVE a 14 x 20, but any drum with 14 depth is where it's at. Or 12"!
What was the angle for the bearing edge?
45 on this one
Mike: would a lacquer finish have prevented the need to plug those holes? It sounds like the spacing caused by the wrap finish produced the problem of needing to plug those former lug holes.
No, that wouldn't really be a factor. The reason I have to use plugs is because I chose to make the drum exactly 14" deep, and that cause me to have one of the two holes from previous lugs still on the depth of the shell.
Do you think I could take a 16x18 Pearl Reference bass drum and cut it down to 12x18 without having to fill lug holes?
@@dogmart I don't know the specs on it, but if you take a tape measure and measure from the bearing edge 4", if that clear's past any previous holes, then you should be good to go. Just also account for things like floor tom legs, vent holes, and any other holes drilled on the shell.
So you said you glued in dowels to fill those holes, then cut them to be flush with the shell, then you removed them to fit bigger dowels in the holes. How did you remove the old dowels if they were already glued in and flush cut?
I'm guessing he drilled out the original dowels.
By that time, I was still able to just push out the old dowels, before they had completely dried.
Great video, thx! I am curious why you didn’t just cut the shell back another half inch or so to get past those last holes all together and avoid the whole Dowell process? At this point I’m not sure there would be much difference between a 14 inch depth and a 13 inch depth or 13 1/2 (whatever it would be).
If I would have cleared it, it would have been 13 or maybe 12.75 after blade width, so I just figured I’d take the opportunity to get it how I wanted, and dowel up the holes.
@@malonedrum A perfectly acceptable reason
I would like to have my Yamaha Oak Custom 17x20 BD cut to 14''.
I've cut down a Yamaha stage custom in the same size and it was tricky to do that size with placement of vent hole and lugs, but you could maybe do 13"?
Might be good at 13'' but that would put the tom mount in the middle of the BD. Maybe not good for tom placement. @@malonedrum
@@CharlesBeauregard it’s a bit limiting.
14" deep kicks
All about it! Or even 12”
What size dowels did you use?
Way too far back for me to remember exactly, but I've learned to just buy a variety of close sizes as it's not always what you'd think. You can get dowels from a small hardware store or hobby store in a variety of sizes (down to 1/32 of an inch difference) and have a few close sizes on hand to find the right fit.
@@malonedrum I can work with that. Thanks for the reply!
In 10 years 22x10 will be most popular kick drum (not bass anymore) size.
I’m not too far off, but I’ll say 22 x 12 or 20 x 12
I hate 18” depth bass drums as well but for me 16” depth is the sweet spot between the boom of an 18” and the quick punch of a 14”. I’m too set up for cutting and edging. I noticed that you skipped some steps to flatten your edge first before cutting the edge. I also would’ve taken some off from both ends and utilize the rear lug holes so I wouldn’t have to plug holes. Also should you ever sell this kit those plugged holes is going to seriously devalue the kit. That 1300 bass drum is now worth a few hundred.
Hey Shawn, thanks for engaging with my video. I appreciate you offering your opinion here in the comments, and I think your thoughts are valid. I agree that a 16" is a nice middle ground (both sonically, and literally) between 18" and 14" depth bass drum. I personally prefer the traditional size of 14" depth on all kicks, but to each their own, and maybe for the style of music you play a 16" depth better suits your needs.
Your point on flattening the edge is totally fair. I did reference the fresh edge on my flattest surface I have available to me in my shop, but I'm not sure in all of the time lapse footage if that is really evident in this video. So my amateur directing skills may have led you to the conclusion I didn't check or sand after cutting on a flat surface.
Although your idea of cutting from both edges, and utilizing one of the two pre-existing holes seems like an obvious choice, for many drums the measurement between the bearing edge, and first hole, and then the distance between the two lug holes wouldn't allow you to 1) create enough space from the new bearing edge and the fist hole for the head to seat over the shell and tighten, or 2) potentially be out of alignment with the spacing to match factory specs in terms of distance/tension rod length/etc. Also, I always recommend removing shell material from one to side to avoid not only cutting two new edges, but potentially disrupting the positioning of other hardware on the shell like tom post brackets or spurs. So my standard approach would be a batter side trim only if possible.
It seems like you have a strong distaste for plugging holes, and I can understand the purity of the shell and visual distraction not being worth it for you, but luckily in this specific case (not necessarily for all), the holes I plugged are close enough to the bearing edge that the hoop collar covers it, and avoids it being a visual distraction. Now, I know that still leaves the argument of holes plugged maybe being a purity issue, but when I've consulted with professional builders and drum shops that do these sorts of alterations, plugs are sometimes the best or only option. Again, it's fair to not endorse that option if it works better for you situation.
Lastly, of course the value of this drum is no longer $1,300. For one, it's used, so that would immediately reduce the value, and two, it has been altered, so I would suspect, outside of a specific buyer seeking this size drum (which I think there's a large market for) that's another knock. I'm not sure if you heard the part of me getting this drum for free, but that obviously factored into my comfort to do this alteration as I did. If I were to sell it, I think it still has a fair market used value on point with similar drums, but as you probably gathered in the video, I did this specifically to suit my needs, not as a flip project.
I would absolutely love to see you process and set up in a video on your channel, so if you take the time to do one, please link it below and I'll make sure to watch it.
@@malonedrum thanks for taking the time write all of that, it wasn’t necessary but I appreciate it. I feel like you thought I was “hating” on your video, not really... I’m a drum builder I build my own kits and was a bit confused with some of your choices. I would have to have the same drum in front of me to figure out my final plan to chop it so I give you that... I think if I had to use 22x13 or 22x15 to avoid plugging holes I definitely would, an inch wouldn’t make that big of a difference in fact my vintage slingerland 22x14 kick I once owned was actually 22x13, I guess they figured it was close enough and built you couldn’t really tell. But yes I avoid plugging holes at all cost it’s an absolute last resort for me. I’m also a bit of a perfectionist I’m a screen printer by trade so I have to be, flaws even those unseen really bother me because I know it’s there. I would’ve sold my kit and bought the sizes I wanted if plugging holes was the only option. As far as truing edges prior to cutting the edge I secure sand paper to a slab of granite called a surface plate and sand the edge flat then check my edge with the light inside the drum technique and then cutting my edge and rechecking for flatness with the light on the surface plate method as seen on one of the DW factory tours videos. I do this until my drum is absolutely perfect, you know how easy a drum is tune up when it’s absolutely perfect? It’s beautiful!!! I even check and recut edges on new drums if they’re not right.
why not cut a 1/2" shorter and not worry about left over holes?
I wanted a 14” depth, and knew I could plug the holes, and disguise them with the hoop collar, so it was a choice I felt comfortable making.
Drum dial bearing edge conditioner? They'd sell any ol crap to drummers, really, wouldn't they? Me again btw. Ha ha.
Ha, yes. I actually made a dedicated video about it, so as you dig through the archives I’m sure you’ll find it.
My opinion is that it’s probably the same as any other sealant you could use for fresh cut edges, but it’s a handy tool to help seal the edge and fill in slight voids
@@malonedrum Yeah. They're really scraping the bottom of the barrel with these ideas. Ha ha. I'll check your video for sure.
👍
So yes?
@@malonedrum no
@@yesno4065 Damn
22 are 24x14
The way it should be.
nice job
Thanks Bruce!
Love these videos. But you broke my heart when you started measuring the tom holder. 😔
Hey, if I’m gonna put a pillow in it, im not worried about putting a tom hole in there
im just gonna say it. deep bass drums objectively dont sound good and we need to make like 10-13 the standard
Absolutely, I love 14” depth, but my favorite is 12”