always pleased to see realistic video's such as these, where every nut comes loose without a problem. Especially on these yaris where the nut of the lower control arm has to be cut off in 95% of the cases, and wheel hubs that practically fall out of the carrier which in fact need several tons of pressure to come out (if you're lucky)
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement; this is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be carried out by specialized car services.
@@autodocuk Maybe I was a little harsh. I understand that you cannot cover all possible problems as this would probably turn off potential customers, and the video would take 3 times as long. But I had to giggle when I saw how easily this job was done on video while I ran into literally every problem you could run into doing this job, and I've done it twice on these yaris. Nuts that turn round, break off, ...
Never ever will you get a pressed in wheel hub out with 2x strikes from a small sledge like that..... EVER. Try 20-50 strikes. But I did learn something on pressing the bearing out with the spindle flipped over. I bent 2 spindles try to press the other direction. That helped a lot.
Usually those lower ball joint won't just pop free with the ball joint separator alone. You have to apply pressure with the ball joint separator than hit the iron that the ball joint stud is inserted into with a hammer. The vibration from hammering along with the pressure applied by the ball joint separator will cause the lower ball joint to separate.
Like he does at the 11:30 mark in the video... Is it ok to impact the axle nut on. Or is there a recommended torque spec? I know some GM cars discourage impacting the acme nut
Thank you for your feedback! You are right, this is a big mistake, the tightening should be done exclusively with a torque wrench with a specific tightening torque according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Best Regards, Autodoc Team!
in most cases the tightening torque is near 300Nm, which is very friggin' tight, so honestly using an impact gun for these nuts isn't truly a disaster.
i have a wheelsensor. on some videos i saw that the bearing must be magnetic. but the one i bought from autodoc is not. do normal wheel sensors not need a magnetic bearing? the bearing looks the same at both sides.
I did this job today and while being a big help it isn't a fraction as easy as this video makes it look like. The disassembly is not to bad but the lower ball joint is difficult even with a proper tool you are going to swing a hammer and apply some heat to get it loose. The bearing shown removed had been doctored in some way in the video. The hub came out with sledge hammer but that inside race didn't. I was replacing hubs so it didn't matter. You're going to have to cut that race off at hub or buy a hub. The bearing outer race was left and I struck it with a 3 pound hammer firmly and steadily for about 40 minutes. My smaller press wouldn't budge it at all. Pressing the new parts wasn't too bad albeit I polished and heated before pressing back together.
We cannot show all the nuances and problems when replacing, this is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be made at specialized services.
you really could make this more of a learning curve if you gave the torque settings, especially when you give nut sizes and appropriate tools. I could use the torque settings. Great video though
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your comment. We will take it into consideration for our next videos. Stay tuned with us! Best regards, Autodoc team!
Thank you for your feedback! We have fixed these errors in our new videos. Now we always use a torque wrench with a specified tightening torque. Best regards, Autodoc!
Thank you for your commemt! Unfortunately, it is not possible to answer your question, you can probably find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car. Best Regards, Autodoc team
Nice Tutorial, thumbs up, only thing I didn't like was the steel hammer, I use an Aluminum or Nylon hammer for things like that. Or a piece of hardwood between steel hammer and work piece.
Thank you for your comment! You can find this information in the technical literature on the repair and operation of your car. Best Regards, Autodoc team
Not a very good demonstration of health and safety, you'd be daft to good near a bearing press without safety specs, I managed to end up with a piece of bearing shell embedded in my cheek for years, not trying to put folk off but take care if you have a go 😊
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your valuable remark. We will consider our mistakes in following the Safety regulations and will surely try not to make them any more. Best regards, Autodoc.
I think each person should be responsible for his/her own actions. I always wear a breathing OSHA rated half mask and face shield. think before you do your job. if someone laughs for wearing protection then that's their problem.
This video is not completely honest. When the old bearing is removed it is missing one face....this will be stuck on the hub carrier and difficult to remove....have a close look.... nothing stuck on the hub carrier....? I have done this job....this will happen...Peter K
Thank you for your feedback. Yes, you are absolutely right, we understand our mistake and now we always use safety glasses in new videos. Best Regards, Autodoc team
@@autodocuk At 6:00 you start to drive out the wheel bearing. I only want to change the dust cover (the thin metal splash guard). Does the wheel bearing need to be taken out to change that?
![How to change front wheel bearing on TOYOTA YARIS Mk2 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YRc1QY2HNx4/mqdefault.jpg)
Where do you find your rust free yaris's? Asking for a friend...
always pleased to see realistic video's such as these, where every nut comes loose without a problem. Especially on these yaris where the nut of the lower control arm has to be cut off in 95% of the cases, and wheel hubs that practically fall out of the carrier which in fact need several tons of pressure to come out (if you're lucky)
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement; this is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be carried out by specialized car services.
@@autodocuk Maybe I was a little harsh. I understand that you cannot cover all possible problems as this would probably turn off potential customers, and the video would take 3 times as long. But I had to giggle when I saw how easily this job was done on video while I ran into literally every problem you could run into doing this job, and I've done it twice on these yaris. Nuts that turn round, break off, ...
Men this dude is professional for real
Thank you for your feedback! We are happy that you like the work of our mechanic. Best regards, Autodoc.
Never ever will you get a pressed in wheel hub out with 2x strikes from a small sledge like that..... EVER. Try 20-50 strikes. But I did learn something on pressing the bearing out with the spindle flipped over. I bent 2 spindles try to press the other direction. That helped a lot.
Sorry to be disappointing, what size is the socket to knock out the hub on the MK1 Yaris. Bought a 29mm and it's too big.
I'm going to give this job to my mechanic
Usually those lower ball joint won't just pop free with the ball joint separator alone. You have to apply pressure with the ball joint separator than hit the iron that the ball joint stud is inserted into with a hammer. The vibration from hammering along with the pressure applied by the ball joint separator will cause the lower ball joint to separate.
Thank you for the valuable clarification, it will be very useful information for our viewers.
Best Regards, Autodoc Team!
I wish I've read this before attempting the job. Took 60 mins for a first timer to get this separated!
Good job. I watched the video after the job for fun. Not easy first time.
Thank you for the feedback! It’s great to know that our video was useful! Follow our upcoming updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
that video was awesome !!!!!
Thank you for the feedback! Thank you for the interest in our channel. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Like he does at the 11:30 mark in the video...
Is it ok to impact the axle nut on. Or is there a recommended torque spec?
I know some GM cars discourage impacting the acme nut
Thank you for your feedback! You are right, this is a big mistake, the tightening should be done exclusively with a torque wrench with a specific tightening torque according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Best Regards, Autodoc Team!
in most cases the tightening torque is near 300Nm, which is very friggin' tight, so honestly using an impact gun for these nuts isn't truly a disaster.
i have a wheelsensor. on some videos i saw that the bearing must be magnetic. but the one i bought from autodoc is not. do normal wheel sensors not need a magnetic bearing? the bearing looks the same at both sides.
I did this job today and while being a big help it isn't a fraction as easy as this video makes it look like. The disassembly is not to bad but the lower ball joint is difficult even with a proper tool you are going to swing a hammer and apply some heat to get it loose. The bearing shown removed had been doctored in some way in the video. The hub came out with sledge hammer but that inside race didn't. I was replacing hubs so it didn't matter. You're going to have to cut that race off at hub or buy a hub. The bearing outer race was left and I struck it with a 3 pound hammer firmly and steadily for about 40 minutes. My smaller press wouldn't budge it at all. Pressing the new parts wasn't too bad albeit I polished and heated before pressing back together.
We cannot show all the nuances and problems when replacing, this is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be made at specialized services.
What is the size of the socket to knock the hub out. Thanks
You can find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car.
you really could make this more of a learning curve if you gave the torque settings, especially when you give nut sizes and appropriate tools. I could use the torque settings. Great video though
The Front axle bearing tightening torque 216 Nm:
AUTODOC
Does the spring need to be compressed
Please clarify or rephrase your question.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
If the bearing has a magnetic encoder for the ABS, he shouldn't hammer it into the hub before pressing. It could damage the magnetic encoder.
Thank you for your feedback!
We appreciate your comment.
We will take it into consideration for our next videos.
Stay tuned with us!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
6 high priced mechanics gave the video a thumbs down, DIY rules
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Someone give him a copper faced hammer and a toque wrench for Christmas, great video wel demonstration.
Thank you for your feedback! We have fixed these errors in our new videos. Now we always use a torque wrench with a specified tightening torque. Best regards, Autodoc!
Would this be the same process for a 2004 scion xa?
Thank you for your commemt!
Unfortunately, it is not possible to answer your question, you can probably find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
When you intalll the bearing in rh min 7:56 witch side goes to the out side of the car
Both sides of the bearing are the same so it can go either side out side of the car
i was wondering too. so when there is ABS it has a ring on both sides?
Did you grease the bearing
Thank you for your attention to the details.
That's right, during the installation, we have lubricated the bearing.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
The bearings come pre lubed so no need to grease them. whoever is answering for autodoc he doesn't know what he is talking about.
Nice Tutorial, thumbs up, only thing I didn't like was the steel hammer, I use an Aluminum or Nylon hammer for things like that. Or a piece of hardwood between steel hammer and work piece.
Thank you for the feedback! We appreciate your kind comment and will try not to make it once more. Best regards, Autodoc.
Does anyone know what size the cotter pin is?
Thank you for your comment!
You can find this information in the technical literature on the repair and operation of your car.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
You’ve missed the abs sensor
In this case, a car without abs.
Its not that easy as this guy makes it look
Funny when the wheel nut didn't even turn but then magically came off. Thanks for the video though.
Thank you for the feedback! We are grateful that you appreciate our media! To see more interesting content stay tuned. Best Regards, Autodoc.
It might have been turning but the camera frames synced so it appeared to not be moving. Funny comment though.
I think that new bearing needs some grease
It is recommended to lubricate the bearing at the setting.
What is the real time from start to end?
Thank you for your comment.
It all depends on the technical condition of the parts, on average from one hour per side.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
Not a very good demonstration of health and safety, you'd be daft to good near a bearing press without safety specs, I managed to end up with a piece of bearing shell embedded in my cheek for years, not trying to put folk off but take care if you have a go 😊
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your valuable remark. We will consider our mistakes in following the Safety regulations and will surely try not to make them any more. Best regards, Autodoc.
I think each person should be responsible for his/her own actions. I always wear a breathing OSHA rated half mask and face shield. think before you do your job. if someone laughs for wearing protection then that's their problem.
This video is not completely honest. When the old bearing is removed it is missing one face....this will be stuck on the hub carrier and difficult to remove....have a close look.... nothing stuck on the hub carrier....?
I have done this job....this will happen...Peter K
You are absolutely right, some points were missed, but we will definitely add this in our new videos.
AUTODOC
Safety glasses, dawg...!!!
Thank you for your feedback.
Yes, you are absolutely right, we understand our mistake and now we always use safety glasses in new videos.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
I like the way this guy works but I wish he would wear safety glasses.
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
Not a DIY job. Not for me anyway.
Thank you for your feedback ! We always recommend to contact Car Specialized Service to have replacement done. Best regards, Autodoc.
Any job can be a DIY job. Just gotta trust yourself.
I need to replace the dust cover does this whole procedure have to be done?
Thanks for your feedback! Please clarify or rephrase your question.
@@autodocuk At 6:00 you start to drive out the wheel bearing. I only want to change the dust cover (the thin metal splash guard). Does the wheel bearing need to be taken out to change that?