Good Stuff Brotha! You still need to pick up some of these servos I'm telling you bro they are perfect! Check them out on Amazon. JX servo PDI-1181MG 17.5g 3.5kg
@@sickduck66 Spot on Chris, I have these installed in mine. Just need a 3 mm screw that is the same length as the coarse threaded one that's in the factory servo. The screw included with the new servo is too short when using the WLtoys original servo arm.
I have actually seen people put closed wheel pan car bodies on these. They are very sleek and reduce drag at high speed because it is closed wheeled. It will also increase the cars overall stability.
These videos have so inspired me! I have 1 124019 and 1 124018 for my girls and I to run around our steet, and 2 124019s ordered. One will be for dirt track my buddy and I are going to build at his place this Spring, and the other will be for speed runs. I can't wait to get wrenching on them!
@@roberttruesdell6151 Yeah, maybe later but for now these are fine. I have had some really hard crashes with no issues with either one. And the two 124019s I just ordered were only $80 so they are great to learn on. But yeah, I'm sure you are right about the quality. Thanks.
@@roberttruesdell6151 the comparison between a 124019 and a lc12b1 is a bit bad, that's like telling someone who has VW gold or any normal car to buy a Ferrari because they are better , lc12b1 might be better, but it's also 3x the money.
Running the 4tec body is a great idea, you'll have more room under it to do things like: * turn the esc so it fits better if you want * mount bigger batteries (2s, 3s, maybe even ... 4s🤔) * run a fan on the motor if so desired Love what you're doing so far, keep it up.
Hey Richie! Thanks for the shout 😀 You're doing sone really good stuff with this 124019, I think you should do the 4Tec body! And I think I'll be ordering some of those CVD's
Lol i dont even have the 124019 yet but when it gets here ill be putting in a sidewinder4 and that 3.5 turn rocket motor in it. Do u think ot will do the same speed richy?
I printed a custom back blate to hold my electronics that gives a really neat install allowing larger batteries too - for some reason youtube won't let me post the link though 😪
I was looking at the 3.5 turn rocket motors and it says it's rated for only 1S lipo will it blow the motor on 2s with that rocket motor Ill be running a 120 amp hobbywing esc will it hold up
Great build Rich I have bought these parts for my car I'm turning into a rally car the front bumper with body posts and the rear body posts will work good with that race body LC RACING Body Post Set Black For EMB-SC EMB-WRC EMB-MT #L6033 LC Racing Rally Bumper Set Black EMB-WRC EP 1:14 RC Cars 4WD On Off Road #L6040
Kurt Many many thanks for sharing this, I've popped a set of the posts on order. I wish I'd seen the post earlier as I stayed up to 2.30am printing off some on my new 3d printer! My home made ones will make an appearance later this week!
Cheers JD! How you and the Fam' are all well, got snow? I miss the snow to be honest! Watching your nitro buggy has me thinking about getting one very soon, as I'd like to get a couple of new cars but not a lot of inspiration out there from the big boys at the minute
@@DriftomaniacsRC I am changed my plan and go back to electric RC. I am getting TRX4, UDR, and XMAXX. I sold nitro rc cars. It is hard for me to not hear an engine if it has a problem and too loud for dogs barking around neighborhood. Nitro RC is not waterproof. Electric RC has lot of pros than nitro RC. I don't have a SNOW! LOL
For the 3.5 turn motor that you recommend when I go to the link on the website it says 1s Lipo battery recommended. Since you’re running 2s and 3S I assume it’s perfectly safe? Or would a higher turn motor be better on 3S? Am I missing something here?
Hi, do you know which Moss rubber tires can withstand a really very high speed, have wltoys 14001 with a motor-pinion module 1 26 teeth and a main drive wheel with 19 teeth and my Moss rubber tires shredded ..... 😜 at not even full speed. KV moror 4000 on 3s
More than I'd tell my wife... ESC is the biggest bit but a cheaper one would probably do, however the castle is high power and compact, just sent the dead one off for warranty repair. Of note the stock plastic gearing hit 104 on the other one I own, and the motors $46 and the batteries just over $20. So not too bad for the speed other than the esc, I may try and do a 'budget build' next and see how fast I could push one for say $100, do you think that'd be of interest?
It’s so annoying when people tight the spring tension collar down and say it stiffens the car. The collar adjusts preload and sets ride height. That’s it. To change the feel of the shock springs, pistons, oil. All you did was raise the back. And front. And with the droop screws locked the suspension arm from moving freely. Droop screws don’t lower ride height either. The limit the down travel of the arm or droop.
Of note I raised the back, not sure how I raised the front by lowering it but there we go. As for the droop screws not lowering the ride I suggest that you take that up with arrma, as that's where I got the idea fromand in their manuals it says specifically to use the droop screws to lower the cars, but what do they know I mean they only make RC cars... Also don't you think it's odd that wltoys drilled four holes in just the right positions to fit droop screws? Weird huh? Like someone designed them in the right place... This setup just works plain and simple, most people will just take it for what it is, a video to help others plain and simple. 5 days of testing to get it right but I guess you know all that from all the rc videos you make.......oh er hang on....
@@DriftomaniacsRC droop screws are meant to limit the amount of travel of the arms down. Used in off-road vehicles a lot so when the vehicle jumps the arms don’t drop to much and cause the axles to pop out or jam/bind and bend or break. The collars when you screw them down on the shock your increase the preload of the shock and effectively raising the ride height of the vehicle. The spring tension doesn’t change. What some videos from the pro racers like Adam Drake, Ryan Lutz etc. they have many videos explaining it.
You contradicted yourself. If you pre-tension the rear shocks, which would mean they would not compress as easily, you would "stiffen" the car and raise the rear up. And as you said, the droop screws limit the downward motion of the arm, if you limit the downward motion enough the car will sit lower. His setup is stiffer and lower in the front.
@@Mark_5150 preloading the shocks is just putting a load on the shock before the weight of the vehicle is on the shock hence “pre” what that does is take out the droop or natural ride height and keeps the ride height higher. The spring tension hasn’t changed.
@@Mark_5150 it doesn’t actually lower the car it keeps the arm from moving. It’s a false ride hieght and makes your suspension not work effectively. Ultimately keeps your shocks from bottoming out.
![เปิดคำทำนาย นอสตราดามุส - บาบา วานก้า ปี 2025 คนทั่วโลกต้องเจออะไรบ้าง? | แฉ 11 ธ.ค. 67 [2/3] |GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xmTIKWJUMPM/mqdefault.jpg)
Good Stuff Brotha! You still need to pick up some of these servos I'm telling you bro they are perfect! Check them out on Amazon. JX servo PDI-1181MG 17.5g 3.5kg
Chris thank god you posted this. I think you did the other day then I lost the darn post and my wife closed the Amazon window! Lifesaver mate!
Hahaha got to love the old ladys! You won't regret these servos bro
@@sickduck66 Spot on Chris, I have these installed in mine. Just need a 3 mm screw that is the same length as the coarse threaded one that's in the factory servo. The screw included with the new servo is too short when using the WLtoys original servo arm.
@@charlesbeshaw9843 you sir.. are correct 😁
I have actually seen people put closed wheel pan car bodies on these. They are very sleek and reduce drag at high speed because it is closed wheeled. It will also increase the cars overall stability.
Also the body will let you have extra space for wires,electronics, etc.
These videos have so inspired me! I have 1 124019 and 1 124018 for my girls and I to run around our steet, and 2 124019s ordered. One will be for dirt track my buddy and I are going to build at his place this Spring, and the other will be for speed runs. I can't wait to get wrenching on them!
I’d get the Lc12b1 instead. It’s better quality and what the wltoys cloned.
@@roberttruesdell6151 Yeah, maybe later but for now these are fine. I have had some really hard crashes with no issues with either one. And the two 124019s I just ordered were only $80 so they are great to learn on. But yeah, I'm sure you are right about the quality. Thanks.
@@roberttruesdell6151 the comparison between a 124019 and a lc12b1 is a bit bad, that's like telling someone who has VW gold or any normal car to buy a Ferrari because they are better , lc12b1 might be better, but it's also 3x the money.
@@darkki94 there is a difference the LR Racing isn’t a clone. The wltoys is.
@@roberttruesdell6151 not everyone can afford a 200-250$ toy but a 80$ is a lot more affordable .
i really like watching you man
keep on with this insane 124019
i would love to have that car setup to max out at 50mph...don't want it for speed runs..this car is great for what ever you have planned for it...
50-60 is great sweet spot for it. I do the manic stuff so you guys and girls don’t have to
Running the 4tec body is a great idea, you'll have more room under it to do things like:
* turn the esc so it fits better if you want
* mount bigger batteries (2s, 3s, maybe even ... 4s🤔)
* run a fan on the motor if so desired
Love what you're doing so far, keep it up.
I'm building my 124019 currently. I'm binging your videos rich. I wish you lived near me lol.
That Traxxas body looks very good! Keep it up Bro.
4tEC BODY FOR SURE!!
As for body mounting, search for the lcracing emb body posts, they mount directly to the shock mounts
I had 2 1500mah batteries in my WLToys a959b, it worked out great.
Brilliant mate!!! - where can we find the file to print a front wing for the 141001 ?
100% put the speed body on. Looks great
Hey Richie! Thanks for the shout 😀
You're doing sone really good stuff with this 124019, I think you should do the 4Tec body!
And I think I'll be ordering some of those CVD's
love project cars
looking good rich
Great video thanks for sharing 👍
Rich can you run 30mm contact foams front and rear
Lol i dont even have the 124019 yet but when it gets here ill be putting in a sidewinder4 and that 3.5 turn rocket motor in it. Do u think ot will do the same speed richy?
I have the same question
I printed a custom back blate to hold my electronics that gives a really neat install allowing larger batteries too - for some reason youtube won't let me post the link though 😪
Maybe you can find it by looking for bernitz on Thingiverse.
Urg - Thingiverse search sucks - try searching for 124019 and hopefully it will show my mods.
am using a overlander 2s 2200mah 80c/140 burst its a monster for what it is
I love what your doing with the car... change the body for speed that thing will fly...😁👍👍👍
I was looking at the 3.5 turn rocket motors and it says it's rated for only 1S lipo will it blow the motor on 2s with that rocket motor Ill be running a 120 amp hobbywing esc will it hold up
Great build Rich I have bought these parts for my car I'm turning into a rally car the front bumper with body posts and the rear body posts will work good with that race body
LC RACING Body Post Set Black For EMB-SC EMB-WRC EMB-MT #L6033
LC Racing Rally Bumper Set Black EMB-WRC EP 1:14 RC Cars 4WD On Off Road #L6040
Kurt Many many thanks for sharing this, I've popped a set of the posts on order. I wish I'd seen the post earlier as I stayed up to 2.30am printing off some on my new 3d printer! My home made ones will make an appearance later this week!
awesome video i think its cool
Rich where did you get your wheels
nice
Love this thing. I'm thinking 4tec body less timing and more Ss 😁. Plus the 4tec body you should be able to add a heatsink and fan
Can u please tell me the details of the servo ...i want the exact servo....please
You are amazing!
Cheers JD! How you and the Fam' are all well, got snow? I miss the snow to be honest! Watching your nitro buggy has me thinking about getting one very soon, as I'd like to get a couple of new cars but not a lot of inspiration out there from the big boys at the minute
@@DriftomaniacsRC I am changed my plan and go back to electric RC. I am getting TRX4, UDR, and XMAXX. I sold nitro rc cars. It is hard for me to not hear an engine if it has a problem and too loud for dogs barking around neighborhood. Nitro RC is not waterproof. Electric RC has lot of pros than nitro RC. I don't have a SNOW! LOL
For the 3.5 turn motor that you recommend when I go to the link on the website it says 1s Lipo battery recommended. Since you’re running 2s and 3S I assume it’s perfectly safe? Or would a higher turn motor be better on 3S? Am I missing something here?
Niiiice build brother! 💪🏾💯
Hi, do you know which Moss rubber tires can withstand a really very high speed, have wltoys 14001 with a motor-pinion module 1 26 teeth and a main drive wheel with 19 teeth and my Moss rubber tires shredded ..... 😜 at not even full speed. KV moror 4000 on 3s
No, sorry
Nice vid were did you get the 4tec body
Is it better to run 30mm square set up?
4tec body👌
I have the mamba x as well but have no idea what settings to program would you possibly be ok with making a video on the settings you’ve used?
What is the wheelbase on that, Got something in mind if it fits. THX
230mm - don't ask how I know that but it is!
On the body side of things great idea but try it without cutting it for the rear wheels (only if the wheels dont rub )
Great info 👍👊
I saw the last video you did and boy is it fast with your mods. Is it me or does on of the front arms seem slightly more drooped than the other?
HOw much would that whole car setup cost?
More than I'd tell my wife... ESC is the biggest bit but a cheaper one would probably do, however the castle is high power and compact, just sent the dead one off for warranty repair. Of note the stock plastic gearing hit 104 on the other one I own, and the motors $46 and the batteries just over $20. So not too bad for the speed other than the esc, I may try and do a 'budget build' next and see how fast I could push one for say $100, do you think that'd be of interest?
@@DriftomaniacsRC the budget speed run one would be great!
@@DriftomaniacsRC Yes, That would be good, since I do not have that much money lying around lol
what is the total cost?
whats the total amount of money you spent on it?
Hey Rich I've saw that you have used a savox servo for this build. I was wondering if you could send me a link for this servo?
Google it my guy.
👍👍
Fuuuuck I bought a new servo for my brushless system and it arrived, ist waaaay to big :(( anyone any advice how I could handle the problem?
Chris Torres, recommended this JX servo PDI-1181MG 17.5g 3.5kg Metal Gear Analog Servo. Search it on Amazon. I purchased two and my are in the way.
First Comment Bro 😁👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻🇮🇳🇮🇳
You can fit a heat sink and fan in there. I did.
It’s like you have a different intro for each video
It’s so annoying when people tight the spring tension collar down and say it stiffens the car.
The collar adjusts preload and sets ride height. That’s it. To change the feel of the shock springs, pistons, oil.
All you did was raise the back. And front. And with the droop screws locked the suspension arm from moving freely. Droop screws don’t lower ride height either. The limit the down travel of the arm or droop.
Of note I raised the back, not sure how I raised the front by lowering it but there we go. As for the droop screws not lowering the ride I suggest that you take that up with arrma, as that's where I got the idea fromand in their manuals it says specifically to use the droop screws to lower the cars, but what do they know I mean they only make RC cars... Also don't you think it's odd that wltoys drilled four holes in just the right positions to fit droop screws? Weird huh? Like someone designed them in the right place...
This setup just works plain and simple, most people will just take it for what it is, a video to help others plain and simple. 5 days of testing to get it right but I guess you know all that from all the rc videos you make.......oh er hang on....
@@DriftomaniacsRC droop screws are meant to limit the amount of travel of the arms down. Used in off-road vehicles a lot so when the vehicle jumps the arms don’t drop to much and cause the axles to pop out or jam/bind and bend or break.
The collars when you screw them down on the shock your increase the preload of the shock and effectively raising the ride height of the vehicle. The spring tension doesn’t change.
What some videos from the pro racers like Adam Drake, Ryan Lutz etc. they have many videos explaining it.
You contradicted yourself.
If you pre-tension the rear shocks, which would mean they would not compress as easily, you would "stiffen" the car and raise the rear up.
And as you said, the droop screws limit the downward motion of the arm, if you limit the downward motion enough the car will sit lower.
His setup is stiffer and lower in the front.
@@Mark_5150 preloading the shocks is just putting a load on the shock before the weight of the vehicle is on the shock hence “pre” what that does is take out the droop or natural ride height and keeps the ride height higher. The spring tension hasn’t changed.
@@Mark_5150 it doesn’t actually lower the car it keeps the arm from moving. It’s a false ride hieght and makes your suspension not work effectively. Ultimately keeps your shocks from bottoming out.
👍
Hello
:)