Between the little tire rub and the bushings, I think that’s the cause of binding on steering. My defender wasn’t bad but the bushing bind is enough to make me wonder if it would keep up on stock gears after a full swap. Thanks brother!
I've replaced the bushings with bearings in both axles and front is still binding.. forgot on it since my stock servo died next day. "Bang for buck" so far
It seems to really just be the bronco because the tires are wider but some have their end points just a bit different. You can program the end points as well to fix this.
Mine didn’t come with a binding issue but i upgraded the spacers because I needed weight and a wider wheel base, however now it binds on the front bumper and killed my stock servo. Put a new eco power 640t in and I don’t want that dead too, any recommendations for stoping binding on the bumper
Does the defender have the same bearing issue? Same axels? Wold welding up new stear arm for the bronco or modify the arm? Is anyone making bent metal X arms for these little critters? Will you review wheel weights compared to ball bearings. Bead lock or glued in tier?
Same, just enough rub to where i can notice it. I love the look and feel of the stock wheels and tires. Your telling me traxxas comes out with a whole line of upgrades and they don’t include extension hexes???? They had to have known this was occurring before they released it. It’s still a great rc just disappointing coming from traxxas
I put some trx4m hex’s on thingiverse. Made for a specific wheel, but they might fit other wheels., They are a wider offset and no issues with tire rub now.
I’ll probably do it. The output shaft for the driveshaft is larger on the Trx4m so you’d have to use Trx4m driveshaft on the axle end and fcx24 on the transmission side or drill out an fcx24 driveshaft to fit the axle side. Not that hard though. I did it with the panda portal when I put it on an Scx24.
I did all the fixes, and every combination thereof, still binding. I don't even drive it anymore it is so bad. Love my SCX24 and use it everyday, upgraded it and it drives circles around the TRX4M.
Dang that sucks! Usually the bearing kit is the main factor but I’ve kinda tossed my Trx4m to the side as well lately. I’ve got a huge pile of upgrades for it that I plan to do a video on. Just haven’t got around to it.
@2FM RC I look forward to that video, I could really use a few hints on getting this thing back into the fun zone again. It seems like there is a lot of potential locked up in this chassis.
It'd be great to hear about your experience with the battery and connector on these rigs after you've run them a little. I've been spoiled so far in that my FMS and Axial rigs can all easily be converted to the same JST connector and all my batteries can be run on my trucks. I'm hesitant to pick this one up because it looks like you can't use aftermarket batteries, and you can't charge the Traxxas batteries with any other than the charger that comes in the box? Is this true? If so, getting the batteries to storage level is going to be pain. It'd be great to see how to test the voltage on them. I know having a million different battery systems sort of comes with the territory, but I'm trying to decide whether to put the TRX4M or a max smasher higher on my list. Cheers!
I’ve added bearings and still get the binding. Then opened the diff and noticed that the helical gears are are not fitting properly. It seems on the left side of the diff the plastic is too tight. I thought the axle was bent a little. If you run the helical gears on their own it’s smooth. Once you put in the axle rod it starts binding. For me, stock axles are coming off.
Mine seam to be binding in my front and rear axel with the front tires going straight its all stock and 3 batteries through it only drove it on hardwood floor any idea what it could be ?
Definitely the bushings. I have a brand new set of these axles that will barely turn out of the package. Pick up a bearing kit from Injora or someone and swap out all of the bushings. It makes a huge difference! amzn.to/3GSScf1
2FM RC, i just got mine, and ive been trying to figure out the binding issue, and the drive shaft broke! any more ideas? when ever i turn it all the way the tires shutter, and some time stop all together. i have the hex 7mm hubs installed.
Definitely do the bearings. As you pull everything apart on the axle to do the bearings check one piece at a time. Checking each thing to make sure there is no resistance or binding. Something somewhere will probably feel tight when turning by hand. Thats more than likely the problem. The bearings should really help.
@@2fmrc so something i double checked was making sure that the drive shaft was lined correctly and that helped the issue a lot. i made sure the pins where in the same direction. Also, i got the injorna barrings coming in today, so that will get done tonight, ill update! thanks for the response!!
@@2fmrcok all switched out! Not perfect, but better!! I took it out in the mud and water and the bushings in the transmission started to have rust in it! 😮😮😮 Glad I secured out. I thought this was supposed to be waterproof and not have to worry about it. Do I have to open everything each time it goes in some water?
Yeah I’ve done that a lot with the fcx24 lol. I still use rubber o rings to keep my hex on when I pull the wheels on those axles. If not the hex falls off every time I remove the wheel and the pin just falls out 😆
I like the TRX4M, but I never preorder just to the issues they have, and is good I don't buy it, the aftermarket company will create some new steering links the link is the issue
Between the little tire rub and the bushings, I think that’s the cause of binding on steering. My defender wasn’t bad but the bushing bind is enough to make me wonder if it would keep up on stock gears after a full swap. Thanks brother!
Yeah I use the same Hexes I have six sets of them and they all are mounted, appreciate you sharing catch on the next one
Could you possible do a side by side review of the bearings vs bushing?
I will try to do that! Good idea for sure
Good catch & Fix! I also wonder about the traxxas aluminum upgrade steering links as well!! ;)
Hey Matt, any word from fms about the Max Smasher batteries with the hi-speed motor?
I've replaced the bushings with bearings in both axles and front is still binding.. forgot on it since my stock servo died next day. "Bang for buck" so far
Great info Matt, thank you very much.
Good video also that blue mat you have where can I purchase that and what brand is it
Thanks! Great work mats for sure
amzn.to/3F4JfxM
My question is how didn't Traxxas catch something like this in testing?? I love cheap fixes :)
Yeah you’d think they would’ve found this pretty quick. You’d also think in 2022 we’d just have bearings in every truck 😆
It seems to really just be the bronco because the tires are wider but some have their end points just a bit different. You can program the end points as well to fix this.
Nice new Logo mate!
That’s actually just out of a cheap little set I got at wal mart a long while back. I think they still have them.
Hi. Do you recommend this model for 3 years old boy? And is it easy to fix if sand get into the car?
Mine didn’t come with a binding issue but i upgraded the spacers because I needed weight and a wider wheel base, however now it binds on the front bumper and killed my stock servo. Put a new eco power 640t in and I don’t want that dead too, any recommendations for stoping binding on the bumper
Does the defender have the same bearing issue? Same axels? Wold welding up new stear arm for the bronco or modify the arm?
Is anyone making bent metal X arms for these little critters?
Will you review wheel weights compared to ball bearings. Bead lock or glued in tier?
Awesome video excellent find definitely a great fix looks good to
Same, just enough rub to where i can notice it. I love the look and feel of the stock wheels and tires. Your telling me traxxas comes out with a whole line of upgrades and they don’t include extension hexes???? They had to have known this was occurring before they released it. It’s still a great rc just disappointing coming from traxxas
I put some trx4m hex’s on thingiverse. Made for a specific wheel, but they might fit other wheels., They are a wider offset and no issues with tire rub now.
Any thoughts on fitting the FMS portal axles to TRX4M?
I’ll probably do it. The output shaft for the driveshaft is larger on the Trx4m so you’d have to use Trx4m driveshaft on the axle end and fcx24 on the transmission side or drill out an fcx24 driveshaft to fit the axle side. Not that hard though. I did it with the panda portal when I put it on an Scx24.
I did all the fixes, and every combination thereof, still binding. I don't even drive it anymore it is so bad. Love my SCX24 and use it everyday, upgraded it and it drives circles around the TRX4M.
Dang that sucks! Usually the bearing kit is the main factor but I’ve kinda tossed my Trx4m to the side as well lately. I’ve got a huge pile of upgrades for it that I plan to do a video on. Just haven’t got around to it.
@2FM RC I look forward to that video, I could really use a few hints on getting this thing back into the fun zone again. It seems like there is a lot of potential locked up in this chassis.
@@2fmrc I'm staying tuned for that one! Love your videos and learn a lot from them!
It'd be great to hear about your experience with the battery and connector on these rigs after you've run them a little. I've been spoiled so far in that my FMS and Axial rigs can all easily be converted to the same JST connector and all my batteries can be run on my trucks. I'm hesitant to pick this one up because it looks like you can't use aftermarket batteries, and you can't charge the Traxxas batteries with any other than the charger that comes in the box? Is this true? If so, getting the batteries to storage level is going to be pain. It'd be great to see how to test the voltage on them. I know having a million different battery systems sort of comes with the territory, but I'm trying to decide whether to put the TRX4M or a max smasher higher on my list. Cheers!
When are you going to review the new furitek hiroyama chassis kit?! :)
Idk? I may if I get time. It’s very similar to my Olympus build. I think Furitek just makes my builds into kits now 😆
What nut driver is that? I need one. No 5mm in my shop! Lol
Nice video bro
I’ve added bearings and still get the binding. Then opened the diff and noticed that the helical gears are are not fitting properly. It seems on the left side of the diff the plastic is too tight. I thought the axle was bent a little. If you run the helical gears on their own it’s smooth. Once you put in the axle rod it starts binding. For me, stock axles are coming off.
@@AvieMore-s1u yeah the 4m has a bad tendency to have warped axle housings
It would be great if you find a solution for the o-ring holding the pin on the driveshafts, that will cause issues
Use a small section of shrink wrapped over it 👍
Armour all😂
As Sammy suggested, Heat shrink works great and protects that O ring.
Yeah I’d do like the others said and put a tiny piece of shrink wrap over it.
Mine seam to be binding in my front and rear axel with the front tires going straight its all stock and 3 batteries through it only drove it on hardwood floor any idea what it could be ?
Definitely the bushings. I have a brand new set of these axles that will barely turn out of the package. Pick up a bearing kit from Injora or someone and swap out all of the bushings. It makes a huge difference!
amzn.to/3GSScf1
@@2fmrc thanks ill give that a try is it also possible that my wheal nuts are to tight
do a bushing vs. bearing video?
Mine did that I 3d printed some 1.2mm hex shims to fix mine
Could you please send me the file for it? Would be really appreciated
2FM RC, i just got mine, and ive been trying to figure out the binding issue, and the drive shaft broke! any more ideas? when ever i turn it all the way the tires shutter, and some time stop all together. i have the hex 7mm hubs installed.
Definitely do the bearings. As you pull everything apart on the axle to do the bearings check one piece at a time. Checking each thing to make sure there is no resistance or binding. Something somewhere will probably feel tight when turning by hand. Thats more than likely the problem. The bearings should really help.
@@2fmrc so something i double checked was making sure that the drive shaft was lined correctly and that helped the issue a lot. i made sure the pins where in the same direction. Also, i got the injorna barrings coming in today, so that will get done tonight, ill update! thanks for the response!!
@@2fmrcok all switched out! Not perfect, but better!! I took it out in the mud and water and the bushings in the transmission started to have rust in it! 😮😮😮
Glad I secured out. I thought this was supposed to be waterproof and not have to worry about it. Do I have to open everything each time it goes in some water?
Does the trx4m have the same size hex as the scx24
You can also just put two small washers on it too move it out just enough.even a cheaper fix.
Yeah I’ve done that a lot with the fcx24 lol. I still use rubber o rings to keep my hex on when I pull the wheels on those axles. If not the hex falls off every time I remove the wheel and the pin just falls out 😆
Why is my trx4m gears so loud
I heard that you can use spacers and they are 8 bucks
Looks a lot like the panda hobby
I like the TRX4M, but I never preorder just to the issues they have, and is good I don't buy it, the aftermarket company will create some new steering links the link is the issue
I don't understand how a bushing could cause BINDING .... Resistance yes....binding is something different ..
Yeah resistance is really what I meant. Just said binding lol
Funny, mine isn’t bad at all either….
First
Heck yeah!!! Thanks for the comment!