@@TheYotaChannelI’m dealing with a first time mystery ABS warning lights and buzzing on a 2007 Prius ! While driving on the highway, ABS buzzing lights came on.. Voltage on my 12 volts battery started dropping down to 10.4 volts while driving.. Got off the highway and got worse stiff steering and braking and car shutdown ! At that point the voltage on the 12 volts battery is showing 7 volts… Could a malfunctioning ABS actuator overload the 12 volts battery and drain it ?
I have c1391 code and dash warning lights. I have someone lined up to to the necessary repairs, but they are 60 miles away. The brakes feel mushy, but they still seem to function. Is it ok to drive there or should I have it towed? Thanks!
Hey, yes, you can still drive it. I wouldn't recommend highway driving. Drive it when it's not so busy in your area and keep a good distance between you and the car in front.
Thanks for sharing I bought a used 2011 Prius and I have that problem brake light is on and the ABS light is on and I hear that noise is that an expensive job to replace
I changed both parts and need bleeding and calibration with toyota scan tool... Is this tool expensive? Can I rent it from Toyota? What is your recommendation for moving forward?
@@TheYotaChannel When I say intermittently the car gave me a code Sunday I think, but it shut off until today. I drove it around 300 miles since Sunday and today this morning it started to do it more often about every 20 minutes or so. Light on for about 10-20 mins then off for 10-20 mins. 🤷♂️
@@shoaibgulshan6860 It’s the speed sensors. Get and OBD tool (go to autozone they’ll do it free) and scan the codes. The codes I got was c1235 and c1464. The speed sensor in the front was just dirty I cleaned it with alcohol. It’s very easy to remove and clean. Then just get another Obd scan and see if the codes are gone. If not, you have to replace the sensors. Which again is very simple to do. I also got a code c1239 which says foreign matter in rear sensor, that one is a little more complicated, but still very easy to do. I will do that one this week and let you know. Let me know if you want me to help.
Hi sir I have Toyota Prius 2013 We have replaced brake booster pump as we have all lits come up with beep noise. Now brakes works fine but some time it give me above warning lights as show in this video lights comes and goes. I do have a spare for accumulator do we have to change the accumulator as well to fix the problem any solution for the issue is helpful am based in nz Appreciate your help
Hey brother i replace my abs pump only ,and my car star now with out pressing the brake pedal , cant delete the abs code . I don't have scanner to reprogram or need to take to the dealer.
Yea, it needs to be calibrated. And the brake swith at the brake pedal might be misadjusted, hence why the car is starting without having to depress the brake pedal.
Ok my abs and skid light 💡 t on after I replace the front cv axles I don’t hear that noise you said but my alignment is off that triggers those light to come on as well buy I noticed my brake pedal is a bit saggy now and AB’s makes a cono noise when I brake hard. ??
Hey, I have a Toyota Prius 2011 and the ABS light and traction control light are perpetually on and they keep beeping. When I press the break pedal the break is not strong enough. Would you be able to help? I also have a video of it- do you have an email address I could send it to?
Hey, it sounds like you are experiencing the exact concern found in the video. Try and scan the vehicle and see if DTC C1391 is stored in the computer.
Hey my friend. I have a 2010 Prius base and recently began having ABS light issue. I did some research and found that the culprit is the booster and actuator pump. I did my checks of the car and there are no leaks, the brakes still work and are not mushy. Fluid reservoir shows max, however it is making the the humming sound while the car is running and 2 - 3 mins after turning off. After watching your video, it looks like something I can tackle but not having the Toyota scan tool to do the bleeding is the problem. I've been checking in my local area and no one seems to want to tackle this and keep directing me to the dealership, or just sell/ get rid of it, which we know going to the dealership means getting raped. So my question is, if there isn't a leak and the pump is try to build pressure, can the pump and the lines just be bleed to stop trying to build pressure? If not, what other alternative is there? Can you fly out and fix my car? 😁
Toyota of Clermont FL replaced mine under warranty 14k miles ago and it's back to failing. Pump runs very often and for a long time when it's restarted after sitting for a few hours... should it be covered under warranty still with only 14k on the new part?
Hi sir I have Toyota Prius 2013 We have replaced brake booster pump as we have all lits come up with beep noise. Now brakes works fine but some time it give me above warning lights as show in this video lights comes and goes. I do have a spare for accumulator do we have to change the accumulator as well to fix the problem any solution for the issue is helpful am based in nz
To add did scan received below codes C1241 Low or High Power Supply Voltage C1252 Brake Booster Pump Motor on Time Abnormally Long C1253 Pump Motor Relay C1256 ACCumulator Low Pressure
Hey, the first thing you should confirm is if you have the correct part number brake actuator installed. You can do that by taking your VIN number to a Toyota parts department and aske them to verify if the part you installed is the correct part number. The second thing is, if you do have the correct part number installed, have the dealer do a bleed and calibration and yaw rate sensor calibration with a TOYOTA SCAN TOOL and let them know you already replaced the actuator and pump.
@@TheYotaChannel I wrote ya a few messages about the 2010 Prius ABS LIGHT ON ABD SKID LIGHT ON THIS HAPPENED AFTER I REPLACED CV AXLES CODE SAYS ABS LIGHT SENSOR ON IVE REPLACE THE SENSOR LIGHT STILL ON NOW BRAKE PEDAL IS A BIT SPONG I DONT FEEL THE ABS WORKING MAKES A CLANKY NOISE IF I BRAKE TO HARD ANY SUGGESTIONS
@theyotachannel For a Toyota 2015 Prius, what would be an estimated ballpark price for how much this could cost? 100 to 300 or 300 to 500 or 500 to 1,000?
Thank you for the video. I am having the C 1391 code on a 2010 Prius and this was the first video I’ve seen that explained it could possibly be a leak in the brake system. What city do you do work out of?
Hello, I did a brake job on My 2010 Toyota Prius and the Brake light- Traction light goes off. I came across your video and my Toyota does not do that accumulator noise(No Buzz) I can take off the light temporarily with the scanner but it comes back on. I changed the left scanner (C205 code). No leaks, brake fluid is good? Can you give me any advice? If I need a hard reset how do I do that?
I have a 2011, changed the abs actuator and brake booster. Code disappeared, all monitors up Drove about 100 miles and all 3 lights came back on again. No code, but lights are on. Any suggestions?
I bled it but I did not calibrate. Not sure how to, or that it was even a requirement. As soon as I connected everything all the lights went off. Now it's making the same noise as before with the pump working after vehicle is turned off
@@alberez9605 did you replace both with new and used parts? I believe most of the pro scan tool and do the calibration. My mechanic said he can do the calibration with his Autel scan tool
Thanks for the video I have a 2010 134k miles The lights on 😮. What is the name of the piece that is buzz ? Can be replaced for a used it ? Or what you think Thanks one again
Hey, the part that you hear buzzing is called the brake actuator pump. I don't recommend buying a used one, only new from Toyota. Also, make sure to order with VIN number to ensure you get the correct parts.
The actuator is bad because of the internal leak it has, and the booster pumps run continuously to try and keep it at a certain pressure. That's why you get that consistent buzzing sound
Thanks...my brake fluid was very low and my lights went on ...I put some brake fluid in and the lights went off.. what do you think ? does the punp go out and drains the fluid? this is the first time I refilled the brake fluid.
Hello Sir, I have a Toyota Prius 2012 model and it has 183k miles on it. I have the same issues. The brake, abs, check engine light is on and it keep making the buzz noise. I took it to the Toyota dealership and they said something about a code C1301 and they said to replace brake booster and pump. They quoted 3500usd plus tax for it. I drove the car but the brake doesn’t seem to respond timely. What should I do? Is there any other way that I can do it cheaper? Please HELP!
It seems to be skid related communication issue with ECU. before the expensive replacement it's better to check fuses and relays. Don't listen to the dealer before diagnostic the issue. Do a scan and measure the voltages.
Estou com esse defeito aqui no Brasil 😢😢😢, só trocando a peça e os custos ultrapassam a metade do valor do carro, o carro custa R$65.000,00 e as peças custam R$33.000,00😅😢😢😢😢😢
The internal leak in the brake master cylinder is the source of the light. And because it can't maintain the pressure, the pumps continuously run and make the buzzing sound
My 2010 Prius only has 100k miles on it and I already have this issue. If that is not all the hybrid battery also with error code. 100k miles!!!!! Frankly I f. hate Toyota unreliability at this low miles. If that is not all the steering wheel material is falling off like snow flake; i am talking about the handle material. I will never buy a Toyota again. I have not mentioned the expensive parts and labors to fix these issues. Toyota quality and reliability my ass!!!!!!!
Same issue over here, brother. Wow thank you so much , you're a blessing to all of us prius guys!
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback.
@@TheYotaChannelI’m dealing with a first time mystery ABS warning lights and buzzing on a 2007 Prius !
While driving on the highway, ABS buzzing lights came on.. Voltage on my 12 volts battery started dropping down to 10.4 volts while driving.. Got off the highway and got worse stiff steering and braking and car shutdown !
At that point the voltage on the 12 volts battery is showing 7 volts… Could a malfunctioning ABS actuator overload the 12 volts battery and drain it ?
I have c1391 code and dash warning lights. I have someone lined up to to the necessary repairs, but they are 60 miles away. The brakes feel mushy, but they still seem to function. Is it ok to drive there or should I have it towed? Thanks!
Hey, yes, you can still drive it. I wouldn't recommend highway driving. Drive it when it's not so busy in your area and keep a good distance between you and the car in front.
@@TheYotaChannelthanks!
Thanks for sharing I bought a used 2011 Prius and I have that problem brake light is on and the ABS light is on and I hear that noise is that an expensive job to replace
Same issues how much is it to fix the issue
I changed both parts and need bleeding and calibration with toyota scan tool... Is this tool expensive? Can I rent it from Toyota? What is your recommendation for moving forward?
Thanks for the video. Had the same problem. Replaced with new actuator/pump and still have all the lights on. Any ideas?
Hey, after replacement, it requires bleeding and calibration with a Toyota scan tool. Have you calibrated it with the Toyota scan tool?
th-cam.com/video/uRiAm-bA-hc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xwAXt0XB_K_2__xX
Thanks man. I'll be watching for your videos
Thank you 🤝🤝🤝
How to remove leak😢
How much would this run at the dealership?
I have the same issue, but the lights come on and off randomly. Traction control turns on also by itself.
What year is your prius?
@@TheYotaChannel 2012 Prius C.
@@TheYotaChannel When I say intermittently the car gave me a code Sunday I think, but it shut off until today. I drove it around 300 miles since Sunday and today this morning it started to do it more often about every 20 minutes or so. Light on for about 10-20 mins then off for 10-20 mins. 🤷♂️
Same mine
@@shoaibgulshan6860 It’s the speed sensors. Get and OBD tool (go to autozone they’ll do it free) and scan the codes.
The codes I got was c1235 and c1464. The speed sensor in the front was just dirty I cleaned it with alcohol. It’s very easy to remove and clean. Then just get another Obd scan and see if the codes are gone. If not, you have to replace the sensors. Which again is very simple to do.
I also got a code c1239 which says foreign matter in rear sensor, that one is a little more complicated, but still very easy to do. I will do that one this week and let you know. Let me know if you want me to help.
Hi sir I have Toyota Prius 2013
We have replaced brake booster pump as we have all lits come up with beep noise. Now brakes works fine but some time it give me above warning lights as show in this video lights comes and goes. I do have a spare for accumulator do we have to change the accumulator as well to fix the problem any solution for the issue is helpful am based in nz
Appreciate your help
Hey brother i replace my abs pump only ,and my car star now with out pressing the brake pedal , cant delete the abs code .
I don't have scanner to reprogram or need to take to the dealer.
Yea, it needs to be calibrated. And the brake swith at the brake pedal might be misadjusted, hence why the car is starting without having to depress the brake pedal.
You will need a Toyota scanner, and the codes will not clear without the calibration.
Thank you my friend really appreciate.@@TheYotaChannel
Ok my abs and skid light 💡 t on after I replace the front cv axles I don’t hear that noise you said but my alignment is off that triggers those light to come on as well buy I noticed my brake pedal is a bit saggy now and AB’s makes a cono noise when I brake hard. ??
did you ever fix it? I got the same issue after replacing cv axles
Hey, I have a Toyota Prius 2011 and the ABS light and traction control light are perpetually on and they keep beeping. When I press the break pedal the break is not strong enough. Would you be able to help? I also have a video of it- do you have an email address I could send it to?
Hey, it sounds like you are experiencing the exact concern found in the video. Try and scan the vehicle and see if DTC C1391 is stored in the computer.
great video! love it
Hey my friend. I have a 2010 Prius base and recently began having ABS light issue. I did some research and found that the culprit is the booster and actuator pump. I did my checks of the car and there are no leaks, the brakes still work and are not mushy. Fluid reservoir shows max, however it is making the the humming sound while the car is running and 2 - 3 mins after turning off. After watching your video, it looks like something I can tackle but not having the Toyota scan tool to do the bleeding is the problem. I've been checking in my local area and no one seems to want to tackle this and keep directing me to the dealership, or just sell/ get rid of it, which we know going to the dealership means getting raped. So my question is, if there isn't a leak and the pump is try to build pressure, can the pump and the lines just be bleed to stop trying to build pressure? If not, what other alternative is there? Can you fly out and fix my car? 😁
Hie bro changed accumulator but is making noise is there a way to solve this Aqua hybrid 2011
Toyota of Clermont FL replaced mine under warranty 14k miles ago and it's back to failing. Pump runs very often and for a long time when it's restarted after sitting for a few hours... should it be covered under warranty still with only 14k on the new part?
Hi sir I have Toyota Prius 2013
We have replaced brake booster pump as we have all lits come up with beep noise. Now brakes works fine but some time it give me above warning lights as show in this video lights comes and goes. I do have a spare for accumulator do we have to change the accumulator as well to fix the problem any solution for the issue is helpful am based in nz
To add did scan received below codes
C1241
Low or High Power Supply Voltage
C1252
Brake Booster Pump Motor on Time Abnormally Long
C1253
Pump Motor Relay
C1256
ACCumulator Low Pressure
Hey, the first thing you should confirm is if you have the correct part number brake actuator installed. You can do that by taking your VIN number to a Toyota parts department and aske them to verify if the part you installed is the correct part number.
The second thing is, if you do have the correct part number installed, have the dealer do a bleed and calibration and yaw rate sensor calibration with a TOYOTA SCAN TOOL and let them know you already replaced the actuator and pump.
@@TheYotaChannel
@@TheYotaChannel I wrote ya a few messages about the 2010 Prius ABS LIGHT ON ABD SKID LIGHT ON THIS HAPPENED AFTER I REPLACED CV AXLES CODE SAYS ABS LIGHT SENSOR ON IVE REPLACE THE SENSOR LIGHT STILL ON NOW BRAKE PEDAL IS A BIT SPONG I DONT FEEL THE ABS WORKING MAKES A CLANKY NOISE IF I BRAKE TO HARD ANY SUGGESTIONS
@theyotachannel
For a Toyota 2015 Prius, what would be an estimated ballpark price for how much this could cost? 100 to 300 or 300 to 500 or 500 to 1,000?
Thank you for the video. I am having the C 1391 code on a 2010 Prius and this was the first video I’ve seen that explained it could possibly be a leak in the brake system. What city do you do work out of?
Hello, I did a brake job on My 2010 Toyota Prius and the Brake light- Traction light goes off. I came across your video and my Toyota does not do that accumulator noise(No Buzz) I can take off the light temporarily with the scanner but it comes back on. I changed the left scanner (C205 code). No leaks, brake fluid is good? Can you give me any advice? If I need a hard reset how do I do that?
hey bro , i got problem with abs , i don’t here sound like that , but my break pedal like dough. Is it same problem or what ? Thank you !
Hey what year model is it and how many miles
I have the same car, 2011 and when I apply brakes, it sounds like tiking even when car is off. Do you think that’s also the abs? Thank you!
They dont make a tick sound. They make more of a buzz sound. The tickin might be coming from the pads or rotors.
Wow, excellent work! BTW, when we hear the sound, it means actuator is bad or pump is bad or both? Thank you very much!
The actuator is bad. It's unable to hold pressure internally, and because it can't, the pump continuously runs to maintain the pressure.
@@TheYotaChannel thank you very much!
I have a 2011, changed the abs actuator and brake booster. Code disappeared, all monitors up
Drove about 100 miles and all 3 lights came back on again.
No code, but lights are on. Any suggestions?
Hey, did you bleed and calibrate with scan tool?
I bled it but I did not calibrate. Not sure how to, or that it was even a requirement. As soon as I connected everything all the lights went off.
Now it's making the same noise as before with the pump working after vehicle is turned off
@@alberez9605 did you replace both with new and used parts? I believe most of the pro scan tool and do the calibration. My mechanic said he can do the calibration with his Autel scan tool
Thanks for the video
I have a 2010 134k miles
The lights on 😮.
What is the name of the piece that is buzz ?
Can be replaced for a used it ? Or what you think
Thanks one again
Hey, the part that you hear buzzing is called the brake actuator pump. I don't recommend buying a used one, only new from Toyota. Also, make sure to order with VIN number to ensure you get the correct parts.
Do you need only the pump to fix?
excellent video. . huge help.. thank you
No problem, anytime.
In this case , is the booster bad or the actuator ?
The actuator is bad because of the internal leak it has, and the booster pumps run continuously to try and keep it at a certain pressure. That's why you get that consistent buzzing sound
Do you only need to replace the actuator then?
Thanks...my brake fluid was very low and my lights went on ...I put some brake fluid in and the lights went off.. what do you think
? does the punp go out and drains the fluid? this is the first time I refilled the brake fluid.
It's not common for the brake fluid reservoir to be low. Are you low on brake pads? Front and rear? any external leaks?
If I hear the noice, but my brake fluid was almost at the minimum line. Could it still be the actuator or do I have a leak?
Yes, it could still be the actuator. If it was below the minimum line or empty, it would indicate an outside leak.
Do i need to change the Actuator or the Abs pump if i have that buzzing sound?
Hello I installed these parts, but I got all the codes on the dash any way to remove them?
You need a Toyota scanner to bleed and calibrate. Ask your local dealer for a quote on just calibration and bleeding since you already did the install
I have 13 prius plug in with 181000 miles on it, and got code c1391. Do i have to replaced both items to fix the problem or one of them?
Hello Sir, I have a Toyota Prius 2012 model and it has 183k miles on it. I have the same issues. The brake, abs, check engine light is on and it keep making the buzz noise. I took it to the Toyota dealership and they said something about a code C1301 and they said to replace brake booster and pump. They quoted 3500usd plus tax for it. I drove the car but the brake doesn’t seem to respond timely. What should I do? Is there any other way that I can do it cheaper? Please HELP!
It seems to be skid related communication issue with ECU. before the expensive replacement it's better to check fuses and relays. Don't listen to the dealer before diagnostic the issue. Do a scan and measure the voltages.
How much is this same fix at a dealership for a 2013 Prius? Thank you!
5hr labor. As far as the parts, im not sure about the price.
How do you fix it tho ? How do you stop the noise ?
You need to replace the ABS actuator. Check out the video i made on how to replace one.
@@TheYotaChannelhow much is this to fix?
Great video!!
Thank you
So it keeps buzzing even when the car is off?
That's a sign of it going bad. The pump will continuously run to maintain the pressure inside, but it can't achieve that because of the internal leak.
This is awesome!!
Thanks for helpful information
Estou com esse defeito aqui no Brasil 😢😢😢, só trocando a peça e os custos ultrapassam a metade do valor do carro, o carro custa R$65.000,00 e as peças custam R$33.000,00😅😢😢😢😢😢
How much is the total cost of the labour and the part as well? Thank you
5hr labor. As far as the price of the parts, im not sure. If i come across another one, I'll note down the price and update you.
This just happened to me yesterday 😫
Can I just change and the pump?
No, the pump will continuously run because of the internal leak in the brake master cylinder
The internal leak in the brake master cylinder is the source of the light. And because it can't maintain the pressure, the pumps continuously run and make the buzzing sound
My 2010 Prius only has 100k miles on it and I already have this issue. If that is not all the hybrid battery also with error code. 100k miles!!!!! Frankly I f. hate Toyota unreliability at this low miles. If that is not all the steering wheel material is falling off like snow flake; i am talking about the handle material.
I will never buy a Toyota again. I have not mentioned the expensive parts and labors to fix these issues. Toyota quality and reliability my ass!!!!!!!
my 2011 prius with 81K has C1252, C1253, C1256 and most likely need both parts so not sure if I am going to keep the car.
Good thing I hate😮 to see grandmom getting run over by A Prius
You talk to much