Rook a cheap mostly 3D printed CoreXY printer - Build Tips Part 2 - Heat Inserts, Bearings, Frame
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2022
- Part one of my assembly video of the Rook mostly printed CoreXY 3d printer!
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For me, the most beautiful thing about this design is that the linear rods act as a frame. I love small 3d printers and an idea like this makes me so happy. I will definitely follow the improvement progress of this printer :)
Yeah agree on the linear rod as the main vertical support and also guide👍. Keep to your main theme cheap but still performs. I would not go corexy prefer croXy with all rods no linear rails.
I love how low the part count is. Only a few 3D printed parts - great stuff
This is an amazing and fun project that can teach someone a lot about 3D printer design and software (Klipper). What I'd love to see is a step by step guide (manual) on putting everything together -- something that would enable even a total newbie to make it happen. I think you're doing excellent work so keep it coming!
I love the color of this rook...thanks for the tips
Oh I love this design a lot!
I will probably make an entry to coreXY printers with a build of this one i think. Sounds like a vood, yet simple base to build and learn the whole construction and configuration of the printer.
Thank you!
Loved the bolt and flat metal tip on the heated insert!
Thanks for this great update and tips! The bed attachment was my biggest question up till now.
Love this printer and am going to build one. Awesome content as always.
Nice tip on the heat inserts. Wish I'd known that sooner... I'd have a lot less squeaking bolts
Can't wait to get started on this!
This looks amazing
Stopped to check out the new Rook vid... Went away knowing how to properly set brass insert nuts.
Oddly enough, I had ordered a set a week ago. They show up tomorrow :-)
Super Cool!
Thanks. Going to follow this build. My vzbot should be done this week. After it's printing in going to start the rook printed parts.
Good idea on installing the heat inserts.
great videos and answered lots of questions people had
thanks!
I use my machinist square to to flatten heat set inserts we well. It works great. I never thought to keep them aligned with a bolt though, that's clever.
PTFE grease is the best! That's my favorite stuff, got it from a local supplier
Pretty incredible design. I feel when you can manufacture a machine around $100 to $150 people will go crazy for this. $200+ is just over the average tinker budget.
my rook is printing very nicely! but i think i will reprint the parts in abs just because my tevo tornado is printing it so well now.
Instead of taking the carriage off the linear rail, you can use a syringe and inject the grease from the backside of the carriage through of one of the rail mounts. You will see the lube seep out through the ball bearings and you won’t risk losing balls
yes that is probably the best way
I prefer light machine oil for my rails , i reapply every 3-6 months & also u can clean the dust and floff of the light oil way easier than grease .
Your heat set inserts should ideally be pushed in a little further, as you notice theres a small lip where the plastic isn't surrounding the insert at the top. If you pushed it in a little further, you will get full coverage around the insert. Remember, these are not injection moulded parts, so you're not gonna get proper adhesion around the full insert when it's perfectly level, like you would with proper injection moulding.
I find if the heated insert is hot enough there is no lip, the plastic is flush with the insert
Are there any environmentally friendly alternatives to Super Lube? I hate to add more PTFE microparticles to the world. But most greases stink and that's no good either.
I have not looked for any, it would be nice to have more grease that is environmentally friendly
will there be a version with belted z axis so it's only one stepper?
I might try something like that
Which SuperLube do you recommend? There's at least two different NGL part numbers
21030
So total how many f695 bearings for the total BOM? 4 per tower so total 8 now? The BOM on the github still indicate 4
I believe it is updated should be 16 total
Did the design originally have threaded inserts? If not what was the reasoning behind switching to them? Do you think screws can be threaded directly into the frame instead?
The design always used threaded inserts for key items. They are needed for the linear rails, motor mounts and idler towers
Hi Rolo, just wondering what size bed is on the printer that you use to make the large parts ? Thanks
I use my bambu x1 carbon but a ender 3 will work
@@Rolohaun Hi, I was just wondering that, are all your printers using a 300 x 300 bed then ?, I was looking for one with a 400 x 400 bed so I can print large parts
@acestu 300x300 are too big for my space so I don't use them
where do i find this version of this printer with the lead screws on z axis all i can find is the belt drive z axis ?
github.com/rolohaun/Rook/tree/main/Legacy
6:31 I got an stupid Idea: Inductive Coil Divice wich only Heats up the Metric nut. Are souch small Inductive Coils on the Market?
that would be cool!
do you have any plans to add a bltouch?
There really isn't room but I think there might be some users on the discord doing that
Has anyone worked out how much the parts and filament costs for The Rook?
the BOM is around 250USD if everything is new, an entire Rook is less than a roll of filament
4:24 PLEASE DO NOT USE PTFE GREASE FOR LINEAR RODS OR BEARINGS! When used with bearings that have balls, the tiny ptfe balls will eventually bunch up and jam the rails. A thin oil or grease with no additives is the best for this application.
I do not think this is true, Super lube says you can use this on linear rails, Voron community also recommends this
@@Rolohaun I feel like this is a hard topic because some say you can and others that you can't. From my knowledge (that comes mostly from linear motion manufacturers) you should NOT use it. Here are some statements:
- "It’s also important to ensure that grease lubricants do not contain solid additives, such as PTFE (Teflon), MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide), or graphite. While solid lubricants and additives are suitable for sliding contact bearings, they can cause significant damage to the surfaces of rolling bearing elements."
- "Greases used in linear guides are typically lithium-based greases, with no solid additives such as MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide) or PTFE (Teflon)."
I have to say the intro does neither fit in style or appearance nor in sound effects. I really stopped watching your videos as the intro just makes one deaf and it is so shocking. Apart from that IMHO it looks like a sound clip art chosen by a teenager. No offense here. Anyway I'd love to see a more fitting and less SFX style intro.
What a snow flake! Rolohaun, everything in ur videos are awesome.
thanks for the feedback
Imagine stopping following such talented creator as Rolohaun because you don't like intro clip which creator chose... Seems like you're teenager over here. Big respect to Rolohaun for knowledge and expertise.