Creality Ender 3 V2 - Solving Under-extrusion To Save You Hours
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ค. 2024
- This video is specific to the Ender 3 V2. It seems that there is one major flaw with the machine when it arrives, hopefully they'll fix it down the line. This video shows the various checks to see where the problem is and it explains what you need to do to fix it. Also check the links below for detailed information on the exact process. I did not cover that part in the video as there are already good videos out on the subject.
If you'd like to become a patron to help this channel grow and get involved with future video ideas, here is the link: / needitmakeit
If you have under-extrusion and you're not sure what is causing it I'm hoping that this video solves the problem for you and saves you some time and frustration.
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#3Dprinting
#Bowflex - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
i literally changed 5 nozzles so far thinking its a clogging issue and now only using 0.8 mm nozzle to print coz i want the thing to be done. man you saved a lot of time... true engineer
Reeetweet
Appreciate the help! For me it was tightening/loosening screws on the extruder, as you advised in the video. Now I have to go and "undo" all the other crap I did trying to troubleshoot on my own as a newbie.
We've all been there, I just went down the rabbit hole the other day myself. It turned out to be an issue with Cura not liking the settings I had chosen for a part I've printed many times before with different settings, I had never seen the problem before on any part, a change to the layer thickness solved the glitch.
It does take quite a bit of experience to efficiently problem solve... the "oh I know exactly what that is" will come with time.
@@NeedItMakeIt absolutely. I think the best advice you provided was the process of troubleshooting step by step. I just wasn’t in that mindset, I got fixated on one issue I was sure was the problem(bed leveling). Honestly this was the first video I saw to get me in that mindset, others just throw tons of potential issues at the viewer without any process of “troubleshooting.” Without a troubleshooting process, it’s easy to get fixated on something you’ve had issues with before, even when it clearly isn’t the problem. Human brain things man.
I appreciate the reply and video, stay safe and happy new year!
Keep up the great work!
@@Ryan-cd9mt Thanks for the support! Happy new year to you as well!
I have an Ender 3 V1 and this still helped me fix my problem! Had to adjust the spring pressure on the feeder. Never would have found this on my own.
One other issue I ran into while testing was the bowden tube length, if they are too short you'll get under extrusion and clogging as well, the tighter rads seem to cause jams in some situations. I was having major problems with the 10" tube, swapped it for the 14" and never a problem since. Glad it helped!
Just commenting to push your video closer to the top of the search list as it's the most succinct and straight forward one I've found
Awesome, much appreciated. I have since discovered another method without the need for a firmware upgrade if this interests you. Some simple coding required.
@@NeedItMakeIt This one got me sorted, much appreciated :-)
Thanks very much - so helpful. None of the other suggestions from various websites worked but pointing the way to the transmission E setting fixed my printing probs!
Barely ever comment, but this 3 year old video was a lifesaver. Thank you.
Thank you! I couldn't figure out why I was getting issues with under extrusion even though I calibrated the e-steps when I got my new extruder. I had the same issue where the steps weren't actually saved to the printer itself!
To get the correct settings for extruding I measured 10mm of filament from the extruder towards to spool and made a mark. Then I manually set it to extrude 10mm, from there I measured how much extruded from the mark and changed the settings to compensate.
Repeat till it extrudes correctly.
mine was 14mm off lol
Thank you very much it works beautifully I’ve been dealing with this issue for quite some time
Thank you!!! I was having this problem with my Ender 3v2 and my nephews also... this fixed us both and made a huge difference in our print quality!
No problem, a pretty serious problem as far as 3D printer problems go. I'm glad they had the fix out for it.
You can have a similar issue if the extruder has been mounted too close to the Z-screw. The filament can periodically drag on the Z and have varying resistance - in turn this slows the rate and under extrusion will occur. This is an excellent video with the step-by-step approach.
I've not heard this before. I have had problems with the bowden tube being too short and a very tight rad would occur in the tube periodically causing extruder skipping and sometimes failure, I keep the tube around 14 and that seems to work well.
@@NeedItMakeIt well I encountered it today. And in trying to figure out what was causing ut I started searching and found your video. I ruled everything out I could find online. So I had to look to other causes and then figured out what was happening with the Z screw drag, resolved it and then passed along the info :)
Great video. Many thanks. Have been struggleling for long time
I'm definitely way late for the initial posting but this helped me tons in figuring out the real issue. Such a simple solution and I was way overhinking it. 😂
U SAVED MY LIFE !!!!! REALY THANK U
yeah your a life saver, my problem was on my ender 3 (not pro) and it was called e steps but i had the same problem on my other printer and you just helped fix them both!!!!
Perfect video so informative! I found a problem before your video so that wasnt help, but for future it is great to know what everything else can do under extrusion.. My problem was in extruder pressure so i bought dual metal extruder and its ok :-)
That's great thanks for the comment! I've had another problem as well after this video, I tested a short tube 10", it was too short and caused the filament to bind on occasion and ruin multiple prints. 14" is a good length.
The storage configuration button is a save setting button I believe, it makes a different beep when clicking it
Lol, I have gone through the same steps as you did and couldnt figure it out for the life of me. Cheers friend, have a great weekend.
Hi thank you for this video
Having a similar problem with the sidewalls of my Parts separating
Saved my life. Thank you
I haven't had any issues for a while so I think I figured out what was wrong with mine. I'll post here in case anyone else finds it useful.
My extruder spring was too tight, which caused issues with certain prints and filaments. This tight spring resulted in the filament outright flattening and get stuck/slowing down substantially in the Bowden Tubing. This lead to slippage of the gear, which lead to more flattening and sometimes completely severing the filament at the gear, which cause no extrusion and a failed print.
How I fixed it was by just untightening the screw at the extruder gear until it was slipping from too little force and tightening it with a half turn. Later I tightened it slightly more with harder filament. Maybe like a 1/8th or 1/4 turn.
Hope this helps!
Thank you, this helped me alot your awesome
@@thijswessels2267 No Problem, I'm glad it helped someone!
I had the same problem with my ender 3 pro and marlin 2.0.7. I had to download sources from github and now it works. At this moment I have problem with turning off power during pause, but I'll try to fix it in the code
Checking the diameter of the filament.
Feed calibration (number of steps per mm. measurement of the number of steps for feeding 10cm for example).
Flow calibration (printing single wall test hollow cubes without lid and measuring wall thickness).
What are you printing?
I see you are always making this part in your videos.
thanks for the heads up, my firmware is 1.0.2!!!! Just got this printer a couple days ago!
You have the latest Creality firmware and I believe he has the Marlin firmware
@@gregolgratis which one is better? I also have the creality one with the bltouch,.
@@FerCerealz I personally updated to the latest version of Marlin from here marlin.crc.id.au/ (10$ a year subscription). He has a BLTouch version and he updates very often. Just check you control board version before (4.2.2 vs 4.2.7)
I use Jyers FW with my Ender 3 V2, are you just talking about setting e steps? I have never seen the ratios you show but 93.0 is the default e steps set by creality I think. And they need to really look at their EEPROM confusion...Anyway fixing e steps def did not solve my under extrusion inaccurate prints poor bridging wrenching out scalp hairs issue but i am hoping the much more involved and painful fixing binding might, because I have narrowed it down to that pretty much
I unfortunately had a hardware failure. that arm that holds the bearing to the filament got a crack in it and I only found out when I took the extruder apart. Looked completely normal from above. I recommend the metal extruder upgrade.
I went through the same steps. Replaced my hot end too. Bought a filament dehydrator box to run my filament straight in from the side and also in case my filament was "wet". Still printed exact same. Bought a new filament roll. Still the same.
I think my printer is underextruding too. It will stick halfway through the first layer, then it sticks off and on. If the first layer completes, it stops sticking about a centimeter up.
Thanks for advise man, I have the nozle problem and i try to solve it. the first one died after i started scraching the bed even with the right distance from it... Your advise is very useful
The best advice for this problem is to never move your printer. I learned hard lessons with my Anet A8, any movement of the printer would throw off the level and it was a terrible machine to re-level. The Ender is much better, still I only move it if I have to. Each time I move it, the bed still needs to be leveled a little bit. Are you running with a glass build-plate? As far as the nozzle, is it clogged, normally when the nozzle goes too low the bed springs come into action and allow for the bed to lower slightly, helps also with rapid movements over infill or over that first rough top layer.
Well detailed. Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment!
Jyers firmware is the way to go for ender 3 v2, I use it and not only it resumes after power failure but it also supports abl and filament runout sensor. It's the most worth it upgrade.
Where’s the links to the more detailed you said?
Something I found was that the gear that feeds the filament was loose, and wasnt align to the other guide. So it wouldnt feed correctly.
there are flow rate settings in most slicers. dial that up and that can fix your issue as well.
Yes for sure, I do like to try to get mine setup to as close to accurate extrusion as possible so I can leave the software set to 99 or 100.
I am hoping you can answer a question. I have a similar situation where my printer would be in a cabinet and I like your spool mounting and am considering the same. My question though is how tall the Ender 3 V2 is from the shelf to the top of the crossbar. The specs say that it is something like 650mm, but I think that may include the spool holder? Could you be so kind as to measure the height to the top of the crossbar without the spool holder in place? Thank you very much and your video was very informative.
Hi, the dimension from bottom of the feet to top of the cross-bar at the top is 477mm or 18 3/4". When I was using ABS I had to change the spool location, sometimes the heat in the cabinet was affecting the filament and causing it to feed poorly through the extruder gear. Outside of the cabinet seems to work well for all filaments so I just mounted it to a piece of wood. I will be designing and printing some with bearings included to reduce the force needed to feed, and probably upgrading to the dual gear also. Glad you found the video helpful!
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you! I greatly appreciate you taking the time to respond and provide other helpful info. This is low enough to fit into my cabinet, though I will need to mount the spool in an alternate location, something like you did in the video. Again, my thanks. Your response was a huge help and I like the spool setup you are using. Take care...
On my old CR10 the issue seemed to be caused by an insufficient front cooling fan which meant that heat was creeping too far past the heatsync. So I was getting clogs in the Bowden tube near the hotend.
It can also be caused by the well known Bowden tube issue where the Bowden is not cut perfectly flat and is not fully pushed as far as possible into the hotend.
I can't say I've had problems with heat creep on any of my printers, but it is something to keep in mind for any hot end changes that one might make. Can the fan be too powerful? The Ender3 v2 has a very noisy fan, but I believe the shroud contains the flow somewhat and I also think it give a poor view of the printing as well. Why not make a clear shroud? The bowden problem I think is an area they need to focus some attention, those couplers/adapets are not made very well and there is some slop. over time the movement seems to wear the ends of the bowden tube away and will cause a potentially major fail. I took one of the adapters apart the other day and I found 3 small steel spring knives that dig into the tube and a sloppy fit for the tube into the connector, not too impressed with that.
Great points by the way, thank you!
@@NeedItMakeIt I have two CR10S’ and an Ender3 Pro. Under extrusion was an issue until I replaced the plastic extruder with an all metal one. Had to replace the spring that came with it but it’s more dependable now when using various slicer settings. Heat creep and nozzle clogs are consistent problems with all of my machines, especially on larger/longer prints. I’m tempted to get a V2 like yours but with constant nozzle clogs on my current machines, I don’t want to make replacing the nozzle and bowden tube more difficult with the new hotend cover. Also I agree with you about not being able to see the hotend fan. A clear cover like you mentioned would be much nicer. I think they went with the smaller holes in the V2 cover to try to mitigate the issue with stringing getting sucked up into the hotend fan causing it to slow and possibly eventually fail. In my opinion Creality should try harder to resolve these known and common issues before worrying about things like tension knobs and tool drawers. If price wasn’t an issue I’d love to have a Prusa but hard to buy one Prusa over two CR10’s or 4 Ender3 Pros. Overall I am happy with my Creality printers though, just wish they’d try harder to fix known issues like the ones you’ve pointed out. PS - Thanks for the great video and please keep them coming. You are very well spoken!
@@3dbronze I agree completely, I suppose they were focused on looks rather than function. I can't say I've had any heat creep problems yet, I have had a nozzle clog that stumped me for a day due to using CF-PETG without being equipped properly for it (I believe I am now). I have also been investigating the tubes themselves and it looks like there is more to the Capricorn tubing than what I knew only a few weeks ago. The cheaper tubes will melt at a lower temp... degrade and allow half-melted filament to flow into that cavity which then causes the extruder to work harder to push filament through and eventually it will come back looking like a nozzle clog. Melted PTFE is also poison so I didn't mind spending $15 for the good stuff. The one I've purchased is rated UP to 350C.
I have considered upgrading the fan it is very loud and the cover design doesn't help. To your point a fan mounted higher would be better to keep debris away, that's a good consideration.
I have another video coming soon, and one right after that which are more general solutions, though I am applying them to my printer. Thank you very much BTW, love the detailed comments!
Do you have experience printing CF filaments? If so, any advice?
How long did you have the printer before the problem arose?
I'm trying to fix this on a friend's printer that they just got, I have the pro they got the V2, but the under extrusion is also only happening on the infill and every couple layers. Hopefully this is the problem, I've not had this problem with my own two printers.
i cant figure out why my ender 2 keep failing to extrude mid-print. everything is trammed(leveled, wtv) and im using an mks gen l v2.1 board with tmc2208s, a titan direct extruder and volcano hot end combo. running klipper firmware, using mainsailOS. been scratching my head quite a bit as to the why. any pointers would be appreciated
Great video!
What do I do when the filament is not even extruding at all? Thanks very much for this
I wonder why this happens, I have to increase flow to 130% and I also noticed a change in color. I was using blue overture and at 100% flow on a new printer it was dark blue, and at 130% on the printer having under extrusion issues the color is slightly lighter dark blue. All printers used are the E3v2.
I’m so excited to try this when I get home. I just got my ender 3 v2 and I haven’t had a successful print since I got it. I have tried so many different things and I think this is the fix for me.
Sooo.. Did it work?
@@moldusgaming7282 yes but ultimately I switched extruders and firmware for better prints. I’m currently running a Creality Sprite head with Marlin 2.0.1 firmware.
Where do I get the new firmware? I have Ender 3 Pro similar problem.
thanks
I’d like to request a how to for printing small parts. I have a .02 nozzle and can make it work but it’s not that great. Thanks for the content. ✌️
That sounds like a great challenge. I've never had great success with small nozzles and most of my prints are structural so I changed pretty quickly to a larger nozzle size. The small nozzles seem to clog very easily... small particles/contaminants can't make it through I suppose. Are you able to provide a little info about what materials you print with and can you send me an email or link to a sample file?
Have yo tried to use a larger nozzle to see if the detail is good enough? I find that thinner layers give you much nicer looking prints as well, I'm using 0.18mm right now with great success. I always over-extrude the bottom layer and I always make the bottom layer thicker for better adhesion.
is it also underextrusion when you can look through a horizontally printed surface?
im trying to make boats but those holes dont help xD
in lower version you need to click the Storage Option before it Saves the New Estep... No need to change Firmware if your 1.0.2
Thank you. I am surprised such an important part of the software was missed during their testing.
@@NeedItMakeIt all of the ender 3 series seem to be 93 for the extruder steps from factory. I guess they went with a "safe" number for inexperienced users.
I calibrated the esteps etc properly and had awesome printing results with my cura settings. few days later it was like all the calibrations were gone. couldn’t check it properly by now but pretty sure it deleted all my calibrations i did with pronterface. flow setting went from 107% to over 135% and it’s still not enough(printing TPU)
the rest on my ender 3v2 is fine, no issues there.
I think that powerswitch on the back can cause this randomly but not sure about that...
My e-steps are set to 105, though I do over extrude slightly so I can guarantee there are never any voids (ABS overhangs suffer a little bit) I was confused at the beginning because it was not saving changes, after the firmware upgrade you must still remember to press store config. so it keeps the setting change.
@@NeedItMakeIt I did that but still somehow it deleted them. I stored it properly, turned off, recheck -> all fine. used 2 weeks (on/off sometimes) and out of nowhere it was all gone when I restarted it one day. (no technical issues in the house)
due to my DD I had to set my esteps to 142. all out off nowhere I had to increases the flow over 30% that’s why I’m sure my calibrations deleted😅
Where's the video to test the filament coming in?
I bought a small UPS that will last hours for a modem,maybe ten minutes for a printer. My power is not interrupted because of it, so it does the job
Looks like you also need to upgrade your display's firmware to fix the typos (there is another sd card slot if you unscrew the back of the display housing)
I'll check it out, thanks!
The Ender 3 v2 v1 software allows yo to save changes to the transmission ratios. Back up two screens after you make the change and you are given a choice to “store, or “read, or to “reset” to defaults. I have had no issues retaining the extruded changes.
In my case the problem seems to come from the SD card that came with the printer. Once I switch to a regular Kingston SD all saving problems were gone.
I have the ender 3 v2 and I updated the extruder to a duel gear extruder, watched a video for the calculations to change from 93 to 138.8 so it's still in reality the same as 93. I am getting crazy separation now since this upgrade. Should I change that setting and go a bit higher to simulate the same thing you did?
If it is that bad, the extruder is either not feeding as expected, which is unusual for a dual gear, or the e-step changes are not being saved correctly. drive.google.com/file/d/1NQGiJOq1wygLa3jnxyJ8Kz8ck1VhiteT/view?usp=sharing here is the firmware I am using, it works perfectly, I just installed it on my 2nd E3V2 printer as well. Do you have any jambing or clogging as well, or just under-extrusion?
@@NeedItMakeIt after a bit more recalibrating I finally got it to print really well except the top layer, gets little bumps now. And for some reason I need to keep the cooling fan off when I am printing PLA or the layers will still separate. I also upgraded my hotend to an all metal one if that matters.
@@michaelhudson7809 after thinking that i got it all sorted i still seem to be having issues, prints are still coming out not good, i feel like it is under extruding. I did not have all these issues until i upgraded to the duel gear extruder, i am so close to throwing that damn thing in the garbage and buying the original all metal one. They are cheap enough.
Why would all of a sudden the filiment not be properly accuonted for?
Mine's doing something odd and I can't for the life of me track down what. The motors are both running in sync, the bed plate is certainly hot enough (between 60-80) and the nozzle is hot enough (between 90-190 depending). I have a plain old Ender 3. The problem as I can figure, the filament isn't being fed through quick enough, and I dunno what setting to tune or tweak. Then too, nothing really sticks to the bed. The nozzle/filament tube aren't clogged, I literally just took it all apart and cleaned it out completely. Heeellllp.
Where can i download this specific firmware?
You have a settings to save that setting you changed on the machine lad
i had a similar problem with quantum pla
what i did was
raised nozzle temp
slowed down
and increased flow
oh, and turned off the fan
For me it was the Spring Mech that wasn't putting enough tension on the filament
I've been having an issue with taller prints, my bed is level I always triple check. Printing smaller objects around 3-5 inches is fine, but over about 6 inches the nozzle rubs the print and the tip gets clogged. Know any way to fix this?
Would you say this is a new issue, or something you've had problems with since you assembled it?
My first thoughts would be to check to see how well the vertical extrusions are aligned, are the bolts tight are they the exact same distance apart from top to bottom. Next, you could have a problem with the Z-axis guide wheels not being tight enough... or too tight on the extrusions. This printer has only one lead screw controlling the z motion and too tight and too loose are both issues I had at the beginning.
These printers are supposed to have CNC'd parts for accuracy, it is possible that you have an extrusion cut out of square, also holes may not be drilled in the correct location. I did notice that they can rotate a bit during assembly, so please make sure the extrusions are parallel with a long straight edge.
@@NeedItMakeIt I’ve had this issue since assembly, I checked the measurements everything is squared.
Jyers ui firmware saves to eprom and not sd as long as you hit store
U sure?
On ender 3 u have to store ur changeses on steps
ahhhh! i could kiss you thanks i've spent days trying to sort this
Hey no worries, so did I.
@@NeedItMakeIt I had even convinced myself was doing something wrong with the leveling & bought a cr touch 😂 suppose it'll be nice to have when it shows up
so also if you aren't comfortable changing the firmware me people just put the code to change those types of settings in their starting gcode.
Hi guys, I printed great for 2 months and suddenly I have under extrusion. Which is the correct configuration for the screws I restore back some of the quality with loose, tight, thigh (from left to right) But I can not achieve the original quality I was having... (I already clean the nozzle)
Might be nozzle wear.
I updated my firmware and now the printer won't do anything except heating up
I have watched a ton of your videos and it seems like you are always printing the same thing. Can I ask what it is?
Yes for sure, well it wasn't planned, I thought more people had 3D printers, or had access to them. It turns out that I was wrong, and I have quite a few requests to print these parts th-cam.com/video/9M2wX5IQAYU/w-d-xo.html which I designed for my own Bowflex bench. Over a year ago I released a video with the initial concept and then improved upon it in both function and looks. You'll see my parts are printed with heavy walls/infill and a larger nozzle size because they will bear some loading in compression.
I have the same issue with under extrusion. I have firmware v 1.0.2 and the 4.2.2 main board. I can not get the new transmission ratio to save. Keeps reverting back to 93. Frustrated and at a loss at this point.
If the printer doesn't make a beep when you press storage configuration and doesn't keep the change you'll need to upgrade the firmware, there should be a link in the description of this video to help.
NeedItMakeIt I ended up flashing with Jyers. That solved the that issue. After adjusting the esteps the part I printed was maybe a tad better. After going over everything I ended up downloading Prusa slicer to try and printed it again. All layers and walls are bonded. So that leads me to believe I don’t have something set right in Cura. Looking at it know to see what settings were different and adjust them in Cura and print it again.
I designed a corexy machine which I usually print with 150mm/s at least for most of prints, but sometimes the extrusion is not enough (under extrusion), I found that it is because the feedrate of extruder is not enough eventhough I had set the extruder to 1500mm/s in marlin firmware, it did not help out. I am using BMG extruder having estep of 430 for extruder. Do you have any idea of what it is going on?
Impressive if you designed one yourself! I've heard great things about the CoreXY printers, I may have to jump over to testing one down the line.
A few questions:
Do you have any skipping in the extruder that you can see? Those kinds of speeds are going to be pushing some limits.
Are you able to see how the extruder handles the filament, meaning is it actually accurate in its movement at those speeds? I'm not certain how to test this, maybe a series of extrusions and retractions in series.
Can you confirm that the nozzle temp can handle the speed?
Are you seeing under extrusion in the same locations every time, or random?
Could you upload a quick video and post a link, it is a lot easier to analyze when I can get the full picture.
I'm no expert at machines that run at these speeds, maybe someone else will see this comment with some additional ideas.
@@NeedItMakeIt I have already found the cause of this issue. The harden steel nozzle is the main reason for under extrusion. My case is that the bowden tube is quite long at around 850mm due to big machine size. There are already quite resistive for the filament to pass through the tube since its unusual length, and after changing to the harden steel nozzle, due to the nature of harden steel material property(more poor transfer of heat as compared to brass), the extruder was even harder to push the filament into the melting zone and hence the extruder started to grind the filament therefore causing slipage. Even though I had cleared extruder gears, the feed rate could not reach as required by the slicer software. After noticing this root of under extrusion problem, I changed back to brass nozzle, then everything went smoothly again(the same gcode file). Neither my tech friends and I have never happened to this before using both direct drive and bowden system. But now we all know that too long of bowden tube with a harden steel nozzle will cause under extrusion and limit the printer's fast printing potential. PS: The nozzle is a high quality nozzle which I used on other direct drive machines before so the the nozzle has no quality issue. PLUS , when using harden steel nozzle(assume the same hole dia. of .4mm), increasing the temperature by 40 degree C will help a bit.
@@calvin-7540 I've been wondering about these things, I have a hardened steel nozzle and I have also been printing with CF filament a bit, I noticed under extrusion and slipping, at first I thought it was due to the fibers inside the filament, it turned out to be a temperature issue. The package had also been punctured so I wasn't sure if it had a moisture problem too. Lots of variables, and that's where you really need the experience of the problem to know what the source really is.
Your notes are very helpful, I had been planning a video about the bowden tube specifically a length comparison, and also a test to see if Capricorn really does have less friction.
I have a neat idea to try and reduce friction inside the tube as well, basically reduce the amount of filament in contact with the tube at any point. I have no idea how to do it yet.
@@NeedItMakeIt "The package had also been punctured so I wasn't sure if it had a moisture problem too" ___________You could check by seeing if there are any bubbles when the filament is being extruded right out of the nozzle for a length of more than 200mm or more. If there are a lot of bubbles even you have extruded quite a long distance(more than 800mm perhaps or just to print a calibration cube), then the filament is hydrated for sure. You could simply dehydrate it with a food dehydrator within a certain temperature range(You could seek help from the filament manufacturer for dehydrating temperature range). " I had been planning a video about the Bowden tube specifically a length comparison, and also a test to see if Capricorn really does have less friction. " __________That sounds exciting, I was also planning to make a comparison of print quality and friction difference between normal Teflon tube and Capricorn tube. I can't wait to see your results LOL. I will also share my test results with you at the end. "I have a neat idea to try and reduce friction inside the tube as well, basically reduce the amount of filament in contact with the tube at any point. I have no idea how to do it yet." _________ Actually, as far as I know, the Teflon is a very noble material and it has a frictionless surface which is very ideal for feeding filament as a tube. That is why one of my hotend design & manufacture friends or even some designers often include a short Teflon tube inside the hotend for printing low-temperature materials like PLA or PETG. I suggest you could try shortening the length of the tube as much as possible or just simply change to direct drive.
Creality Ender 3 V2 firmware 1.0.2 issue
I recently bought a Ender 3 V2 with stock firmware. After testing it for a few days I thought it was time to upgrade the firmware to the latest. This was a mistake even though thermal protection is in the upgrade. After upgrading to 1.0.2 I had all kinds of issues as I have read below. I had bad separation and when bed leveling with my g-code leveler I found the four corners were set properly but when it went to the fifth location (dead center) I found the paper had zero drag on it. This meant the firmware was not dropping the Z axis down low enough. This is a firmware code error.
I could not find a way to roll back to the original firmware, I just could not find a download of it so I had to use Marlins latest as others here have but now this is no longer free. It cost about $11 a year with unlimited downloads during the 12 months. So beware, if your going to upgrade firmware make sure you have a copy of the working one before you do so.
www.chepclub.com/ender-3-v2-firmware.html (can you try this website? I may have the original version, however since it was flawed, I'd be stuck in either case. So they've released bad software and now they are charging us to correct it...
@@NeedItMakeIt That website is the link I used to get a working firmware as I described. It used to be free, not any longer. Enders have always used Merlin firmware but they make adjustments to fit their needs. Too bad this time they muffed it. My understanding is you can still get Merlin firmware and code it yourself but I just don't have the time to learn how. Even using the site you listed you still have to make adjustments on the downloaded pay firmware. As stated on the download page with stock Ender 3 V2 4.2.2 main boards (stock) there is a code for auto filament run out sensor that is enabled. Err supposed to be stock but whatever. It says you have to turn this off by running a code M004 I believe. I ran it without doing this and it's good so far. Just make sure you have a copy of a working firmware and read about the new one. Some require a display upgrade first.
@@Vv_Twisted_vV Thanks, nothing can be simple can it. They have a large customer base now running off of this software, why not capitalize on it I guess.
what if you dont see transmission ratio under motion? i have feedrate; acceleration; jerk and step/mm
There has to be a method on the printer to adjust this, It is possible that your printer came with different firmware. Can you link a photo of your printer screen, and I can check on this later on. If you don't hear from me it is because I find YT comments very tough to track, so please follow up.
drive.google.com/file/d/1NQGiJOq1wygLa3jnxyJ8Kz8ck1VhiteT/view?usp=sharing
If you don't have the transmission ration available there might be a problem with your firmware, here is the version I am running. Pick a day you don't need to use your printer just incase. Keep the original firmware saved on your PC incase something goes wrong. There are some videos already on how to update the firmware as referenced in the description of my video if you need help.
I did everything I had to up the flow setting on outer and inside 110 to 150.
Just tune your e-steps
How do you calculate the transmission ratio? The links are all about the firmware, not about the transmission ratio like your said in the video... 😕
I'll have to check my links, I'm not sure what happened.
The simplest method is to mark the filament 110 mm away from the extruder assembly with a ruler. Heat up the nozzle and tell the printer to extruder 100mm. You should see 10mm away from the extruder assembly. If it is less, you'll need to up the ratio, and the opposite is true of course. Mine as set too low and I have it set to 105 now and it prodes accurately sized parts without any under extrusion. th-cam.com/video/QnrH2Sk7y40/w-d-xo.html here is the video I referenced for e-steps at the time.
@@NeedItMakeIt Well thank you very much, wasn't expecting such a prompt response but it's perfect I was still watching videos about that...
It's a lot simpler than I thought, but it brings another variable into play where if you compensate you steps for the material you'll have to test for each material, but meh...
3D printing is a lot more complicated than i thought, it's really not plug and play yet, not sure they should call them "printer" more like CNC extruders or something... i just hope i get to a result and usefulness that i can say it was worth it....
You dont know the name of the extruder?
Printed test print fine, went to print it again massive underextrusion still haven't fixed it
Were you able to adjust the e-steps? You'll need to adjust and then go back 1 menu and press storage config. it will save that setting. Your struggles are real, I've been there. If you're running the same as I, you should be able to solve the issue, let me know.
We just bought one and have not been successful in printing. It’s not printing solidly but printing very porous/ stringy. Unsure how to trouble shoot at this point , we’ve watched dozens of TH-cam videos.
Can you send me a photo? Needitmakeit@gmail.com
Could you please share the bin file of the 2.0.6 firmware version. It seems it is not available on chepclub anymore?
drive.google.com/file/d/1NQGiJOq1wygLa3jnxyJ8Kz8ck1VhiteT/view?usp=sharing can you give this a try. I've renamed it because it cannot be named the same as the original file.
@@NeedItMakeIt Will this latest firmware work on a 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 main board? Thanks
@@joedirt757 I hope so, it worked perfectly on mine, but can you please tell me where how to confirm the board on the printer and I can check for you.
@@NeedItMakeIt You have to open the machine and look on the control board. th-cam.com/video/vFcMW6m9OGg/w-d-xo.html
Mine wouldn't save settings to the SD card it came with because it was formatted with a 32k block size instead of 4096.
That's interesting, nobody has ever mentioned this to me before.
@@NeedItMakeIt the alternative i just thought of is that mine shipped with a fake sd card and and the settings file was being written to write only memory 😆
Either way, Formatting the card fixed the issue
Where is the link to test extrusion ratio?
I believe this is the video I used to help me. th-cam.com/video/xzQjtWhg9VE/w-d-xo.html.
@@NeedItMakeIt awesome thank you very much. Super helpful video and my prints are looking much better!
To save the settings you just have to click on "Storage configuration" which should actually say Store or Save configuration.
Correct, however it was not working in my case.
I have Dan near replaced almost all the parts on here and it was just one little screw… walk of shame.
Is it possible to get the updated firmware for free?
Yes, they should be free. Apparently you can do this through Cura all3dp.com/2/ender-3-firmware-update-cura-guide/ That may be a tad easier. If not here is where I found the file. www.chepclub.com/ender-3-v2-firmware.html
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you!
@@NeedItMakeIt Apparently CHEP does not have the firmware available on his website anymore.
@@shibui2466 drive.google.com/file/d/1NQGiJOq1wygLa3jnxyJ8Kz8ck1VhiteT/view?usp=sharing Here is the version I'm using, it has been working well for me since the video. Maybe this would work for yours also!
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you for your willingness to help. I have sent you a message to have permition to download the file. I will also try to get the bin file of the latest version, if so I will let you know.
Where is the test link?
Hi, there are three links in the description, are you on a phone? If you are, you might not see the description, so here they are:
th-cam.com/video/dLZm2itXJkg/w-d-xo.html
www.chepclub.com/ender-3-v2-firmware.html
www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/hhv9yt/ender_3_v2_firmware/fwhe0qd/
I hope that helps.
@@NeedItMakeIt Sorry, I meant the test for how much filament is comming into the ender 3 v2. All those links are for the firmware update, right?
@@LeonardThury th-cam.com/video/QnrH2Sk7y40/w-d-xo.html This guy does a good job of explaining. I actually didn't bother with any math, I used a few test samples to dial it in more exact. I did do the measurement method, and that get's to pretty close. If your machine is set to 93 E-steps like mine was you'll likely want to set it higher, somewhere in the 100-104 range.
You are a life saver! Thank you! Everything os working great now! 👏👏👏
@@LeonardThury Glad that it worked out, I wasted so much time on this and sometimes there are so many possible causes that is just isn't clear how to solve it.
You need to save EPROM
Ahhh chewing noises
same shit...broken 🙃
Printed fine stock for about 4 rolls, then underextruded
bought the cheap direct drive kit autoleveler and tighter screws, printed fine for about 2 rolls, then underextruded
bought a full metal hot end and the capricorne tubing, replaced the parts for my bowden rig, printed fine for about 2 rolls, then underextruded
bought the $35 full metal heatstop and installed it into my direct drive, printed fine for about 3 rolls then underextruded
... about to throw this bloody thing in the trash DO NOT BUY
lol if they came here hours are already lost before they went aha TH-cam
This extruder is crap, clean z screw,and all printer, when machines work well.
Bet the plastic extruder has a hairline split
Did that fix the problem ? I get extruder issues at the midway point. I have an ender 3.
I did not experience this supposedly "major flaw" when my machine arrived. The problem may be unique to you or merely a handful of users. Ever think about that? Mine worked great out of the box and the results far exceed my expectations.
It is possible that not everyone is affected by this of course. It is also possible that many people are, they are produced in high volumes and thus is is quite likely that this is common. The manufacturer may also be aware of the problem and has solved the issue with the firmware from the factory (old stock/new stock). I won't waste any more time thinking about it either way. The video is here for people who need it, if they don't need it, that's perfectly fine too.
It is a good machine no question, I am also happy with it.
Mine did need to be changed, but the Chinese to english translation is a bit off so the save settings button isn't labeled correctly. I just followed guides on youtube I think mine is at 103 now instead of 93
my ex-truder
ma ma ma my ex-truder