Ender 3 v2 - Still The Best Budget 3d Printer in 2023? The Truth After 6 Months
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2022
- Should you buy the Ender 3v2 or is there a better option out there for you?
In this video, i'm going to try my best to answer these questions and share my experience of owning and using this 3d printer.
Videos referenced
Ender 3v2 Assembly and Setup: • Ender 3 v2 Full Build,...
Bed Leveling: • 3d Printer Bed levelli...
Sunlu S1 Turbo Mod: • Sunlu S1 Filadryer Tur...
Sunlu S1 Turbo Mod MK2: • Sunlu S1 Filadryer Tur...
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6 months ago, I had never messed with a 3D printer. My young grandson bought this one, thinking it was plug and play. Wrong! After his parents helped him mess with it for a few months, they gave up. They asked me if I had the time to get it fixed, because nothing was working. Even the Creality tech support was stumped after they had them replace the 4.2.2 control board. Since I am retired with 50 years of IT experience, they thought I could help.
The first thing I noticed was that the movements of the stepper motors were not what they were supposed to be. After digging in some of the Reddit groups and Googling, I found out that a batch of these printers left the factory with mislabeled stepper wires. When plugged into the control board according to the labels, it would not work. I reversed the two incorrect wires at the control board and it worked! They never had considered this. Funny the Crality tech support didn't know this. It is a common issue with a bunch of these that came out.
After fixing that, my biggest challenge was leveling (tramming) the bed. Tinker, tinker, tinker. Very frustrating. I tried a CR-Touch and couldn't get anything consistent. Different mesh results every time I tried to create a new mesh.
I finally decided it was a mechanical issue with the way it was assembled because some things were out of alignment by just a few degrees.
Tore the whole printer down and reassembled it from almost scratch, using a good square. I found that it pays to get the alignment of everything just right. Found a wobble in the print bed assembly. Fixed that. Loaded the Jyers firmware with 3x3 mesh for the BL-Touch. Carefully trammed the bed manually, created a new mesh and fine tuned the mesh. Set the Z-offset carefully. Cleaned the bed with Isopropyl alcohol before each print.
Finally, after months of frustration and tinkering, I am getting good consistent results. Too many tweeks to Cura slicer to list here.
There are lots of people that have produced some very good videos on YT and lots of people on Reddit who have had the same problems and share their solutions.
This is a hobbyist printer, for sure. I meet up today with my grandson to give it back to him with all the upgrades and repairs I have done. I wrote up tutorials for him for the key steps to make successful prints. He is only 11 years old, so we will see how he does with it. He lives 300 miles away from me, so I can't be at his side to help if he runs into trouble.
Overall, I would buy this printer for myself, if I wanted a new hobby, which I don't. I have learned a lot about 3D printing, in general, and this printer, specifically. My wife will be happy to have me refocused on my neglected "Honey Do" list. Ha, ha.
damn you're an awesome grandpa! lose a few points though for not teaching your son/daughter how to do all that for him, lol
I had a few of the same issues as you - mainly bed leveling and the X-gantry not being perfectly square were things that took me a lot of time to pinpoint and then fix. I use a BLtouch now and honestly as long as I don't mess with the manual leveling knobs it seems to keep working ok, so that's cool. The gantry hasn't given me any trouble since I repositioned it either but that was annoying as hell to get right..... to be fair though I wasn't smart enough to think of using an actual square to measure; I literally dropped a tape measure down from the gantry on each side, checking to see if the distance to the bottom of the printer was equal to the other, and messing with the screws to adjust it the whole way. derp
Sounds like you did a great job of sorting that printer out. Most don't have the patience or experience to sort out those kind of issues. It's a shame that we sometimes have to go that far to get a printer working correctly and that many actually come assembled with problems from the manufacturer. I haven't had a single printer from Creality that hasn't had some assembly issue from new. It's a shame as they are generally well designed machines for not a lot of money.
Please help. Neither my ender 3 or ender 5 are working. They both worked fine for a few weeks but then took a shit and only print birds nests if they print anything at all. I have done everything. New nozzles, new tubes, new beds, leveling a million times, new filament, checked the extruder for cracking, tightened and loosened the spring. I'm about to toss them out the window. If I could return them I would. Please help.
@@dwightschrute8726 rip
Do you have those tutorials available? Great job btw. Looking up to be as good grandpa as you!
Never had any issues with my V2. Once it's dialed in, prints all materials without any issues. Did get ready for spring and filament tensioner to bust, but hasn't yet! Do think it's on point still as one of the best and affordable printers on the market, without all the head scratching! Thanks again for the vids👊
Great review! I would say it was very informative and honest. Thanks!
I've had the Ender 3 V2 for a good while. Upgraded to capricorn tubing, changed couple of fans to quiter ones, added BL Touch, and changed the hot end to the all metal Phaetus Dragonfly. Also, ditched the rubbish creality firmware to an up-tp-date Marlin one. Also, chhange the springs under the bed to a yellow springs. Printing on the smooth side of the glass bed, with a little adheseve on it, this printer have become an absolute carbon fiber nylon printing monster. And the quality of prints I haven't been able to replicate on any other printer so far. I can totally attest that, when you say this printer is built for upgrades, it truly is!
Yes, it can become a really capable printer as you obviously know. Thanks for the comment 👍
Hey mate, thank you so much for this review. I've never used a 3D printer before but decided I wanted one and after looking around, it seems this one is just what I want. You didn't carry on with any bull or anything and I appreciate that. Take care mate and all the very best.
Great videos Ricky, to the point and no BS!
This video made me pull the trigger on a used v2 to finally get started with 3D printing. Love the calmness and production and have to say that I cannot wait to jump into it. I'm sure your video series will be worthwile and provide me with much needed guidance.
I really hope you are happy with your purchase. I'm sure you will love 3d printing, have fun👍
wait, why is the video called "don't buy it in 2022" when it's just a review of the printer and basically you say it's great?
Clickbait
Clickbait
Clickbait title sadly
Because it's 2023 now so you cant. He was thinking ahead
In tiny tiny letters at the bottom of the thumbnail.
I love my BIQU B1 and I've feared troubleshooting would be hard because of less number of users but thanks to the community I've had a great journey
Another great video. Simple and to the point.
Ricky's build video is THE BEST!!
I got my E3V2 for Christmas. I cannot thank you enough for your videos - they have been a great help.
In particular my V2 came with same bed issue as yours being too tight from factory and having developed flat spots on the rollers. Your tips on that issue in your assembly video turned out very helpful.
Then comes the bed leveling (I have also interacted with you on bed leveling video before). Your video showing bed leveling using a feeler gauge is the best. That is my preferred method as well.
Being an engineer myself and with some OCD, I was very systematic and precise during my assembly. Result -> The printer has been delivering outstanding results right from print #1 !!
Thank you for everything and looking forward to more videos from you. (I am glad I have same model as yours 😀😀)
Thanks for the comment. It sound like you have all the tools you need to enjoy 3d printing, a systematic approach and a little patience. So many problems are caused by sloppy assembly and not always by owners. I always seem to find something that manufacturers have assembled wrong when I get new machines. Let me know if you have any 'challenges' that I haven't covered in a video👍
I just ordered v2. Can't wait to get it. I'm new to it to..
Got my E3v2 last week. Happy to say that it comes with updated firmware that is capable of displaying more than 16 characters. In fact, when the filename is too long to fit the screen, it will be moving slowly upon selection to reveal the full name. Nice.
Much better, glad they've changed it👍
Most valuable lesson I’ve learned since starting to 3-D print. Like many other things in life sometime cheap and being more expensive there’s money or time you’re gonna invest one of the other.
I've had around 7-8 different printers circa. 2016, and my last one was the Monoprice Maker Select Plus (Wanhao copy), which has plagued me the past 6 years but I managed to fix it for a while before it went back to being stubborn again; I bought the E3V2 last year thinking it would be a breeze compared to the others, only to find that nothing I did worked and when I fixed one issue, 3 others arose! After being done with 3D printing's relentless mocking for a year, I finally picked up the scraper again a few weeks ago and managed to fix my E3V2 thanks to your setup videos, which might seem simple enough but no one else bothered to publish guides about at the time and I just wanted to say thank you for the great quality content 🙏🏻
my plan is buying it and then upgrade it at a pace of one upgrade per month, the original plan was to do it with the Biqu B1 but after seeing some controversies related that now uses a different motherboard and that it can get a lot of troubles with the electronics (that's sad because i love how it looks) i decided to go for the Ender 3 V2
Thanks for sharing
Great video.
Thank you for your channel and your tech savey information. I was like a crazy wind up toy seeking information on which 3D printer to select on a poor man's budget looking at 500 - plus printers. But as luck would have it I decided on refurbished and inexpensive printers. I ordered exactly this printer Ender 3 v2 and I will get to learn a whole lot more this way plus add other features. Thank you Ricky Impey !
That's great. Yes you can save quite a bit of you are prepared to learn. The Ender 3 V2 can be a fantastic machine with a little patience.
After 1 year my Ender 3 V2 is still awesome, I have done many upgrades to it, I advice a bed leveler like BLtouch or CR, and a nut addition for the bed/spring leveling, the screws tend to spin while trying to level the bed, besides that a capricorn tube for the bowden tube is also good, there is a video on cutting a small piece and placing it inside the hot end which is also great, but these items are cheap and all you really need, anything else will not improve prints but help with the life span of your printer. Love your videos btw
in 5 years I had many issues with my ender 3 (great printer anyways) but when i bought a v2, men, the quality is amazing... best printer i ever printed
I bought this printer at the end of 2021 and have changed a lot to it. First I bought better bed springs, then a whole metal extruder, a BLtouch for auto bed leveling and a filament runout sensor. Meanwhile I had to replace the hot end unit as the fan studs got broken. (You can't print yourself one when this piece is broken, so maybe I should print one in advance. Just in case....) Last week I moved from Jyers firmware and Octoprint to Klipper in combination with Mainsail. The screen became useless, so I bought a 4" touchscreen for the hooked up Raspberry Pi and printed a nice mount to bolt it at the same location to the printer as the original screen. The only thing I'm running into fairly often is heat creep. I have no clue why. Especially as the fans are still pretty new, so colling should be ok.
I've been very happy with my Ender 3 V2. I will admit it can take some time to dial in. Before I did my first print I did 2 mods. I put heavy springs on and I switched the firmware to the Jyers UI.
I've had to relevel the bed a few times and dry filament but nothing serious until my recent fan noise. I'm going to oder new better made fans and replace them all.
If you have a somewhat mechanical mind and think things out, you can handle it.
Yes, completely agree. It can be a great printer but it requires a bit of mechanical sympathy from the owner.
@@RickyImpey I also have to say this was my 1st printer. I also went and watched several videos on it and some others. I watched videos on 3D printing in general to decide. I think a very helpful thing to do is research before you buy so you understand better what you can do, what can go wrong and ways to avoid or at least fix the problems you may have. Videos like yours can be very helpful.😎
Technically this is my 3rd 3D printer, but it's the first one I've had that worked straight away and has given me very few problems. The sheer number of videos on YT about this model were enough to make it easy to modify.
Very good review of Ender 3 V2, agree %100
Your comments were spot on! My experience would lead me to recommend the swap-out of the standard bed springs to the sturdier "orange" heavy duty ones. Bed leveling activity was dramatically reduced...dramatically. The dual-gear extruder upgrade was a major improvement, although that involves recalibrating the e-steps setting which is a technical challenge for the new user. Thanks.
Thanks for your comments James👍
It confuses me greatly why can't they figure out the springs through so many revisions.
The problem is not sturdiness or strength. The ends should be properly squared and flattened to prevent misalingment during movement. So both "orange" and "blue" springs will work since those have the proper ends. Or you can print small details to keep original springs centered.
Thank you so much
I found that my plastic extruder has started cracking without me noticing. What ended up happening was that it was slipping while pulling filament through. My prints would still work most of the time, but wasn't extruding as much as it should so I just didn't notice at first. i was printing for about a year before I had that problem though. And I got some really good prints before that.
I think I have owned this printer now from just before this vid came out and it has been nothing but trouble! I love it!
It all started on day 1 with an upgrade to Jyers (now mriscoc Professional) followed very closely with new fans, and more of them. To reduce the noise I installed squash balls. Because my glass bed was basically a bowl it was impossible to tram the bed so I got a 3d touch. I wanted to print PETG but the blobbing lead me to convert to direct drive, then a HeroMe gen6 for better PLA cooling. For improved bed adhesion and removal without having to tram the bed all the time I added a magnetic PEI sheet which is brilliant. Now I'm upgrading to a dual lead screw setup because the direct extruder is too heavy and messes up technical prints. In between I also got silicone bed 'springs' and an all metal hot-end conversion kit. I guess the only thing left is an ender extender, but that's so expensive!
It's been a wild ride but I am still enjoying every minute (well, except that one Ali Express scammer, but that's another story)...
Sounds like you are enjoying yourself 🙂
I've just picked up one for £80 so ideal for me to learn about 3D printing as this is my first foray into this area
I don't see a need to get the BLtouch or CRtouch. Manual tramming is fine and you should do it every time after each print since removing the print from the bed always changes the alignment on mine.
Upgrading the springs and the tube are the only two things that matters on a v2. Octoprint addition is nice but not needed if the printer is easy to access. Finding the proper power source (5v >2.5A) for the pi is actually the tricky part but it has to be done to avoid the constant low current warnings and the blob from it.
I bought Ender 3 v2 Neo and upgraded the heatbreak. I am very happy with it. You can't go wrong it's the third edition's v2 and Neo update. Full Metal Bowden Extruder + CRTouch with metal tip! And I printed lots of upgrade parts. Its such a good 3D printer. You really can't go wrong. It may not have lineer guides but hey it's $300 printer... Not a 1500 one... And it can print as good as those 1500, 2000 price tag printers... Especially Prussa... Don't buy Prussa Ender Prints with much better quality!
I've had my 3v2 for 6 months as well and is my first 3d printer. So far I've been very happy with it. The only issue I have is an intermittent floating Z home.
Every once in awhile the Z will home to a different position. I've messed with it and I can tell when it loses it. As it will go to its different Z home. There are only 2 different positions it ever goes to so I'm not too worry about it.
That sounds like a misbehaving z limit switch Jeff. Have you tried changing it?
@@RickyImpey no I haven't yet. When I command it go Home, intermittently it will not reach the Z switch where you hear the switch click. But it's always at the same height. Other times it will stop at the "click" and home there which is a bit lower. It's like it has 2 home positions if thar makes sense?
It's always been so stable as to where it homes I haven't looked into of the Z switch is causing it or if it's a software issue? I keep wanting to order a new Z switch to test it out when I make an Amazon order but I keep forgetting.
@@jeffallen3382 ah ok Jeff, it may not be quite so straight forward then🤔 My first thought was a false trigger of the switch before the lever is pressed but that wouldn't happen in the same place all the time.....
@@RickyImpey that's what I was thinking. Thank you for all your videos you have put out on these.
Great video, really enjoyed it and for sure will be using you tips when assembly my printer. (soon to be bought).
Also, I had some comments on a reddit post saying that the V2 is no longer "okay" and the NEO (basic) would be a better option. Do you agree? From I saw, I would still be choosing the V2. I am thinking on upgrading the fans, so at least that"extra" money would be spent. Regarding the auto leveling, I was not thinking on using that (at least at first. maybe an upgrade later - or not), so the NEO would not have significantly upgrades (from the V2) that would justify the extra I would spend for buying it. Also, since we are a few weeks into Black Friday, I should wait for BF deals for buying mine, right?
Hi, the V2 can be upgraded in every way but the trickiest/costliest can be the bed size. If you're not sure you want the extras that the Neo has and the price looks right to you, then maybe buy the V2 and upgrade as and when you want. I used the V2 completely standard for 6 months with no issues and felt no real need to upgrade until I wanted to print with PETG. Then I switched to a Capricorn Bowden tube so it was I bit more durable and precise. I've added a CR touch but, to be honest, it was simpler without it.
It took me 5 hours to assemble it. It was my first ever 3D printer and I knew nothing about them. I found the build manual to be confusing, I never knew which was "left side" and "right side " , the drawings always showed from different sides. It could have easily showed the different drilled holes indicating left or right. All the wires didn't make sense if you build it back to front.
Eventually I relied more on common sense and made more progress. I also couldn't work out where the software went , I thought it was on the printer itself. I seemed to have problems with filament not getting to the nozzle too and the blue wheel didn't really push the filament down. But I learned a lot from all my mistakes , bed levelling only caused minor problems , not printing on one side . I soon learned that you can adjust the settings mid print . For my first thingiverse print , it said 26 hours to print , I'm not sure why so long. Oh I'm learning a lot 🥴
I hope you're enjoying the journey, there is a lot to learn initially but it gets easier.
Thank you so much for your vid helping me set this thing up. As a total beginner, I found the instruction manual to be extremely deficient and without info on bed levelling, calibration, z-offset tuning, etc, etc, I've had to resort to FB & youtube & still not working properly! Seems that the build plate is slightly higher in the middle, so can't get leveling done well enough.
Hi, sorry to hear you're having problems. Do you have a metal ruler or known good straight edge that you can check your bed with? If it is warped that bad you should be able to see it. If it is bad then maybe consider a warrantee claim? It's unusual for the glass bed to not be flat though. Have a look at the way I tighten the bed springs at the beginning of this video. It's a slightly different model but you may be inducing some warp if you are cranking down one spring at a time. It a bit of a problem with the being 4 adjustment points. Sometimes they can fight each other. th-cam.com/video/GmhBYOEb-ro/w-d-xo.html
I chose the Ender 3 v2 because of the large user base. In all fairness, the FB community of users has always been supportive and friendly. Newbies are totally welcome.
And it is an extremely affordable machine which can lead you - if you want to go in that direction - into a pretty steep upgrade path.
I want to print stuff in carbon fibre infused nylon...for good reason given the nature of what I make. It is pretty amazing that the Ender 3 v2 can handle this type of extreme upgrade. Mosquito hotend and Bondtech direct drive. They cost more than the whole printer.
But this is down to need, and the Ender 3 v2 can be all things to all people. The freedom to upgrade - even if it's a metal extruder and a Capricorn tube - can give you an even better printing experience for very little outlay.
As far as firmware goes, I installed Jyers which solved a few drawbacks and generally made life a bit easier.
I started out using an Anycubic i3 mega which died a horrible and complicated death. I still can't get my head around why they would want to run proprietary firmware on their products.
But owning an Ender has taught me far more about calibrating and running a printer than the Anycubic ever did. N9t because it's unreliable or overly temperamental, but because the tools to get things right are so readily at hand. Calibrating steps and flow rate were painless, not that I'm looking forward to doing it all again when the Mosquito arrives.
It makes a pleasant change to have such a complex bit of kit running consistently well with a bit of research and testing.
And that it can be adapted to print in engineering grade materials is pretty mind-blowing.
The one thing I'm unhappy about is the lack of air vents in the cover of the PSU and the tinning of cables going into the main board. As soon as I can I'm getting some PETG to put the airflow situation of the PSU right and a crimper to replaces the tinned end of wires in the main board.
But hey. At 220 quid, being overly critical isn't a good look.
Yes Larry, I love the versatility of the Ender 3v2. Pretty much anything you don't like about it can be modified. I've even seen someone upgrade to a bigger bed which would be a step too far for me I think.
@@RickyImpey Hmmm. After being on disability benefits for so long (and having to really sacrifice to save up) I can see the attraction of having a large print volume at minimal cost. I have a feeling it may be a step too far, though. I manage by making as much of my stuff as modular as possible. It's all very IKEA around here.
I had a bad Z-Axis limit switch. It took FOREVER to figure that out!. If your Z axis home position is or becomes inconsistent, what to see when the limit switch actually engages. If the switch arm doesn't go down all the way every time, it is bad. If you want, you can confirm this with a multimeter and watch it behave more like a potentiometer than a switch! True story.
Thanks Jason, yes I've seen some people with the same issue. In this video I try to show how to diagnose a faulty switch. Glad you sorted it in the end👍 th-cam.com/video/9eQ_rBzfm5s/w-d-xo.html
I have ended 3 with 4.2.2 board running klipper and octoklipper.
Works quite well. Prusa slicer works better than Cura in terms of finished quality.
Yes, I use Prusa Slicer sometimes too. It's interesting to see how it does some things differently. I like some of the more recent additions to Cura since we've had 5.0.0 though.
Right at the time stamp @6:00 (approx) you just answered the question that has been bugging the daylights out of me, which is in the set-up of the CURA, "Which machine and version" and when I was setting that up, there is no Ender-3 v2 model and have been stuck. I did choose the next closet model, but I still haven't turned the machine on yet, and I have had the machine for about 18 days now, which is okay, as I was having a friend of mine, build/refurbish an older or NOT NEW laptop that is going to be dedicated to this 3D printer with WIN 7 OS. I have a WIN 10 laptop, and love the built in 3D software that it has, but dang is that OS so corrupted, as none of your content is private and no way to sever the packets of meta info being sent out to MS, for them to see what is going on, and if they should send off to any of the agency's for RED FLAG laws, that require no warrants to kick your door in. Which is why I won't be using that WIN 10 unit. Please note, I do not get involved in any oddity's or illegal activity's, but I do value my privacy and intend on protecting it from these agency's that view the civilian US population as ALL ARE CRIMINALS, and just haven't locked them up yet.. Yes, I know that sounds paranoid, but I spent 20 years working side by side with a hand full of these agency's, so, trust me when I say, they hate the US Constitution and Bill of Rights, anyhow, I am sorry for the political perspective, and please feel free to delete my comment if you so choose, if you find it out of place or improper for the comment section that you wish to uphold and I will not be offended as I do understand.
My point is, you just answered my question upon the "Which machine variant do I use, if mine is not in the list?" I feel better now on my choice I used. Thank you.
printing with my v2 for a while no. I mainly use it to print parts for agricultural machines, so I always print with PETG. when it comes to petg printing with the v2 is not a party i constantly have problems in all sorts of weird ways, it's something different every time... at the moment i'm mainly bothered by material sticking to my nozzle i manage cannot be helped. looking for another printer now...
i'd love to know what you think of the ender v2 neo
pls which filament can I use for power bank case that this printer can printer
As a former Ender3 V2 user:
- Creality board & TMC drivers: Due to less than ideal HW design of these boards, it is not possible to use all features a TMC drivers offers (such as setting the correct motors current by FW or Linear Advance). Moreover board v4.2.2 has cooling issues (and v4.2.7 solves only this cooling issue). The only solution of all of this is to replace the board, almost by any vendor but Creality (e.g. Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 is often used as replacement by many people).
- The probe is really missing in these days. It should be included by default. You don't need it, of course. But it makes life much easier. I bought it when Z endstop started to fail (which is not "if", but "when" it starts to failing).
- V2 displej looks nice, but it's quite limited and doesn't allow to use all features Marlin FW offers (such as "bed level corner assistant" using leveling probe). One has to deal with it or replace display to a more friendly one ("standard" display used in E3/E3Pro offers much more. It only doesn't have the appealing look of V2 display, but certainly offers more.).
- "Carborundum" glass is often more warped than aluminium bed itself. E.g. mine was so wavy, it was impossible to use it without bed mesh calibration (and again, having probe is big bonus here). The cheapest solution is to get rid of it and buy cheap glass by glazier.
- Extruder plastic lever is prone to crack quite quickly. Even with the least tension. (easy and cheap solution is to print spare one sooner than the original one cracks. Which was in my case after two month). The aluminium "upgrade" is just thrown money out (it has own issues). If someone wants to upgrade extruder, then BMG clone by TL (with the space for Z lead screw) is much better choice.
Overall Ender3 V2 is so so "good enough" printer. The only benefit it has, isn't vendor, but quite large user community (and printer issues are well known). It's up to everyone if that's enough.
It was fun to tinker it, but as I recently heard most people don't like it (tinkering the printer). Anyway, as my first printer it served well.
Thanks for your comment. You're not wrong in all you say. I think it's a good printer to start with at a decent price with a few limiting factors that show up when you start trying to do more advanced printing. It's clear to see why they are so popular but also why people look for something else once they get to a certain level of experience.
@@RickyImpey well said 👍
Have you had any ecperience with the Ender 3 Neo v2?
Can you use CNC programming language on these machines?’ I used to be a milling machinist and know the language really well. Also what 3D machines are good for precision plastic parts?
Hi, from my experience, CNC machines use G-code, so do 3d printers. However, I would use the software designed for 3d printers called 'slicers' and then see if you want to mod anything from there, it would save a lot of time. This video helps to explain the process th-cam.com/video/e-lQPGJ3Psc/w-d-xo.html
When it comes to 'precision' plastic parts, it depends what tolerances you are looking for. To get fine tolerances, you will likely need to do some tuning on any machine you buy and keep a close eye on all of the variables like temperature and humidity.
Compared to the mega zero, the ender 3v2 is basically the same but it wont blow your eardrums out
I have the E3v2 and like it.
I have trouble with it though printing eSun PLA+ that is supposed to be printed with a bit higher nozzle temp and I get stringing and some blobs
Factory set estep seems way off, as well as matching flow rate that would provide a perfect 0.40mm single line wall
There's quite a bit z axis hysteresis going up vs down, especially to the right.
Using latest Pro firmware for E3v2 with UBL, tramming/mesh says I'm level but bed level test suggests the right side has a bit too much gap.
I just want to solve the stringing/bobs without having to make the nozzle cold which creates its own problems.
Have you tried drying your filament? I find eSun to be pretty good but I do dry most of my filament. Try this if you don't have a dryer th-cam.com/video/WC3jvuq-uq8/w-d-xo.html
@@RickyImpey wow, what a fast reply!
Yes, I've dried it with updated Sunlu for 9 hours at 47c with desiccant inside. After about 8 hours chamber towards top of filament was18% humidity with temp at 108F or 42.2C. I've done that before without much improvement
I'm printing the cat now with flow modified in gcode to 89.
I should add that when I've done maintenance on the hot end, I found about 8mm (from memory about the height of the heat break throat) of filament somewhat tight in the bowden tube after I've extracted the filament.
Also I found the heat break was not screwed in tight into the heat block, also the heat block support screws were also loose. At the time I didn't know the heat break was screwed in, thought it floated to minimize heat transfer and that only the bowden tube made contact with the nozzle base.
On my first change of nozzle thinking it was clogged, apparently I didn't have the tube against the nozzle so melted filament eventually spilled all over the place at the top of the heat block.
@@danman32 sounds like you're sorting it out now at least. They are good printers but Creality don't always put them together with the greatest care unfortunately 😏
@@RickyImpey not sure how you can say I'm sorting it out. Still same problem, just added history and findings.
Do the ender 3, 3 v2, and 3 s1 all have the same frame setup? I've only been able to look at pictures, I'm thinking of buying a broken 3 v1 off if eBay for the frame and bed then get the rest from other places to save a bit of money and also to upgrade it for the future. Are the frames the same?
Not quite, there are some small differences between them I'm afraid. There is a possibility they might work but not sure.
I agree about the fans they are a bit noisy. i have been meaning to change over to jeyers but have not had the guts too yet?
Jyers is really easy and has some great features. I'm running it at the moment th-cam.com/video/Qv_vVrnkAkI/w-d-xo.html
Hi, can you discuss about Ender 3 pro V2 thermistor to prevent thermal runaway and how to fix it thermal runaway? It seems too few has discussed about it on youtube and mostly are for Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro but not the V2. Thank you!
Hi, I'm pretty sure the thermistor and heating element are identical between those 3 Enders so fixing a thermal runaway error should be pretty much the same. The only real difference is the screen. Do you have a specific problem with thermal runaway?
@@RickyImpey I had a thermal runaway in the middle of a print earlier. Checked and rescrewed the thermistor to make sure. Heated the nozzle to 260 and seems fine. Heated the bed to 100 and seems fine as well. Did a test print and it printed fine so far. I have no idea what caused it. Whether the thermistor screw was loose or software bug. I'm just afraid if it reoccurs
@@arquitensproduction8001 have done a PID tune? Fluctuating temps can cause a thermal runaway and a PID tune can help. th-cam.com/video/DG1Yvt02l1I/w-d-xo.html
Is this worth it for cosplay? I want to print DC comics statues and dioramas along with cosplay armor for the TX renaissance fair. If you slice the files can this be done on this bed? I hear the bed size is actually bigger than the Ender 3.
I think you may find the bed on an Ender 3v2 too small for cosplay. It's not something I have a lot of experience of but there are other printer's with bigger build areas that will make it much easier to print larger items. They will unfortunately be more expensive though. It depends if you want to spend a bit more for the bigger volume. All of the Ender 3 beds are basically the same. There may be a few mm in it but nothing you notice in build volume.
@@RickyImpey okay. Sovol Svo3 it is! Thanks for the input! I am sure printing things in one piece or a couple as opposed to eight would be more durable as well!
@@KurtisJoseph maybe just hold on 24 hours for a review video I have coming with a pretty huge discount....
I dont know what is better E3 v2 or E3 v3 SE
Do have to ask though: tpu temp, retract distance and retraction speed? What have you found works best? Thanks in advance 😎👊
Completely standard Cura profile at 20mm/s print speed works for me👍
@@RickyImpey thanks heaps. Did notice you reduced the retraction. I have tried every option to dial it right in. Now to finally and completely dry tpu🤣🤣 Dry box mod incoming 👊😎
@@AsylumFpv ah yes, I do reduce the retraction a bit for PLA but not sure if I do for TPU🤔 I have to double check but I don't think so.
I learned a new word today. Tramming!
7:28 you don't need to open the LCD. Putting the SD-Card into the SD-Cart slot with the new firmware is enough
Not if you want to do screen files too👍
hello, is it easy to connect an old phone to the 3d printer for octaprint? i would like to see a guide
Sure, I plan to do a video on it but there are a couple of others out there. I needs to be an Android phone and no more than about 5 years old. There is an app to download but it's pretty invasive so you only want it on a phone that you don't want for anything else. Check out this video by Thomas Sanladerer th-cam.com/video/74xdib_-X38/w-d-xo.html
I have this printer amd sofar upgraded the bed springs and installled a bl touch. Im very happy with it but i want to start printing ABS. So i guess i want to get rid of the bowden tube. What direct drive/hotend would you recommend for this printer
Have you considered printing with PETG instead of ABS? It's around the same strength, easier to print with and doesn't give off the harmful fumes. I print a lot of PETG with my V2 with only a Capricorn tube upgrade. I can't particularly recommend a direct drive upgrade for the V2 as I haven't added one myself. I have the sprite extruder on my S1 Pro and I can't fault it though. With the all-metal version, you can print up to 300°!
@@RickyImpey yeah inhave made some prints with PETG and they come out pretty good exept for when there is a bridging part. That comes out very stringy .ust try some more settings. I would like to pront some flexibpes as well in the future and i read somewhere that with a bowden tube this limits the printing speed somewhat?
@@pixxure1 yes, you have to go slow with flexibles if you have a Bowden tube but it is possible. Direct drive is probably what you want if you want to do much with flexible filament.
@@RickyImpey thx for the info. I might go direct drive if i want to print flexibles. Too much choice ;). Keep up the great videos
I bought a 2070 super for 250 dolars, the guy also game some ram and 2 cpus, i traded 1 of the cpus for this printer so i got the printer essentially for free since the 2070 alone goes for 250+
For someone just starting this looks great, but I do think I’m gonna want a bigger build area.. so which one would you recommend in that case?
My favourite bigger printer is the Artillery Sidewinder X2 this is my review th-cam.com/video/ob9vTK_vZYM/w-d-xo.html
I’m loving it! The discount code you speak of in the videos still working or should I order elsewhere? And with Black Friday coming next week should I hold out for another week in hopes of a better deal or should I pull the trigger now? Thank you very much. Love the simplicity and straight forwardness of your videos. You state all of the things we want to hear and it’s great!
@@87fiveoh Geekbuying are very competitive and the code got updated a few days ago but I can't say what you might be able to find somewhere else with Black Friday Deals. You should be able to find out the price by going all the way to checkout and putting in the code. You don't have to actually confirm it if you don't want to.
@@87fiveoh Thanks fro the support too👍
Thank you Ricky I very much appreciate you! 👍🏼
Bye far, the best 3d print channel for ender users in my opinion, you've changed my prints from messy globs of pla to the best of quality. I'll also note that PLA PRO by Esun gives me prints quality of that to a much more expensive printer.
Thanks Kyle. I haven't tried PLA Pro, I wonder if that's just their name for PLA+🤔 I'll keep an eye out for it.
I use Esun PLA+ (not PRO) and get extremely good results with it in the 3V2 (0.1 layer height).
Hey guys im thinking about getting a ender 3 v2 as my first printer, but the only space I can print in is my garage but winter is already almost here and it will be very cold, is there any advice on printing in the cold ? 🥶
Sure, check out this video about printing in the cold th-cam.com/video/SyuqCb8YS1Y/w-d-xo.html
Would you recommend this or the Ender 5 pro? Looking to buy my second printer and can’t decide, only $40-$50 in price difference
Not sure if you have used the Ender 5 Pro
I haven't unfortunately, sorry.
Thinking of this or the cr6 se?? Anyone?
I have had my eyes on this printer for about a week now and am currently about to give in and buy it. It costs around $203 here. I asked the seller of the control board version of their units and they said it's 4.2.2. Can you help me understand what are the disadvantages of having a 4.2.2 board? As I only have a few bits of understanding about FDM printers. I really need some enlightenment to help me decide if I should get this version. I can fairly tinker with anything so I am just more interested to know what are the needed upgrades/fixes should I buy the unit with the 4.2.2 control board. Please help :(
*p.s I only print with my resin lcd printer and am wanting to get an FDM for other projects, as seemingly, filaments are more economical than resin plus the strength of the prints are much better (which I would really need for my projects) rather than smoother surface quality. But I must say, the quality of your prints for those sample prints especially the Spiderman blew me away! I would love to learn how to print with that kind of quality!
Hi, mine has the 4.2.2 board it it works great. I believe the 4.2.7 can be a bit quieter but I am no expert. The main issue people have is with the processor chip. You want the one with 'RET6' and not 'RCT6' as it has less memory and makes updating firmware to something like Jyers firmware more difficult. If you can find out this information then you will be happier with the RET6 chip.
Also, the test prints are all done with virtually standard Cura profiles. I think I reduced retraction distance very slightly but nothing drastic.
@@RickyImpey Thank you for the response! I really appreciate it very much!
I guess I wouldn't mind the sound as the printer will be placed outside the room. I will try to ask the seller if they know what type of processor chip are in their units. Your response has given me a more optimistic view. I guess I'll just have to cross the bridge when I get there regarding any issues that may arise.
Also, would you know what parts are needed if say I wanted to go for printing nylon carbon filaments?
@@misteri09 If you want to make strong parts then I'd say you would be better off with an Ender 3 S1 Pro or another printer that is direct drive AND with an all metal hotend. The V2 can be converted to this spec down the line which is part of what makes it a great printer. But, if you know you want to print with higher temperature filaments, I would invest in a printer that is capable from the start if you can. Here is my S1 Pro review if you wanted to consider it th-cam.com/video/zEVVV3jDUX8/w-d-xo.html
@@RickyImpey good point! Going to watch the link now. Thank you so much!
I have a ender 3. Can it be upgraded to a v2? Or do I just need to buy that?
The reason I ask is, I have the 400xl exstension coming for my ender 3.
With the v2, I like the extruder nob, the X axis pulleys seem easier to take on and off and the hot end lighter because... I have a Microsoft direct drive on my ender 3 and I think it sags the X axis.
I wouldn't say that you'd convert to a V2. I don't think I'd worry about the screen etc. The hotend changes seem more cosmetic. Do you have a 32 bit board on your E3? I think that is probably the most important thing for print quality. Why not add a duel z axis kit with a belt to help support the X axis?
@@RickyImpey I have the 4.2.2 board. Is the 4.2.7 better?
@@RickyImpey I have the dual axis already. Were do I get the top pulleys?
@@smallnuts2 They come with some of the duel axis kits. I'm sure you can buy them separately. You just need two pulleys the same size and the right length belt.
@@RickyImpey thank you
Micro Center has these through August 7th or 8th, 2023, for $99.99. First 3D printer/print/slice for me, amazing print quality. Too cheap for me not to try.
Same here. There's no deal better than this. Micro Center rocks!
I've got a Neptune 3 and its nothing but trouble, after 3 firmware ugrades it still won't level correctly. In frustration I've just bought one of these and have experience faultless printing for 2 weeks now.
Sorry to hear you had problems but glad you are happy with what you have now.
Is the ender v2 better, or an upgraded model of the Ender 3 pro?
I'd say that 'better' is a matter of opinion. The Ender 3 Pro used to be shipped with an 8 bit mainboard but I believe they mainly ship with a 32 bit board now. The v2 has always had the 32 bit board which is better. The V2 also has a bigger colour screen but it doesn't allow you to do any more really. They also have different bed surfaces but I wouldn't necessarily say one is better than the other. The power supply is within the bas on the v2 rather than external so it's overall appearance is nicer.
The biqu B1 is a upgraded version of the ender 3v2 and I don't think the ender 3v2 os worth it in 2022
trying to find a good next printer after my time with ender 3 V2. any suggestions? want better speed so i can make more products faster with also good quality.
Hi, pushing the speeds is often a case of learning a lot about how to tune out the problems you get when you go faster. A lot of machines will print fast but the quality goes in one way or another. Some of the limiting factors to speeding up the Ender 3 V2 are the single lead screw, and in some ways the use of a remote extruder instead of a direct drive. This may sound odd because the weight of a direct drive extruder can mean you have to print slower but you have far less retractions which makes back a lot of time. If you want to go really fast the Core XY printers are known to be the most sturdy but if you just want to push a bit further, something like an Artillery Sidewinder X2 is really good out of the box th-cam.com/video/ob9vTK_vZYM/w-d-xo.html
Bed size not big enough? Ender extender
The fan noise keeps the cats away
You know EU do not shop from UK. Just thinking of your afiliate links in describtion.
Yes, thank you, but I don't have an EU Amazon affiliate account yet. Hopefully people in the EU can still find what they need from the UK and US links then searching.
Is 316€ too much for brand new ender3 v2 ?
My local electronics store sells it.
I could get cheaper from ebay but its used and will have shipping costs etc..
I Guess not worth buying from ebay?
Personally I wouldn't buy from eBay unless you know what guarantees you are getting. What country are you in? I'm sure there will be a retailer that will ship to you for far less than that.
can you convert this to laser engraver?
Yes it can, here's a good article on how all3dp.com/2/ender-3-laser-engraver-upgrade-all-you-need-to-know/
@@RickyImpey thank you
the elegoo neptune 4 pro is the better choice...as an ender 3 v2 neo owner
The amount of issues I’ve had with this brand is ridiculous 🤦🏻♂️ can’t even update the firmware without the entire thing breaking, even receiving 2 separate v2’s with both different firmware. Even attempting to install a CRtouch breaks it entirely. Which won’t even work. It’s sturdy it’s a nice build. But the firmware breaks so easily and cannot be easily integrated with new firmware without breaking would definitely not recommend this brand.
Unfortunately there will always be problems and it ses.like you've been unlucky enough to have more than your fair share. I have two Creality printers and both work well.
3 v2 add metal extruder microswiss hotend capricorn tube bl touch sual z axis and you got a monster oh dont forget the firmware latest greatest from marlin
After 4 years with first ender 3 I would tell buy it again. No 3d printer is a plug and forget it one.
Bought it because it was on sale for $212
Vyper has all upgraded needed
On paper it looks good. Hopefully I can try one one at some point 👍
"one problem" then you must be talking about different printer cuz my is complete junk (extruder cracked, fans not working, constant nozzle clogging)
ender 3 v2 is fantastic. but if you want plug and play basically any ender is not what you want. $300 is not a common plug and play price. 3d printing for the most part is a tinkering hobby that many dont realize and need to think about.
Please help. Neither my ender 3 or ender 5 are working. They both worked fine for a few weeks but then took a shit and only print birds nests if they print anything at all. I have done everything. New nozzles, new tubes, new beds, leveling a million times, new filament, checked the extruder for cracking, tightened and loosened the spring. I'm about to toss them out the window. If I could return them I would. Please help.
Hi, I'd love to help but you will need to focus on one specific problem at a time. Choose one printer and determine the first issue that causes a print to fail.
@@RickyImpey Hey thank you, the hot end stops extruding filament. I changed the speed in cura and increased the heat of the nozzle and bed by 10 degrees each and that helped for a few more lines, but still once it hits about 2 inches high, it will stop extruding. I also checked the xtruder for cracks, loosened and tightened the spring, etc and that did not seem to make a difference.
@@dwightschrute8726 it sounds like you may have a clog or a partial clog. Have you cleaned the hot end correctly and, most importantly, made sure the Bowden tube is pushed hard up to the back of the nozzle when you are done?
Ok was it just mine or did anyone else's motherboard come Coverd in hot glue?
Also mine came with a broken hub cap over the nozzle
Buy a Ender S1 best printer you can get for the money.
Yes the specs look great and if you know you are going to be doing a lot of printing then it's probably a good investment. I think a lot of people buy the E3v2 because of the low price when they don't know how much they're going to be printing. The only thing that would make me hesitant with the S1 though is the bed size. For very similar money you could have something bigger with very similar capabilities 🤔
@@RickyImpey like what? Examples please in the market for a printer😀
@@hectorreyes6884 Well.... Since writing the above comment, I've been sent an Ender 3 S1 Pro and it's actually better than I thought it would be😬 I have a review coming out next week so you can see what I think. With regards to alternatives, have you seen my Artillery Sidewinder X2 review? That's a great printer if you put a PEI bed on it. Nice large bed, direct drive, fast and accurate and a handy discount if you use the code in the description th-cam.com/video/ob9vTK_vZYM/w-d-xo.html
Why would you ever Ender-3 V2?
Out of the box it has:
- Suboptimal PSU placement that reduces cooling efficiency, combined with slim (read: hotter) PSU.
- TMC2208 drivers that can randomly refuse to work when you turn on Linear Advance. Basically, you'll have to either solder UART or replace the whole board.
- screen that does not support some Marlin features and does not support RepRap/Klipper at all, if you decide to go that route later.
- The fancy base can come warped beyond usability (this is also true for Voxelab Aquila). And the coating will die if you drop a hot nozzle on it (you will do that from time to time if you are a beginner).
Basically, Ender-3 V2 combines the worst from Ender-3 Pro and Voxelab Aquila while costing a little more. Just buy those. Or original Ender-3, if you don't mind a little more work.
Should you buy the Ender 3v2-NO! The first one was DOA. In the second one, the z-axis would not move. Junk!
Pro tip get straight to the point im not gonna sit and watch the whole video and i know im not alone, people like to find what they are looking for quickly at least add a thimbnail or wuick comment summary at bla bla bla timestamp
i only just built this unit, on Tues. last. i've had an Aquila X2for nearly year. so i have some experience.
i've only upgraded the bed springs[this took several hours to get as "just right" as i could] and the extruder to a dual gear model. with some initial difficulty in tramming/paralleling i am up and running and printing parts for a sock knitting machine. i actually bought this machine because the Aquila was DITW...the customer support was very slow or thorough, depending how you look at it. they sent a replacement main board and display...problem unresolved. they then sent a flashed board and new display and everything is back to normal...the troubleshooting process took, i think, in the neighbourhood of 2 months. that was two months too long without being able to print. so i saw a good advert on 'all3dp' and bought an ender 3 v2 for a great price for me. while waiting for shipment, i joined and perused an associated FB group for it and there seemed to be a swell of users with issues...i almost cancelled the order, but plowed ahead. i think i made a good choice, so far. 4 days in...LOL
thanks for you video, i'll surely subscribe and add you to the 'list'.
Thanks for your comment. Hopefully your experience will be smoother with the Ender 3 V2. As I said in the video, it's really worth paying attention to the details for a trouble free experience.
Don't worry, all I meant was that you can wipe the threads of the nozzle if they have filament on them but it will cool down quickly. If your nozzle is really dirty then check out my nozzle cleaning video th-cam.com/video/OmXlaqN3uog/w-d-xo.html
If you are a new user and using videos like this as a guide, don't. Creality is trash. Crtouch missing hardware, dual Z missing hardware. Only needed those 2 mods because the default printer is trash. Glass plate, can't be bothered to be flat. This a paid review? I hear they do that too. I'm sure these were good in 2018 when they made the design, 5 years later, same innovation (lack) and poor design (oversized Max without stock dual Z).
Sorry you've had a bad experience. This was 100% not a paid review. I bought this printer myself and have zero affiliation with Creality at this point. My reviews are always 100% my honest opinion and always will be. I still use my Ender 3 V2 daily. I genuinely love it.
i hate clickbaits
glass as a bed is 2014 lmfao how tf can you find it as improvement