Feel free to get in touch with me on FB if you have any troubleshooting questions! Support the channel and pick up these sick mojomoto parts for your CRF here >>> mojomotosport.com?aff=141
Being a mechanic / fitter / auto elec and having just got a bike from a friend whos moving, I found this to be great information. Keep up the good work, its nice to see someone making videos doing things the right way insteead of some of the backyard warrior shit that you find on youtube. Big ups!
Thanks. That was the motivation behind doing the videos. I've seen some wicked bad information being dished out on TH-cam and had to do something about it. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Definitely glad to help. Be sure to share the vids so the channel can grow and make more!
Sweet vid man! I’ve found that if you don’t want to buy one of those special tools for the fork cap. You can use a small pipe wrench. If you take your time and size it right it works without scaring anything
Glad you like the video. Electrical tape is the only way to go! Won't damage the fork or seal and costs next to nothing. You can carefully cut the wad of tape and use it as a base for next time you do seals, only need a few wraps instead of 1/4 roll. Thanks for watching and sharing!
They pay me big dollars to come up with this stuff (no they don't) but I also take full credit for inventing electrical tape seal drivers. Thank you for watching and please share!!
I Do Not like the electrical tape to set the seals! Because the correct seal driver contacts the Outer portion of the seal. The tape is pushing on the Actual Sealing lip of the New seals and Will deform and damage the new seals.. Other than that... Thanks for the Video.
Great video. One thing I don't understand is the draining @ 7:35. Why put fluid in the damper if you're just going to drain it back out? I must be missing something.
It needs to be a bit overfilled to make sure there isn't any air inside. Compressing the damper rod will bleed the excess out. If you don't do this you'll end up with more oil in your fork than intended.
Many times on the trail, I have found, because I read about it in dirt bike rider magazine. There may be gritt, or shit, in the dust seals, Clean it with old photo film. It may get you to the road, so you don’t have to abandon your bike in the forest.
I have a query about the fork shock absorber, I am changing the fork seal and when installing the fork cover assembly fork and adjust it, when I pump the shock absorber rod nothing returns and a part of the oil leaks through its two upper drainage holes, not if it is because of the O-rings and the Teflon bushings that it carries, I would infinitely appreciate if you can give me information about my case and that could be greetings!
Hi Axel, I think you’re talking about the damper rod not returning after being depressed into the damper body. That means you have a internal leak in the damper and it will need to be replaced to work perfectly; they are not serviceable. That being said, if you’re a recreational rider, you can probably just keep using the damper as it is, as long as the rod moves smoothly and there are no metal shavings. Hope that helps!
so you would think...these tools do go out of cal. and must be reset according to use. I send mine in about every two years. At work we calibrate them every night. Just some friendly advice :-)
Thanks! I assume you’re talking about setting your compression and rebound adjustment?? Turn them in until seated and then count how many clicks turning the adjuster out until seated. Divide by 2 and that will get you in the mid range for the settings and you can adjust to your preference from there. Best to adjust them after a few laps so the oil is warmed up.
fuhh i gotta replace my seals, but im not sure if im able to reuse my fork tube. A friend of mine crashed my bike and it has a gouge on the chrome tube. im assuming it will just destroy any new seals. and i really don't feel like buying new forks.
When I pumped the fork damper piston rod (6:36 in your vid), I had a good amount of fork fluid run down the rod itself. Is that normal or do I have another issue?
There’s a bushing in the damper that is likely worn if there’s a lot of fluid coming out. As long as the damper rod comes back out by itself after you put the cap back on you should be alright to use it. If all the pressure bleeds out and the damper won’t return then I’d get a new damper. Hope that helps! Hit me with a thumbs up and please share the video with your fiends!
@@CoteMotorcycles Thanks for the response! I think you are right - just seems like there is way too much oil coming out. I just recorded this vid of it: th-cam.com/video/Zz7u5Mbi5pY/w-d-xo.html
I'm having an issue with my damper, I fill it like u instructed but when I put the cap back on the top and compress it it leaks like crazy from the rod and after compressing a couple times it doesn't rebound.
Sounds like you'll need to replace your damper unfortunately. You may be able to find someone to rebuild it with a bunch of digging. I've always just replaced with new.
+Stephen Formalarie Contact brake and parts cleaner, avoid anything that will swell or dry out rubber. The towels are just blue shop towels available pretty much anywhere, try not to use paper towel as the fibers and lint will affect the fluid transmission in your fork. Thanks for watching and please SHARE!
Don't think so but I will double check. Always a good idea to have a shop manual for your model year of bike, they tend to change from time to time. Thanks for the comment!
Hi mate i just changed the fork seals on my crf, but when i fitted them to the bike and tested it out by pushing the front of the bike down a few times, the forks started squeaking and leaking oil evenly. I don't think i put the seals in backwards, but if i did by accident would that cause them to leak? Thanks
Good question. The seals are made to use the pressure from the liquid to seat harder against the sealing surface. If they're in backwards it will just be spring pressure sealing them. Should still seal by only pumping like you're doing. I would say you have defective seals, didn't clean the forks (debris in the chambers), tore the seals on the sharp recess where the bushing sits or have damage (rock chips ect) on the sealing surface. As far as the squeaking goes, it is probably just from your brakes, there's nothing in there to squeak unless your damper is damaged. If anything in your fork is damaged it will tend to make more of a grinding noise. Hope that helps and thanks for watching! Be sure to SHARE!
hi mate, just did service mine last week however mine isnt working the 18 or 19 clicks (dont remember how mine right now) of the rebound. the right fork is working them all, the left fork isnt, just working 4 or 5? whats wrong? cheers
Ooo. That’s a tough one. Could be the threads are gauled up on the adjuster or maybe something is lodged in the damper assembly. That would be one I would have to look at to find the culprit. Take it apart slowly and test what happens after every step you take. Eventually you’ll find what is binding.
Hey thanks for this video and the 450F rear shock video. I love doing things myself and was talking to the local bike shop about rebuilding the suspension myself and they all just looked at me like i was crazy. Your videos showed me that its not that hard and i dont need any specialty tools. While i have yet to actually start the rebuilds, seeing these videos shows me i can totally do it! Where do you recommend getting the replacement seals and such? Thanks again for a great how-to video! -Erik
+Erik Gutterud Get some all balls seals off ebay, amazon or from your motovan/partscanada/parts unlimited dealer. They're all I use and they hold up better than oem. I've also gone to my local industrial seal supply store with a seal for them to measure up and fit with a heavy equipment hydraulic seal. They're about $5/seal and last forever. About a 25% chance they'll have the exact size you need though. Or just buy the oem seals from your local shop($$$). Oil, you'll probably have to get from your dealer, haven't had any bad experience from any particular oil manufacturer, oem will just cost more. Good for you that you're taking it on yourself. Nothing to it, just need to be patient and take your time, speed comes with experience. Thanks for watching and please share!
+CoteMotorcycles Have you done the industrial seals for the 450? The shocks you are rebuilding are the same ones i have so i may have some luck there if you have found industrial seals. There is a local suspension guy that i was going have perform the rebuild, so i may as well throw him a bone and get the seals and oil from him considering im going to perform the work myself now. I like being able to do things like this myself. whenever there is something that seems so difficult, all it takes is a little research and patience and suddenly its not so difficult any more. Cheaper and it comes with a great sense of satisfaction. Of course videos like yours help immensely!
+Erik Gutterud Unfortunately I do hundreds of forks a year and don't recall which models I used commercial grade seals for. I've actually doubled seals up to make proper installation height before (oem = 11mm vs 2x 5.5mm = 11mm commercial) It usually came down to riders wanting to go racing for the weekend and it's friday night, so no time to order from the suppliers kinda deal. For industrial seals you'll have to physically take the oem seal in and the parts person will measure them up. Unless you ride tons of sand and mud and have leaky seals every 20 rides, it may be better just ordering aftermarket from the catalog every few years as the seals fail. Just throwing some different options out there, obviously its up to you if its viable or not. Happy wrenching!
Thanks for all the options. I should have known you do tons of these with the ease you did this. I'll post back here when I get the chance to complete this work. This bike hasn't been ridden in a few years so first I want to make sure it runs well. Any advice on getting bike that's been sitting ready again? I'm for sure going to clean the carb and and some other general clean up and an oil change. Anything else you can recommend? It's been stored in a garage so I don't thing rust should be an issue even though I live close to the ocean. Thanks for your input.
Hey man trying to change out an axle lug on a Showa fork WITHOUT completely dissembling the fork past the dampening rod on the bottom. Any tips? I don't have a vice or any special tools. Was planning on heating the axle lug with a torch avoiding damaging any seals and using a rubber mallet to try and knock the axle lug loose while holding the stanchion tube with my hand. I've already removed the tiny hex bolt that sets the lug in. No damage to the threads at all. What do you think?
no you cant, you have to dissasemble it with impact and 14 mm allen key socket, separate fork tubes put screwdriver trough the holes at the top of the stanchion, which is impossibe with dampening rod still in the fork remove set screw and then heat it up and try to remove...threads in aluminum are really sensitive and you may destroy the lug, some even say lug an get destroyed by water sitting in it.
+CoteMotorcycles I know, I'm just interested in getting a better look at it. I had plans on doing something very similar to my 450 and I saw that one, same graphics I ordered and everything
Have you noticed any difference yourself by adding 350 ml instead of standard 330... I just had my suspension re valved and the seals started leaking after the 6th ride so I got free seals of them and doing them myself (I've done it before on a spare pare) standard
I think I ruined my seal because the tap and old seal didn't stay in spot even tho it was clean and really tight. .. already got new seals and fork seal driver should be here tomorrow... any chance u know if they also do the washer and bushing ?
+illawarra Dirtbikes I'm not sure what you mean by "tap". If the bushings are worn, replace them. If they're still good, clean them up and re use. The "washer" or backing ring and snap ring are generally re usable, also based off condition. If you choose to use a seal driver, make sure you don't scratch the sealing surface of the inner tube or damage the seal.
Check your manual! The same model can vary year to year. Find a manual to download for your bike, they can be found for $10 sometimes. Believe it or not, even at $100, a manual is 100% worth it!
You'll need basic hand tools such as a socket set ranging from 8mm to 21mm as well as adjustable pliers, screwdrivers, electrical tape, graduated cylinder or measuring cup, bench with vise and a tie down. I may have missed something but you should watch the video through a few times before actually doing it. Make a list as you go through and you'll have all your bases covered.
Yup, you'll need basic metric open end wrenches and a fork cap removal tool if you don't want to mark up your fork cap. I believe the wrenches you'll need are 17 mm and 21mm but I'd double check on your specific fork.
384cc before 07 and 406.5cc after up to 2009 for the crf450. Best to get a manual for your bike though. They can be found online for free and will make life way easier when using these videos.
even the step by step video looks intimidating! suspension seems to be a mysterious black hole where rider understanding and knowledge goes to die. very confusing and intimidating
So use your channel locks if you don’t want to buy a $16 thin, box end wrench to fit the fork cap. Glad you took the time to write this comment instead of something constructive or positive, like maybe a, “thanks for taking the time out of your life to make a video to save me hundreds of dollars”.
@@CoteMotorcycles Ya i liked your video man gave it a thumps up but i had watched 2 videos prior to finding yours and they had special tools that i don't have right now so when i seen your title i was like shit i can do it without the "special tool," only reason why i left a comment and put an "lol" at the end because its not that serious at the end of the day! Would like to see new videos from you.
You're going to have to check a manual, almost every year is going to give a different capacity. As long as its measured like the video shows you'll be good. It bleeds to the correct level when the damper is compressed as long as its not under filled. Always a good idea to get a work shop manual when working on your bike, they are available cheap online and are instant download usually. Hope that helps, thanks for watching and be sure to share!
Feel free to get in touch with me on FB if you have any troubleshooting questions!
Support the channel and pick up these sick mojomoto parts for your CRF here >>> mojomotosport.com?aff=141
Electrical tape on the tube for a fork seal driver... genius!
Seriously...one of the best made videos on youtube...was much easier than the Honda manual!! Thanks
+Peter Christensen Thanks so much for watching and please be sure to share the videos so we can keep making more!
Yea you are right
@@CoteMotorcycles I saw this link on ThumperTalk and came to YT to like the vid. Well done, dude.
LJ Prep Glad you liked it! These vids were a ton of work so it’s awesome to hear they’re appreciated. Make sure you throw down a share!
Being a mechanic / fitter / auto elec and having just got a bike from a friend whos moving, I found this to be great information. Keep up the good work, its nice to see someone making videos doing things the right way insteead of some of the backyard warrior shit that you find on youtube. Big ups!
Thanks. That was the motivation behind doing the videos. I've seen some wicked bad information being dished out on TH-cam and had to do something about it. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Definitely glad to help. Be sure to share the vids so the channel can grow and make more!
One of the Best videos out there. I just changed both seals on a 2004 CRF. Make sure you have your manual on hand for fluid levels.
Sweet vid man! I’ve found that if you don’t want to buy one of those special tools for the fork cap. You can use a small pipe wrench. If you take your time and size it right it works without scaring anything
The electrical tape idea made my life a lot easier. This video is awesome! 0 special tools bought.
Glad you like the video. Electrical tape is the only way to go! Won't damage the fork or seal and costs next to nothing. You can carefully cut the wad of tape and use it as a base for next time you do seals, only need a few wraps instead of 1/4 roll. Thanks for watching and sharing!
the tie down idea is great..especially if I were to work on my WP suspension. thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for going complete on this video for real. From taking off the bike to putting back on just ...thanks.
ah, never thought to use a tie down to compress..thanks for that bro...
They pay me big dollars to come up with this stuff (no they don't) but I also take full credit for inventing electrical tape seal drivers. Thank you for watching and please share!!
+CoteMotorcycles the electrical tape is genius
I Do Not like the electrical tape to set the seals! Because the correct seal driver contacts the Outer portion of the seal. The tape is pushing on the Actual Sealing lip of the New seals and Will deform and damage the new seals.. Other than that... Thanks for the Video.
Great video. One thing I don't understand is the draining @ 7:35. Why put fluid in the damper if you're just going to drain it back out? I must be missing something.
It needs to be a bit overfilled to make sure there isn't any air inside. Compressing the damper rod will bleed the excess out. If you don't do this you'll end up with more oil in your fork than intended.
Many times on the trail, I have found, because I read about it in dirt bike rider magazine.
There may be gritt, or shit, in the dust seals,
Clean it with old photo film. It may get you to the road, so you don’t have to abandon your bike in the forest.
Loosen / crack most bolts nuts before taking everything apart it helps avoid unwanted pain
Great video! I used it to replace the seals and springs in my 03 CRF450R. This video made it very easy. Thanks!
This is the most understandable video I have found. Well explained. Cheers
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for this detailed step by step approach. Successful replacement for us!
Tie down and tape are both great ideas, doing my seals at the moment and that definitely helps a lot thank you
Cheers for your time and effort mate👍🏽👍🏽
great video
many thanks been a big help when helping my nephew with his crf xer :-)
I have a query about the fork shock absorber, I am changing the fork seal and when installing the fork cover assembly fork and adjust it, when I pump the shock absorber rod nothing returns and a part of the oil leaks through its two upper drainage holes, not if it is because of the O-rings and the Teflon bushings that it carries, I would infinitely appreciate if you can give me information about my case and that could be greetings!
Hi Axel,
I think you’re talking about the damper rod not returning after being depressed into the damper body. That means you have a internal leak in the damper and it will need to be replaced to work perfectly; they are not serviceable. That being said, if you’re a recreational rider, you can probably just keep using the damper as it is, as long as the rod moves smoothly and there are no metal shavings. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the vid man i am about to replace my fork seals was kind of scary but i am going to try
Good video! Helped me a lot! Thanks
Thanks for the comment! Be sure to subscribe and share the vids with your friends! More videos coming soon.
Electrical insulating tape is great idea.. Thansk for help :)
Great video mate, made it a very easy job for me
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video!
Can you do a video on how to lower the front and rear suspension on this bike?
Cheers
The electrical tape is a genius idea
is a 2003 crf150 similar?, it should be simpler as it does not have selectable dampening of anything
Mike Wilhelm It will be similar on a150r. The crf150f version is a piece of cake but this video won't help you in the least with that unfortunately.
What size is the fork cap?
Never use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt. You will have to re calibrate the tool if you do this.
That interesting. My torque wrench doesn't care which way it torques, doesn't affect it one bit.
so you would think...these tools do go out of cal. and must be reset according to use. I send mine in about every two years. At work we calibrate them every night. Just some friendly advice :-)
You have a special torque wrench for left hand threads?
Great video one of the best on youtube and the easy way to do it .. tnx a lot and how much clicks have to do the reset ?? Tnxx
Thanks!
I assume you’re talking about setting your compression and rebound adjustment?? Turn them in until seated and then count how many clicks turning the adjuster out until seated. Divide by 2 and that will get you in the mid range for the settings and you can adjust to your preference from there. Best to adjust them after a few laps so the oil is warmed up.
@@CoteMotorcycles yes becouse i change seal oil and oil and i want to know after that how many clicks i have to do tnx a lot 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video, very nicely explained...
Thanks!
How do you know the proper when there are holes in the tube?
Hey thanks for the video I have the 2008 crf450r and can't find anywhere what size fork wrench I need!
How much oil in the outer tube?
Up to 07 is 384 ml after 07 is 406.5 ml. 5 wt oil.
What do I buy to make my 2006 CRF70f sit higher of the ground. Because it looks weird at it’s normal height
ryan jones buy a bigger bike.
Great Video, I will try it... greetings from Germany
fuhh i gotta replace my seals, but im not sure if im able to reuse my fork tube. A friend of mine crashed my bike and it has a gouge on the chrome tube. im assuming it will just destroy any new seals. and i really don't feel like buying new forks.
If the chrome is damaged you'll have to replace it or get it repaired at a plating shop.
Thanks this video made it so easy
Thanks for watching! Please thumbs up and share!
When I pumped the fork damper piston rod (6:36 in your vid), I had a good amount of fork fluid run down the rod itself. Is that normal or do I have another issue?
There’s a bushing in the damper that is likely worn if there’s a lot of fluid coming out. As long as the damper rod comes back out by itself after you put the cap back on you should be alright to use it. If all the pressure bleeds out and the damper won’t return then I’d get a new damper. Hope that helps! Hit me with a thumbs up and please share the video with your fiends!
@@CoteMotorcycles Thanks for the response! I think you are right - just seems like there is way too much oil coming out. I just recorded this vid of it:
th-cam.com/video/Zz7u5Mbi5pY/w-d-xo.html
mmkenned If you’re pro, replace ; rec rider, run it and see how it goes. Those things are expensive!
What brand and scale range torque wrenches do you use for your bikes? I'm sure you have two or three different scale ranges.
Size fork cap wrench? I picked up a 46/50 for my 09 Crf450r hope I got the right size.. replacing fork seals tmrw.
sure would've been nice to know how much fork oil to put into each section, but great video!
There's a lot of different specs over the years covered so you should use a manual for your bikes specifications.
I'm having an issue with my damper, I fill it like u instructed but when I put the cap back on the top and compress it it leaks like crazy from the rod and after compressing a couple times it doesn't rebound.
Sounds like you'll need to replace your damper unfortunately. You may be able to find someone to rebuild it with a bunch of digging. I've always just replaced with new.
Great video! I'm going to use it tomorrow night, rebuilding my forks!
I wonder though, is it the same oil in the damper as in the forkleg?
Good to hear! Use the same oil. Thanks for watching and please share the videos if you liked them!
Hey whats the cleaning spray and type of cloth you're using? Is it something like a brake cleaner or something else?
+Stephen Formalarie Contact brake and parts cleaner, avoid anything that will swell or dry out rubber. The towels are just blue shop towels available pretty much anywhere, try not to use paper towel as the fibers and lint will affect the fluid transmission in your fork. Thanks for watching and please SHARE!
Great video. I think you might be saying newton-meters when you actually mean ft-lbs, Again, great video.
Don't think so but I will double check. Always a good idea to have a shop manual for your model year of bike, they tend to change from time to time. Thanks for the comment!
just google and convert nm to ft lbs, metric and imperial man, hes not wrong just diffferent units
Cam Carr it's honda so there for everything is in metric so no he's saying correct
good video man! you should change the video cover for one more atractive! Thanks
Hi mate i just changed the fork seals on my crf, but when i fitted them to the bike and tested it out by pushing the front of the bike down a few times, the forks started squeaking and leaking oil evenly. I don't think i put the seals in backwards, but if i did by accident would that cause them to leak?
Thanks
Good question. The seals are made to use the pressure from the liquid to seat harder against the sealing surface. If they're in backwards it will just be spring pressure sealing them. Should still seal by only pumping like you're doing. I would say you have defective seals, didn't clean the forks (debris in the chambers), tore the seals on the sharp recess where the bushing sits or have damage (rock chips ect) on the sealing surface. As far as the squeaking goes, it is probably just from your brakes, there's nothing in there to squeak unless your damper is damaged. If anything in your fork is damaged it will tend to make more of a grinding noise. Hope that helps and thanks for watching! Be sure to SHARE!
Well done video.
Thanks Alan!
Nice... my forks r leaking bad.. need 2 reseal them. Where can I find the cap tool?
You should be able to get an aftermarket motion pro tool from your local dealer or off of eBay.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to share with your riding friends!
hi mate, just did service mine last week however mine isnt working the 18 or 19 clicks (dont remember how mine right now) of the rebound. the right fork is working them all, the left fork isnt, just working 4 or 5? whats wrong? cheers
Ooo. That’s a tough one. Could be the threads are gauled up on the adjuster or maybe something is lodged in the damper assembly. That would be one I would have to look at to find the culprit. Take it apart slowly and test what happens after every step you take. Eventually you’ll find what is binding.
Hey thanks for this video and the 450F rear shock video. I love doing things myself and was talking to the local bike shop about rebuilding the suspension myself and they all just looked at me like i was crazy. Your videos showed me that its not that hard and i dont need any specialty tools. While i have yet to actually start the rebuilds, seeing these videos shows me i can totally do it!
Where do you recommend getting the replacement seals and such?
Thanks again for a great how-to video!
-Erik
+Erik Gutterud Get some all balls seals off ebay, amazon or from your motovan/partscanada/parts unlimited dealer. They're all I use and they hold up better than oem. I've also gone to my local industrial seal supply store with a seal for them to measure up and fit with a heavy equipment hydraulic seal. They're about $5/seal and last forever. About a 25% chance they'll have the exact size you need though. Or just buy the oem seals from your local shop($$$). Oil, you'll probably have to get from your dealer, haven't had any bad experience from any particular oil manufacturer, oem will just cost more. Good for you that you're taking it on yourself. Nothing to it, just need to be patient and take your time, speed comes with experience. Thanks for watching and please share!
+CoteMotorcycles
Have you done the industrial seals for the 450? The shocks you are rebuilding are the same ones i have so i may have some luck there if you have found industrial seals.
There is a local suspension guy that i was going have perform the rebuild, so i may as well throw him a bone and get the seals and oil from him considering im going to perform the work myself now.
I like being able to do things like this myself. whenever there is something that seems so difficult, all it takes is a little research and patience and suddenly its not so difficult any more. Cheaper and it comes with a great sense of satisfaction. Of course videos like yours help immensely!
+Erik Gutterud Unfortunately I do hundreds of forks a year and don't recall which models I used commercial grade seals for. I've actually doubled seals up to make proper installation height before (oem = 11mm vs 2x 5.5mm = 11mm commercial) It usually came down to riders wanting to go racing for the weekend and it's friday night, so no time to order from the suppliers kinda deal. For industrial seals you'll have to physically take the oem seal in and the parts person will measure them up. Unless you ride tons of sand and mud and have leaky seals every 20 rides, it may be better just ordering aftermarket from the catalog every few years as the seals fail. Just throwing some different options out there, obviously its up to you if its viable or not. Happy wrenching!
Thanks for all the options. I should have known you do tons of these with the ease you did this. I'll post back here when I get the chance to complete this work. This bike hasn't been ridden in a few years so first I want to make sure it runs well.
Any advice on getting bike that's been sitting ready again? I'm for sure going to clean the carb and and some other general clean up and an oil change. Anything else you can recommend? It's been stored in a garage so I don't thing rust should be an issue even though I live close to the ocean. Thanks for your input.
I would be cleaning/greasing the shock/swing arm linkage and then go through each one of our videos and make sure that area of your bike is covered.
Thanks for the help
can i clean the internals with petrol?
is it necessary to get new dust seals or would u get away with just getting oil seals thanks! nive video 😀
Sorry I missed this comment. No you don't need to replace the dust wipers but clean them good. Better late than never?
+CoteMotorcycles no problem thanks
2:08 I thought the title says NO SPECIAL TOOLS, I don't have a "proper" fork wrench laying around bud. But anyway great video.
Velotrol adjustable wrenches work as well👍
Hey man trying to change out an axle lug on a Showa fork WITHOUT completely dissembling the fork past the dampening rod on the bottom. Any tips? I don't have a vice or any special tools. Was planning on heating the axle lug with a torch avoiding damaging any seals and using a rubber mallet to try and knock the axle lug loose while holding the stanchion tube with my hand. I've already removed the tiny hex bolt that sets the lug in. No damage to the threads at all. What do you think?
no you cant, you have to dissasemble it with impact and 14 mm allen key socket, separate fork tubes put screwdriver trough the holes at the top of the stanchion, which is impossibe with dampening rod still in the fork remove set screw and then heat it up and try to remove...threads in aluminum are really sensitive and you may destroy the lug, some even say lug an get destroyed by water sitting in it.
All I've ever done was oil and spark plug change. This looks daunting 😮💨
It’s not that bad! Take your time and if something doesn’t feel right, take another look at it.
Are 2009-2012 forks different?
What's up with that dope ass blacked out bike with the silver star graphics that is the screen shot on a bunch of your videos but not in the videos?
Better to tear down stock bikes, don't have to worry about scratching them.
+CoteMotorcycles I know, I'm just interested in getting a better look at it. I had plans on doing something very similar to my 450 and I saw that one, same graphics I ordered and everything
+TheKB15L I think there's some pictures on our old website. Search cotemotorcycles and it should pop up.
Arn't u supposed to change the clickers before u disassemble it?
You can check them for reference but it won't do you much good adjusting before dismantling them.
Have you noticed any difference yourself by adding 350 ml instead of standard 330...
I just had my suspension re valved and the seals started leaking after the 6th ride so I got free seals of them and doing them myself
(I've done it before on a spare pare) standard
+illawarra Dirtbikes it's really all personal preference / weight / type of riding. Test a bunch of different set ups and see what you like.
I think I ruined my seal because the tap and old seal didn't stay in spot even tho it was clean and really tight. .. already got new seals and fork seal driver should be here tomorrow... any chance u know if they also do the washer and bushing ?
+illawarra Dirtbikes I'm not sure what you mean by "tap". If the bushings are worn, replace them. If they're still good, clean them up and re use. The "washer" or backing ring and snap ring are generally re usable, also based off condition. If you choose to use a seal driver, make sure you don't scratch the sealing surface of the inner tube or damage the seal.
Spot on thanks a heap!!!
Would this be the same for a 2012? I saw something on a forum about not having a spring inside?
Different fork. 12 had an air chamber spring I believe.
How much oil in that suspension????
Check your manual! The same model can vary year to year. Find a manual to download for your bike, they can be found for $10 sometimes. Believe it or not, even at $100, a manual is 100% worth it!
nice tips bro
Thanks for the great video.👍
Thanks
Thanks for watching! Please thumbs up and share!
Can you give me list of all the tool I would be using
You'll need basic hand tools such as a socket set ranging from 8mm to 21mm as well as adjustable pliers, screwdrivers, electrical tape, graduated cylinder or measuring cup, bench with vise and a tie down. I may have missed something but you should watch the video through a few times before actually doing it. Make a list as you go through and you'll have all your bases covered.
+CoteMotorcycles What about the flat wrenches
Yup, you'll need basic metric open end wrenches and a fork cap removal tool if you don't want to mark up your fork cap. I believe the wrenches you'll need are 17 mm and 21mm but I'd double check on your specific fork.
You are the man gooood vid
is this similiar to a cr125?
yes very almost identical
What year bike is this?
Yo Tristan! 2004 Thanks for watching!
how much oil are you suppose to fill the forks?
384cc before 07 and 406.5cc after up to 2009 for the crf450. Best to get a manual for your bike though. They can be found online for free and will make life way easier when using these videos.
even the step by step video looks intimidating! suspension seems to be a mysterious black hole where rider understanding and knowledge goes to die. very confusing and intimidating
Naw, you got this. It’s just oil moving through holes!
Special tool used was a fork wrench? lol
So use your channel locks if you don’t want to buy a $16 thin, box end wrench to fit the fork cap. Glad you took the time to write this comment instead of something constructive or positive, like maybe a, “thanks for taking the time out of your life to make a video to save me hundreds of dollars”.
@@CoteMotorcycles Ya i liked your video man gave it a thumps up but i had watched 2 videos prior to finding yours and they had special tools that i don't have right now so when i seen your title i was like shit i can do it without the "special tool," only reason why i left a comment and put an "lol" at the end because its not that serious at the end of the day! Would like to see new videos from you.
Nice... my forks r leaking bad.. need 2 reseal them. Where can I find the cap tool?
Thanks for this wonderful video!
Thanks for watching!!
Is this the same procedure for a 2010 CRF250R?
Should be. I don’t remember what year they came out with air forks on the crf though.
@@CoteMotorcycles Thank you, mine are just oil damped.
How much oil in the inner?
You're going to have to check a manual, almost every year is going to give a different capacity. As long as its measured like the video shows you'll be good. It bleeds to the correct level when the damper is compressed as long as its not under filled. Always a good idea to get a work shop manual when working on your bike, they are available cheap online and are instant download usually. Hope that helps, thanks for watching and be sure to share!