Handsome bike. Has the styling of the earlier GS1100 without the clunky square headlight and instrument cluster. “Most carburetor issues are ignition, and most ignition problems are carburetion”
Well said. I have figured out the actual issue but not before swapping out just about every electrical component and messing with the carbs repeatedly. The previous owner had turned the timing plate completely over to one side. When I set it back to the stock timing mark, it ran fine. I will never make that oversight again!
Wish I would have kept mine, but I traded it in on a V45 magna. Both bikes are really fun bikes. I’m going to check out the brake line company. Thanks for the upload Jon
Hi Jon, the GS has come up well. Looking good. Loving the polished ali. I personally didn't think braking was bad on any of the anti dive fitted bikes I had back in the 80's, GPz's. If you are not happy with it, you could take them off and blank out the fitting point. When I upgraded the front forks on one of my Z's I bought a set of PD Valves or Cartridge Emulator's. They work well an they do drastically reduce the dive. I think that the modern bikes still use anti dive but it is now internally as these items. Try out a set of Hyper-Pro Springs. Much better steel than the Progressive Brand. I heard you mention of thinking about upgraded br pads. You are talking about the sintered ones. My advice is not to. Yes, sintered pads do work well for racing conditions. I tried a set out yrs ago when I was instructing. Sintered pads are harder than your discs and they will eat the metal of the disc. As part of my teaching, I regularly had to make students do brake runs. Organic pads pull up well. I also never noticed any difference from using or with the students using the sintered ones. Just the added cost of the new disc. And that was on just one set of sintered. They didn't just wear the disc thinner, but from the outside of the brake contact to the inside, the surface of the disc felt like a dirt bike track with jumps. I hope you have luck with sorting the occasional flat spot. As you have tried most things, one thing that might be worth exploring is dropping down one number on your spark plug, get a slightly hotter plug. Especially as you live in a cooler climate. Another thing you could try, is adding octane boost, as these older bikes, even though they are set up for unleaded fuel, they were originally designed to run leaded
Thanks! Lots of great recommendations. I ended up using a spacer in the fork tubes with the stock springs as a compromise. It now dives less and still rides nice.
Enjoyed the video Jon . It, to me looks as good as the 1100 just smaller displacement. Picked up the 96 VFR750. I need to check the choke cable. The lever moves freely, but with little to no effect. RIDE SAFE JON!
Handsome bike. Has the styling of the earlier GS1100 without the clunky square headlight and instrument cluster. “Most carburetor issues are ignition, and most ignition problems are carburetion”
Well said. I have figured out the actual issue but not before swapping out just about every electrical component and messing with the carbs repeatedly. The previous owner had turned the timing plate completely over to one side. When I set it back to the stock timing mark, it ran fine. I will never make that oversight again!
Wish I would have kept mine, but I traded it in on a V45 magna. Both bikes are really fun bikes. I’m going to check out the brake line company. Thanks for the upload Jon
Sounds good Russ. I'll be ordering more brake lines from Spiegler later this week.
You're killing me!!
GET ON THAT BEAST!!
I get on it more in this comparison: th-cam.com/video/nBLqrKOh-m8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PIZ3v5yxUmm8Y_CV
Hi Jon, the GS has come up well. Looking good. Loving the polished ali.
I personally didn't think braking was bad on any of the anti dive fitted bikes I had back in the 80's, GPz's.
If you are not happy with it, you could take them off and blank out the fitting point.
When I upgraded the front forks on one of my Z's I bought a set of PD Valves or Cartridge Emulator's. They work well an they do drastically reduce the dive.
I think that the modern bikes still use anti dive but it is now internally as these items.
Try out a set of Hyper-Pro Springs. Much better steel than the Progressive Brand.
I heard you mention of thinking about upgraded br pads. You are talking about the sintered ones. My advice is not to.
Yes, sintered pads do work well for racing conditions.
I tried a set out yrs ago when I was instructing.
Sintered pads are harder than your discs and they will eat the metal of the disc.
As part of my teaching, I regularly had to make students do brake runs. Organic pads pull up well.
I also never noticed any difference from using or with the students using the sintered ones. Just the added cost of the new disc. And that was on just one set of sintered.
They didn't just wear the disc thinner, but from the outside of the brake contact to the inside, the surface of the disc felt like a dirt bike track with jumps.
I hope you have luck with sorting the occasional flat spot. As you have tried most things, one thing that might be worth exploring is dropping down one number on your spark plug, get a slightly hotter plug. Especially as you live in a cooler climate.
Another thing you could try, is adding octane boost, as these older bikes, even though they are set up for unleaded fuel, they were originally designed to run leaded
Thanks! Lots of great recommendations. I ended up using a spacer in the fork tubes with the stock springs as a compromise. It now dives less and still rides nice.
Enjoyed the video Jon . It, to me looks as good as the 1100 just smaller displacement. Picked up the 96 VFR750. I need to check the choke cable. The lever moves freely, but with little to no effect. RIDE SAFE JON!
Awesome, thanks Henry!
gd vid jon and a golden oldie bike.
Thanks David!