Call the gasket a ‘barrier’ to prevent the dissimilar metals from touching and working that galvanic action corroding both. I like your ideas here. The bondo is a good one, but adds weight, well some weight. Maybe a high-build finisher like red finishing putty would work as the seal under the primer and paint? Or, just thought of this one, high temp epoxy or epoxy coating/paint? They would be lighter and seal the surfaces which is really the big deal here. Some epoxies ‘fail’ under heat - wander how well the bondo (polyester + glass filler) withstands the kind of heat of water on the hot cycles? The spider is really not supposed to be immersed in the wash water anyway, right? It just encounter wash water and soap that leaks past the failing rubber shaft-seal. Hey, I’m thinking this through, your video has given me some food for thought. I’m going to try repairing the original struts on my LG WM4000H*A/01. I was headed for a bearing, seal and spider R&R but I think (2years old) it seems like the bearings are halfway decent yet. Replaced the struts (3 ‘shock absorbers’) with the AMZN/*bay specials, but after literally 6 loads they’re as bad as the worn out originals and I can move the drum 3 1/2” with my little finger. Went to a vendor’s store and tried shifting drums on similar LG’s and with the power of my arm could only move them fractions of an inch…if I ever get that deep into it, I’ll look carefully at treating the new spider this sorta way!
The spider arm is constantly underwater and soap there's holes all around the drum but yeah epoxy would work but it's really expensive fiberglass is cheaper and the epoxy paint is waterproof I ran it on the highest cycle which is basket clean and it has held up I checked the filter for paint and no paint so far so far so good
Aluminium oxide is actually quite a good insulator all by itself, so direct contact between the aluminium spider and the stainless steel drum doesn't cause the corrosion. Spiders corrode primarily due to oxygen concentration cell corrosion (or crevice corrosion if you prefer), due to a build up of crud (* biofilm) excluding oxygen from the surface of the aluminium and retaining moisture. Variations in oxygen concentration create potential differences across the surface of the aluminium and that's what causes the corrosion to occur, on top of which the lack of available oxygen prevents the aluminium oxide passivation layer reforming. Under the right conditions the same process can even corrode stainless steel, which is why you don't use stainless steel screws below the waterline in wooden boats, especially not if they go in salt water. Another type of corrosion which will accelerate the first is microbially induced, where anaerobic bacteria produces hydrogen sulphide which forms an acid that causes pitting, which penetrates the passivation layer causing the onset of crevice corrosion. * Biofilm typically consists of bacteria, mould, liquid detergent and softener residue, lint, hair, dead skin cells and body oils and whathaveyou. My machine is 15 years old and still has the original spider, which was corrosion free, crud free and in perfect condition when I changed the bearings - I use powder detergent and an annual boil wash with citric acid to clean and descale the machine.
So in a few months of spinning and vibrations, the fiberglass cracks and lifts from the pockets, causing the spider to be way off balance and it self destructs.
If it goes badly off balance the machine won't spin at full speed due to OOB protection. But if the coating fails and allows moisture to penetrate to the aluminium it will cause crevice corrosion, just as the layer of biofilm crud would. You can get the same problem caused by peeling paint on metal.
![เปิดคำทำนาย นอสตราดามุส - บาบา วานก้า ปี 2025 คนทั่วโลกต้องเจออะไรบ้าง? | แฉ 11 ธ.ค. 67 [2/3] |GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xmTIKWJUMPM/mqdefault.jpg)
Call the gasket a ‘barrier’ to prevent the dissimilar metals from touching and working that galvanic action corroding both.
I like your ideas here. The bondo is a good one, but adds weight, well some weight. Maybe a high-build finisher like red finishing putty would work as the seal under the primer and paint? Or, just thought of this one, high temp epoxy or epoxy coating/paint? They would be lighter and seal the surfaces which is really the big deal here. Some epoxies ‘fail’ under heat - wander how well the bondo (polyester + glass filler) withstands the kind of heat of water on the hot cycles? The spider is really not supposed to be immersed in the wash water anyway, right? It just encounter wash water and soap that leaks past the failing rubber shaft-seal.
Hey, I’m thinking this through, your video has given me some food for thought. I’m going to try repairing the original struts on my LG WM4000H*A/01. I was headed for a bearing, seal and spider R&R but I think (2years old) it seems like the bearings are halfway decent yet. Replaced the struts (3 ‘shock absorbers’) with the AMZN/*bay specials, but after literally 6 loads they’re as bad as the worn out originals and I can move the drum 3 1/2” with my little finger. Went to a vendor’s store and tried shifting drums on similar LG’s and with the power of my arm could only move them fractions of an inch…if I ever get that deep into it, I’ll look carefully at treating the new spider this sorta way!
The spider arm is constantly underwater and soap there's holes all around the drum but yeah epoxy would work but it's really expensive fiberglass is cheaper and the epoxy paint is waterproof I ran it on the highest cycle which is basket clean and it has held up I checked the filter for paint and no paint so far so far so good
Aluminium oxide is actually quite a good insulator all by itself, so direct contact between the aluminium spider and the stainless steel drum doesn't cause the corrosion.
Spiders corrode primarily due to oxygen concentration cell corrosion (or crevice corrosion if you prefer), due to a build up of crud (* biofilm) excluding oxygen from the surface of the aluminium and retaining moisture. Variations in oxygen concentration create potential differences across the surface of the aluminium and that's what causes the corrosion to occur, on top of which the lack of available oxygen prevents the aluminium oxide passivation layer reforming. Under the right conditions the same process can even corrode stainless steel, which is why you don't use stainless steel screws below the waterline in wooden boats, especially not if they go in salt water.
Another type of corrosion which will accelerate the first is microbially induced, where anaerobic bacteria produces hydrogen sulphide which forms an acid that causes pitting, which penetrates the passivation layer causing the onset of crevice corrosion.
* Biofilm typically consists of bacteria, mould, liquid detergent and softener residue, lint, hair, dead skin cells and body oils and whathaveyou.
My machine is 15 years old and still has the original spider, which was corrosion free, crud free and in perfect condition when I changed the bearings - I use powder detergent and an annual boil wash with citric acid to clean and descale the machine.
What was the purpose of sanding the stainless steel drum? Sanding stainless introduces the possibility of rust if I'm not mistaken
So the silicone has something to grab to
So in a few months of spinning and vibrations, the fiberglass cracks and lifts from the pockets, causing the spider to be way off balance and it self destructs.
Mine has been fine
If it goes badly off balance the machine won't spin at full speed due to OOB protection. But if the coating fails and allows moisture to penetrate to the aluminium it will cause crevice corrosion, just as the layer of biofilm crud would. You can get the same problem caused by peeling paint on metal.