Hi, There are cutters where you can cut a bit into the shoulder. The cutter is set to match the angle of the shoulder so it can run into the shoulder so slightly and get rid of that ring that you get when you stop with a straight cutters. the 21st century and K&M are tools with angled cutters. Of course anyone with a mini lathe can setup one too very fast.
Can I neck down a 7.62*39 to 7mm using the same method? There are 6mm PPC and .220 russian based on the neck down of 7.62*39, so I'm considering it....
+Citizen Daologist You can make a wildcat. You'll probably have to get custom dies and a custom chamber or reamer for chambering your own. It's an involved process, though.
If your OAL increases from shooting and you have to trim it.....how does your brass last forever??? That excess brass has to come from somewhere (probably in neck/shoulder thickness) and it can't be replenished. Just asking, thanks, love the videos!
I love the idea of this series and have subscribed and liked. I ordered a rifle, albeit with a accutrigger, and I have large amount of Lake City 308 brass, which I annealed. I found that I could not resize the necked down brass with a standard Lee full length 7mm-08 die because necking down to 0.284 made the inside dimension too small to allow the resizing swage to pass back up and stuck no matter how much lube was used. Instead I removed the decapping rod, necked down the annealed 308 brass to 0.284, reamed the inside to 0.284, resized the brass and then noticed the neck was much closer to spec. I intend to outside trim to remove variations, but wonder if this is the right way to go. Otherwise I would need an expander die to open the resized cases to be close to allowing a bullet to be seated before outside trimming. Does this make sense?
I've been where you are when resizing down to .243. The inner diameter was much too small. I use a reamer, too. It's a great way to go. I'm surprised the .284 step stuck. Maybe my decapper rod is smoother from use or something. Good luck, man. Whatever works!
For this initial workup, it's a complete case resize, but afterward I usually just do a neck resize. I might be changing my procedure, though. Most of the guys I shoot with are doing full-length sizes each time to make loading and extracting easier.
I hear you, I too resize the entire case, and on occasion been questioned as to why. I feel the benefits out weigh the problems one can encounter loading and extracting, as you pointed out..
My experience when altering bras to another caliber is remove the inner sizing die, the football. Then trim the ID (not the OD) then run them thru the size again with the inner size (football) installed. Cutting the OD makes for fragile brass
I think it might be a necessary action when stepping down this far. The neck needs to have room to expand, and when I tried firing some rounds without reduction, there were signs of excessive pressure. Once I turned the necks the cartridge behaved appropriately.
I would very highly recommend it. The necks are just too thick for safe discharge. 7mm-08 seems to run at high pressures for me no matter what; if I can find some relief somewhere in the process, then I'll take it.
NADS IQ Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. It will be a useful piece of equipment, though, especially if you use ball-type neck sizer dies. If you need a decent budget-friendly turner, I use the Forster handheld neck turner. It's not as solid as a bench-mounted turner, but it works.
+Scooterider1 Thanks for subscribing! I'm glad you're enjoying this series. Reshaping brass seems mystical at first, but with a few tools it's actually pretty easy. There are a bunch of excellent cartridges that use .308 as a parent case. .260 Remington is a direct competitor to 6.5 Creedmoor. .243 Winchester is just .308 necked down to 6mm. .338 Federal is necked UP for larger game. For the smaller necks, like 6.5mm and 6mm, you need to resize the neck twice. I've made .243 brass by necking down to 7mm first, then running down to .243.
+Beavis6940 Great question! It was mostly a matter of cost. Once-fired .308 brass is cheap. The stuff you see in this video was actually free. I was at a 3-Gun Nation tournament a few months ago and the guys from Surgeon let me scrounge their brass. Winning!
@@SocialRegressive A follow up question, was it really worth the time and tedium to go through this process or am I just overestimating the amount of work? What's the ratio of money saved to time spent here?
They don't last forever, incipient case head separation becomes an issue, with all the stretching of the brass due to repeated firing and resizing, the brass begins to thin near the case head and create a light colouration almost like a ring.
Case head seperation is a not really an issue IF you properly setup your sizing die to push back the shoulder .001"- .002". I have annealed(every firing) and full length resized many manufacturer's brass (some as much as 16x)using this method and the first thing to go has always been the primer pocket loosening.
I'm a bit late, but a quick question, why do you use 308's and reduce them down to 7mm-08 instead of just reloading 7mm-08's? I thought the 7mm actually came from 308, so the base case is the same size either way right? It just comes from factory necked down. What am I missing?
Hi again! I'm here studying your hole channel, and I don't if here is the right place to ask but I need a little help then here I go. I still didn't see in your channel you using a rollsizer but here everyone roll sizes 9mm brass before reloading process. They basically say that Dilon's dies do not cover all 9mm brass so causing malfunction when shoot (Dilon 750XL is the most popular realoding press here). In your experience, is a rollsizer really necessary? I intend to buy a lee turret classic to start my reloads. First 9mm to learn, when I become good at, I'll start with .223 and .308s one. Thank you!
I don't use a rollsizer, and I've never had any issues reloading my own 9mm brass (or even decent-quality range brass). The rollsizer sounds like a great solution for folks that reload a LOT and want to make sure their brass is more concentric.
@@SocialRegressive How many times do you usually reload the same brass? My range's folks here reload at least 8 to 13 times the same 9mm brass. Ammo is too expensive here (about 80usd a box w/ 50 9mm), that's the reason people do so many reloads. Thank you again for so many lessons!
I've just discovered this series and am loving it! After considering differeing ammo options for some time, interestingly, I had narrowed down my choices to the same four you initially did in this series. Then, I narrowed those down further to two: the 7mm-08 and the .270 Win. These are both wonderful rounds, so I think your ultimately choice of the 7mm-08 is a great one! But here's a question: If you were going to go with factory ammo rather than handloaded, would you have chosen a different one of the four? And if so, which one? I ask because, although I do intend to do some handloading, I'd also really like to have the option of buying factory ammo in a pinch when necessary. (I'm currently leaning a bit toward the .270 Win but I'm still vascillating on that one.) Thanks so much for this clearly articulated and practical series!
In that case, I would lean toward 6.5 creedmoor or 308 win. The variety and quality of ammo for both is fantastic. 270 win has gotten a lot better, too, since we now have hunting bullets that can double as target rounds. Can't lose!
@@SocialRegressive I do already have a .308 Savage (not that that's a bad thing), so I was thinking of going with something different. There do seem to be more options in 6.5 CM than there were even a few years ago, so maybe I'll go with that one. Thanks!
I have a 17/223 wildcat chambered rifle that I need to create brass to reload with. I know I can buy a die set from Hornady for about $70. Would this process be necessary before necking down the brass?
As long as you anneal the brass and run it through a full-length sizer die from any manufacturer, you'll be in good shape. How fast do those .17 bullets go?
Thanks for the information! According to Hodgdon information, I can expect 25gr. bullets to peak around 3990 FPS out of a 22" barrel. I have an H&R Ultra Wildcat that my dad got at a steal of a price from a guy who didn't want to do the work/research. It's got an 18" barrel, so I expect a 48FPS drop. Once I anneal the brass, and resize it, then it will ready for fireforming, correct? After fireforming, does one run the brass through the full-length die again? I would imagine no, because it should be perfect for my chamber after that, is that correct? Thank you for the previous response!
That should be the appropriate method. After it's fireformed, a neck sizer alone should do the job. What a fun project! Keep in touch. I'd like to hear how it turns out.
Great video. Couple things. I'm not big on removing lube in a tumbler. In my opinion it degrades the media. I may be being picky, or frankly completely wrong, but I like my media in the best condition I can keep it. While on the subject of lube, have you tried CH sizing wax. Granted there are a hundred different lubes out there if you count all the home-brew style lubes but I've had good luck with CH. Their inside neck lube is also good. www.ch4d.com/products/supplies CH also makes some stuck case extractors that if anyone is having issues they can pick up one of those while reexamining their lube situation. I also agree regarding the Hornady ELD. They seem to be very good. On your annealing video, I don't recall if you mentioned it or not but it helps to dim the lights when annealing. Keep up the good work on your videos I think there are quite a few people out there learning some good things.
Hi, There are cutters where you can cut a bit into the shoulder. The cutter is set to match the angle of the shoulder so it can run into the shoulder so slightly and get rid of that ring that you get when you stop with a straight cutters. the 21st century and K&M are tools with angled cutters. Of course anyone with a mini lathe can setup one too very fast.
+nyshenaniguns I actually have access to a lathe now. I can't wait to see how quickly this work goes next time I need to do a little neck turning.
Can I neck down a 7.62*39 to 7mm using the same method? There are 6mm PPC and .220 russian based on the neck down of 7.62*39, so I'm considering it....
+Citizen Daologist You can make a wildcat. You'll probably have to get custom dies and a custom chamber or reamer for chambering your own. It's an involved process, though.
If your OAL increases from shooting and you have to trim it.....how does your brass last forever??? That excess brass has to come from somewhere (probably in neck/shoulder thickness) and it can't be replenished. Just asking, thanks, love the videos!
I love the idea of this series and have subscribed and liked. I ordered a rifle, albeit with a accutrigger, and I have large amount of Lake City 308 brass, which I annealed. I found that I could not resize the necked down brass with a standard Lee full length 7mm-08 die because necking down to 0.284 made the inside dimension too small to allow the resizing swage to pass back up and stuck no matter how much lube was used. Instead I removed the decapping rod, necked down the annealed 308 brass to 0.284, reamed the inside to 0.284, resized the brass and then noticed the neck was much closer to spec. I intend to outside trim to remove variations, but wonder if this is the right way to go. Otherwise I would need an expander die to open the resized cases to be close to allowing a bullet to be seated before outside trimming. Does this make sense?
I've been where you are when resizing down to .243. The inner diameter was much too small. I use a reamer, too. It's a great way to go. I'm surprised the .284 step stuck. Maybe my decapper rod is smoother from use or something. Good luck, man. Whatever works!
Do you re-size the entire case, or just the neck ? Thank you..
For this initial workup, it's a complete case resize, but afterward I usually just do a neck resize. I might be changing my procedure, though. Most of the guys I shoot with are doing full-length sizes each time to make loading and extracting easier.
I hear you, I too resize the entire case, and on occasion been questioned as to why. I feel the benefits out weigh the problems one can encounter loading and extracting, as you pointed out..
My experience when altering bras to another caliber is remove the inner sizing die, the football. Then trim the ID (not the OD) then run them thru the size again with the inner size (football) installed. Cutting the OD makes for fragile brass
I've done both; OD has been fine for me so far. I've just needed to make sure to cut slightly into the shoulder so I don't get a doughnut inside.
I like that simple Lee trimmer you use. Who sells those. I could probably modify a 5.56/223 to trim my 22 tcm. Always looking for simpler and quicker
You should be able to find them pretty much anywhere. Midway certainly sells them.
Would the thicker necks cause loading issues? Wondering if a guy needs to do that step, or if it is a personal preference.
I think it might be a necessary action when stepping down this far. The neck needs to have room to expand, and when I tried firing some rounds without reduction, there were signs of excessive pressure. Once I turned the necks the cartridge behaved appropriately.
I would very highly recommend it. The necks are just too thick for safe discharge. 7mm-08 seems to run at high pressures for me no matter what; if I can find some relief somewhere in the process, then I'll take it.
NADS IQ Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. It will be a useful piece of equipment, though, especially if you use ball-type neck sizer dies. If you need a decent budget-friendly turner, I use the Forster handheld neck turner. It's not as solid as a bench-mounted turner, but it works.
NADS IQ Right on. It would be awfully nice to skip that step. Let me know how it goes!
Are there any other cartridges that can be formed from the 308? Great vids btw! Very informative! I sub'd to watch your progress. Thanks!
+Scooterider1 Thanks for subscribing! I'm glad you're enjoying this series. Reshaping brass seems mystical at first, but with a few tools it's actually pretty easy. There are a bunch of excellent cartridges that use .308 as a parent case. .260 Remington is a direct competitor to 6.5 Creedmoor. .243 Winchester is just .308 necked down to 6mm. .338 Federal is necked UP for larger game. For the smaller necks, like 6.5mm and 6mm, you need to resize the neck twice. I've made .243 brass by necking down to 7mm first, then running down to .243.
+The Social Regressive that's awsome! Thanks man.
Was there any particular reasoning behind forming out of .308 as opposed to buying factory brass?
+Beavis6940 Great question! It was mostly a matter of cost. Once-fired .308 brass is cheap. The stuff you see in this video was actually free. I was at a 3-Gun Nation tournament a few months ago and the guys from Surgeon let me scrounge their brass. Winning!
@@SocialRegressive A follow up question, was it really worth the time and tedium to go through this process or am I just overestimating the amount of work? What's the ratio of money saved to time spent here?
love the 7-08
They don't last forever, incipient case head separation becomes an issue, with all the stretching of the brass due to repeated firing and resizing, the brass begins to thin near the case head and create a light colouration almost like a ring.
It's hyperbole.
Case head seperation is a not really an issue IF you properly setup your sizing die to push back the shoulder .001"- .002". I have annealed(every firing) and full length resized many manufacturer's brass (some as much as 16x)using this method and the first thing to go has always been the primer pocket loosening.
I'm a bit late, but a quick question, why do you use 308's and reduce them down to 7mm-08 instead of just reloading 7mm-08's? I thought the 7mm actually came from 308, so the base case is the same size either way right? It just comes from factory necked down. What am I missing?
Even Though i'm not turning my Savage Axis .350 Legend into a Comp. Rifle. I did enjoy the prep work.
Hi again! I'm here studying your hole channel, and I don't if here is the right place to ask but I need a little help then here I go.
I still didn't see in your channel you using a rollsizer but here everyone roll sizes 9mm brass before reloading process. They basically say that Dilon's dies do not cover all 9mm brass so causing malfunction when shoot (Dilon 750XL is the most popular realoding press here).
In your experience, is a rollsizer really necessary? I intend to buy a lee turret classic to start my reloads. First 9mm to learn, when I become good at, I'll start with .223 and .308s one. Thank you!
I don't use a rollsizer, and I've never had any issues reloading my own 9mm brass (or even decent-quality range brass). The rollsizer sounds like a great solution for folks that reload a LOT and want to make sure their brass is more concentric.
@@SocialRegressive How many times do you usually reload the same brass? My range's folks here reload at least 8 to 13 times the same 9mm brass. Ammo is too expensive here (about 80usd a box w/ 50 9mm), that's the reason people do so many reloads. Thank you again for so many lessons!
I've just discovered this series and am loving it! After considering differeing ammo options for some time, interestingly, I had narrowed down my choices to the same four you initially did in this series. Then, I narrowed those down further to two: the 7mm-08 and the .270 Win. These are both wonderful rounds, so I think your ultimately choice of the 7mm-08 is a great one! But here's a question: If you were going to go with factory ammo rather than handloaded, would you have chosen a different one of the four? And if so, which one? I ask because, although I do intend to do some handloading, I'd also really like to have the option of buying factory ammo in a pinch when necessary. (I'm currently leaning a bit toward the .270 Win but I'm still vascillating on that one.) Thanks so much for this clearly articulated and practical series!
In that case, I would lean toward 6.5 creedmoor or 308 win. The variety and quality of ammo for both is fantastic. 270 win has gotten a lot better, too, since we now have hunting bullets that can double as target rounds. Can't lose!
@@SocialRegressive I do already have a .308 Savage (not that that's a bad thing), so I was thinking of going with something different. There do seem to be more options in 6.5 CM than there were even a few years ago, so maybe I'll go with that one. Thanks!
I have a 17/223 wildcat chambered rifle that I need to create brass to reload with. I know I can buy a die set from Hornady for about $70. Would this process be necessary before necking down the brass?
As long as you anneal the brass and run it through a full-length sizer die from any manufacturer, you'll be in good shape. How fast do those .17 bullets go?
Thanks for the information!
According to Hodgdon information, I can expect 25gr. bullets to peak around 3990 FPS out of a 22" barrel. I have an H&R Ultra Wildcat that my dad got at a steal of a price from a guy who didn't want to do the work/research. It's got an 18" barrel, so I expect a 48FPS drop.
Once I anneal the brass, and resize it, then it will ready for fireforming, correct? After fireforming, does one run the brass through the full-length die again? I would imagine no, because it should be perfect for my chamber after that, is that correct?
Thank you for the previous response!
That should be the appropriate method. After it's fireformed, a neck sizer alone should do the job. What a fun project! Keep in touch. I'd like to hear how it turns out.
Thank you very much!!
What about donuts forming in the neck?
They're a distinct possibility. I try to make sure I cut far back enough to avoid them, and so far I've had good results.
A+ Awesome!
Great video. Couple things. I'm not big on removing lube in a tumbler. In my opinion it degrades the media. I may be being picky, or frankly completely wrong, but I like my media in the best condition I can keep it. While on the subject of lube, have you tried CH sizing wax. Granted there are a hundred different lubes out there if you count all the home-brew style lubes but I've had good luck with CH. Their inside neck lube is also good. www.ch4d.com/products/supplies CH also makes some stuck case extractors that if anyone is having issues they can pick up one of those while reexamining their lube situation. I also agree regarding the Hornady ELD. They seem to be very good. On your annealing video, I don't recall if you mentioned it or not but it helps to dim the lights when annealing. Keep up the good work on your videos I think there are quite a few people out there learning some good things.
I hadn't considered the degradation of my media. I'll bet you're right. And yeah; I had my lights pretty low when I was annealing. It helps a lot.
Chuck the brass in a cordless drill and the neck turner in a vice! 8-0
This is the only video I've seen properly areal brass then dunked in water..