The crimper you advertised in the description is a SN-28B. The one you are using in the video is a LY-2546B. THEY ARE TWO ENTIRELY DIFFERENT CRIMPERS!!!!
actually if you read the instructions that are included, and look at their webpage that is in the instructions, they show you that you hook the power switch to where it says "KEY" and your power feed wires to the main board are soldered to the + and - on the fan control board!
I have the same module, as well as other variations of boost and buck-boost converters designed by the same guy originally. Good job installing the input fuse. In my experience, it is the input power regulator ICs that are what usually blows first on these modules. I install a 10-15 amp automotive type circuit breaker on all mine, replacing the blade type fuse on the circuit board when possible. I know you may have a couple 18650s, why not wire up a 13 or 14S pack for the input? I run mine off 2 12v server power supplies in series (about $40 usd total), or my 7S 18650 pack. Will work until you get a bench supply :)
Hi friend thank you very much for your suppor for our products, I am the guy you said the same guy originally. for the fuse , you can't change it , it must be 20A, because it is suitable for our circuit ... you can't change it
i just bought myself this module and 5 server hp Powersupllies with 12v 20 amp each but you can change the current by adjusting the potetiometer inside you can actually pushthese supplies from hp really hard somebody was able to get 50amp output for 2 minutes. but you can actually also adjust the voltage from 11.5 to 13.6 or so above that the overvoltage protection shuts down the supplie. but i tested the supplies and was able to put all 5 o them in series to get a really stable 59v output. those 5 psus costed me about 35€ which was a really good deal because server psus are propritare and if the server gets replace the psus cant be used anymore so they get sold really cheap. just make sure that you isolate the DC side of the psus becuase if you isolate the ac side you make it dangerous to use because than the output is not referenced to anything and can float up to high levels compared to earth. the voltage will still be 60v compared to positiv and negative but compared to earth it can get dangerously high. dont isolate the first supply in series so that each other supply gets a refrence from the positiv from the last supply and so it will be safe to use and baaammm. 60v 32a powersupply its just a bit bigger than commercial all in one 60v supplies but alot cheaper
Perfect to charge my 10S8P e-skateboard. it'd be nice to see if work well under load though. I need 42V and the cells could pull easily over 8-10A to charge.
The problem with power supplies, is that they need a power supply! This PSU is pretty nice and would make a good charger you have a juicy 14S rack of cells. I'd like to find something a bit bigger than 1kW to charge my 14S ebike at 30-50A, but it could certainly be useful.
for DPS5020, It can charge the battery , it is not any problem , you can use it. 42v/10A, there is not problem the only problem is that you can't connect the battery polarity reversely... understand ? there is not protection
Awesome, man. I have a DPH3205, which is a buck boost converter, that I'm still going to build. But I'm going to put in a project box on my on. And I'm going to power it with a 24v 10a power supply. Everything in the same box. 😊
Rd Tech Hey there. 😊 Yeah, that's a good idea for a future project! 😀 This one I'm going to power with a regulated power supply that I already bought. It's 24v 10a. 😊 I already have almost everything and it's going to be my next project after the next one. I'm going to build a small drone first. 😊 BTW, I already did the unboxing of the DPH3205 a few time back. 😊
these are great units!!! I have 3 of them (DPS3012, DPS5005, DP30V5A) way overkill but still very useful (order mixup but I would have bought more anyway), only problem is their negative current sensing so no current regulation if two are common ground and common input PSU.
I've got the same model and bought a 50v 10a power supply but the screen stays white, I troubleshoot it with a 24v 2.5a power supply and it works but no luck with 50v 10a. Any ideas why it will not work?
Great test of it. Sorry for my english, I'm french. I bought 2 same models dps 5020 without box. I have not used them yet. I'm searching some solutions to eliminate noisy or ripplies on the outputs. But i see you do no mesures of that unlikely. May be after or a response of RD, he gives some moment good ideas. Bye from France
Question, do you can charge you "powerbanks" with this (litium) due tot the possibillties of constant current control. But ranging from 4.2 v to 58.8v depending on the possibillties of the input psu (volts and amps), so you could charge li-ion 18650's but leaf cell too? (To the 8.2 volts for 2 in series for one module of desired?)
At ~7:07 you talk about a lead that controlls the case fan. I searched google and didn't find any help with that. Could you please give me some more info about this (or a link)?
I am building a DSP5020 myself at the moment. Case fan is always on as soon as you turn on the device. The fan on the buck converter has a temperature sensor which turns the fan on when load is high
Michael Tschopp Michael Tschopp thanks for trying to help me! So, I'll send you my "business" mail address encrypted in base64 (it's a simple encoding method) when you'll tell me you're ready and then I'll delete the message when you'll tell me that you've gotten the adrress.
Just because they claim it does 1000watts doesn’t mean it does. It would have been interesting to see you test the power capability of the unit to see how it compares to the advertised specs.
Hello, this is a great tutorial and thank you for sharing. Can I ask a question please, I have just purchased the DPS3012 and I want to add an inline fuse! what rated fuse would be correct for this model? I have liked & subscribed. Thanks again.. John :)
Thanks for your quick reply, I will be using an old laptop charger for the input voltage ( About 19v ? ) As I am a complete beginner that has never used one of these devices I will not be using it to its full potential ( I wouldn't even know how ) Thanks again, John.. :)
Hi , are you there ? although it is good work and good video but there is wrong operation, it can lead to white screen . I saw your let the cable go through the capacitor, right ? it is wrong because when it works at high voltage and current , the capacitor will charge and discharge to affect cable to lead the screen white or chnage the color ... this is wrong operation. you can let the wire go through under PCB, it will be good you can try ,. hope you make right operation
Im not sure I get you? I have the communication cable on the side beside the capacitor and after have been using 3 of them here I have still not had any issue with them. The capacitors should generally not discharge much at all during normal operation
yes, you did not understand what I said I said the cable between display and power part , it should go through the power part ... , because the capacitor can generate the interference ... , now you understand ? if you have any quesstion, you can contact my email 1749808860@qq.com
Rd Tech did you say white screen? I think that occured to me once, when I tried powering on a ~200kv (I know it's a lot) voltage booster. I had powered that on other times, but one time that happened. (I turned off and on the module and the white screen was gone I think.) By the way, very nice module. Some days ago, I did a ~3hours electrolysis at ~47V@~0.5A. I think there's no damage from use at all even after that.
Lithium wont get killed as such no. In what scenario do you ask about how to stop charging? Most chargers I got will stop after x time or y current. My solar for instance cycles each day so during the night there is no charging so thats not a problem either.
Urs Odermatt just to know, my case fan was noisy as well. I opened the case and I found that a cable was touching it, making a noise. Now it's noisy almost at all.👍😂😂
I think this guy is doing it wrong. Look et EEVBlog's video. His module look different. It appear to be that little boards has a fuse on it and places to solder the cables for the switch ("key" label on the board). I think that is the reason why the cable was "too short". I prepared and wasted some parts because of this video.
Извиняюсь, такой вопрос: вот у этой китайской хреновины DPS5020, у неё реальный диапазон значений вольтажа какой? Я спрашиваю, поскольку очень много этих «китаек» на ебее, которые выдают минимум 1.7-0.7В и ниже не скручиваются ни в какую. Если вы собрали данный ахрехат, можно результаты теста из первых рук?
Alejandro Pérez what would you else power it with? It doesnt take ac so you need a psu in between of some kind :) yes mine was a variable psu but could have taken a transformer and some diodes too :) yes battery works as well
Please tell me where you got the fuse from. The ones I found are 16awg with max 16 amp.
Does it contain Short Circuit protection at the output?
The crimper you advertised in the description is a SN-28B. The one you are using in the video is a LY-2546B. THEY ARE TWO ENTIRELY DIFFERENT CRIMPERS!!!!
Ok?
actually if you read the instructions that are included, and look at their webpage that is in the instructions, they show you that you hook the power switch to where it says "KEY" and your power feed wires to the main board are soldered to the + and - on the fan control board!
To bad they added that info after i made this video :)
I have the same module, as well as other variations of boost and buck-boost converters designed by the same guy originally. Good job installing the input fuse. In my experience, it is the input power regulator ICs that are what usually blows first on these modules. I install a 10-15 amp automotive type circuit breaker on all mine, replacing the blade type fuse on the circuit board when possible.
I know you may have a couple 18650s, why not wire up a 13 or 14S pack for the input? I run mine off 2 12v server power supplies in series (about $40 usd total), or my 7S 18650 pack. Will work until you get a bench supply :)
Hi friend
thank you very much for your suppor for our products, I am the guy you said the same guy originally.
for the fuse , you can't change it , it must be 20A, because it is suitable for our circuit ... you can't change it
i just bought myself this module and 5 server hp Powersupllies with 12v 20 amp each but you can change the current by adjusting the potetiometer inside you can actually pushthese supplies from hp really hard somebody was able to get 50amp output for 2 minutes. but you can actually also adjust the voltage from 11.5 to 13.6 or so above that the overvoltage protection shuts down the supplie. but i tested the supplies and was able to put all 5 o them in series to get a really stable 59v output. those 5 psus costed me about 35€ which was a really good deal because server psus are propritare and if the server gets replace the psus cant be used anymore so they get sold really cheap.
just make sure that you isolate the DC side of the psus becuase if you isolate the ac side you make it dangerous to use because than the output is not referenced to anything and can float up to high levels compared to earth. the voltage will still be 60v compared to positiv and negative but compared to earth it can get dangerously high. dont isolate the first supply in series so that each other supply gets a refrence from the positiv from the last supply and so it will be safe to use and baaammm. 60v 32a powersupply its just a bit bigger than commercial all in one 60v supplies but alot cheaper
Bonjour, petite question sur le pouvoir du serveur. Quel est le modèle? HP DPS-800GBA? Je vous remercie
I can’t thank you enough for this video. The timing is Perfect. I like that this is one unit I can use for all my projects of any size.
I am glad you like our products , if you want know more about DPS power supply, you can check my channle
I am the designer ..
I actually had 2 inches of extra leftover wire by the time I was done by following the included manual...
Perfect to charge my 10S8P e-skateboard. it'd be nice to see if work well under load though. I need 42V and the cells could pull easily over 8-10A to charge.
The problem with power supplies, is that they need a power supply!
This PSU is pretty nice and would make a good charger you have a juicy 14S rack of cells.
I'd like to find something a bit bigger than 1kW to charge my 14S ebike at 30-50A, but it could certainly be useful.
I bet the DPS5020 would handle that just fine, my DPS3012 has never gotten too hot where it shut off (though it is in open air)
for DPS5020, It can charge the battery , it is not any problem , you can use it. 42v/10A, there is not problem
the only problem is that you can't connect the battery polarity reversely... understand ?
there is not protection
@SuperBrainAK
we use better plan to make it higher efficiency, so it not hot at ful load in the air, but in the box, you need strenth heat dissipation
If using it for only charging, wouldn't be hard to add protection yourself adding a few diodes? minus the voltage drop of course.
Ok. Just finished my power supply. I am very happy with it😀
Switch is only use for logic signal. You switch wiring is wrong. Check Banggood product page for more information.
Awesome, man. I have a DPH3205, which is a buck boost converter, that I'm still going to build. But I'm going to put in a project box on my on. And I'm going to power it with a 24v 10a power supply. Everything in the same box. 😊
you can chang a big box and add battery pack, you will build a portable power supply . it will be good
Rd Tech Hey there. 😊 Yeah, that's a good idea for a future project! 😀 This one I'm going to power with a regulated power supply that I already bought. It's 24v 10a. 😊 I already have almost everything and it's going to be my next project after the next one. I'm going to build a small drone first. 😊 BTW, I already did the unboxing of the DPH3205 a few time back. 😊
very good, friend
you can test
I don't have all these fancy components. How abrI just use a 40w Solar panel, on my Lithium battery cells to revive them?
@@jamesbondaygee no. You need to limit current and voltage.
these are great units!!! I have 3 of them (DPS3012, DPS5005, DP30V5A) way overkill but still very useful (order mixup but I would have bought more anyway), only problem is their negative current sensing so no current regulation if two are common ground and common input PSU.
thank you , hope you like it
I've got the same model and bought a 50v 10a power supply but the screen stays white, I troubleshoot it with a 24v 2.5a power supply and it works but no luck with 50v 10a. Any ideas why it will not work?
No idea. Check if the PSU work or not.
@@DIYTechRepairs thank you for replying! I've tested with multimeter and it's showing the rated voltage, its driving me crazy right now!
since it has ability to connect computer, is there any possiblity to mke data loging ?
Very good 👍
Great test of it. Sorry for my english, I'm french. I bought 2 same models dps 5020 without box. I have not used them yet. I'm searching some solutions to eliminate noisy or ripplies on the outputs. But i see you do no mesures of that unlikely. May be after or a response of RD, he gives some moment good ideas. Bye from France
what do you need a power supply for? i hooked it up on the 48v battery.
Question, do you can charge you "powerbanks" with this (litium) due tot the possibillties of constant current control. But ranging from 4.2 v to 58.8v depending on the possibillties of the input psu (volts and amps), so you could charge li-ion 18650's but leaf cell too? (To the 8.2 volts for 2 in series for one module of desired?)
Yes you can. Just beware of that above dont balance anything so if you charge cells in need of balance a balance charger is generally better.
you can charge the battery directly , you can set the right voltage and current ..
At ~7:07 you talk about a lead that controlls the case fan. I searched google and didn't find any help with that. Could you please give me some more info about this (or a link)?
I am building a DSP5020 myself at the moment. Case fan is always on as soon as you turn on the device. The fan on the buck converter has a temperature sensor which turns the fan on when load is high
Michael Tschopp so, isn't there any way that the case fan can be controlled like the one on the converter? (I also have a dps5020 module.)😂😂
George Vavouras Yes. There is an option. How can i send you a picture?
Michael Tschopp Michael Tschopp thanks for trying to help me! So, I'll send you my "business" mail address encrypted in base64 (it's a simple encoding method) when you'll tell me you're ready and then I'll delete the message when you'll tell me that you've gotten the adrress.
That is Awesome and thats exactly what I thought was to use it for fuse testing😆👍
you can buy one , hope you like it ..
Just because they claim it does 1000watts doesn’t mean it does. It would have been interesting to see you test the power capability of the unit to see how it compares to the advertised specs.
The 40x40x10mm fan is really noisy. I changed it to a 40x40x20mm 12v. Lower RPM with the 5V supply, but similar air flow. Much less noise now.
Hi can this go from 12v input 12v-14v input voltage to 48v?
11:37 You can get power directly from 48V 14s house battery!
It needs 60V in to operate properly, 48V is not enough, I tell you that because I only have a 48V PSU.
Hello, this is a great tutorial and thank you for sharing. Can I ask a question please, I have just purchased the DPS3012 and I want to add an inline fuse! what rated fuse would be correct for this model? I have liked & subscribed. Thanks again.. John :)
John Berry in THE ouput 30a and input depends in choosen input voltage. Just above max current
Thanks for your quick reply, I will be using an old laptop charger for the input voltage ( About 19v ? )
As I am a complete beginner that has never used one of these devices I will not be using it to its full potential ( I wouldn't even know how )
Thanks again, John.. :)
The dps5020 has a small ceramic fues of 20 amps between the Positive and Negative input.
Hi , are you there ? although it is good work and good video
but there is wrong operation, it can lead to white screen . I saw your let the cable go through the capacitor, right ? it is wrong
because when it works at high voltage and current , the capacitor will charge and discharge to affect cable to lead the screen white or chnage the color ...
this is wrong operation. you can let the wire go through under PCB, it will be good
you can try ,. hope you make right operation
Im not sure I get you? I have the communication cable on the side beside the capacitor and after have been using 3 of them here I have still not had any issue with them. The capacitors should generally not discharge much at all during normal operation
yes, you did not understand what I said
I said the cable between display and power part , it should go through the power part ... , because the capacitor can generate the interference ... , now you understand ?
if you have any quesstion, you can contact my email 1749808860@qq.com
Yeap I do. I have yet not seen any issues with my 3 units I have and they all work. But if I see any issues i know what it is. Thanks!
very good , I am waiting for your good news
Rd Tech did you say white screen? I think that occured to me once, when I tried powering on a ~200kv (I know it's a lot) voltage booster. I had powered that on other times, but one time that happened. (I turned off and on the module and the white screen was gone I think.) By the way, very nice module. Some days ago, I did a ~3hours electrolysis at ~47V@~0.5A. I think there's no damage from use at all even after that.
How do you stop charging when the amperage falls below a certain level automatically? Lithium will be killed with trickle charging.
Lithium wont get killed as such no. In what scenario do you ask about how to stop charging? Most chargers I got will stop after x time or y current. My solar for instance cycles each day so during the night there is no charging so thats not a problem either.
Hi, what is the name and spec of your 100w soldering iron? I just bought junk from eBay!
What 100W iron? i only have a 50W and a 200W.
Buy 888D, you'll thank yourself later..
Cool, i need to get a case for mine
in fact , the case is suitble communication version, there is hole on the back to install the USB board
so what did you do with the fan? it now turns on with the DPS5020's fan?
SuperBrainAK yeap on 5v so it was more quiet than i thought
the original noisy fan started to do that grindy noise. so i exchanged it with a 12v fan. this runs much quieter. not as efficient though.
Urs Odermatt just to know, my case fan was noisy as well. I opened the case and I found that a cable was touching it, making a noise. Now it's noisy almost at all.👍😂😂
I think this guy is doing it wrong. Look et EEVBlog's video. His module look different. It appear to be that little boards has a fuse on it and places to solder the cables for the switch ("key" label on the board). I think that is the reason why the cable was "too short". I prepared and wasted some parts because of this video.
Yeah its another type of board. It wasnt to short its just how i layed the cable out.
@Repairman Sure, but I can warn others. For beginners like me it is normal to follow such tutorial with partial understanding.
That switch will take 20 amps ? why not use an automotive relay ?
Why add a relay when you have a switch? The switch was included in the kit so i Guess it Will work
why did you link to random resellers on amazon and ebay? it is made by RuiDeng and they have official stores on aliexpress and banggood
SuperBrainAK bangod was linked based on the one giving the case to me. Ebay from 2 that i bought it
I’m in the US and amazon is faster most times and sometimes cheaper
Большое спасибо мужик!!! :)
Извиняюсь, такой вопрос: вот у этой китайской хреновины DPS5020, у неё реальный диапазон значений вольтажа какой? Я спрашиваю, поскольку очень много этих «китаек» на ебее, которые выдают минимум 1.7-0.7В и ниже не скручиваются ни в какую.
Если вы собрали данный ахрехат, можно результаты теста из первых рук?
Thanks for uploading, but it's a pity that you edited out all the detail of how you put it together.
I don't really need 50v but 20A dang
its a monster :)
DPS5015 on the screen.
Hej, har du betalt extra (toll)? Nice video!
ilia shishoski nu plockas allt med nya förfarandet från postnord
Powering a power supply with a power supply. Well, in that case this isn't a real power supply.
Alejandro Pérez what would you else power it with? It doesnt take ac so you need a psu in between of some kind :) yes mine was a variable psu but could have taken a transformer and some diodes too :) yes battery works as well
One more thing, where do I go for the Dps5020 app for my iPhone if I want to use blue tooth?