Jeep XJ 4.0 Liter Engine Oil Adapter Seal Replacement

A relatively technically simple repair to make, but for some reason is neglected, and misdiagnosis can cause owners to believe their rear main seal is blown (which it could be). An oil soaked starter and a filter covered in oil points to this little adapter.
Now I won't lie, I think I had it pretty easy. I've read horror stories of people trying to remove the adapter bolt from the engine; from broken wrenches, to banging with hammers, and even using come-alongs to break that fitting loose. I'll say that even I was a bit hesitant to do this because my Jeep is a daily driver. However, since it is down, waiting on parts for another repair, I figured I had some time, so why not get into this and get it done?!
In the video, I try to illustrate the process of doing the seal replacement in an attempt to alleviate fears from owners who are are bit nervous about tackling this job.
Tools I used are as follows:
1/2" Drive T-60 Torx socket (which I drove the bit out of the socket)
4# hammer
Punch that'll fit into the drive square of the torx socket
12mm offset ratcheting wrench
7/8" combination wrench (used as a cheater)
Vice
Wire Brush
I do not recommend using heat to coax the adapter bolt out. There are two rubber o-ring seals inside that could melt, and you'll make your life miserable if you try that. A little problem solving and muscle is what it'll take do tackle this job.
In the video, I start off by identifying the oil filter adapter, and then demonstrating how a T-60 torx socket does not fit between the adapter and the frame rail. I punch the torx bit out of the socket, and toss the socket part in the trash. Using the t-60 bit, I can get a 12mm wrench (your results may vary) on the end and attempt to apply torque in a vain attempt to loosen the bolt. I tried using a 3/4" wrench as a cheater with no luck. Switched to a 7/8" wrench to get some more length, and after applying some gorilla strength, I'm able to break the bolt loose. From there, the nipple comes out without much hassle. After removing the oil filter, I used some more gorilla hand force to get the adapter bolt out of the housing. Clean up the two pieces, and replace the seals. Clean up the engine block, where it will screw back on. Reinstall, taking care to make sure the alignment pin lines up with the casting relief in the adapter, tighten it within an inch of it's life. While not necessary, I used a small amount of red Loctite to a few threads, just to make sure the bolt doesn't vibrate and back out. If that loosens up, you lose your engine. So at the expense of making this job difficult to do again in the future, I am making sure it won't leak anytime soon. As this engine has 208K miles, and this is the first time this seal has been replaced, I'm confident the repair will outlast the engine.
Specs: 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ, 4.0 Liter.
Enjoy!