Jeep Cherokee - Rear Main Seal Replacement Procedure + Oil Pan Gasket ['87-'06 Jeep 4.0L]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2024
- Firstly, this is a very difficult and advanced task. If your only mechanical experience includes the front brakes and some sway bar links, I wouldn't recommend trying this on your own. It requires alot of precise movement in alot of tight places, where the consequences of failure are an engine rebuild. You need to lay under the engine with oil dripping all over your face. It is not comfortable, it is not fun, it is not easy and it is not over quickly.
This tutorial closely follows the Hayne's manual for the replacement procedure of the Rear Main Seal for the 1987-2001 Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Comanche. By extension, the 4.0 is hardly any different across other Jeep vehicles, so most of the information here also applies to 1987-2006 Jeep Wranglers (YJ + TJ), and 1993-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokees (ZJ + WJ).
Any time you remove the oil pan, you'll need to replace the gasket.
TOOLS:
-Socket set 8mm-19mm
-Deep Sockets: 13/16, ½, 7/16
-Various wrenches
-Torque wrench 7 - 75 ftlbs
-Extensions, swivel joint
-brass punch that closely matches this surface area of the RMS
-Jack and stands
-Cleaning Supplies
-The Spare Tire Jack
CONSUMABLES and PARTS:
-High Temperature Gasket Maker - Anaerobic: www.amazon.com/Permatex-51813...
-Rear Main Seal (1987-1999): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....
-Rear Main Seal (2000-2006): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....
-Oil Pan Support Bracket (1999-2006): www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...
-Oil Pan Gasket
-Dish soap
-Engine oil
00:00 - Video Starts
00:04 - Introduction
01:51 - Tools Required
04:01 - Oil Pan Removal Procedure
11:34 - Main Bearing Cap and Upper Seal
17:39 - Lower Seal 00-06
20:13 - Lower Seal 87-99
21:07 - Installation Procedure
26:10 - Don't Forget to add oil!
This video primarily shows a 2001 XJ, but also features a 1987 MJ.
Music: • 𝙱𝚒𝚑𝚕𝚎𝚛 - 𝙶𝚕𝚒𝚝𝚝𝚎𝚛
This was the first time I've used Chapters in a video, let me know if they can be improved or if they help at all. Thank you all for watching and I wish you the best on the project - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Nice video bro. Ive decided to just buy oil.
I don’t blame you there. I wish I still could but it’s dripping on the exhaust now and eventually after running long enough it leaks like a sieve onto the ground. I’ve got the parts now to do pretty much every leak while I live somewhere that I can take my time and not get some Karen staring over me threatening to call a tow truck.
@@wyattandwill12 yeah im so glad Im too poor to not have to deal hoa karens. Lol living in the country really is the shit. Good luck on those leaks. Mine aren't that bad just yet.
😅🤣😂
This is one of the very best how to videos I've ever watched and I've watched a lot of them. Also appreciate the humour. Absolutely great stuff - well done.
I got my friend into trouble with his apartment complex management after my 2000 Cherokee disgraced itself by pissing on a shiny new concrete parking pad. I researched the crap out of replacing the RMS, I must've read every article on every forum. This video was by for the most comprehensive, so it was my go-to resource. I followed your instructions to the letter, with the exception that I backed the Jeep up onto some 6" ramps so that I could get a little more room under the car after jacking up the front.
She's now leak-free. And by "leak free", I mean "not leaking like a beached supertanker". Many thanks for taking to time to make this movie: It was hard enough doing the job, I can't imagine going thorough all that and filming it too. Cheers!
Thanks fam, comments like these are what motivates me to keep making videos. My goal is to make actual tutorials, not tell everyone about how I ran into my ex at the grocery store and other unrelated problems that in no way pertain to the task at hand. I'm glad to hear my video has directly helped someone!
Best video I found for replacing the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Just finished the job and no leaks so far. Using the car jack to push the axle out of the way of the oil pan was extremely helpful.
March 2022 Rear Main Seal Replacement. I have a 2001 Stock Jeep Cherokee 2 dr Sport 4.0. I too spent outraegous time under the Jeep. I also have the Chrysler Jeep Service Manual. No way was I going to go through the steps in the Manual to remove the oil pan. Glad I found your TH-cam. With Wheels off I removed both front Shocks, the Starter, Steering Dampner, Track Bar from Pass Side, and Sway bar. Then I used a old Scissor Jack with a 4x4 piece of wood (on top of jack) on the Passenger side axle and lowered the axle enough to get the oil pan out. I wish I'd found this TH-cam 3 days prior. Thanks for posting it.
Absolutely, thanks for watching!
just came across your video - great advise to work with the spare tire jack to lower the front axle - this will be saving hours of my life.
I will watch this video 10 more times then get to work on my jeep. Rear seal leaking and ruined my starter. Thanks for the video.
I appreciate your honesty. Informative AND entertaining.
I’ve done this on my 01 Cherokee. And you can drop the oil pan without dropping the axle. You can turn the wheels the furthest to the passenger side. And you can just barely wiggle it out of there.
Great video ! I happened to watch another "how to replace rms" prior to this one and yours is much, much, better. I'll have to go back and look but I think the axle was missing on the previous upload I watched since there was virtually no mention of clearance issues in removing the pan and it seemed too easy to me. I have not done this job but I'm looking at a '91, 120,000 mile XJ tomorrow and I want to be familiar with how to perform some of these maintenance items before making a purchase. I've done enough wrenching on cars, trucks, and motorcycles to recognize great "how to" videos and I commend you on your mechanical as well as recording skills ! I would never have the patience to record while contorted under the vehicle with grimy, gritty hands, especially in confined areas and you having a subtle, dry sense of humor is the bonus. You had me laughing a time or two to where I had to stop and go back because I missed something due to laughter ! Also, thank you, thank you, thank you, for laying off the 15 minute long intros with sound affects, dancing monkeys, overdubbed with obnoxious music, interspersed with the "heartwarming" scenes of puppies, kittens, kids, and all the other crap some content creators want to torment their viewers with... I'm now subscribed !
Top tier video!!! Doing a engine and transmission swap for the 1st time in my friends 99 XJ and was searching videos last week then this pops up on my recommended page today! Funny and very informative! Love it!
Outstanding video between the older and newer seals and their differences. I was going to just do an oil pan but now I am going to do rear main as well. Thank you for a quality video.
Great video and liked the way you showed how to remove the axle. Enjoyed some comical moments as well - made it fun. Appreciate your efforts for doing this!
This is the best video I've seen on this topic. I owe you one!
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Edit: Also, the tip on using a socket and extension with the punch made getting the upper half of the rear main seal MUCH easier. 👍
Chock full of great and vital information I like how you explain certain little tasks in detail, great filming I would have also looked at a couple of other bearings while in that far. I think I might be doing this on my 04 WJ in the near future my oil pressure is doing weird stuff after replacing head and water pump at 176,000. Thanks again for sharing. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida.
Great vid. Unfortunately I had already dropped the exhaust. This video is so helpful. Great camera work, thanks for sharing.
Just bought a Jeep with the same problem, this helped tremendously
Thank your for 10.35 oil pan hack. I use wooden dowels to avoid scratching. Gasket remover is helpful. If you have a full weekend consider bushings and suspension components. Cause as long as it's mostly apart, and the weather is good, be done with it. Very well presented. For hair shirt wearing flagellants, paint the pan a lighter to telegraph any drips.
2 of your video have helped me so far. Thank you and great job on the videos
Put my rms in backwards a couple months ago. Fixed it last weekend but i tore the OP gasket, Finishing today... mine is a little easier to get to but one thing im changing this time is I'm putting the op gasket on the motor first and lifting just the pan in place. I think it will be a little smoother. My oil pan support bracket has no rubber left on it, so half is good! I appreciate the video.
Great video! Your description of the difficulty and misery of this job, and the precise moments of most discomfort and strain is perfect. The spare tyre jack tip literally saved me having to take the front axle off. The oil pan/gasket are going back on today and the rear main seal is in... Thanks a million (well, $2!) from a UK Cherokee owner.
£! That's amazing! Thank you
I'm glad I could help
Wow another excellent video couldn't ask for more its all here thanks my brother your channel/catalog is perfect for me 👍
You're the man, excellent vid!
Just watched your video. I've worked on big trucks and equipment for years. Very concise. TIP: Vaseline. Works great for sliding anything like that.
Thank you so much! made the job so much easier
I did this 3-4 years ago. I would have loved this video back then telling me what to do. I had the same experience with “the oil pan will definitely clear the axle” I thought I was going insane with how many people told me that and it wasn’t even remotely true.
Also there definitely isn’t a slight nic in my crankshaft because someone didn’t use a copper punch. Nope it’s as smooth as can be 😅
Awesome video! Great humor in your commentary!
You’re a great instructor!!
Amazing video and details!!!
awesome !!! my 96 XJ is gonna need this work I'm afraid...greetings from Europe
Wow. This deserves an emmy or something. Thanks!
I was wanting to see somebody do this on a stock height setup 👍 i did my brother’s after a 3” lift and it was easy but mine is still stock height and I’m about to do this job. Thanks!
i did it on stock height. jack the transfer case up a bit and you’ll have enough clearance
The oil pan does come out pretty easily on zj coils. Did not disconnect any steering or axle component. I randomly picked passenger side to lift no difficulty at all. Have to rotate it a little bit and pivot it out. Didnt remove starter either. But dont have exhaust connected at the flange either. Have 0-3 inch lift shocks. The limiting factor seems to be lower control arm bottoming out on shock mount plate more than anything
I was doing the same job in a gran cherokee 2002 i made this three times and always has a leak in the back of neck but last time i wachted some pores in surfac3 where the seal work i think that is the main trouble but even though your video helpme a lot thank bro
The alignment dowels will actually hold the gasket by itself so what I found easier to do was just throw it on and leave it there before sliding the pan back into place
Nice job. Spare tire jack isn't what I was expecting. I just disconnect the shocks and the axle drops lower.
Hola, muy buen video en detalle.
Excelente saludos 🇨🇱
Really appreciate your video it was by far the best video out there on the replacement of the RMS This is something I’ve got to do on my 97 and was not looking forward to it.
Excellent video. I seem to remember a mechanic saying they need to drop the transmission - probably what "the book" says.
This mechanic might simply not know about 2 piece seals, or he may have been trying to scam you into paying 7+ more hours of labor. To be fair, Replacing the Rear Main Seal is a bit easier without the transmission in the way, but the effort and time it takes to get the transmission out is not worth just changing the RMS
That is a remarkable training vidio........thank you more than i can say
This video is great. Thank you.
No, thank you ✅
good job Bro - Good Luck with X - been there and no fun but gets better
Great "how-to" video and I dig your humor. 😆
all I can say is WOW MAN you ROCK!!!!!
Very well done.
Thanks man saved some money
Thank you!
One thing i can add from doing this job on engines with similar type seals tap it in with the punch like you did then put a rubbber tipped blow gun on the side thats going in and blow while you pull on other side will come right out
At 9:28 in this video yes there is a way to slip that pan out, remove the trans mount bolt and jack the trans up it than will clear the bell housing and the pan will come out rearward under the bell housing . As a mechanic of 35+ years on many cherokee's this method has worked with a lot less disassembling.
That is an excellent idea, but I might argue disconnecting the transmission mount and lifting it up (presumably with a transmission jack) is more work than shoving the bottle jack on top of the axle. Just my take though, everyone has their way of doing things
Excellent tutorial there snippy!!
Thank you
great video with some funny comments! Thanks!
Tip regarding the dent behind the lip he had. You can cut a piece of wood to fit in there and then hit it with a hammer while the pan is on another block of wood and the dent will pount out. I used a 2x4 and 2x12 that was laying around.
If you remove the oil pump pickup tube you can remove the pan on stock height jeep xj. Loosening two main caps will not give you any additional clearance and suggests the crank flexes? it does not, but loosening all main caps will allow the crank to drop ever so slightly and allow the old upper seal half removal and new half to be installed much easier. I could not remove the old or install the new upper half without loosening all mains.
I didn’t push it flush. I left it out about an eighth inch or more and mated the bottom half end to end but off set. It seems to work better.
This only works on the seals without the tabs. Offsetting creates a couple extra 'bends' oil would need to work its way through.
Good
WARNING if you have the 2 bank exhaust that wraps around the FRONT of your oil pan you will have WAY more work than seen here. You'll need to unscrew 4 15mm bolts before the cats that are near impossible to reach. That or cut the exhaust behind the 02 sensors. Either than that best video on yt for this. Seriously takie it to a mechanic fml
I assume you have a later model TJ, yeah in that case the exhaust definitely has to come out. I made this video for XJs, but I guess TH-cam decided to send all the Wrangler and Grand Cherokee guys too
@@WAEMIDIV yep an 04 LJ. When all the tj videos already have the transmission out or cut the important parts gotta watch the xj vids
@LJshots well sweet, I'm glad I could help, but also kinda disappointed in the TJ youtubers who can't make good videos
That’s a great idea with the socket and chisel
18:03 Its not the end of the world but I would have plastiguaged the journal and replaced the bearing with the appropriate size. Always a a good idea to inspect the rear most bearing when doing this anyway, It is the most staved for oil.
Yeah let me just take out the Fing axle real quick!" Exactly 🤣
I've seen other videos where they say to just take the entire front axle off, not sure if that would be easier yet.
I was having issues where the transmission side wouldn’t drop down very far. After jacking the car up higher when putting a board under my jack stands instead of letting them sink into the dirt, I realized that the inspection cover was bent and it was keeping the pan from falling. That sucks since I lost easily 2-3 hours but hopefully the rain tomorrow won’t get everything too wet.
Doing it in the rain sounds terrible. I commend you
Lolol best vid ever
😂 One of the best and the EX comment hand me in tears.
Oh there's plenty more where that came from! Maybe I'll make a compilation someday
Thank you very much for posting this. After all of this would there be less time spent removing the engine and working it outside on an engine stand?
To remove the engine you have to unbolt the transmission among a ton of other things, I wouldn't remove the entire engine just to replace the RMS unless you also need to remove it for other reasons
@@WAEMIDIV Okay. Thanks for your quick reply!
Use hardwood dowel (oak) to push seal.
XD dude, you're hilarious. great vids man \m/
hello brethren
"Much as a mess after my ex started hopping homies" 🤣🤣😭 top tier mechanic comedian
9:30 Ive done it by unbolting the oil pump.
Another suggestion disconnect the trackbar and you’ll get the axle to drop easier and a little farther
When installing the new upper portion of the rear main seal would it help if someone was rotating the crankshaft while the other person was pushing the seal in with their fingers? If I were using this technique I would first wipe down the crank surface with isopropyl alcohol and leave the internal surface of the replacement seal dry (but would put soap on the outside of the seal). The dry crank against the dry inner surface of the seal would provide enough friction to help the seal slide into place. When installing the lower portion of the rear main seal I would liberally coat both the crank surface and the inner portion of the seal with oil under the assumption that this would move sufficient oil to the inner surface of the upper portion of the rear main seal.
Any thoughts or comments? I have not tried this yet, but anticipate doing this job within the next 6 months.
As long as your top seal is lubed well enough with soap and oil you won't have a problem sliding it around the crank. The crankshaft is so smooth it hardly gives any resistance, the difficult part comes from the top half of the top half.
Make sure you use the provided paper thing because I actually did this job on a different Jeep about a month ago and ripped the seal, and had to go get a new one from the parts store.
Start a Patreon……..or just keep making videos. Regardless make it easy for ppl to support these amazing videos!
I've thought about a patreon but I don't think my channel is big enough to warrant one. Maybe someday in the future when I am better equipped
I feel like a patreon is a sort of contract that garuntees I'll make new videos but right now I'm not sure if I can keep that up on a consistent schedule, so I'd hate to have someone spending money on content I can't ensure will even be made
These inspirational comments are what motivates me, not money. I thank you for the kind words
Excellent how to video. Is it pretty much the same essential procedure for an 89 yj 4.2?
I have no idea, I've never even seen a 4.2L up close before, but considering you can use a lot of their parts on a 4.0L, I'd assume the rear main seal is very similar
@@WAEMIDIV thanks!
When assembling, wouldn’t it be best to slightly rotate the rear main seal so the seals DONT align with the main cap and engine block split? Curious on your opinion on that. Obviously this isn’t an option on the older style RMS. Thank you.
Yes I've heard of people doing this, I didn't want to just for time's sake and explaining another new thing in an already long video. But it works and you totally can do it if you want
What that green belt?
Does the rear main seal oil additive they sell everywhere help at all? I just need to buy myself some time before I can get around to fixing this.
honestly I wouldn't use that stuff. It'll most likely patch your rear main seal, but it'll also patch up essential oil passages elsewhere in the engine. I would just keep a drain pan under it and make sure it stays topped off
Mine came out on my 2000 stock height 🤷🏻♂️ I was ready to use the bottle jack like you said but it came out with out jacking the axle down.
well, all I have to say to that is
Bruh
maybe it has something to do with suspension components being at different levels of wear, or the engine mounts
how's your front suspension? Is it old and worn, or mostly new? Also how's the engine mounts? I am curious, you're the first person to confirm victory on this
@@WAEMIDIV Well for starters I need to say that it was in an accident before I bought it and the axle had hit the oil pan and dented it. It’s not a lot but it could be just enough to where it allowed it to come out. It only has 142,000 on it and the elderly gentleman I bought it from was very meticulous on his maintenance. Nothing sags and everything seems to be super tight in the front end.
@@WAEMIDIV everything has been repaired, it is not still damaged or anything. But I am assuming that is why my oil pan leaks and I am doing this job anyways lol we will find out when the new oil pan goes in. Right now I do not have a punch set and cannot get half of the rear main out from around the crank regardless that I have undone two more main caps.
@@acokedupmonkey3762 If the axle was pushed into the oil pan that sounds like the control arms or their mounts might have been compromised in a way that might allow the axle to hang lower on its own. That and the dent, depending where, could do it
on mine as you saw, although it was certainly stuck, was not *that* far from coming out, so maybe small irregularities like this might be enough. Interesting indeed, I appreciate you explaining the situation 👍
@@WAEMIDIV that is a good possibility, I just hope it goes in the same way it came out. From the looks of it, all the front end components were replaced after the accident and re-straightening of the unibody.
I tried using a pick set and a small screwdriver to knock the upper piece of the rear main seal out but it wasn’t budging. I’m hoping the punch I get from work tomorrow will be the right diameter to stay on the thick part of the gasket, I really do not want to unbolt more than two extra Main caps.
Can you see your gasket from the side when your done installing it?
Yes, in some places it might be visible as it is pretty thick
How do you remove the transmission inspection cover? I have a 99 with a manual trans and I don't see how it's done.
I don't think I knew at the time, but it can't come off the manual ones. You'd need to remove the entire transmission to get that cover off. However, removing the cover is entirely unnecessary, it just gives you like 1/2" more room
Did you wait for the rtv to setup at all before installing the gasket and oil pan? And did you add rtv to both the oil and gasket?
Somewhat yes, because it was such a pain to get the pan up in there I knew by the time I did it the RTV would be pretty much ready to go. I put it on both sides of the gasket
I have had the rear half moon gasket slip out three times on me so far. This weekend will be the fourth time I’ve done this job. I even let the rtv setup until the gasket was holding onto the block. And made sure to press the gasket into the rear main cap channel that coincides with the gasket with rtv. Still slipped out.
Did you put the oil pan strap back on that cradles the oil pan at the rear main cap?
@@Deadleg1-502 Yes even though mine is broken I put it back on
@@WAEMIDIV thank you. I’ll get the strap back on today and if it’s still leaking afterwards, I’ll yet again do another gasket. Lol.
If you get a small syringe with some dawn dishwashing soap in it, squirt in the channel and it will slide right in
Absolutely outstanding! Love the close camera angles. And covering the BA tranny which is what I have. Thanks.
26:20 Money light shining bright
Wait how do you install the tabbed rms into the halve that doesnt come out?
Only the lower half has a tab (87-99), the upper half will always be a half circle without tabs
@WAEMID IV ahh yeah I just noticed that looking at the gasket sets thanks man
1999 Jeep Cherokee Classic with oil drips. Why did Jeep make it so difficult to replace oil pan gasket & RMS? I’m not a mechanic so $$$. Thanks
the 4.0 was never designed to go into the xj but was put in there anyways causing space issues
Curious why u didn’t offset the seal. Felpro recommends that on their website but not on the package the seal comes in for some reason. Found that out by reading comments on other similar videos. Anyways how’s it holding up?
It never leaked, so it worked. I've seen it done both ways and either way works
@@WAEMIDIV thx for fast reply. Good to know. I have an 01 jeep tj and all the vids I watched they just have to remove the exhaust to get the oil pan out. Gonna try n tackle that next month maybe. Just got her and don’t know the history as the previous owner died n she sat for a few yrs. Had the frame repaired professionally n I replaced the whole suspension myself. All original. That was fun
@@pujo28 The TJ might be a little different when it comes to which things need to be removed and what will fit where, I've never done this on a TJ so some things in the video might not be exact
Hey man, are you able to confirm something? I’m swapping in some new connecting rod bearings and 12 came in the pack and I’m not sure if that included the rear main bearing with the gasket, I hope that makes sense, do I need a another pair ?
That's a bit beyond my scope of mechanical understanding I'm afraid. I don't know much more than the very basics of engine rebuilding, I would try to find someone who does know for sure.
No worries man, thanks for replying. I actually just wrapped it up. RMS, pump and pan but I did not use a gasket. Could not get the rear main portion to line up so I just coated both surfaces in permetex avaiation gasket maker. Going to add the oil Tom after it cures.
thats where im at right now. my bolts where real easy to get to but i cant get the pan out. i have a 96 xj and i cant figure it out going to have to pay someone to do the job.
If you want to try risking it, you can use a scraper and a Mallet like I did in the video. Just be as careful as possible, and if you do end up scratching the block, just use some extra RTV in that area
@@WAEMIDIV the pan is off but cant get it out.
@@hayzersolar You could try removing the crossmember and raising the transmission upwards to get a little bit more room
@@WAEMIDIV with that I might break off the bolts inside the frame don't want to chance it.im going to loosen front suspension to get it out I 🤔
Make life Easy change the oil every TWO to THREE Thousand miles with a GOOD quality oil AND think of it as an oil leek in the long run one can go years with out oil leeks by just changing oil more often the killer for oil is age and combustion byproducts
this shit is top notch :)))
is this the same for a 1994 YJ?
It'll be the same general process yes, but I've never done this on a YJ so there might be some YJ-specific things I'm not aware of
Homie hoppin😂
thank you, thank you
I'm not alone
(well actually I am but yeah)
Why did your rms go bad so quickly?
skill issue
first time I put one in, I didn't use anaerobic gasket maker, and the gasket melted
The ex-wife comments were the best part!
The bots are communicating
You forgot the bourbon for the Mountain Dew.
too bad that new baja blast didn't exist when I made this
so they fail every 60k miles?
yep
I'm on my 3rd RMS in 3 months, these things are fucked. if it leaks this time I am taking it to the mechanic.
Oil can end up in the same spot on the bellhousing if it's leaking from the oil filter adapter as well, make sure to check that. The starter would also have oil on it
@@WAEMIDIV when I pulled this latest one off, I could see in the back side of the seal it was wet with oil so more than likely RMS.