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Saving this one!

This video was helpful, however, the only thing that wasn’t “correct” in my repair was that the T60 was not correct. I am gonna assume that someone replaced my OE version with a replacement as I actually needed a 5/8” Hex Head to do the job. I ended up using a Hex-Head-Sockey and removed the hex rather easily. I was also able to replace it with minimal difficulties. The actual “repair” portion of the video was spot on correct. Thanks for the help. This fixed my oil leak.

It always best to work on a hot engine. Bolt doesn't expand as fast as the engine, So the bolt just unbolts a lot easier. That is how I got mine lose after breaking 3 12mm wrench.

More videos from this guy wouldn't hurt anyone

Do not torque to 158 ft lbs!!! That’s too too much, I’ve stripped the hell out of the car body. Hate this guy.

To prevent premature failure of the control arm bushings the arm needs to be at ride height before being torqued down.

Red Loctite, so that the next guy has no chance in hell of removing it.

I can’t get the bolt that holds the ball joint in out. I used my big brushless impact and it doesn’t want to come off

I don't know if I would have used the red locktite if I were you..probably the blue.

WOW! i finally watched a video that was complete, start to finish and easy to follow! thank you very much!

Great video with some helpful pointers. Thank you. If anyone cares, I usually tighten that bolt to between two and three ugga duggas :)

Do NOT torque the lower control arm bolts to 158ft/lbs or you will break the cage nut, I broke both of mine, just do 100

How did you get that T-60 bit out it's holder, that's the problem I'm having, can't even start on it cause I don't have enough room

Awesome video did you ever replace shocks or struts before this mileage point I'm at one76,000And about to do new discs pads struts and sway bar links and bushings in the front this is without any inspection it has a clunk and fairly loose suspension but really not too bad

So I bought ball joints thinking the ball joint it self was making the noise. Is there any way I can buy the control arm without the ball join already assembled?

Where can I buy a lower control arm without the ball joint? Since I already have new ball joints

What is the name of the rod that had the black cover?

Very Good video, Short and Detailed. APPRECIATE. Good work.

I did this repair and between 2 people the rear retaining bolt reinstall took close to 4 hrs to install. This video is a great guide but be aware there can be issues that are unforeseen when doing car repairs. In my case the housing that retained the rear portion of the control arm was under great tension. The tension would not allow me to enter the bolt at 90 degrees. Through some sweat and curse words i was able to bang it into place. Always have a back up plan in place aka a tow truck rental and a knowledgeable mechanic as a back up if you run into trouble. I followed this video to the letter and it was a great help.

what I did for the retainers on the subframe bolts, I took a paint marker and made a small mark at the same spot on each retainer and the subframe, used different colors, but now I knew the orientation for reinstall. Great video.

do you think it would be a good idea after all the bolts are in, not torqued down yet, but to put a jack under the control arm and lift it until the vehicle is barely off the jackstand and then do the final torque?

Made doing this for my mother-in-law a LOT more affordable. Thanks for the info!

Great vid! Right to the point and good details!

How long should this take a mechanic to do?

I found the 3 o rings you mentioned but two more also came out where do they go? theu look like the one at the base of the thread and the one is like the one slightly higher up.

Best DIY video I’ve ever seen. Couldn’t have been done any better. Congratulations to whoever made this!

Damn, I can't do any of this work on my jeep xj. The L is facing upwards of all places, I'd either have to take my steering slightly apart to get it from under the jeep, or pull the engine. What the hell.

Compared to mine. You didnt have a leak. You have a leak when the amount of oil dripping on the starter causes the starter to go bad. That's a leak.

I've been fighting with this thing every oil change for 4 years and finally got it off the other day. I ended up using a torx bit from a socket and a ratcheting wrench, and my jack handle for leverage. Came off super easy.

Where did you get your handy book

The end of the video around like 13:30 and on you sounded exactly like Ricky from trailer park boys. Right on buddy.

I cant see mine is it possible the 04 jeep grand cherokee limited edition does not have one? 4.0 in line six

biggest pain was getting the T60 bolt loose....your info on starting the T60 bolt, on replacement....spot on!!!

I welded the T60 into an old wrench. Then I did it from the bottom, where there is more room to work. The T60 worked on my 98. My 94 was a 14mm allen. At some point they changed it. Just saying. Now I have to do my 99 that I just got. The seller thought it was the rear main, the way the oil blows back around the oil pan when you drive.

Well done video. Best I've seen for this job on this car. Loved the little tips about aligning bolts with pin punch and pry bar. Also the recommendation to replace the whole control arm rather than mess with the bushing and a ball joint sometime later. (Which has to have the rivets drilled out and replaced by bolts).

Great video, thanks for the step by step. The only detail I found was that all the hardware on my car was standard sizes. For anyone watching just check the bolts sizes mine were definitely not metric, so use standard if needed to keep the bolts from getting damaged. Thanks again for this video.

Such a well done, clearly explained video.

Is that just a roll pin that stays in the block. My original 4.0 had it and my reman doesn’t. Any insight would be greatly appreciated

Finally, a video that has good video, audio, and how to! Thanks bro!

what book is that ?

that's a Snap-on commercial ..I'm impressed

That poor gear wrench. Git r dun I guess

Thank you, helpful video as I have to do this on my TJ Wrangler.

Might be my leak....looks fun.

Nice video.

158 ft. pounds! Wow!! I Did it!!!

This method worked perfect for me. So nice to not have that leaking right on my starter, etc

For anyone doing this repair (same reason im here) and general jeep stuff... always have weird hard to reach torx bits www.amazon.com/Z-Red-T1000-Automotive-Motorcycles/dp/B00C7K31ZM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=t60+stubby&qid=1582262280&s=hi&sr=1-4

I need my mechanic to do this. It does seem to be a time consuming job, but a bummer to get underneath and get the bolts loose

*Thank you* for the clear and correct voice-over. It's excruciating to sit and listen to the "ums" and "uhs" and "This is different on my other car" that some people unwittingly put in.