Sawmill Shed Walkthrough and Construction Photo Slideshow
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ส.ค. 2024
- Here's a walkthrough and discussion of my saw shed, followed by some construction photos. Post your questions in the comments and I'll try to answer them. Thanks for watching!
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Nicely done. An additional requirement I have is to install a center wooden beam over the sawmill on witch I will fix a steel H beam that will be used as an overhead crane with 2 chain blocks on rollers. My woodlot is mostly mature hard maple and other hard woods with logs of 20, 25 and 30 inch in diameter. They are way too heavy to be handled manually and rotated with a cant-hook. I am also planning to extend the overhead crane over the log pile located just after the sawmill such that I can bring the logs in with the overhead crane, removing the need to use the tractor. It is an interesting design challenge as I also need to be able to build it alone. Thank you for sharing your experience, it certainly helped me in my thought process and helps me to muster the courage to start building mine. 🙂 -- Also enjoyed your other video on beam sizing. Quite helpful.
Very nice structure! I’m receiving my saw mill next week and you just inspired me to mill/build a home for it as well! Just subscribed
Awesome sawmill shed man!👊 Been wanting to build one of these for my sawmill. Thanks for making this video!
Thanks for sharing. I think another video showing/explaining the base for the mill itself would be a good add to your sawmill series. Thanks again for your time.
Excellent shed and more than excellent explanation of the design!! I think it needs a back wall. Even if the wind was blowing into the front it would be diminished because it can't go through.
Art from Ohio
Well, that is the side that the mill sprays sawdust on, and it's a *LOT* of sawdust, so it's good to leave that side open. Some people use a diverter and bucket but for the volume of sawing I do, it doesn't make sense. You could certainly close in the front though. The other issue to worry about is exhaust fumes and airflow. I visited someone that put their mill inside a closed barn, and it was a real problem. They really needed an exhaust fan and makeup air.
Looks great! With the price of lumber today, your mill is well on its way toward paying itself off!
From one sawyer to another..... Nice job, it looks great!!!! I love making lumber and I love building with it!!! LOL! Making dust is Man glitter!
Enjoyed this, learned good stuff. Recently I severed my right hand wrist flexor tendons and nerve stuff trying to catch a roof metal that was falling off during an install. Wear gloves with cuffs , tig welding gloves and a fire hose jacket or carhartt to protect your neck. Please be careful with metal roofing. I have done multiple metal roofs and dont get careless. Not having wrist flexors sucks. Since my accident I've heard multiple stories that has turned my stomach. I'm grateful my injury was not worse. Treat metal roofing like razor blades.
Really enjoyed the video. I am about to get started on my own shed. I picked up several ideas.
Recently found your channel and I've watched 8-10 videos now. Excellent content and commentary. Subscribed!
Would love to have a bunch of pine like you have. Very nice build.
That is beautiful. Just found your channel this morning and glad I did. This is exactly what I want
You done a real good job. Thank you for sharing.
Great job on that shed. That sled base is awesome. That was the first thing that caught my eye on the first video of yours that I watched. Again, you did a great job on the shed and thanks for for sharing. John.
Nice building and it looks very functional. Thanks for sharing.
Great looking sawmill building!
Brilliant my friend. Your shed looks wonderful.
Beautiful Job ! Two thumbs up !!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing!
Love Love Love the structure/building. The only thing I would have done differently would be I would have made it longer. I like a lot of space plus if you ever get a new longer model or simply want to put an extender on it, you would have the room.
Looks sharp! Great design
Great build and and great video. It’s given me some very good info for sure on designing a cover for my track. I’m going to have to go with at least a 6/12 or more on my pitch for our snow load in my neck of the woods. We can’t put gutters on anything up here as they would get ripped off of the building first big snow. Liked, commented, and Subscribed👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This is awesome! Would love to try something like this one day!
Great setup. Starting the lay out for my mill shed and you gave me some good ideas. New to your channel. we love all things milling. My mill is arriving in two weeks. I have to get the base for it ready and built. Thanks. Tony & Joanie @ Creekside Maples Homestead
Well built, and very aesthetic!!
Thanks for sharing and advising, god bless
It looks great I am looking forward to seeing you do some more milling
Very good presentation. I am in the process of putting a building over my saw mill got some good ideas from you.
You did a great job!
Nice! Need to build one similar. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome shelter...getting a saw in a couple of weeks and plan to do something similar
Very nice shed, and video....ya did good !!!!!!!!
awesome job. Congrats
That looks awesome.
Nice setup. I will be putting one up next spring
Great ! I just requested this video on one of your other vids.. lmao. Guess I coulda done a little digging, eh? Gotta 150 acres in Eastern KY... Time to start building! Appreciate the vid!
Found your channel last night. Great content!
I just found it also ! Todd
Beautiful..!
Very nice set up sir.
Nice channel and vids, looking forward to watching the others. If you flowed your gutter into a rain barrel with a spigot, you’d have a constant source of water for the tank on your mill. Looks like a woodland mills? I get my HM126 here any day now and can’t wait. Probably do something very similar to what you did for the sawmill shed, it looks great.
I like the look of the siding
I'm about to start preparing to build my first structure from my woodlands mill and plan to build something very similar to this. Very nicely done.
Thanks for the great video showing some of the details.
Nice job looks sweet
Love it!
Extremely nice cover ")
I lived in a 50 psf snow load area, steel beam is the cheapest way to go. Am impressed with your design, you evidentially are a professional.
Heck, steel may have been best for me too -- normally I have access to leftover I-beams or can find something at a scrap yard, but this time around, no luck finding one long enough when I needed it.
@@Lumber_Jack A new WF beam would have been cheaper than a LVL.
Great looking sawmill shack you've constructed there. As for your gutters and the pine trees, I would suggest installing some gutter screens over them to keep the bulk of the leaves and pine needles out of the gutters. It will save you from having to clean them out. Do you plan on building a log deck on the front side of your sawmill shack to store several logs at once and make it easier to roll the logs onto the mill?
Very nice looks to me you can mill 16 foot logs, love you work.
thx, very good job!!
you can also truss your opening. i think it is called a scissors truss or x truss. It both supports and hangs . You can also cut the span with your braces up high out of the way. Nice buildings.i asume it faces south. You can hang tarps in the back to keep out snow. All the snow will dump toward the back. pine for framing is not that great, but...If its what u have..
👍 From Cadillac Michigan
Nice work. Concerning the span across the front, there was enough vertical space to fabricate in place a truss from manageable lengths of your own lumber that would have been at least as strong as the lvl's.
Yeah, that would have been an interesting option to try.
Excellent video! Beautiful looking building!
Even with 18” overhang all around, the building looks too narrow!!! Didn’t catch the size of the building, but it looks like the sawyer doesn’t have enough coverage on a windy day to keep the rain off him! Maybe u don’t saw on a rainy windy day!!
Just my thoughts
Floor area is 9'x25', with 3' wide path around the mill base all the way around. Then another 18" roof overhang beyond that.
Thanks and congrats on a beautiful sawmill shed. I'm guessing that is a Woodland Mills rig under the tarp. HM 126?
Thanks -- it's an HM-122.
all you guys with the sawmills should talk with the builders in your area. with wood costing so much.
Unfortunately they can't use ungraded lumber without a big hassle. It's doable for beams but would be a chore for framing lumber. Too bad, because the lumber I saw is better quality than you can buy.
Very nice , clean work . did you treat you wood with a sealer still looks new
Nothing put on the wood -- it has grayed up a bit since that video was shot back in Feb 2021.
Maybe I missed it. Just curious how tall your front posts are out of the ground vs the back post.
I really like the build and the channel. Great content.
Thanks
About 8' in the rear and 11' in the front.
Absolutely beautiful! Question. What do you about drying your lumber? Thanks
Most of my projects are built with green lumber. For the projects that require seasoned lumber, I store the lumber in a garage with a dehumidifier for 6-12 months until the desired moisture content is reached.
Did you do a drawing for this? Very nice work!
Great set up. I just bought myself the same mill. Where did you buy the Diamond gusset plates that joint the 6x6 posts. Or did you buy a full plate and cut them and spray painted. Are they steel.
Yes I had grabbed a couple big sheets of steel diamond plate at the scrap yard many years ago and decided to use some of it for the gusset plates rather than buy new flat plate stock. Diamond plate is harder to cut and drill but I already had it so I used it. Paint is brush-on rustoleum oil enamel.
Could you tell me how your table construction went. I need to build a 20 ft table
I'm getting a mill in Feb, just wondering how your sawmill shed is fairing regarding the use of green lumber? What if anything would you do different? Thanks for the video- mills shed looks great.
Here's another video where I revisited the project after 8 months:
th-cam.com/video/fioVE_omSEE/w-d-xo.html
Short take is that it all worked out well, no issues.
Are the post 8.5 to outside on end?
Jack, sorry another question, I’m going to use a flat Pratt truss to span the distance. Did you notch the post to accept the beam then apply the flat plate plus through bolts?
I did all that, but only used plates because I had them cut already (was intending to use a large pine beam sitting on top of the posts until I realized it would be too heavy). The LVLs were thinner, and really just needed the notching and through bolts. For most other projects like that, I just notch the post and through bolt. 1/2" bolts generally work well for this.
This is great! Do you happen to have any plans to build the shed?
Nope, I made it up as I went along! But it's all fairly standard framing for a pole barn with rafter & purlin roof.
Hello,
Thank you for your explanation.
I'm going to build a very similar shed.
I have a question about it and hope you read these comments,
You mentioned you planned to mill a 25' beam at 6" by 14" for the snowload in your area.
I've been looking everywhere but dont know how to find out what size beam I need to make for the front of my shed.
Mine will be 22 ft long but I live in British Columbia, I'm assuming I'll need about a 6"/14" pine beam like you mentioned but want to be sure.
Thanks
You might want to look at this other video I did:
th-cam.com/video/DjB1SQaCOd0/w-d-xo.html
Do u by chance have any plans on pole shed n platform mill sits on
Ty
Tony
Can you do a video on your barn you built?
Probably too late since it has already been built.
That's awesome looks great! Where are you from??
Thanks, from Virginia.
@@Lumber_Jack cool what part of Virginia?? That's where I'm from.
Hi Jack, I want to make something very similar to this. Could you tell me how you came up with the appropriate size for the header for the 25' span?
Start with your local snow loads and work out how much weight would be on the roof, then divide by half for the portion carried by the front beam. There are beam calculations and tables that can tell you how to size the beam based on a distributed load over the span with two end supports. You will take into account the material and construction of the beam. I had run the calculations for southern yellow pine and LVL beams to get sizing. Basically, you want the stress in the beam to be lower than the safe stress limits for the material and construction.
I normally size for 25 psf snow loads for this area, tidewater Virginia. You can also add in the material weight, but for a metal roof it tends to be much lower than even a modest snow load.
I would definitely design it to be able to load the deck from either side, you never know when you'll need to be able to load from either side "/
Jack, using a lot of your suggestions for our sawmill shed. Many thanks. You said that the front span was 2 LVL’s, what were the width of each and depth? How held together?
Due to availability, I’m considering a flat truss which can be made from 2x4’s cut on the mill. At 18” deep 25 ft span is no problem.
@@waynepettipas895 The LVLs are about 2" wide each and about 12-13" tall. Don't remember exactly, but they are standard sized. Two of them are sistered to each other with 12D framing nails shot every 12" top and bottom, then cross-bolted to the posts on the ends. That is for a 25PSF snow load over about 270 sq.ft of roof area and 25' span in front. Adjust as needed for other local snow loads.
Thanks Jack
@@waynepettipas895 how did you size the pratt truss? I would like to use the same method
Where did you get the mending plates that you used on the saw support/stand?
Cut and drilled them myself from scrap plate.
I always thought it best to use gravel instead of concrete around your posts in the ground so they could drain off water and dissipate moisture better. I fine job in any respect.
Definitely gravel is great to use in soil that drains and will keep the post hole dry. But in our clay soil, it won't add any benefit, since the clay makes the post hole like a bucket and it will hold water if you use gravel or a porous fill. Concrete (being denser than clay) will at least act like a plug in the hole and displace the water.
@@Lumber_Jack Unless I'm expecting a large side load, I don't get burying wood into wet soil. I use a Sonotube or similar and embed a metal bracket into the top of the curing concrete column.
@@johnsdsl I agree in general. But for a pole barn, you usually want the posts down deep for resistance to wind loads. The resisting moment provided by this mounting method, together with proper wall bracing, is key to handling wind loads and preventing the structure from folding over. Sometimes, the weak link will be the soil's ability to resist the motion, so that is the next thing to consider.
You said the poles were installed on concrete footing 3 feet down. Did you fill the holes to the surface with concrete or dirt?
I always backfill the holes with dry mix concrete. More details here: th-cam.com/video/M2onwH-JjZo/w-d-xo.html
You said there was 2 LVL beams across the front, were they both 25' long and span the entire width, or do they overlap somehow ? Also you never mentioned the base for the mill. Is it just sitting on the ground or are the legs into the ground the same as the building ?
Yes, two LVLs, each 1.75"x11.875" and 25' long. They are sistered up with 12D nails every 12". The mill base pokes down into the ground about 18" -- I wanted to get the bottom of the legs below the frost line here.
Thank you for answering my questions and sharing. You have a very well built and attractive shed for your mill that will last as long as you need to. It looks great.
Your Woodlands Mill looks like a fine machine. I bought a Norwood HD36 so I could mill bigger dia. logs and it has the ability to add things down the road, like hydraulics or power lift saw head. I am an engineer ,like you, although retired, so I could build whatever components I wanted as well. I made a log load/Turner for my mill. I use a tractor to load logs on a homemade log deck then roll them on the mill either with cant hook or the loader. I could load logs on to the mill with the loader if I didn't want to use the tractor with a set of ramps. I will try attach a picture so if you are interested in one you can build it.
Haven't been able to attach a pic. Since I can't, I'll tell you. I used an electric winch mounted to a cherry picker (like you use to pull an engine)that will pivot so you can move it out of the way. I bought a replacement hook for a cant hook or peavey and attached it to the cable with a small clevis so I could easily remove it from the hook on the cable if I wanted to use the winch to load a log by parbuckeling and using ramps. Pictures would have helped. I have pics just can't get them to attach.
@@woodlandharvesthoneycompanyllc ..Hi we just brought a Norwood HD 36 I am picking it up Thursday
Did you have to get a building permit and also have to get engineered plans - I live in Northern Ontario and want to build a sled like yours but don't see how I can use rough cut without the prints?? Is there a way around these regulations?
In my county in Virginia USA, anything under 256 sq.ft. does not need a permit. So I do a lot of buildings that are right under that limit. Saves a lot of hassle. I still build them to code but I don't need inspections or permits.
If you want to use ungraded lumber on a larger structure, it will need to be inspected and/or a structural engineer will need to sign the plans. This might be feasible for posts and beams where you can oversize in order to give extra margin against wood defects. But for framing lumber (you could have hundreds/thousands of individual pieces) it would be a chore.
Some states have exemptions if the lumber comes off the same property as the structure. Some states have exemptions for farm structures. Some states will allow you to hire an inspector to grade the lumber. It's very different from state to state. Best to inquire in your locality and see what the options are.
Good evening,
What is the total span of the roof front to back?
Thank you for all the information from your videos!
Front to back is 9'.
@@Lumber_Jack Thank you, I'm trying to build the same as yours. Just love your design.
The back center post didn't look like it was treated. What kind of wood did you use for the back center post? Did you place it in cement like the others?
It's a 6x6 rough sawn SYP post on top, lap-jointed to a pressure-treated 6x6 on the bottom. All posts set in dry mix concrete on top of a footing.
You tell the dimensions of your building front back all I got was it is 25 ft and nothing else not under standing
What do you think about using cedar for the post?
Strength is very low in most cedar species, so it would need to be a substantial size to make up for that.
What do you treat the wood with?
Nothing so far! May put some red barn paint on the siding in a few months when the wood is dried out.
@@Lumber_Jack spray it with some Thompsons water seal every year or two. No need to get too fancy haha
Beautiful home for your mill though!
Awesome job
Gusset plates. Where did you get them?
I made them from steel plate.
How much headroom do you need when the saw is all the way up
Drawings on the WM website will show you dimensions: cdn.woodlandmills.ca/resources/english/2021/hm122-drawing.pdf
Thanks for the drawings I ordered a 130 max three weeks ago it’ll probably be a little higher. I was just wondering how high the roof would have to be to clear the measuring stick
I got the trailer package also that’ll bring it up another couple feet
@@claytonhillier9496 They have drawings for the 130 on the website too, it shows min and max heights (including ruler) so you can figure all that out.
How wide is your shed post to post, front to back?
8.5' front to back.
@@Lumber_Jack thank you so much, nice building
how were you planning to cut a 25' beam with a 16' sawmill?
You can shift it back and forth on the mill bed (which is 19'), but it's a tedious process. I was planning to use my Alaskan mill, since it make short work of large pine beams and I could cut it on site where the tree fell. Much easier overall.
@@Lumber_Jack Ok thanks. That seems like a quite daunting task either way. I would be hard pressed to find a guide rail for the first cut with an alaskan mill. I've got a 50' extension ladder but still, I would need every last mm of its capacity. I'm commenting because I'm in the process of planning a shed of my own. Any thoughts on laminating such a large beam?
Where do you live? I live in upstate NY and we can have 3" of packed snow on the roof.
Virginia -- only about 1/3 the roof snow load here compared to upstate NY.
@@Lumber_Jack Thinking about something similar but with a removable center post on the front that I could place on a concrete pier that is level to the ground, just in the winter to handle the snow load.
just put leaf guards on the gutter
Any plans?
No but it's a fairly standard pole barn, so not complicated to design. Biggest thing to work out is the size beam needed for the front span, and that will be dependent on your local snow loads. I covered beam spec/design in another video.
Stain and varnish it
Very nice hope the building inspector doesn’t show up
It's gonna sag like a Swayed back horse
Not with the two LVL beams in there -- they have about 130% of the stiffness required for the span for our snow loads. That won't sag in anyone's lifetime.