Thank You! I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma. I've been working on the "Brake Warning Light" for a while now. Checked the switch: Good Topped off the Brake Fluid - Brake Warning light stayed on. Disconnected the the Master Cylinder brake fluid sensor connector. The sensor measured a high resistance - good. With the Master Cylinder brake fluid sensor still disconnected I noticed that my brake marking light was out. COOL! I reconnected the Master Cylinder brake fluid sensor, checked again and the warning light was still off. COOL! I think the sensor was stuck in the closed position and when I disconnected the the sensor there was enough vibration to open the contacts. Thanks Again!
I know this post is old. This is a good video and very informative, but I want to share a few things. 1. It's extremely difficult for those alligator clips to clip on without the clips touching each other. 2. I used some spare wires with pins crimped on them to allow me to attach the wires to the pins on the sensor. 3. You can also backprobe the connector while it's still plugged into the sensor by stabbing the leads into the wires.(not preferred but much easier.) Also if the light is just bugging the hell out of you and you already know what is.. 4.Unplug the sensor then disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal and voilà no more brake light on the instrument cluster 😅 (this also is an easy way to verify the problem is in the sensor.)✌️
Thanks. I have a Honda jazz/fit 2004 and couldn’t understand why the brake light didn’t change when I pulled the harness out. Now I know that it’s not the fluid that makes the continuity but the fluid that breaks the continuity. Good God. And I’m an Electrical Engineer
Thank you for making this, OMG, my brake light is on and I can’t drive my car!, moment into something I can easily check and fix myself! One panicked screaming match with my car diverted!! 👍
Is the brake light still on? do you need to clear the code? If the sensor is functional and I stiil have a brake light code, what else could be the problem?
Nicely done video, thanks for posting! I have a 2003 Accord just like yours, silver w/black interior. Mine has the V6. 93k on the clock. Best car I've ever owned, extremely reliable and great running!
ok, good video explained wiell. What If you test the brake switch under the emergency brake lever and the sensor in the master and they both test good? What do you do then? I have heard something about a float sticking; is that in the master cylinder or where and how do you test that without have to buy a new master and rebleed all the lines?
You have to then remove the brake reservoir. Empty it out and clean out with brake fluid. Then air out the reservoir and shake it until you hear the float moving. Then retest the float switch. It should be closed only with empty or low fluid level. It should open when the float rises with proper brake fluid level in the tank.
Soooo mine came on when I did the brakes ironically . Wasn’t on befor I did them but the rear caliper was seized so I did change that . Bled the system as well . My only guess is the fluid sensor
Thanks. I've mustang 2013. Sensors doesn't show continuity. But I'm not able to find sensor anywhere. Mechanic told me that I'll have to replace master cylinder. Which costs more. What should I do?
Seriously frustrating, ive replaced parking switch, no change, still on..no blown fuses that I can tell. Wiring says its fed power to mastr cylndr switch by connector. Green w/ornge stripe from ignition switch, on position or running.
Thanks for the video! What do I do if it’s beeping with the fluid out? I read up it can mean that the float is stuck down but I’m unsure on how to fix it
I need help guys what is the problem if the brake light is just staying on? When i push brake pedal it gies to the floor and barely stops i have to put foot all the way to floor anyone know what might be wrong? Thanks
I hope you post a video on dash removal to check the cluster..There is only 3 things 2 cause this E brake switch, res sender or cluster under dash that's why i'm almost positive like I said I hit the dash
Hi, my car is after 40 km coming break light on the way than automatically car stopped than after 10 minutes I started car same like continues. What is problem
If the light comes on and off as you say, then perhaps the brake fluid sensor switch is in the process of failure. If you have low pressure or low fluid from a leak, the light will stay on all the time. Before anything make sure your E-brake is off and there is no corrosion on that electrical connection and it is cleaned. Good luck.
Thank You!
I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma.
I've been working on the "Brake Warning Light" for a while now.
Checked the switch: Good
Topped off the Brake Fluid - Brake Warning light stayed on.
Disconnected the the Master Cylinder brake fluid sensor connector.
The sensor measured a high resistance - good.
With the Master Cylinder brake fluid sensor still disconnected I noticed that my brake marking light was out.
COOL!
I reconnected the Master Cylinder brake fluid sensor, checked again and the warning light was still off.
COOL!
I think the sensor was stuck in the closed position and when I disconnected the the sensor there was enough vibration to open the contacts.
Thanks Again!
I know this post is old. This is a good video and very informative, but I want to share a few things. 1. It's extremely difficult for those alligator clips to clip on without the clips touching each other. 2. I used some spare wires with pins crimped on them to allow me to attach the wires to the pins on the sensor. 3. You can also backprobe the connector while it's still plugged into the sensor by stabbing the leads into the wires.(not preferred but much easier.)
Also if the light is just bugging the hell out of you and you already know what is.. 4.Unplug the sensor then disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal and voilà no more brake light on the instrument cluster 😅 (this also is an easy way to verify the problem is in the sensor.)✌️
Thanks. I have a Honda jazz/fit 2004 and couldn’t understand why the brake light didn’t change when I pulled the harness out. Now I know that it’s not the fluid that makes the continuity but the fluid that breaks the continuity. Good God. And I’m an Electrical Engineer
Happy to help!
That means the brake switch in the pedal or the brake switch in the parking brake are closed all the time. Faulty switch
Awesome presentation my friend. Thank you. I will be testing mine this next weekend. Thank you for your help!
Thank you for making this, OMG, my brake light is on and I can’t drive my car!, moment into something I can easily check and fix myself! One panicked screaming match with my car diverted!! 👍
Is the brake light still on? do you need to clear the code? If the sensor is functional and I stiil have a brake light code, what else could be the problem?
Nicely done video, thanks for posting! I have a 2003 Accord just like yours, silver w/black interior. Mine has the V6. 93k on the clock. Best car I've ever owned, extremely reliable and great running!
Thank you. I agree. The build quality is top notch.
Great instructions. You explain very well. Thank you.
good video. screen before fluid i would think though to catch any debris
Is the low fluid sensor actually in the fluid or is it in its own tube?
Great video really appreciate the clear way you explain things solid show brother
I appreciate that!
Great video and efforts to show viewers the test,thanks
Thank you. Happy to help.
Hello
Where is brake fluid pressure sensor located in my Mercedes’ ml320 2000?
Thank you
ok, good video explained wiell. What If you test the brake switch under the emergency brake lever and the sensor in the master and they both test good? What do you do then? I have heard something about a float sticking; is that in the master cylinder or where and how do you test that without have to buy a new master and rebleed all the lines?
You have to then remove the brake reservoir. Empty it out and clean out with brake fluid. Then air out the reservoir and shake it until you hear the float moving. Then retest the float switch. It should be closed only with empty or low fluid level. It should open when the float rises with proper brake fluid level in the tank.
Can I just jump a wire between the connector to bridge the connection? That would turn off my brake vsa and abs lights in theory.?
Thank you. Very helpful. And the video was nicely done with clear explanations/directions for crayon eaters like me :)
How come your brake light is still on?
Soooo mine came on when I did the brakes ironically . Wasn’t on befor I did them but the rear caliper was seized so I did change that . Bled the system as well . My only guess is the fluid sensor
Thanks. I've mustang 2013. Sensors doesn't show continuity. But I'm not able to find sensor anywhere. Mechanic told me that I'll have to replace master cylinder. Which costs more. What should I do?
Is there other ways to test such as the harness? What does unplugging the harness and the brake light now turning off mean?
It means the float is stuck if there is brake fluid in the proper level. The car thinks the fluid is low and light comes on.
Awesome video.. very helpful. Great job 👍👍👍
Thanks for your time. Great video man, helped me out for sure.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful :)
Seriously frustrating, ive replaced parking switch, no change, still on..no blown fuses that I can tell. Wiring says its fed power to mastr cylndr switch by connector. Green w/ornge stripe from ignition switch, on position or running.
Please help
is it good now?
Add/ replace your break fluid. Probably takes about 1Ltr
A friend of my want to know how can he get the break light off.. He tested it like you did everything work
The light is and there's enough fluid in the master cylinder?
It could also be the emergency brake switch
I changed my parking brake switch an still, light is on....new master cylinder
Hey what about an error which says “oil lever too high”? Cheers
Thanks for the video! What do I do if it’s beeping with the fluid out? I read up it can mean that the float is stuck down but I’m unsure on how to fix it
I'm guessing that means it's a bad sensor? Mine is doing the same thing.
Great test
How do you replace the sensor? Can you just yank it out and pop a new one in?
Good video car's & toys, cheers my friend
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback!
GREAT VIDEO AND THANKS FOR SAVING ME A LOT OF $$$$$$. GOD BLESS
Happy to help.
I noticed you brake light didnt go off. Mine didnt either. Any ideas??
Great demo my friend
Thank you 👍
My Toyota caldina 2004 model the parking break stays on
I need help guys what is the problem if the brake light is just staying on? When i push brake pedal it gies to the floor and barely stops i have to put foot all the way to floor anyone know what might be wrong? Thanks
On mine the switch is in the cap. It's been going on and off, even though there is plenty of fluid in the master cylinder.
I hope you post a video on dash removal to check the cluster..There is only 3 things 2 cause this E brake switch, res sender or cluster under dash that's why i'm almost positive like I said I hit the dash
Hi, my car is after 40 km coming break light on the way than automatically car stopped than after 10 minutes I started car same like continues. What is problem
If the light comes on and off as you say, then perhaps the brake fluid sensor switch is in the process of failure. If you have low pressure or low fluid from a leak, the light will stay on all the time. Before anything make sure your E-brake is off and there is no corrosion on that electrical connection and it is cleaned. Good luck.
Can I repair faulty sensor
I replaced the brake fluid sensor the light went off but now its on constantly, I thought maybe the master cylinder but I'm not sure.
Constantly on and there's enough fluid in the master cylinder? What kind of vehicle are you working on?
How to remove the brake fluid level sensor out.
It's way easier to connect the alligator clips if you hold your lip right.
Brilliant
My brake fluid light came on does that mean all I need is more brake fluid?
Check it. It may be just that.
The fluid in the can is clear, but the fluid in the master cylinder is gray. Why is that?
cut the plug wires and splice in Ha 2 funny bring tape
Power to fluid switch, master cylinder?
Origin of power to fluid switch?
Replaced master cylinder for maintenance, then the light wont go off on dash
@@egulick9234 Were you able to find the issue ? Got a similar problem
Brake light flashing help
Mine stays on but when i pull out connector it goes off.
The switch tested fine
Still the switch
if you don't know what a multimeter is don't bother trying to fix your car take it to a shop or call a friend that does know
Thx sir
Glad to help
good
❤
the meter will Zero out my alarm sucks just touch the 2 leads together
Check the fluid first
All you got to do is wash it with water and it's gone that easy
Wow
It's easier to just replace the $10 sensor than go through all this in my opinion.
Where’s the sensor and where do you find my brake light is stuck on ?
@@mattsmith8827 It's what he tested in the video. It just slides out when you lunch the end clip.
02 accord lx sensor $30, i got 2 car. so $60
@@MHZ168YT I don't think they both need one at the same time. LOL!
@@seeya205i need to find out how to test on 02 accord lx sensor , they're different like 03 sensor.