As per your suggestion, I checked the coupling insert between motor and hydraulic pump. It was shredded. A new one is on the way, thanks to you. I will offer some input for you too, in case you may not know. Replace the ten bolts on the pusher sled with grade 5 or grade 8 bolts, and new nylon insert nuts. Three of those bolts snapped on my splitter before I knew what happened. Another thing, jack it up and check the play in the wheel bearings. My were loose after I towed it the first time. Love all the modifications you've done, Thanks again! Happy Splitting....
JoDee Zinck glad you found the spider failure before it ruined the steel couplers. Believe it or not I have not broken any push block bolts, I did tighten them up real good from new and snugged once more but yeah I’m on borrowed time with them for sure. Actually I’m drawing up a new push block that’s gonna be a lot heavier and larger than stock. It for sure will have good American grade bolts. Yup wheel bearings were readjusted just last week. Thanks for the reply
JoDee Zinck hopefully this is what you ordered...www.grainger.com/mobile/product/TB-WOOD-S-L090-L095-Hytrel-Jaw-Coupling-1A925 Our jaw size is LO90/LO95. If you ordered a spider to fit LO99/100 series hub it won’t work. Oh good to know. I seen this add for the 6 way too...www.zwajcommall.com/ruggedmade-6way-log-splitter-wedge-steel-six-way-wood-splitting-blade-p-609294.htm But not sure if it’s legit
There's a slight error with your oil flow when on the return stroke. With the rod being as large as it is compared to the diameter of the cylinder there is a marked increase in flow rate. On the extend stroke there's about 590ci to fill the ram. On the retract stroke only about 300ci is needed. With 56gpm being pumped in to the retract end there's approximately 110gpm being pumped out. With the Eastonmade 5" cylinder and 4.5" rod the ratio is extraordinary. I reckon the size of the hydraulic lines needs to go up a size at least especially around the dump valve. Based on my guesstimates without seeing a schematic of the hydraulics I'm guessing the flow rate of the oil is peaking at about 40 feet per sec.
Alan correct on flow calcs. I made up a working spreadsheet years ago to figure this all out as well as there are online ones too. You posted this on my wrong video but yeah I know your talking about my homemade splitter. The 1” Dump valve can handle 60 gpms alone which leaves 50 remaining which can easily be split up between each 3/4” return hose back thru each valve. My return pressures are just a little higher than this splitter...@ 300-400psi. I also left myself a 1.5” bung on my return manifold in case I want to return dump valve oil thru filters which are rated at 110 gpms. They way I have it plumbed now oil is returned to each end of beam in hopes to disperse heat all throughout. So far so good.
Did you find that the splitting pressure needed to be set when you got the splitter. I went from a 28 ton to 38 ton and I swear the 28 splits wood better. I do not have a gauge on there yet but the motor isn’t even bogging down when it’s trying to push wood that is stuck
Great video, only I could not think about doing all the plumbing. But I really like the heads up for the new spider....I’ll do it if I end up getting this machine, like I hope I will. I really like what you did got the catch table and side piece add on. Did you do the steel work or did you have it fabricated? If you had it fabricated, would you have a drawing for it and the cost? Thanks for the video it was superbly done.
The horsepower isn't tearing up your spider. there's an excellent chance you have an alignment issue. Probably cannot see it by eye but every revolution of the coupling causes friction which in time will eat away at the spider. Properly aligned shafts with correct couplings generally lasts years sometimes decades of use. Great video.
Not an alignment issues it a coupling size per torque/ hp rating per operating rpm. This coupling is way under sized and with a buna spider it is on borrowed time.
Garny is exactly right. An L095 coupler with a SOX/BUNA/NBR spider (Black) is undersized even for a 6.5HP engine like the Honda/Chonda 200cc class engines. To use a L095 you have to switch to a blue urethane spider. On that big 420cc dude, to stay with the L095 size coupler a Hytrel spider is required... and even then it is close to the limit.
I used to work on hydraulics all the time. Using standard 90* hydraulic fittings makes a lot of restriction. Also, open up the ports in the cylinder and round the edges.
Yeah swept fittings would be better. I did open cylinder ports but then I look inside hyd hose crimp stem IDs and think…well there’s a restriction point I can’t do anything about.
Nice Job on this video Garny! I am curious where your dump return goes into the tank. Is it at the bottom of the tank or mid or top. You generally want to be below the oil level but avoid the high pressure of the bottom for the best flow. Nice looking machine-well down!
On this machine it’s mid to bottom. All return oil flows thru these parallel filters. My newest splitter the dump oil has it own return in the mid bottom back. The constant return flow all the way to the front of beam tank.
@@garny3766 I was so impressed with the first return valves improvement, I put one on my splitting stoke as well. (For my processor) check out my build here: forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=97365.0
Hey Garny, going to be tackling the dump valve hook up this week, I noticed you have a considerably smaller diameter hose going from port 3 on the dump valve back to the rear cylinder/splitter valve. Why is that?
DRD, small hose is pilot circuit. This is needed to open the dump valve. Dump valve only opens on retract stroke and it needs hydraulic pressure to open. That’s why the pilot circuit is connected to the valve retract circuit. If it was open all the time cylinder extend would not happen as all oil would take path of least resistance out dump valve. And if the pilot was not hooked there would be no operational difference than what you currently have.
Hello awesome information can you tell me where to get one of these dump valves part numbers or manufacturer? I've call several hydraulic shops, cylinder repair shops, even the dealers for the prince auto cycle valves and everyone acts like they've never heard of a dump valves on a log splitter! Thanks for any info that you can give out
What rpm is the pump rated at 28Gpm . I thought they were round 4000rpm this project helps in heat, speed, fuel consumption and time well worth it in the long run
Hi Garny, thanks for the video. I'm just building a vertical log splitter now. I have, what looks like, the exact dump valve as you've got, arrive on my desk today (although I don't know if mine is supposed to dump quite as much? My stop watch says that you've gained nearly 1 second which, over a distance of 30", is neither here nor there. I'll probably shorten my ram up to a maximum of 18", so the dump valve will be even less noticeable, I guess, as you state, it'll help keep the oil cool. At any rate, if mine operated as fast as yours does (once I've completed it) even without the dump valve then I'll be really happy. Are all your hoses half inch, or are they 3/4", or what size/s do you have? Thanks for the heads up on the Love Joy connector's spider, I'm going to be running a 22 HP Honda GX690 V Twin engine with a 28 GPM pump, so I'm gonna shorten them rubbers in short order, I'd imagine?
SeriousSchitt if your cylinder to rod ratio is close then you will see the benefits of a dump valve. If you running a 4” bore x 2” rod... not worth it. Most all 3/4” hoses except pilot circuit for dump valve control is 1/4” and log lift is 1/2”. I’m probably gonna be selling this splitter because I’m building one to replace it. Nothing wrong with this machine just I can’t leave well enough alone...it can always be bigger, faster, etc.
@@garny3766 Thanks for the info Garny. I'm only just getting into hydraulics, but why does the pressure go from 500PSI, while the ram is moving, to 1,500 when it stops? I thought, once the cycle had stopped, the valve parks itself in neutral and the flow goes straight through the valve to the tank with no pressure?
@@SeriousSchitt 500psi is how much pressure it takes to retract the cylinder with 28gpms no dump valve. With dump open it’s 200-250 1500psi is the detent setting pressure on that spool that kicks the valve spool back to neutral. Max system pressure is set to 2300psi
I know you dont have the rugged made any more but can you tell me where the pivot point was to make the table work i am thinking it was below the 2 pieces of 1x2 box ?
Looks good 1.5 seconds is 1.5 seconds. Seconds make minutes, minutes make hours. Do you have a parts list for your setup? Really thinking about doing the auto cycle.
Outside with Scheib that’s true! I’ll look when I get home. I know most was ordered from www.surpluscenter.com/ and some from m.splitez.com/log_splitter_parts.html
Outside with Scheib these are the main parts... Surplus Center: 9-6587-PB Auto cycle valve. Make sure you get the power beyond “PB” suffix Numerous fittings,flanges,gauges,filter, suction strainer, etc from here too. Splitez: Ez-28GPM 2 stage pump 65 GPM dump valve
Is the chrome rod hollow or solid ? Why after retracting the gauge sets at 1500 psi ? where is that coming from . Some of the retract pressure is built up to open the dump valve, some dump valves only need 25 psi.
Rex, I believe it is solid. I cut the rod end off the cylinder I bought for my homemade splitter and it was solid. Pressure remains high due to the fact of pressure being trapped after detent kicks off. The gauge is reading rod side and dump valve pilot circuit not base port pressure.
@@garny3766 So if the pilot is under pressure, the dump valve stays open until the extend lever is pushed ? It seems that the 250 PSI retract pressure should be all you have.cant see how it jumps up to 1500 so quick. Is your trick manifold on top the ARV made with square tube or all hand fab'd ? I am going to follow your lead on mine, hope you dont mind.
@@garny3766 Can you reduce the detent pressure needed to pop the valve to neutral? 1500 is a lot of tonnage on a return short stroke stop bar, and that high pressure will pull the rod out of the push plate. To help reduce engine noise, why not mount it low and father back? I may use a operator side panel and hood with AC duct insulation sound deadner inside, any thoughts on making it quieter for the user ? Thanks for your time and info,
@@rexhavoc2982 if set much lower return spool will pop to neutral when switching from extend to retract. And oil temp plays into it as well. I don’t use stop block. I like center mount controls for operating from both sides. Yeah quieter is always a good thing, just make sure engine has adequate air flow if your using an engine such as this.
I should have watched this video before! Lol! I did fit my 26 gpm pump on the splitter, but not a great success. One detail I missed. To make a long story short, I wanted to have the whole setup: engine, pump, alternator, oil tank, filter, etc to be a portable hydraulic unit for another project. So I added quick connect couplers along the hoses, near the valve. The hoses are 3/4 in and so the quick connects are. You had a 500 psi on the return without the dump valve. I would say my engine was laboring back and forth, running empty! Enough that the pump was going on the lower stage (6gpm) very quickly. So I decided to go back to my old pump (12gpm/3gpm). Now that I am thinking of it, I wonder if my quick couplers were the culprit of that. What do you think of that? Thanks for your advice Garny!
From Steel To Wood it’s possible the QCs are restricting. How do you have the power unit plumbed?...is the valve on the unit or on the splitter?? What gpm is the valve?
Yes, there is. I ran the unit hooked to the splitter all the time. The relief valve in parallel to the splitter circuit. So there is no flow through that valve unless it exceeds 2100 psi. I did send you a private video in an E-mail. Thanks!
Aint it a shame you need to make all the changes to make it right after spending all that money to buy a "good" splitter? I hope they see your improvements and use them. The 90 degree edge on the sorting table can cause wood to get stuck, flatten them to 45. I hole sawed the oil tank and welded 2 inch thin wall muffler tubing through so air can pass through the tank and drag out some heat.
Rex that is why I bought this splitter. I got it on sale for a good price knowing I was going to do these mods and still come in at half the price of the brand name commercial splitters. The angle edges on catch table were just something I bolted on to stop roll offs. But yeah I 45’d the edges in my new custom built splitter in my other videos. The convection tubes was an idea I was thinking about but reducing the capacity of the already way undersized oil tank was not an option. I was thinking about adding vertical heat fins to the wall of the tank instead. I would like to find some extruded aluminum cooling fins to use much like what voltage regulators are made out of. But my thinkings was to limit the oils restrictions as much as possible. This inturn keeps the oil cooler. Dump valve and extra filtration helps with this. Hottest I’ve seen was 140*f
Hope I can figure out what you did, as it apparently works. But you have too much flipping back and forth to keep track of what you are showing on the screen. Some slower movement and verbal explanation of why and when you want to show what is happening at the moment the screen view flips would be helpful. Realize that takes time and planning. ;) Hope in another video, or previous one, the actual changes made are a bit more obvious. Thanks for doing this and attempting to show the faster return speed as a result of your fab job.
![เจอประจำ ตอน พักเที่ยง [EP.32]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jvqk6uJoVks/mqdefault.jpg)
i just realized i was impressed with your skills a long time back john
As per your suggestion, I checked the coupling insert between motor and hydraulic pump. It was shredded. A new one is on the way, thanks to you. I will offer some input for you too, in case you may not know. Replace the ten bolts on the pusher sled with grade 5 or grade 8 bolts, and new nylon insert nuts. Three of those bolts snapped on my splitter before I knew what happened. Another thing, jack it up and check the play in the wheel bearings. My were loose after I towed it the first time. Love all the modifications you've done, Thanks again! Happy Splitting....
JoDee Zinck glad you found the spider failure before it ruined the steel couplers. Believe it or not I have not broken any push block bolts, I did tighten them up real good from new and snugged once more but yeah I’m on borrowed time with them for sure. Actually I’m drawing up a new push block that’s gonna be a lot heavier and larger than stock. It for sure will have good American grade bolts. Yup wheel bearings were readjusted just last week. Thanks for the reply
JoDee Zinck forgot to ask...is it a replacement spider from ruggedmade or did you order a Hytrel spider?
@@garny3766 The spider coupling is a Dayton, from Grainger. BTW, Amazon has a 6 way splitter that fits this machine. ($200.)
JoDee Zinck hopefully this is what you ordered...www.grainger.com/mobile/product/TB-WOOD-S-L090-L095-Hytrel-Jaw-Coupling-1A925
Our jaw size is LO90/LO95. If you ordered a spider to fit LO99/100 series hub it won’t work.
Oh good to know. I seen this add for the 6 way too...www.zwajcommall.com/ruggedmade-6way-log-splitter-wedge-steel-six-way-wood-splitting-blade-p-609294.htm
But not sure if it’s legit
Thank you! the benefit is clear when you open your dump valve when it's retracting. Clearly hear the engine load reduced.
What make and model is that? It looks great !
Great idea. Thanks for sharing
There's a slight error with your oil flow when on the return stroke. With the rod being as large as it is compared to the diameter of the cylinder there is a marked increase in flow rate. On the extend stroke there's about 590ci to fill the ram. On the retract stroke only about 300ci is needed. With 56gpm being pumped in to the retract end there's approximately 110gpm being pumped out. With the Eastonmade 5" cylinder and 4.5" rod the ratio is extraordinary. I reckon the size of the hydraulic lines needs to go up a size at least especially around the dump valve.
Based on my guesstimates without seeing a schematic of the hydraulics I'm guessing the flow rate of the oil is peaking at about 40 feet per sec.
Alan correct on flow calcs. I made up a working spreadsheet years ago to figure this all out as well as there are online ones too. You posted this on my wrong video but yeah I know your talking about my homemade splitter. The 1” Dump valve can handle 60 gpms alone which leaves 50 remaining which can easily be split up between each 3/4” return hose back thru each valve. My return pressures are just a little higher than this splitter...@ 300-400psi. I also left myself a 1.5” bung on my return manifold in case I want to return dump valve oil thru filters which are rated at 110 gpms. They way I have it plumbed now oil is returned to each end of beam in hopes to disperse heat all throughout. So far so good.
Did you find that the splitting pressure needed to be set when you got the splitter. I went from a 28 ton to 38 ton and I swear the 28 splits wood better. I do not have a gauge on there yet but the motor isn’t even bogging down when it’s trying to push wood that is stuck
Great video, only I could not think about doing all the plumbing. But I really like the heads up for the new spider....I’ll do it if I end up getting this machine, like I hope I will. I really like what you did got the catch table and side piece add on. Did you do the steel work or did you have it fabricated? If you had it fabricated, would you have a drawing for it and the cost? Thanks for the video it was superbly done.
These are good machines at a good price. All fabrication was done by me. No plans. I do most all my projects in my head.
Hi, Great job and excellent performance. Can you give drawing for hydraulics? Regards,
Marko.
The horsepower isn't tearing up your spider. there's an excellent chance you have an alignment issue. Probably cannot see it by eye but every revolution of the coupling causes friction which in time will eat away at the spider. Properly aligned shafts with correct couplings generally lasts years sometimes decades of use. Great video.
Not an alignment issues it a coupling size per torque/ hp rating per operating rpm. This coupling is way under sized and with a buna spider it is on borrowed time.
@@garny3766 That will do it.
Garny is exactly right. An L095 coupler with a SOX/BUNA/NBR spider (Black) is undersized even for a 6.5HP engine like the Honda/Chonda 200cc class engines. To use a L095 you have to switch to a blue urethane spider. On that big 420cc dude, to stay with the L095 size coupler a Hytrel spider is required... and even then it is close to the limit.
I used to work on hydraulics all the time. Using standard 90* hydraulic fittings makes a lot of restriction. Also, open up the ports in the cylinder and round the edges.
Yeah swept fittings would be better. I did open cylinder ports but then I look inside hyd hose crimp stem IDs and think…well there’s a restriction point I can’t do anything about.
Nice Job on this video Garny! I am curious where your dump return goes into the tank. Is it at the bottom of the tank or mid or top. You generally want to be below the oil level but avoid the high pressure of the bottom for the best flow. Nice looking machine-well down!
On this machine it’s mid to bottom. All return oil flows thru these parallel filters. My newest splitter the dump oil has it own return in the mid bottom back. The constant return flow all the way to the front of beam tank.
@@garny3766 I was so impressed with the first return valves improvement, I put one on my splitting stoke as well. (For my processor) check out my build here: forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=97365.0
Hey Garny, going to be tackling the dump valve hook up this week, I noticed you have a considerably smaller diameter hose going from port 3 on the dump valve back to the rear cylinder/splitter valve. Why is that?
DRD, small hose is pilot circuit. This is needed to open the dump valve. Dump valve only opens on retract stroke and it needs hydraulic pressure to open. That’s why the pilot circuit is connected to the valve retract circuit. If it was open all the time cylinder extend would not happen as all oil would take path of least resistance out dump valve. And if the pilot was not hooked there would be no operational difference than what you currently have.
Where did you get the dump valve? Do you have a link? 😊
Thanks Garny, you just took the guess work out for me, this is a must do upgrade for me.
dan jangula glad I could help.
The question is whether it’s worth the cost ??? Would a radiator and electric fan be a better investment ???
Hello awesome information can you tell me where to get one of these dump valves part numbers or manufacturer? I've call several hydraulic shops, cylinder repair shops, even the dealers for the prince auto cycle valves and everyone acts like they've never heard of a dump valves on a log splitter! Thanks for any info that you can give out
What’s the make and part number on that dump valve
Hi I am desper need of part # of dump valve having a hard time finding thanks
What rpm is the pump rated at 28Gpm . I thought they were round 4000rpm this project helps in heat, speed, fuel consumption and time well worth it in the long run
Hi Garny, Where did you get your dump valve ? I've been looking for one ! Best regards
m.splitez.com/log_splitter_wood_splitters.html
Hi Garny, thanks for the video. I'm just building a vertical log splitter now. I have, what looks like, the exact dump valve as you've got, arrive on my desk today (although I don't know if mine is supposed to dump quite as much? My stop watch says that you've gained nearly 1 second which, over a distance of 30", is neither here nor there. I'll probably shorten my ram up to a maximum of 18", so the dump valve will be even less noticeable, I guess, as you state, it'll help keep the oil cool. At any rate, if mine operated as fast as yours does (once I've completed it) even without the dump valve then I'll be really happy.
Are all your hoses half inch, or are they 3/4", or what size/s do you have?
Thanks for the heads up on the Love Joy connector's spider, I'm going to be running a 22 HP Honda GX690 V Twin engine with a 28 GPM pump, so I'm gonna shorten them rubbers in short order, I'd imagine?
SeriousSchitt if your cylinder to rod ratio is close then you will see the benefits of a dump valve. If you running a 4” bore x 2” rod... not worth it.
Most all 3/4” hoses except pilot circuit for dump valve control is 1/4” and log lift is 1/2”.
I’m probably gonna be selling this splitter because I’m building one to replace it. Nothing wrong with this machine just I can’t leave well enough alone...it can always be bigger, faster, etc.
@@garny3766 Thanks for the info Garny. I'm only just getting into hydraulics, but why does the pressure go from 500PSI, while the ram is moving, to 1,500 when it stops?
I thought, once the cycle had stopped, the valve parks itself in neutral and the flow goes straight through the valve to the tank with no pressure?
@@SeriousSchitt 500psi is how much pressure it takes to retract the cylinder with 28gpms no dump valve. With dump open it’s 200-250
1500psi is the detent setting pressure on that spool that kicks the valve spool back to neutral. Max system pressure is set to 2300psi
@@garny3766 Thanks Garny, I could learn a lot off you, I reckon.
I know you dont have the rugged made any more but can you tell me where the pivot point was to make the table work i am thinking it was below the 2 pieces of 1x2 box ?
It was on top of 1x3. Pivot was as close to table deck as I could get to keep top of beam and table almost level.
Great job god bless
Looks good 1.5 seconds is 1.5 seconds. Seconds make minutes, minutes make hours. Do you have a parts list for your setup? Really thinking about doing the auto cycle.
Outside with Scheib that’s true! I’ll look when I get home. I know most was ordered from www.surpluscenter.com/ and some from m.splitez.com/log_splitter_parts.html
Outside with Scheib these are the main parts...
Surplus Center:
9-6587-PB Auto cycle valve. Make sure you get the power beyond “PB” suffix
Numerous fittings,flanges,gauges,filter, suction strainer, etc from here too.
Splitez:
Ez-28GPM 2 stage pump
65 GPM dump valve
How did you get dual ports on the end of your cylinder?
David Atkinson I drilled the cyl wall and welded a coupling to it clocked 90* to original port. My very first video shows close up of the coupling.
Is the chrome rod hollow or solid ? Why after retracting the gauge sets at 1500 psi ? where is that coming from . Some of the retract pressure is built up to open the dump valve, some dump valves only need 25 psi.
Rex, I believe it is solid. I cut the rod end off the cylinder I bought for my homemade splitter and it was solid. Pressure remains high due to the fact of pressure being trapped after detent kicks off. The gauge is reading rod side and dump valve pilot circuit not base port pressure.
@@garny3766 So if the pilot is under pressure, the dump valve stays open until the extend lever is pushed ? It seems that the 250 PSI retract pressure should be all you have.cant see how it jumps up to 1500 so quick. Is your trick manifold on top the ARV made with square tube or all hand fab'd ? I am going to follow your lead on mine, hope you dont mind.
@@rexhavoc2982 still have to get to 1500 to trip detent. 250 is how much pressure to move rod/push plate. Square tube is manifold.
@@garny3766 Can you reduce the detent pressure needed to pop the valve to neutral? 1500 is a lot of tonnage on a return short stroke stop bar, and that high pressure will pull the rod out of the push plate. To help reduce engine noise, why not mount it low and father back? I may use a operator side panel and hood with AC duct insulation sound deadner inside, any thoughts on making it quieter for the user ? Thanks for your time and info,
@@rexhavoc2982 if set much lower return spool will pop to neutral when switching from extend to retract. And oil temp plays into it as well. I don’t use stop block. I like center mount controls for operating from both sides. Yeah quieter is always a good thing, just make sure engine has adequate air flow if your using an engine such as this.
The pressure also creates HEAT... the valve of less heat is also a good thing... Yes, it is worth it... pressure equals friction of the parts also.
Where did you get the cylinder?? Huge
Victor Medrano came with the splitter. It’s a ruggedmade 37 ton
Where did you get the dump valve?
Sorry read the other comments.
Hi what size pump is this? Looks to be working very well 🤠
28gpm 2 stage
Thanks, have you any more videos of it splitting wood?
@@chrisj9420 just what’s on my channel. Think there’s 4 or 5 vids. I no longer have this splitter.
Why you using 2 lever valve. .most come with one??
This is an auto cycle valve. It has 2 spools to function
Grest video
Looks like a lot of work for nothing. Area you racing another splitter.?
I should have watched this video before! Lol! I did fit my 26 gpm pump on the splitter, but not a great success. One detail I missed. To make a long story short, I wanted to have the whole setup: engine, pump, alternator, oil tank, filter, etc to be a portable hydraulic unit for another project. So I added quick connect couplers along the hoses, near the valve. The hoses are 3/4 in and so the quick connects are. You had a 500 psi on the return without the dump valve. I would say my engine was laboring back and forth, running empty! Enough that the pump was going on the lower stage (6gpm) very quickly. So I decided to go back to my old pump (12gpm/3gpm). Now that I am thinking of it, I wonder if my quick couplers were the culprit of that. What do you think of that? Thanks for your advice Garny!
From Steel To Wood it’s possible the QCs are restricting. How do you have the power unit plumbed?...is the valve on the unit or on the splitter?? What gpm is the valve?
The QC are next to the valve. Valve on the splitter. Valve rated for 30 gpm. Maybe I can send you a picture or even better a private video.
From Steel To Wood ok. With the valve being on the splitter do you have some type of relief on your power unit?
Yes, there is. I ran the unit hooked to the splitter all the time. The relief valve in parallel to the splitter circuit. So there is no flow through that valve unless it exceeds 2100 psi. I did send you a private video in an E-mail. Thanks!
You would be better off using Loctite 577 high pressure sealant , than the general 567 white .
I’ll have to try that. What I got from the local hydraulic shop is loctite 565. They use a lot of it with good results.
Aint it a shame you need to make all the changes to make it right after spending all that money to buy a "good" splitter? I hope they see your improvements and use them. The 90 degree edge on the sorting table can cause wood to get stuck, flatten them to 45. I hole sawed the oil tank and welded 2 inch thin wall muffler tubing through so air can pass through the tank and drag out some heat.
Rex that is why I bought this splitter. I got it on sale for a good price knowing I was going to do these mods and still come in at half the price of the brand name commercial splitters. The angle edges on catch table were just something I bolted on to stop roll offs. But yeah I 45’d the edges in my new custom built splitter in my other videos.
The convection tubes was an idea I was thinking about but reducing the capacity of the already way undersized oil tank was not an option. I was thinking about adding vertical heat fins to the wall of the tank instead. I would like to find some extruded aluminum cooling fins to use much like what voltage regulators are made out of. But my thinkings was to limit the oils restrictions as much as possible. This inturn keeps the oil cooler. Dump valve and extra filtration helps with this. Hottest I’ve seen was 140*f
Hope I can figure out what you did, as it apparently works. But you have too much flipping back and forth to keep track of what you are showing on the screen. Some slower movement and verbal explanation of why and when you want to show what is happening at the moment the screen view flips would be helpful. Realize that takes time and planning. ;)
Hope in another video, or previous one, the actual changes made are a bit more obvious.
Thanks for doing this and attempting to show the faster return speed as a result of your fab job.
My first video shows it too. I do not have a video of it in stock form. For that you will have to look at other Ruggedmade 37 ton splitter videos.