Go ahead and get yourself one of those Motion Pro chain breakers. It will eliminate the need to grind (although you could pre grind some if you want) and it will press the plate on for you nice and even.
1:49 As I saw on RK website, spun pins is already very dangerous condition. You have to replace before it happens. I also replacing chain now, and my old one has round 100h in pure mud + 100h on "dry" riding. I replacing in because it because width of plates 2 mm less. 4:17 do this manipulations when master link on the sprocket. It will not wobble so much. 10:22 torque it once with the torque wrench and make marks. Later you can use marks as indicators that you do not overtight/undertight it with impact gun.
Great video! After washing my bike one day, I noticed paint missing on the inside of my frame, just behind the front sprocket above the chain slider. I was using a DirtTricks chain checking tool like I do with my MTB's to check for stretch and it kept saying the chain was good so I rode it way to long. My wear was more so in the side to side play, not stretch. I put about 100 hours and 1500 miles on the chain and will change my next chain next time a bit sooner. I was confused on how to check chain wear and it is still a bit of a mystery but I have learned that pin wear and side to side play is much more of an indicator than stretch. This was all done with a Tusk Primary Drive 520 ORH X-Ring Chain.
THANKS! Sounds like you got some good use out of that Tusk Chain! And I would agree. After checking with Nate Delaney at DDC, he said "RK seems to be more interested in spun pins, flattened plates and damaged/missing o-rings". The more those parts of the chain show deterioration, the quicker chain failure could sneak up and bite ya.
I do everything just like you. The only thing I would do differently is replacing everything at once, not front sprocket and chain, and later the rear sprocket.
Add a pin (from the chain) to the face of the vicegrips and you can really clamp to the middle of the plate, makes compressing the plates down super easy. I have a special tool even. cheers
@@SeatTime It pushes out the pins for removing links and master links. When installing put a small spacer over the tools pin, then use it to press both ends of the master link down then pop the clip on. Piece of cake 🎂
Just be mindful different people can have hugely larger or smaller hands and fingers when using the 3 finger guide. I suggest setting the slack per the a measuring device (ruler, vernier,..) and then testing to see if it is 2, 3.5 or 4 fingers for your size hand. Then make a note on your phone, or in your manual or your brain. I have seen chains adjusted too tight and the result was a broken, cracked rear engine / transmission housing in the area where the swingarm bolt goes though. And we all know a too loose chain can aslo cause servere damage or crashes.
5:28 is it wear marks from chain plates on used sprocket, or it was machined like this from factory. Looks suspicious, like sprocket is too wide for chain.
Go ahead and get yourself one of those Motion Pro chain breakers. It will eliminate the need to grind (although you could pre grind some if you want) and it will press the plate on for you nice and even.
Someone else mentioned the Tusk one is $18. That’s an investment I need to make!!
1:49 As I saw on RK website, spun pins is already very dangerous condition. You have to replace before it happens. I also replacing chain now, and my old one has round 100h in pure mud + 100h on "dry" riding. I replacing in because it because width of plates 2 mm less.
4:17 do this manipulations when master link on the sprocket. It will not wobble so much.
10:22 torque it once with the torque wrench and make marks. Later you can use marks as indicators that you do not overtight/undertight it with impact gun.
Great video! After washing my bike one day, I noticed paint missing on the inside of my frame, just behind the front sprocket above the chain slider. I was using a DirtTricks chain checking tool like I do with my MTB's to check for stretch and it kept saying the chain was good so I rode it way to long. My wear was more so in the side to side play, not stretch. I put about 100 hours and 1500 miles on the chain and will change my next chain next time a bit sooner. I was confused on how to check chain wear and it is still a bit of a mystery but I have learned that pin wear and side to side play is much more of an indicator than stretch. This was all done with a Tusk Primary Drive 520 ORH X-Ring Chain.
THANKS! Sounds like you got some good use out of that Tusk Chain! And I would agree. After checking with Nate Delaney at DDC, he said "RK seems to be more interested in spun pins, flattened plates and damaged/missing o-rings". The more those parts of the chain show deterioration, the quicker chain failure could sneak up and bite ya.
I press the new link on with vise grips also but I use a 10mm nut that fits over the pin, sort of like a mini press.
Love that! Sounds like a simple tool to make too if you can weld.
@@SeatTime Don't need to weld, just place the nut over the pin and squeeze. Won't mar the pins. We do share the same chain breaker, lol.
I do everything just like you. The only thing I would do differently is replacing everything at once, not front sprocket and chain, and later the rear sprocket.
Add a pin (from the chain) to the face of the vicegrips and you can really clamp to the middle of the plate, makes compressing the plates down super easy. I have a special tool even. cheers
I use a Tusk HD Chain Breaker tool... It makes chain and master link work(on & off) SOOO much easier and its all of $18 ....
$18 does seem like a solid investment… I may need to grab one for the next chain 🤔🧐
@@SeatTime It pushes out the pins for removing links and master links. When installing put a small spacer over the tools pin, then use it to press both ends of the master link down then pop the clip on. Piece of cake 🎂
Just be mindful different people can have hugely larger or smaller hands and fingers when using the 3 finger guide.
I suggest setting the slack per the a measuring device (ruler, vernier,..) and then testing to see if it is 2, 3.5 or 4 fingers for your size hand. Then make a note on your phone, or in your manual or your brain. I have seen chains adjusted too tight and the result was a broken, cracked rear engine / transmission housing in the area where the swingarm bolt goes though. And we all know a too loose chain can aslo cause servere damage or crashes.
That’s a HECK of a great point!!! 🤘🏻🤙🏻⚡️
5:28 is it wear marks from chain plates on used sprocket, or it was machined like this from factory. Looks suspicious, like sprocket is too wide for chain.
10k thumbs up for the music playing during front sprocket removal. CDT video playing in the background?
When my chain gets noisy I start looking at it closer.
yup, a loose chain will certainly make some noise!!!
40hrs! what nonsense
It's been a ROUGH 40 hours. Race hours, and conditions, play a huge part of chain and part wear.