One of the biggest things for me now is the grips. I got injured in the military and have nerve damage to my right hand thanks to the surgery. I am more susceptible to vibration because if it. I change to a pair of Odi Rogue grips in the softest compound available. They are a game changer since using them I don't loose grip with my right hand and don't have to worry about not being able to use the front brake either.
Nice breakdown, good stuff and a few things that I've never really put much thought into. Definitely got me thinking on a few things I may need to change 👍
Easy pull levers have been a game changer for me. I cannot believe how much less fatigue and arm pump I experience as a result! Secret tip: buy steering damper pro taper bars for lower bars and save some money!:/
I'm currently running a Scott's damper on my 23 Husqvarna TE300. Raised the bar height way too much I think. I already had the Scott's damper, so I went with the BRP mounts. But now that I'm getting more experienced with the sport (off road Enduro racing) Mako mounts seem to be much more popular. I don't live in Southern California anymore, I'm in the southeast where everything is super tight single track in deep woods. Most people don't run a steering damper. I was thinking about ditching the steering damper and going with a low Mako mount...OR trying to find a ultra low bar (22mm he said) with my current setup. Are the 22mm rise bars still available? I'm 6'3" long and lankey, I'm using lower pegs which helps some, but I don't want to run a tall seat. I think lowering the bars as much as possible with help, because at the moment I don't like how the front end feels. The stock WP Xplor forks sucked, so I had a local guy replace the cartridges with another kit. I'm not fast enough to justify spending $4k+ yet... Maybe I will in the future. I come from roadracing and understand spending several thousand on Ohlins suspension for example means everything. Any recommendations on offroad suspension brands/kits?
Agreed with your suggestions. A more expensive part/change I’ve found made the most difference in my confidence/speed/results was suspension on my 2021 300 XCW. But lever and fastest pegs were big helps as well. Love the videos and see you at races. Keep it up!
Great info. Check out the carapac pegs, I put them on my 25 Sherco, 5mm back and 5mm lower. I'm 6' and I've never had a bike that going from sitting to standing to be so easy. I also have the Mako. The oem bars are pretty low so I'm leaving them. It hasn't rained in about 6 months here in the SW and it's unbelievable how how well this bike turns and hooks up on our marble covered concrete. Love this bike. Arc's are the best. Good luck on the 4S.
Ohhhh, will do! I was looking for other pegs to mention but didn’t have a good one. Thanks for offering up a recommendation! 🤘🏻🤙🏻⚡️ REALLY hoping to get on a 2025!!
I have been wanting to try the R-duro levers. I do have arm pump early on. I found with enduros I was always better after gas once the arm pump disappeared. I thin the R-duro thing might help. I felt one, not sure how that would play with slipping the clutch. It does have a breakover point where it gets easier. I have a under mount damper with the Mako. Using the stock nekken bars. I have thought about a flatter bar to compensate. I didn't know that protaper actually made one. My have to give that whirl before swapping out levers. In my 50s and pretty resided that I'm never going pro, but being a better rider is never a bad thing ;-)
Did you go for the aluminum or the "memlon" ARCs? I've had my "memlon" ARCs on for about a year and a half, and I like everything about them except that as I'm working on some slightly more advanced techniques, which require both throttle and front brake at the same time, the flex of the brake lever is starting to bug me. Reason is that I have to run the dead position a bit further from the bar than I'd like in order to be able to apply enough pressure on the lever to lock the front wheel, since that pressure is enough to flex the lever 1/4" or so. Granted this is with a Braktec front brake on a GasGas, which isn't as grabby as the Brembo.
Aluminum, I wanted to try the "normal" levers before getting any of the other features/options, etc. For the front brake pressure, have you tried running the lever perch in on the handlebar a tad more and then adjusting lever reach? This could possibly give you more leverage on the lever itself.
@@SeatTime yep, I run my levers pretty far in so I can get more leverage. Pretty much to the point where I can just get my pointer figure on the end of the lever comfortably + a little bit in case I need to use two fingers. A really good rider recommended it years ago, and I'm amazed with how much difference it made to hand fatigue. So leverage isn't really an issue, it's the resting position I have to run the levers at and where the engagement needs to start. Both are about 1/4" further out than I run on my KTM with stock aluminum levers. Not a problem in regular riding/enduro, but for some hard enduro trickery it becomes a bit harder, since I don't have the longest fingers (wear "M" sized gloves typically). I'm going to give the aluminum ARC a try I think, even though I have been liking the temperature consistency of the plastic ones.
Great video and tips! Im looking for a little advice on my bar set up on my FE350. Iv got 250+ hours on the bike, all with the mentioned fastaway drop/back pegs and tusk 15mm bar risers. As I have raced more and gotten more confident with aggressive riding, Im looking to get more handling aggression back out of the bike as its very tame and "easy to drive" at the moment. The stock bars are Pro-taper's with a 80mm height (+15mm so 95mm total). Im thinking of removing the 15mm risers as a starting place to get more over the front end and get more steering bite. Maybe better climbing ability too? When you mentioned 35mm and even 22mm bars, your multiple inches lower than my current set up, thats a lot! Im 6 feet tall and feel comfortable on the bike. Do you think removing the riser will have a noticeable feel and should I try a lower bend? Maybe the bar mount on the Sherco itself is higher then the KTM/Husky. Thanks!
As someone who is tall (6ft 6in) you’re very wrong.😂 it makes them very twitchy when you put big risers in your bars. Personally I run odi 828 rolled forward some and that’s it. When you talk it’s almost hard not to end up to far over bike. I have to remind myself to stay loose, hang my ass off the back and use my long legs to my advantage. Suspension and tires are the only thing I’ve ever seen make a difference in speed. Everything else I can get used to in a couple minutes.
One of the biggest things for me now is the grips. I got injured in the military and have nerve damage to my right hand thanks to the surgery. I am more susceptible to vibration because if it.
I change to a pair of Odi Rogue grips in the softest compound available. They are a game changer since using them I don't loose grip with my right hand and don't have to worry about not being able to use the front brake either.
Have you tried the MAKO360 or a set of FlexxBars to help with the nerve pain?
Nice breakdown, good stuff and a few things that I've never really put much thought into. Definitely got me thinking on a few things I may need to change 👍
Heck Yeah! Let us know what they are and how the learning goes so we can all keep evolving.
Easy pull levers have been a game changer for me. I cannot believe how much less fatigue and arm pump I experience as a result!
Secret tip: buy steering damper pro taper bars for lower bars and save some money!:/
I'm currently running a Scott's damper on my 23 Husqvarna TE300. Raised the bar height way too much I think. I already had the Scott's damper, so I went with the BRP mounts. But now that I'm getting more experienced with the sport (off road Enduro racing) Mako mounts seem to be much more popular. I don't live in Southern California anymore, I'm in the southeast where everything is super tight single track in deep woods. Most people don't run a steering damper. I was thinking about ditching the steering damper and going with a low Mako mount...OR trying to find a ultra low bar (22mm he said) with my current setup. Are the 22mm rise bars still available?
I'm 6'3" long and lankey, I'm using lower pegs which helps some, but I don't want to run a tall seat. I think lowering the bars as much as possible with help, because at the moment I don't like how the front end feels. The stock WP Xplor forks sucked, so I had a local guy replace the cartridges with another kit. I'm not fast enough to justify spending $4k+ yet... Maybe I will in the future. I come from roadracing and understand spending several thousand on Ohlins suspension for example means everything. Any recommendations on offroad suspension brands/kits?
The part that transformed my riding more than anything is a 2024 250 XCW, all stock, except the #1 gripper seat cover.
Agreed with your suggestions. A more expensive part/change I’ve found made the most difference in my confidence/speed/results was suspension on my 2021 300 XCW. But lever and fastest pegs were big helps as well. Love the videos and see you at races. Keep it up!
What kind of suspension adjustments did you make? I feel like sometimes I struggle with my 2020 stink bugging and pulling me forward.
Great info. Check out the carapac pegs, I put them on my 25 Sherco, 5mm back and 5mm lower. I'm 6' and I've never had a bike that going from sitting to standing to be so easy. I also have the Mako. The oem bars are pretty low so I'm leaving them. It hasn't rained in about 6 months here in the SW and it's unbelievable how how well this bike turns and hooks up on our marble covered concrete. Love this bike. Arc's are the best. Good luck on the 4S.
Ohhhh, will do! I was looking for other pegs to mention but didn’t have a good one. Thanks for offering up a recommendation! 🤘🏻🤙🏻⚡️ REALLY hoping to get on a 2025!!
Thanks for the suggestions, and the explanations.
You got it, thanks for watching! 🤘🏻🤙🏻⚡️
I have been wanting to try the R-duro levers. I do have arm pump early on. I found with enduros I was always better after gas once the arm pump disappeared. I thin the R-duro thing might help. I felt one, not sure how that would play with slipping the clutch. It does have a breakover point where it gets easier. I have a under mount damper with the Mako. Using the stock nekken bars. I have thought about a flatter bar to compensate. I didn't know that protaper actually made one. My have to give that whirl before swapping out levers. In my 50s and pretty resided that I'm never going pro, but being a better rider is never a bad thing ;-)
Did you go for the aluminum or the "memlon" ARCs?
I've had my "memlon" ARCs on for about a year and a half, and I like everything about them except that as I'm working on some slightly more advanced techniques, which require both throttle and front brake at the same time, the flex of the brake lever is starting to bug me. Reason is that I have to run the dead position a bit further from the bar than I'd like in order to be able to apply enough pressure on the lever to lock the front wheel, since that pressure is enough to flex the lever 1/4" or so. Granted this is with a Braktec front brake on a GasGas, which isn't as grabby as the Brembo.
Aluminum, I wanted to try the "normal" levers before getting any of the other features/options, etc.
For the front brake pressure, have you tried running the lever perch in on the handlebar a tad more and then adjusting lever reach? This could possibly give you more leverage on the lever itself.
@@SeatTime yep, I run my levers pretty far in so I can get more leverage. Pretty much to the point where I can just get my pointer figure on the end of the lever comfortably + a little bit in case I need to use two fingers. A really good rider recommended it years ago, and I'm amazed with how much difference it made to hand fatigue. So leverage isn't really an issue, it's the resting position I have to run the levers at and where the engagement needs to start. Both are about 1/4" further out than I run on my KTM with stock aluminum levers. Not a problem in regular riding/enduro, but for some hard enduro trickery it becomes a bit harder, since I don't have the longest fingers (wear "M" sized gloves typically).
I'm going to give the aluminum ARC a try I think, even though I have been liking the temperature consistency of the plastic ones.
Great video and tips! Im looking for a little advice on my bar set up on my FE350. Iv got 250+ hours on the bike, all with the mentioned fastaway drop/back pegs and tusk 15mm bar risers. As I have raced more and gotten more confident with aggressive riding, Im looking to get more handling aggression back out of the bike as its very tame and "easy to drive" at the moment. The stock bars are Pro-taper's with a 80mm height (+15mm so 95mm total). Im thinking of removing the 15mm risers as a starting place to get more over the front end and get more steering bite. Maybe better climbing ability too? When you mentioned 35mm and even 22mm bars, your multiple inches lower than my current set up, thats a lot! Im 6 feet tall and feel comfortable on the bike. Do you think removing the riser will have a noticeable feel and should I try a lower bend? Maybe the bar mount on the Sherco itself is higher then the KTM/Husky. Thanks!
As someone who is tall (6ft 6in) you’re very wrong.😂 it makes them very twitchy when you put big risers in your bars. Personally I run odi 828 rolled forward some and that’s it.
When you talk it’s almost hard not to end up to far over bike. I have to remind myself to stay loose, hang my ass off the back and use my long legs to my advantage.
Suspension and tires are the only thing I’ve ever seen make a difference in speed. Everything else I can get used to in a couple minutes.
Astra don't produce that bend anymore.... so I believe the lowest version will be the Jarvis at 27mm
Yup, that's why I had to get the Gemini 27mm bend for the next build.
I'm guessing you're going to get one of Cody Webb's bikes.......??