What I did not realise until I carried out my first ICP test was that home test kits only measure one type of PO4, whereas ICP detects total phosphate. I think your coral colours indicate how the tank is getting on wrt PO4/NO3, they are lovely. I have gone off the idea of rowaphos, its good at what it does, too good sometimes. I carbon dose now which keeps my NO3 in check and provides bacteria for the corals to consume. I occasionally use Phosphate RX to reduce the PO4. I use to chase the nutrients, but I come around to thinking that KH/salinity is more important to keep stable?
I00%, I am the same salinity and Alk weekly most important elements. I started carbon dosing and it fuels the Cyanobacteria, once I got that out I will continue with that and lanthanum to reduce po4. Thanks Jules.
Not sure, it’s got to be weeks tho no real rush to get it back down the system has been running like this for years, I have some carbon as well but can’t start dosing that until got rid of the Cyanobacteria.
You should get hanna HR checker for nitrate and the Hanna phosphate LR tester , much better for testing , always in line with my icp test , as long as you follow their instructions to the letter . I have the kH checker as well for alk , then use Red Sea for cal and mag
@@Taity1972I was thinking about Hanna testers, I have thrown those 2 test kits in the bin as they are pointless, the ICP was so good and I got the results back very quickly I might just do those every 3/4 months and just watch the corals and Cyanobacteria to tell me where am at.
@ I send my icp off every 2/3 months , I run sps tank . My phos is steady at 0.04 and nitrate at 5ppm , but I have to dose nitrate sometimes. If you get the Hanna , get the ones I said , as do two types off each , and the other ones aren’t that good , also Hanna cal is waste off time as well .
I don’t, once my tds fall to below 5 I switch it to come back through the Di pod and into the brute bin, my water is bad and don’t want that going straight in the di pod, the other line is the kalwasser going to the house.
I see what you mean it does like like that but I have another t just before the blue valve that sends the water back under the membrane and into the Di pod.
Very informative video! Thanks
Thank you
Great video
Thank you
I always use Salifert test kit for testing Po4 and No3. It seems more accurate than other brands.
You’re right, I’m going back to salifert as they seem to be more accurate and easier to read.
Your corals look great be careful not too drop it too fast
Thanks for the tip, I will go slow.
What I did not realise until I carried out my first ICP test was that home test kits only measure one type of PO4, whereas ICP detects total phosphate. I think your coral colours indicate how the tank is getting on wrt PO4/NO3, they are lovely. I have gone off the idea of rowaphos, its good at what it does, too good sometimes. I carbon dose now which keeps my NO3 in check and provides bacteria for the corals to consume. I occasionally use Phosphate RX to reduce the PO4. I use to chase the nutrients, but I come around to thinking that KH/salinity is more important to keep stable?
I00%, I am the same salinity and Alk weekly most important elements. I started carbon dosing and it fuels the Cyanobacteria, once I got that out I will continue with that and lanthanum to reduce po4. Thanks Jules.
How long do you think the bio media will take to colonise and be effective at reducing nitrates?
Not sure, it’s got to be weeks tho no real rush to get it back down the system has been running like this for years, I have some carbon as well but can’t start dosing that until got rid of the Cyanobacteria.
You should get hanna HR checker for nitrate and the Hanna phosphate LR tester , much better for testing , always in line with my icp test , as long as you follow their instructions to the letter . I have the kH checker as well for alk , then use Red Sea for cal and mag
@@Taity1972I was thinking about Hanna testers, I have thrown those 2 test kits in the bin as they are pointless, the ICP was so good and I got the results back very quickly I might just do those every 3/4 months and just watch the corals and Cyanobacteria to tell me where am at.
@ I send my icp off every 2/3 months , I run sps tank . My phos is steady at 0.04 and nitrate at 5ppm , but I have to dose nitrate sometimes.
If you get the Hanna , get the ones I said , as do two types off each , and the other ones aren’t that good , also Hanna cal is waste off time as well .
Awesome thank you for the advice.
Why do you have your good water tee’ing into the waste water?
I don’t, once my tds fall to below 5 I switch it to come back through the Di pod and into the brute bin, my water is bad and don’t want that going straight in the di pod, the other line is the kalwasser going to the house.
I see what you mean it does like like that but I have another t just before the blue valve that sends the water back under the membrane and into the Di pod.
I see it now. 👍