Rule 1 applies both ways: count 'em as much as you like! Seriously though, attention to detail on a channel of the quality of yours is important. Your superpower however, is to do it without either losing the fun factor or berating people who don't count rivets/airbrush TOPS codes on hopper wagons!@ChadwickModelRailway
Rivet Counters are a rare breed inhabiting model railway layouts and flourish in conditions of temperate climates, including lofts, spare rooms, sheds and garages. They now have protection status under The National Rivet Council, of Rivet Counters.
Another great video - you inspired me to buy an Eclipse airbrush during lockdown when I started modeling again after 40 years! I do however believe that Bauxite paint is Bauxite paint (so long as it has not been 're-mixed' by anyone) - it's the colour of Iron Oxide - it was cheap, and works as a primer on steel, so no complex paint jobs required - just use the steel direct from the supplier - already primed! To that end, I just use good old Halfords Iron Oxide Primer (over the top of their plastic primer. Proper job!
Breaking news from Somerset! Man sprays model in private dwelling as a nosy neighbour calls the Police! :) Brilliant stuff yet again mate. I have sprayed hundreds, if not thousands of model buses or other vehicles but still get nervous about railway items, especially if they are a commission job. Just a suggestion those wagon cradles Charlie, I would start with Halfords "rust red" primer and over-spray with a silk finish clear coat.
¡Hola buenas tardes Charlie! Great presentation, as always and, some useful tips for new airbrush users. One little point, wearing protective gloves shouldn’t be confined to the actual spraying process - you probably had ten times as much covering your bare hands than you protected in the first place🤪 Grizzle over! I can also add my endorsement to the suggestion of @StBlazeyModelWorld of the use of Halfords Red Oxide spray primer for the BR bauxite brown. Used this on many of my rolling stock and they do look very effective. Looking forward to seeing the scenic updates next week. Un saludo. Gary
Hi Charlie….l am enjoying your airbrush videos ,a wee tip if you tint the primer to a similar shade to the colour your using it will save time and paint,it will cover quicker . Also ,I realise airbrush’s don’t use particularly high pressure,but it isn’t a good idea to put your finger over the end.just in case someone had a cut or something it could cause an issue.
I agree with the suggestion to use Halfords Red Oxide primer. It is quite bright for the first few days it is applied but dulls down after a few weeks.
You yesshouldonebuyenginewashedifwevegonetothtroubleofwestheringour rollingstock althoughitsveryrareyogotcleaneindowsonstrain itsrareyougetcleaneindowsonatrain😮
I like the instruction for airbrushing the rolling stock as well as showing the tools you made to handle the parts. Genius! I also like how you rolled right into cleaning the airbrush even though you gave great instruction on a previous video. It really cements in the process for me. I really appreciate your instructive style of video production. Thanks so much!
Hi Charlie great video love watching you,with cleaning the air brush when you come to taking the needle out you should push it forward to stop any paint being pull back into the air brush take the jet off first,I work in a airbrush company hope this helps
I have some of the Hornbyk HAA MGR Coal hoppers, some 'new' (well new a few years back) some pre love/owned/seconed hand) ones, some of the have/had the older style large tension lock couplings, and some with the smaller ones. As I had some smaller couplings from a set by Bachmann, I super glued them in place of the bigger couplings, and have a couple of converter wagons, and I am rather happy with them. Yes they could be lifted up with some weathering. But I am not one for investing in a airbrush that I might not get much use if any out of, as I could invest the cost in say a new Class 31. or something. But watching your videos is always good, and we all learn something from them!
Very interesting Charlie . Just for your interest I wouldn't get to hung up on the difference in colours of the hoppers .My late uncle worked for BREL in Glasgow in the paint shop .You'd be amazed at the variations in liveries on locos in the 70/80's . BR blue locos were different hues of blue depending on the manufacturer of paint . A loco could be different colours on each side . It wasn't unknown for different paints to be mixed together to save money and time . Loved the rivet counting are you going to the dark side 🤣🤣🤣
Hello Charlie, Loved the video thank you. We all scour TH-cam at various times, in one on Air Brushing etc a piece of a advice was given, when cleaning try to never pull the needle out backwards as there is the potential to drag unwanted paint through the seals and into none paint areas of the brush. Thought you may be interested, cant remember where or who gave said advice but it does have a logic to it. Mike
To test your colour mix, spray it onto plastic spoons before you spray it onto your model. Keep a record of the paint numbers and the number of drops used in each mix so you have the recipe to mix the same shade on a different day.
Charlie, thanks for your video. There must be paint in the seals of the brush because there was some silver paint on the needle after withdrawal. The series of airbrush videos from Utube 'scale model Workshop is the best I have found anywhere, and he treats this topic, including the often recommended practice of 'backflushing' the brush during cleaning and to unblock whilst destroying a model. I don't want to say too much more because lack of models being finished means I am out of practissssse. Yes: for me it's a verb.
Hi again Charlie Have no real intention to paint but love the video. Just good to watch someone so well organised. Do enjoy extra episodes On the Off week. Thanks for your efforts. Stay safe. Howard
Thank you so much for going through the cleaning steps. That's now much less intimidating, and I'll be using this video for a reference (with some changes to the materials as I'm across the pond). Anyway, much appreciated, and have a wonderful week! ~Maarten
Comment from Shildon on the eve of the 40th anniversary of the closure of Shildon BREL Wagon Works where a significant number of the MGR (hi-cap) wagons were built. Those rivets are not true rivets, but are a propriety fastener called a Hook bolt (pronounced huk) they were used extensively in MGR construction. It was a round headed bolt with concentric rings at the end where a plain round cap was cold pressed on, making the bolt fill the hole in the sheeting and concentric rings clamp the cap.
Another cracking video Charlie. I've never tried airbrushing but with your knowledge of different devices and tips you shared previously I might just give it a go at some point after a lot of practice of course. It looks very easy to get it wrong. Cleaning the airbrush is clearly paramount to be with half a chance of not ruining the airbrush as you mention. Many thanks for sharing.
Always enjoy your videos. Ah new room for videoing in, or is this another part of the model railway room. So much paint choices to attempt; hope they do offer the paint names they used on their production models….life would become so much simpler. Always a joy to watch and learn from; even the simplest of things which one would never of thought of. Thankyou charlie; looking forward to seeing the final result in time. All best Marc from Leighton Buzzard
What a coincidence: at about 3pm today, I was discussing the re-painting of a few HAA-type hopper cradles into Railfreight red from various other colours in order for them to look uniform in the rake. And lo & behold, your video has arrived! This will be my first attempt using an airbrush, so thanks very much for this mini-series.
Charlie, thank you, great finish up to the Airbrush series. I find it hard to match colours too, mixing to get a colour is so hard, when you can get a tin or jar of the right colour, it is so much easier. I am please you are all thumbs like me with small bits, I think it is a sign of old age. Cheers, stay safe, and thank you for sharing, Michael
Thanks Charlie! I figure someday I might use a paint besides acrylic. The nice thing about right now is that thinning my Tamiya acrylic paint with IPA basically means I almost never need to clean it. If it ever gets fussy, I can just take out the front part (it's a since action Paasche and I don't feel I need anything different) and give it a quick brush to get any of the paint out of the needle and I'm good to go. Someday I'll probably have to use a different paint though of course. I really love watching you weather cars with the airbrush. That's definitely helpful for me.
fab video Charlie i have quite a few of these HAAs but i dont think i would have the patience to do what you are doing also never noticed the rivets as always very interesting to watch how things like this are done so thank you for taking the time and effort and bonus we all only have to wait a week for your next video
For me, this has been a good Introduction to Airbrushing, thank you. I have been given a 2nd hand airbrush (just the airbrush), but I see that it is a lot of work. Maybe I will try it one day, but I will have to get a compressor, mask, etc. before I do. Thank you again.
Yep painting is an art. Remember when putting layers on to match, you wont get a match until all the layers are on and dry. Because the under color ie white primer will change the mix. Good that you emphasize cleaning... CLEANING is the key to good spraying. Be regimented about your cleaning, inside and out. People will get all kinds of issues with the craft, not understanding that the passages have to be clean and open to allow the paint to atomize and laydown correctly. Nice Series mate.
Another useful video Charlie, thanks. When you come to weather the wagons don’t forget that the load/unload points used old car tyres against the hopper bodies to settle them and get their speed. You can often see the pair of tracks going horizontally across the wagons in photos. You can mimic it using an old dinky car and your weathering wash. And two points of order that blue wipe is called dairy wipe down our way and the police siren is known as “the anthem of Yeovil”.
Thanks Simon, for an excellent comment. I’ve watched many videos regarding MGR unloading, and I’ve never seen the tyre method used. I can only suggest that the tyre marks are caused at the loading end. Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie, There is an international colour chart known as “RAL” and it will allow you to match any existing colour. Perhaps that would help matching. Deluxe also do an extensive professional colour chart which is obtainable from a Dulux decorators centre. Hope that helps. Steve.
Hi Charlie many years ago I saw a chap mixing paint in the tin like you, he had a spare tinlet lid with a central hole in it with a diameter just slightly larger than the shaft of the mixing tool. Kept the paint in the tin but of course it will require cleaning between colours. 👍
Hi Charlie, Another great video once again. I liked the idea of the crib board but i thought it would be better with a thin wooden base to stop the skewer sticks falling through. Cheers Ken
I learned at an airbrush workshop to put the needle from the front into te pistol.This to avoid damaging the point off the needle by pussing it from the backside trough de the pistol. Nice videos!!
I was told the same at a Workshop. I mentioned it to a retailer who recommended NOT to do that as it can damage the fine nozzle screw fitting. He said his sales of spare nozzles had gone up but with simple cleaning it just wasn't necessary. Doing as Chadwick does should be sufficient.
Structural steel is often coated with red oxide primer and its possible that the steel frames of the wagons were too. You can get it in aerosols for use in car bodywork. ( I have no knowledge of model railways but enjoy your videos! )
This series brings back memories... I also used to dabble with painting models and figurines for friends and their acquaintances, many of whom were avid war gamers. All experts in their fields... just ask them... All of them who'd barely be able to agree on the colour of an orange. Their eye for detail could be just as demanding as any so to meet their expectations, I'd carry out a series of test runs for various paint types, colours and shades on test items or upon swathes, I went to the extent to ensure that those tests were carried out on items of the same materials as the intended subjects. I found that these aspects had an effect on the end result. Only when those results met with their expectation, would I start on the actual subjects of their desire. Seeing as it's your intention to repaint these hoppers anyway, couldn't that extra line of rivets be sanded down beforehand?There you are... lightly sanded, subtly adjusted, period appropriate rolling stock... only you would know... Charlie's Happy again?😁
I don't work for either company, but I'm a hardware store paint dept manager, the target cradle color almost looks like it's a combination of the phoenix and humbrol colors
Thanks Charlie, you have explained air brushing really well, and at some point I will have to invest in them. Until then, all my money will be in cotton buds and blue towel, since I think those businesses are about to have a boom! ;)
Enjoying your videos Charlie! My shunting layout is nowhere near as complex as yours as it's only DC but probably getting on for just as expensive haha. I did find your videos on wiring useful as it's the first proper layout I've done, at the moment I'm struggling to get some suitable legs for it as I intended to have it supported by trestles when I planned and built it.
Hi Charlie love the airbrush videos I have watched this one very closely and have noticed you start a pass before & finish the pass after the model realising this it's very similar to my car spraying regards ian
Charlie great video, Like the idea of plastic medicine cups never seen that before always used old ain’t jars but have to clear up afterwards. I also tried the automatic paint mixer but gave up as it was too messy and now use Tamiya 74017 Stainless Steel Paint Stirrers Couple of additional tips I have an old plastic tea tray with vertical edges I purchased from wilko’s and I do all my mixing and cleaning on it it which keeps the surface clean and collects any spills this can always be taken outside and washed down. best to use spray cans of primer outside and most people seem to use Halfords grey or (white when spraying yellow or light colours) When using spray cans I always spray outside as you did and if windy spray in my wheelie bin, open the lid and hold it inside the bin. Always have a spare replacement needle not expensive and you never know when you need one. I wouldn’t use cotton buds but have an old 1/2 paintbrush I can use but normally air brush cleaner is sufficient to remove everything I always wear gloves when spraying handling models and cleaning up
Another really interesting video Charlie! Only this week I was using my Iwata eclipse without the cup cover and got fine ballast in it. Don’t ask, just don’t!
Hi Charlie, enamel vs acrylic paint. I thought you might like to know that Valejo has a range of acrylic paint called Mecha Color. This range is apparently harder wearing than the model air range, I have bought 2 bottles to try. I've also found that repainting wagons in precision late BR bauxite does not match any of my bauxite wagons from various manufacturers.
I reckon Tamiya red brown straight out of a rattle can would be close to the colour you need. I find Tamiya spray paints perfect for most broad colour applications and fine tune tones later with the weathering method of choice.
I think you should have gone with the first red and then painted the acurascal the same or left it as it was as red fades and in a rake of wagons there would be several shades of the same colour. My thoughts only of course. Also I would use a black primer as you would get better shadow tones.
Hi Charlie, I believe the early Hop A colour should indeed be "freight brown" rather than the later colour which got progressively more red until the rail freight red came in. I've not given it a go yet but I have 20 of the newer Hornby Haa I'm hoping to back date (might remove the rivets might not) and paint using rail match 235 freight brown. With a healthy airbrush of black weathering and frame dirt the colour will be hardy visible anyway
Hi was watching a you tube video like you do just one of your great quotes and it was about the class 13 which l think you have at chadwick and it was carrying out it’s duties for the day at Tinsley yard not far from where l live in Sheffield and as the narrator said in his Yorkshire accent then it was up T ‘top shed l think it was in the 70’s 80’s great of days shunting class 37’s taking their loads class 76’s joining the Woodhead line from Tinsley marshalling yards great days for trains when we were kids hope l have’nt dirupted your Sunday anyway take care mate have a nice day Best wishes Kev Beighton Parkway
I wouldn't get too involved in trying to match your colour to the Accurascale one,no two wagons were exactly the same shade.I'm currently doing some Dapol plastic kits wagons using Railmatch Bauxite,I've got two bottles yet both are a different shade.
Have you tried Railmatch 235 BR Bauxite or 236 BR late Bauxite? I use Railmatch enamel paint Charlie it's good quality paint. There's also a really handy gadget for mixing paint. It's a magnetic base onto which you put your plastic cup with your paint and thinners in. Then you drop in a steel bar and turn on the magnet. The magnet spins the bar and mixes it all together, no mess. I do love a gadget. Portable Magnetic Paint Mixer MS-01 DSPIAE Scale Model Shop. £17.99
Charlie, great video as always. I am a scale modeller as well as a railway modeller, and extra rviets is a common thing and removing the rivets from the more modern wagons is not hard. Either use a straight edge razor blade or a modelling chisel. Are you are repainting them, anyway, they will look fine,
Hi Charlie. Really useful video (again). I'm intrigued by the clamp you use to hold the inside of the HAA. Is it a self-build thing? I can't find the item on your listing. TIA.
Great video again. It's annoying when the colours aren't quite right, but then again some heavy weathering can cover a mutitude of sins. Coal hoppers were never the cleanest rolling stock for obvious reasons.😀You could always try Railmatch's BR Early Freight Stock bauxite - Railmatch 2323.
I wonder if a red oxide primer would give you a closer match in the final colour? Though I must admit to not being overly impressed by Precision colours, though that maybe due to my eyesight!
Just a suggestion Charlie, save yourself cleaning your bench by spreading a sheet or two of the blue roll before opening the tin or pouring stuff. Bound to be drips if my bench is anything to go by!
I agree. It's worth a try as it will make the top colour darker. As suggested in another comment, testing on the back of a plastic spoon using the grey primer is worth a go. John
Great video Charlie with lots of good advice. Can I ask where you got the metal holder that clamps inside the wagon or loco bodies? I’ve been searching for years for one. Thanks
@@ChadwickModelRailway I should have said when I was painting 16 ton minerals, I started off with rust, before painting with the next coat. I would sometimes put salt crystals before the top coat.. When dry, I would take the salt out exposing rust underneath. When not satisfied with the result, I later on dabbed rust powder.
Great video. It spooked me a little bit as you know I have these kind of hoppers in N scale by Graham Farish. I have 18 in total 4 which came weathered from new. 5 came with tops which I removed to try and match up the rake. I have never look at the labels in great detail before but after watching this video I am a little confused as some of mine say HAA and some say HFA any ideas what the difference is Charlie and any idea of time of use please. They two some have the line of rivets and some without.
Hi Charlie i hope you get a reply for your paint colour as those two examples were way of. will you be doing any weathering in the future on your channel . great video thank you.
Rest assured Tony, I will get this colour right. I will certainly do more airbrush videos as the channel requires it, both for rolling stock and scenery. Regards Charlie.
Nice video Charlie! I might be jumping ahead a bit, but a question came up while You sprayed over the decals... How do You produce new decals with The correcto lettering once The wagons are properly painted and rebuilt?
Well, it's obvious what's wanted for the color is Floquil--so much for that. You might try IJN Hull Red--but, I'm flat guessing here as monitors all vary, video renders differently, and perceptions of color are all individual.
What an excellent and informative Video, mind I remember back along you used to recommend Airbrushes that used separate Paint Reservoirs as you explained that the Reservoir on the Airbrush was too small or do you only use this Type for small precision Jobs?
@@ChadwickModelRailwaythank you Charlie, sorry to appear pedantic but following your Recommendation I checked Amazon and they have a Iwata Medea Revolution HP BCR Set Dual Action/Bottle Feed.....would I be correct in assuming that this is the Model you are referring to?
@@ChadwickModelRailwayThank you Charlie, so kind of you to reply to my other Question when if I'd used my Brain I should have checked the 'See more Tab' which I eventually did. However, I'll take your Advice and go for the Eclipse. Best Wishes.
Oh my God , you've become a rivet counter 😄
Rest assured Bob, I’ll get over it. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'll bet you don't. Now where's my fly-spray.
Rule 1 applies both ways: count 'em as much as you like! Seriously though, attention to detail on a channel of the quality of yours is important. Your superpower however, is to do it without either losing the fun factor or berating people who don't count rivets/airbrush TOPS codes on hopper wagons!@ChadwickModelRailway
@@stephendavies6949 that’s very kind Stephen. Regards, Charlie.
Rivet Counters are a rare breed inhabiting model railway layouts and flourish in conditions of temperate climates, including lofts, spare rooms, sheds and garages. They now have protection status under The National Rivet Council, of Rivet Counters.
Hi Charlie. I don't have an airbrush. But Iwata is the one I always wanted. Your video was so very informative. Thank you.
Dave Farrell.
Thanks Dave, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.
Another great video - you inspired me to buy an Eclipse airbrush during lockdown when I started modeling again after 40 years! I do however believe that Bauxite paint is Bauxite paint (so long as it has not been 're-mixed' by anyone) - it's the colour of Iron Oxide - it was cheap, and works as a primer on steel, so no complex paint jobs required - just use the steel direct from the supplier - already primed! To that end, I just use good old Halfords Iron Oxide Primer (over the top of their plastic primer. Proper job!
Thanks, Clive, for an excellent comment. Regards charlie.
Breaking news from Somerset! Man sprays model in private dwelling as a nosy neighbour calls the Police! :) Brilliant stuff yet again mate. I have sprayed hundreds, if not thousands of model buses or other vehicles but still get nervous about railway items, especially if they are a commission job. Just a suggestion those wagon cradles Charlie, I would start with Halfords "rust red" primer and over-spray with a silk finish clear coat.
So glad you enjoyed it, Roger, and thanks for the great tips. Regards, Charlie.
¡Hola buenas tardes Charlie! Great presentation, as always and, some useful tips for new airbrush users. One little point, wearing protective gloves shouldn’t be confined to the actual spraying process - you probably had ten times as much covering your bare hands than you protected in the first place🤪 Grizzle over! I can also add my endorsement to the suggestion of @StBlazeyModelWorld of the use of Halfords Red Oxide spray primer for the BR bauxite brown. Used this on many of my rolling stock and they do look very effective. Looking forward to seeing the scenic updates next week. Un saludo. Gary
Hi Charlie….l am enjoying your airbrush videos ,a wee tip if you tint the primer to a similar shade to the colour your using it will save time and paint,it will cover quicker .
Also ,I realise airbrush’s don’t use particularly high pressure,but it isn’t a good idea to put your finger over the end.just in case someone had a cut or something it could cause an issue.
I agree with the suggestion to use Halfords Red Oxide primer. It is quite bright for the first few days it is applied but dulls down after a few weeks.
You yesshouldonebuyenginewashedifwevegonetothtroubleofwestheringour rollingstock althoughitsveryrareyogotcleaneindowsonstrain itsrareyougetcleaneindowsonatrain😮
I like the instruction for airbrushing the rolling stock as well as showing the tools you made to handle the parts. Genius! I also like how you rolled right into cleaning the airbrush even though you gave great instruction on a previous video. It really cements in the process for me. I really appreciate your instructive style of video production. Thanks so much!
Thanks mate, it’s comments such as yours that make it all worthwhile. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie great video love watching you,with cleaning the air brush when you come to taking the needle out you should push it forward to stop any paint being pull back into the air brush take the jet off first,I work in a airbrush company hope this helps
Thanks, Roger, for some sound advice. Regards, Charlie.
It's a good day when a Chadwick video pops up. Charlie, you're the best! (USA)
That’s very kind of you to say so Chris. Regards, Charlie.
As per normal Charlie, absolutely clear, precise, and to the point. What is really good is, no ums and rs.
Thanks Denzil, that’s most kind.
Regards Charlie
Yet another great video Charlie. Thanks again.
Thanks, John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.
Many thanks Charlie for the mini series. Feel much more confident about using mine now 👍👍👍
Thanks Redbank, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards, Charlie.
I have some of the Hornbyk HAA MGR Coal hoppers, some 'new' (well new a few years back) some pre love/owned/seconed hand) ones, some of the have/had the older style large tension lock couplings, and some with the smaller ones. As I had some smaller couplings from a set by Bachmann, I super glued them in place of the bigger couplings, and have a couple of converter wagons, and I am rather happy with them. Yes they could be lifted up with some weathering. But I am not one for investing in a airbrush that I might not get much use if any out of, as I could invest the cost in say a new Class 31. or something. But watching your videos is always good, and we all learn something from them!
Thanks Mike, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Good luck with your HAA fleet regards Charlie.
Very interesting Charlie . Just for your interest I wouldn't get to hung up on the difference in colours of the hoppers .My late uncle worked for BREL in Glasgow in the paint shop .You'd be amazed at the variations in liveries on locos in the 70/80's . BR blue locos were different hues of blue depending on the manufacturer of paint . A loco could be different colours on each side . It wasn't unknown for different paints to be mixed together to save money and time . Loved the rivet counting are you going to the dark side 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks David, for an interesting comment. Do you think the dark side is beckoning me? Regards Charlie.
Another EXCELLENT Video Charlie…… You’re a NATURAL😇
Thanks David, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Belated thanks for the final installment in this enjoyable and informative series!
Thanks James, I’m so pleased that you found them interesting.
Regards Charlie
Hello Charlie,
Loved the video thank you.
We all scour TH-cam at various times, in one on Air Brushing etc a piece of a advice was given, when cleaning try to never pull the needle out backwards as there is the potential to drag unwanted paint through the seals and into none paint areas of the brush.
Thought you may be interested, cant remember where or who gave said advice but it does have a logic to it.
Mike
You are of course right Mike, but some airbrushes you cannot pull the needle out of the front. Regards, Charlie.
To test your colour mix, spray it onto plastic spoons before you spray it onto your model. Keep a record of the paint numbers and the number of drops used in each mix so you have the recipe to mix the same shade on a different day.
Now that’s an excellent point, Steve. Regards, Charlie.
Great little mini series. Thanks Charlie 👍
ThanksJeff, I’m so pleased that you found them interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, thanks for your video.
There must be paint in the seals of the brush because there was some silver paint on the needle after withdrawal. The series of airbrush videos from Utube 'scale model Workshop is the best I have found anywhere, and he treats this topic, including the often recommended practice of 'backflushing' the brush during cleaning and to unblock whilst destroying a model. I don't want to say too much more because lack of models being finished means I am out of practissssse. Yes: for me it's a verb.
Thanks for your advice, Peter, I shall certainly check out his videos. Regards, Charlie.
Another good "how to" video, Charlie! I'm a big fan of Burnt Umber! The universal murky brown!
An excellent preference KV, regards Charlie
Not a participant in the hobby, Charlie, but always enjoy watching your videos (Melbourne, AU).
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you find my videos entertaining. Regards, Charlie.
Hi again Charlie
Have no real intention to paint but love the video.
Just good to watch someone so well organised.
Do enjoy extra episodes On the Off week.
Thanks for your efforts.
Stay safe.
Howard
Thanks Howard, it’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Thank you so much for going through the cleaning steps. That's now much less intimidating, and I'll be using this video for a reference (with some changes to the materials as I'm across the pond). Anyway, much appreciated, and have a wonderful week! ~Maarten
Thanks MMS, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards, Charlie.
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Comment from Shildon on the eve of the 40th anniversary of the closure of Shildon BREL Wagon Works where a significant number of the MGR (hi-cap) wagons were built.
Those rivets are not true rivets, but are a propriety fastener called a Hook bolt (pronounced huk) they were used extensively in MGR construction. It was a round headed bolt with concentric rings at the end where a plain round cap was cold pressed on, making the bolt fill the hole in the sheeting and concentric rings clamp the cap.
Wow, Colin, thanks for the great info. Regards, Charlie.
You have all the Gizzmoes there charlie that paint stirring thing 🤪is great
I don’t know how I’ve done without it for so long. Regards, Charlie.
Another cracking video Charlie. I've never tried airbrushing but with your knowledge of different devices and tips you shared previously I might just give it a go at some point after a lot of practice of course. It looks very easy to get it wrong. Cleaning the airbrush is clearly paramount to be with half a chance of not ruining the airbrush as you mention. Many thanks for sharing.
ThanksAnthony, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Looking forward too seeing you and The West Camel Team,Hopefully we'll miss the Glastonbury Traffic
Yes, you will miss the festival traffic. They will all be there by Friday night.
Regards Charlie.
Always enjoy your videos. Ah new room for videoing in, or is this another part of the model railway room. So much paint choices to attempt; hope they do offer the paint names they used on their production models….life would become so much simpler. Always a joy to watch and learn from; even the simplest of things which one would never of thought of. Thankyou charlie; looking forward to seeing the final result in time. All best Marc from Leighton Buzzard
Thanks Marc, I’m so pleased that you found the video enjoyable. Stay safe, regards Charlie.
What a coincidence: at about 3pm today, I was discussing the re-painting of a few HAA-type hopper cradles into Railfreight red from various other colours in order for them to look uniform in the rake. And lo & behold, your video has arrived!
This will be my first attempt using an airbrush, so thanks very much for this mini-series.
Thanks Stephen, and good luck with your project. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie, thank you, great finish up to the Airbrush series. I find it hard to match colours too, mixing to get a colour is so hard, when you can get a tin or jar of the right colour, it is so much easier.
I am please you are all thumbs like me with small bits, I think it is a sign of old age.
Cheers, stay safe, and thank you for sharing, Michael
Thanks Michael, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Yes, clumsiness comes with age I believe. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie! I figure someday I might use a paint besides acrylic. The nice thing about right now is that thinning my Tamiya acrylic paint with IPA basically means I almost never need to clean it. If it ever gets fussy, I can just take out the front part (it's a since action Paasche and I don't feel I need anything different) and give it a quick brush to get any of the paint out of the needle and I'm good to go. Someday I'll probably have to use a different paint though of course.
I really love watching you weather cars with the airbrush. That's definitely helpful for me.
Thanks Andrew, even though our techniques are different, we all are here to learn. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks, Charlie. Learned a lot. Glad you are feeling better.
Thanks Trevor, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
fab video Charlie i have quite a few of these HAAs but i dont think i would have the patience to do what you are doing also never noticed the rivets as always very interesting to watch how things like this are done so thank you for taking the time and effort and bonus we all only have to wait a week for your next video
I’m so pleased you enjoyed that video.
Rivets and all! Regards, Charlie
Fantastic video Charlie. Thanks for going into the great detail. Roy.
Thanks Roy, much appreciated.
Regards Charlie
For me, this has been a good Introduction to Airbrushing, thank you. I have been given a 2nd hand airbrush (just the airbrush), but I see that it is a lot of work. Maybe I will try it one day, but I will have to get a compressor, mask, etc. before I do. Thank you again.
Come on MM, give it a go.
Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie . Keep them coming mate. Always a pleasure and an inspiration to get me motivated an my layout .
Thanks Rodney, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie.
Yep painting is an art. Remember when putting layers on to match, you wont get a match until all the layers are on and dry. Because the under color ie white primer will change the mix. Good that you emphasize cleaning... CLEANING is the key to good spraying. Be regimented about your cleaning, inside and out. People will get all kinds of issues with the craft, not understanding that the passages have to be clean and open to allow the paint to atomize and laydown correctly. Nice Series mate.
Thanks, Steve , I’m so pleased that we sing from the same song sheet. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks again, Charlie. Very interesting and educational. Hopefully I have learned something. - Chris
Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Another useful video Charlie, thanks. When you come to weather the wagons don’t forget that the load/unload points used old car tyres against the hopper bodies to settle them and get their speed. You can often see the pair of tracks going horizontally across the wagons in photos. You can mimic it using an old dinky car and your weathering wash. And two points of order that blue wipe is called dairy wipe down our way and the police siren is known as “the anthem of Yeovil”.
Thanks Simon, for an excellent comment. I’ve watched many videos regarding MGR unloading, and I’ve never seen the tyre method used. I can only suggest that the tyre marks are caused at the loading end. Regards Charlie.
Charlie, I’ve emailed you a couple of useful photographs.
@@simonturner5450 thanks Simon, I shall take a look in the morning. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie, I really appreciated these tutorials. It would be great to have some lessons on how to weather rolling stock. cheers, Graeme
Just as soon as I have honed my skills mate. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, There is an international colour chart known as “RAL” and it will allow you to match any existing colour. Perhaps that would help matching. Deluxe also do an extensive professional colour chart which is obtainable from a Dulux decorators centre.
Hope that helps. Steve.
Thanks, Steve, that’s most helpful. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie many years ago I saw a chap mixing paint in the tin like you, he had a spare tinlet lid with a central hole in it with a diameter just slightly larger than the shaft of the mixing tool. Kept the paint in the tin but of course it will require cleaning between colours. 👍
Thanks Colin, it must’ve been an interesting contraption. Regards, Charlie.
Wonderfully informative series. Much appreciated!
Thanks Aaron, that’s most kind. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, Another great video once again. I liked the idea of the crib board but i thought it would be better with a thin wooden base to stop the skewer sticks falling through. Cheers Ken
An excellent idea, Ken, I shall hunt down a small piece of timber. Regards, Charlie.
Really great, thank-you Charlie! Best use and cleaning I've seen, may buy an air brush now.
That’s great news, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. There are some useful links in the Show tab. Regards, Charlie.
Another informative air brush video Charlie ! Keep up the good work !
Thanks,Jeff, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.
Great Video Charlie, good luck with the paint mixing 👍
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
I learned at an airbrush workshop to put the needle from the front into te pistol.This to avoid damaging the point off the needle by pussing it from the backside trough de the pistol. Nice videos!!
Yes, that’s a good method. However, some airbrushes you can only take it out from the rear. Regards, Charlie.
I was told the same at a Workshop. I mentioned it to a retailer who recommended NOT to do that as it can damage the fine nozzle screw fitting. He said his sales of spare nozzles had gone up but with simple cleaning it just wasn't necessary. Doing as Chadwick does should be sufficient.
Hi Charlie
Thanks for the video - lots of useful information especially in respect of cleaning the airbrush.
Thanks MP, I’m so pleased that the video was useful. Regards, Charlie.
Structural steel is often coated with red oxide primer and its possible that the steel frames of the wagons were too. You can get it in aerosols for use in car bodywork. ( I have no knowledge of model railways but enjoy your videos! )
Thanks, Graham, yes I missed a trick there. Regards, Charlie.
This series brings back memories... I also used to dabble with painting models and figurines for friends and their acquaintances, many of whom were avid war gamers. All experts in their fields... just ask them... All of them who'd barely be able to agree on the colour of an orange.
Their eye for detail could be just as demanding as any so to meet their expectations, I'd carry out a series of test runs for various paint types, colours and shades on test items or upon swathes, I went to the extent to ensure that those tests were carried out on items of the same materials as the intended subjects. I found that these aspects had an effect on the end result. Only when those results met with their expectation, would I start on the actual subjects of their desire.
Seeing as it's your intention to repaint these hoppers anyway, couldn't that extra line of rivets be sanded down beforehand?There you are... lightly sanded, subtly adjusted, period appropriate rolling stock... only you would know... Charlie's Happy again?😁
Rest assured NDV, I certainly haven’t ruled out sanding down those rivets! Regards Charlie
It getting better Chas well done
Thanks, John, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
I don't work for either company, but I'm a hardware store paint dept manager, the target cradle color almost looks like it's a combination of the phoenix and humbrol colors
Thanks for your advice, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie another helpful video.
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie, you have explained air brushing really well, and at some point I will have to invest in them. Until then, all my money will be in cotton buds and blue towel, since I think those businesses are about to have a boom! ;)
Glad it was helpful Gavin, it’s an interesting skill. Regards Charlie
Enjoying your videos Charlie! My shunting layout is nowhere near as complex as yours as it's only DC but probably getting on for just as expensive haha. I did find your videos on wiring useful as it's the first proper layout I've done, at the moment I'm struggling to get some suitable legs for it as I intended to have it supported by trestles when I planned and built it.
Thanks Bill, I’m so pleased that you find the channel useful. Good luck with your project, regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie love the airbrush videos I have watched this one very closely and have noticed you start a pass before & finish the pass after the model realising this it's very similar to my car spraying regards ian
Thanks, Ian, we clearly sing from the same song sheet. Regards, Charlie.
Charlie great video, Like the idea of plastic medicine cups never seen that before always used old ain’t jars but have to clear up afterwards. I also tried the automatic paint mixer but gave up as it was too messy and now use Tamiya 74017 Stainless Steel Paint Stirrers
Couple of additional tips I have an old plastic tea tray with vertical edges I purchased from wilko’s and I do all my mixing and cleaning on it it which keeps the surface clean and collects any spills this can always be taken outside and washed down. best to use spray cans of primer outside and most people seem to use Halfords grey or (white when spraying yellow or light colours)
When using spray cans I always spray outside as you did and if windy spray in my wheelie bin, open the lid and hold it inside the bin.
Always have a spare replacement needle not expensive and you never know when you need one.
I wouldn’t use cotton buds but have an old 1/2 paintbrush I can use but normally air brush cleaner is sufficient to remove everything
I always wear gloves when spraying handling models and cleaning up
Thanks Gary, for some excellent tips. Regards Charlie.
Brilliant video Charlie
Thanks Mels, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie.
good vid on the air brushing keep up the good vids i just start air brushing my self thanks lee
Thanks Lee, I’m so pleased that you find the video useful. Regards, Charlie.
Thanks Charlie 3 Great Videos on Airbrushing
Glad you like them Colin.
Regards, Charlie
Another great and interesting video Charlie!!! Many thanks for sharing. Cheers Onno.
Thanks, Onno, I’m glad you’re still with me. Regards, Charlie.
Great video as always Charlie. Have you tried a black primer on your cradles, instead of white? That should darken the precision paint
Dua Lipa said thanks Jon, but I believe the dark red primer would have been even better.
Excellent, thanks for that Charlie.
You’re most welcome, HDP. Regards, Charlie.
Thankyou for the tips and video Charlie
Thanks Mark, you’re most welcome.
Regards Charlie ,
Another really interesting video Charlie!
Only this week I was using my Iwata eclipse without the cup cover and got fine ballast in it. Don’t ask, just don’t!
That is a shocking revelation, mate. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, enamel vs acrylic paint. I thought you might like to know that Valejo has a range of acrylic paint called Mecha Color.
This range is apparently harder wearing than the model air range, I have bought 2 bottles to try.
I've also found that repainting wagons in precision late BR bauxite does not match any of my bauxite wagons from various manufacturers.
Thanks Douglas, and it’s a shocker regarding the bauxite paint match. Regards, Charlie.
Excellent as usual Charlie , Thank you
Thanks Steven , that’s very kind of you to say so.
Nice job, there young man
Thanks, Dan, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie.
You’re too kind Dan. Regards, Charlie.
I reckon Tamiya red brown straight out of a rattle can would be close to the colour you need. I find Tamiya spray paints perfect for most broad colour applications and fine tune tones later with the weathering method of choice.
Thanks, Peter, for a useful suggestion. Regards, Charlie.
good job .clean allway best on spray guns.lats of thinners.robert.
Thanks Robert, much appreciated, regards Charlie
Hi Charlie would you please do a video on weathering a loco with a air brush.
Certainly Stephen, once I’ve learned how to do it myself! Regards Charlie
I think you should have gone with the first red and then painted the acurascal the same or left it as it was as red fades and in a rake of wagons there would be several shades of the same colour. My thoughts only of course. Also I would use a black primer as you would get better shadow tones.
Thanks, Tommo, and great tip about the shadow tones. Regards, Charlie.
The colour of the primer can massively affect the final colour maybe a dark primer then the humbrol colour might work
Mr. Short dark flight, they’ve already been re-sprayed with a dark red primer from Halfords. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie, I believe the early Hop A colour should indeed be "freight brown" rather than the later colour which got progressively more red until the rail freight red came in. I've not given it a go yet but I have 20 of the newer Hornby Haa I'm hoping to back date (might remove the rivets might not) and paint using rail match 235 freight brown. With a healthy airbrush of black weathering and frame dirt the colour will be hardy visible anyway
Many thanks, HRM, I’m on the case for the freight Brown. Regards, Charlie.
Great Charlie very informative thank you.
Thanks, Arthur, that’s most kind.
Regards Charlie
Fascinating Charlie mmm
Thanks Robert, that’s very kind. Regards, Charlie.
Hi was watching a you tube video like you do just one of your great quotes and it was about the class 13 which l think you have at chadwick and it was carrying out it’s duties for the day at Tinsley yard not far from where l live in Sheffield and as the narrator said in his Yorkshire accent then it was up T ‘top shed l think it was in the 70’s 80’s great of days shunting class 37’s taking their loads class 76’s joining the Woodhead line from Tinsley marshalling yards great days for trains when we were kids hope l have’nt dirupted your Sunday anyway take care mate have a nice day
Best wishes
Kev Beighton Parkway
An excellent comment, Kev, and many thanks for looking into your past. Fingers crossed for England, regards Charlie.
I wouldn't get too involved in trying to match your colour to the Accurascale one,no two wagons were exactly the same shade.I'm currently doing some Dapol plastic kits wagons using Railmatch Bauxite,I've got two bottles yet both are a different shade.
Rest assured Raggy, I know the feeling! Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie you know of course you can remove those unwanted rivets, just thought it was worth mentioning.
Regards
David
Indeed, I do David, but I’m not too sure how smooth the finish I get. Regards Charlie.
Have you tried Railmatch 235 BR Bauxite or 236 BR late Bauxite?
I use Railmatch enamel paint Charlie it's good quality paint.
There's also a really handy gadget for mixing paint. It's a magnetic base onto which you put your plastic cup with your paint and thinners in. Then you drop in a steel bar and turn on the magnet. The magnet spins the bar and mixes it all together, no mess. I do love a gadget.
Portable Magnetic Paint Mixer MS-01 DSPIAE
Scale Model Shop. £17.99
Many thanks 5105, for some great advice. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie! Cleaning of the airbrush is always a necessary evil but it must be done
Thanks DJ, we have to save the most arduous task until the end! Regards Charlie
Charlie, great video as always. I am a scale modeller as well as a railway modeller, and extra rviets is a common thing and removing the rivets from the more modern wagons is not hard. Either use a straight edge razor blade or a modelling chisel. Are you are repainting them, anyway, they will look fine,
An excellent suggestion, Z. Regards, Charlie.
is that a cribbage board at 2:13 haha
Good spot, Steve , regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Really useful video (again). I'm intrigued by the clamp you use to hold the inside of the HAA. Is it a self-build thing? I can't find the item on your listing. TIA.
I know that they are available from Squires Tools.com. Regards, Charlie.
Great video again. It's annoying when the colours aren't quite right, but then again some heavy weathering can cover a mutitude of sins. Coal hoppers were never the cleanest rolling stock for obvious reasons.😀You could always try Railmatch's BR Early Freight Stock bauxite - Railmatch 2323.
Thanks, John, I shall have a dig around. Regards, Charlie.
I wonder if a red oxide primer would give you a closer match in the final colour? Though I must admit to not being overly impressed by Precision colours, though that maybe due to my eyesight!
Yes Hugh. Halfords red oxide would have been a better choice.
Regards Charlie
Just a suggestion Charlie, save yourself cleaning your bench by spreading a sheet or two of the blue roll before opening the tin or pouring stuff.
Bound to be drips if my bench is anything to go by!
Rest assured Knotty, it’s a learning process for me. Regards, Charlie.
I am no airbrush expert but suggest that perhaps a grey primer may have been better than white?
I agree. It's worth a try as it will make the top colour darker. As suggested in another comment, testing on the back of a plastic spoon using the grey primer is worth a go. John
Thanks for some sound advice, gentlemen, but Halfords, also make a dark red primer. Regards, Charlie.
Frame colour looks like red lead primer ?
Yes, mate, I certainly need to do some more work on this one. Regards, Charlie.
I wouldn't be allowed to do any of that on our wagons.track and wheel cleaner is the only thing I'm trusted to do Charlie 😂😂😂😂😂❤
But who’s going to stop you, Robert? Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway everybody
Great video Charlie with lots of good advice. Can I ask where you got the metal holder that clamps inside the wagon or loco bodies? I’ve been searching for years for one. Thanks
Hi CM, I believe I bought it from Squires Tools.com. Regards, Charlie.
I hope this isn't annoying ... but I'd say Halfords 'red' primer is very very similar to bauxite.
You’re right, and certainly as an undercoat. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway It can be the final coat.
Thanks for the video. Didn't the shades of bauxite alter as it aged becoming darker over time.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it, Don. I clearly have work to do with my colour choices. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I should have said when I was painting 16 ton minerals, I started off with rust, before painting with the next coat. I would sometimes put salt crystals before the top coat.. When dry, I would take the salt out exposing rust underneath. When not satisfied with the result, I later on dabbed rust powder.
Great video. It spooked me a little bit as you know I have these kind of hoppers in N scale by Graham Farish. I have 18 in total 4 which came weathered from new. 5 came with tops which I removed to try and match up the rake. I have never look at the labels in great detail before but after watching this video I am a little confused as some of mine say HAA and some say HFA any ideas what the difference is Charlie and any idea of time of use please. They two some have the line of rivets and some without.
Hi QJ, the HFA hoppers, originally had hoods. That’s the only difference I believe. Regards, Charlie.
Hi Charlie i hope you get a reply for your paint colour as those two examples were way of. will you be doing any weathering in the future on your channel . great video thank you.
Rest assured Tony, I will get this colour right. I will certainly do more airbrush videos as the channel requires it, both for rolling stock and scenery. Regards Charlie.
I couldn't see where you got the spray boothe from.. could you enlighten please.. Great video btw!
The link is in the show more tab Roy. Regards, Charlie.
Why didn't you use IPA on a cotton bud to remove the decals? easier than respraying the whole body?
To be honest, I really didn’t know what I was doing! Regards Charlie
Nice video Charlie! I might be jumping ahead a bit, but a question came up while You sprayed over the decals... How do You produce new decals with The correcto lettering once The wagons are properly painted and rebuilt?
Hi Pablo, they’re available from the company called Railtec Transfers.
Regards Charlie
Well, it's obvious what's wanted for the color is Floquil--so much for that.
You might try IJN Hull Red--but, I'm flat guessing here as monitors all vary, video renders differently, and perceptions of color are all individual.
You’re right, the initial bauxite colour was much more red in reality. Regards, Charlie.
What an excellent and informative Video, mind I remember back along you used to recommend Airbrushes that used separate Paint Reservoirs as you explained that the Reservoir on the Airbrush was too small or do you only use this Type for small precision Jobs?
Hi Peter. My Iwata Revolution has the large attachable lower paint jar. It’s great for large jobs like track weathering.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailwaythank you Charlie, sorry to appear pedantic but following your Recommendation I checked Amazon and they have a Iwata Medea Revolution HP BCR Set Dual Action/Bottle Feed.....would I be correct in assuming that this is the Model you are referring to?
@ I have one Peter, but I think that the eclipse is better. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailwayThank you Charlie, so kind of you to reply to my other Question when if I'd used my Brain I should have checked the 'See more Tab' which I eventually did. However, I'll take your Advice and go for the Eclipse. Best Wishes.