Where to Buy Cheaper Nozzles for the Flashforge Adventurer 5M
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2024
- Buy Nozzles at AliExpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBR...
Buy Nozzles from Flashforge USA: flashforge-usa.com/collection...
Flashforge Accessory Toolbox File (Scroll down the page to find it): wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowle...
Flashforge Adventurer 5M Playlist: • Flashforge Adventurer 5M
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I too bought a new .08 nozzle from Ali which came from FlashForge China and was a great price. The issue I have is the nozzle has no profile yet for OrcaSlicer or even FlashPrint.
I would love it if you could talk through that when you get yours.
Subbed. I just tore apart a nozzle to see how hard it would be to clean one, seems like as long as you keep the heatbreak in place you can twist off the tip, just be careful not to allow the break and tip to turn together or the connections inside will seperate. But seems like it can be cleaned a little better this way. The poke that came with the machine wouldn't go all the way into the break to reach the nozzle it was so clogged, and got stuck, twisting broke the nozzle. Live and learn, but maybe we can revive old nozzles, or at the least give it life until a new one arrives. I'm going to place an order on ALI myself and get a few of these, seems like clogging is an issue with these.
Brother discovered Ali) Good job)
Thanks for the… TIP 😅
HA!
I seem to keep finding your vids, always relevant, thanks. My biggest issue with the nozzles is telling them apart (ie hardended steal, copper, etc). Maybe they don't make different types in different sizes?
I've looked around and Flashforge isn't specific about what material the nozzles are made from. They only say the 0.6 and 0.8 versions are made from hardened, high strength materials.
The two smaller sizes are stainless steel. The two larger sizes are hardened steel. Wish I could get a hardened steel 0.4 nozzle!
I'd have a fleet of the 5m If there was a 300°+ hotend. Idk why they decided to stop at 280.
I have mine ordered, not received yet, but I'd be curious if you just modify the Klipper printer.cfg file to force the temp limit to 300 C and see what breaks. I think it'd be fine in the short run but eventually the plastic casing will deteriorate. Should be fine if we can get proper silicone shoe for the nozzle. The heatsink looks a bit underwhelming as well but from 280 to 300 isn't really that big of a difference...And considering the hotend is the same to that on the Pro version, which has an enclosure which should get to at least high 50 C when printing ABS\ASA, having the open framed 5m's hotend running at 300 should do any damage to other components within the build volume. This 280 spec kinda throws me off as well but I am curious what filament do you wish to print with this machine @ 300 degree C?
Молодцом!
Спасибо!
How often are you having to change the nozzle? The cheap extruders with brass nozzles have to be changed fairly frequently. I would hope these last longer.
I haven't needed to change a nozzle yet due to wear and tear. It's hard to say how long they'll last because it depends on different factors. If you're only doing regular PLA, nozzles tend to last several months with regular printing. But if you run abrasive filaments through a non-hardened nozzle, its lifespan will be reduced.
@@FigureFeedback yeah. I keep plenty of brass nozzles around because they are so cheap. They also get clogged a lot. I’m replacing my old printers with this one, so I’m hoping for more longevity in my nozzles.
How do we use the .8 nozzle with the Adventurer 5m?
If you download the Orca-Flashforge slicer, it includes a profile for the 0.8 nozzle. Select that and you'll be good to go.
@@FigureFeedback I reinstalled it and I only found the option for .04 and .06 unfortunately
You're using Orca-Flashforge and not Orcaslicer correct? If you use Orca-Flashforge and and click on the gear icon above your printer selection, you should see options with checkboxes for all the nozzles associated with the 5M.
can just screw off the nozzle and replace the standard copper nozzle head? it must be the full module piece
No, you have to buy the full module.
Be cautious with aliexpress. I have always had terrible luck with cheap nozzles not being consistent in size and wearing out faster.
People already have Klipper (real, uncaged Klipper) running on these, so it's just a matter of time before somebody gets a different hotend solution going. While, yes, it is really neat to swap nozzles quickly, how often do you really need to do that? It's even less for me because I have two of these printers. I have a .4 on one that prints PLA, .6 PETG on the other.
I'd trade ease of swapping with lack of a need to swap, IE ruby/diamond tipped nozzles on a standard hotend of some variety, maybe Voron.
BEING I GO FROM HIGH DETAILED TO BOXES AND STUFF NOZZLE SWAP IS THE MAIN REASON I GOT
I think calling the "nozzles" is incorrect. They are actually a full hotend with nozzle, heater and cooling fins. I got to the point on my Anycubic Vyper that it was more reliable to change the whole hotend than just the nozzle. I'm good with how Flashforge handles the new hotend swap...