Thanks for showing the picture-in-picture view. As a knifesmith, I am very interested in a mid sized induction heater. It's quite useful that the current draw shows you that the steel has risen above the critical temperature.
This is actually going to be boxed up and given to my father, he also does knifesmithing in a regular coal fired furnace, so this could help him pre-heat/harden them.
Thankfully I found your channel before I started assembling my 2500 watt induction heater(I'll worry about where I'm going to find a circuit in the house to run it later;-) Many useful hints and ideas on where to look for shortcomings and how to test the assembled device. The suggestion to move the coil to the other side to avoid water damage is especially appreciated. I've been enjoying your other videos since I found this one as well! Thanks for your effort!
Worked well at 1800W but with noticeable heating of the resonant capacitors. The other test I ran for 10 minutes at 1500W did not result in continues rising temperatures of anything but the cooling water, so I assume it can run for very long times at 1500W.
Maybe not bad to replace the provided fans of the zvs-driver with ones much higher quality... The same in PCs: The normal included fans - yes hold the promise to cool the components - but do it barely. Already in summer-weather-conditions they come to its limits of cooling power easily. Therefore its really recommended, to use highest quality fans with much than enough cooling capability and right from beginning of working with the device... But really interesting device that one: I read much about these especially 1800w and didnt expect, that they reach this promised high power in continuous testing. Maybe the customers, who made bad experiences forgot the necessarity of cooling the coil, what caused device fastly to complete overheating and melt the near components to the coil... 🤔 i dont know... But yours tested in this clip surprised me really 😮👍👌
With these heaters you should try to match the original resonant frequency, you can however also lower it much more than you can raise it. If you make a coil with a smaller inductance than the original, you risk killing the MOSFETs from increased switching losses due to the higher frequency of the LC circuit.
2 things happen! You lower the resonant frequency, from the added inductance, this might affect certain materials. You add more resistance and the total impedance goes up, resonant circulating current between the work coil and resonant capacitor gets lower. Which means less heating power.
Good job, Sir. I arrived a little bit late to this forum. My questions are twofold: how do you connect the water on this experiment. (2). can I use an AC donut coil on such board to work as cooking plate. If no any idea on how to make Dc induction Cooktop DIY. Thanks
Water goes into one end of the copper tube and out the other end. There is no such thing a DC induction cooktop. They all use a high frequency current formed in a resonant circuit, you can see my analysis of a cooktop here: th-cam.com/video/xW1WtAo4E2g/w-d-xo.html
Added parts to get running well. Shame not out the box? How much hassle to get them running well. I have pc water pump radiator and fans, can put them through the tubes and pull hot air away. The added capacitors and what else?
Connecting 4 in series is the same as 3 in series, all but the one at the negative rail needs to have floating negative from their enclosure/mains earth. 4 in series can however give problems as the 48V is near the 60-63V rating of the components used, some PSUs can handle 4 in series, but you are stretching it a bit. Capacitor bank on the output is just put across positive and negative rail.
Thermal compound is always a good idea in power electronics applications, you need something to fill out those microscopic holes in heat sink and base plate of the MOSFET.
Kaizer Power Electronics do you have a video in this? This is my first time doing this. My unit also came without clips to hold down the copper spiral induction section 😡😡😂
Yes. FIrst Water itself is a really bad conductor. (in your Tub not so much because of salt from your sweat, and all the soap in there). Second, even tough you have more than 200V AC on the coil you have no problem there. You can directly touch both ends of the coil. I did it myself. the frequenzy of the voltage is arround 50khz. At those high frequenzy muscle and nerv cells are basically not receptive to the current anymore. Also there is the "skin" effect. the Higher the frequenzy the more of the current is pushed to the surface of the conductor. so most of it is carried over our dead skin layer and does not penetrate your body. wich also results in a higher resistance since our skin itself is not very conductive. At much higher Voltages it could still cause burn but not here.
Water has a high impedance at these frequencies and you can throw a grounded wire to a earth rod into the bucket/reservoir to be sure. De-mineralized water will not conduct any current due to missing minerals and salts, but only after a short while it will absorb dirt, ions and new metals/salts from electrolysis so it will behave just like regular tap water.
Yes it can, but you will most likely have a current consumption 5-6 times higher than idle, you simply put a lot of stress on MOSFETs at start-up, if you can avoid it, then do not do it :)
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk thanks for the answer, If so, what's the point from this device please ? can you think of any application other than what I mentioned ?
@@athrunzala5337 Fitting of bearings, fitting of tight tolerance metal parts, pre-heaitng before soldering, rust removal, loosing up bolts and nuts that are stuck/rusted. Melting marshmellows. Hardening of metals. Plenty of applications :) You could even use it to pre-heat before using a furnace.
Yes, due to the frequency the current will run in the outer parts of the metal bar and slowly the heat will spread to the middle as well. Look up skin effect if you want to learn more about it.
Directly heated like in this video, it can only get up to a maximum of white hot. Curie temperatures makes induction heating much less efficient, when the iron crystals starts flowing around. A crucible is needed to efficiently melt metals, or very high power induction heaters in the 5-10kW range. Work coil and load could also be optimized in this setup.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk hmmm... okay, i got you... 1. but if you turn it vertically, and put pipe in graphite crucible inside coil (graphite is conductive material) in theory it should melt that iron pipe, right? (assuming it fits inside :D ) 2. Thanks for answer.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk may i ask you one more question? I know, that more current and/or higher frequency = more heat what about capacitors and coil turns? more = better as well?
@@albin8638 more current in the LC circuit is possibly also more energy to the work piece. Turns is more inductance, larger capacitor is more capacitance, changing the LC circuit, also changes the frequency. Higher frequency is not just better, different materials heat differently in different materials. Less inductance and high capacitance results in a higher current flowing, as it ramps up faster. High inductance and low capacitance needs longer time to ramp up the same current, so here you can better control it with on-time.
40A is the DC current draw. That doesn´t tell you how much AC current is flowing through the inductors. These converters put out a much higher voltage AC than the DC you feed them, so the current through the little inductors is much lower.
The tank voltage in the LC circuit is a AC voltage 3.14 times higher than the input DC voltage. I did a lot more measurements on a homemade ZVS induction heater I made, here you can see some more details on the voltages/currents in the circuit: kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/general-electronics/royer-induction-heater/
Even if not 40A, they do seem to be a weak (thermal) link in the circuit. I saw these chokes get to nearly 100C when running for 10-15 minutes with my unit.
150W induction heater: th-cam.com/video/A8FWSzfHgGc/w-d-xo.html
1800W induction heater: th-cam.com/video/jmAZhjl8Ybk/w-d-xo.html
36V 2200W server power supply: th-cam.com/video/xRAlXCzsY3Q/w-d-xo.html
40V 2000W laptop power supply: th-cam.com/video/5iMFYdDMfXo/w-d-xo.html
1800W IH 10 minute stress test: th-cam.com/video/v-TsBLFp8yo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for showing the picture-in-picture view. As a knifesmith, I am very interested in a mid sized induction heater. It's quite useful that the current draw shows you that the steel has risen above the critical temperature.
This is actually going to be boxed up and given to my father, he also does knifesmithing in a regular coal fired furnace, so this could help him pre-heat/harden them.
Thankfully I found your channel before I started assembling my 2500 watt induction heater(I'll worry about where I'm going to find a circuit in the house to run it later;-)
Many useful hints and ideas on where to look for shortcomings and how to test the assembled device. The suggestion to move the coil to the other side to avoid water damage is especially appreciated.
I've been enjoying your other videos since I found this one as well! Thanks for your effort!
Thank you for your build and review. i just ordered a similar unit today. paul Lodi California.
I'm surprised that that cheap induction heater worked as well as it did. Thanks
But it has been added parts? Not quite out the box!
Wow this thing was fine at max output, 1800w no pcb damage!
Love the videos as always mate keep it up👍
Thank you very much :)
It actually did pretty well really
Worked well at 1800W but with noticeable heating of the resonant capacitors. The other test I ran for 10 minutes at 1500W did not result in continues rising temperatures of anything but the cooling water, so I assume it can run for very long times at 1500W.
Maybe not bad to replace the provided fans of the zvs-driver with ones much higher quality... The same in PCs: The normal included fans - yes hold the promise to cool the components - but do it barely. Already in summer-weather-conditions they come to its limits of cooling power easily.
Therefore its really recommended, to use highest quality fans with much than enough cooling capability and right from beginning of working with the device...
But really interesting device that one: I read much about these especially 1800w and didnt expect, that they reach this promised high power in continuous testing. Maybe the customers, who made bad experiences forgot the necessarity of cooling the coil, what caused device fastly to complete overheating and melt the near components to the coil... 🤔
i dont know...
But yours tested in this clip surprised me really 😮👍👌
Would replacing the capacitors with higher capacity make this unit work for continuous duty. Like the testing as it is real world conditions.
Interesting im thinking of building one down the road your vidieo is encouraging Thanh you
Your awesome mate love the videos
No of turns required for work coil(1/2inch cu tube ) outer dia of 16.5 cm.purpose is to heat 5 inch hollow fe pipe of 10 cm length
With these heaters you should try to match the original resonant frequency, you can however also lower it much more than you can raise it. If you make a coil with a smaller inductance than the original, you risk killing the MOSFETs from increased switching losses due to the higher frequency of the LC circuit.
So hot but I doubt if it is hot enough to unmagnetized the steel ( ready to harden)
Do you lose any heating power if you extend the copper strait tube to get the coil further away from the electronics?
2 things happen! You lower the resonant frequency, from the added inductance, this might affect certain materials. You add more resistance and the total impedance goes up, resonant circulating current between the work coil and resonant capacitor gets lower. Which means less heating power.
excellent !!!
Good job, Sir.
I arrived a little bit late to this forum.
My questions are twofold: how do you connect the water on this experiment.
(2). can I use an AC donut coil on such board to work as cooking plate. If no any idea on how to make Dc induction Cooktop DIY. Thanks
Water goes into one end of the copper tube and out the other end. There is no such thing a DC induction cooktop. They all use a high frequency current formed in a resonant circuit, you can see my analysis of a cooktop here: th-cam.com/video/xW1WtAo4E2g/w-d-xo.html
These things are Beast
Added parts to get running well. Shame not out the box? How much hassle to get them running well. I have pc water pump radiator and fans, can put them through the tubes and pull hot air away. The added capacitors and what else?
That is about it, these units only need a good powerful stable power supply and water cooling of the work coil
Let me know if or when the power supply fails please.
I will do a follow up video.
Could you tell me about the paralleling of 4 units power supply?...how to connecting electrolite capacitor & diode?..Thank you
Connecting 4 in series is the same as 3 in series, all but the one at the negative rail needs to have floating negative from their enclosure/mains earth. 4 in series can however give problems as the 48V is near the 60-63V rating of the components used, some PSUs can handle 4 in series, but you are stretching it a bit. Capacitor bank on the output is just put across positive and negative rail.
Didn't know this was possible
Wht about induction coil temp? Becaus my coil heats alot!
It is as cold as the water temperature, water cooling is a must!
hi
i got a ZVS Induction Heating Board Flyback Driver Heater DIY Cooker WITH Coil DC24-36V. Would i still need a heating transfer compound?
Thermal compound is always a good idea in power electronics applications, you need something to fill out those microscopic holes in heat sink and base plate of the MOSFET.
Kaizer Power Electronics do you have a video in this? This is my first time doing this. My unit also came without clips to hold down the copper spiral induction section 😡😡😂
mate...hose is directly going inside the coil? is it safe if you touch the water in the bucket? thanks
Yes. FIrst Water itself is a really bad conductor. (in your Tub not so much because of salt from your sweat, and all the soap in there).
Second, even tough you have more than 200V AC on the coil you have no problem there. You can directly touch both ends of the coil. I did it myself. the frequenzy of the voltage is arround 50khz. At those high frequenzy muscle and nerv cells are basically not receptive to the current anymore.
Also there is the "skin" effect. the Higher the frequenzy the more of the current is pushed to the surface of the conductor. so most of it is carried over our dead skin layer and does not penetrate your body. wich also results in a higher resistance since our skin itself is not very conductive. At much higher Voltages it could still cause burn but not here.
Water has a high impedance at these frequencies and you can throw a grounded wire to a earth rod into the bucket/reservoir to be sure. De-mineralized water will not conduct any current due to missing minerals and salts, but only after a short while it will absorb dirt, ions and new metals/salts from electrolysis so it will behave just like regular tap water.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk thanks mate... got it..
Can the induction heater be turned on with a pipe already inserted?
Yes it can, but you will most likely have a current consumption 5-6 times higher than idle, you simply put a lot of stress on MOSFETs at start-up, if you can avoid it, then do not do it :)
But what was the temp on the steel pipe!?!?!?
From visual guessing, I would say around 800 degree Celsius according to en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_heat
Very cool 👍
I will try a longer test and see if it gets warmer ;)
does it give you enough time to form this steel or will it cool fast ?
You can hammer on it, but this is not warm enough for black smithing if that is what you are asking about.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk thanks for the answer, If so, what's the point from this device please ? can you think of any application other than what I mentioned ?
@@athrunzala5337 Fitting of bearings, fitting of tight tolerance metal parts, pre-heaitng before soldering, rust removal, loosing up bolts and nuts that are stuck/rusted. Melting marshmellows. Hardening of metals. Plenty of applications :) You could even use it to pre-heat before using a furnace.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDkNever thought of all these :P thanks, nice video !!
What about solid metal bar it works..?
Yes, due to the frequency the current will run in the outer parts of the metal bar and slowly the heat will spread to the middle as well. Look up skin effect if you want to learn more about it.
Hello i need help you i need same your induction heater
Search ebay for 1800W induction heater
Can you actually melt that pipe with it?
Directly heated like in this video, it can only get up to a maximum of white hot. Curie temperatures makes induction heating much less efficient, when the iron crystals starts flowing around. A crucible is needed to efficiently melt metals, or very high power induction heaters in the 5-10kW range. Work coil and load could also be optimized in this setup.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk hmmm... okay, i got you...
1. but if you turn it vertically, and put pipe in graphite crucible inside coil (graphite is conductive material) in theory it should melt that iron pipe, right? (assuming it fits inside :D )
2. Thanks for answer.
@@albin8638 Yes, it should be able to melt it in a crucible. With lid and maybe some insulation around it.
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk may i ask you one more question?
I know, that more current and/or higher frequency = more heat
what about capacitors and coil turns? more = better as well?
@@albin8638 more current in the LC circuit is possibly also more energy to the work piece. Turns is more inductance, larger capacitor is more capacitance, changing the LC circuit, also changes the frequency. Higher frequency is not just better, different materials heat differently in different materials. Less inductance and high capacitance results in a higher current flowing, as it ramps up faster. High inductance and low capacitance needs longer time to ramp up the same current, so here you can better control it with on-time.
How to order this heater
Search for 1800W induction heater on ebay
👍👍
Those tiny chokes handle almost 40 amps? NO WAYYY
40A is the DC current draw. That doesn´t tell you how much AC current is flowing through the inductors.
These converters put out a much higher voltage AC than the DC you feed them, so the current through the little inductors is much lower.
The tank voltage in the LC circuit is a AC voltage 3.14 times higher than the input DC voltage. I did a lot more measurements on a homemade ZVS induction heater I made, here you can see some more details on the voltages/currents in the circuit: kaizerpowerelectronics.dk/general-electronics/royer-induction-heater/
Even if not 40A, they do seem to be a weak (thermal) link in the circuit. I saw these chokes get to nearly 100C when running for 10-15 minutes with my unit.
هل بامكانها صهر الحديد
Only with a crusible
لقد صنعت واحدة ووضعت فيها ٨مسفت نوع irfp260m وا ٨ capacitor نوع 0.33uf J630 v1200 فهل يكفي هاذا لي صهر الحديد
You sound Danish are you Danish?
Yes I am :) On most of my videos there is also a link to my website, on a Danish domain, that could also have been a giveaway, just not on this one :)
can you pls stop that smacking sound every few seconds? once you hear it, its really annoying.
Welcome to the world of Misophonia
@@RoadRunnerMeep let me google that word...
I like your videos! But you really should stop to make that funny noise with your mouth every some seconds 🙃
In my latest videos you should notice it is much less :) I never thought about it until about a year back
@@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk we all have those noises we make or words we use way too often. No offense! Cheers
@@f.d.6675 I apparently do it when thinking too hard about the next words, brain does it to get a pause :)