Here are a few suggestions on how you might improve traction: - Weight Transfer due to Acceleration: The weight of the vehicle shifts backwards as you accelerate so the combined weight of the battery and the motor will shift backward causing more traction on the rear wheels. From watching the video it seems that as you press down rapidly on the throttle and accelerate rapidly, the car starts to rotate to the left (11:22). I am assuming that the center of gravity of the car would be located more on the back right-hand side of the vehicle as that is where the battery and engine are roughly located. This uneven weight distribution, coupled with the fact that the weight shifts backwards as you accelerate, means that there will be a larger downward force on the rear right tire and hence more traction. This is also possibly the reason for the tire being ripped off as more of the force is exerted on that tire. - Lower the Tire Stiffness: You want a tire with high hysteresis (more deformable). Race cars have high hysteresis tires to increase friction and traction. Basically a softer tire. - Tire thread pattern: Add an asymmetrical pattern of circumferential (longitudinal) and lateral grooves to the tires to increase grip. [EDIT: As others have pointed out, whilst driving on dry and smooth road surfaces, treadless or slick tires will have more grip than treaded tires due to larger surface area of the tire (contact patch) being in contact with the road. That being said, the road being tested on was quite rough so a smoother road would also improve rubber contact.] - Lower steering ratio at high speeds: I saw it mentioned here already that you can program lower steering ratio at increased speeds. This should increase control. I also suggest this book (it's great): Vehicle Dynamics - Theory and Application by Reza N. Jazar Love the videos mate!
tire groove only helps if there is anything to channel out from the surface of the tire. The largest mechanical grip will always come from slick, patternless tires.
You're right. Threads are only needed to avoid hydroplaning on wet roads. Tire threads do infact reduce grip (when compared to slick tires) on dry smooth roads. That was an oversight on my part.
@@itchyprince3793 sure you could. But I think if you're building rc cars from scratch, then you're probably going to want to understand how and why the car moves the way that it does. That way, you improve and optimize it. Which is what he asked for.
I would suggest buying tires for it. I have a RC car I built that does the same with with any soft rubber tires due to the motor being too powerful, I’ve been told hard rubber ones provide a little less traction, but can easily handle up to 80mph.
Back when I worked in an RC shop, HPI sold belted rubber tires for just this kind of application. If you're in an experimenting mood, they have different foams for inside each type, but the standard ones should work fine for you. Ofna sells belted road tires too, but last I checked they were only for 1/8 scale buggy wheels.
Sure I'm almost a senior, but watching these videos bring back the kid in all of us. And you do it with precision and style, not to mention a lot of knowledge comes to the table to. Always an A for effort..
This don’t need programming this can be done on the remote so the servo didn’t use it full swing. But prob he don’t want to break speed records and use full swing on the servo
Front camber and toe in positive Rear no toe in, slight positive camber Soft, slightly treaded rubber tires with foam inlays Great work, an absolute pleasure to watch, thank you!
Add a simple gyro on the steering axis to help with stability on launch and high speed tracking. Most high speed cars now have this. Cheap and easy. You can also play with exponential on the throttle to make it less aggressive.
the gyro just sounds like cheating if you havent already tried to tune the car the way it is. only after everything is already as good as it can get in its configuration, then slap a gyro on it. but yeah throttle linearity tuning is a must for any syle of build.
A simple gyro from a helicopter linked to the steering servo and placed at the back of the car will enable she used to do one of two things keep the steering and check so it doesn’t wander out or do it the other way and turn into a drift car that’s really controllable lol at a fick of a switch , and u can buy different compounds rubber tires for track that have a temp Ratings and u can use a tire grip solution that you put on the tire that makes them tacky
darren minter everything you just brought up is what makes this go from an awesome engineering challenge to a cheap boring hack at achieving traction, ill straight up stop watching this series if it ever becomes something like that. we are not recreating and simulating characteristics of a vehicle, we are scaling one down while maintaining all the physics principals and strategy towards achieving traction employed by the real thing.
To make it easier to drive in high speed, is it a way to make the steering "slower", so the input from the steering wheel do not result in a quick reaction from steering servo, then it wil be easier to control in higher speeds. Cheers.
Could you fit 1/8th scale on road tires to it? Come in a variety of shores (firmness) and handle very high speeds. Also softer rear springs (and front) help some. Love the project. Thanks for sharing.
Amazing craftsmanship. I admire your patience and perseverance. You do like your camouflage shirts, don’t you? That nature resembles the type of scenery you can find in Greece 🇬🇷, Israel 🇮🇱, Cyprus 🇨🇾 or anywhere in the Mediterranean for that matter.
Maybe a limited slip differential? The explosion looked like it was induced by extreme rotation speed of the wheel that had less grip. I might be wrong tho
@@danielrouw2593 Locked diffs don't let a slipping tire speed up compared to the gripping tire though, which would prevent the blow-out. Limited slip is usually the best of both worlds, but at high power scenarios, a locked diff might be the only way to prevent spinning.
@@danielrouw2593 the tire doesn't explode because of torque, it explodes because of excessive rpm. If you do donuts, the outer wheel gets more load, the inner less due to weight transfer. Therefore the inner wheel has less grip, so with an open diff, it spins. And the way a diff is built, it does that at up to twice the vehicles topspeed. What follows, can be seen in the video.
Tyre exploded cause it was not glued on properly. It should be shoe glued on and the whole rim and tyre have glue on it not just little spots like his had
1. Reduce your maximum steering angle as your speed increases, if you have a motor speed sensor, tie it in that way. 2. Change your tires to high speed rubber ones. 3. If you have travel left in your suspension, consider softening the rears to help it squat on launch, this will also help lighten the steering. 4. Set up your controller to ramp the throttle even if its just over 1/4 of a second or so, it will stop the 0rpm torque dump and the inability to take off. 5. Consider if you want the car to automatically countersteer via a gyro, it will help you keep it straight.
@@racingrivals8934 he's talking about the exploding tire. But it exploded due to him doing donuts at full throttle. In that case, the open diff spinns one wheel to double the normal topspeed. That way, you can kill almost any tire. Super thick diff oil would have saved the tire
@@racingrivals8934 an alignment wouldn't be enough in itself, he has a few things to sort out. Tires Alignment Camber Dual rate adjustment to help with over correcting when steering. Tires are the biggest change to any rc, they can be a big upgrade in themselves (other than power upgrades). I had my rustler 2wd up to 140kph on jc concepts tires (non belted) before a tire blew.
Hmm I might have some ideas... 1. Make a better tires or buy one (the softer the more traction, but faster tirewear) 2. Try to make a aerodynamic body 3. Try messing up with suspension (i think you should soften it) 4. Try moving some weight backwards to achieve 40/60 ratio 5. I think you should find a bigger road area to test it in a bigger speeds, it could behave very differently. 6. Maybe the engine is just to powerfull and you should ad either more weight or changinng the engine but before that do the thing here ^^^ I think thats all of my ideas.
I think the biggest traction benefit would come from the suspension, it seemed like it is just so lightweight that the dampening speed and springrate needs to be super soft in order to transfer more of the bumps into the suspension. when it slips into a higher gear with the throttle pinned, the excess energy should be stored in the rear suspension rather than the tire surface which is causing it to break loose. this will help prevent traction loss during launching and shifting under throttle, aero will not really effect launching but could help maintain traction at speed but should not be relied on. you dont really want to add weight or remove power, but shifting weight whenever possible is ideal for minor balance adjustments. and instead of changing engines, you just need to play with the throttle linearity as well as the torque rampup rate. once it gets dialed in, the steering linearity should be modified to reduce the twitchyness of direction change. one last thing, it might be a good idea to put a layer of material under the tire foam to prevent rim damage if the tire blows off again.
I'd suggest finding some tires with tread as it'll help with the rough road surface. As others have mentioned, hard rubber can handle high speeds and softer springs may help.
Hello, If you have a differential gear between the front and rear axles, then change the ratio so that the front is about 2 to 5% more speed than the rear. With that he might drive better straight ahead and does not break out so quickly in curves. The car stays on track better. Thank you for your many great videos. Warm greetings from Germany Joachim
love your videos i used to race back in the 80s- 90s when we had lots of tracks here in california , we used Bolink racing tires , the foam compound was very soft and very light weight material, also you need to fully glue them to the rim , as they tend to expand away from the rim , this misshapes the tire and brakes your contact patch with the road. also being light weight material helps as centrifugal force is less on the tire material. once that is fixed the body adds considerable down force , we would never run high speeds without it as it would stick the car to the ground and aerodynamics were a big part of traction. good luck
To run straight: Toe adjustments, caster, suspension setup, chassis balance and running with the body on for aerodynamics and traction. Slow setting gel super glue for you to be able to glue the tires better and syringe type tips for you to reach the inside of the tires. Hope that helps.
@@itchyprince3793 there is nothing wrong with foam tires, its the application of the cyanocryciliates used to hold them onto the rims, CA glues are great for ribbed tires or tires with minimal bonding or grooved surfaces, your dealing with a tire now that needs complete surface to surface bonding instead use this list of items needed: rubber cement, mineral spirits, gloves, bowl nose plug lol optional items : mountain bike inner tube and scissors make sure the tire is not bored to the diameter of the rim but leave it as is, make the rim about 10mm larger than the center of the tire, then use contact rubber cement, coat the rim and the inner surface of the tire, let it dry thoroughly do all 4 tires and rims at the same time, this gets a bit messy, when dry take mineral spirits and dunk the tire into it and quickly stretch the tire over the rim, the mineral spirits will soften the contact rubber cement only for a few seconds so be quick about it, once the tire is on the rim let it sit overnight true the tires on the rims once trued you will be good to go, if you want to increase the traction on dusty hard packed surfaces or concrete, then take the inner tube and cut a piece that measures just about 3mm shy of the overall contact surface of your trued foam tires, again repeat the mounting of the above specifications on this time , you will need to fabricate a half cone basically the diameter of the tires after truing, and then coat the contact surface with rubber cement and the inner side of the inner tube, let dry completely, then dunk the inner tube in mineral spirits and use the tire horn to pull tube over the tire making rubber capped tires, I used to race 8th scale BMT's and later on Serpents and this was a standard in onroad high speed racing and helped immensely with traction, the benefit of rubber capping is you can use tire grip additives, the downside you cant true them save that of side wall truing,
My suggestion is to free up your a-arms so the suspension works as intended. It might not be a bad idea to have it a little bit softer and more ground clerance. Tires, not foam and if you can find a road that is somewhat dust free. Very nice project, nice to watch. Good luck!
Dude! That car is the perfect candidate for an EDF! Right on the top dead center. You've got some surplus power so use it to induce some down force. There's a 70mm fan that has 1.8kg of thrust. I half ass tried it on my short course truck and I could almost drive on a wall. It was so quick that you could hardly track it with your eyes. But before I went all the way with that build, I got into quad rotors and haven't looked back. Ya, like another dude said, get some proper belted tires and glue the crap out of them. Nice car! Cheers!
Suggestions: Improve camber angle (front and rear) - consider tyre based on surface - consider perhaps adding a spoiler to increase down force (not sure of the effectiveness of a splitter or spoiler at this size) - perhaps consider loading on the tires (again at this scale not sure). Best and only suggestions I have.
I also suggest adding some weight to it, I know this seems a little counter intuitive as light means fast but too light and you lose control, balance the power to the weight so it stills goes fast and stays on the ground.
Hey, I’ve always loved your videos and your projects are truly fascinating. I wanted to give my input on how to improve your car that others may have not said; -Softer suspension. The bumps on the road are much bigger relative to the car. Also softer suspension allows for smoother application of power to the ground. But as with anything, just not too much. -Ground effects. I noticed your under tray is smooth but has a lot of potential to really suck the car down. The car has to be moving to benefit from this but it can really have an effect if done right. -Think about center of gravity. You can get a few kitchen scales and see what your weight distribution is and make sure it’s not to one side and, ideally, 40% front. Better tires and all that jazz the other people said but also look into tire softening compounds. The foam may be ok if you lightly spread something like acetone on them to really soften them up. Thank you for the many hours of entertainment you’ve brought us!
Some suggestion: You can decrease the gear ratio in the transmission. If you see, the jump from 1st gear to 2nd gear is quite extensive meaning that when the car changes from 1st to 2nd gear along with a high torque motor, the wheel will slip a little and hence decrease the traction. You can decrease the width of the front wheel so that the efficiency while turning is high. If you see , it is easier to turn a smaller width wheel than a bigger width wheel because of it’s low surface area contact. Secondly, more is the area, less is the pressure of a medium. You can even add counterweights at the front of the car but not a lot as while braking the centre of gravity will shift to front end. This counterweight will counter the opposing acceleration force that tends to make the car’s centre of gravity at the back end. Again, fantastic job to create a automatic transmission car. Commendable job .
I have the exact same radio. It has a gyro feature built into the receiver. It really helps keep the car straight with crazy power, plus you already have it, so no extra expense. Also use Shoe Goo thinned with solvent on foam tires. Increases grip AND life. I suggest using 1/8 onroad tires, as they are designed for the speeds you're going to reach, as well as being more durable than those, and being much easier to replace. I'm experimenting with an old set of 1/8 onroad wheels, onto which I'm going to cast solid urethane rubber. Probably heavy, but it's got to be better for speed runs. I wish you could still buy capped foams, but the thinned Shoe Goo soaks into the foam, increasing its strength and durability.
adjust throttle curve, heated rubber tires (as the ones we useon 1/4 scale, but probably too big), fix the wheels alignment, front toe out, rear toe in, and go from there. As usual, nice content, as I'm also an rc lover.
From the aftermath of the shredded wheel, you can see that it ripped the foam only where it was glued around the edge of the wheel. If you glue the entire surface somehow that won't be an issue anymore. As for not having traction, you could either try different tyres or make the car heavier
Been racing rc cars some years ago... There are rubber capped foam tires that can help. Back out the slipper clutch some (if you even have one.. if you don't, you need one) Plus I seen that the tire exploded in the center and not around the edges. You need to coat both the rim completely AND the inside of the tire liberally with tire glue, not just the edges. It makes a bit of a mess after pushing the tire on but you can clean that up with acetone. And keep in mind the surface you are running on is dusty and gravely... Try a new parking lot or even your nearest race track might have a carting track they will let you run on. Nice build for sure.. and good luck 👍👍👍
Sorry. But you don't need 1000s in machinist tools to do this. You would be surprised what you can do with basic tools a grinder and a soldering iron. That's where I started.. working up to buying a lathe soon . Please don't knock down anyone's ideas ,passion, or dreams. He might even work at a shop where he might be able to borrow time on equipment.
@@marcialdospuforini1197 why so hostile? Saying to go make one doesn't necessarily mean go machine one from scratch. There's plenty of parts kits to build up your own RC exactly how you like. Ease up buddy.
@@marcialdospuforini1197 Not at all, 3D printing and glue go a really long way. If you need parts that require a lathe just go to machine shop and order the parts, no need to own the machine yourself.
DO NOT use a gyro because as soon as the car darts off in one direction, it will try and counter steer itself repeatably until it spins out and that can be disastrous at high speeds. Also, steer clear from using rubber tyres as they expand and eventually - if not instantly - break especially with the power and drivetrain you are using. I found that adjusting your dual rate (steering input) on the control makes it alot easier to handle in a straight line. Lastly, find a clear stretch of road without debris, potholes, cats eyes etc. Love your videos, I have been watching them since the micro supercharger. Keep it up!
Hair ties for battery hold downs. Never would've imagined that one. As far as traction: Seems like the tire material is too hard/brittle. Like taking a shopping cart over gravel. VERY rough. Perhaps a pneumatic type of tire would be better?
A few issues: - Foam tyres are never good on rough surfaces (they just tear up, as you found), maybe get some rubber tyres with modest tread for on that road. Foam is good for painted asphalt and carpet. - Steering angle is too aggressive for the higher speeds, I found when I put a 2-speed in my nitro RC that the higher speeds required me to reduce the throw on the steering servo. Modern radios can do this electronically. - Put the body on the car, you will find less yaw sensitivity with the body fitted. - Loosen up the rear diff, tighten the front. That way front will stay square on takeoff, reduces torque steer on turning too
Nice project! Buddy now you need Spektrum AVC radio and receiver. you can adjust tour throttle exponential curve and adjust the stability system to make your car somewhat controllable.
well in real life racing (drag racing), you would modify rear toe IN slightly to track straighter. You could also soften rear springs to allow the car to "squat" and absorb some of the instant torque your delivering. Another addition would be a Gyro system to help control the torque steer from the rear. I agree with Tiporari that exponential on your controller should be adjusted for a smoother launch. Also, look into RUBBER tires, and if traction is needed, you can soften them with chemicals such as what's done with race tires in the real world. A belted tire would also be suggested as they can absorb some of the wild torque, and spread it across the tire evenly. Good luck! You are on the right path! My son and I love your videos, and hope you get the outcome your looking for :)
Suggestions for improved traction. Start with tightening the front diff to where if you hold both outdrives you can just turn it by hand, loosen the rear diff to the point it is almost free. This should stop the car wanting to spin out so easily. Other things that may help try adding some exponential to your throttle and steering to make them a little softer and less aggressive, possibly adding a gyro or AVC system to help with traction control and stability issues. Also some good belted rubber tires with closed cell foam inserts and a bit of wheel balancing will help tremendously, having done it during my years racing 1/10 offroad it is worth it especially at the kinds of wheel speeds you will get out of the 3 speed transmission.
That's a really nice build, You make me wish I had the equipment to bring my ideas to life- good work. I noticed the tyre gave in where it wasn't glued and so think that just gluing the whole inner tyre surfaces to the wheels might stop the tyres exploding- as for traction look at different shore ratings and if your planning on going 130mph+ stick to foams is the advice I got from another you tube speed runner. All the best.
My guess would be to go with rubber (preferably belted) instead of foam as others have suggested. And the least porous and cleanest road/surface you can find. Great stuff!!!
Hello J! Firstly i just wanted to say how much I enjoy your uploads and full respect for what you do bruv. I think solid rubber tyres would help Also because of the weight in relation to the short wheel you will always struggle with balance but its a pleasure to watch whatever the results. All the best and dont stop please. Alex Birmingham Uk Good look matey
For a simple methode, use soft and wider tires for rear. Use narrow and hard tires for front. Its make more better. I hope this methode can help you. Btw, good job!
A few things to consider. Tractor pulling and drag racing. Tractor pulling has the opposite effect, you dont have enough weight:power low end. Drag racing has under inflated tyres, hard to do with solid rubber. Also consider some form of gear limiting based on traction loss?? Its almost like you need to rethink the gear ratios. It could do with less aggression in first gear but its a very hard task to get that perfect balance without a bucket load of R&D.
Traction is always a problem with rc cars. Your car is awesome. 1st I’ve seen with gears. Could you craft some tyres out of car tyre rubber or maybe even better quality would be airplane tyre. Pls try again as the story is still unfinished 😁 tv boat with gears would be nice and traction not so much a problem. Maybe a world record attempt speed. I know you can do that with gears. Sometimes people wire around wheels to stop them from ballooning. Americans seem to get better tyres than I’ve seen. Keep it up your skills and patience is exceptional 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Worth buying a set of racing rubber tyres and rims, gluing and balancing. Racing tyres have a decent compound for optimum grip at specified temperatures and they have a fibre belt in them and special foam inserts to ensure even contact patches. The RC club I know makes you glue the tyres on site to make sure you are not using any different inner foam also for competitive gain.
Nobody knows how to traction train this beast, I doubt there is even a way without mad spending on electronics.... I am just holding on for the next vid. Thank You!
I'd like to see this on a track with some softer tires. One thing we used to do in racing, was to belt our own soft compounded tires. It prevented ballooning and catastrophic failures like yours, but it makes balancing the tires harder.
This car is incredible! Not sure about sure compounds, but maybe some sort of stability management would help overall? When you have that much power to tame, sometimes one needs a little bit of help ;)
Go with rubber tires not foam rubber, narrowed suspension didn't help handling either. Try wider rims and rubber tires, you can offset the rims so they don't stick out further. Play with the spring rate of the shocks as well! Awesome car great work! 👍
Another useful thing to do, is to have wider rear tires than front tires. This inherently gives more understeer to the car, which helps when the rear is this lively. A lot of 1/8 RWD buggies do that, and those handle extremely well (although a bit understeery sometimes at high speeds).
It looked like the tyre that parted company had spun on the plastic rim and welded to the rim in a couple of places which would allow for uncontrolled distortion "bubbles" to form which resulted in the tyre tearing itself apart. The first thing I would try would be applying a thin coat of urethane glue to a new tyre before fitting to the rim before exploring more expensive options. Cheers Eric
Based on the amount of torque that little baby has, you could probably slip on monster truck alloys and rubbers (rc, of course) and the pickup will still be awesome. 😊
Rubber tires with foam filler inside, glue properly and then a little grape soda sprayed on the track you intend to run on. Cheap version VHT spray. You'll have to play with which foam insert works best for your application, weight and balance. The foam tires you made could work if you glued the whole inside surface of the tires to the rims. They will still chunk and come apart with use though. Cleaning up the rims for mounting new tires will be a pain as well. That's all I have from memory of my RC car days.
As someone who is into RC cars and has a few of them you should definitely just buy the tires at least. The wheels you could probably make yourself (the ones you had seemed to do fine), but having good road tires will completely change how it handles.
if you are going to continue to use foam tires on that surface i suggest putting a bead of glue around the wall of the tires to stiffen them up a bit. also there's traction compound for foam tires
Ciao Johnny, sono stato a parecchie gare di auto elettriche RC e *tutti* utilizzavano un additivo sulle ruote in foam che si attiva col calore. Le mettevano su dei rotori con dei rulli che le comprimevano a bassa velocità con una lampadina vicino e aggiungevano pian piano un additivo che serviva per aumentare notevolmente il grip. Hi Johnny, I've been at a lot of races for electric RC cars and before the race everybody had their foam tires rolling on these slow rotors with rollers adding an activator that activates with heat (light bulbs) the grip of the tires.
Probabilmente il motore comunque spinge un po' troppo... Sui modelli 1/8 e 1/16 trovare il connubio esatto tra peso e potenza del motore è fondamentale per avere delle prestazioni utilizzabili... Ciò non toglie che anche con un motore potente la bravura del pilota faccia la differenza e ovviamente però un motore molto potente da adito ad una finestra di sensibilità molto minore che uno di potenza inferiore
Le ruote in foam sono ottime per l'asfalto ma durante le gare le piste in asfalto venivano pulite ogni 2/3 gare per non intaccare di polvere le ruote "attivate" e le ruote venivano rasate prima di ogni gara per togliere lo strato superficiale.
Adding to the already good comments down below, I would say a bit more toe-in on front and rear axles to aid in high speed stability. It may seem like aerodynamics at this scale wouldn't make a large difference but it does. Add a larger front splitter and more rear wing angle. You have plenty of power to overcome the added drag. Put the body on!
3d Printing parts for an RC car is awesome. Managed to wreck a part on my Tamiya car. i could have bought the sprue with the part on it for around 14 € i think. Instead, i modelled the part in CAD and printed it. Not sure if that was the quickest solution, but sure the most fun solution.
I don't know diddly squat about RC cars, but that foam looks like it just pills up into rolly dust when you're cutting/abrading it. So on a road surface (which if you go by scale it would be like a road car on slicks trying to drive on rip rap) I really can't see it working. There's got to be some kind of super soft rubber treaded tires out there that are air filled. Probably get much better compliance and traction out of that. And if they've got a stretchy carcass you might get a lot of expansion, which at lower speeds might cause a reduction of torque to the wheels (from essentially raising your gearing) before you even react to the wheelspin, which may make it easier to deal with. Plus at high speed you'd get a bit more gear, like on a fuel car. You'd have to balance that with a decent sidewall for handling, of course. Absurdly good work as always.
Get slick tyres ,from drag rc car for rear ,sand em down to fit wheels and body . For front try a tyre with deep thread and less wider from the rear wheels . Should help . Great videos btw
for more traction, widen your rear wheels, create grooves on your rims so as not to drive out the glue when you box the tire and use a flexible neoprene-type glue, create an insert in your tires (by making them in several parts) to stiffen the rubber in the most important rotations, the distribution of mass must correspond to your distribution of motricity, taking into account mass transfers. It's enough for this time have fun ;)
I have 2 suggestions for you. 1. Don't run foam tires on rough asphalt. I am surprised they lasted as long as they did with the sharp turns and speeds you were going. Maybe run a rubber tire with foam inserts. They should last a bit longer. 2. RC cars depend on downforce to get traction. You had no body on the car or a wing on the right for any downforce. Put the body on the car and put a wing on the back and you should do much better....especially at higher speeds.
Fun fact: Never managed to go more than 50-60% throttle.
Damn that thing must be powerful
Interesting!
So, which one is more powerful. The nitro version or the electric version and which one do u like @JohnnyQ90
Insert shocked pikachu face meme here 🤣🤣🤣
I have a question, why didn’t you use rubber tires instead?
Here are a few suggestions on how you might improve traction:
- Weight Transfer due to Acceleration: The weight of the vehicle shifts backwards as you accelerate so the combined weight of the battery and the motor will shift backward causing more traction on the rear wheels. From watching the video it seems that as you press down rapidly on the throttle and accelerate rapidly, the car starts to rotate to the left (11:22). I am assuming that the center of gravity of the car would be located more on the back right-hand side of the vehicle as that is where the battery and engine are roughly located. This uneven weight distribution, coupled with the fact that the weight shifts backwards as you accelerate, means that there will be a larger downward force on the rear right tire and hence more traction. This is also possibly the reason for the tire being ripped off as more of the force is exerted on that tire.
- Lower the Tire Stiffness: You want a tire with high hysteresis (more deformable). Race cars have high hysteresis tires to increase friction and traction. Basically a softer tire.
- Tire thread pattern: Add an asymmetrical pattern of circumferential (longitudinal) and lateral grooves to the tires to increase grip. [EDIT: As others have pointed out, whilst driving on dry and smooth road surfaces, treadless or slick tires will have more grip than treaded tires due to larger surface area of the tire (contact patch) being in contact with the road. That being said, the road being tested on was quite rough so a smoother road would also improve rubber contact.]
- Lower steering ratio at high speeds: I saw it mentioned here already that you can program lower steering ratio at increased speeds. This should increase control.
I also suggest this book (it's great):
Vehicle Dynamics
- Theory and Application
by Reza N. Jazar
Love the videos mate!
if grooves help with grip, then why do both drag cars and Formula 1 use slicks? :P
tire groove only helps if there is anything to channel out from the surface of the tire. The largest mechanical grip will always come from slick, patternless tires.
You're right. Threads are only needed to avoid hydroplaning on wet roads. Tire threads do infact reduce grip (when compared to slick tires) on dry smooth roads. That was an oversight on my part.
Or you can just buy rubber tires and wheels and skip all the complicated math and physics
@@itchyprince3793 sure you could. But I think if you're building rc cars from scratch, then you're probably going to want to understand how and why the car moves the way that it does. That way, you improve and optimize it. Which is what he asked for.
I would suggest buying tires for it. I have a RC car I built that does the same with with any soft rubber tires due to the motor being too powerful, I’ve been told hard rubber ones provide a little less traction, but can easily handle up to 80mph.
yeah. buy rubber tires and if the rims are not good or bice enough, 3d print then based on the tires needs.
+1
Foam tires seem to work fine on 1/8 Gas cars and they would be as quick as his car.
@@Rtechmobile the torq difference is huge as electric it is from 0rpm while gas has need of a little rpm meaning tyre has "time" to adjust the inertia
Back when I worked in an RC shop, HPI sold belted rubber tires for just this kind of application. If you're in an experimenting mood, they have different foams for inside each type, but the standard ones should work fine for you. Ofna sells belted road tires too, but last I checked they were only for 1/8 scale buggy wheels.
Sure I'm almost a senior, but watching these videos bring back the kid in all of us. And you do it with precision and style, not to mention a lot of knowledge comes to the table to. Always an A for effort..
Program your controls that the car has les steering angle in the higher speeds! That makes the controls a lot easier!
This don’t need programming this can be done on the remote so the servo didn’t use it full swing. But prob he don’t want to break speed records and use full swing on the servo
There is a easier way.
He removed the 4wd and switched to rwd...
Front camber and toe in positive
Rear no toe in, slight positive camber
Soft, slightly treaded rubber tires with foam inlays
Great work, an absolute pleasure to watch, thank you!
Add a simple gyro on the steering axis to help with stability on launch and high speed tracking. Most high speed cars now have this. Cheap and easy. You can also play with exponential on the throttle to make it less aggressive.
both easy and viable fixes.
the gyro just sounds like cheating if you havent already tried to tune the car the way it is. only after everything is already as good as it can get in its configuration, then slap a gyro on it. but yeah throttle linearity tuning is a must for any syle of build.
A simple gyro from a helicopter linked to the steering servo and placed at the back of the car will enable she used to do one of two things keep the steering and check so it doesn’t wander out or do it the other way and turn into a drift car that’s really controllable lol at a fick of a switch , and u can buy different compounds rubber tires for track that have a temp Ratings and u can use a tire grip solution that you put on the tire that makes them tacky
darren minter everything you just brought up is what makes this go from an awesome engineering challenge to a cheap boring hack at achieving traction, ill straight up stop watching this series if it ever becomes something like that. we are not recreating and simulating characteristics of a vehicle, we are scaling one down while maintaining all the physics principals and strategy towards achieving traction employed by the real thing.
Solid rear axle and some better tyres and weight distribution 🙌 very thick oil in the front diff. Could lock the rear diff with bluetack or epoxy
To make it easier to drive in high speed, is it a way to make the steering "slower", so the input from the steering wheel do not result in a quick reaction from steering servo, then it wil be easier to control in higher speeds.
Cheers.
Exponential right?
Could you fit 1/8th scale on road tires to it? Come in a variety of shores (firmness) and handle very high speeds. Also softer rear springs (and front) help some. Love the project. Thanks for sharing.
Angus Rae damn bro, wtf did he do?
Amazing craftsmanship. I admire your patience and perseverance. You do like your camouflage shirts, don’t you? That nature resembles the type of scenery you can find in Greece 🇬🇷, Israel 🇮🇱, Cyprus 🇨🇾 or anywhere in the Mediterranean for that matter.
Maybe a limited slip differential? The explosion looked like it was induced by extreme rotation speed of the wheel that had less grip. I might be wrong tho
The wheel exploded pretty sure because of the diff. More lock would have prevented that.
You are definitely right
@@danielrouw2593 Locked diffs don't let a slipping tire speed up compared to the gripping tire though, which would prevent the blow-out. Limited slip is usually the best of both worlds, but at high power scenarios, a locked diff might be the only way to prevent spinning.
@@danielrouw2593 the tire doesn't explode because of torque, it explodes because of excessive rpm.
If you do donuts, the outer wheel gets more load, the inner less due to weight transfer. Therefore the inner wheel has less grip, so with an open diff, it spins.
And the way a diff is built, it does that at up to twice the vehicles topspeed. What follows, can be seen in the video.
Tyre exploded cause it was not glued on properly. It should be shoe glued on and the whole rim and tyre have glue on it not just little spots like his had
1. Reduce your maximum steering angle as your speed increases, if you have a motor speed sensor, tie it in that way.
2. Change your tires to high speed rubber ones.
3. If you have travel left in your suspension, consider softening the rears to help it squat on launch, this will also help lighten the steering.
4. Set up your controller to ramp the throttle even if its just over 1/4 of a second or so, it will stop the 0rpm torque dump and the inability to take off.
5. Consider if you want the car to automatically countersteer via a gyro, it will help you keep it straight.
Do away with the foam tires, get some belted tires from an arrma (hoons), should be good for about 100mph, good traction too.
Dude its a 1/10 car the car just need a propper alignment
@@racingrivals8934 he's talking about the exploding tire.
But it exploded due to him doing donuts at full throttle. In that case, the open diff spinns one wheel to double the normal topspeed. That way, you can kill almost any tire.
Super thick diff oil would have saved the tire
Grp is pretty good and cheaper. Not sure if they do 1/10 as I run larger (infraction)
@@racingrivals8934 an alignment wouldn't be enough in itself, he has a few things to sort out.
Tires
Alignment
Camber
Dual rate adjustment to help with over correcting when steering.
Tires are the biggest change to any rc, they can be a big upgrade in themselves (other than power upgrades).
I had my rustler 2wd up to 140kph on jc concepts tires (non belted) before a tire blew.
@@deathnightANIMATED I'm sure with the 3d printer he can make 17mm hex for the car he has.
Johnny with this rc beast: :))
Kev with his 200 mph rc car: :)
Hmm I might have some ideas...
1. Make a better tires or buy one (the softer the more traction, but faster tirewear)
2. Try to make a aerodynamic body
3. Try messing up with suspension (i think you should soften it)
4. Try moving some weight backwards to achieve 40/60 ratio
5. I think you should find a bigger road area to test it in a bigger speeds, it could behave very differently.
6. Maybe the engine is just to powerfull and you should ad either more weight or changinng the engine but before that do the thing here ^^^
I think thats all of my ideas.
I think the biggest traction benefit would come from the suspension, it seemed like it is just so lightweight that the dampening speed and springrate needs to be super soft in order to transfer more of the bumps into the suspension. when it slips into a higher gear with the throttle pinned, the excess energy should be stored in the rear suspension rather than the tire surface which is causing it to break loose. this will help prevent traction loss during launching and shifting under throttle, aero will not really effect launching but could help maintain traction at speed but should not be relied on. you dont really want to add weight or remove power, but shifting weight whenever possible is ideal for minor balance adjustments. and instead of changing engines, you just need to play with the throttle linearity as well as the torque rampup rate. once it gets dialed in, the steering linearity should be modified to reduce the twitchyness of direction change. one last thing, it might be a good idea to put a layer of material under the tire foam to prevent rim damage if the tire blows off again.
Definitely needs rubber tires. The foams are not the optimal option in this situation
commercials in the 1960's touted the value of "oval" tires as they had better grip on the road in rain and ice. thanks again for another treat video.
Arduino Traction Control and real tyres, nice job by the way
Would surely take this project to another level, but should swap the body for a truck to fit the arduino :)
@Arthur to fit it where exactly?
Uh yeah no more foams
imu + tuned pid loops
Closed loop arduino? Might be a bit tough especially as different surfaces will require a different type of input.
Man I wish I was even a quarter as talented as this guy is.
I'd suggest finding some tires with tread as it'll help with the rough road surface. As others have mentioned, hard rubber can handle high speeds and softer springs may help.
But hard rubber results in losing traction,right?
@@alphonsjose6812 It does, but having tread rather than being proper slicks should minimise the issue on non-smooth surfaces.
As an owner of a nitro Schumacher fusion I was so impressed!! Makes me wish they sold these so I could get one! SUBSCRIBED..
Hello,
If you have a differential gear between the front and rear axles, then change the ratio so that the front is about 2 to 5% more speed than the rear.
With that he might drive better straight ahead and does not break out so quickly in curves.
The car stays on track better.
Thank you for your many great videos.
Warm greetings from Germany Joachim
love your videos i used to race back in the 80s- 90s when we had lots of tracks here in california , we used Bolink racing tires , the foam compound was very soft and very light weight material, also you need to fully glue them to the rim , as they tend to expand away from the rim , this misshapes the tire and brakes your contact patch with the road. also being light weight material helps as centrifugal force is less on the tire material. once that is fixed the body adds considerable down force , we would never run high speeds without it as it would stick the car to the ground and aerodynamics were a big part of traction. good luck
To run straight: Toe adjustments, caster, suspension setup, chassis balance and running with the body on for aerodynamics and traction. Slow setting gel super glue for you to be able to glue the tires better and syringe type tips for you to reach the inside of the tires. Hope that helps.
EXACTLY 💯. Toe and camber
jonny these videos are beyond satisfying to watch 10/10
Back in the day when I did slot cars, we ran them on foam tires with a glue substance for traction. Maybe find some of that glue?
I thought this too but the dowside might be that it's going to pick up stones and ruin the tires
on clean roadways it could work, but anywhere else they would get real dirty real fast
Or just give up with foams and use rubber tires
@@itchyprince3793 there is nothing wrong with foam tires, its the application of the cyanocryciliates used to hold them onto the rims, CA glues are great for ribbed tires or tires with minimal bonding or grooved surfaces, your dealing with a tire now that needs complete surface to surface bonding
instead use this
list of items needed: rubber cement, mineral spirits, gloves, bowl nose plug lol
optional items : mountain bike inner tube and scissors
make sure the tire is not bored to the diameter of the rim but leave it as is, make the rim about 10mm larger than the center of the tire, then use contact rubber cement, coat the rim and the inner surface of the tire, let it dry thoroughly do all 4 tires and rims at the same time, this gets a bit messy, when dry take mineral spirits and dunk the tire into it and quickly stretch the tire over the rim, the mineral spirits will soften the contact rubber cement only for a few seconds so be quick about it, once the tire is on the rim let it sit overnight true the tires on the rims once trued you will be good to go, if you want to increase the traction on dusty hard packed surfaces or concrete, then take the inner tube and cut a piece that measures just about 3mm shy of the overall contact surface of your trued foam tires, again repeat the mounting of the above specifications on this time , you will need to fabricate a half cone basically the diameter of the tires after truing, and then coat the contact surface with rubber cement and the inner side of the inner tube, let dry completely, then dunk the inner tube in mineral spirits and use the tire horn to pull tube over the tire making rubber capped tires, I used to race 8th scale BMT's and later on Serpents and this was a standard in onroad high speed racing and helped immensely with traction, the benefit of rubber capping is you can use tire grip additives, the downside you cant true them save that of side wall truing,
@@AUGRaijin wow that is a lot of info
My suggestion is to free up your a-arms so the suspension works as intended. It might not be a bad idea to have it a little bit softer and more ground clerance. Tires, not foam and if you can find a road that is somewhat dust free. Very nice project, nice to watch. Good luck!
NSX! Such a good choice. Loving this car, the more and more i see it!
Dude! That car is the perfect candidate for an EDF! Right on the top dead center. You've got some surplus power so use it to induce some down force. There's a 70mm fan that has 1.8kg of thrust. I half ass tried it on my short course truck and I could almost drive on a wall. It was so quick that you could hardly track it with your eyes. But before I went all the way with that build, I got into quad rotors and haven't looked back. Ya, like another dude said, get some proper belted tires and glue the crap out of them. Nice car! Cheers!
Wow, I need one 😱 there should be an FPV racing league for these.
Always a good day when Jonathan uploads!
Video title should be "Worlds First 150 Pound 1/10 Scale R/C!"
Front toe out, and a steering gyro.
Nice work.
Please make mini 3 piece split wheels in billet aluminium!
Suggestions: Improve camber angle (front and rear) - consider tyre based on surface - consider perhaps adding a spoiler to increase down force (not sure of the effectiveness of a splitter or spoiler at this size) - perhaps consider loading on the tires (again at this scale not sure). Best and only suggestions I have.
Perhaps add more weight to help with the traction problem? Love how it turned out 👌
I also suggest adding some weight to it, I know this seems a little counter intuitive as light means fast but too light and you lose control, balance the power to the weight so it stills goes fast and stays on the ground.
He needs to do some more suspension tuning to keep all 4 tires planted
Hey, I’ve always loved your videos and your projects are truly fascinating. I wanted to give my input on how to improve your car that others may have not said;
-Softer suspension. The bumps on the road are much bigger relative to the car. Also softer suspension allows for smoother application of power to the ground. But as with anything, just not too much.
-Ground effects. I noticed your under tray is smooth but has a lot of potential to really suck the car down. The car has to be moving to benefit from this but it can really have an effect if done right.
-Think about center of gravity. You can get a few kitchen scales and see what your weight distribution is and make sure it’s not to one side and, ideally, 40% front.
Better tires and all that jazz the other people said but also look into tire softening compounds. The foam may be ok if you lightly spread something like acetone on them to really soften them up. Thank you for the many hours of entertainment you’ve brought us!
What lathe are you using?
I'm thinking of buying one myself but haven't found the right one yet.
Brandless Chinese mini lathe from the looks of it. Likely modified to run within proper spec.
Its an Optimum, I have the same one, with some modifications they are great bench top lathes.
Check out 'This Old Tony' (channel) for his vids on a mini lathe.
Some suggestion: You can decrease the gear ratio in the transmission. If you see, the jump from 1st gear to 2nd gear is quite extensive meaning that when the car changes from 1st to 2nd gear along with a high torque motor, the wheel will slip a little and hence decrease the traction.
You can decrease the width of the front wheel so that the efficiency while turning is high. If you see , it is easier to turn a smaller width wheel than a bigger width wheel because of it’s low surface area contact. Secondly, more is the area, less is the pressure of a medium.
You can even add counterweights at the front of the car but not a lot as while braking the centre of gravity will shift to front end. This counterweight will counter the opposing acceleration force that tends to make the car’s centre of gravity at the back end.
Again, fantastic job to create a automatic transmission car. Commendable job .
Plenty of suggestions for this build already... so may I be so bold as to ask you to do a rock crawler or similar in the near future... 😃
I have the exact same radio. It has a gyro feature built into the receiver. It really helps keep the car straight with crazy power, plus you already have it, so no extra expense. Also use Shoe Goo thinned with solvent on foam tires. Increases grip AND life. I suggest using 1/8 onroad tires, as they are designed for the speeds you're going to reach, as well as being more durable than those, and being much easier to replace. I'm experimenting with an old set of 1/8 onroad wheels, onto which I'm going to cast solid urethane rubber. Probably heavy, but it's got to be better for speed runs. I wish you could still buy capped foams, but the thinned Shoe Goo soaks into the foam, increasing its strength and durability.
first time tuning into the chanel i was so plesed when you put the nsx body on great choice ten stars
adjust throttle curve, heated rubber tires (as the ones we useon 1/4 scale, but probably too big), fix the wheels alignment, front toe out, rear toe in, and go from there. As usual, nice content, as I'm also an rc lover.
JohnnyQ90: traction is a problem 🤔
me, after watching a drift event: I see no problem 😐👍
While drifting, you still have a lot of traction..
@@RC-ty5ym Most drift cars don't have the insane torque to weight ratio as this car.
@@ryanwalton986 That might be true, but it's completely senseless to drive the Schumacher touring car out of the video with 2wd...
Love these builds, the trial and error, working things out, making new wheels etc. So so good
From the aftermath of the shredded wheel, you can see that it ripped the foam only where it was glued around the edge of the wheel. If you glue the entire surface somehow that won't be an issue anymore.
As for not having traction, you could either try different tyres or make the car heavier
Been racing rc cars some years ago... There are rubber capped foam tires that can help.
Back out the slipper clutch some (if you even have one.. if you don't, you need one)
Plus I seen that the tire exploded in the center and not around the edges. You need to coat both the rim completely AND the inside of the tire liberally with tire glue, not just the edges.
It makes a bit of a mess after pushing the tire on but you can clean that up with acetone.
And keep in mind the surface you are running on is dusty and gravely... Try a new parking lot or even your nearest race track might have a carting track they will let you run on.
Nice build for sure.. and good luck 👍👍👍
damn,I want to buy a RC car now
Go make one😉
Plenty of kits. You can get rollers you can build up yourself or RTR (ready to runs)
Sorry. But you don't need 1000s in machinist tools to do this. You would be surprised what you can do with basic tools a grinder and a soldering iron. That's where I started.. working up to buying a lathe soon . Please don't knock down anyone's ideas ,passion, or dreams.
He might even work at a shop where he might be able to borrow time on equipment.
@@marcialdospuforini1197 why so hostile? Saying to go make one doesn't necessarily mean go machine one from scratch. There's plenty of parts kits to build up your own RC exactly how you like. Ease up buddy.
@@marcialdospuforini1197 Not at all, 3D printing and glue go a really long way. If you need parts that require a lathe just go to machine shop and order the parts, no need to own the machine yourself.
DO NOT use a gyro because as soon as the car darts off in one direction, it will try and counter steer itself repeatably until it spins out and that can be disastrous at high speeds. Also, steer clear from using rubber tyres as they expand and eventually - if not instantly - break especially with the power and drivetrain you are using. I found that adjusting your dual rate (steering input) on the control makes it alot easier to handle in a straight line. Lastly, find a clear stretch of road without debris, potholes, cats eyes etc. Love your videos, I have been watching them since the micro supercharger. Keep it up!
Hair ties for battery hold downs. Never would've imagined that one.
As far as traction: Seems like the tire material is too hard/brittle. Like taking a shopping cart over gravel. VERY rough. Perhaps a pneumatic type of tire would be better?
That NSX body put a smile on my face :)
Tip on how to get better traction:
Use your finger and not your toe to control the throttle trigger.
kek XD
A few issues:
- Foam tyres are never good on rough surfaces (they just tear up, as you found), maybe get some rubber tyres with modest tread for on that road. Foam is good for painted asphalt and carpet.
- Steering angle is too aggressive for the higher speeds, I found when I put a 2-speed in my nitro RC that the higher speeds required me to reduce the throw on the steering servo. Modern radios can do this electronically.
- Put the body on the car, you will find less yaw sensitivity with the body fitted.
- Loosen up the rear diff, tighten the front. That way front will stay square on takeoff, reduces torque steer on turning too
Use rubber tires, add weight to the car. Improve gearing --> Longer gears.
Nice project! Buddy now you need Spektrum AVC radio and receiver. you can adjust tour throttle exponential curve and adjust the stability system to make your car somewhat controllable.
Imagine makin a 6 speed 4x4 with traction control.
pointless. it's brushless. learn about how brushless motors make gears obsolete.
@ do you mean gearboxes or gears in general?
The body provides downforce/ traction. Love your videos.
you are amazing dude! Your fabrication skills are world class.
well in real life racing (drag racing), you would modify rear toe IN slightly to track straighter. You could also soften rear springs to allow the car to "squat" and absorb some of the instant torque your delivering. Another addition would be a Gyro system to help control the torque steer from the rear. I agree with Tiporari that exponential on your controller should be adjusted for a smoother launch. Also, look into RUBBER tires, and if traction is needed, you can soften them with chemicals such as what's done with race tires in the real world. A belted tire would also be suggested as they can absorb some of the wild torque, and spread it across the tire evenly. Good luck! You are on the right path! My son and I love your videos, and hope you get the outcome your looking for :)
φίλε στην Ελλάδα είσαι??? Είσαι μεγάλο μυαλο!!! μπράβο χαίρομαι πολύ για εσένα!
Suggestions for improved traction.
Start with tightening the front diff to where if you hold both outdrives you can just turn it by hand, loosen the rear diff to the point it is almost free.
This should stop the car wanting to spin out so easily.
Other things that may help try adding some exponential to your throttle and steering to make them a little softer and less aggressive, possibly adding a gyro or AVC system to help with traction control and stability issues.
Also some good belted rubber tires with closed cell foam inserts and a bit of wheel balancing will help tremendously, having done it during my years racing 1/10 offroad it is worth it especially at the kinds of wheel speeds you will get out of the 3 speed transmission.
awesome electric three speed setup
You have some serious skills my friend!
That's a really nice build, You make me wish I had the equipment to bring my ideas to life- good work.
I noticed the tyre gave in where it wasn't glued and so think that just gluing the whole inner tyre surfaces to the wheels might stop the tyres exploding- as for traction look at different shore ratings and if your planning on going 130mph+ stick to foams is the advice I got from another you tube speed runner. All the best.
My guess would be to go with rubber (preferably belted) instead of foam as others have suggested. And the least porous and cleanest road/surface you can find. Great stuff!!!
Hello J!
Firstly i just wanted to say how much I enjoy your uploads and full respect for what you do bruv. I think solid rubber tyres would help
Also because of the weight in relation to the short wheel you will always struggle with balance but its a pleasure to watch whatever the results.
All the best and dont stop please.
Alex
Birmingham Uk
Good look matey
Weight in relation to short wheelbase is what i meant.
Running with the bodyshell on the chassis will help tremendously with the traction and how the car handles.
For a simple methode, use soft and wider tires for rear. Use narrow and hard tires for front. Its make more better. I hope this methode can help you. Btw, good job!
A few things to consider. Tractor pulling and drag racing. Tractor pulling has the opposite effect, you dont have enough weight:power low end. Drag racing has under inflated tyres, hard to do with solid rubber. Also consider some form of gear limiting based on traction loss?? Its almost like you need to rethink the gear ratios. It could do with less aggression in first gear but its a very hard task to get that perfect balance without a bucket load of R&D.
Excellent Build. I suggest more power for more traction
💪🏽😎 thats fast I think that will beat your evo
This man was whipping it
Fun fact: Your RC Car may be a little underweight for the amount of torque that it is putting out. Fun vids!
Why did you decide to machine the wheels to spec rather than printing them to spec? Love these car projects!
Because 3d printed parts are rarely completely true. There is always some form of z-wobble. At high speed this would be noticeable.
But wait! Ahh that makes sense. I’ve never 3D printed anything functional so I didn’t know that! Thanks!
tolerances on a lathe are much tighter then 3D printing
Traction is always a problem with rc cars. Your car is awesome. 1st I’ve seen with gears. Could you craft some tyres out of car tyre rubber or maybe even better quality would be airplane tyre. Pls try again as the story is still unfinished 😁 tv boat with gears would be nice and traction not so much a problem. Maybe a world record attempt speed. I know you can do that with gears. Sometimes people wire around wheels to stop them from ballooning. Americans seem to get better tyres than I’ve seen. Keep it up your skills and patience is exceptional 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Worth buying a set of racing rubber tyres and rims, gluing and balancing. Racing tyres have a decent compound for optimum grip at specified temperatures and they have a fibre belt in them and special foam inserts to ensure even contact patches. The RC club I know makes you glue the tyres on site to make sure you are not using any different inner foam also for competitive gain.
Nobody knows how to traction train this beast, I doubt there is even a way without mad spending on electronics.... I am just holding on for the next vid. Thank You!
I'd like to see this on a track with some softer tires. One thing we used to do in racing, was to belt our own soft compounded tires. It prevented ballooning and catastrophic failures like yours, but it makes balancing the tires harder.
Gyroscopic steering control it’s easier and useful for powerful rc cars on speed runs for this reason, nice work by the way
This car is incredible! Not sure about sure compounds, but maybe some sort of stability management would help overall? When you have that much power to tame, sometimes one needs a little bit of help ;)
Go with rubber tires not foam rubber, narrowed suspension didn't help handling either. Try wider rims and rubber tires, you can offset the rims so they don't stick out further. Play with the spring rate of the shocks as well! Awesome car great work! 👍
Another useful thing to do, is to have wider rear tires than front tires. This inherently gives more understeer to the car, which helps when the rear is this lively. A lot of 1/8 RWD buggies do that, and those handle extremely well (although a bit understeery sometimes at high speeds).
Nice work with the combined additive/subtractive manufacturing process on the rims, it definitely yielded good results. 👍
It looked like the tyre that parted company had spun on the plastic rim and welded to the rim in a couple of places which would allow for uncontrolled distortion "bubbles" to form which resulted in the tyre tearing itself apart.
The first thing I would try would be applying a thin coat of urethane glue to a new tyre before fitting to the rim before exploring more expensive options.
Cheers Eric
Based on the amount of torque that little baby has, you could probably slip on monster truck alloys and rubbers (rc, of course) and the pickup will still be awesome. 😊
Very nice project brother! Looks really cool!
Rubber tires with foam filler inside, glue properly and then a little grape soda sprayed on the track you intend to run on.
Cheap version VHT spray.
You'll have to play with which foam insert works best for your application, weight and balance.
The foam tires you made could work if you glued the whole inside surface of the tires to the rims.
They will still chunk and come apart with use though.
Cleaning up the rims for mounting new tires will be a pain as well.
That's all I have from memory of my RC car days.
foam tires=carpet
rubber tiers=asphalt
impressive rig.
I love the NSX body it looks great
As someone who is into RC cars and has a few of them you should definitely just buy the tires at least. The wheels you could probably make yourself (the ones you had seemed to do fine), but having good road tires will completely change how it handles.
if you are going to continue to use foam tires on that surface i suggest putting a bead of glue around the wall of the tires to stiffen them up a bit. also there's traction compound for foam tires
Ciao Johnny, sono stato a parecchie gare di auto elettriche RC e *tutti* utilizzavano un additivo sulle ruote in foam che si attiva col calore. Le mettevano su dei rotori con dei rulli che le comprimevano a bassa velocità con una lampadina vicino e aggiungevano pian piano un additivo che serviva per aumentare notevolmente il grip.
Hi Johnny, I've been at a lot of races for electric RC cars and before the race everybody had their foam tires rolling on these slow rotors with rollers adding an activator that activates with heat (light bulbs) the grip of the tires.
Probabilmente il motore comunque spinge un po' troppo... Sui modelli 1/8 e 1/16 trovare il connubio esatto tra peso e potenza del motore è fondamentale per avere delle prestazioni utilizzabili... Ciò non toglie che anche con un motore potente la bravura del pilota faccia la differenza e ovviamente però un motore molto potente da adito ad una finestra di sensibilità molto minore che uno di potenza inferiore
Le ruote in foam sono ottime per l'asfalto ma durante le gare le piste in asfalto venivano pulite ogni 2/3 gare per non intaccare di polvere le ruote "attivate" e le ruote venivano rasate prima di ogni gara per togliere lo strato superficiale.
Adding to the already good comments down below, I would say a bit more toe-in on front and rear axles to aid in high speed stability. It may seem like aerodynamics at this scale wouldn't make a large difference but it does. Add a larger front splitter and more rear wing angle. You have plenty of power to overcome the added drag. Put the body on!
3d Printing parts for an RC car is awesome.
Managed to wreck a part on my Tamiya car. i could have bought the sprue with the part on it for around 14 € i think. Instead, i modelled the part in CAD and printed it. Not sure if that was the quickest solution, but sure the most fun solution.
I don't know diddly squat about RC cars, but that foam looks like it just pills up into rolly dust when you're cutting/abrading it. So on a road surface (which if you go by scale it would be like a road car on slicks trying to drive on rip rap) I really can't see it working. There's got to be some kind of super soft rubber treaded tires out there that are air filled. Probably get much better compliance and traction out of that. And if they've got a stretchy carcass you might get a lot of expansion, which at lower speeds might cause a reduction of torque to the wheels (from essentially raising your gearing) before you even react to the wheelspin, which may make it easier to deal with. Plus at high speed you'd get a bit more gear, like on a fuel car. You'd have to balance that with a decent sidewall for handling, of course. Absurdly good work as always.
Big wing and canards! Probably wouldn't actually do much but it would look cool
🎉World record nice nice nice hyper car speed😳😱🤯
Get slick tyres ,from drag rc car for rear ,sand em down to fit wheels and body . For front try a tyre with deep thread and less wider from the rear wheels . Should help . Great videos btw
for more traction, widen your rear wheels, create grooves on your rims so as not to drive out the glue when you box the tire and use a flexible neoprene-type glue, create an insert in your tires (by making them in several parts) to stiffen the rubber in the most important rotations, the distribution of mass must correspond to your distribution of motricity, taking into account mass transfers. It's enough for this time have fun
;)
I have 2 suggestions for you. 1. Don't run foam tires on rough asphalt. I am surprised they lasted as long as they did with the sharp turns and speeds you were going. Maybe run a rubber tire with foam inserts. They should last a bit longer. 2. RC cars depend on downforce to get traction. You had no body on the car or a wing on the right for any downforce. Put the body on the car and put a wing on the back and you should do much better....especially at higher speeds.
Good work my friend
I am a Brazilian and i really like you work!!