To make it more real, cover it in rust, make it cold outside, and give yourself 1 inches of space to work. Or do as I do. To remove the fastener...Take 5 of your tools and throw them away. Sit in the corner for 4 hours. Take a hammer and bust up the area around the fastener. Make sure your finger gets cut. Then, weld a nut on it, making sure to overheat something next to the bolt. Make sure you strip the treads on that welded nut, and then, go out and buy a cobalt drill bit (Way bigger than the fastener) and drill out everything, ruining the part. Then, order a new part. Easy peazy! :) Seriously though, I've used the torx bit hammered in the hole several times before. For me, the ez-outs either don't grab, or they shatter. But it's probably because I have cheap ones.
My sentiment exactly, doing the suggested " unscrewing" in a tight space,on a rusty bolt rarely works as one wishes.It ends usually with the screw head broken evenly ,flush with a surface
Thank you so much! My boyfriend and I were struggling with a stubborn stripped screw for HOURS. Went home, searched for help on TH-cam, came across your video, went back, tried one of your suggestions and BAM out in 1 minute! I am so grateful for your help sir!
So glad I watched this. Had a $45 dollar crimp tool with interchangeable jaws held in place by two button head socket head cap screws(learned that lingo from you). One of the screws was frozen in place and I stripped hex attempting removal. Tried tapping in a triple square driver per your recommendation and it too stripped. Went to yet a larger diameter triple square driver tapped into place and VOILA, with a distinct click, out came the sticky screw. Until I get a replacement screw, I'll just store the triple square driver with the crimping tool. Made my day.
Some good choices. One thing to remember is esp with cars, you might have very little clearance so hammering or using an impact wrench might not even be possible.
It's not even just cars. MOST stripped screws, bolts and nuts are in tight places, because they are harder to properly reach in the first place. Yet, most examples have a cleanly accessible bolt... In my case, the hex screw is in a toddler three-wheel step, in a hole, surrounded by plastic. I'm not a guy with multiple bits ratchet bits of every kind either, so sacrificial bits are not my forte. I don't have a welding kit either. In fact, the sacrificial hex key (the low-quality kind coming with whatever purchase you make, like the freaking wheels of the very step in my case) being glued to the bolt seems the best option...
Tried your star hex into my hex bolt hammered in unscrewed worked perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No more drilling for me!!!! Great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done! Cutting the groove slit into the faster with a Dremel or a drill to cut as deep as you can then using a wide flat screwdriver or chisel to extract is one of the best hacks with limited tools when all else fails. :)
Been trying to get a hex bolt loose for 3 days until I came across this. Just so happen to have a torx bit socket set on hand. Worked easy the first time. Thanks bro
Thanks for the help ! Had a couple of stripped Allen hex bolts that I couldn't get out. found something close that could fit, and hammered it in a bit... was able to get 'em right out !
I love the video. Most of the techniques used here are the common techniques I generally use. There's only one caveat to any of this is if you are working with clearance issues.
That’s my issue lol, I’m doing plugs on my Acura MDX and I did 5 of them already and they all have these hex screws but the last one is stripped and it’s at the front so I have like 0 space to work with 😂
Yeah!!!!! You are a genius. It worked. I've been trying to remove this f#cking screw forever!!! Countless videos and this one worked!!! Thank you!!!! Dude. Thanks.
I've got a rounded out M8 Triple Square Socket bolt to deal with, I think I'll look for a slightly bigger sized Hex bit and mallet that in before using the impact driver to try take it off. Interesting tricks and techniques, thanks for sharing !! A great and informative video.
I stripped one of these metric hex bolts by using imperial wrench on a hex cap bolt with loctite on it. When I was about to use one of these destructive methods you suggested, I recalled I have a pair of Vampilers and it worked.
I use the torx method most often. Sometimes I will use the left hand drill bit to slightly drill the hole larger to go up a size in torx. Hammer it in about 1/8th of an inch. Take a 3/8 impact and feather the trigger while pressing hard on the back of the tool. Works most of the time. I find this works best with electronic impacts since they often can be made to go slower.
I've got an air impact driver. Is it a bit dangerous to use of these with a torx bit to remove stuck countersunk bolts? I don't want to make the situation worse than it already is. I could buy an electric driver with variable speed if it is more likely to work.
Just wanted to say big thanks for this video it helped me out I used the Torx bit and hammer and impact gun to remove allen key head cap from throttle body so thanks again
Thanks for the very helpful tips!! I can now attempt 2 x fastener on the worn disc , on my motorcycle. I never knew the various options. Much appreciated 🙏😊
You never know when you can use these tips. Sway bar links are a good example since they can directly be in the elements with salt and other materials that cause them to rust and round out easier.
They are fairly hardy as it’s just a 3” extension with strain gauges. I’d be more worried about dropping it and cracking the lcd or housing. For what they are they are pretty cheap and highly accurate and I can throw it in my certified one any time to validate it’s still good.
I usually use the torx trick. A more unconventional method I've used was to hit it at an angle with a center punch. The point of the punch will dig into the screw, and the sudden shock works like an impact driver to break loose the fastener. You may need to hit it several times, working your way around the outside edge of the head.
Only problem with the pliers and grinder method is these socket Allen caps are usually recessed inside something so best bet most of the time is a torx or triple square bit socket but all of these are great methods good job Chris @ClientGraphics
Yep the mechanic I take my car to has 'accidentally' completely butchered my recessed M8 brake disc screw (highly suspicious as he's very experienced), so when I went to replace my disks I hit a brick wall but I actually have a T45 bit in my tool box to try on it tomorrow!
Here’s an old Red Green quote (you’ve probably heard one of his sayings like “A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t”) but this one fits this situation “Remember, I’m pulling for you. We’re all in this together”! Lol
OMG! So glad I found this. I'm putting together a monitor stand for working at home and TWO of the hex screws were stripped. Since they were really small, I was able to use some ordinary pliers from a generic tool kit I already had.
Wow! You know a lot! I'm still trying to learn one screw from the other. 3 hours today trying to remove screw from top of doorframe. I have cussed many times
Thanks so much for this video! Saved my butt on time, trying to simply remove some screws that were torqued down by the Hulk in some crappy Chinese manufacturing plant. So frustrating!
I had a unique situation where a Holster I had was attached with Hex heads on a pancake head screw was striped. I ended up taking a dremel tool to cut out a groove to then take a flat head screwdriver to loosen it. Worked Perfectly. The screw was probably over tightened by the last owner and maybe held in place with some loctite.
I came back to this video to tell you that: After scouting the internet for 2 fucking years, the triple square FUCKING WORKS. The clearance is 5” it was impossible to drive anything in, any bolt extractor would be too long. But you came along with the mighty triple square. I thought i would spend hundreds to get it out but sir you saved me.
I have a Allen bolt that’s stripped on the fork of my bike(Moto). lm Gona have to try these methods you used. Luckily it’s just one. Going to replace with hex heads when I get it removed. I tried welding a hex sock onto it, but it broke off. Unsure of what type of metal it is and I didn’t want to leave burn marks on the rim. Thanks for these demos 👍🏼
I've always used a hex bit and Hammered it down in the hole. I took out a exhaust manifold bolt that had snapped in half leaving the remnants in the valve head body, i drilled out a hole just big enough to fit the bit in snug and the rest was easy day. Have used that method several times now. Love your vids
The only thing I would add is that you might find an imperial allen key works as an intermediate in a rounded out metric socket head. For example I have a M8 rounded out screw which needs an 6mm allen key but a 1/4" (6.35mm) would be easier to hammer in there than a 7mm allen key.
Good advice here. Recently had a 5mm button head cap screw that someone put excessive red loctite on the thread. Tried several methods and ended up cutting off parts of the button head with a grinding wheel to make flats so that I could finally remove with vice grips.
If the torx bit doesn’t work, I found that a flathead also works extremely well, if not better for some cases. I didn’t have a torx bit big enough, so I hammered in a flat head and it worked first try
Just thought of a few more tips. In the real world it's likely to happen when you've got corrosion seizing the threads too. Use some penetrant anti-rust fluid up to 24 hours before. WD40 will work in a pinch but something like Boeshield although expensive works really well. Increasing torque and reducing friction are keys. And induction heaters can work well and more safely than blow torches to break the bind. Expand the bolt with heat and then quench it with water to rapidly contract and break that adhesion.
Thanks. I ended up drilling out the sunken 8mm hex and then hammering on a 12mm triple square; the bugger came off once I'd got the ugga dugga onto it. 😊
Not a real world test. Try it on a real car that has seen ten winters in Minnesota. These were all clean threads. When I did a brake job on my '14 car, the threads on the caliper were all brown rusted. Fortunately it was a bolt head.
This is exactly the video I needed, I have two stripped and frozen Allen fasteners holding a thermostat in my motorcycle that has sat for nearly a decade… unfortunately all I have are the stripped Allen extractors and my Allen heads are too far gone or I don’t have the proper size, but I just can’t get the damn things out. Looks like I need to take a trip to the hardware store 😞
This is really good. I have countersunk hex slot bolts they I want to get off. The hex slots are rounded so I'm going to try the torx bit method. Can you use an air powered impact driver or is that too aggressive? You can't control the speed of the impact driver. I'd buy an electric one if that was safer to use. I do have an impact drill so would that work as well as a dedicated impact driver?
UPDATE: I couldn't find the torx tools so ended up cutting the slot and using the flat screwdriver, as much as anything because it was a tight space on a rotating cylinder so couldn't get enough purchase. Now I just have to figure out the dimensions for the replacement bolts...
The only one I really didn’t get to physically preform was the easy out or screw extractor but it was pretty easy to turn what was 5 easy ways into 10 ways that aren’t fun to always preform in the field and may or may not be easy.
hey man great video... I want to ask you though what triple square are you using in the video and also what mm hex is that you are trying to remove? thanks man!
To make it more real, cover it in rust, make it cold outside, and give yourself 1 inches of space to work. Or do as I do. To remove the fastener...Take 5 of your tools and throw them away. Sit in the corner for 4 hours. Take a hammer and bust up the area around the fastener. Make sure your finger gets cut. Then, weld a nut on it, making sure to overheat something next to the bolt. Make sure you strip the treads on that welded nut, and then, go out and buy a cobalt drill bit (Way bigger than the fastener) and drill out everything, ruining the part. Then, order a new part. Easy peazy! :) Seriously though, I've used the torx bit hammered in the hole several times before. For me, the ez-outs either don't grab, or they shatter. But it's probably because I have cheap ones.
My sentiment exactly, doing the suggested " unscrewing" in a tight space,on a rusty bolt rarely works as one wishes.It ends usually with the screw head broken evenly ,flush with a surface
LOL!!!!
my entire mood in one comment lol
😂🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you so much! My boyfriend and I were struggling with a stubborn stripped screw for HOURS. Went home, searched for help on TH-cam, came across your video, went back, tried one of your suggestions and BAM out in 1 minute! I am so grateful for your help sir!
Yea. I'm still in the bind
Used a torx bit and the stripped hex nut came out easily. Thanks so much for the tips!
Absolute hero! Worked on a bolt I’d been raging over for hours - thanks!
So glad I watched this. Had a $45 dollar crimp tool with interchangeable jaws held in place by two button head socket head cap screws(learned that lingo from you). One of the screws was frozen in place and I stripped hex attempting removal. Tried tapping in a triple square driver per your recommendation and it too stripped. Went to yet a larger diameter triple square driver tapped into place and VOILA, with a distinct click, out came the sticky screw. Until I get a replacement screw, I'll just store the triple square driver with the crimping tool. Made my day.
Thank you! I was desperate and thinking of buying a whole new bed because of one stripped hex screw but you save me the trouble!
Some good choices. One thing to remember is esp with cars, you might have very little clearance so hammering or using an impact wrench might not even be possible.
People who actually work on stuff and not just make veidos know this.
It's not even just cars. MOST stripped screws, bolts and nuts are in tight places, because they are harder to properly reach in the first place. Yet, most examples have a cleanly accessible bolt... In my case, the hex screw is in a toddler three-wheel step, in a hole, surrounded by plastic. I'm not a guy with multiple bits ratchet bits of every kind either, so sacrificial bits are not my forte. I don't have a welding kit either. In fact, the sacrificial hex key (the low-quality kind coming with whatever purchase you make, like the freaking wheels of the very step in my case) being glued to the bolt seems the best option...
Tried your star hex into my hex bolt hammered in unscrewed worked perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No more drilling for me!!!! Great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done! Cutting the groove slit into the faster with a Dremel or a drill to cut as deep as you can then using a wide flat screwdriver or chisel to extract is one of the best hacks with limited tools when all else fails. :)
this channel deserves 1M really good content, keep up the good work!
Thanks Lord, appreciate the kind words.
Flexing screw head and using flat head screwdriver worked best for me. Great video, thanks for advice
Been trying to get a hex bolt loose for 3 days until I came across this. Just so happen to have a torx bit socket set on hand. Worked easy the first time. Thanks bro
Thank you so much! I used the torx method and it worked like a charm. Great $4 spent.
Thanks for the help ! Had a couple of stripped Allen hex bolts that I couldn't get out. found something close that could fit, and hammered it in a bit... was able to get 'em right out !
Thanks! Drilling out the center of the hex bolt then tapping in a triple square did the trick!
The Torx bit did the trick. It was a bolt/screw for a motorbike fork and it was inset deep. Thanks so much for the great ideas!
On a countersunk screw, the Torx bit method worked like a charm on my first atttempt. Thank you!
I love the video. Most of the techniques used here are the common techniques I generally use. There's only one caveat to any of this is if you are working with clearance issues.
That’s my issue lol, I’m doing plugs on my Acura MDX and I did 5 of them already and they all have these hex screws but the last one is stripped and it’s at the front so I have like 0 space to work with 😂
Guitar truss rod nuts are usually small hex nuts recessed like half an inch into the headstock of the guitar. it's HELL
Yeah!!!!! You are a genius. It worked. I've been trying to remove this f#cking screw forever!!! Countless videos and this one worked!!! Thank you!!!!
Dude. Thanks.
I doubted you for a minute the first couple didn’t work for me but you came thru in the end! Thanks
Finally this worked for me. God bless you!
I removed the damaged torque bolt by hammering a bigger size torx bit inside it and then removed easily.
Yes use one of them when a hex is tripped. Works wonders
I've got a rounded out M8 Triple Square Socket bolt to deal with, I think I'll look for a slightly bigger sized Hex bit and mallet that in before using the impact driver to try take it off. Interesting tricks and techniques, thanks for sharing !! A great and informative video.
Did it work?
I stripped one of these metric hex bolts by using imperial wrench on a hex cap bolt with loctite on it. When I was about to use one of these destructive methods you suggested, I recalled I have a pair of Vampilers and it worked.
This video needs some kind of TH-cam Oscar!
Thanks for the ideas.
if you use the screwdriver technique, using a vise grip on it can give more torque.
This video made me realize i had the equipment i needed thank you
Three sides socket worked great thanks you saved my life ! My Allen bolt rounded on my e46 pressure plate lol
man the torx bit worked awesome! Thank you!
I use the torx method most often. Sometimes I will use the left hand drill bit to slightly drill the hole larger to go up a size in torx. Hammer it in about 1/8th of an inch. Take a 3/8 impact and feather the trigger while pressing hard on the back of the tool. Works most of the time.
I find this works best with electronic impacts since they often can be made to go slower.
I've got an air impact driver. Is it a bit dangerous to use of these with a torx bit to remove stuck countersunk bolts? I don't want to make the situation worse than it already is. I could buy an electric driver with variable speed if it is more likely to work.
Just wanted to say big thanks for this video it helped me out I used the Torx bit and hammer and impact gun to remove allen key head cap from throttle body so thanks again
Thanks for your help. I hammered in a torx bit and was able to unscrew the bolt.
Thanks for the very helpful tips!! I can now attempt 2 x fastener on the worn disc , on my motorcycle. I never knew the various options. Much appreciated 🙏😊
I ran into this problem on my sway bar linkage, next time I'll give these a go. Thank you sir for tips to try in a jam. As always great video.
You never know when you can use these tips. Sway bar links are a good example since they can directly be in the elements with salt and other materials that cause them to rust and round out easier.
Cringed at all the hammering on your digital torque wrench.
They are fairly hardy as it’s just a 3” extension with strain gauges. I’d be more worried about dropping it and cracking the lcd or housing. For what they are they are pretty cheap and highly accurate and I can throw it in my certified one any time to validate it’s still good.
Im glad i wasnt the only one who got shiver down my spine when i saw that
Yeah me too
Me too🥺😳
What about Welding on it lol?
I have started to use a torque wrench to get it right. Great video
that intro got me hyped to remove stripped bolts
I usually use the torx trick.
A more unconventional method I've used was to hit it at an angle with a center punch. The point of the punch will dig into the screw, and the sudden shock works like an impact driver to break loose the fastener. You may need to hit it several times, working your way around the outside edge of the head.
I have not personally tried that method due to time and patience. But I hear it can work.
Thanks for sharing. A good technique to have in the back pocket.
Only problem with the pliers and grinder method is these socket Allen caps are usually recessed inside something so best bet most of the time is a torx or triple square bit socket but all of these are great methods good job Chris @ClientGraphics
For sure that can be the difficulty. Thankfully they make long and extra long torx and triple squares🤣🤣
@@ClientGraphics exactly bro 💯
Yep the mechanic I take my car to has 'accidentally' completely butchered my recessed M8 brake disc screw (highly suspicious as he's very experienced), so when I went to replace my disks I hit a brick wall but I actually have a T45 bit in my tool box to try on it tomorrow!
@@aries6776 best of luck getting that sucker out
Here’s an old Red Green quote (you’ve probably heard one of his sayings like “A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t”) but this one fits this situation
“Remember, I’m pulling for you. We’re all in this together”! Lol
I use the torx bit sockets the most and triple squares the most for stuff like this
They were both really impressive and the triple square was a real fun one to pull and jiggle out. 👌🏻
OMG! So glad I found this. I'm putting together a monitor stand for working at home and TWO of the hex screws were stripped. Since they were really small, I was able to use some ordinary pliers from a generic tool kit I already had.
Wow! You know a lot! I'm still trying to learn one screw from the other.
3 hours today trying to remove screw from top of doorframe.
I have cussed many times
Yes mate thanks for the advice that little suckers out now thanks 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really good video brother, this helped me out a lot. Thanks!
Thanks! I used one of your suggestions and it worked!
Thanks so much for this video! Saved my butt on time, trying to simply remove some screws that were torqued down by the Hulk in some crappy Chinese manufacturing plant. So frustrating!
I had a unique situation where a Holster I had was attached with Hex heads on a pancake head screw was striped. I ended up taking a dremel tool to cut out a groove to then take a flat head screwdriver to loosen it. Worked Perfectly. The screw was probably over tightened by the last owner and maybe held in place with some loctite.
Thank you so much for saving my bike brakes.
I came back to this video to tell you that:
After scouting the internet for 2 fucking years, the triple square FUCKING WORKS. The clearance is 5” it was impossible to drive anything in, any bolt extractor would be too long. But you came along with the mighty triple square. I thought i would spend hundreds to get it out but sir you saved me.
Man thanks a lot, I had hard time with stripped hex 3mm bolt probably rounded close to 1/8" bolt and the T15 torx did the trick! :))
Why is this so relaxing to watch....😆. Anywho great video
Thank you for sharing these tip. Very helpful!
I have a Allen bolt that’s stripped on the fork of my bike(Moto). lm Gona have to try these methods you used. Luckily it’s just one. Going to replace with hex heads when I get it removed.
I tried welding a hex sock onto it, but it broke off. Unsure of what type of metal it is and I didn’t want to leave burn marks on the rim.
Thanks for these demos 👍🏼
Video sent from the heavens 🥲
im so jealous of this tool collection
I've always used a hex bit and Hammered it down in the hole. I took out a exhaust manifold bolt that had snapped in half leaving the remnants in the valve head body, i drilled out a hole just big enough to fit the bit in snug and the rest was easy day. Have used that method several times now. Love your vids
Nice job on this great video. Great how to ideas.
Hammering in a Torx is my go to for sure. Had to do that many many times before.
Hands down the best video out there. Thank you!
The only thing I would add is that you might find an imperial allen key works as an intermediate in a rounded out metric socket head. For example I have a M8 rounded out screw which needs an 6mm allen key but a 1/4" (6.35mm) would be easier to hammer in there than a 7mm allen key.
Got one unstuck by using the torx bit, thanks for the tip.
Thanks bro trying to fix my motorcycle and I have stripped exhaust bolts! Now I have a plan!
Exhaust bolts heat and use a loosen and tightening method.
Excellent vid mate, really helpful
Good advice here. Recently had a 5mm button head cap screw that someone put excessive red loctite on the thread. Tried several methods and ended up cutting off parts of the button head with a grinding wheel to make flats so that I could finally remove with vice grips.
sounds like the screws I stripped on my planer blade bar!
Thanks this video helped me 2 years later..torx bit worked for me
Thanks a lot the triple square worked for an over tightened factory drive shaft hex bolt that had loctite on it. Got me out of a jam.
I have a 6, 7, 10, 12 and 16" Knipex Plyers.. they are AMAZING.
awesome thanks , worked on a bolt on a guitar I needed to remove .
If the torx bit doesn’t work, I found that a flathead also works extremely well, if not better for some cases. I didn’t have a torx bit big enough, so I hammered in a flat head and it worked first try
Great video man, very informative
Thank you for this demo
Don’t forget the wonderful impact screwdrivers. :)
Yup, definitely a must have item. I bought one years ago to remove fastener on older motorcycles.
I see you tightening it with the cobra pliers and I’m thinking, hmm...what about loosening it with those. Then you do. Ha!
my thoughts too
THANK YOU! Triple Square worked and I didn't have to go buy anything.
Just thought of a few more tips. In the real world it's likely to happen when you've got corrosion seizing the threads too. Use some penetrant anti-rust fluid up to 24 hours before. WD40 will work in a pinch but something like Boeshield although expensive works really well. Increasing torque and reducing friction are keys. And induction heaters can work well and more safely than blow torches to break the bind. Expand the bolt with heat and then quench it with water to rapidly contract and break that adhesion.
Very Nice! Hands on creative solutions to real world problems! Well done! Like always!
Thanks Joe for watching and commenting.
Great video seriously!!!
Thanks. I ended up drilling out the sunken 8mm hex and then hammering on a 12mm triple square; the bugger came off once I'd got the ugga dugga onto it. 😊
This is a great tutorial because my back freestyle scooter afle is stuck and this will suflet work.
Those prices for those stainless steel bolts/screws are freaking amazing. I must be shopping at the wrong ace hardware stores.
I didn't see, but I have noticed that some areas of the country are WAY cheaper than mine!
Not a real world test. Try it on a real car that has seen ten winters in Minnesota. These were all clean threads. When I did a brake job on my '14 car, the threads on the caliper were all brown rusted. Fortunately it was a bolt head.
How did you manage to get it out?
Good video really glad that the XTR is getting alot of use
Kobalt XTR gets used a lot. When I need lots of power and torque it’s my go to 1/4” hex impact.
I think the damaged fastener would come loose if the xtr just looks at it.
Great video!
I've never worked on anything that I needed a triple square for. Good video
Triple square fasteners are commonly found on German vehicles such as Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, and definitely Volkswagen.
Fiat
Excellent video!!
Very advanced technology.
Them first ones are sold here in England under sealey lock on been looking for a video like this to see how good they will be
This is exactly the video I needed, I have two stripped and frozen Allen fasteners holding a thermostat in my motorcycle that has sat for nearly a decade… unfortunately all I have are the stripped Allen extractors and my Allen heads are too far gone or I don’t have the proper size, but I just can’t get the damn things out. Looks like I need to take a trip to the hardware store 😞
This is really good. I have countersunk hex slot bolts they I want to get off. The hex slots are rounded so I'm going to try the torx bit method. Can you use an air powered impact driver or is that too aggressive? You can't control the speed of the impact driver. I'd buy an electric one if that was safer to use. I do have an impact drill so would that work as well as a dedicated impact driver?
The torx/triple square seems like the cheapest and most reasonable option for me. Praying it works
Thank you! You just allowed me to get that screw out and now I can make the repair and go on my trip!
I suspect you've just saved me a huge amount of cash! Thank you for the video and all the options. Looks like torx to the rescue for me.
UPDATE: I couldn't find the torx tools so ended up cutting the slot and using the flat screwdriver, as much as anything because it was a tight space on a rotating cylinder so couldn't get enough purchase. Now I just have to figure out the dimensions for the replacement bolts...
Great Video
Awesome teaching vid ty
These are all good methods
The only one I really didn’t get to physically preform was the easy out or screw extractor but it was pretty easy to turn what was 5 easy ways into 10 ways that aren’t fun to always preform in the field and may or may not be easy.
@@ClientGraphics yep all kinds of ways to skin this kinda cat / problem
Useful info, thanks. Can you do a video on how to do the same on a buttonhead m6x70 mm bolt?
Great, thanks.
Thank you for this
hey man great video... I want to ask you though what triple square are you using in the video and also what mm hex is that you are trying to remove? thanks man!
Internal wrenching socket head cap screw is what I have seen listings for bolt people instead of Allen head. Bolts which is a brand as we know