To make it more real, cover it in rust, make it cold outside, and give yourself 1 inches of space to work. Or do as I do. To remove the fastener...Take 5 of your tools and throw them away. Sit in the corner for 4 hours. Take a hammer and bust up the area around the fastener. Make sure your finger gets cut. Then, weld a nut on it, making sure to overheat something next to the bolt. Make sure you strip the treads on that welded nut, and then, go out and buy a cobalt drill bit (Way bigger than the fastener) and drill out everything, ruining the part. Then, order a new part. Easy peazy! :) Seriously though, I've used the torx bit hammered in the hole several times before. For me, the ez-outs either don't grab, or they shatter. But it's probably because I have cheap ones.
My sentiment exactly, doing the suggested " unscrewing" in a tight space,on a rusty bolt rarely works as one wishes.It ends usually with the screw head broken evenly ,flush with a surface
Thank you so much! My boyfriend and I were struggling with a stubborn stripped screw for HOURS. Went home, searched for help on TH-cam, came across your video, went back, tried one of your suggestions and BAM out in 1 minute! I am so grateful for your help sir!
So glad I watched this. Had a $45 dollar crimp tool with interchangeable jaws held in place by two button head socket head cap screws(learned that lingo from you). One of the screws was frozen in place and I stripped hex attempting removal. Tried tapping in a triple square driver per your recommendation and it too stripped. Went to yet a larger diameter triple square driver tapped into place and VOILA, with a distinct click, out came the sticky screw. Until I get a replacement screw, I'll just store the triple square driver with the crimping tool. Made my day.
Tried your star hex into my hex bolt hammered in unscrewed worked perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No more drilling for me!!!! Great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done! Cutting the groove slit into the faster with a Dremel or a drill to cut as deep as you can then using a wide flat screwdriver or chisel to extract is one of the best hacks with limited tools when all else fails. :)
Been trying to get a hex bolt loose for 3 days until I came across this. Just so happen to have a torx bit socket set on hand. Worked easy the first time. Thanks bro
Some good choices. One thing to remember is esp with cars, you might have very little clearance so hammering or using an impact wrench might not even be possible.
It's not even just cars. MOST stripped screws, bolts and nuts are in tight places, because they are harder to properly reach in the first place. Yet, most examples have a cleanly accessible bolt... In my case, the hex screw is in a toddler three-wheel step, in a hole, surrounded by plastic. I'm not a guy with multiple bits ratchet bits of every kind either, so sacrificial bits are not my forte. I don't have a welding kit either. In fact, the sacrificial hex key (the low-quality kind coming with whatever purchase you make, like the freaking wheels of the very step in my case) being glued to the bolt seems the best option...
Thanks for the help ! Had a couple of stripped Allen hex bolts that I couldn't get out. found something close that could fit, and hammered it in a bit... was able to get 'em right out !
Yeah!!!!! You are a genius. It worked. I've been trying to remove this f#cking screw forever!!! Countless videos and this one worked!!! Thank you!!!! Dude. Thanks.
I've got a rounded out M8 Triple Square Socket bolt to deal with, I think I'll look for a slightly bigger sized Hex bit and mallet that in before using the impact driver to try take it off. Interesting tricks and techniques, thanks for sharing !! A great and informative video.
Just wanted to say big thanks for this video it helped me out I used the Torx bit and hammer and impact gun to remove allen key head cap from throttle body so thanks again
I stripped one of these metric hex bolts by using imperial wrench on a hex cap bolt with loctite on it. When I was about to use one of these destructive methods you suggested, I recalled I have a pair of Vampilers and it worked.
I came back to this video to tell you that: After scouting the internet for 2 fucking years, the triple square FUCKING WORKS. The clearance is 5” it was impossible to drive anything in, any bolt extractor would be too long. But you came along with the mighty triple square. I thought i would spend hundreds to get it out but sir you saved me.
I love the video. Most of the techniques used here are the common techniques I generally use. There's only one caveat to any of this is if you are working with clearance issues.
That’s my issue lol, I’m doing plugs on my Acura MDX and I did 5 of them already and they all have these hex screws but the last one is stripped and it’s at the front so I have like 0 space to work with 😂
Wow! You know a lot! I'm still trying to learn one screw from the other. 3 hours today trying to remove screw from top of doorframe. I have cussed many times
I had a unique situation where a Holster I had was attached with Hex heads on a pancake head screw was striped. I ended up taking a dremel tool to cut out a groove to then take a flat head screwdriver to loosen it. Worked Perfectly. The screw was probably over tightened by the last owner and maybe held in place with some loctite.
I use the torx method most often. Sometimes I will use the left hand drill bit to slightly drill the hole larger to go up a size in torx. Hammer it in about 1/8th of an inch. Take a 3/8 impact and feather the trigger while pressing hard on the back of the tool. Works most of the time. I find this works best with electronic impacts since they often can be made to go slower.
I've got an air impact driver. Is it a bit dangerous to use of these with a torx bit to remove stuck countersunk bolts? I don't want to make the situation worse than it already is. I could buy an electric driver with variable speed if it is more likely to work.
Thanks for the very helpful tips!! I can now attempt 2 x fastener on the worn disc , on my motorcycle. I never knew the various options. Much appreciated 🙏😊
Thanks so much for this video! Saved my butt on time, trying to simply remove some screws that were torqued down by the Hulk in some crappy Chinese manufacturing plant. So frustrating!
I usually use the torx trick. A more unconventional method I've used was to hit it at an angle with a center punch. The point of the punch will dig into the screw, and the sudden shock works like an impact driver to break loose the fastener. You may need to hit it several times, working your way around the outside edge of the head.
They are fairly hardy as it’s just a 3” extension with strain gauges. I’d be more worried about dropping it and cracking the lcd or housing. For what they are they are pretty cheap and highly accurate and I can throw it in my certified one any time to validate it’s still good.
Only problem with the pliers and grinder method is these socket Allen caps are usually recessed inside something so best bet most of the time is a torx or triple square bit socket but all of these are great methods good job Chris @ClientGraphics
Yep the mechanic I take my car to has 'accidentally' completely butchered my recessed M8 brake disc screw (highly suspicious as he's very experienced), so when I went to replace my disks I hit a brick wall but I actually have a T45 bit in my tool box to try on it tomorrow!
Here’s an old Red Green quote (you’ve probably heard one of his sayings like “A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t”) but this one fits this situation “Remember, I’m pulling for you. We’re all in this together”! Lol
You never know when you can use these tips. Sway bar links are a good example since they can directly be in the elements with salt and other materials that cause them to rust and round out easier.
The only thing I would add is that you might find an imperial allen key works as an intermediate in a rounded out metric socket head. For example I have a M8 rounded out screw which needs an 6mm allen key but a 1/4" (6.35mm) would be easier to hammer in there than a 7mm allen key.
I’m assuming you mean the Doyle branded one, right? Yes I have it and the regular Pittsburgh and an older Craftsman USA for fun. Still waiting for the Amazon one to come in so that one is a week or so out🤫
@@ClientGraphics no... www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-professional-adjustable-wrenches-93943.html I believe ones above have better construction than normal Pittsburgh wrenches, perhaps even Doyle
If the torx bit doesn’t work, I found that a flathead also works extremely well, if not better for some cases. I didn’t have a torx bit big enough, so I hammered in a flat head and it worked first try
Just thought of a few more tips. In the real world it's likely to happen when you've got corrosion seizing the threads too. Use some penetrant anti-rust fluid up to 24 hours before. WD40 will work in a pinch but something like Boeshield although expensive works really well. Increasing torque and reducing friction are keys. And induction heaters can work well and more safely than blow torches to break the bind. Expand the bolt with heat and then quench it with water to rapidly contract and break that adhesion.
I've always used a hex bit and Hammered it down in the hole. I took out a exhaust manifold bolt that had snapped in half leaving the remnants in the valve head body, i drilled out a hole just big enough to fit the bit in snug and the rest was easy day. Have used that method several times now. Love your vids
UPDATE: I couldn't find the torx tools so ended up cutting the slot and using the flat screwdriver, as much as anything because it was a tight space on a rotating cylinder so couldn't get enough purchase. Now I just have to figure out the dimensions for the replacement bolts...
OMG! So glad I found this. I'm putting together a monitor stand for working at home and TWO of the hex screws were stripped. Since they were really small, I was able to use some ordinary pliers from a generic tool kit I already had.
Hello there I just subscribed and hit the bell. Yesterday I was working on my drone and it started to round out a hex head. I'm not sure what size fastener this is but it's fairly small. I may try the torx bit if I have one of those. This is not something I can hammer on because the fastener goes into plastic. So perhaps tonight I'll try something on it. Do you have any suggestions ? Thanks. Keith
I have a Allen bolt that’s stripped on the fork of my bike(Moto). lm Gona have to try these methods you used. Luckily it’s just one. Going to replace with hex heads when I get it removed. I tried welding a hex sock onto it, but it broke off. Unsure of what type of metal it is and I didn’t want to leave burn marks on the rim. Thanks for these demos 👍🏼
Not a real world test. Try it on a real car that has seen ten winters in Minnesota. These were all clean threads. When I did a brake job on my '14 car, the threads on the caliper were all brown rusted. Fortunately it was a bolt head.
I do own the metric set of Zeon powerbuilt sockets. The one that comes in the little red tray just never thought about reviewing them. I would have to start collecting a few more damaged socket removal tools. Might be interesting.
All my fastners are usually flush. So I'd have no socket option. i.e. steering wheels, batteries, seat mounts... I'm always looking for the best to get them from the top only?
Thanks. I ended up drilling out the sunken 8mm hex and then hammering on a 12mm triple square; the bugger came off once I'd got the ugga dugga onto it. 😊
hey man great video... I want to ask you though what triple square are you using in the video and also what mm hex is that you are trying to remove? thanks man!
To make it more real, cover it in rust, make it cold outside, and give yourself 1 inches of space to work. Or do as I do. To remove the fastener...Take 5 of your tools and throw them away. Sit in the corner for 4 hours. Take a hammer and bust up the area around the fastener. Make sure your finger gets cut. Then, weld a nut on it, making sure to overheat something next to the bolt. Make sure you strip the treads on that welded nut, and then, go out and buy a cobalt drill bit (Way bigger than the fastener) and drill out everything, ruining the part. Then, order a new part. Easy peazy! :) Seriously though, I've used the torx bit hammered in the hole several times before. For me, the ez-outs either don't grab, or they shatter. But it's probably because I have cheap ones.
My sentiment exactly, doing the suggested " unscrewing" in a tight space,on a rusty bolt rarely works as one wishes.It ends usually with the screw head broken evenly ,flush with a surface
LOL!!!!
my entire mood in one comment lol
😂🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you so much! My boyfriend and I were struggling with a stubborn stripped screw for HOURS. Went home, searched for help on TH-cam, came across your video, went back, tried one of your suggestions and BAM out in 1 minute! I am so grateful for your help sir!
Yea. I'm still in the bind
is he really a boyfriend?
Absolute hero! Worked on a bolt I’d been raging over for hours - thanks!
So glad I watched this. Had a $45 dollar crimp tool with interchangeable jaws held in place by two button head socket head cap screws(learned that lingo from you). One of the screws was frozen in place and I stripped hex attempting removal. Tried tapping in a triple square driver per your recommendation and it too stripped. Went to yet a larger diameter triple square driver tapped into place and VOILA, with a distinct click, out came the sticky screw. Until I get a replacement screw, I'll just store the triple square driver with the crimping tool. Made my day.
Used a torx bit and the stripped hex nut came out easily. Thanks so much for the tips!
Thank you! I was desperate and thinking of buying a whole new bed because of one stripped hex screw but you save me the trouble!
Tried your star hex into my hex bolt hammered in unscrewed worked perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No more drilling for me!!!! Great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done! Cutting the groove slit into the faster with a Dremel or a drill to cut as deep as you can then using a wide flat screwdriver or chisel to extract is one of the best hacks with limited tools when all else fails. :)
Thanks!
Glad I could be helpful in offering options. Super thanks to you!
Flexing screw head and using flat head screwdriver worked best for me. Great video, thanks for advice
Hammering in a Torx is my go to for sure. Had to do that many many times before.
Been trying to get a hex bolt loose for 3 days until I came across this. Just so happen to have a torx bit socket set on hand. Worked easy the first time. Thanks bro
Some good choices. One thing to remember is esp with cars, you might have very little clearance so hammering or using an impact wrench might not even be possible.
People who actually work on stuff and not just make veidos know this.
It's not even just cars. MOST stripped screws, bolts and nuts are in tight places, because they are harder to properly reach in the first place. Yet, most examples have a cleanly accessible bolt... In my case, the hex screw is in a toddler three-wheel step, in a hole, surrounded by plastic. I'm not a guy with multiple bits ratchet bits of every kind either, so sacrificial bits are not my forte. I don't have a welding kit either. In fact, the sacrificial hex key (the low-quality kind coming with whatever purchase you make, like the freaking wheels of the very step in my case) being glued to the bolt seems the best option...
Thank you so much! I used the torx method and it worked like a charm. Great $4 spent.
this channel deserves 1M really good content, keep up the good work!
Thanks Lord, appreciate the kind words.
Thanks for the help ! Had a couple of stripped Allen hex bolts that I couldn't get out. found something close that could fit, and hammered it in a bit... was able to get 'em right out !
Yeah!!!!! You are a genius. It worked. I've been trying to remove this f#cking screw forever!!! Countless videos and this one worked!!! Thank you!!!!
Dude. Thanks.
Thanks! Drilling out the center of the hex bolt then tapping in a triple square did the trick!
The Torx bit did the trick. It was a bolt/screw for a motorbike fork and it was inset deep. Thanks so much for the great ideas!
On a countersunk screw, the Torx bit method worked like a charm on my first atttempt. Thank you!
Finally this worked for me. God bless you!
This video made me realize i had the equipment i needed thank you
I've got a rounded out M8 Triple Square Socket bolt to deal with, I think I'll look for a slightly bigger sized Hex bit and mallet that in before using the impact driver to try take it off. Interesting tricks and techniques, thanks for sharing !! A great and informative video.
Did it work?
This video needs some kind of TH-cam Oscar!
Thanks for the ideas.
if you use the screwdriver technique, using a vise grip on it can give more torque.
Three sides socket worked great thanks you saved my life ! My Allen bolt rounded on my e46 pressure plate lol
I doubted you for a minute the first couple didn’t work for me but you came thru in the end! Thanks
man the torx bit worked awesome! Thank you!
Just wanted to say big thanks for this video it helped me out I used the Torx bit and hammer and impact gun to remove allen key head cap from throttle body so thanks again
I stripped one of these metric hex bolts by using imperial wrench on a hex cap bolt with loctite on it. When I was about to use one of these destructive methods you suggested, I recalled I have a pair of Vampilers and it worked.
I came back to this video to tell you that:
After scouting the internet for 2 fucking years, the triple square FUCKING WORKS. The clearance is 5” it was impossible to drive anything in, any bolt extractor would be too long. But you came along with the mighty triple square. I thought i would spend hundreds to get it out but sir you saved me.
I love the video. Most of the techniques used here are the common techniques I generally use. There's only one caveat to any of this is if you are working with clearance issues.
That’s my issue lol, I’m doing plugs on my Acura MDX and I did 5 of them already and they all have these hex screws but the last one is stripped and it’s at the front so I have like 0 space to work with 😂
Guitar truss rod nuts are usually small hex nuts recessed like half an inch into the headstock of the guitar. it's HELL
Thanks for your help. I hammered in a torx bit and was able to unscrew the bolt.
I have started to use a torque wrench to get it right. Great video
Really good video brother, this helped me out a lot. Thanks!
Wow! You know a lot! I'm still trying to learn one screw from the other.
3 hours today trying to remove screw from top of doorframe.
I have cussed many times
I had a unique situation where a Holster I had was attached with Hex heads on a pancake head screw was striped. I ended up taking a dremel tool to cut out a groove to then take a flat head screwdriver to loosen it. Worked Perfectly. The screw was probably over tightened by the last owner and maybe held in place with some loctite.
Yes mate thanks for the advice that little suckers out now thanks 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! I used one of your suggestions and it worked!
I use the torx method most often. Sometimes I will use the left hand drill bit to slightly drill the hole larger to go up a size in torx. Hammer it in about 1/8th of an inch. Take a 3/8 impact and feather the trigger while pressing hard on the back of the tool. Works most of the time.
I find this works best with electronic impacts since they often can be made to go slower.
I've got an air impact driver. Is it a bit dangerous to use of these with a torx bit to remove stuck countersunk bolts? I don't want to make the situation worse than it already is. I could buy an electric driver with variable speed if it is more likely to work.
Thanks for the very helpful tips!! I can now attempt 2 x fastener on the worn disc , on my motorcycle. I never knew the various options. Much appreciated 🙏😊
I removed the damaged torque bolt by hammering a bigger size torx bit inside it and then removed easily.
Yes use one of them when a hex is tripped. Works wonders
Man thanks a lot, I had hard time with stripped hex 3mm bolt probably rounded close to 1/8" bolt and the T15 torx did the trick! :))
Thanks so much for this video! Saved my butt on time, trying to simply remove some screws that were torqued down by the Hulk in some crappy Chinese manufacturing plant. So frustrating!
Thank you so much for saving my bike brakes.
I usually use the torx trick.
A more unconventional method I've used was to hit it at an angle with a center punch. The point of the punch will dig into the screw, and the sudden shock works like an impact driver to break loose the fastener. You may need to hit it several times, working your way around the outside edge of the head.
I have not personally tried that method due to time and patience. But I hear it can work.
Thanks for sharing. A good technique to have in the back pocket.
Video sent from the heavens 🥲
im so jealous of this tool collection
Thank you for sharing these tip. Very helpful!
Cringed at all the hammering on your digital torque wrench.
They are fairly hardy as it’s just a 3” extension with strain gauges. I’d be more worried about dropping it and cracking the lcd or housing. For what they are they are pretty cheap and highly accurate and I can throw it in my certified one any time to validate it’s still good.
Im glad i wasnt the only one who got shiver down my spine when i saw that
Yeah me too
Me too🥺😳
What about Welding on it lol?
Only problem with the pliers and grinder method is these socket Allen caps are usually recessed inside something so best bet most of the time is a torx or triple square bit socket but all of these are great methods good job Chris @ClientGraphics
For sure that can be the difficulty. Thankfully they make long and extra long torx and triple squares🤣🤣
@@ClientGraphics exactly bro 💯
Yep the mechanic I take my car to has 'accidentally' completely butchered my recessed M8 brake disc screw (highly suspicious as he's very experienced), so when I went to replace my disks I hit a brick wall but I actually have a T45 bit in my tool box to try on it tomorrow!
@@aries6776 best of luck getting that sucker out
Here’s an old Red Green quote (you’ve probably heard one of his sayings like “A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t”) but this one fits this situation
“Remember, I’m pulling for you. We’re all in this together”! Lol
Nice job on this great video. Great how to ideas.
I ran into this problem on my sway bar linkage, next time I'll give these a go. Thank you sir for tips to try in a jam. As always great video.
You never know when you can use these tips. Sway bar links are a good example since they can directly be in the elements with salt and other materials that cause them to rust and round out easier.
that intro got me hyped to remove stripped bolts
Why is this so relaxing to watch....😆. Anywho great video
Thank you.
Excellent vid mate, really helpful
Great video man, very informative
The only thing I would add is that you might find an imperial allen key works as an intermediate in a rounded out metric socket head. For example I have a M8 rounded out screw which needs an 6mm allen key but a 1/4" (6.35mm) would be easier to hammer in there than a 7mm allen key.
Them first ones are sold here in England under sealey lock on been looking for a video like this to see how good they will be
Making it for a flat screw driver works.
Thanks a lot the triple square worked for an over tightened factory drive shaft hex bolt that had loctite on it. Got me out of a jam.
Hands down the best video out there. Thank you!
I use the torx bit sockets the most and triple squares the most for stuff like this
They were both really impressive and the triple square was a real fun one to pull and jiggle out. 👌🏻
7:49 Please add the HF laser etched one to that review / test if you haven't filmed it already...
I’m assuming you mean the Doyle branded one, right? Yes I have it and the regular Pittsburgh and an older Craftsman USA for fun. Still waiting for the Amazon one to come in so that one is a week or so out🤫
@@ClientGraphics no... www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-professional-adjustable-wrenches-93943.html
I believe ones above have better construction than normal Pittsburgh wrenches, perhaps even Doyle
Great video seriously!!!
Thank you for this demo
If the torx bit doesn’t work, I found that a flathead also works extremely well, if not better for some cases. I didn’t have a torx bit big enough, so I hammered in a flat head and it worked first try
awesome thanks , worked on a bolt on a guitar I needed to remove .
Got one unstuck by using the torx bit, thanks for the tip.
Great video!
I have a 6, 7, 10, 12 and 16" Knipex Plyers.. they are AMAZING.
I see you tightening it with the cobra pliers and I’m thinking, hmm...what about loosening it with those. Then you do. Ha!
my thoughts too
Thanks this video helped me 2 years later..torx bit worked for me
Great, thanks.
Great Video
Just thought of a few more tips. In the real world it's likely to happen when you've got corrosion seizing the threads too. Use some penetrant anti-rust fluid up to 24 hours before. WD40 will work in a pinch but something like Boeshield although expensive works really well. Increasing torque and reducing friction are keys. And induction heaters can work well and more safely than blow torches to break the bind. Expand the bolt with heat and then quench it with water to rapidly contract and break that adhesion.
Excellent video!!
Good video really glad that the XTR is getting alot of use
Kobalt XTR gets used a lot. When I need lots of power and torque it’s my go to 1/4” hex impact.
I think the damaged fastener would come loose if the xtr just looks at it.
No homo bro but I love you. 🤣 Amazing ass video !
Thank you for this
Thanks bro trying to fix my motorcycle and I have stripped exhaust bolts! Now I have a plan!
Exhaust bolts heat and use a loosen and tightening method.
I've always used a hex bit and Hammered it down in the hole. I took out a exhaust manifold bolt that had snapped in half leaving the remnants in the valve head body, i drilled out a hole just big enough to fit the bit in snug and the rest was easy day. Have used that method several times now. Love your vids
This is a great tutorial because my back freestyle scooter afle is stuck and this will suflet work.
I suspect you've just saved me a huge amount of cash! Thank you for the video and all the options. Looks like torx to the rescue for me.
UPDATE: I couldn't find the torx tools so ended up cutting the slot and using the flat screwdriver, as much as anything because it was a tight space on a rotating cylinder so couldn't get enough purchase. Now I just have to figure out the dimensions for the replacement bolts...
Don’t forget the wonderful impact screwdrivers. :)
Yup, definitely a must have item. I bought one years ago to remove fastener on older motorcycles.
Those prices for those stainless steel bolts/screws are freaking amazing. I must be shopping at the wrong ace hardware stores.
I didn't see, but I have noticed that some areas of the country are WAY cheaper than mine!
OMG! So glad I found this. I'm putting together a monitor stand for working at home and TWO of the hex screws were stripped. Since they were really small, I was able to use some ordinary pliers from a generic tool kit I already had.
Awesome teaching vid ty
Hello there
I just subscribed and hit the bell.
Yesterday I was working on my drone and it started to round out a hex head.
I'm not sure what size fastener this is but it's fairly small.
I may try the torx bit if I have one of those. This is not something I can hammer on because the fastener goes into plastic. So perhaps tonight I'll try something on it. Do you have any suggestions ?
Thanks. Keith
I have a Allen bolt that’s stripped on the fork of my bike(Moto). lm Gona have to try these methods you used. Luckily it’s just one. Going to replace with hex heads when I get it removed.
I tried welding a hex sock onto it, but it broke off. Unsure of what type of metal it is and I didn’t want to leave burn marks on the rim.
Thanks for these demos 👍🏼
Not a real world test. Try it on a real car that has seen ten winters in Minnesota. These were all clean threads. When I did a brake job on my '14 car, the threads on the caliper were all brown rusted. Fortunately it was a bolt head.
How did you manage to get it out?
I've never worked on anything that I needed a triple square for. Good video
Triple square fasteners are commonly found on German vehicles such as Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, and definitely Volkswagen.
Fiat
great video my frend liked and subbed
U should review the powerbuilt zeon sockets and hex sockets
I do own the metric set of Zeon powerbuilt sockets. The one that comes in the little red tray just never thought about reviewing them. I would have to start collecting a few more damaged socket removal tools. Might be interesting.
Yea I've used the habor freight spline sockets on a rounded drain plug on my Cadillac the socket bit into the drain plug pretty well I was surprised
Very advanced technology.
All my fastners are usually flush. So I'd have no socket option. i.e. steering wheels, batteries, seat mounts... I'm always looking for the best to get them from the top only?
Thanks. I ended up drilling out the sunken 8mm hex and then hammering on a 12mm triple square; the bugger came off once I'd got the ugga dugga onto it. 😊
hey man great video... I want to ask you though what triple square are you using in the video and also what mm hex is that you are trying to remove? thanks man!
Is that highly calibrated Quinn device OK with being hammered like that?