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6011 Vs 6013 BEST POLARITY for WELDING SHEET METAL
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2018
- 6011 Vs 6013 Which ROD and Polarity is BEST for WELDING SHEET METAL? Have you ever wondered what the difference is between 6011 and 6013 electrodes and what happens if you switch from DC Positive DCEP to DC Negative? DCEN Here is a side by side comparison of how each of these rods performs on sheet metal doing exactly that! See the results for yourself! The test material we used is 16 gauge (1.29 mm) sheet metal and the rods are 1/16" (1.6 mm) 6011 and 6013. The manufacturer recommended running these rods at 20-40 amps. I found that 20 amps was the sweet spot on my machine.
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Nice weild s
I'm learning
It's was helpful, thanks again
@@walterjames3911 thanks Walter. Thanks for watching
I dont think they actually make a rod except 316 staunless that is actually rated for food grade but I'm not 100% sure
I’m a beginner home welder, found your video randomly and loved it from start to end. No bs no drama, just actions & results & analytics👍🏻 Learned a lot from this, and you got a beautiful grandson as well❤ God bless your family😊
Thank you very much Warren! Welcome to the channel!
As a beginning welder, self-taught. I greatly appreciate these types of videos! Thank you!
Thanks John! I appreciate you watching and your support!
Thanks for running this video. I had an old welder tell me that as a rule of thumb to run any rod ending in an odd number on DCEN and those that end in an even number run on DCEP. I've kind of lived by this rule even though the rods are sometimes recommended to be run the opposite way (like 6011). However, based on your results, it looks like he is right.
Interesting!...I had not heard that before, but it sure seems to make sense! Thanks for the tip! That just goes to prove, you are never to late to pick up tips and tricks!
Five years on - would you say this rule of thumb holds true?
@@ZacharyMelo I'm not a welder by profession so I'm not the best to answer this but for the welding I have done I'd say yes.
Was using 3/32 and dcep to join. 11 gauge rec tube to 1/8 rec tube,, this was a mess! Thank you for the tip! I’ll try it tomorrow!
Seeing is believing!
Good job!
Glad I cuold help Greg. It's still difficult but hopefully this will help a little
Awesome video Brandon - thank you!! At 62 years old I am a relatively new "stick welder" and have lots to learn still. Your excellent video has given me lots to consider for future jobs! Warm greetings from South Africa!
Thanks man I appreciate it! Have fun!
Agree with you 100% Brandon. As far as polarity, when welding on dcep the heat is directed on the workpiece, when welding on dcen the heat is directed mostly on the electrode. That’s why it seems hotter using dcep.
Straight polarity dcen: straight electrode negative (SEN) short for senator, reverse polarity dcep: reverse electrode positive (REP) short for representative. Just a trick to remember how to determine straight polarity from reverse polarity. Superfine video!
Thanks Richard and I want to thank you for your great comment in the previous video. It was one of the ones that prompted me to do a follow up video! I like your memory trick for remembering polarity! Awesome!
Cheers for that info about heat on the base metal & not the rod when polarity is about face
Thank you for the video, I tried this both ways and I'm going out again. I find the penetration better with DCEP too. My DCEP also looks better than when I do DCEN. The problem I have is blowing holes in thin irregular surfaces (wheel barrow repair/re enforcing). The good thing about the hole is that it doesn't fill up with rain water any more :D
You have there a beautiful baby inspector. God bless him.
Thank you very much! 😊
@Jeremy Mettler bro wtf
Thank you. You done a very nice demonstration. Your love for your grandson is apparent.
Thanks Jerry! Hes a keeper :)
Good video as usual. You will notice those rods are made shorter than usual.
If you do get some long ones you can wrap the cable over your arm and grab the stick in the middle like a pencil, wearing your gloves of course! If it's hot and your hands get sweaty, or if the stick gets too hot you can put a reasonably clean dry cotton shop/hand towel over your glove and then grab the stick with that. Just be careful, and don't ground yourself anywhere else.
I found, and then lost again, a video where a guy welded a box with 18 ga (1.2mm) sheet metal using 3/32" 6011 at 35A DC. He draged it at a steady pace at maybe a 45 degree angle, and created a narrow bead without burning through. DCEN might have helped, but he didn't say. He did say it works much better on some machines than others.
It looks like 6011 might work OK at very low current (because of the aggressive arc?). I'm going to try it, AC and DC. The 3/32" is widely available, and the smaller sizes cost more. If it works I'll tell you all about it !
Very valid points @Thomas Lewis. You got me curious to try some different things now!
Been 5 years Hows the baby ! I bought rods today for auto patch paneling "Always check your rods Not the sign they are selling from" I wanted 6013 3/32 which was a noob mistake on 18 gauge paneling ...The rods ended up being 6011 something which is bigger than your 1/16" ..Have to return tomorrow for the 1/16 6011 ..And ya i will be doing the tack And move method And not the whip Which might be the next method on a thicker gauge on a Body mount floor brace area..which is a whole other not so fun job ..Thanks for posting this You covered gauge rods And method with DCEP And DCEN Thumbs up !
Thanks man! Good luck with your project!
Just found your video as I'm looking to fix some rusted-through metal on my truck, (wheel well and tailgate). I'm new to stick welding and had heard of running certain rods on negative polarity to keep the weld cooler. Thanks for the demo. Great video! A great help to me and keep up the good work!
Welcome aboard! Good luck on your project brother. 👊👍
Thank you for the video. I picked up the Tractor Supply Co. Metal Man arc80 recently. I haven't done any stick welding in 8-10 years and forgot a lot. Checking these videos helps quite a bit. Good info. As far as the metal man 80... not bad. It's a good light weight machine for home use...runs on 110v 20 amp. First time my son used it he laid down a nice bead. I'm gonna pull out some scrap and practice. I did manage to drop a small project and your video helped me. Thanks again.
Congratulations on your new welder purchase and I'm glad I was able to be of some help. I saw the Metal Man for the first time this weekend at my local Tractor Supply but i wasn't able to see much of it because it was still in the box and they did not have any displays set up. It's a good feeling when you can fix, repair and build things around the house using your own tools and equipment.
Im replacing/fabricating floor pans on a 96 jeep xj...this was the best advise after 3 days of youtubing...what a relief man thank you
Thanks man! Glad I could help. Good luck with your project!
And you're gonna stick weld it?
For those who clicked the dislike/thumbs down button are "Inept Wannabe Welders"
For Christ Sake! - This video content is the most informative spot on about DCEP (Electrode Positive) & DCEN (Electrode Negative) Gee-saazz!
Keep up the great work man! We love your videos! =)
Thanks man I appreciate your support!
Other videos don't really go into detail like that or do the comparison of welding electrode positive versus electrode negative. This video really explained and demonstrated the difference.Thank you much!
Richard Howe thanks Richard! I appreciate your support and kind words!
They aren't "springy" you have too much rod angle. These 16th rods will run smooth as a 1/8 7018 and slag peel every time. All those choppy beads are from welding sideways. They run best at 40 amps. Stand the rods up properly so they run smoothly. These little 6013 are some of my favorite rods. You'll enjoy them if you do.
Hi, what do you mean ‘too much rod angle’? I use 16th now because I’m working on 1/16” (1,5mm) square tubing. Do you mean the rod needs to be straight on the metal? So 90 degrees? Thx
@@Gemzy275 This is old, so mainly answering for other people watching this, you want your rod angle to be minimal, 5 to 10 degrees in either direction, depending on position on the weld. So yes straight up and down with a bit of angle is fine.
@@BudMasta thanks man. I literally JUST saw this and think it will help me a bit
@unknown 1984 that is incorrect information for 6013. You run a much steeper drag angle with 6013 than you do with other rods because it's weld puddle is runny and the steeper drag angle keeps the weld puddle from piling up and creating porosity. 15 degree max for other rods but 6013 you want 25 plus degrees of angle. I don't normally pipe in but running 6013 vertical to 15 degrees is not how this rod is intended to run and will only give you huge problems
Going to have a play with the buzzbox on bodywork again this weekend and you've given me a couple more ideas to try 👍, Thanks.
Thanks and good luck!
A handy way to handle the small electrodes is to cut the down or to shorter lengths OR remove the flux on the in the middle so you can hold them shorter in the stinger. Basically you’re “chocking up” on the electrode to keep a tight arc.
Great idea about clamping the middle! Thanks!
When welding with small diameter electrodes I had found for me if I lightly place my index finger on the electrode where it sticks out of the rod holder it dampens the vibrations on the rod to keep it calm during the weld process . The down side is the rod will heat up as you weld and it will eventually get hot on your finger . Good quality welding gloves are a must for this technique . Try it and see if it works for you .
For sure 👊
I have been welding for weeks now and been using the 1.6 mm electrode for thin metals but never tried the dcen. Thanks for this video. Gotta try it.
Thanks man your going to love it!
“Is a whip and pause rod” one of the best lines I’ve heard yet.
Sweet name
i ended up to this channel.. and as beginner.. your teachings will help me a lot specially that am just a diy mode.. thank you 🙏
Thanks and welcome aboard!
Subbed! Found your channel this week and have been binge watching. I am learning welding as a DIY'er/tinker'er via TH-cam so content that is well thought out and delivered is very helpful. Great information and perspective on these. Thank you and keep up the great work.
This information came at the right time for me. Am a novice in welding and am trying to do a DIY welding project.
Here in Zimbabwe the only rods that are easily available are the 6013s, and the smallest is 2.5mm. I have been having challenges using it on square tubes 1.6mm thick. Was using DCEP at about 78A with a lot of blow holes. I think I am going to switch to DCEN, judging from what you have just shown in the video, I think I will achieve better results.
Thank you, from Zimbabwe.
Thank you for your comment! I love hearing from viewers across the country and hearing about their projects. 6013 can be a little difficult to weld with. I cant remember if I mentioned it in the video, but try experimenting with a steeper drag angle also. 6013 likes a somewhat steep angle. Cheers and thank you for your support.
Thank you. Will try everything you have suggested here.
Thank you this will help me on my side job today you really helped a youngin out preciate it man ❤
Glad I could help 👍
as guy doing a welding course, currently, I really enjoyed the baby participation 😂.
Hahahahahaah Thank you :)
Thanks Brandon, i'm just beginning to weld and this post has helped me today
Awesome! I'm glad I could help!
agreed
Hello and thank you for this video clip.
I tried DC electrode negative stick welding today.
The welding is far better.
As from now,I will go DC electrode negative!!!!
ollivier bissiere I’m glad I could help! It makes me feel good when a viewer says that I have helped them. Thank you for sharing!
20 years ago I bought an AC/DC Tombstone, the big Lincoln book on welding, & 50lbs of rods. Teaching myself to weld, I built a shop out of used oilfield pipe.
I discovered an iron powder rod. Forget the numerical designation, but on DC reverse polarity the metal flowed So gently into the pool. Nice welds and good joints. Was a really nice forgiving rod.
I think your referring to 7024. 7024 will lay down some of the nicest beads anyone will ever see but it is only for flat and horizontal welding, however i always found welding flat was the best position for this rod.
@@BrandonLund with dcep your bound to get more penetration and that’s the goal. Dcen will focus heat on the tip of the welding rod and if the metal isn’t thin enough you’ll end up with cold lap
Exactly!
I watched this a week or two back. I just bought a new welder and tried it today for the first time with 6011. Thinking back to this video, I tried swapping the polarity and I notice the same, DCEN looked better. Thanks for the tip!
(neither one of them looked *good* but that's my fault. I'll be practicing)
Glad I could help and congratulations on the new welder!
Excellent tutorial. Keep up the good work brother.
Thanks man! I appreciate your support!
Well explained. Thank you!! My welds have been looking like I'm getting a grinder for Christmas.
Lol we've all been there. Practice makes perfect. You'll get it!
Good video! I welded 2 hooks on my tractor bucket with the HF 80A inverter with1/16 rods, No idea how many passes, when I was done the bucket looked like I was cleaning up after 50 kids on the 4th of July! Still holding though!
I bet it did looks like 4th of July! They burn fast!. That is a small rod for that project! Multipass! :)
Another fantastic video. I was using 6013 DCEP, and was burning straight through some of my metal. Fortunately, I was able to mess around with it enough to fill in the gaps, but they are not strong welds at all. I will have to do a lot of practice tomorrow, and try switching to DCEN and try it again. I am building a frame for a battery box using angle steel that is lightly galvanized and has the holes cut in it, like what you would see on a sign post.
Thanks for making great videos to share your knowledge.
The more you do, the better you get. Your probably aware, but just be careful welding on galvanized. The fumes are very poisonous. Some of the things you can do are - use a respirator, grind off the galvanized or weld it in a very well ventilated area. I prefer to grind and weld with a respirator. Cheers brother!
@@BrandonLundThanks, man. I went out and bought some mild steel for practicing on. Welding on the galvanized steel last night really messed up my lungs, and i had to call in sick to work today. Felt better this afternoon, so tried welding DCEN. Had a much better outcome.
@@AnonYmous-cf2ci awww man that sucks! FYI, (if it happens again) drink milk...it will help make you feel better much quicker. It helps rid your body of the zinc. Glad to hear the welding is coming along and I hope your feeling better. Cheers brother!
Could also soak the galvanized steel in vinegar for awhile to dissolve it. No respiratory problems and very inexpensive.@@BrandonLund
Great video. I have used 1/16 rods, I don't have that spring action that much, my problem is the rod burns up
Thanks!
That 6011 bounce looks like the E string on my bass guitar vibrating. It looks like it could be a challenge. Apprentice Colton James already has an eye for a solid clean weld! Master Grandpa has a nice library of videos that can help me earn my apprenticeship! Electrode Negative, Electrode Positive, great demo. I have plenty of video instruction ahead to tackle. Now I just need more time. Thank God retirement is very soon. More importantly, may God bless young Colton James and grant him favor all his years!
Thanks man and God Bless you! 🙌
Pretty tough crowd on here. Almost noone complimented the tiny future welder on his cameo appearance. He's so cute and funny munching on his little hand.
Thanks brother! He sure is a lot of fun and thank you for you great comment!
What a beautiful baby, congratulations. Thanks for the video.
Thank you ! For Taking the time to do these videos truly appreciated ! Beautiful baby and waaaaayyyy !!! Better looking than Grandpa !
Thanks man! And thank god for his sake that he is wayyyyy better looking than Grandpa lol.
A lap joint on thin sheet metal is not a good rod test. A better test rod test would be a butt joint with a slight gap. A 6011 is a high penetration rod. You'll find that it has a tendency to blow right thru the gap. 6013... They're sometimes called an all purpose farmer rod that works on AC buzz boxes . They're much better for thin sheet metal because they're not a high penetration rod. It won't blow thru as readily. It also helps to hold the rod on more of an angle and travel a bit quicker.
6013 is recommended for thin sheet metal. 6011 isn't. 6011 is more for burning thru paint and rust. It's also used for a root pass on heavy pipe.
As you stated...Thin rods are wiggly. Shortening the rod by cutting it in half helps a lot.
It's very helpful as a beginners by choosing the right polarity..
Spot on!
Thanks, Brandon!!! This is such good information. Now that I have a choice of stick or wire, I can see that I might have an application that before I won the November welder give away (Thank you so much for the Decapower 200) that I did not have before!!! I watched this because I did not have the option before!!! Appreciate your input so much. Be well, be safe, be Blessed!!!
Thanks buddy I'm glad it helped!
I tested some thick to thin fillet welding on DCEN with these 6013, 1/16th. Welding .042" walled conduit pipe to 1/8" plate. It was extremely frustrating on DCEN. Even on high amperage the penetration was ZERO. Switched to DCEP and then the weld was reliable. So I would be careful about looks versus testing the weld.
Very nicely explained. Thanks. Cute Grandchild God bless
Thank you very much and we think hes a keeper! God bless you also!
Nice experiment.
6011s are more of a high penetration rod for dirty metal.
6013s were designed for sheet metal so I'd stay with those if you're intent on stick welding sheet metal.
I had a body shop back in the day, MIG & oxy acetylene pretty much covered everything.
I'm old school...I started out learning to weld sheet metal floor pans brazing with O/A...anything beyond that is a piece of cake 🤣🤣🤣. Lol
Really wish i had some of those tiny rods today! I was welding so fast (trying not to blow holes in my metal) that my welds look like a trainee's first week at school haha
Hahaha i feel your pain brother. It happens to me too!
Boy what a KOOL welding inspector!
I appreciate that! 🙏
Thanks! I have to weld a tractor at work tomorrow, they don’t have 6010s, only 11s & 13s and I’m not familiar with either. Very helpful.
Glad I could help! Thanks for commenting and watching!
Amateur welder/self taught: I've been blowing holes all over in 2mm box section with 2.5mm E6013 DCEP. Never actually tried DCEN but it looks like less heat so probably worth doing!
@quantumbox you will love it! It's so much smoother on thin metal
That was super helpful. I have some rust holes in my snowblower to repair so I'm trying to see the options of how to do it. Guess it's time to pick up some 1/16" rods.
Just be patient and it can be done. 6013 to the rescue!
Thanks Brandon great vid excellent explanation I started my grandson welding at 10 with all the correct gear of course 👍
That's awesome! My grandson just turned 1 so I can relate!
Very helpful the info. I AM A BEGINNER and was using 6013, 1/16 but my weld is not that good looking
Glad I could help! Cheers!
Thank you for this test. I would try 6013 and 6011 using DCEN. I have very poor results with lots of slag inclusion with DCEP. and 6013
Great suggestion!
Just started welding so this has answered many questions. Thanks for the common sense tips.
I'm glad I could help!
Thank you for your help made aHUGE difference as most of the stuff I weld is thin
Your welcome! I'm glad I could help!
Very informative video. I think Colton was upset he didn't to take a crack at it. He'll be at it before you know it!
Tsunami101st thanks buddy! He will be in no time :)
Great comparison video. Bought a cheap new Inverter welder and I'll try the electrode negative on light sheet for practice. Thank you
You bet and enjoy your new welder! 👍
I am a total newbie to welding of any sort but I found your video super helpful in just understanding some of the basics i would need to master or get to grips with. Found it really helpful understanding terminology used.
I look forward to seeing a video using butt welding techniques.
Many thanks from a UK viewer.
Thanks for watching Terry im glad i could help!
Thank you so much, this was very very helpful for me! I'm building a shop woodburnin stove and my welding skills are very crap- I'm going to switch polarity and see if I may have an easier time of it.
You're welcome and good luck with your project 👍
Thanks Brandon for sharing your experience and the 'Boss'
Thanks man! 👊😀
Thanks, I never knew you can change over the cables, I've always welded the right way decp, but for sheet metal which I want to do den seems better, so that's what I'm going to try.
Your going to love how smooth the arc feels!
I am working mostly with very thin tubing...bicycles; croMo, and adding in parts made with mild steel from 18ga to 10ga. I am hoping that a 6011 will do a better job than the 6013 at 1/16. The 5/64 rods burn through a lot. I am getting good at filling holes, tho.
6011 is a typically used for root passes because of it's deep penetration. Usually 6013 is better on thinner materials but it can be done with 6011 is you run your amperage real low and run it like spot welding.
Thank You for sharing!
Thanks Roland and you're welcome!
Great tips man. I usually use my everlast mig welder on thin metal.
Thanks Nathan. How do you like the Everlast MIG? I haven't tried one yet.
Thanks, I did not know you could hook up the electro holder to negative. Good information for beginners.
You bet! Thanks man!
Great video thank you. Im more of a mig and tig guy but your welds look super clean compared to what i can do with a stick welder.
Thank you very much!
Great video always enjoy watching them and I learn something every time -- keep up the good work 👍
Thank you so much Jesse!
Good Sir! Thank you for your video! I just begin learning welding and this video is both cute (because of the little baby :) and also very helpful. Thank you!!!
Thank you i appreciate your support!
Awesome video! Very detailed!
@Old Lincoln Pipe Welder thank you very much!
This video helped me weld stainless steel kitchen sinks. I used to only think mig or TIG were the way to go, but I use my stainless rod’s on DCEN with no leaks or undercuts. Thank you sir.
Hello Brandon, Jose from Puerto Rico. I subscribed to your channel because I enjoy the way you teach. I'm 65 and retired, but welding was always something that caught my attention. I took a short basic stick welding course and enjoyed the process. Furthermore, I'm waiting on an inexpensive welder just to practice at home and hone in on the process; I can surely see myself being able to fix basic stuff around the house. I'd like to ask a question. I have an old file cabinet and would like to weld on some casters to be able to move it around. I'm going to grind the old paint off and re-paint and add those caster wheels. From what I understand, I can use the 6011 rods since those casters are not made from real thick gauge metal. I figure that to practice, I might as well use that file cabinet to store tools and stuff. What do you think?
6011 rods have real deep penetration. You would probably want to use some 1/16" 6013 rods rather than the 6011. 6013 works really well on thin metals which is what the filing cabinet material is. Another suggestion, you could weld up a frame using angle iron and weld your casters to the bottom then set your filing cabinet into it. Just a suggestion. I appreciate your interest and the SUB! 🙏😁 If you get stuck you can always ask here. I try to respond to every comment.
@@BrandonLund l like the frame suggestion.
Welding thin metal is actually a lot harder than welding thicker metal so by going with the frame idea you get more practice and you dont have to worry about blowing through the thin metal cabinet. Not to discourage you but welding thin metal (especially as a beginner) is very difficult to do with stick welding. It can be done but it's not easy. I actually have a few videos on stick welding welding thin metal. Good luck with your project!
Nice!
For auto body work, especially sheet metal restoration stuff, it would be nice to see how butt welds could work out. Low amp settings and good penetration without burning holes is tough. Mig works best, but a lot of folks don't have mig and 6013 was designed for sheet metal back in the day. Maybe you could try some butt welds with 1/16th. 6013 one day. Thanks for the good vid.
Thanks man! I can tell you that butt welding sheet metal is a tall order, but I will gladly give it a try. The blue demon has an awesome hot start feature and I think this would be mandatory with running the amps as low as I would have to for this to work...I like your idea! Thank you!
Everyone has MIG now days. 20 years ago, not so much. But MIGs are so cheap, there's almost no reason not to have one.
I'm no welder however even i agree that's a tall order .the amount of heat even on a lap joint i suspect would just blow through & that's just for a tack since you wouldn't be able to continue the bead without it doing so .Not sure if even a heat sink in the rear would work either .For sure those rods you use in the vid are dam whippy alright lol it's like your seeing double when welding as it has that flex movement going on (i have some & was using them yesterday .They're a freaky rod to use i.e small 6013) Must get some 6011 & see how they go .Just to clarify the 6013 you actually didn't hold the rod off the metal but put it on it & dragged ? i must try that .I also found not enough amps made the slag stick in the weld & make holes where the slag solidified grrrr , however now that Richard mentioned about heat on the base metal that could be why i was having issues
@@scorpnz4433for 6013 I pretty much just lay the rod in there gently and hold a pretty decent drag angle. I went back and looked at the video and it looks a little exaggerated but you want it fairly steep. Im not forcing the rod in, but I'm also not holding a gap. There is basically no weight or pressure against the tip of the rod. 6013 is very fluid so having no gap combined with a steep drag angle helps to keep the puddle blown out ahead of the rod (which is why it's so easy to get slag inclusions with this rod). Having very little drag angle will allow the puddle to wash back and cause slag inclusions and porosity. I hope that was clear enough. If not, let me know. I run 7024 pretty much the same way also, just not as steep. 6013 rods usually start very easy so if your sticking, try turning up your amps a little, hold a steeper drag angle and just lay the rod in and see if it inproves.
Cheers mate that was clear & precise & understood .It worked as you said. The sheet i was welding yesterday was far to thin for the rods .Seeing this vid (just got back inside from retrying a weld on the same size steel plates you used) a noticeable difference lol that's how a bead should lay yeehaww
thank you for your guide bro. looking forward to seeing more of your products
Thank you!
Thanks for the video man it helped me a lot
No problem 👍
I have an ARC 200 and your video was very helpful. Thanks
Glad I could help!
Man that's dang good welding,any chance of a alloy stick arc welding clip soon m8,keen to learn about it,apparently it needs to be reverse polarity, for the aluminum arc rods,Cheers and awesome channel m8
Thanks man. I've only stick welded aluminum a couple times and both times it was a complete failure. It held, it just looked bad. I'll probably spare myself the embarrassment lol. It's hard to get a nice looking bead. Thanks for your support :)
thanks a lot my friend... your video helps me a lot.
Thanks Ron! I appreciate your support!
A test running AC would be interesting.
Thank you for the video, I should try using DCEN to my 1/16 6013 rod.... It's difficult to weld a thin sheet (0.8 mm) with DCEP.
Give it a try, I think you will be impressed! Cheers :)
This is great man, thx. I was practicing the other day, was blowing through thin ga with 6013 on positive.
I think you will see a big difference when you switch the leads :)
Brandon real fast, what do u think about 7014, I picked up some 5/64" rods to try on thin metal.
Its a great all around rod and the slag peels easily.
I bet Colton was being very critical of those welds its all in his expressions lol! Great videos
Thanks man! He loves being in the workshop helping out. He will be welding in no time;)
My trick was to whizzer wheel cut the rods in half and then use. A lot more control without wiggle. How about trying butt welding the sheet metal with a small gap between the sheets ?? Nice job showing the difference between different rods and polarity settings too.
GOOD DEMO!!! THANKS!!! PERHAPS TRY SAME SET UP, BUT, USE A COPPER SHEET, OR BAR, TO BACK UP THE WELD, TO ALLOW A BIT MORE AMPS, WITH LESS RISK OF BURN THRU(?!...)
Great suggestion! Thank you. I will include this in an upcoming video. I have a nice thick copper bar for doing just that. Cheers!
oh, damm.....i just sold 165 pounds of # 1 red copper. 4.00 a pound, .......? ... i shoulda kept 10 pounds.....damm me ....anyway, good luck to all working '' with their hands ''.........
Your stick welding is very cool 😎
Thank you!
Dcen 45amps it looks like a baby 7018 cutest weld bead you've ever seen
Thanks 4 helpful vid from you and your boss 😃👍🔨📐!
Thank you! and he's a keeper!
awesome :D i got some 1,5 mm rods today im exited to try them out on some sheets, would be super awesome if i can use this to weld some cases with............. but i have to do a little job first tomorrow lol , but thanks for sharing this vid it made me more confident welding it with elektrodes could work, otherwise i had to get a tig machine i was afraid...
Thanks man and good luck!
Great video, great teachings, thank you
Thanks Oscar! I appreciate your support!
Reguardless to popular belief electricity does not flow from positive to negative but the opposite, an electron is negatively charged and flows toward positive so while welding negative electrodes tend to push the metal into the positive ground .
Good information. My welder is AC only. I wish you had tried AC. I don't weld enough to justify buying another welder. I am thinking of adding a rectifier if DC is vastly superior.
My AC welder is currently broken but I plan to repair it soon. The only real difference I notice when running Ac Vs. Dc is that DC runs a bit smoother. I occasionally get arc blow with DC which you don't get with AC simply because the arc is alternating at 60 cycles a second.
thanks for all the info
Your welcome. Glad I could help :)
Greatly appreciated thanks
You are very welcome! Thank you for watching! @Goodwill Makhutle
Very helpful and clearly explained, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!
dc en is definetly the way to go
Right on!
And the whip & pause is for things like pipe when you're making keyholes to build a backing for the hot pass, joining two spaced pieces instead of a lap joint.
CavemanJoe I’ve never had good luck just dragging 6011. It could just be how I was taught. For lap joints, I tend to focus on the toe of the bottom plate and wash the puddle back flush with the upper plate.
Brandon Lund
For anything *other* than pipe, I've found 6011 to be best for just tacks or short runs on things that have to be fixed in place with minimal prep. It does go deep, but it doesn't have good flexibility for things that get any torque.
Excelente
Thank you!
Ya just gotta put ur pointer finger up on the rod to reduce vibration/shakiness until it's too hot but by then the rod should be short enough to stop shaking
Good point (no pun intended) lol.
Awesome video bud! I have some thin legs that have partially broken off my electric smoker I need to repair with my Titanium 200 Unlimited and will consider your results. Consider choking up on the rod with your working hand or grabbing it with your free hand to steady it.
@Matt Cero thanks man! You can also snip your rod in half and it will make it a little easier.
Good job . With those skinny rods (which I try to avoid using), I sometimes hold a second rod at roughly 90° or so under the rod in the stinger to get going. I learnt on 6013s, on AC (only time we had DC was from the diesel generator setup) we ran em hot, they ran fine, always had the slag peel right back, never needed chipping hammer or wire brush, maybe they don't make 6013s like they used to or at lower amps on inverters they don't run well? Cute lil Winston Churchill impersonator you have there :)
Thanks buddy! Interesting idea on using the 2nd rod...I will have to give it a try! The slag seemed to come loose a little easier for me on dcen than dcep but it wasn't peeling back like you mentioned. It's satisfying when it does though. He grand baby is a lot of fun. I compared him to the original "Uncle Fester" on a show called Adams Family.
Really enjoy your videos fella. The metal looked a little thicker than body panel but hard the tell. Hey love the cute little baby. Regards from Perth WA 🦘🇦🇺
Thanks Tyrone! I appreciate it 🙏😁