Ya too good... I started stick welding and couldn't see the puddle anywhere near as well as I can in the video. You have to have your face 6in away... I've tried it with a respirator but my lens gets a coat of smoke after one pass. Maybe I'll end up getting a magnifier at some point (notice how I didn't call it a cheater lens since I don't really agree that it's "cheating").
@@MetrologyEngineer Cheater lens is something people call a tool that helps another person out welds them. It's a tool, like saying a person is cheating brushing the slag off with a wire wheel because he only has a wire stick.
I used 1/8” 6011 on pretty much everything around the farm. I’m no pro by any measure but what I built and took to the field never broke. I just always made sure the pieces fit together and were clean. .Lincoln tombstone and later a Forney but I never got a high frequency box.
These videos are great for a guy like me. I am a millwright in a plant. A plant that doesn’t have dedicated welders and we do all the welding and fabbing. Most of what we do is 7018 and 6011 for the mild steel applications. Your videos show the subtle movements that have made my jobs that much easier and giving me better results. Also makes me want to go for a welding ticket as well ! Lol
A true teacher and admirer of the art ... Jody that’s what I see you as. Never condescending always completely open and sharing. Thanks for the great videography!
Youve helped me ALOT during my welding education, 3 months into my education watching your videos everyday during lunch and at home, thank you so much for what you do!
Novice/extreme newbie here(a.k.a "green"). I have read and see videos and understand the basic physics and metallurgy. Safety first of course. Thank you for the detailed explanations while showing the video-a picture is worth 1k words. When combined, you sir are a good teacher. Thank you!
That was some great instruction and demonstration Jody! The videography is outstanding! I ALWAYS like how you show the weld and bead, explain things as you are welding and then the views of test cuts to show penetration! Just plain excellent all the way around! Thank you very much!
I live on a farm/ranch and 6011 is all I use. Too much grease, rust and dirt when I have to get something up and running in a hurry before the weather changes. 6011 works for me and I have three welders, one diesel, one gas, and one 220v electric AC/DC.
Hey Jody, thanks for all the stick welding vids! Just picked up an old Airco 250 amp AC/DC machine for $275 to go with my toy H.F. 90amp wire feed(a gift; the price was right!). Here we go re-learning how to stick weld again. I learned in high school on a Lincoln buzz-box, I'm 63 now. So much for the old dogs/new tricks story!
.....ha same as me, 65 and learnt in junior high, same as you. Burnt the bottom of my blue jeans, frayed ends, 70's look. from learning on old tombstone buzz....
For most folks they couldn’t show up to a job and weld. For Jody he could stack dimes with a some car batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and a coat hanger for filler.
This video showed me a couple of things I needed to address when running 6011. Welding is just a hobby for me but I still always want to get things right. I've learned a lot from watching your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thank you for the instruction . You are very clear and concise . I am going to try some 6011 . I notice not many people are criticizing your welds or knowledge . I get tired of the know it alls . You have been there and done it .
Confirms a a lot of what my experience has told me about 6011 rods . My several decades as a farmer, with nothing more than an AC buzzbox for backup , saw many repairs done on hard working farm equipment with 6011 rods .
I used 6011 rods when I was learning how to weld with my powerarc. Probably not the easiest rod to learn with but it was all I had access to at the time.
I’ve found that joint prep makes the biggest difference in penetration. A standard T will do just fine but with a bevel it’ll be the strongest T you’ll ever have. Throw in a 6011/10 root and a 7018 fill and cap and you’ll be gold
" uses a 10 lb inverter stick welder with a 1/16 " Dia. rod ...." I've got a lincoln buzz box. Thank you for sharing your experience and your time with me. God Bless. Stay safe and keep those nails Done.
As a farmer, 6011 is my go-to rod. It's not fussy about having clean surfaces. It penetrates better. It freezes faster, so the puddle goes where I want it to, rather than how gravity pulls it. You can play with it more during the weld. It's not pretty. If I have the option, 7018 goes over the 6011.
Hi jodi, i just bought your 2019 4 dvd volume 9 pack, i also have volume 2 dvd set. . These are way better than the old Hobart school, vhs videos, way more content, and more clear arc shots, Well worth the small price. Thanks William
How do you not love this guy! Excellent teacher. Expert analysis with testing and proof positive of good and bad. Keep up the fantastic work. Heading to the store to keep you in front of that camera. I haven’t welded in a long time but you’ve re-ignited the love of it. Fantastic stuff!
I love your videos, I'm 15 and I am about to do a fabrication and welding apprenticeship an your videos are helping me so much, thanks heaps I'm your number 1 fan haha👌🏾
In my welding years 6011 was always my go to rod. Rusty, dirty, thin metal 6011 was the rod I would use. Up north here in Canada the approved pipe procedures were 6011 root 7018 cap. With its fast freeze ability you can close a hole or a big gap easily. I agree, it’s Avery useful rod.
I love these rods for every reason mentioned here already. They make great root passes, giving you the ability to keyhole the roof into the root. I also like the inverted T weave for a hot pass and a box weave or triangular weave for the cover pass.
madbear3512 by no means does 7018 suck, it is just a different purpose rod. Because of the flux it needs more amperage to burn, the filler in the rod is of higher tensile strength and it make a nicer bead. It is possible to weld pipe joints or any other joint with 7018 all the way. 6011 burns at a lower amperage and is fast freeze making it easier to control in an open root, it also has a bit more cleaning action in the presence of contaminants where 7018 does not. Because of its fast freeze characteristics 6011 does not make as nice a bead as 7018. 6011 has 60,000 lb tensile strength and 7018 has 70,000 lb tensile strength which is not a big deal. They are both nice rods to use in my opinion.
madbear3512 6011 is probably just my preference but you can use 7018 almost anywhere although it requires a bit more amperage. Here is link to the Lincoln website explaining uses for all kinds of welding rods. www.lincolnelectric.com/en-ca/consumables/stick-electrodes/pages/stick-electrodes.aspx Here you will see probably all the welding rods made and their applications. The rods I used the most often were 6011, 7018, 7014, 7024 and 11018 in sizes from 3/32” to 1/4” in diameter.
When I first learned to weld at San Diego City College in 1984, I was using 5/32" 6010 on 1/2"" steel plate. My instructor Terry Block always told us that once we knew how to weld with 6010/6011 that we could run anything else. Our booths were set up on DC reverse and the training was geared towards the shipyards in the area where 6010 and 7018 were what most of the students would probably be working. Spent pretty much the whole semester in that booth, four hours a night, two nights a week running 6010, and later 7018.
QuickShot it was a basic arc welding class, so I'm not sure what other methods I should of been learning in an arc welding class. I also took a class on oxy-acetylene, an advanced arc welding class(after completing the basic class I was referring to) a beginning Mig/TIG class, and advanced Mig/TIG class, as well as a class on welder repair. As I recall I spent one or two nights running 7024, which damn near ran itself, and we ran it and some other rods in the advanced class, but none of that was the point of my comment. The point was that those three rods have been the most commonly used rods for longer than most weldors have been alive. If you can run those you can run anything.
just received my stubby lens kit tig finger and dvd from your store. I'm very excited to get it. I never tig welded before and I'm not a very good welder at all. I been watching your videos a while and decided to get a scratch start set up for my lincoln sa250 machine. I really appreciate your help providing items on your store website to help folks like me learn. my channel is not really welding related. I do mostly tractor videos but on occasion I need to weld a repair or make an add on for the tractor. mostly simple stuff. I'm hopeful with some seat time I will get the hang of it all and someday pick up a decent tig machine. thank you for all you have done to help others! be blessed in a very special way my friend and fellow content provider. Dave
Awesome video I've been welding on and off for ten years as a hobby and really enjoy the way you explain things it makes it easy for non pros to understand and helps me get better at welding. Keep up the good work.
Great shots of your welding it's nice to be able to see the puddle of the different electrodes and Behavior in different positions. So far I have enjoyed all of the videos and have learned about different types and sizes of electrodes and not just 7018 for everything.
Sir: You are a excellent instructor. l wish that you would collate all your instructions and put them on DVDs and make them available to interested parties. Thank you for helpful instructions, and may GOD bless you sir.
Excellent video on my favorite electrode. Currently I'm just using an AC buzzbox myself and this lets me do a lot more than otherwise would be possible.
Learned on 6011/6013 and a new at the time Forney plugfront buzzbox in the late fifties, on the farm. After getting out of the service in '73, traded up to a Forney 250A AC/DC Switch Hitter, still have it. I repaired all sorts of farm equipment with 6011/6013 until someone showed me 6010 and 7018. Wow! After that, I tended to use 6011 for root passes when appropriate and followed with 6010 or 7018, pretty much abandoned 6013. Proof was in the pudding. Much fewer repairs breaking again. I finally got a little experienced training in the 80s.
Jody I really enjoy how you show what you're doing and explain whats going on. I bought a tig welder and Im trying to learn as I go. I am a Patreon subscriber and like to hear the after show conversations you guys have. Makes me feel like I'm sitting there listening in. Thanks.
6011 on AC is great to have because of magnetized steel. AC is not affected. Some farm equipment becomes magnetic from constant friction with the ground. Pipe will also become magnetic if its spun or shoved through the ground like to get under railroad tracks.
I fairly new to stick welding. I find your videos very instructional and I try to use your tips and tricks when I practice with my everlast welders. Keep the great videos coming.
6011 is my rod of choice. It burns in really good, but it welds differently on each thing you weld. I weld lots of rusty material with it and don’t even sand off the rust. The AC kinda helps clean, and I usually run it way to hot, stopping to let it cool down (It beats lots of grinding). However, I almost always zig zag my weld. For me, it’s the only way to clean, and get everything burnt in really well. It works really well for me, but I would encourage anyone to cut and etch to find what works for them.
In class all we use are 7018 and I do a good job stacking dimes as most wld say. got on a job and only thing they had were 6011. Had no clue you were supposed to use a whip and pause technique. Still got alot to learn
Great video, Jody 👏👏 the info was spot on👌 love that 6011. Those arcshots were perfect and so were those camera angles👍 best 6011 video I've ever watched!
Thank you so much for your videos. Your channel is an invaluable resource. I appreciate it very much, and I'm not even a welder. I'm in Instrumentation and Controls.
6011 is my favorite. I use it for almost everything. On DCEP it's nice and aggressive for thick material. I quit using 6013 for thin material because I found that 6011 on DCEN is great. What surprised me was the high current required for DCEN. I weld 20 penny nail heads neatly together for art projects with 3/32 6011 DCEN and 95 amps. The arc is gentle. I feel like I'm using TIG. That seems crazy because the same rod on DCEP and 85 amps is aggressive enough for 0.380 steel.
Yeah, I hear you. It all comes down to lots of practice and technique. Rods like 7018 and 6013 have a quiet gentle arc.They seem easier to control and they leave a heavy slag cap resulting in a nice shiny bead. When I first tried welding with cellulosic rod (6010, 6011) I was put off and almost angry. "How the hell does anyone weld with these things? It's like trying to weld with a cutting torch." 6011 produces a hot aggressive "flame" that blasts out of the tip of the rod. You really can use it as a cutting torch. It will gouge deep into the material you're welding. Here's the thing. A beginner at 6011 doesn't yet have the feel and quick reflexes needed to use 6011. You get that by practice. Things happen very fast with 6011. You have to watch the puddle and anticipate what's going to happen. Jog the wrong way and it will gouge a big divot out of your material instantly. At first it's overwhelming and unforgiving. But it's no different than learning to fly an airplane or play the piano. At first, there's too much going on at once. With practice it becomes easy, effortless, second nature. Why bother to master cellulosic rod? The answer sounds like a paradox: once you master it, cellulosic rod gives you more control over exactly how the weld goes in. Strong welds require good penetration. The lack of slag means you can see what's going on and make it penetrate just how you wish. Once you learn to control it, you want all that wild power to easily melt and fuse the base material. That's the whole point of welding. The lack of slag, especially with Lincoln Fleetweld 180, means you can go back over metal you just laid down, if you want. You can use whatever pattern works best for what you're doing -- circles, zigzags, whip and pause, anything you want to make that weld go in how you want it to. Try out lots of things. Don't get stuck trying to use one technique like whip and pause. Cellulosic rod generates a lot of shielding gas, shielding the whole area around the arc so all the molten steel is visible but protected from the air. You can "paint" with metal, tie in to the sides, push the puddle where you want because the arc force is so strong. Don't try that with a heavy slag rod. You can't back up. And, with 6013, you have to keep pushing the metal up under the slag cap so it doesn't try to run around ahead of the arc. Anyway, practice, practice, practice. I use 6011 for thick material and I use it for the thinnest material, down to 0.040" sheet and steel wire smaller than 0.1". Any position, any kind of weld, you can do it with 6010/6011. It just takes practice. The only things I use 6013 or 7018 for are filling or building up material to improve strength or appearance. When I do that I have to plan my pass so the slag doesn't get in my way. I apologize for writing a novel. Lol.
Hi Phillip do you still have the welder you were using when you wrote this comment? Your welder polarity could be backwards internally? I've read reviews on certain "cheap" welders from Amazon, and the negative lead is actually showing a "positive voltage" on a volt meter. Because the internal wiring is backwards from the factory. I tried my arc welder with the electrode being negative, and it welds way more aggressively and way too hot, and you can't do anything with it. I confirmed polarity with a voltage meter just to be sure that I was actually running electrode positive. I now recommend to people to take a volt meter to their welder, instead of just blindly trusting that it's the right polarity.
Good video! A lot of times in the oilfields of N.M. the broken material that needs to be welded is often times rusted & may or may not be of quality steel & that's where the 6011 shines! It will weld in most positions & a little rust doesn't hurt its performance & as you stated,in our small welding shops,where tanks & pressure vessels are built, the machines used are usually straight 225 Amp a/c electric machines,& if necessary when a welder needs to make a repair in the field,the same rods used in the shop can be utilized on a d/c portable machine. & I have used it in the junkyard, to weld galvanized to schedule 40 steel & galvanized to galvanized steel & other rusted unknown grades of steel; & a lot of jobs that are not inspected & not required to meet a code,but must be strong,such as a farm implement repair, again the 6011 does the job.
Goddamn Jody I sure appreciate your time 6011 is my go to rod for rusty pipe an such while building corrals out here in the Wild West by goddamn If i don't think it will hold I'll just cap it with 7018 thank you for your time
Lincoln Fleetweld 180 is a hybrid 6011, best rod on the market. The method is fly fish , you go ahead and preheat and burn off some contamination and then go back in for deposit. Counter intuitive and I have seen No one post that, been doing it for 20 years. 7018 has no effect on contaminated substrate
Hi jody My name is malik I no nothing about welding but by watching your channel I managed to build me a very large gate and I like to thank you for that. I have bought another mig welder it's SIP HG2300 MIG TIG STICK WELDER I would like to practice on 3mm box section mild steel can you tell me what size ROD I should use thanks
On mug weldings machines it tells you what wsf and volts to use. I would say look on the machine or go online and get a form. Print it off and that would help a hell of a lot
Thanks for a great video on a basic (widely available) stick. Some of us may never go further down the infinite rabbit-hole of latest greatest must-have this month's bleeding edge equipment. But that doesn't mean you can't do a lot with your 110-Volt AC-Buzz Box, or whatever tools fit your space and your life, if you master the tools you have. This video showed me new things I hadn't noticed. A master in a craft can give half a dozen rules to follow, and half a dozen ways and why's to bend those rules. They will tell you why, and can hear what you say if you have a different idea, although they may not agree with you. We are all hostage to our life-experiences. The person who isn't a master will say, my rule is always right, no exceptions, and anyone who doesn't get in step is a fool, or evil, or whatever.
Great video! I'm new to welding. You mentioned that the weld penetrates more when you go weld uphill/bottom to top, would the fact that heat rises also contribute to the greater penetration when welding uphill/bottom to top? Thanks.
I have mastered the art of melting metal ! Welding I have not , I bought a Craftsman (1980's model) stick welder 35-230 for $50 with 2 boxes of 6011 1/8 and 3/32 , I could get a arc with the 3/32 but not the 1/8 rod just sticks . I'm a little better with my Forney 140 FC-i , I'm trying to weld steel bed frames (Free) My projects are a welding cart and a small coffee table (legs) with a wood top .
I've been fortunate that the first welder I bought and used was AC/DC....but I read some time ago, that 6011 couldn't qualify for any weld certificatins...is this still the case?
Another good video. I would like to see how you get along with 6011 and a dc inverter. Your warning about arcblow is what I experience making 6011 basically unusable.
I lover your videos, and I have visited your store. I would like to see you start selling some of the various stick electrodes. Your store seems to be primarily aimed at tig welding supplies, but it would be good to have a larger product offering. Even if you had to charge a little more for the product, to make a profit, people would still buy it when they see you using it in a video.
Can you point me to another of your videos that may talk about a good AC welder that works on 15amp? I know you mentioned it here to use smaller diameter 6011 stick for thinner metal 1/8 and below. I’m looking for an AC welder for infrequent small DIY at home garage weekend stuff. Thanks Jody! Always enjoy and learn from your videos!
Jody- Please to a video on metal core wire welding. Been using it for a few months in my shop now. I really like the clean pretty welds that are structurally far superior to hard wire especially on heavy mill scale.
You reaffirmed my reason for using 6011 in the majority of repairs I do. 6011 is just so damn versatile.
The BEST optics of the weld puddle ANYWHERE, hands down...
Ya too good... I started stick welding and couldn't see the puddle anywhere near as well as I can in the video. You have to have your face 6in away... I've tried it with a respirator but my lens gets a coat of smoke after one pass. Maybe I'll end up getting a magnifier at some point (notice how I didn't call it a cheater lens since I don't really agree that it's "cheating").
@@MetrologyEngineer Cheater lens is something people call a tool that helps another person out welds them. It's a tool, like saying a person is cheating brushing the slag off with a wire wheel because he only has a wire stick.
Man Jody litterally teaches a skill for free you have to pay money for. This guy is awesome as usual!!!
I used 1/8” 6011 on pretty much everything around the farm. I’m no pro by any measure but what I built and took to the field never broke. I just always made sure the pieces fit together and were clean. .Lincoln tombstone and later a Forney but I never got a high frequency box.
I’m a huge fan of 6011 rods for open root, most of my co-workers grab the 6010, but I think the 6011 is a much smoother run. Great video!!!
Brooke Turner what do you run your 6011 at for open root 4g and 3g.
These videos are great for a guy like me. I am a millwright in a plant. A plant that doesn’t have dedicated welders and we do all the welding and fabbing. Most of what we do is 7018 and 6011 for the mild steel applications. Your videos show the subtle movements that have made my jobs that much easier and giving me better results. Also makes me want to go for a welding ticket as well ! Lol
A true teacher and admirer of the art ... Jody that’s what I see you as.
Never condescending always completely open and sharing.
Thanks for the great videography!
Youve helped me ALOT during my welding education, 3 months into my education watching your videos everyday during lunch and at home, thank you so much for what you do!
Novice/extreme newbie here(a.k.a "green"). I have read and see videos and understand the basic physics and metallurgy. Safety first of course. Thank you for the detailed explanations while showing the video-a picture is worth 1k words. When combined, you sir are a good teacher. Thank you!
That was some great instruction and demonstration Jody! The videography is outstanding! I ALWAYS like how you show the weld and bead, explain things as you are welding and then the views of test cuts to show penetration! Just plain excellent all the way around! Thank you very much!
Hey Jody I have a question about welding rod smaller than 1/8"! How do you keep the rod from getting so hot at the end of the rod next to the stinger?
I live on a farm/ranch and 6011 is all I use. Too much grease, rust and dirt when I have to get something up and running in a hurry before the weather changes. 6011 works for me and I have three welders, one diesel, one gas, and one 220v electric AC/DC.
Hey Jody, thanks for all the stick welding vids! Just picked up an old Airco 250 amp AC/DC machine for $275 to go with my toy H.F. 90amp wire feed(a gift; the price was right!). Here we go re-learning how to stick weld again. I learned in high school on a Lincoln buzz-box, I'm 63 now. So much for the old dogs/new tricks story!
.....ha same as me, 65 and learnt in junior high, same as you. Burnt the bottom of my blue jeans, frayed ends, 70's look. from learning on old tombstone buzz....
For most folks they couldn’t show up to a job and weld. For Jody he could stack dimes with a some car batteries, a pair of jumper cables, and a coat hanger for filler.
Or if he was really in a pinch, using a magnifying glass.
This video showed me a couple of things I needed to address when running 6011. Welding is just a hobby for me but I still always want to get things right. I've learned a lot from watching your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Thank you for the instruction . You are very clear and concise . I am going to try some 6011 . I notice not many people are criticizing your welds or knowledge . I get tired of the know it alls . You have been there and done it .
Confirms a a lot of what my experience has told me about 6011 rods . My several decades as a farmer, with nothing more than an AC buzzbox for backup , saw many repairs done on hard working farm equipment with 6011 rods .
The best channel welding,a hug here from Portugal 🇵🇹🇵🇹🇵🇹
I used 6011 rods when I was learning how to weld with my powerarc. Probably not the easiest rod to learn with but it was all I had access to at the time.
I’ve found that joint prep makes the biggest difference in penetration. A standard T will do just fine but with a bevel it’ll be the strongest T you’ll ever have. Throw in a 6011/10 root and a 7018 fill and cap and you’ll be gold
100%
" uses a 10 lb inverter stick welder with a 1/16 " Dia. rod ...." I've got a lincoln buzz box. Thank you for sharing your experience and your time with me. God Bless. Stay safe and keep those nails Done.
As a farmer, 6011 is my go-to rod. It's not fussy about having clean surfaces. It penetrates better. It freezes faster, so the puddle goes where I want it to, rather than how gravity pulls it. You can play with it more during the weld. It's not pretty. If I have the option, 7018 goes over the 6011.
It is known as farmer rod lol.
6011 is a ranchers best friend.
Hi jodi, i just bought your 2019 4 dvd volume 9 pack, i also have volume 2 dvd set. . These are way better than the old Hobart school, vhs videos, way more content, and more clear arc shots, Well worth the small price. Thanks William
How do you not love this guy! Excellent teacher. Expert analysis with testing and proof positive of good and bad. Keep up the fantastic work. Heading to the store to keep you in front of that camera. I haven’t welded in a long time but you’ve re-ignited the love of it. Fantastic stuff!
I love your videos, I'm 15 and I am about to do a fabrication and welding apprenticeship an your videos are helping me so much, thanks heaps I'm your number 1 fan haha👌🏾
Wilson, hows the apprenticeship going? Best regards!
I find myself watching your videos multiple times and I never get bored. Great Job.
Learned in the '60's on 6011 and an old Lincoln AC toombstone. Great video, thanks.
In my welding years 6011 was always my go to rod. Rusty, dirty, thin metal 6011 was the rod I would use. Up north here in Canada the approved pipe procedures were 6011 root 7018 cap. With its fast freeze ability you can close a hole or a big gap easily. I agree, it’s Avery useful rod.
I love these rods for every reason mentioned here already. They make great root passes, giving you the ability to keyhole the roof into the root. I also like the inverted T weave for a hot pass and a box weave or triangular weave for the cover pass.
Richard Valcourt
So is 7018 always suck or does it have it place. To a newed does it really matter.
madbear3512 by no means does 7018 suck, it is just a different purpose rod. Because of the flux it needs more amperage to burn, the filler in the rod is of higher tensile strength and it make a nicer bead. It is possible to weld pipe joints or any other joint with 7018 all the way. 6011 burns at a lower amperage and is fast freeze making it easier to control in an open root, it also has a bit more cleaning action in the presence of contaminants where 7018 does not. Because of its fast freeze characteristics 6011 does not make as nice a bead as 7018. 6011 has 60,000 lb tensile strength and 7018 has 70,000 lb tensile strength which is not a big deal. They are both nice rods to use in my opinion.
Richard
How often would you use 7018 then. For thick metals
madbear3512 6011 is probably just my preference but you can use 7018 almost anywhere although it requires a bit more amperage. Here is link to the Lincoln website explaining uses for all kinds of welding rods.
www.lincolnelectric.com/en-ca/consumables/stick-electrodes/pages/stick-electrodes.aspx
Here you will see probably all the welding rods made and their applications. The rods I used the most often were 6011, 7018, 7014, 7024 and 11018 in sizes from 3/32” to 1/4” in diameter.
Great video -- 100% content and no nonsense, music or fluff, thank you.
When I first learned to weld at San Diego City College in 1984, I was using 5/32" 6010 on 1/2"" steel plate. My instructor Terry Block always told us that once we knew how to weld with 6010/6011 that we could run anything else. Our booths were set up on DC reverse and the training was geared towards the shipyards in the area where 6010 and 7018 were what most of the students would probably be working. Spent pretty much the whole semester in that booth, four hours a night, two nights a week running 6010, and later 7018.
QuickShot it was a basic arc welding class, so I'm not sure what other methods I should of been learning in an arc welding class. I also took a class on oxy-acetylene, an advanced arc welding class(after completing the basic class I was referring to) a beginning Mig/TIG class, and advanced Mig/TIG class, as well as a class on welder repair. As I recall I spent one or two nights running 7024, which damn near ran itself, and we ran it and some other rods in the advanced class, but none of that was the point of my comment. The point was that those three rods have been the most commonly used rods for longer than most weldors have been alive. If you can run those you can run anything.
just received my stubby lens kit tig finger and dvd from your store. I'm very excited to get it. I never tig welded before and I'm not a very good welder at all. I been watching your videos a while and decided to get a scratch start set up for my lincoln sa250 machine. I really appreciate your help providing items on your store website to help folks like me learn. my channel is not really welding related. I do mostly tractor videos but on occasion I need to weld a repair or make an add on for the tractor. mostly simple stuff. I'm hopeful with some seat time I will get the hang of it all and someday pick up a decent tig machine. thank you for all you have done to help others! be blessed in a very special way my friend and fellow content provider. Dave
Glad you demonstrated the downhill technique, at the shipyards we had to weld coastguard vessel door trim using 6011 downhand. Good video man.
Awesome video I've been welding on and off for ten years as a hobby and really enjoy the way you explain things it makes it easy for non pros to understand and helps me get better at welding. Keep up the good work.
Great shots of your welding it's nice to be able to see the puddle of the different electrodes and Behavior in different positions. So far I have enjoyed all of the videos and have learned about different types and sizes of electrodes and not just 7018 for everything.
Sir: You are a excellent instructor. l wish that you would collate all your instructions and put them on DVDs and make them available to interested parties. Thank you for helpful instructions, and may GOD bless you sir.
I think he has them on his website.
Excellent video on my favorite electrode. Currently I'm just using an AC buzzbox myself and this lets me do a lot more than otherwise would be possible.
You seem to be a never-ending wealth of knowledge! Great video again!
Learned on 6011/6013 and a new at the time Forney plugfront buzzbox in the late fifties, on the farm. After getting out of the service in '73, traded up to a Forney 250A AC/DC Switch Hitter, still have it. I repaired all sorts of farm equipment with 6011/6013 until someone showed me 6010 and 7018. Wow! After that, I tended to use 6011 for root passes when appropriate and followed with 6010 or 7018, pretty much abandoned 6013. Proof was in the pudding. Much fewer repairs breaking again. I finally got a little experienced training in the 80s.
Jody, thank you for the depth, clarity and insight on such a practical topic. I really appreciate the direct reference to prior vids.
Jody I really enjoy how you show what you're doing and explain whats going on. I bought a tig welder and Im trying to learn as I go. I am a Patreon subscriber and like to hear the after show conversations you guys have. Makes me feel like I'm sitting there listening in. Thanks.
6011 on AC is great to have because of magnetized steel. AC is not affected. Some farm equipment becomes magnetic from constant friction with the ground. Pipe will also become magnetic if its spun or shoved through the ground like to get under railroad tracks.
6011 was the very first rods I welded with when I first bought my Everlast stick welder.
I fairly new to stick welding. I find your videos very instructional and I try to use your tips and tricks when I practice with my everlast welders. Keep the great videos coming.
I love these videos detailing different rods! I learn so much from every one, thank you and keep up the good work!
I started watching your channel when i first started in welding 4 years ago, i still love your channel. Keep it up 👍👍
I have soft spot for 6011 rods. They are one of the first rods I ever used when I bought my powerarc welder.
Thank you for explaining the "whip and pause" technique. I just started messing around with my Longevity 140 stick welder. I will try it!
Learn more every time I watch.Thanks again,Denny.
6011 is my rod of choice. It burns in really good, but it welds differently on each thing you weld. I weld lots of rusty material with it and don’t even sand off the rust. The AC kinda helps clean, and I usually run it way to hot, stopping to let it cool down (It beats lots of grinding). However, I almost always zig zag my weld. For me, it’s the only way to clean, and get everything burnt in really well. It works really well for me, but I would encourage anyone to cut and etch to find what works for them.
I learned how to stick weld on my everlast with 6011. They are my favorite rod. I guess I'm a bit sentimental.
Same here sucks to get used to a single rod and g tv hen relearning 7018 every few months 😂
beautiful welds Jodie ... i like that it"s not another tig video
Quite the welder indeed-very good video,thank you for your wisdom on welding..
Excellent Jody!
I love 6011 and this video taught me some tricks. Ya never stop learning.
I just got a job at a shipyard along the MIssissippi in Missouri that uses just 6011s. The weld test was the first time I had ever used them.
Towboater here! Just wanted to give a shout out. I run Lower Mississippi. From St. Louis to New Orleans.
Every video you put out is awesome! Thank you Jody!
In class all we use are 7018 and I do a good job stacking dimes as most wld say. got on a job and only thing they had were 6011. Had no clue you were supposed to use a whip and pause technique. Still got alot to learn
Jody you are the Man for welding videos they are always very good in content and your explanations of what you are doing are also great!!
I learned how to weld using 6011 rods with my everlast welder. Good times man. Good times.
“Just bring the hood” well I showed up in shorts and a T shirt with just my hood and Aparently that was not what they wanted.
Great video, Jody 👏👏 the info was spot on👌 love that 6011. Those arcshots were perfect and so were those camera angles👍 best 6011 video I've ever watched!
Thank you so much for your videos. Your channel is an invaluable resource. I appreciate it very much, and I'm not even a welder. I'm in Instrumentation and Controls.
6011 is my favorite. I use it for almost everything. On DCEP it's nice and aggressive for thick material. I quit using 6013 for thin material because I found that 6011 on DCEN is great.
What surprised me was the high current required for DCEN. I weld 20 penny nail heads neatly together for art projects with 3/32 6011 DCEN and 95 amps. The arc is gentle. I feel like I'm using TIG. That seems crazy because the same rod on DCEP and 85 amps is aggressive enough for 0.380 steel.
Phillip Landmeier its so much harder for me to use than other rods.. i just started welding tho.
Yeah, I hear you. It all comes down to lots of practice and technique. Rods like 7018 and 6013 have a quiet gentle arc.They seem easier to control and they leave a heavy slag cap resulting in a nice shiny bead.
When I first tried welding with cellulosic rod (6010, 6011) I was put off and almost angry. "How the hell does anyone weld with these things? It's like trying to weld with a cutting torch." 6011 produces a hot aggressive "flame" that blasts out of the tip of the rod. You really can use it as a cutting torch. It will gouge deep into the material you're welding.
Here's the thing. A beginner at 6011 doesn't yet have the feel and quick reflexes needed to use 6011. You get that by practice. Things happen very fast with 6011. You have to watch the puddle and anticipate what's going to happen. Jog the wrong way and it will gouge a big divot out of your material instantly. At first it's overwhelming and unforgiving. But it's no different than learning to fly an airplane or play the piano. At first, there's too much going on at once. With practice it becomes easy, effortless, second nature.
Why bother to master cellulosic rod? The answer sounds like a paradox: once you master it, cellulosic rod gives you more control over exactly how the weld goes in. Strong welds require good penetration. The lack of slag means you can see what's going on and make it penetrate just how you wish. Once you learn to control it, you want all that wild power to easily melt and fuse the base material. That's the whole point of welding. The lack of slag, especially with Lincoln Fleetweld 180, means you can go back over metal you just laid down, if you want. You can use whatever pattern works best for what you're doing -- circles, zigzags, whip and pause, anything you want to make that weld go in how you want it to. Try out lots of things. Don't get stuck trying to use one technique like whip and pause.
Cellulosic rod generates a lot of shielding gas, shielding the whole area around the arc so all the molten steel is visible but protected from the air. You can "paint" with metal, tie in to the sides, push the puddle where you want because the arc force is so strong. Don't try that with a heavy slag rod. You can't back up. And, with 6013, you have to keep pushing the metal up under the slag cap so it doesn't try to run around ahead of the arc.
Anyway, practice, practice, practice. I use 6011 for thick material and I use it for the thinnest material, down to 0.040" sheet and steel wire smaller than 0.1". Any position, any kind of weld, you can do it with 6010/6011. It just takes practice.
The only things I use 6013 or 7018 for are filling or building up material to improve strength or appearance. When I do that I have to plan my pass so the slag doesn't get in my way.
I apologize for writing a novel. Lol.
Phillip Landmeier Thanks for the info on 6011 👍
Hi Phillip do you still have the welder you were using when you wrote this comment? Your welder polarity could be backwards internally? I've read reviews on certain "cheap" welders from Amazon, and the negative lead is actually showing a "positive voltage" on a volt meter. Because the internal wiring is backwards from the factory. I tried my arc welder with the electrode being negative, and it welds way more aggressively and way too hot, and you can't do anything with it. I confirmed polarity with a voltage meter just to be sure that I was actually running electrode positive. I now recommend to people to take a volt meter to their welder, instead of just blindly trusting that it's the right polarity.
@@Ritalie Hmm. I'm still using the same machine. I've never checked it with my meter. Hah. I'll have to do that.
Good video! A lot of times in the oilfields of N.M. the broken material that needs to be welded is often times rusted & may or may not be of quality steel & that's where the 6011 shines! It will weld in most positions & a little rust doesn't hurt its performance & as you stated,in our small welding shops,where tanks & pressure vessels are built, the machines used are usually straight 225 Amp a/c electric machines,& if necessary when a welder needs to make a repair in the field,the same rods used in the shop can be utilized on a d/c portable machine. & I have used it in the junkyard, to weld galvanized to schedule 40 steel & galvanized to galvanized steel & other rusted unknown grades of steel; & a lot of jobs that are not inspected & not required to meet a code,but must be strong,such as a farm implement repair, again the 6011 does the job.
6011-the rod that will set everything around it on fire. I use a lot of them and have the scorched spots in the yard to prove it.
why is it Everytime I use 6011 it burst and torch a fire
@@tyrellchazvillanueva A little too hot. They will do that if ran too hot for its diameter.
You have a insanely steady hand
Goddamn Jody I sure appreciate your time 6011 is my go to rod for rusty pipe an such while building corrals out here in the Wild West by goddamn If i don't think it will hold I'll just cap it with 7018 thank you for your time
Thanks Jody, interesting to learn about the differences in fillets from different rod types.
6011 is great for any situation. 7018 the weld surface needs to be clean. 6011 will cut right through rust. Just show up with your helmet...
Thank you for another great video Jody learned by watching your videos and never lose interest. Thank you.
Thanks for tips and tricks for a beginner like me. Kudos!
Thanks Jody!
Make Build Modify hhvgg
Ggg
All I have is a inverter stick welder. I've found that the 5/64 6011 rods are pretty useful as well.
Lincoln Fleetweld 180 is a hybrid 6011, best rod on the market. The method is fly fish , you go ahead and preheat and burn off some contamination and then go back in for deposit. Counter intuitive and I have seen No one post that, been doing it for 20 years. 7018 has no effect on contaminated substrate
Hi jody
My name is malik I no nothing about welding but by watching your channel I managed to build me a very large gate and I like to thank you for that.
I have bought another mig welder it's SIP HG2300 MIG TIG STICK WELDER I would like to practice on 3mm box section mild steel can you tell me what size ROD I should use thanks
On mug weldings machines it tells you what wsf and volts to use. I would say look on the machine or go online and get a form. Print it off and that would help a hell of a lot
1/8" 80/95 amps
Thanks for a great video on a basic (widely available) stick. Some of us may never go further down the infinite rabbit-hole of latest greatest must-have this month's bleeding edge equipment. But that doesn't mean you can't do a lot with your 110-Volt AC-Buzz Box, or whatever tools fit your space and your life, if you master the tools you have. This video showed me new things I hadn't noticed.
A master in a craft can give half a dozen rules to follow, and half a dozen ways and why's to bend those rules. They will tell you why, and can hear what you say if you have a different idea, although they may not agree with you.
We are all hostage to our life-experiences. The person who isn't a master will say, my rule is always right, no exceptions, and anyone who doesn't get in step is a fool, or evil, or whatever.
I love using 6011 in my powerarc stick welder. Thanks for the great videos.
Great video! I'm new to welding. You mentioned that the weld penetrates more when you go weld uphill/bottom to top, would the fact that heat rises also contribute to the greater penetration when welding uphill/bottom to top? Thanks.
I have mastered the art of melting metal ! Welding I have not , I bought a Craftsman (1980's model) stick welder 35-230 for $50 with 2 boxes of 6011 1/8 and 3/32 , I could get a arc with the 3/32 but not the 1/8 rod just sticks . I'm a little better with my Forney 140 FC-i , I'm trying to weld steel bed frames (Free) My projects are a welding cart and a small coffee table (legs) with a wood top .
the best teacher ever thank you sir
Thanks for video, i find it hard to make 6011 look good but this helps.
Excellent instruction, excellent video and excellent explanation! Love your videos, Jody. Keep up the good work
Thank you. I always learn when watching your videos.
So I was welding right I thought something was off with the 6011 rod👍👍
Great instruction and video clarity as always. I love/prefer welding pipe fencing downhill with 6011 1/8" rod.
Another great lesson and video, really helps me out. Thanks
Another informative and easy to understand video! Thanks Jody!
I've been fortunate that the first welder I bought and used was AC/DC....but I read some time ago, that 6011 couldn't qualify for any weld certificatins...is this still the case?
Nice I was just using some 1/8th 6011 and I was getting a little bit of undercut.. But I was weaving.. not whip and pausing.. Great video thankyou..:)
Can you weld aluminum with the AC buzz box. Great video too.
love the content! probably the best on YT. just got some stuff from the store as well to support you! keep it up!
I love 6011, but most of the time i use it to cut metal in my garage.
Another good video. I would like to see how you get along with 6011 and a dc inverter. Your warning about arcblow is what I experience making 6011 basically unusable.
I use them a lot Thanks for doing this video.
You mentioned 6010 does not work well with small inverter welders, What is your experience with the Miller Dynasty welders?Thank you for a great video
I lover your videos, and I have visited your store. I would like to see you start selling some of the various stick electrodes. Your store seems to be primarily aimed at tig welding supplies, but it would be good to have a larger product offering. Even if you had to charge a little more for the product, to make a profit, people would still buy it when they see you using it in a video.
Such a good vídeo and a good class, thank you so much for sharing your time and knowlege with us.
High 5 from Brasil.
Hola Si les dieran A escoger entre El 6011 y 7018 cuál Escogerían Para Soldar ?
Beautiful welds as always!
What's the advantage of 6011 ? in Europe we use 6013 for all general fabrication without a problem, AC or DC.
Can you point me to another of your videos that may talk about a good AC welder that works on 15amp? I know you mentioned it here to use smaller diameter 6011 stick for thinner metal 1/8 and below. I’m looking for an AC welder for infrequent small DIY at home garage weekend stuff. Thanks Jody! Always enjoy and learn from your videos!
Jody- Please to a video on metal core wire welding. Been using it for a few months in my shop now. I really like the clean pretty welds that are structurally far superior to hard wire especially on heavy mill scale.