MORE WELDING AND FABRICATION VIDEOS HERE:th-cam.com/play/PLfbf78fMz9Vol0uX2-GNc6mLi75zpqb5f.html LEARN HOW TO WELD VIDEOS HERE:th-cam.com/video/ADa1I319GJ0/w-d-xo.html
If you can find some cast iron filler and flux (atorch or TIG, or even a crude homemade fluxed electrode) I'd be interested to see how well like on like cast filler might do, considering welding is basically just micro casting. Keeping in mind there are several types of cast iron: basic gray lowest melting point, white (aka "chilled", same ingredients as gray but they put chilling plates in the mold to make an extra-hard wear-resistant surface), nodular/ductile (has alloying elements to change the grain shape from flake to spherical), and malleable (An expensive special heat treatment of white, largely replaced by easier/faster to cast "nodular" back around WW2)
I'm a well retired electrical engineer who is always creating things ( lightweight welding stuff, old car patches etc ) and your welding tech is great. I learn so much from your video's. Thanks a lot, Colin UK 🇬🇧.
Just got myself a andeli mig 160 welder never welded anything before been watching your TH-cam videos and found them very helpful keep up the good work.
I never knew you could weld cast iron with standard rods, or wire. I always thought it was braising, or nothing. And the heat is the most important. Thank you.
Glad to help Michael. Heat really is the key. MIG Silicon Bronze is by far the best method I've tested. I have a video on that also. th-cam.com/video/Cm3_uv-PhPM/w-d-xo.html
@@massa-blasta arc force? My welder have not it Just a simple inverter ,no antistick,no arc force,no hot start ... 7018 works well I can make good looking and strong welds with them 6013 are backward to use for me
That’s a lot stronger than I thought it would be, thanks for the informative video sir. I can’t afford brazing gear or being triggered so I find this very helpful.
Thanks James! I was not expecting those results. I'll be honest, I didnt expect it to work in the first place. The results proved me wrong! Thanks buddy and good luck on your repair
@@BrandonLund thanks, you to. I'm making a firepit/burner out of a propane tank next. Second one I've done. Whole new design. I'll keep watching so I can pinch your ideas & tips.
Well it will certainly hold your bacon and eggs, But I still will use cast 80 or 90 rods for cast iron even thought 6013 and 7018 will work and will weld both sides if I can. Brandon, again a good video and you showed us that 6013 is a very good all purpose rod, always keep some on hand.
Interesting result! I remember when they sent off our welds to a lab in college, for gas welding of cracked sawmill saws. That's what I worked on and was, a Sawfiler. And their's would pound on it simulating the rolling on huge tensioned wheels would do to them in a sawmill thousands of times until they would crack again. This is so much simpler and I think it's a totally legit, scientific test. Unlike my more complex example, your pan only does two things cooks and carries. And all we're interested in is the carry part. I doubt anyone will be carting around anywhere near 100lbs in that little pan, lol,=great repair! Hugely successful in fact and obviously, there is zero need to weld the other side, that's cool. I would just for aesthetics and just fill gaps and finish it up flat and clean, so I could get a nice seasoning on the pan afterwards. Our welds were forged while hot and on thin metal, maybe 3mm thick, so they would never need welding from both sides and if anything, it would weaken the weld once finished on the first side. Everything gets smooshed together anyway, by pounding it immediately afterward and then reheated over the whole crack, to red hot and forged again. If you peened it as quickly as possible while the weld is still hot/soft, you could do similar and likely did, to some small extent and pushed some metal into the crack, strengthening it. Weld with one hand, have hammer in other, while still hot?
Thats pretty awesome! I love hearing stories like this. I've heard of forging cast but never done it but I have always been interested in the process though! @Bill Does Stuff
Im currently doing weld repair for someone and im glad im using a nickel chromium filler to tig weld it. I had no idea muggy nickel weld filler was the strongest in the list. My colleague at work told me i should use a nickel chromium because its very strong for cast iron. Glad i made the right decision.
Viewer madcap magician correctly guessed the weight after watching some of the other episodes. If you havent seen the cast iron welding series, be sure to check out the link in the description.
Thankyou for your video's. Now i know why my electrode is 6013 and @ 150amp 55 Arc 60 Heat start even more unstable welding. Im new and beginner and thankyou for your tips! In our country mostly uses 6013 I'm from Philippines thankyousomuch! Much videos of yours to watch 🙂🙂
The best way ive found is pretty much the way you did it. Just let the piece cool completely between welds. I welded an exhaust manifold once with success that way
😮 I was impressed that it was holding up the chain with a little bit of sand. I do have a question I have a cast iron pot belly stove can not find them anymore it has cracks in the side what is a good welding rod and implements for a Lodge cast iron pot belly stove repair
If it's in the heat firebox area I would suggest a nickel rod and if it's a leg or something that doesn't get above 600 degrees I would use silicon bronze mig wire
@@BrandonLund thank you for your response thank you thank you. I will definitely experiment with that. Seeing it's so difficult to find a non EPA wood cook stove I was going to build one using hot-rolled quarter inch steel plate. Or would you recommend something else? I kind of have to go on the cheap. As well as basically learning how to do it as I go.
@keillorchristoph sometimes building on the fly gives the best results, modifying as you go. I'm not an expert on stoves but I would think 1/4" would be adequate.
Brandon, it’s awesome that the weld is strong but when i think of cast iron in my local i think of wood stoves and of course the cast iron cookware……so, when you apply heat to the cast iron while cooking it on the wood stove or fire…….doesnt it affect how strong the weld is after you weld it? I have a 100 year old wood stove that i broke the foot pedal to the oven door. I asked around several people who specifically work on these stoves and he told me it is very difficult to weld it since the constant heating and cooling of the medal….
It will. It's one of the reasons I refuse to repair cast iron pans for people. Woodstoves don't worry me due to the high heat...much higher than a cast iron pan
Once upon a yesteryear, I welded some cracks in Chevy engine block with 6013 rod. I tried welding it cold with wasn’t working ( of course ) so we got out a torch and heated the area around the crack then it welded much nicer than I expected as that was the only rod I had , no nickel rod. The main thing with REAL cast iron is the pre- heating. To really properly weld real cast iron is ( if possible ) heat the whole thing in oven then take out and weld and then put back in oven and cool very slowly. BUT who can do that? 99% of the time you’re limited with just heating with a torch and trying not to cool too fast. Many moons later I welded up a water pump for a well with nickel stick rod and it held AIR as well as water pressure. So yes , it is possible to get solid sealing welds with stick rod. ( it was a jigsaw puzzle not just a crack )
Hi There. Thank you for this tutorial you really helped me out. I am restoring some cast Iron gates from 1814 that I have had to basically rebuild. I had never welded cast iron before and was failing miserably until I watched this. The key is not to put to much heat into It other wise the whole thing falls apart. Thank you from across the pond. Eddie. Abbeydale Machine and Tool Co. Ltd Birmingham United Kingdom
Very good and easy to understand demo of cast iron repair. I look forward to one more such experiment using E 7016 iron powder type electrode. This is widely used in India for non machinable cast iron repair and maintenance welding. Thanks for wonderful video.
Shhhhh your going to spoil it for him and take away his fun. People love to find fault and things to complain about. I'm guessing he skipped through the video or he would have seen what we all saw lol.
soooooooo, I gotta go buy a welder next time my cast iron skillet breaks? Just kidding! Great video! just goes to prove that when someone says it can’t be done, someone who thinks outside the box shows that it can indeed be done. Well done sir!
J W Dickinson you could actually fix it on the cheap using a MAPP gas torch to do the preheat and brazing. But the torch and rod would still cost more than a new Lodge pan.
Matthew Hall very true...however, Brandon just used the pan as a test piece to prove the process. This obviously carries over to other cast iron parts, like vintage car exhaust manifolds that can no longer be found or cast parts that would far out cost the repair supplies or service.
Great I've never thought of welding cast iron with 6013 I guess in a pinch it can be done I've used 7018 or regular cast iron rods that holds pretty good everyday you can learn something new
Hi Brandon, I thought you did a very good job of presenting a fair test of the 6013 rods, which is one of the most common rods available in Australia. I think that you might have something of an advantage given that you are trying to repair a modern item where the casting mix has been more tightly controlled. But that is what you want in conducting an experiment, to control the number of variables in each round of the experiment. I work at a private school in Melbourne Australia as a Carpenter who also does welding repairs. Given the school is over 160 years old there are cast iron components in all sorts of places. A lot of it is a very dirty shitty cast that has been in the elements for the better part of a century or more. Some stuff you just can't save and if it's failure is likely to injure someone then it gets replaced with an in sympathy substitute. So as you can see, I have a interesting relationship with cast iron.
Thank you! I agree the cast iron of today is probably more controlled. We will be doing a lot more of these types of videos coming up real soon. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Very good video & very impressive "strength test" demonstration. First of all, I'm not a professional welder, but I've had the opportunity to oxy-acy braze & weld, arc weld, solid Mig & flux core, and Silver solder (HVAC). Our mail box is on a cast iron water pump and a snow plow clipped it in January, busted in several pieces laying in the snow. I waited until the snow melted some & collected the parts & decided I would attempt to glue this mess back together. With a trailer full of generator, Lincoln 210MP, handful of cast iron rods, grinder, and a bucket full of hope, I got started on the repair. The rod was 1/8" but that's what I had (1/16" or 3/32" would have been better for this job), and I got these at a big box store (total of 6 sticks). After grinding, tacked and pre-heating (Propane hand torch), I used 1/2" welds at opposite sides, peened, moved again, repeated until the first part was welded back on the bottom pipe. Moved upwards & used the rods until they were gone, then switched to the flux-core (0.030 dia) because I wasn't done yet. Long story short, I was able to finish back to a reasonable facsimile of what the pump looked like before the snowplow plowed it and the mail box. Nothing I did would pass muster from a professional welder, but my new mail box is affixed to the pump and hasn't fallen over yet. My favorite for repairing cast iron has always been using flux covered Brass rods, but it would have been a little more difficult for me to move my oxy-acy setup. I wanted to try the stick option on the new 210MP, and it worked very well. The flux core Mig worked ok, not nearly as aesthetically pleasing, but the job is done & I can live with it. Your videos are well done and provide insight to me as to what I can do with what I've got to work with. Thank you for your efforts, I certainly enjoy learning from them.
What a great comment and thank you for sharing. As you pointed out, these videos are to give some insight on what to expect when using a specific process. Sometimes it might not be the prettiest but if it's all we have than at least we know what to expect rather than toss it in the trash.
@@BrandonLund Thank you for your reply. My Dad owned auto salvage yards, transmission shops, painting & auto body shop, and I started assisting him (at 15 years of age) while he was the body man at the Oxnard, CA Earl Schieb Paint shop. Production, not so much quality, was the highest driver at Schieb's, so I mixed Bondo and primered for Pop and learned to spray paint motorcycles & cars. Other business ventures brought more experience for me, so I've been very fortunate to be exposed to different learning opportunities. My Dad stuck me in front of an old Hobart, almost taller than I was at 9 years of age (1960), and gave me a tin of 6011 sticks; he found it was cheaper to do this then let me run loose in the salvage yard. So I'm not without some knowledge of welding things together, I'm not in the league as you are. Keep up the great videos and sharing your insights of welding. Take care, from an old HVAC guy.
Thanks buddy! I appreciate the sub and your support! I've been working on rebuild projects lately but starting this friday we are back in full swing with welding and fabrication videos.
Thanks for this video, I’m preparing myself for a huge cast iron bowl repair that measures 6 feet wide and it is currently in two equal pieces lol I’m probably gonna use ceramic blankets and a number 10 rosebud tip for preheating
I used 316L filler to fill the gaps and tack and then reheat the part and use cast nickel filler rod all in the TIG welding process, pin holes were easier to fill, heat part again after welding with peening, then let heat soak for several hours. I believe it is important to reheat the affected heat zones to help the metal reduce stresses. My part was a cast iron gas manifold venturi 1-1/2" NPT connection fractured from misalignment/stress failure. Base metal was about 1/4" thick, maybe more.
@mongomay1 Interesting! I have tried 316L and didn't have good luck but I also didn't use it like you mentioned. I'm going to have to give that a try! Thank you!
@@BrandonLund It seems the 316L helps float the junk up. grind it clean, then hit it with the nickel, clean out the intrusion/floaters and weld some more it is a PITA, but the idea is to rescue the part and keep the plant running. Have to have a specific goal and then work something until you get it fixed. The part I mentioned was 2 weeks out for a natural gas venturi to an industrial oven and we could not have any leaks. A small needle scaler can work for peening.
Try 309l, it's a higher nickle content.. I've had good luck with 309 using tig on exhaust manifolds with a good preheat and good post heat, no nickle rods or brazing and no leaks
Enjoyed the video. I have an antique scale where a roughly 1" round cast iron bar was broken in the middle and so the two parts need to be joined that are weight bearing. I wanted to see if you had any suggestions.
Best thing for beveling joints without contamination is a simple carbide burr. Use it in an air die grinder if your compressor tank is big enough, or get an electric die grinder for $100-ish and not have to worry about air. Also, an air hammer with a blunted tip works great for peening, and peens much more evenly than you can by hand.
The 6013 running via a homemade welder via MOTs can penetrate rust and do just about anything "professional" electrodes can do. Yes, anneal cast iron in lime after welding for best results.
Great video and quite surprising! Would love to see you braze that pan with some straight copper res. housing wire using brazing flux if needed. Brandon L - you're the best!
I was tig welding some steel one time and couldn't figure why it was taking so much heat to melt the rod. Turns out it was a piece of copper wire I had mistaken for tig rod. It's fused with the steel though. I'm curious what the breaking point of brazed joint would be what rod composition works best.
Unfortunately this "project" turned into a series so we dont have actual numbers but if I had to guess I would say you loose about 1/3 the strength when repairing. Mainly because the piece work hardens in the heat effected zone. It becomes less flexible.
The safe answer is no. The only reason I say this is because cast iron can crack again after numerous heat cycles. It could be years or it may never happen but because its possible I would not recommend doing it. God forbid if hot grease leaked out from a crack or the handle broke and spilled hot oil. It could be fatal. As far as food contacting the weld metal. I wouldn't be concerned unless it was repaired with nickel. Nickel is a carcinogen.
Moral of the story, don't underestimate the E6013. Moreover, it's the welder not the material. Most countries don't have access to electrodes beyond the E6013. Overall, you're a great welder.
Great suggestion Daniele, I believe it should work, but just how much it will hold compared to the others? We will soon find out! Plan to see this in an upcoming episode. Thanks again for the suggestion!
@@BrandonLund on the charts seems that may work better than 7018 because of nickel chrome and other metals content in the stainless steel rods You can try using 304 306 308 309 312 316 rods so 6 attempt to do
I wondered why in many countries around the world they weld almost every kind of steel and cast iron with 6013. Try to weld in AC current. BTW how to weld cast zinc, i need something cheaper than the muggywelds product. Thanks.
Welding cast iron. Is something that is a tricky repair. Low Heat and Peening seems to work well. I would like to see how cast iron repair will hold up when the metal gets hot and cold cycles repeated constantly as in an engine block, like a section of 3"x 4" piece is missing from the side of an engine and replaced the a piece of steel, will it leak oil ? Great Video, thanks for the info. William from Orange County California
Hey William cast iron that is heat cycled in air versus heat cycled in fluid will have a tendency to crack easier. The reason is that cast iron that goes through heat cycles in the air will have a faster temperature swing and be less stable than a part that is submerged in liquid which rises and cools slower. Heat cycles will always increase the risk of it cracking again
Good job, but by checking the spark colour, will determine the "mix" in the metal....looks like that pan is more of a cast steel than iron, notice the yellow sparks...a pure cast iron would have an orange/red spark.
I would say that it would be about 1/3 stronger. Cast iron will always be weaker after it's repaired and will usually break in the heat effected zone, not at the weld.
I got to weld a part for my tractor that's cast iron and only have a stick welder. I have 6010, 6011 and 7018 electrodes which will be a better choice. I also dont have an oxy torch so adding one to my Christmas list. The part controls how deep the implements go so not sure of the name or stress on part.
Hi did you try heating up the pan like what would happen when cooking then try the weight strength test ,would this have a effect on its breaking weight test
Good to know 6013 can do decent welds considering all the hate they get. I often use 6013 myself since it usually starts easier, 7018 is ok too. Should cut that cast iron pan in half and weld it back together and run it over or something.
Interesting series, the problem with welding anything cast is actually the grain structure not material, for me its either brazing or tig with ML60 or MY60 rod (think thats name its a specialist rod and cost like $40 each that my engineer friend gets) Although you want something trick check out cold welding cast :)
I have never run 7016. The characteristics are similar to a 7018 (both are low hydrogen) and I've had good luck with 7018 so it might be worth a try. Anything with a high nickel content is also a very safe alternative.
Many have had good luck using stainless but that has not been my experience. I actually tested this in my cast iron welding playlist and compared the breaking strength to other filler metals
Hello. Can you do a test using stainless steel rod. I have used it before and it held great. I just didn't test it for strength. That would be a good video for your subscribers. Thank you so much and don't listen to the nay sayers. You know what you're doing. Thank you.
May I ask a couple of questions please? I have one of those cheap cast iron anvils that I have hard faced, more for the experience than any other reason. However, although I know I have increased its overall yield strength, as you have here, I’m presuming the tensile and compression strength of the cast iron has remained the same? So, as I use it with hot metals and the hard facing expands earlier and easier than the cast iron will this in turn cause the anvil to crack? Also as the metal in the hard facing rods has greater impact strength will the cast iron anvil crumble beneath it? These questions are more academic than anything as it’s just a surface to tap hot things on than anything else as I can only do small projects.
All great questions mark. Anytime you add a dissimilar metal to cast iron it will be susceptible to cracking. The reason for this is the high carbon content in cast causes it to be hard and shock resistant which is why it’s good for cookware. It doesn’t fare well when you add a dissimilar metal because of the difference in expansion ad contraction which is why nickel which is a relatively soft metal is selected for repairs. If the part isn’t undergoing repeated heating and cooling cycles and it didn’t crack during the repair it will likely outlive us both. Using it with hot metals I feel wouldn’t be enough heat to effect it. Even on exhaust manifolds it can take years for a crack to redevelop
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hey brandon, you may test welding the cast iron pan with nickle based filler? eg 2.4806 or similar
also 1.4337 aka 312 would be interesting on cast iron...
If you can find some cast iron filler and flux (atorch or TIG, or even a crude homemade fluxed electrode)
I'd be interested to see how well like on like cast filler might do, considering welding is basically just micro casting.
Keeping in mind there are several types of cast iron:
basic gray lowest melting point,
white (aka "chilled", same ingredients as gray but they put chilling plates in the mold to make an extra-hard wear-resistant surface),
nodular/ductile (has alloying elements to change the grain shape from flake to spherical),
and malleable (An expensive special heat treatment of white, largely replaced by easier/faster to cast "nodular" back around WW2)
Would never have believed it was possible to weld cast iron with 6013, the times this could have been useful for me are many. Thanks for that.
Glad I could help
What a good job, it's a shame people comments on how your doing this, your doing the job and not them. Top job
Thanks Colin. I don't pay attention to the negative comments. My experience surpasses their opinions
I'm a well retired electrical engineer who is always creating things ( lightweight welding stuff, old car patches etc ) and your welding tech is great. I learn so much from your video's. Thanks a lot, Colin UK 🇬🇧.
Thank you Colin I appreciate it!
I'm more impressed with the strength of that bucket!
Just got myself a andeli mig 160 welder never welded anything before been watching your TH-cam videos and found them very helpful keep up the good work.
Thanks David I appreciate your support and congratulations!
I never knew you could weld cast iron with standard rods, or wire. I always thought it was braising, or nothing. And the heat is the most important. Thank you.
Glad to help Michael. Heat really is the key. MIG Silicon Bronze is by far the best method I've tested. I have a video on that also. th-cam.com/video/Cm3_uv-PhPM/w-d-xo.html
Great job, screw the haters. This impressed me
Thanks Prestia2011. I appreciate your support!
Grate job
Thanks!
No one can do wrong with E6013! It's Gods divine rod! A gift for welders worldwide! Best wishes and regards sir!
Thanks John! Best wishes to you sir!
I hate 6013 ,I really can't weld with them
I use 7018 or stainless rods or even 6010
@@daniele3275 next time you get some 6013, try a real steep drag angle. I think you will see a big difference.
@@daniele3275 you have to use a steep drag angle and turn up the arc force enough to push the slag back.
@@massa-blasta arc force? My welder have not it
Just a simple inverter ,no antistick,no arc force,no hot start ...
7018 works well I can make good looking and strong welds with them
6013 are backward to use for me
That’s a lot stronger than I thought it would be, thanks for the informative video sir. I can’t afford brazing gear or being triggered so I find this very helpful.
Thanks man!
Now that surprised me! Glad you gave it a bash. My grate should hold up fine. Cracking job.
Thanks James! I was not expecting those results. I'll be honest, I didnt expect it to work in the first place. The results proved me wrong! Thanks buddy and good luck on your repair
@@BrandonLund thanks, you to. I'm making a firepit/burner out of a propane tank next. Second one I've done. Whole new design. I'll keep watching so I can pinch your ideas & tips.
Well it will certainly hold your bacon and eggs, But I still will use cast 80 or 90 rods for cast iron even thought 6013 and 7018 will work
and will weld both sides if I can. Brandon, again a good video and you showed us that 6013 is a very good all purpose rod, always keep some on hand.
Thanks Bruce D I appreciate your comment and support! Cheers buddy!
Interesting result! I remember when they sent off our welds to a lab in college, for gas welding of cracked sawmill saws. That's what I worked on and was, a Sawfiler. And their's would pound on it simulating the rolling on huge tensioned wheels would do to them in a sawmill thousands of times until they would crack again. This is so much simpler and I think it's a totally legit, scientific test. Unlike my more complex example, your pan only does two things cooks and carries. And all we're interested in is the carry part. I doubt anyone will be carting around anywhere near 100lbs in that little pan, lol,=great repair! Hugely successful in fact and obviously, there is zero need to weld the other side, that's cool. I would just for aesthetics and just fill gaps and finish it up flat and clean, so I could get a nice seasoning on the pan afterwards.
Our welds were forged while hot and on thin metal, maybe 3mm thick, so they would never need welding from both sides and if anything, it would weaken the weld once finished on the first side. Everything gets smooshed together anyway, by pounding it immediately afterward and then reheated over the whole crack, to red hot and forged again. If you peened it as quickly as possible while the weld is still hot/soft, you could do similar and likely did, to some small extent and pushed some metal into the crack, strengthening it. Weld with one hand, have hammer in other, while still hot?
Thats pretty awesome! I love hearing stories like this. I've heard of forging cast but never done it but I have always been interested in the process though! @Bill Does Stuff
Simple,effective instruction...What the others lack. Spot on Dude..
Thanks man i appreciate it!
Fantastic. I now have the confidence to fix cast iron pieces of equipment. Great job.
Thanks Jack! Glad I could help!
Im currently doing weld repair for someone and im glad im using a nickel chromium filler to tig weld it. I had no idea muggy nickel weld filler was the strongest in the list. My colleague at work told me i should use a nickel chromium because its very strong for cast iron. Glad i made the right decision.
Another good filler is silicon bronze. It's almost as strong as the original cast and welds like butter.
Viewer madcap magician correctly guessed the weight after watching some of the other episodes. If you havent seen the cast iron welding series, be sure to check out the link in the description.
Thankyou for your video's. Now i know why my electrode is 6013 and @ 150amp 55 Arc 60 Heat start even more unstable welding. Im new and beginner and thankyou for your tips! In our country mostly uses 6013 I'm from Philippines thankyousomuch! Much videos of yours to watch 🙂🙂
Thanks for watching!
Man you’re fun to watch and a good welder. Good job
Thanks buddy! I appreciate your support!
yeah
and he even make it look easy to do,,,
now i have an idea how to weld cast...
thanks bro
Thanks man! I appreciate your kind words!
videos that include a test of the results are the best. thanks for posting
@oldsteamguy Thank you!
Wow, plastic tub was stronger than the weld!
Great experiment!
Thanks man! 👍
Good job! I enjoy these types of videos. Answers curiosity questions! Thanks!
Thanks Jace! I'm glad you enjoy these videos too...I enjoy them also. The results often surprise me!
Hi Brandon, with that weight you could brake a new pan!! Great work.
Blessings.
Thanks and God Bless!
The best way ive found is pretty much the way you did it. Just let the piece cool completely between welds.
I welded an exhaust manifold once with success that way
Cast iron repair is time consuming but if you take your time as you found out, usually the results are pretty good @michael wells
Excellent. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
My pleasure!
😮 I was impressed that it was holding up the chain with a little bit of sand. I do have a question I have a cast iron pot belly stove can not find them anymore it has cracks in the side what is a good welding rod and implements for a Lodge cast iron pot belly stove repair
If it's in the heat firebox area I would suggest a nickel rod and if it's a leg or something that doesn't get above 600 degrees I would use silicon bronze mig wire
@@BrandonLund thank you for your response thank you thank you. I will definitely experiment with that. Seeing it's so difficult to find a non EPA wood cook stove I was going to build one using hot-rolled quarter inch steel plate. Or would you recommend something else? I kind of have to go on the cheap. As well as basically learning how to do it as I go.
@keillorchristoph sometimes building on the fly gives the best results, modifying as you go. I'm not an expert on stoves but I would think 1/4" would be adequate.
Brandon, it’s awesome that the weld is strong but when i think of cast iron in my local i think of wood stoves and of course the cast iron cookware……so, when you apply heat to the cast iron while cooking it on the wood stove or fire…….doesnt it affect how strong the weld is after you weld it? I have a 100 year old wood stove that i broke the foot pedal to the oven door. I asked around several people who specifically work on these stoves and he told me it is very difficult to weld it since the constant heating and cooling of the medal….
It will. It's one of the reasons I refuse to repair cast iron pans for people. Woodstoves don't worry me due to the high heat...much higher than a cast iron pan
Thank you, good information to learn!
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video.
Now, what about the brazing? If that's the 'correct' method, how much does it hold?
It's within 10% of original breaking strength according to my tests
Once upon a yesteryear, I welded some cracks in Chevy engine block with 6013 rod.
I tried welding it cold with wasn’t working ( of course ) so we got out a torch and heated the area around the crack then it welded much nicer than I expected as that was the only rod I had , no nickel rod.
The main thing with REAL cast iron is the pre- heating. To really properly weld real cast iron is ( if possible ) heat the whole thing in oven then take out and weld and then put back in oven and cool very slowly. BUT who can do that? 99% of the time you’re limited with just heating with a torch and trying not to cool too fast.
Many moons later I welded up a water pump for a well with nickel stick rod and it held
AIR as well as water pressure. So yes , it is possible to get solid sealing welds with stick rod. ( it was a jigsaw puzzle not just a crack )
Sometimes the best way to learn is to just try! Farmers especially know this and have been doing what others consider impossible for many years.
Exactly what i wanted to see, thank you
Thanks for the video. Sometimes you don't need a strong weld and this sure looks easy, especially if welding outside in non ideal conditions.
Exactly! Thank you 😁
Cool . How much weight would new pan take before snaps 😢
I have that answer too :) Check out my cast iron repair playlist. You will fund it there
Hi There.
Thank you for this tutorial you really helped me out. I am restoring some cast Iron gates from 1814 that I have had to basically rebuild. I had never welded cast iron before and was failing miserably until I watched this. The key is not to put to much heat into It other wise the whole thing falls apart.
Thank you from across the pond.
Eddie.
Abbeydale Machine and Tool Co. Ltd Birmingham United Kingdom
You are welcome!
@@BrandonLund what type of rods are u useing are they special cast iron rods or normal
Just normal rods
Very good and easy to understand demo of cast iron repair. I look forward to one more such experiment using E 7016 iron powder type electrode. This is widely used in India for non machinable cast iron repair and maintenance welding. Thanks for wonderful video.
@maritimefreak I'm going to have to give that a try! Thank you for the suggestion! 🙏
Thank you sir for shearing knalage of stick welding for cast iron using 6013 welding rod...
You bet!
You can calculate the load on the handle by measuring from the vertical axis of the load to the fracture. It was MUCH more than the 100lb load weight!
He's also not adding the weight of that probably 50lbs chain.
@@flyback_driver Huh? The chain was included in the measurement. It was in the tote along with everything else.
Shhhhh your going to spoil it for him and take away his fun. People love to find fault and things to complain about. I'm guessing he skipped through the video or he would have seen what we all saw lol.
That’s genius, great instructions, THANK YOU DUDE. stay stay and well.x
Thanks Gail! Same to you! :)
Great video! I will try this on my next repair
Good luck!
soooooooo, I gotta go buy a welder next time my cast iron skillet breaks? Just kidding! Great video! just goes to prove that when someone says it can’t be done, someone who thinks outside the box shows that it can indeed be done. Well done sir!
Thanks man! I appreciate your support!
J W Dickinson you could actually fix it on the cheap using a MAPP gas torch to do the preheat and brazing. But the torch and rod would still cost more than a new Lodge pan.
Matthew Hall very true...however, Brandon just used the pan as a test piece to prove the process. This obviously carries over to other cast iron parts, like vintage car exhaust manifolds that can no longer be found or cast parts that would far out cost the repair supplies or service.
Nice information about cast iron 👌👏
Anytime! Thanks for your support and comment!
Great I've never thought of welding cast iron with 6013 I guess in a pinch it can be done I've used 7018 or regular cast iron rods that holds pretty good everyday you can learn something new
Thanks man! You don't know until you try :)
You earnt yourself a subscriber.
Thanks man! I appreciate it!
btw did you make any video with brazing?
I did a couple videos on mig brazing with silicon bronze
@@BrandonLund
found it, thank you
Hi Brandon, I thought you did a very good job of presenting a fair test of the 6013 rods, which is one of the most common rods available in Australia. I think that you might have something of an advantage given that you are trying to repair a modern item where the casting mix has been more tightly controlled. But that is what you want in conducting an experiment, to control the number of variables in each round of the experiment. I work at a private school in Melbourne Australia as a Carpenter who also does welding repairs. Given the school is over 160 years old there are cast iron components in all sorts of places. A lot of it is a very dirty shitty cast that has been in the elements for the better part of a century or more. Some stuff you just can't save and if it's failure is likely to injure someone then it gets replaced with an in sympathy substitute. So as you can see, I have a interesting relationship with cast iron.
Thank you! I agree the cast iron of today is probably more controlled. We will be doing a lot more of these types of videos coming up real soon. Thanks for watching and commenting!
thanks Brandon, lots of great info
Thanks! @555propow
Very good video & very impressive "strength test" demonstration. First of all, I'm not a professional welder, but I've had the opportunity to oxy-acy braze & weld, arc weld, solid Mig & flux core, and Silver solder (HVAC). Our mail box is on a cast iron water pump and a snow plow clipped it in January, busted in several pieces laying in the snow. I waited until the snow melted some & collected the parts & decided I would attempt to glue this mess back together. With a trailer full of generator, Lincoln 210MP, handful of cast iron rods, grinder, and a bucket full of hope, I got started on the repair. The rod was 1/8" but that's what I had (1/16" or 3/32" would have been better for this job), and I got these at a big box store (total of 6 sticks). After grinding, tacked and pre-heating (Propane hand torch), I used 1/2" welds at opposite sides, peened, moved again, repeated until the first part was welded back on the bottom pipe. Moved upwards & used the rods until they were gone, then switched to the flux-core (0.030 dia) because I wasn't done yet. Long story short, I was able to finish back to a reasonable facsimile of what the pump looked like before the snowplow plowed it and the mail box. Nothing I did would pass muster from a professional welder, but my new mail box is affixed to the pump and hasn't fallen over yet. My favorite for repairing cast iron has always been using flux covered Brass rods, but it would have been a little more difficult for me to move my oxy-acy setup. I wanted to try the stick option on the new 210MP, and it worked very well. The flux core Mig worked ok, not nearly as aesthetically pleasing, but the job is done & I can live with it. Your videos are well done and provide insight to me as to what I can do with what I've got to work with. Thank you for your efforts, I certainly enjoy learning from them.
What a great comment and thank you for sharing. As you pointed out, these videos are to give some insight on what to expect when using a specific process. Sometimes it might not be the prettiest but if it's all we have than at least we know what to expect rather than toss it in the trash.
@@BrandonLund Thank you for your reply. My Dad owned auto salvage yards, transmission shops, painting & auto body shop, and I started assisting him (at 15 years of age) while he was the body man at the Oxnard, CA Earl Schieb Paint shop. Production, not so much quality, was the highest driver at Schieb's, so I mixed Bondo and primered for Pop and learned to spray paint motorcycles & cars. Other business ventures brought more experience for me, so I've been very fortunate to be exposed to different learning opportunities. My Dad stuck me in front of an old Hobart, almost taller than I was at 9 years of age (1960), and gave me a tin of 6011 sticks; he found it was cheaper to do this then let me run loose in the salvage yard. So I'm not without some knowledge of welding things together, I'm not in the league as you are. Keep up the great videos and sharing your insights of welding. Take care, from an old HVAC guy.
first time viewer & very impressed with your work at the same time fun to watch. Thanks for sharing and I am a new sub!
Thanks buddy! I appreciate the sub and your support! I've been working on rebuild projects lately but starting this friday we are back in full swing with welding and fabrication videos.
Great video brandon
Thanks brother!
Fair play didn't expect that 👍
Thanks man! Thanks for your support and comment!
Nice demo… I’m always skipical on cast iron welding… I have cast iron stove around 1900 corners broke off… wanted fix it and display the stove. 🤷🏼♂️
Thanks man! Give it a go. Try silicon bronze. You will love it
Thanks for this video, I’m preparing myself for a huge cast iron bowl repair that measures 6 feet wide and it is currently in two equal pieces lol
I’m probably gonna use ceramic blankets and a number 10 rosebud tip for preheating
Thats massive. Yes a preheat and insulated cool down are essential. Good luck with your repair.
Brandon Lund thanks man! Subscribed 👍🏼
@@Weldingprobably thanks for the sub man! If you have FB feel free to share a pic..everyone loves project pics.
Brandon Lund I would but I don’t use Facebook anymore.....maybe I can put a video together 👍🏼
Brandon Lund well they got upset at me over the cost! So we are probably not going through with the repair lol
What about if u weld both sides with stick
I have a video for that 👍
That's a pretty cool video. Very interesting.
Thanks!
Nice bluearc welder Brandon bro
Thanks man! Yah this is by far my favorite stick welder. VERY smooth arc
Awesome presentation.
Thank you Pascual!
I used 316L filler to fill the gaps and tack and then reheat the part and use cast nickel filler rod all in the TIG welding process, pin holes were easier to fill, heat part again after welding with peening, then let heat soak for several hours. I believe it is important to reheat the affected heat zones to help the metal reduce stresses.
My part was a cast iron gas manifold venturi 1-1/2" NPT connection fractured from misalignment/stress failure.
Base metal was about 1/4" thick, maybe more.
@mongomay1 Interesting! I have tried 316L and didn't have good luck but I also didn't use it like you mentioned. I'm going to have to give that a try! Thank you!
@@BrandonLund It seems the 316L helps float the junk up. grind it clean, then hit it with the nickel, clean out the intrusion/floaters and weld some more it is a PITA, but the idea is to rescue the part and keep the plant running. Have to have a specific goal and then work something until you get it fixed. The part I mentioned was 2 weeks out for a natural gas venturi to an industrial oven and we could not have any leaks.
A small needle scaler can work for peening.
Thats awesome man but I agree it sounds like a lot of work but a solid repair!
Try 309l, it's a higher nickle content.. I've had good luck with 309 using tig on exhaust manifolds with a good preheat and good post heat, no nickle rods or brazing and no leaks
Enjoyed the video. I have an antique scale where a roughly 1" round cast iron bar was broken in the middle and so the two parts need to be joined that are weight bearing. I wanted to see if you had any suggestions.
Best thing for beveling joints without contamination is a simple carbide burr. Use it in an air die grinder if your compressor tank is big enough, or get an electric die grinder for $100-ish and not have to worry about air.
Also, an air hammer with a blunted tip works great for peening, and peens much more evenly than you can by hand.
Great points buddy! Thank you for sharing :)
The 6013 running via a homemade welder via MOTs can penetrate rust and do just about anything "professional" electrodes can do.
Yes, anneal cast iron in lime after welding for best results.
Spot on!
Best AC stick experience ever. Will never buy a buzz box which I borrowed or cheap inverter ever.
Great video and quite surprising! Would love to see you braze that pan with some straight copper res. housing wire using brazing flux if needed. Brandon L - you're the best!
Thanks bill! That's an interesting filler metal. It has me curious....hmmmm?
I was tig welding some steel one time and couldn't figure why it was taking so much heat to melt the rod. Turns out it was a piece of copper wire I had mistaken for tig rod. It's fused with the steel though. I'm curious what the breaking point of brazed joint would be what rod composition works best.
Tnx 4 the vedio i learn a lot.keep up the good work.God bls.have a nice day sir.😉😉😉😉
Thank you and god bless to you!
So how much strength is lost? How much weight would break a new cast iron pan?
Unfortunately this "project" turned into a series so we dont have actual numbers but if I had to guess I would say you loose about 1/3 the strength when repairing. Mainly because the piece work hardens in the heat effected zone. It becomes less flexible.
Thank You for your great information.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the SUB! I consider that an honor. Thank you! 🙏
Is the pan useable for food preparation after being welded?
The safe answer is no. The only reason I say this is because cast iron can crack again after numerous heat cycles. It could be years or it may never happen but because its possible I would not recommend doing it. God forbid if hot grease leaked out from a crack or the handle broke and spilled hot oil. It could be fatal. As far as food contacting the weld metal. I wouldn't be concerned unless it was repaired with nickel. Nickel is a carcinogen.
Moral of the story, don't underestimate the E6013.
Moreover, it's the welder not the material. Most countries don't have access to electrodes beyond the E6013.
Overall, you're a great welder.
What a great compliment! 👍 thank you very much! 🙏
Great informative vid, ✌
@Sofa King thanks man! 😊
Wow perfect welding strong enough
Thank you!
what kind of rod will you used for a
Good attempt... Thank you... Informative
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it! I appreciate your support!
Stainless steel stick?
Can you do it?
Great suggestion Daniele, I believe it should work, but just how much it will hold compared to the others? We will soon find out! Plan to see this in an upcoming episode. Thanks again for the suggestion!
@@BrandonLund on the charts seems that may work better than 7018 because of nickel chrome and other metals content in the stainless steel rods
You can try using 304 306 308 309 312 316 rods so 6 attempt to do
How can the plastic bucket handles hold that much weight?
I wondered why in many countries around the world they weld almost every kind of steel and cast iron with 6013.
Try to weld in AC current.
BTW how to weld cast zinc, i need something cheaper than the muggywelds product.
Thanks.
I will see what I can put together. I’m not aware with any other cast zinc repair products.
@@BrandonLund
Thanks.
Great job. My Idol 👍👍
Thanks Rico! I appreciate your support!
what kind of rod will you used to weld a ploughing disk for a tracktor
Welding cast iron. Is something that is a tricky repair. Low Heat and Peening seems to work well.
I would like to see how cast iron repair will hold up when the metal gets hot and cold cycles repeated constantly as in an engine block, like a section of 3"x 4" piece is missing from the side of an engine and replaced the a piece of steel, will it leak oil ? Great Video, thanks for the info. William from Orange County California
Hey William cast iron that is heat cycled in air versus heat cycled in fluid will have a tendency to crack easier. The reason is that cast iron that goes through heat cycles in the air will have a faster temperature swing and be less stable than a part that is submerged in liquid which rises and cools slower. Heat cycles will always increase the risk of it cracking again
WooooW!
I'm more surprised at the strength of the plastic container. XD
The true hero here is Rubbermaid!
@@BrandonLund
rubbermaid for the win hehe
I use my 160amp welder... same set up... 1 knob to turn, and a switch for stick or tig... Vrd switch on bk, and a 240/120 switch....
I doubt you'll ever find bacon and eggs that weight that much; maybe my ex-wife's cornbread.
Hahaha thanks man!
Another trigger here, I welded cast with a 6013 using oxy acetylene.
And it worked fine.
Thats awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Interesting! Did you knock the flux off the rod and use it as bare filler wire?
@@hgj2019 I did yes, but I used sif cast iron flux,
Preheat and insulated cooling.
The cast was about 4mm thick
@@PeakyBlinder thanks! I'll give it a try.
@@hgj2019 it held for me,
Good job, but by checking the spark colour, will determine the "mix" in the metal....looks like that pan is more of a cast steel than iron, notice the yellow sparks...a pure cast iron would have an orange/red spark.
Thanks for the info
Seems all the repairs were successful, great video! Which method produced the prettiest repair?
Thanks John. I like nickel for repairs. Welds like butter.
How much weight would the unbroken pan bear? I suspect that cast iron repair is inherently weaker than the cast in its original form.
I would say that it would be about 1/3 stronger. Cast iron will always be weaker after it's repaired and will usually break in the heat effected zone, not at the weld.
I got to weld a part for my tractor that's cast iron and only have a stick welder. I have 6010, 6011 and 7018 electrodes which will be a better choice. I also dont have an oxy torch so adding one to my Christmas list. The part controls how deep the implements go so not sure of the name or stress on part.
@Jorge Serna of those choices a 7018 would work best. Better yet you can get small packs of nickle 99 at Tractor supply that would be your best bet
Hi did you try heating up the pan like what would happen when cooking then try the weight strength test ,would this have a effect on its breaking weight test
I have done a bunch of exhaust manifolds with no issues. Eventually it may or may not fail. Cast iron can be unpredicatable.
Good to know 6013 can do decent welds considering all the hate they get. I often use 6013 myself since it usually starts easier, 7018 is ok too. Should cut that cast iron pan in half and weld it back together and run it over or something.
Great suggestion! I like it! Thank you
Interesting series, the problem with welding anything cast is actually the grain structure not material, for me its either brazing or tig with ML60 or MY60 rod (think thats name its a specialist rod and cost like $40 each that my engineer friend gets)
Although you want something trick check out cold welding cast :)
Have you tried lobo 777 rod on cast for stick welding cast
I haven't but thank you for the suggestion. I'm going to have to give it a try!
Good job Sir 👍
Thanks! 😁 @Roland Repair Vlog
Can you braze one ? After test. Bacon and basted eggs with pancakes.?
I can give it a try! It sure sounds good!
Looks good Is it battery powered, if so what kind. Thank you very much
If i remember correctly its a 2032 but its solar powered also. The lens has 4 sensors vs. 2 so you never get arc flashed.
Great video! very indepth! and informative! That is so helpful! Thank you's
Thanks Jerrod and thanks for watching!
Waal great work quite impressing
Thanks!
I only have 7016 rods. Heed to weld a heavy casting, Will they do ?
I have never run 7016. The characteristics are similar to a 7018 (both are low hydrogen) and I've had good luck with 7018 so it might be worth a try. Anything with a high nickel content is also a very safe alternative.
@@BrandonLund Thanks for that. I have some high nickle rods if I need them, but if the 7016 does the job I have plenty of those.
Wow! Thanks I've learn much.
Your welcome! 👍
Hi. I used stainless rods to weld cast iron on a small job once. it seems to work but how strong is it
Many have had good luck using stainless but that has not been my experience. I actually tested this in my cast iron welding playlist and compared the breaking strength to other filler metals
Hello. Can you do a test using stainless steel rod. I have used it before and it held great. I just didn't test it for strength. That would be a good video for your subscribers. Thank you so much and don't listen to the nay sayers. You know what you're doing. Thank you.
Thanks Javier. You can plan on it in an upcoming episode. Thanks for the suggestion!
Love the videos.
Thank you very much! There will many more
May I ask a couple of questions please? I have one of those cheap cast iron anvils that I have hard faced, more for the experience than any other reason. However, although I know I have increased its overall yield strength, as you have here, I’m presuming the tensile and compression strength of the cast iron has remained the same? So, as I use it with hot metals and the hard facing expands earlier and easier than the cast iron will this in turn cause the anvil to crack? Also as the metal in the hard facing rods has greater impact strength will the cast iron anvil crumble beneath it? These questions are more academic than anything as it’s just a surface to tap hot things on than anything else as I can only do small projects.
All great questions mark. Anytime you add a dissimilar metal to cast iron it will be susceptible to cracking. The reason for this is the high carbon content in cast causes it to be hard and shock resistant which is why it’s good for cookware. It doesn’t fare well when you add a dissimilar metal because of the difference in expansion ad contraction which is why nickel which is a relatively soft metal is selected for repairs. If the part isn’t undergoing repeated heating and cooling cycles and it didn’t crack during the repair it will likely outlive us both. Using it with hot metals I feel wouldn’t be enough heat to effect it. Even on exhaust manifolds it can take years for a crack to redevelop
@@BrandonLund Thank you very much for such a complete and comprehensive answer.
Anytime buddy!
Good info, cool video!
Thanks!