Hey Matthieu, great video as usual. Ive learned alot regarding prepregs and infusions from you, so here are some tips from me for skinning. Ive been skinning since 2020. 1) Use a 2K Upholstery Glue to stick down the carbon. Solvent Based Glues adhere far better to plastics and can expand with heat if necessary. Epoxy doesnt stick to abs and the likes since there are no solvents. Give it one heat cycle at 80°C (easily reached in a car interior) and it will come loose due to the CTE Delta you mentioned. Thus no more delam. Exception are for ex PP/PE, here youll need to use a adhesion promoter since PP/PE have low surface energy and are hard to bond. Also easier to work with, since there are heat activated glues that allow you to place the weave as you wish with a slight tack (but still being able to remove it), only after heat treatment the part will be fully bonded. Especially good on multi ply pieces. Also much better if you use a black epoxy as base (on aluminium for ex) because that way if you press on the carbon while laying it up, the resin might print through the carbon leaving a visible black spot. On Aluminium i use a 1k Etch Primer and the 2k Glue over it, the Glue melts up with the 1k etch primer and makes a really nice bond. I also tried with only glue on aluminium (works as well) and with 2k Epoxy (sprayed, didnt bond as well since the glue doesnt bond good to epoxy since its not solveable, same like with epoxy on plastics) 2) To trim the excess material, leave it to cure and then use a heat gun to heat up the flanges and trim it off with a stanley/cutter knife. This works perfect since through heat youre softening the not yet heat treated resin and makes it easy to cut and get perfect straight lines. This can be done even at a later stage when more layers of epoxy are down. You could cut up to 1mm thick resin (if not heat treated) Just my experience from 3 years of skinning, been doing a lot of parts and running through probably more than a ton of epoxy :D
@@Reddevilowns Any thermoactivated 2k upholstery glue will do. Just make sure its heat resistant enough! The glue sticks well to the weave, apply on both sides (weave and the part) and stick it. After letting it cure (make sure all solvents are out, leave it for at least 24h) you can start filling with resin. Where are you located?
Ill send you my air box off my 2022 BMW M1000RR Competition to make a video on🤗 I absolutely love the part you made and its perfect for a functional piece that's not always seen! A+ my friend!
This is awesome . I'm thinking of reproducing / improving a factory (Miata) car airbox but using Carbon Fibre Sheet as a base or make the moulds with 3D printing... Have you got a tutorial like that.. I can model parts in 3D CAD I'm just not so knowledgeable with Composite process
Nice work. The part looked gloss after the last spray but then matt when you showed the piece in the frame. Was it matt? How did you acheive that finish?
Have you tried gluing fiberglass scrim to the back of the carbon prior to skinning? I have not, but it seems like it would keep stray fibers under control.
Could you make a video focusing more on painting carbon fibre parts? How to prepare carbon for painting, what type of paint and clear coat should you use, how to make tinted clear coat (like Pagani), matte finish,… Everything. Tips and tricks. 😉
Hi, off topic but since you work with carbon fiber please advise! I have an exhaust end cap made with 2x2 twill carbon fiber. It is attached by small removable bolts and the fitment on the metal exhaust. I want to remove the end cap without damaging it. There are no adhesives only the tight fitment, how would you knock off the end cap? Please suggest a way to loosen or lubricate/penetrate between the carbon fiber cap and titanium exhaust. TIA!
Did you try to apply peelply after 2nd resin layer let it cure and take peelply off and then sand ??? I get flatter and even layer to sand and you wont close small air bubbles
EC-cutter. Works wonders with any fabric, carbon/glass included. Dry fabrics only though, not recommended for prepreg or other resin inpregnated materials. Surprisingly durable, would highly recommend.
Hi, great vid. I didn't understand a few things. Why are you using prepreg instead of regular CF? Did you not use the oven at all? What do you do to make a part look glossy or matte? How can you make it matte? Sand it less?
@@MatthieuLibeert After Carbon and 1. Layer, what sandpapir ? and after 2 more layers, what sandpapir ? Last 2, what sandpapir? I did light 120 after 1, then after next 2 layers 180 and 240, but must have sanded to much, hit the Carbon so its a do-over 🤯
в чем смысл этого онанизма? я могу понять использование CF для облегчение веса + красота, у меня у самого была злючка CBR600 вся из карбона,но вот это вот все только ради appearance? нунах
![How to Simply Change your Car Parts to Real Carbon Fiber (Carbon fiber Skinning) [DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zKGwHYBcs-U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Matthieu,
great video as usual. Ive learned alot regarding prepregs and infusions from you, so here are some tips from me for skinning. Ive been skinning since 2020.
1) Use a 2K Upholstery Glue to stick down the carbon. Solvent Based Glues adhere far better to plastics and can expand with heat if necessary. Epoxy doesnt stick to abs and the likes since there are no solvents. Give it one heat cycle at 80°C (easily reached in a car interior) and it will come loose due to the CTE Delta you mentioned. Thus no more delam. Exception are for ex PP/PE, here youll need to use a adhesion promoter since PP/PE have low surface energy and are hard to bond.
Also easier to work with, since there are heat activated glues that allow you to place the weave as you wish with a slight tack (but still being able to remove it), only after heat treatment the part will be fully bonded. Especially good on multi ply pieces.
Also much better if you use a black epoxy as base (on aluminium for ex) because that way if you press on the carbon while laying it up, the resin might print through the carbon leaving a visible black spot. On Aluminium i use a 1k Etch Primer and the 2k Glue over it, the Glue melts up with the 1k etch primer and makes a really nice bond. I also tried with only glue on aluminium (works as well) and with 2k Epoxy (sprayed, didnt bond as well since the glue doesnt bond good to epoxy since its not solveable, same like with epoxy on plastics)
2) To trim the excess material, leave it to cure and then use a heat gun to heat up the flanges and trim it off with a stanley/cutter knife. This works perfect since through heat youre softening the not yet heat treated resin and makes it easy to cut and get perfect straight lines. This can be done even at a later stage when more layers of epoxy are down. You could cut up to 1mm thick resin (if not heat treated)
Just my experience from 3 years of skinning, been doing a lot of parts and running through probably more than a ton of epoxy :D
Thanks a bunch for letting us know these tricks.
Thanks very much. 🤙
Excellent info! Do you mind sharing what 2K glue you use?
Thank you
@@Reddevilowns Any thermoactivated 2k upholstery glue will do. Just make sure its heat resistant enough! The glue sticks well to the weave, apply on both sides (weave and the part) and stick it. After letting it cure (make sure all solvents are out, leave it for at least 24h) you can start filling with resin.
Where are you located?
@@carbonfabrik I am located in Massachusetts in the USA. Any particular brand you recommend? Having a hard time finding any 2K thermoactivated glue
The beauty of the carbon fibre comes out better with a gloss finish IMHO.
Ill send you my air box off my 2022 BMW M1000RR Competition to make a video on🤗 I absolutely love the part you made and its perfect for a functional piece that's not always seen! A+ my friend!
Hey Matthieu, Great videos. Why do they say Carbon fibre is brittle especially when using for applications like motorcycle swingarm?
This is awesome . I'm thinking of reproducing / improving a factory (Miata) car airbox but using Carbon Fibre Sheet as a base or make the moulds with 3D printing... Have you got a tutorial like that.. I can model parts in 3D CAD I'm just not so knowledgeable with Composite process
How many layers of cloth would I need to add over and around 3d printed aerobars on a TT bike to make them structurally sound?
Nice work. The part looked gloss after the last spray but then matt when you showed the piece in the frame. Was it matt? How did you acheive that finish?
Thank you for sharing your experience. Can you tell me what is the clear coat do you use please? Thank you
Have you tried gluing fiberglass scrim to the back of the carbon prior to skinning? I have not, but it seems like it would keep stray fibers under control.
Great tutorial, thank you for sharing! Newbie here, what do you use for a flat finish? Thanks!
look for a dull clear coat for more matte color
It's been almost a year since your last video. I sincerely hope all is well with you, Matthieu.
Could you make a video focusing more on painting carbon fibre parts?
How to prepare carbon for painting, what type of paint and clear coat should you use, how to make tinted clear coat (like Pagani), matte finish,…
Everything. Tips and tricks. 😉
Hi, off topic but since you work with carbon fiber please advise! I have an exhaust end cap made with 2x2 twill carbon fiber. It is attached by small removable bolts and the fitment on the metal exhaust. I want to remove the end cap without damaging it. There are no adhesives only the tight fitment, how would you knock off the end cap? Please suggest a way to loosen or lubricate/penetrate between the carbon fiber cap and titanium exhaust. TIA!
Did you try to apply peelply after 2nd resin layer let it cure and take peelply off and then sand ??? I get flatter and even layer to sand and you wont close small air bubbles
What is the electric shears that you use to trim the excess cloth? Seems to be not too messy
Appreciate the video
EC-cutter. Works wonders with any fabric, carbon/glass included. Dry fabrics only though, not recommended for prepreg or other resin inpregnated materials. Surprisingly durable, would highly recommend.
@@richardf1b Thanks
Привет.можешь посоветовать современный учебный материал по композитным материалам?
Hi, great vid. I didn't understand a few things.
Why are you using prepreg instead of regular CF?
Did you not use the oven at all?
What do you do to make a part look glossy or matte? How can you make it matte? Sand it less?
Gloss or Matt finish can be achieved using either gloss or Matt lacquer.
nice work matteiu
Are both air pressure sanders dual action?
Good video, but you never talk about how long each step took you.
Very good video
important.
Please tell me how many hours should we wait for it to dry between layers?
Tell us the sanding grits?
Can you make fuel tank carbon fiber tutorial ?
When you lay the Carbon Down, when do you Apply next lay?
Once the first layer is tacky and you apply the carbon you are ready for a fresh layer of epoxy resin
@@MatthieuLibeert thank you so much. I Will try you 112233 technique for my next skinning parts.
Thanks for a good video 🙏🏻
@@simontange3492 glad I've been of some help! Good luck with your project!
@@MatthieuLibeert After Carbon and 1. Layer, what sandpapir ? and after 2 more layers, what sandpapir ? Last 2, what sandpapir?
I did light 120 after 1, then after next 2 layers 180 and 240, but must have sanded to much, hit the Carbon so its a do-over 🤯
Looks great, thanks for posting this
amazing!
cool!
в чем смысл этого онанизма? я могу понять использование CF для облегчение веса + красота, у меня у самого была злючка CBR600 вся из карбона,но вот это вот все только ради appearance? нунах