I know a mechanic or two, you sir are the real deal! And as somebody else stated here, you will never be out of a job. And also compliments about the filming angles, light and explanations. I could almost do it myself now, almost, sadly i miss your talent!
Looks like you got a really good buy on this bike, and the video is very clear and the camera angles are really nice. Nice editing too. Thanks for posting this!
Great video! You were really unlucky with that head bolt, but not as unlucky as the previous owner - it cost him far more once he'd realised it was beyond his skills. In the future, the world will be full of broken machines, going for scrap weight as there are fewer and fewer people capable of fixing them. Nice to see someone so young getting into it and wining big!😀
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment. There is not much that is more satisfying than starting and riding something that was broken and put to the side.
I remember taking down my '16 DR650 to install a high-comp piston, a Web223 cam, and a TM40 carb. Pretty easy project overall, but it really wasn't worth the money and effort to get just a little more mid-range and top end power. It was good experience though and a fun project. I should have left it alone though, that big 650 single already has massive torque down low and a nice fat mid-range. I ended up selling that bike and buying a new '21 model because I liked the white color scheme. This time I'm left it stock except for the fuel/air screw adjustment.
Hah, I too have a '16 DR650. I was all set to go with an FCR39 Carb and new exhaust, but the BST40 runs just fine with a shim and snorkel removed. Had a bunch of people telling me to drill holes into the air box, but the bike runs just fine. I think I'll leave it.
10:39 So I rebuilt another DR650 motor and thought I was going to have the same issue but what saved me was actually tightening the other bolts back up a bit then removing the stubborn one. My thinking was if one is still totally torqued down and the others are not, the added tension on the one bolt (instead of being spread equally between the 4) would make it even harder to remove. Maybe yours what stuck no matter what, but it's something I will definitely keep in mind from now on just in case that's what happened. Hope all is well
Wow thanks for posting this at the perfect time. I'm taking apart one of these engines and the manual says to remove the castle nut holding the crank bearing on behind the flywheel but I don't want to pay £100 for a tool I would use once so I've been trying to find someone who's done it this way.
Yea my bearings were fine so I didn’t want to buy that tool. I had read about doing it that way and glad it worked out. I am putting it back together now so hopefully that video will be up in a week or two.
Damn that was a good video. At 40k I'm looking at 67psi of compression on my DR even at WOT so I'm looking to do some of this work. I hope I don't have the same trouble! Showing step by step is great for someone like me. Thank you.
Make sure to check your valve clearances. The valve and seat wear over time and can cause clearance to be too tight holding the valve open a little. It will cause a loss of compression. I would definitely do a leak down test before taking it apart. These bikes last a long time when taken care of. Hope you get it fixed up and let me know if you have any questions.
Do a leakdown test, it has an auto decompression so that amount of compression with auto decompression isn't bad. A leak down will answer any questions and tell you if/where you need to target your repair.
Thanks for uploading this. Not planning on doing this but it's good to see the internals and the processes involved in dismantling. Shows the importance of good, clean oil for all those bearings and surfaces too. Bugger about that head bolt but there is always one, lol. You must have been thinking, "This is going smoothly....", Lol.
Yea I was surprised that no one had a good video rebuilding one of these. They are probably on of the most simple motorcycles ever made. Rebuilding it now and hoping there aren’t any more accidents lol.
I’m not sure. I didn’t really get much history on the bike. It seems like I was the first one in the engine. I think it was just seized from all the heat cycles. Whenever I see a head bolt that is long and goes through the cylinder I get a little nervous.
When I get a bolt like that sometimes I'll Weld the top of it just to get the heat to go right through it It gives you way better odds of getting it out.
Before I broke it off? I thought about it but the bolt was so long and I still had hope. I did try once it broke off a bunch more times than shown but it just wouldn’t come free. The machine shop couldn’t get it with a reverse drill bit either.
Sometimes you can unsize it with heat, penetrating oil and hitting the top of the bolt. Steel in aluminium doesnt go well together and vcan seize but copperslip grease between threads in assembly helps it not to seize.
I have a question. The head looked like maybe it had a paper gasket on at one time? I have pulled my head off and put hondabond on and it’s still leaking. Is it possible to use a paper gasket for the head?
I am guessing you are talking about the valve/rocker cover? I don’t think they ever made a gasket for that. I would make sure it’s flat with a straight edge and clean of all old gasket maker. I use a thin layer of yamabond just make sure you let it sit and dry for 24 hours.
The screw just fell through the case onto the table, just didn’t show me grabbing it. I checked/cleaned the oil jet and everything seems fine. I didn’t really do a complete rebuild, more of a clean and inspection of all components. Thanks for watching.
I know a mechanic or two, you sir are the real deal! And as somebody else stated here, you will never be out of a job. And also compliments about the filming angles, light and explanations. I could almost do it myself now, almost, sadly i miss your talent!
Looks like you got a really good buy on this bike, and the video is very clear and the camera angles are really nice. Nice editing too. Thanks for posting this!
Yes I am really happy with it so far. Comments like these are awesome to read and keep me motivated.
Great video! You were really unlucky with that head bolt, but not as unlucky as the previous owner - it cost him far more once he'd realised it was beyond his skills. In the future, the world will be full of broken machines, going for scrap weight as there are fewer and fewer people capable of fixing them. Nice to see someone so young getting into it and wining big!😀
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment. There is not much that is more satisfying than starting and riding something that was broken and put to the side.
I remember taking down my '16 DR650 to install a high-comp piston, a Web223 cam, and a TM40 carb. Pretty easy project overall, but it really wasn't worth the money and effort to get just a little more mid-range and top end power. It was good experience though and a fun project. I should have left it alone though, that big 650 single already has massive torque down low and a nice fat mid-range. I ended up selling that bike and buying a new '21 model because I liked the white color scheme. This time I'm left it stock except for the fuel/air screw adjustment.
Yea it wasn’t too bad of a project. I don’t plan on doing too much more to it except maybe re-jetting the carb.
Hah, I too have a '16 DR650. I was all set to go with an FCR39 Carb and new exhaust, but the BST40 runs just fine with a shim and snorkel removed. Had a bunch of people telling me to drill holes into the air box, but the bike runs just fine. I think I'll leave it.
10:39 So I rebuilt another DR650 motor and thought I was going to have the same issue but what saved me was actually tightening the other bolts back up a bit then removing the stubborn one.
My thinking was if one is still totally torqued down and the others are not, the added tension on the one bolt (instead of being spread equally between the 4) would make it even harder to remove.
Maybe yours what stuck no matter what, but it's something I will definitely keep in mind from now on just in case that's what happened. Hope all is well
You are quite talented. Awesome work!! I’ll be referencing this whenever I’ve got my DR in a million pieces.
Wow thanks for posting this at the perfect time. I'm taking apart one of these engines and the manual says to remove the castle nut holding the crank bearing on behind the flywheel but I don't want to pay £100 for a tool I would use once so I've been trying to find someone who's done it this way.
Yea my bearings were fine so I didn’t want to buy that tool. I had read about doing it that way and glad it worked out. I am putting it back together now so hopefully that video will be up in a week or two.
Damn that was a good video. At 40k I'm looking at 67psi of compression on my DR even at WOT so I'm looking to do some of this work. I hope I don't have the same trouble! Showing step by step is great for someone like me. Thank you.
Make sure to check your valve clearances. The valve and seat wear over time and can cause clearance to be too tight holding the valve open a little. It will cause a loss of compression. I would definitely do a leak down test before taking it apart. These bikes last a long time when taken care of. Hope you get it fixed up and let me know if you have any questions.
Do a leakdown test, it has an auto decompression so that amount of compression with auto decompression isn't bad. A leak down will answer any questions and tell you if/where you need to target your repair.
Just tore mine apart last week, waiting for some parts still. Looking forward to the next video. 👍🏽
Thanks for uploading this. Not planning on doing this but it's good to see the internals and the processes involved in dismantling. Shows the importance of good, clean oil for all those bearings and surfaces too. Bugger about that head bolt but there is always one, lol. You must have been thinking, "This is going smoothly....", Lol.
Yea I was surprised that no one had a good video rebuilding one of these. They are probably on of the most simple motorcycles ever made. Rebuilding it now and hoping there aren’t any more accidents lol.
Bet you put some never-seize on the new cylinder bolts.@@MarleyJaxGarage
Fantastic walk through. Ive never had mine apart, it was great to see the procedure. Thank you much for sharing
did a previous owner overtighten those headbolts? snapping off that bolt would be my luck, too. great video and explanations of the procedure.
I’m not sure. I didn’t really get much history on the bike. It seems like I was the first one in the engine. I think it was just seized from all the heat cycles. Whenever I see a head bolt that is long and goes through the cylinder I get a little nervous.
Awesome video - very informative and a pleasure to watch!
awsome video mate, very helpful so far
Excellent detailed video sorry had to go to all that trouble you make an excellent mechanic🖖🏻🧔🏻♀️🇺🇸
Thanks man I actually enjoy doing full rebuilds and this bike was super simple. Now I know exactly what it looks like in there.
Spark eroder will get seized broken bolt out or centre punch and drill it.
When I get a bolt like that sometimes I'll Weld the top of it just to get the heat to go right through it It gives you way better odds of getting it out.
Before I broke it off? I thought about it but the bolt was so long and I still had hope. I did try once it broke off a bunch more times than shown but it just wouldn’t come free. The machine shop couldn’t get it with a reverse drill bit either.
Sometimes you can unsize it with heat, penetrating oil and hitting the top of the bolt. Steel in aluminium doesnt go well together and vcan seize but copperslip grease between threads in assembly helps it not to seize.
A new improved aftermarket 3rd gear pinion and cam chain tensioner and neutral sending switch problem sorting out is well worth it.
Thanks a lot for sharing!!!
I have a question. The head looked like maybe it had a paper gasket on at one time? I have pulled my head off and put hondabond on and it’s still leaking. Is it possible to use a paper gasket for the head?
I am guessing you are talking about the valve/rocker cover? I don’t think they ever made a gasket for that. I would make sure it’s flat with a straight edge and clean of all old gasket maker. I use a thin layer of yamabond just make sure you let it sit and dry for 24 hours.
I really like ❤ this bike how do you guys get these deals 🙏
How much do you think a complete tear down and rebuild of the DR would cost at a dealership?
Not sure but a dealership will be most expensive. I would take it to a reputable local shop and expect at least 1k in labor.
32:00 you lost a screw. Also there is an oil jet which it's written that it should be replaced.
The screw just fell through the case onto the table, just didn’t show me grabbing it. I checked/cleaned the oil jet and everything seems fine. I didn’t really do a complete rebuild, more of a clean and inspection of all components. Thanks for watching.
Damn $500 is a steal!
Yea every now and then I get lucky on fb marketplace. I am also on it way too much so that might be another reason.
I planed to buy this bike
It’s a really easy bike to work on. So far I really like it.
👍👌
$500 is worth having a spare wheel and tire set
Yea I agree you don’t usually find them complete for 500
Burger foot lettuce voice, nah jks nice vid
Haha thanks for watching!