U can hit the control arm with a hammer outside the ball joint when removing and it will free it up. Might take a couple hard smacks but it works. OR invest in a brass hammer. You can hit threaded ends with a brass hammer to free it without damaging the threads. Being a suspension tech, oneof the best tools i had after i did exactly what you did. Another alternative to reinstall the nut on messed up ball joint thread is if u have a pickle fork, use it to tighten the tension as much as u can on the ball joint and nut then u can impact it on
a brass hammer, you say!??! I've never heard of that before, that's freakin dope!! Any idea why a brass hammer won't damage the threads versus a regular hammer?? O_o
@@Rawrkee brass is soft and the head of the hammer will dent/chip ect rather than damaging whatever you are hitting while still effectively delivering enough force to loosen whatever you are hitting. Brass hammers are desgined for that and still lasts super long despite looking beat up after a couple uses
Just a FYI because I’ve changed over hundreds of balljoints on Honda’s. Loosen the castle nut but don’t remove it. Then with a mallet give the “knuckle” where the balljoint is seated a few solid Wacks and it will pop out. Don’t EVER hit it upwards to try to pop them out. It will mushroom it and then your stuck having to replace the balljoint .
why are you worried about the threads on the balljoint you're removing to replace? you're talking about popping the ball joint off the taper, which is in the lower arm on a prelude, not in the knuckle.
I had to replace my balljoints too lol but I did it because the radius arm balljoint stripped and the nut fell out while I was driving. I went to autozone and oriles but they kept telling me my car only had one balljoint per knuckle. Came back 20 minutes later with the knuckle on the table showing 2 balljoints proving one guy wrong because he was getting mad at me because he knows about those cars haha. But any way I couldn't even get the right balljoint for the radius arm that's a honda part. I used the same balljoint as the control arm for now I'm glad I saw your video because now I know where to buy it cheaper. And I also used the harbor freight balljoint press. I didnt need adapters to press them out though. I used an angle grinder to cut the threaded portion of the balljoint so I have a bit more space to work with and boom easy as pie. I'm new to the honda scene so it be cool if anyone can give me any tips for my car. I have a 1999 prelude sh.
We all start somewhere man. Making mistakes and learning from it only makes you stronger 💪props to you for not giving up. Keep it up man, I'm enjoying the content. Videos remind me of when I started getting into fixing my own cars and I'm sure there are many learning from them.
www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27308-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B01N7TJ61S I have this tool that I use for separating ball joints. Saves me from having to hammer directly on parts and risk damaging them. Even with that tool, I'll still thread the castle nut back on (castle part on top) to protect the threads from damage.
Thanks for the link! I more than likely should go ahead and invest in some sort of tool to remove ball joints just to be safe hahah And thanks man, can't fail until you give up :D
so your using the base model ball joints on the knuckle where the radius arm attaches to it and the SH ball joint on the knuckle where the lower control arm attaches?
Yo cuz. I just ordered from rockauto and got all 8 for 117... That's uppers front and rear, lowers rear, and both front lower forward, and front lower rearward for my type sh. Rock Auto son. Jyea
@@Rawrkee I bough't 2 ac Delco 2 ultrapower, and 4 of the cheapest adjustable upper balljoints. Can't remember thier brand name now. But yea, rock Auto has alot of parts cheap. And you can always eBay search part numbers too.
Hey i have a prelude as well, mine needs a timing belt service but thats not the point of the comment. A suggestion that might help, instead of replacing the ball joint that got bent on the upper control arm, replace the whole upper control arm. Theyre i think 75 dollars, i cant remember if it was that or the wheel bearing i replaced on mine that was 75, but ive had to buy 2 of the upper control arms, a wheel bearing assembly, timing kit, and a headgasket kit so far
ahhh mann, are you gonna change the timing belt yourself??? and thanks for the tip! I'm actually thinking that it'd be best to replace the upper ball joint with a camber kit since I'm planning on going lower with my new wheels :D
@@Rawrkee yeah ive been hacking away at the timing with my uncles help, the crankshaft belt ended up shredding and the gear on the waterpump broke, i honestly have no idea how it was still driving. But its almost fixed
Ya did good though. There are small nubs on all arms you smack with big hammer that drop the joints out Never hit threads. Heat with as torch before you hit it too.
Miguel Ritchie rockauto.com get a pair that is for SH and a pair for base. Type SH has two front lower ball joints on each side and they are not the same
@@Rawrkee I'm up here in canada and it's cheaper for me to buy from rockauto even with the brutal dollar we have going. I'm gonna sub to you channel, check mine out too if you get a moment
U can hit the control arm with a hammer outside the ball joint when removing and it will free it up. Might take a couple hard smacks but it works. OR invest in a brass hammer. You can hit threaded ends with a brass hammer to free it without damaging the threads. Being a suspension tech, oneof the best tools i had after i did exactly what you did.
Another alternative to reinstall the nut on messed up ball joint thread is if u have a pickle fork, use it to tighten the tension as much as u can on the ball joint and nut then u can impact it on
a brass hammer, you say!??! I've never heard of that before, that's freakin dope!! Any idea why a brass hammer won't damage the threads versus a regular hammer?? O_o
@@Rawrkee brass is soft and the head of the hammer will dent/chip ect rather than damaging whatever you are hitting while still effectively delivering enough force to loosen whatever you are hitting. Brass hammers are desgined for that and still lasts super long despite looking beat up after a couple uses
Just a FYI because I’ve changed over hundreds of balljoints on Honda’s. Loosen the castle nut but don’t remove it. Then with a mallet give the “knuckle” where the balljoint is seated a few solid Wacks and it will pop out. Don’t EVER hit it upwards to try to pop them out. It will mushroom it and then your stuck having to replace the balljoint .
I actually hit the balljoint spindle more time since I'm putting in some camber kits hahah
thanks for the tip!!
why are you worried about the threads on the balljoint you're removing to replace? you're talking about popping the ball joint off the taper, which is in the lower arm on a prelude, not in the knuckle.
Yo! Loving the videos man! I have a 97 Prelude SH so you're giving me a lot of inspiration to work on mine and I'm learning a lot! Keep it up!
Bro I got 1997 sh as well. Good luck on build. I'm redoing like everything on mine.
It's def much more discouraging having a SH, ahaha
but yo, put in work and get her runnin smoothly ^____^
I had to replace my balljoints too lol but I did it because the radius arm balljoint stripped and the nut fell out while I was driving. I went to autozone and oriles but they kept telling me my car only had one balljoint per knuckle. Came back 20 minutes later with the knuckle on the table showing 2 balljoints proving one guy wrong because he was getting mad at me because he knows about those cars haha. But any way I couldn't even get the right balljoint for the radius arm that's a honda part. I used the same balljoint as the control arm for now I'm glad I saw your video because now I know where to buy it cheaper. And I also used the harbor freight balljoint press. I didnt need adapters to press them out though. I used an angle grinder to cut the threaded portion of the balljoint so I have a bit more space to work with and boom easy as pie. I'm new to the honda scene so it be cool if anyone can give me any tips for my car. I have a 1999 prelude sh.
We all start somewhere man. Making mistakes and learning from it only makes you stronger 💪props to you for not giving up.
Keep it up man, I'm enjoying the content. Videos remind me of when I started getting into fixing my own cars and I'm sure there are many learning from them.
www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27308-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B01N7TJ61S I have this tool that I use for separating ball joints. Saves me from having to hammer directly on parts and risk damaging them. Even with that tool, I'll still thread the castle nut back on (castle part on top) to protect the threads from damage.
Thanks for the link! I more than likely should go ahead and invest in some sort of tool to remove ball joints just to be safe hahah
And thanks man, can't fail until you give up :D
so your using the base model ball joints on the knuckle where the radius arm attaches to it and the SH ball joint on the knuckle where the lower control arm attaches?
Yo cuz. I just ordered from rockauto and got all 8 for 117... That's uppers front and rear, lowers rear, and both front lower forward, and front lower rearward for my type sh. Rock Auto son. Jyea
gah deng!?!?! Why didn't you read my mind and tell me sooner!?!??! hahah
what brand did you go with??
@@Rawrkee I bough't 2 ac Delco 2 ultrapower, and 4 of the cheapest adjustable upper balljoints. Can't remember thier brand name now. But yea, rock Auto has alot of parts cheap. And you can always eBay search part numbers too.
Thanks for the part numbers! I just ordered the set for my base model.
Hell yeah. So much new paths.
Hey i have a prelude as well, mine needs a timing belt service but thats not the point of the comment. A suggestion that might help, instead of replacing the ball joint that got bent on the upper control arm, replace the whole upper control arm. Theyre i think 75 dollars, i cant remember if it was that or the wheel bearing i replaced on mine that was 75, but ive had to buy 2 of the upper control arms, a wheel bearing assembly, timing kit, and a headgasket kit so far
ahhh mann, are you gonna change the timing belt yourself???
and thanks for the tip! I'm actually thinking that it'd be best to replace the upper ball joint with a camber kit since I'm planning on going lower with my new wheels :D
@@Rawrkee yeah ive been hacking away at the timing with my uncles help, the crankshaft belt ended up shredding and the gear on the waterpump broke, i honestly have no idea how it was still driving. But its almost fixed
how'd ya go about removing the ball joints?
So you have to get two base model ball joints and two type sh model ball joints
Yupp, just think of the SH as a base but with an extra lower ball joint on each side
Would you have the Part numbers
Ya did good though. There are small nubs on all arms you smack with big hammer that drop the joints out Never hit threads. Heat with as torch before you hit it too.
whoaaa, now that you mention it, I think I know about these 'nubs' you speak of. Thanks for the tip bro!
Somebody commented below to get whole upper arm n ball joint in one..that what I did cause pressing ball joints in n out is a pain. Lol .
Does the lower ball joint have 2 or 4 because u only bought 2 but installed 4?
Two on each side
that's how it is bro you try to fix one thing and bang you get hit with another problem
LOL
so pretty much, its usually a good idea to wait for parts cause more than likely, something else is gonna postpone gettin the car back on the road
I have type sh as trying to find some lower ball joints
Miguel Ritchie rockauto.com get a pair that is for SH and a pair for base. Type SH has two front lower ball joints on each side and they are not the same
Hey bro I need me some ball joints as well what’s the part number for them ball joints
Just over night the parts
Yo bro know anybody that knows what lower ball joints fit rear of base model. Cuple threads say say sh front do.....
Rockauto.com man, save way more money
mannn, it's too late for that now, ahahah
thanks for the link tho!
@@Rawrkee I'm up here in canada and it's cheaper for me to buy from rockauto even with the brutal dollar we have going. I'm gonna sub to you channel, check mine out too if you get a moment