Thanks for these videos -- working on designing my own rotary processor, so nice to see more details of the Jobo lift & system. 12:30 I know this video is a few years old, so may not be relevant anymore.. but 113V (or less) is a massive amount of voltage drop from 121V. lol. It really shouldn't be dropping that low during normal use without a bunch of extension cords. We had an issue at the last condo I lived in where the 100A main breaker was making bad contact on one leg and causing low voltage under higher loads and caused the main breaker to get VERY hot (~190F) before thermally tripping. After fixing that issue and rebalancing circuits between L1 & L2, the problem went away. In my new house (also rented), I ran new 12/2 (20A) and 10/3 (2x 30A) circuits to my garage since the idiots who renovated the house ran nearly all the outlets AND garage off the same 15A circuit with 14/2 Romex :|
My darkroom is on the opposite end of my property (across a large backyard) from my breaker panel, so its kinda the equivalent distance of a bunch of extension cords. I'm also pretty sure its not a clean and direct circuit. I have no doubt that I could fix the issue by having a dedicated circuit run to the place, but that would also be a major undertaking that could also involve some trenching and/or concrete work. Right now I just monitor things, and as long as I don't try to run two high-power heating elements at the same time its generally okay.
@@derekkonigsberg2047Ah, sounds like you're in a detached garage/workshop. Makes sense. Yeah, running new electrical there would be a pain. One of the requirements for my house purchase is a detached workshop (or space to build one)... One day anyway.... Cheers
Good info Derek. I have a mixer tap in the darkroom , so I fill the jobo with water a few degrees below processing temperature to speed things up. I'm totally with you about turning the motor off for raising and lowering. It can make some unpleasant graunching noises if the cogs don't mesh cleanly, especially on lowering. I just leave the 'Rotation:' selection highlighted on the keypad during processing and use the up/down arrow buttons to start and stop the motor as required. I have always done my processing in 'Manual' mode, using a stopwatch to time each stage, so I can avoid what I saw as potential problems using the 'Auto' modes.
Yeah, my darkroom is in a detached structure that gets its water supply from the same place as sprinklers and garden hoses. I'm seriously considering asking about having a gas-powered "point of use" water heater installed on the outside of the structure, the next time I have a bunch of stuff for my contractor to do. (There actually are gas lines nearby, for unrelated reasons.) When I originally set this room up, my contractor suggested a small electric point-of-use heater. I'm glad I declined, since it would have made my electrical problems so much worse.
I picked nylon because that's what off-the-shelf hose fittings like it are made out of. You really just need something that'll flex and hold water without cracking or leaking.
Very useful info. I have CPA2 for Many years, and now thinking about upgrading to CPP3. I wonder if you are aware of the CPP3 Classic version. It is basically same one with CPP3 except they changed the controls to rotary dials like CPP2
I've heard of it, and I think I also heard that its only sold in certain countries/markets. Beyond that, I don't really know more about it than you do.
@@derekkonigsberg2047 I have only seen it from Photrio I believe. I wonder if these old school rotary dials will simplify the process and eliminate the potential problems with he quirky electronics.
I open the valve on the left side, let it drain most of the way, then raise up the right side to get it to drain the rest of the way. You can use a turkey baster to help with the last little bit, but this takes care of most of it.
Thanks for these videos -- working on designing my own rotary processor, so nice to see more details of the Jobo lift & system. 12:30 I know this video is a few years old, so may not be relevant anymore.. but 113V (or less) is a massive amount of voltage drop from 121V. lol. It really shouldn't be dropping that low during normal use without a bunch of extension cords. We had an issue at the last condo I lived in where the 100A main breaker was making bad contact on one leg and causing low voltage under higher loads and caused the main breaker to get VERY hot (~190F) before thermally tripping. After fixing that issue and rebalancing circuits between L1 & L2, the problem went away. In my new house (also rented), I ran new 12/2 (20A) and 10/3 (2x 30A) circuits to my garage since the idiots who renovated the house ran nearly all the outlets AND garage off the same 15A circuit with 14/2 Romex :|
My darkroom is on the opposite end of my property (across a large backyard) from my breaker panel, so its kinda the equivalent distance of a bunch of extension cords. I'm also pretty sure its not a clean and direct circuit. I have no doubt that I could fix the issue by having a dedicated circuit run to the place, but that would also be a major undertaking that could also involve some trenching and/or concrete work.
Right now I just monitor things, and as long as I don't try to run two high-power heating elements at the same time its generally okay.
@@derekkonigsberg2047Ah, sounds like you're in a detached garage/workshop. Makes sense. Yeah, running new electrical there would be a pain. One of the requirements for my house purchase is a detached workshop (or space to build one)... One day anyway.... Cheers
Well done. If I ever get a Jobo, I will use your videos as great lessons learned the hard way. Thanks for sharing. Stuart
Very helpful! Thanks for all the tips.
Good info Derek. I have a mixer tap in the darkroom , so I fill the jobo with water a few degrees below processing temperature to speed things up.
I'm totally with you about turning the motor off for raising and lowering. It can make some unpleasant graunching noises if the cogs don't mesh cleanly, especially on lowering. I just leave the 'Rotation:' selection highlighted on the keypad during processing and use the up/down arrow buttons to start and stop the motor as required.
I have always done my processing in 'Manual' mode, using a stopwatch to time each stage, so I can avoid what I saw as potential problems using the 'Auto' modes.
Yeah, my darkroom is in a detached structure that gets its water supply from the same place as sprinklers and garden hoses. I'm seriously considering asking about having a gas-powered "point of use" water heater installed on the outside of the structure, the next time I have a bunch of stuff for my contractor to do. (There actually are gas lines nearby, for unrelated reasons.)
When I originally set this room up, my contractor suggested a small electric point-of-use heater. I'm glad I declined, since it would have made my electrical problems so much worse.
Derek, do you think that using pet-g or pla will be good enough for the overflow workaround?
I picked nylon because that's what off-the-shelf hose fittings like it are made out of. You really just need something that'll flex and hold water without cracking or leaking.
I develop a lot in a CPP2 with lift and the motor was allways running, even when I emty the drum...
Very useful info. I have CPA2 for Many years, and now thinking about upgrading to CPP3. I wonder if you are aware of the CPP3 Classic version. It is basically same one with CPP3 except they changed the controls to rotary dials like CPP2
I've heard of it, and I think I also heard that its only sold in certain countries/markets. Beyond that, I don't really know more about it than you do.
@@derekkonigsberg2047 I have only seen it from Photrio I believe. I wonder if these old school rotary dials will simplify the process and eliminate the potential problems with he quirky electronics.
How do you drain the CPP-3?
I open the valve on the left side, let it drain most of the way, then raise up the right side to get it to drain the rest of the way. You can use a turkey baster to help with the last little bit, but this takes care of most of it.