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Many thanks Derek for the video and i have to say it was refreshing to watch a video without crazy music blasting in the back ground and people trying to be comedians about everything. You explained everything in detail and now i am going to give this a try with all my old kodak cameras i have restored, some i know will be out of focus.

Derek, do you think that using pet-g or pla will be good enough for the overflow workaround?

Ok, what if I mix only what I need for this week?

Great ！

This is superb unfortunately im not handy in computers but more in photography...

Massive help thank you.

camera as collimator works great, make sure to apply some pressure tho as tape alone wont be exact enough. the digital camera should always have a lens longer and faster than the one you are calibrating. I have a 50 1.8 lens that i have fixed at infinity just to do this and i use it only for this purpose.

Thanks for these videos -- working on designing my own rotary processor, so nice to see more details of the Jobo lift & system. 12:30 I know this video is a few years old, so may not be relevant anymore.. but 113V (or less) is a massive amount of voltage drop from 121V. lol. It really shouldn't be dropping that low during normal use without a bunch of extension cords. We had an issue at the last condo I lived in where the 100A main breaker was making bad contact on one leg and causing low voltage under higher loads and caused the main breaker to get VERY hot (~190F) before thermally tripping. After fixing that issue and rebalancing circuits between L1 & L2, the problem went away. In my new house (also rented), I ran new 12/2 (20A) and 10/3 (2x 30A) circuits to my garage since the idiots who renovated the house ran nearly all the outlets AND garage off the same 15A circuit with 14/2 Romex :|

Thanks for showing your setup. Side note: the connection standard for US garden hoses is 3/4”-11.5 NHR (also specified as MHT & FHT for male and female respectively). Whereas NPT [the thread type and not the overall National Pipe Thread specification] uses tapered threads and is typically only used for permanent/fixed connections. Tapered threads are designed to make an interference fit to fully seal, whereas straight threads like NHR, NPSH, and BSP require an o-ring or washer. Dealing with threaded plumbing connections, especially on equipment from other countries is a pain in the ass... lol

Nice drop - I'll have to dice it up a bit to catch everything. 👍🏿

thanks for the help king

hi derek, could you make a short one minute video that shows a black and white print made with a one highlight and one shadow reading made without a test strip, and without dodging and burning? i think for a lot of people speed is the core value proposition of your product. a lot of people adore black and white analog prints but the time involved starts to cut into their lives in a way that pushes people away from this process. all the options that enable incredible accuracy are wonderful to have for an occasional special print or challenging negative so of course you should refer people to this video at the end of the short video for more information. i believe your product can help a lot of people produce far better prints far faster than they are currently making at speed with a lot of guess work and that this is a hugely valuable proposition to a wide audience. this audience is not necessarily technical or interested in technology specifically but would adore your product if presented as a simple and consistent way to produce acceptable prints far faster than they have been able to so far.

Thank you so much for the tutorial . I was stuck as i need to adjust my Rolleiflex intake lens to infinity. I am very grateful for your instructions .

Hello, really excellent video! The variable I am curious about is temperature. Any idea how constant the temperature of the chemicals was when you first did the test to now?

Derek, this is the second time I've watched this video and it is beyond excellent. You're a gifted organizer, precise and to the point with no wasted time or discussion. Helped me a lot.

Hello i want more detailes for this unit and the densitometer. where can we buy tis unit and an estimative price

Well done. Saved me some headaches.

Must use the collimator method for my chroma camera set up. Great guide.

How do you drain the CPP-3?

A question, so what is the procedure if the you cant get a clear image, as in, the infinity is off. I had high hopes of finding a solution.

Hi, thanks for the informative video. Can you tell me where you found Protectan? I can’t find it anywhere in the US

one tip, this 50 mm lens CAN be held open, by turning the knob below the shutter cable socket, this does turn, and if you use B, this does hold open the shutter, if you use any other lens, there is a lever on the shutter bar, opposite to the cable connection, rotate this lever to block the shutter lever, this is a "inhibitor lever", as termed by Linhof, with their shutters, it stops the lever traveling to its mechanical stop, and closing the shutter (in the de-cocked condition, as opposed to the focus mode switch on LF lenses) so this should do what you want it to do.

interesting statement, as sometimes it is NOT sloppy calibration, BUT a technical fault by the user, aka some lenses are retractable, for groundglass and polaroid use, on mamiya 23's, so be aware, and TURN & PULL untill you see the word NORMAL in white, on the focus tube, this focuses the lens for the 'K-BACK' and the other 6x9 and 6x6/6x7 120 roll film backs!!- this is most likely the cause of any missed focus, OR a rangefinder cal. issue.

Fantastic work Derek! For your C41 processing in Jobo CPP3, did you use the Jobo auto C41 setting for developing time of each chemistry and rinse cycles? Or you followed the instruction that came with the particular C41 kit you had got? I often find the times provided from these C41 instruction are intended for the inversion technique. I've heared we need to reduce the time (by 15% ~ 20%) when using rotary machines at 75 rpm for proper contrast. Others say the time reduction is only required for b/w developing. Please let me know your take on that!

Very useful upload! I picked up a new CPP-3 from Catlabs, am in the process of installing it.

Where did you buy the control strips?

Thanks for the info, your Reddit post lead me here. I can rest easier about shelf life... FWIW, if you read the MSDS chart for "Protectan", you'll see that it's just a can of Butane, propane and isopropane. You can save quite a bit of money by just using an unlit torch to purge your chemistry containers instead. Out of curiosity, how much chemistry did you use per roll (35mm 36 or 120) in your Jobo? Thanks

Very helpful! Thanks for all the tips.

If you are using an inert gas, such as Tetenal Protectan, the developer part C concentrate does keep pretty well.

Great video.. I was about to start down this path myself. Now if only I could find someone with the calibration strips in stock.

yeah for Nuka-Cola

Very helpful and gives me a way of checking focus between lenses on my vintage cameras. Thanks!

And I still can't believe weird stuff warehouse is closed :-(

Congratulations Derek, best of luck on your new endeavor.

Congratulations on the new branding and hope to see the products launched soon.

Congrats Derek!

I love your music! Congrats on making this step. How soon before we get a Dektronics sticker pack?

Exciting times! Looking forward to things coming to market.

I bought the same Analyser Pro. I am happy that I save papers by not having to do test strips once you calibrate your system with the analyser.

Thanks for doing this. It takes a certain mindset to get the details right. I'll in that corner now too, but with b&w. I'll call Acurad to see about instrumentation and calibration. Cheers, -Rob

This is actually insane. I love it!

Great to see some numbers on this topic, thanks for doing this!

Thanks for making this. There aren’t enough Jobo videos on the internet. Jobo themselves have made some great videos lately though. I bought the smaller model with and love it.

Looking forward to seeing some more of your videos!! I think that you deserve way more views. Did you ever think of using Promosm!!? It will help you get your videos higher in the TH-cam search results!!!

great work sir

Hi Derek, I've been following your videos here on youtube and your posts over on Photrio for a while now. This Printalyzer project is fascinating and much needed. Do you have any idea on a timeline for brining the Printalyzer to market? I'd like to get on the list, if there is one.

BSP is a standard in the whole World except the United States

where did you take pre exposed Fuji test strips?

This project is dope. I am really excited about it.

Back in the day I would use completely full amber glass bottles. I had no problems pushing the storage times. IIRC I would mix 4L at a time and then split it into 3x1L bottles, 1x500mL, and 2x250mL to give me any multiple of inversion tank I needed. I do recall one of the parts started to oxidize pretty quickly. I did use an air duster to purge the air in an attempt to stem this but it wasn't super effective. My understanding is that temperature cycling is only a problem for film if there's condensation.