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@@nowthenad3286 The hoist has paid for itself many times over. 10 years ago it was not so expensive either. The Maxjax units now are better designed with locks all the way up and are still relatively affordable as hoists go.

@@iftekhar77 Thanks for the kind words :-) Fiskars has just sent me some new parts so apparently an update video is on its way! Maybe I’ll introduce a few more neighbours too :-)

@@npolite22 Unfortunately on this assembly, you can’t. The inner tripod joint does not have a clip retainer...the tripod bearings are staked in place. It is possible to disassemble, but you need to do some very careful grinding and then re-stake..something I would not attempt on the car! You can see the process on the left side joint here: th-cam.com/video/N36UzFy-apk/w-d-xo.html

@@DennisWoodCAD that is terrible. Hopefully it was specific to the leaf. I've seen up to the previous model Altima still has the retaining clip on the tripod joint. If this is what Nissan went to for all new models they are making it to go aftermarket on the replacement. I paid more for the OEM boots over an aftermarket axle. There is no chance I am spending $600 USD or more on one

@@npolite22 After posting this, some folks pointed out that there was now some availability on the aftermarket axles. GSP and Trakmotive is listed at Rockauto for $80-100 USD, which is pretty crazy cheap. I'm pretty sure GSP is actually the manufacturer of the OEM axle assembly. The new OEM boots had a GSP logo molded in as well.

Thanks for the kind words 🙂 My opinion, make sure the axle nuts are at 130 ft/lbs or so for the 2018 and up, and call it done. If the click is still bothering you, it's a pretty spendy job to replace both the axle and wheel bearing. This is likely why the Nissan TSB does not call out a replace, just basically some assembly lube and re-torquing.

@@breakburrito In 40 some years I have not personally repaired a hub/axle with a fully stripped spline…I don’t believe it’s seen often. If yours is that loud, you can check the free play by backing off the axle nut and rotating the axle shaft. It might be advised to go the full route to replace both hub assembly and drive shaft. I would follow the TSB to check for correct axle nut torque, and when an axle or bearing issue arise, inspect and potentially replace both. Based on the service manual, these parts are designed to be an interference fit, but Nissan does not manufacturer either the wheel bearing or axle…so the issue likely rests with tolerances from both manufacturers. On the 2018, I would take the torque up to 134 ft/lbs as the axle, nut, wheel bearing assembly, and steering knuckle are the same parts on the 2018 and up.

I love the haters too :-)

Thanks for hanging in there Shaun :-) The video is a bit long, but I was hoping folks like yourself would appreciate the tips etc. As for the comedy, I make no claims to any kind of expertise in that area..ha.

@@marlobreding7402 I see that..although at the time of shooting Rock had none… I had to replace the outer boot and unfortunately the outer CV joint was stubbornly stuck on there. So I had to slide the outer boot in from the inboard inside as plan B. On the first go, I did just slide the outer boot back and repack it. Sadly, the universal clamp lasted just one week before it tore the old boot and grease was leaking out. Removing the inboard was the last resort. Good news though is take 2 is working great with a new boot, clamp and grease.. and the joint is happy again :-)

@@marlobreding7402 Thanks for that…good news for those going forward!

Thanks for posting this...it's good to see they have some stock finally.

You're quite welcome 🙂

Wow...thanks for doing that calculation. It does sound like a lot of torque at rest, but I'm guessing this would be at the axle. For sure though at a 15% slope (very few streets would exceed that) you would 100% want the emergency brake engaged. The process is stop, but keep your foot on the brake. Engage the parking brake. Relax your foot on the brakes. Then engage park. It's the same for ICE or EV to keep load off the pawl. Then, on a slope, we all know the correct way to turn the wheels so the car hits the curb instead of taking off...which of course is different depending on which direction the car is facing. The LEAF reduction gear transaxle has an approximate 8:1 reduction, and the pawl is at the motor side, so fortunately it would not have to take 500 ft/lbs...which is a good thing if you take a look at it! Now on the hub restraint issue, the NIssan service manual is quite specific on using the tool/bar across the wheel studs, not using the parking pawl. If you had brake rotors in place, then a person inside on the brakes would be fine too. Given the expense of repairing the transaxle, this may very well just a precaution (not using the parking pawl), but for sure I'm not testing it!

@@shaunwilkinson2867 Thanks for the kind words :-) Noxudol is a bit of a pain here as the US distributor does not ship to Canada. I have it shipped to a border store close to us and pick it up. Noxudol Sweden does show a CAD dealer, but the dealer website does not list the product :-(

Thanks Dennis for the follow up response. I’m in a similar situation where it probably makes sense to have the Noxudol shipped from their California distributor to upstate New York where I have a US based address through a freight forwarding company. I think the free shipping threshold (to NY) was $100 USD. Which would not take much to reach at $30USD a can on sale right now. Great shop you’ve got there by the way!

@@shaunwilkinson2867 Thanks...the shop was big project about 10 years ago but has paid for itself a few times over now!

The video pretty much lays out what I’ve used over the last 40 years, what I use now, and why. This video was more to show what a six year old car looks like with zero rust prevention, and my treatment. I will do a follow up to show how well it works after 5 years and 3 years on two different vehicles. I have painted and restored a dozen odd vehicles at this point, so felt a contribution would be useful to others on the topic. Thanks again for your feedback.

@@luburan1973 I would post up a video in a separate thread. This is likely not a simple CV axle click issue.

@@DennisWoodCAD Car is Ford focus 2.0 diesel with Getrag 450 6 speed transmission

@@luburan1973 I have zero experience with those, so can’t help I’m afraid :-(

@@Levibetz I have a couple Task extendable supports in the shop that I use exactly as you described, quite often :-). For this job I just ran two wheel nuts on to the studs (brakes were not installed) and used a 3 foot pry bar on them to hold the hub for torquing.

If you are able to locate that TSB, please post up a link :-)

I didn't say it was a clean job! You do need to get your hands a bit dirty (and a few other parts too) to do this work :-)

@ElarMack-ci1of The CV shaft assembly is commonly referred to as a CV axle assembly. I did not make up the verbiage. To call it CV clicking would be misleading as the sound is not coming from the CV joint. To your point regarding Fred Flinstone, his car had stub axles, and a monolithic stone wheel, so you're right...he likely knew what an axle is :-)

wow...ok, I'll take that compliment..ha.

No worries..hope it was helpful.

I'd agree. A torque wrench is 100% the prescription for pretty much any nut or bolt on the vehicle! That said, with these 3rd gen bearings, the bearing is pretensioned by the roll forming on the bearing assembly and can take a lot more abuse than the older 1st gen press in bearings that need an axle in place under pre-load before taking weight.

You're quite welcome 🙂

@@LivvyWood-x1w Well, you should recognize that car :-)

Not a bad concept at all. Thanks for the idea!

@@robgonzalezphotography These were the ones. They have proved useful for a few other projects as well :-) www.amazon.ca/dp/B081W5P4GD “DIYMAG Waterproof Neodymium Bar Magnets with Epoxy Coating, Powerful Permanent Rare Earth Magnets, with Double-Sided Adhesive - 60 x 10 x 3mm, Pack of 24”

Thank you!

@@LivvyWood-x1w yes, no nuts jokes :-)

@@decepti0n Thanks…hard to believe the star is now 21…ha.

@@mosesizeta8902 No worries..glad you found it useful.

Sure, but i'm pretty sure I can't fit "How about don't cause an accident because your rear lights are obstructed and unsafe for your fellow motorists", into a TH-cam thumbnail 🙂

Pretty sure you have to loosen them to adjust, so no :-)

@@DennisWoodCAD well, from experience I can tell you that you don't have to 😂 but it's really hard to turn the adjustment screws any you may bend things easy out of shape. (I didn't know about the locking screws the first time I tried to adjust it)

For stuff like this, I just spray the blades with a product like Fluid film, particularly in the fall when you're putting it away. The snowblower gets the same treatement in spring.

You're welcome :-)

Thanks for the kind words :-)

@@DennisWoodCAD I got this done a couple weeks ago, and it is working out very well. Gives me a level of comfort knowing the rack and hence the bike are now more visible

Glad it was helpful :-) Good luck with your install.

Thanks James :-)

You didn’t ask me, but I got an Ecohitch. A bit more money but they’re great.

@@dorkapotamusinc.4534 googling now!

The LEAF is a 2018 SL. The hitch and hitch wiring came from etrailer.com as I recall (EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"). Hitch is here: www.etrailer.com/p-306-X7221.html?hhyear=2018&hhmake=Nissan&hhmodel=Leaf Curt has a very nice wiring kit as well, although I did have to run a fused power wire from the battery up front, to the trailer wiring at the back: www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Nissan/Leaf/2018/C56227.html?VehicleID=201824253

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Whipple. We'll have to get out again when it's not dark! Stay tuned for the snow sequel :-)

Thanks whknee :-) It's been awhile but I believe 1/2" to 5/8" ID hose will work. The axles have sealed bearings as a I recall, so not much you can do there other than feeding them a few drops of oil.

Colter, 1/2" to 5/8" ID should work.

Yep, the back lane does encourage chat with your neighbours. I have met most of them and chat often!

I do have to grease the same wheels every year or two. Some bearings in the fronts would have been nice!

Yes, spin them backwards...pretty I was doing that in the vid.

@@DennisWoodCADyou did while sharpening. I was just saying while applying the compound and while cleaning it off. I don’t know if it makes a big a difference I just feel like in dulling them back up when spinning the blades forward with compound still grinding on the blades I haven’t yet cleaned.

@@chrisunruh6485 During removal, it won't make much difference, but your point is a valid one if you want to keep things consistent :-)