Hello Guys. The Chrysler Wagon you mentioned. What if, instead of a 4 door, it was a 2 door? Little choppy choppy squishy squishy? Think, original mad max, his family wagon. But with zoomies lol.
I had one in a mud truck with 425000 miles on it. ran it in the ketchup all day at mud bog. Overheating all of the last half of the day, with 4 inches of mud covering whole motor. And I sold it months later. To a guy in town it's still alive I see him all the time in it still.....That was 12 years ago.
I want a 4.9l 300 straight 6 lots of torque in those lil motors. I currently have 3 88xl f250 twin i beam 460 89xlt lariat f150 351w 4x4 90xlt lariat twin i beam 460 full time locked rear end on 285's.
Its always a treat when you have Scott on the channel. Its like taking a class on engines. The internet is full of people who "know" about engines. Its great to hear someone who ACTUALLY knows!
Clicked on the video, and was going to check the comments to see what happened to Scott. I was surprised but happy to see him back! Him and Rich have good on screen chemistry, and you can tell from his work he's a master at what he does.
It's got a cop motor, a 345 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspensions, cop shocks. It's a model before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas.
A 345 cant touch the real 440 cubic inch plant. That chase scene under the EL where it was going 120+ was real time..in a 4400 pound land barge They could max at 142 mph..A true mission from God
@@netrioter a 1969 or 1970 Polara or Fury could do 142mph, not an 8.2:1 compression 440 73 Monaco, it was reading 126 on the speedo on the film, that's what they ran, odds are that a 400 car with the same heads, cam, carb and gearing would have a higher top end because it would be able to rev a few more rpms after the 440 is out of breath.
Agreed. Got a 5.7 in My 14' Charger, and have had no mechanical issues. 100,000 on it, and I change the oil regularly, and don't let it idle for long periods of time.
The non mds hemi at least you can run the exhaust valve springs from the 6.1 as an upgrade. I swapped all mine to 6.1 exhaust springs when i cammed my 05. 16 were under 100 if i recall, but that was about 10 years ago.
I'm a fan, on my 3rd one. 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee right at 100,000 miles. Wife drives a 2008 Aspen with 230,000 miles & I had an 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 280,000 still ran great
Hi I also have a 2013 Grand just hit 133K. It started to idle funny and I was thinking it wiped a cam lobe. But no it was just a broken EVAP valve on the charcoal canister causing a vacuum leak! I even sent the oil out with 8000 miles on it, and they said it looked great. Been doing 10,000 mile intervals with 5w20 Castrol edge since new (always added 1 quart at 5000), and it looked clean when I did the intake and valve cover gaskets on it at about 100K. Have just loved every minute with this Jeep, great size, great 4x4 system and great power, for not a lot of money. What an improvement over the 3rd generation. What's crazy too is that the oil looks cleaner draining out of this engine with 10,000 miles, then it does coming out of my well maintained 4.0L six with 3,000 miles. I also recognized your name, pretty much anytime Im looking for a video on a vintage car, you have one. Unbelievable how many you have made!
as someone who's blown up a 5.7. the proper oil, not just the weight, but the specs, and changing it at regular intervals is a huge part of keeping these running. I was lazy and used cheap oil that didn't have the proper certifications and it bit me in the ass.
The original tick is from the valve train - which chrysler did try to tighten the tolerances from what I was told in training, but they started having issues with too tight causing excess wear. The trucks mainly have issues with 5 of the exhaust manifold studs breaking off, the right rear 2 first, then the left rear 2 all of which are from the weight of the exhaust hanging off the rear (GM trucks do the exact same thing) and the 5th bolt that breaks is the left front on the versions that use that to hold the dipstick tube. The lifters rarely have an issue with the MDS. Been working as engine tech at a chrysler dealership since 2006 and can only remember 1 time the lifter failed due to MDS. Most common is the roller or the plastic retainer for the lifter, which I have seen the exact same issue with LS as the lifter design is very similar with the plastic tray and the roller lifter.
dodge always lie they dont want to fix the problem because it causes us to buy again damm crooked schemes. i,m pissed right now mines damage the cam at only 160 kilometers insane and i always baby it like my older dodges.
My daily for 2 years was a 2011 2500 with a 5.7. Low miles, got it at 48k switched to a Cummins at 70k. My only problem was exhaust manifold bolts breaking. Always around #7. I towed a 10k trailer with a 6850 lb roller all the time.
@@moparjr89 it’s best to get shorty or long tube/srt headers when addressing that. The issue is how much heat those thick ass manifolds hold. They warp a touch and break the bolt.
@@talkingprimate3521 that’s exactly what I’ve heard from a few techs. I changed the manifold out the first time, didn’t matter one bit. There is a lot of heat meeting up right at the junction of the last port and the outlet.
I own a 2011 ram with the 5.7. It snapped all but 3 exhaust manifold bolts (combined both sides) at 47,000 miles. Threw new headers on and it's been extremely reliable since.
@@dimensionexo. Yes, I got the truck with 40,000 on it and from the moment I got it, I noticed a slight ticking noise (most noticeable from the wheelwell) that was louder than I was used to engines ticking. In the next 7,000 miles, it slightly got worse until one week I started it up and it sounded like someone was rapping the block with a hammer once per rpm. Accelerating was pretty scary. Drove it like that for 500, then threw some Amazon shortie headers on it and during the process found almost all of my exhaust manifold bolts had snapped off within the head. Absolutely miserable job on the 2011 as there's no space to work in or maneuver the headers. After installing the headers, the tick I had is completely gone.
Former mopar tech here, the gen 3 hemi engines in the later trucks 2009+ have 6 bolt mains. The 6.4, 6.1, 6.2 also have piston cooling jets, 5.7 does not
5.7 Hemi: Do an oil change every 5k or less. Never sit idle, treat it like a race engine and turn it off. Deactivated the "cylinder deactivation" every time you drive by locking out the gears in 8th. Always let it warm up untill you no longer hear the lifters ticking. If ticking continues once the temp is up, see a mech. Could be lifters or manifold.
I had an 05 ram with a non mds 5.7 hemi in it. Loved that engine. I put a 6.1 cam and push rods / valve springs in. 250 wet shot of nitrous. The truck ripped. Word of caution though for anyone new to power adders; the ring gaps on them stock are tight. If your gonna run power adders its best to open em up. Or just go easy on the boost / nitrous.
I have had two of the newer 5.7 hemi engines. As of right now I own a 6.4 hemi in a 2016 powerwagon. It has the typical tick. But I noticed that also will change based on oil type and when I change the oil and the type of gasoline I use. My truck only idles when warming up or sitting at the stop light. Oil changes are key to healthy engine life.
I’m on my 4th Ram with a 5.7 right now. I’m not easy on my stuff i never keep any of my vehicles much past 200,000 kms but for the most part they’ve been great. My last one chewed up the cam because the rollers on the lifters seized up in #1 cylinder, it developed a misfire issue from the cam lobes being flat. The steel from that went through the engine it scored all the bearings and caused low oil pressure. I replace the hemi with a used low mileage one and got rid of the MDS before I installed it and it was the best running one of them all.
Incredible rod bearing! I bought a new Detroit Diesel 8V92TTA powered semi in 1979. I took it to the DD shop in Memphis, TN with 675k miles for rod and main replacement as a preventative. All bearings looked as good as that rod bearing off #6 so much so that DD asked the shop to send them in to their lab for analysis. I never heard back but I must say, that was absolutely the best engine I ever owned and I have owned a bunch!
I did 225,000 miles in my 6.1 srt8 300c touring (estate car) with no engine failures. Oil changed every 7,000 miles engine was great. Just thought id share as fact are better than beer talk.
I love that you did a 3rd gen hemi and yeah my own experience is from owning my 13 Charger R/T with 210,000 KMs or 130K miles the ONLY issue ive run into with the car has been the MDS system its caused a half dozen misfires plus 2 engine shutdowns at highway speeds other than that zero issues not even electrical issues. I want to throw a whipple supercharger on it and make 550HP
@@Chef_PC Z automotive makes a OBDII dongle for Mopar vehicles to unlock features you wouldn't normally have access to mainly the SRT pages for V6 or 5.7 cars but mainly it allows you to disable the MDS system as far as I know it's the better way to do it the extras being a decent selling point on top of it
@@jaubuchon28 cam tower leak, air injection pump failure, timing chain failure, quite a few early water pump failures, and the stupid oil filter housing lol
When i worked at my local shop in high school (just did oil changes and tires) we had a regular customer come in with his beat to hell ram 2500 with a 5.7. only ever had to do regular maintenance. last time i saw it it came in for an oil chance at 370,000 miles. It def had the lifter tick tho. Def think you should build that 5.7 you have and put it in a Dodge Magnum wagon and mate it to a 6 speed manual. would be a sick wagon haha, but i'm biased as i always wanted an SRT Magnum
@@yurhi - it's gotta be better than the 3 valve V10 in my F450 work bucket truck which had to be replaced at 45,000 miles! We have tons of idle time hours so they blamed it on that, haha.
I had a ram v10 for many years. It was the only vehicle I have ever owned that did not break down. But it was a gas hog so I sold it and bought a 12 valve. Have not looked back.
The one failure I didn't hear you mention was the valve seats. The pre-eagle 5.7 doesn't have the issues with the 'Hemi tick' like the eagle version. However, if they overheat the aluminum heads are bad to drop the steel valve seats and this will destroy the entire engine. So it is important to take care of the cooling system on these.
I 2nd this. Had an 05 magnum with the 5.7 and it dropped the #6 intake valve into the cylinder out of nowhere one day when I started it after getting groceries. The quick heat cycles really killed those due to the different expansion rates of the metal.
Valve seats failed on early Eagles, too, along with timing chains and tensioners. Lifters were an issue on all 3G Hemi V8s. MDS, Non-MDS, cars, and pickups alike. They all had failures. The 318 and 360 Magnums were far more durable.
As a Mopar guy, thank you for not tearing the hemi to pieces and saying how terrible it is... I had a 1958 392 hemi that was built, forget the specs, but it was an amazing sounding and torque motor. As for what to put the hemi in, here are a few ideas from price (cheap to pricey): 2nd gen standard cab short box dakota with a 5 speed (and yes it will bolt right up to a hemi, 1st Gen durango and do a dakota 5 speed swap it, had a 5.9 rt awd durango that I was hoping the trans would go in just so I would have the excuse to swap, 1st Gen dodge pickup d150 (82 to 92), lastly unobtainium no rotted ramcharger/trail duster. If you were to go sporty car, I'd say any 80s/90s import. Waiting for the hemi rebuild series, as I've got 2 5.7s first is going in a 1974 ramcharger and another that is going in a 1970 dodge powerwagon.
I see most engine failures due to lack of oil changes. It's even more important to keep the newer engines with fresh oil. I still change my oil every 5000km. Have a 1998 f150 with a 4.6L and have not gone into the engine at 500000km. I also own a 2019 chev 1500 and still change eng oil at 5000km. Would be cool to see that hemi in an old dodge truck. Thanks gor the entertainment
@@kellsAC1 They can say it's a lower cost of maintenance over the life of the vehicle. And yes manufacturing and machining processes are more advanced now, but a 7500 or 10k mile oil change is crazy imo. The products these days are just considered throw away products.
My 07 Dodge had a rear main oil leak and I found out when I did an oil change. Only 1 quart out of the sump but I never lost oil pressure or had any issues. Replaced the rear main, filled with fresh oil and thrashed on it some more. I eventually sold it when I upgraded trucks but never had any engine issues at all. It's one heck of a motor and I was never easy on it. Had to replace the rear suspension because I pulled trailers that were heavier than what it was rated for, but the motor never struggled with any of it.
Everything I have read and heard is the 5.7 if ever overheated drops valve seats and destroys the engine. All the hot rod guys say don't re-use the stock heads and put Edelbrock heads on them for security. This seems to be the end of life criteria for most 5.7's. I understand the 6.4 cylinder head doesn't have the same issue.
03-08 drop valve seats, 09+ eat up camshafts when the lifters lock up. That’s the only real issues I see with them. I reuse head bolts with cam and lifter jobs
It’s true! I had a 300C and it dropped the valve seats. Later, had a Jeep GC and it also dropped valve seats. At least the Jeep went 220 miles before imploding.
@Jr Jr Ive heard that too, my hemi-sensei friend in the gen3 hemi racing world built a friend's magnum that has been running 9lbs on a procharger for years and still going strong. It's the piston ring placement on the pistons that are the biggest issue Ive seen. They do make boost specific pistons aftermarket for these engines though.
I have a Ram 1500 (2004) with the 5.7. Decent truck. I’ll need to fix all the flapper doors in the heat/air system. That’s the worst of it. The engine is solid after 140K miles. Good motor, as far as I’m concerned. 👍
its crazy. My 2011 5.7 with 212k having ran royal purple 5w20 the past few years looked absolutely spotless inside zero sludge whatsoever, zero debris, nothing. I wouldnt of believed it had I not seen it myself. Mine was a hard driven copcar so it saw all 4 seasons, my manifold bolts are testament to that. Fortunately bolt extraction is a common task for me but pro tip don't try and put headers on a car with rusty header bolts, if you snap a header bolt on a car with this engine you have to pull the head.
Are you being sarcastic? You call that clean?! I'd be embarrassed if that were my engine. Obviously a very poorly maintained/abused engine. Why would they choose to tear down/critique an abused engine for this video?
@@budlanctot3060 I think they intentionally picked a high mileage engine more than anything, that way any potential wear (like those wear marks on the lifters) would be more easily shown. Also shows just how reliable these engines can be, almost 500k kms and filthy inside but still made it there. Not bad I must say. - A Chevy guy
Dropped valve seats were a common issue in the 03-04 engines with a fix in the 05's and onward that dramatically reduced the issue. Had a 04 Durango with the 5.7 in it, always ran Mobil 1, never had any overheating issues or anything else, drove home from work on a Friday in late November, went to start it on Sunday, immediate clatter like mad and then a bang. Dropped the valve seat which kept the valve stuck open, piston hit it, snapped the rod which are cast. Looked it up online and found it was a common failure at the time. Vehicle had 115,000 miles on it and was about 5 years old. Got an 05 engine from a Ram truck with 26k on it, had the dealer swap it and I put 75k on it before I sold it to a friend of mine that's still driving it now and he's put about another 75k on that engine with no issues. They did have swap the oil pan as the pan for the Durango is a different shape than it is for the Ram truck. Cost about $4k for the swap including the motor from a pull it yard.
@@moparjr89 even then, like they said, good regular maintenance / oil changes (with the right oil) and the lifter problem only really manifests with a lot of idle time (mostly from what I've seen). I love my 5.7, I just don't let it idle (with gas as high as it is that's a no brainer anyways)
@@moparjr89 they’re garbage engines. Everyone I’ve seen at the junkyard had chewed up pistons on one side. After 8 years of searching I decided to just ls swap my ram. Impossible to find a used hemi at a self service junkyard.
@@tacticalultimatum usually no. Mostly clean wholesale vehicles. Whose gonna want a 2001 tahoe with 205k from a new car dealership? They end up in the scrap yard.
Oil changes on the 5.7 and other hemis are a complete must. I also run a blend of zddp additive every oil change. Personally I use Royal Purple but many people like Schaefer's. Whatever you use develop a habit of changing the oil at less intervals. Personally I pick 3500 miles. All good so far. 5 years of ownership and I've only changed One sensor
Ever since I got my first 2003 5.7 Hemi I have enjoyed it. I have never had an easier time swapping an engine before and they are super easy to work on. They rev to the moon and back, and you can lean on them really hard if you need to all the way up to 5,500 RPM and hold it there for a while it love's it. That thing is fun and super reliable. I have been a Mechanic for 20 year's and I cannot believe it took me this long to get a Hemi. I have a Ford, Chevy. And now a Dodge...Still a Ford guy though.
Be cool to hemi swap a 4x4 amc eagle put a 03 or 04 hemi in it but good luck nowadays find an amc eagle that someone doesn't want arm an leg for or pile of rust
I'm no authority on these engines or on the net, but I just changed my 09 HEMI plugs with fine wire iridiums, and i think it lights off faster, and runs smoother, so far anyway.
I would love to see a video on any of the magnum series engines. The 3.9, 5.2/.9 and the mighty 8.0 all of those engines seem to be pretty reliable too
And far obsolete, the newer engines are going to be much more durable due to better materials, tighter tolerances and computer engines management which runs the engine in the optimal range.
Same. These are what I run. I've pulled a few 360s from the salvage yard. I did a total gasket job, oil pump, and timing chain and dropped it right in. No problems.
I have a 2008 2500 with a 5.7 hemi and 270k original miles. On the engine transmission and rear end. I’ve been threw 3 AC compressors 1 master cylinder for my brakes and countless sets of brake pads and 1 brake caliper oh I forgot 1 water pump
Alot of people don't realize this engine has two spark plugs per cylinder haha.. and yeah oem plugs are best. But with mopar oem parts are usually the better option :)
Agreed. My 14' R/T came with NGK plugs from the factory, so as baffled as I was they weren't Mopar plugs, I replaced them with the same NGK Iriduim plugs they came with. No issues at all since.
Oh come on with that last second diss ! You were doing so well all throughout the video !! - 5.7 Magnum owners everywhere (Loved the video, always interesting to see a high-mileage unit get torn apart to see the wear !)
I'd put it in an older Dodge pickup D-150/250 that was originally a gasser as they're pretty easy to find for cheap. Make a cool shop truck with some get up and go. Plus Holley has made all the brackets to get one of these Hemi's to fit into that platform. Was cool to learn about the cross hatch stuff. Very good knowledge to hang onto.
We have a gen 2 392 which is a 6.2 liter hemi in our 2013 challenger drag car and it runs low 10's screaming out the back end of the track . Even that 5.7 hemi is a good motor of you take care of it. My friend owns the car and he has a ton of money tied up in the just the motor . Thats not including what he has in the car. The motor is all stock minus a high duration cam and it has 650 hp at the flywheel
The lifters are the last thing to get oil in a hemi, oil travel path from filter to mains, camshaft, up through the cylinder head into the rocker shaft assemblies. DOWN through the pushrods into the lifters. Former Chrysler level 3 tech. Chrysler has a procedure for the dreaded lifter tick(if the lifter is damaged then this procedure WILL NOT WORK) with engine at operating temperature, rev the engine between 2500-3000 rpms for 20 minutes in park. Purges the air out of the lifters. The angle and the poor oiling of the lifters are the hemis Achilles heel. Chrysler says it's due to prolonged oil changes. Specifically in fleet vehicles that idle. Oil changes need to go by engine hrs not mileage.
NO. I refer you to page #69, Larry Shepard's book, NewHemi Engines. There is a very large schematic diagram of the oiling circuit. PRIMARILY oiling to the lifter bodies is from the two large oil galleries. The normal(for v-8's for the last 50yrs, at least) Chrysler oil circuitry for the upper valve train exists via the passages in the rocker stands, rocker shafts, rockers. The only slight difference is the hollow pushrods, like they used in the small block Magnums(& 3rd gen Hemis) from '89 on.
@@budlanctot3060 I can only tell you what I was taught directly from Chrysler. I also have oil schematics directly from Chrysler illustrating that those oil galleries feed the camshaft and go up through the head. So either Larry is wrong or Chrysler is. And I can believe either could be. I've seen enough mistakes from Chrysler 😂. I guess the only real way to tell is looking at the lifter bores and see where the oil galleries are. Lifter issues didn't become apparent until 2009 with the variable valve timing. MDS was introduced in 2006 I believe? But remember oil is used to turn the MDS on and off. So if oil flow to the lifter bores was constant then the MDS would be on all the time. So no... I do believe Larry is wrong. Those oil galleries supply oil to the MDS solenoids. The lifters themselves receive oil from the pushrods.
I've heard people say if your hemi spends alot of time idling that you should keep track of the hours not miles to determine when to change your oil and that will keep your cam from failing.
I think you can put in the Iridium spark plugs that the newer ones have, A friend did it in his 2011 and it worked fine. My 2015 have 100.000 miles intervals (Iridium)
@@donaldliverance2597 my 2011 5.7 runs bosch double iridium and the throttle snaps like a 2stroke. That being said maybe coppers would run better im not sure.
Really, I thought changing the plugs not that bad, at least on a car it wasn't bad. I don't know about a truck. I found it helps to have the correct length magnetic spark plug socket & integral wobble extension.
I had a 2004 Durango with the 5.7 HEMI that had the hydrolock at about 75K kms. It thru a rod out the side of the block in my driveway on start up one morning. I understand that the plastic intake is the problem letting water in. I'll be interested in your thoughts on that...
Cool to learn it here after I just personally experienced it that still seeing the crosshatch on a cylinder doesn't count if it's shiny. Happened to witness it on nikacyl and iron 2 stroke cylinders doing rebuilds over the winter
YES YES YES SUNDAY MORNING DEBOSS!!!! Thanks Rich and Aaron for doing what you guys do!!! I like it right away as I've have watched EVERY SINGLE VIDEO you guys have put out and there isn't one I didn't like at least one thing one them!!!! Anyway Good Morning from Vancouver Island BC Canada 🇨🇦❤️❤️🇨🇦
I have a 04 Hemi in my truck that might be a Dodge. After 15 years the electronics start to crap the bed. That is also in the rust belt and I tried to keep it sprayed off in the winter and the power steering leak helped stop rust.
I've got a 2015 Ram 1500 I bought new. I've been across the Rocky's twice and up the Coq multiple times towing my travel trailer. Truck has been great, lots of power great ride. Only issues I've had had been the exhaust bolts. I'm thinking of switching to shorty headers to see if that helps.
Manifolds could be doing warped. Most shops replace the bolts without checking to see if the manifolds are warped. I've been told that aftermarket headers have more material and resist warping and therefore the bolts don't snap.
Really great video Rich. Ive been elbow deep in these engines day and night the past couple years, What if you built a street-legal stockcar with this engine? For a few grand you could get a chassis and body to splice as others have done. Make it a forged high revving stroker with a meaty cam, the Comp HRT stage 3 sounds great for an out of the box option. More info on that on my channel. As for lifters, they were really bad 2011 and got better after. 03-05 hemis were bad for dropping valve seals and having timing chain issues. Being that you have the first line of 3rd gen Hemi... I suggest upgrading your timing chain to the heavy duty 6.1 hemi timing chain. You can also use a 6.1 hemi crank as they are forged version of the 5.7. These parts are not the same on the later 2009+ Eagle Hemi's. Your header bolts will put up a fight, being that this is an old and well ran engine those bolts are likely rusty little sticks ready to snap, about 1/5 of my oem exhaust manifold bolts snapped on removal (godhelp anyone with an old rusty hemi in a car trying to install headers- spoiler: head removal). Exhaust manifold bolts are m8x1.25, stage8 has a great kit for gen3 hemi header bolts. Also ONLY USE OEM EXHAUST GASKETS ON THESE. All other exhaust manifold gaskets are known to fail especially the RemFlex gaskets. Just get OEM type and save yourself the headache. Also the connecting rod bolts on these are TTY so keep that in mind, just the same as head bolts. ARP makes a headSTUD kit for these engines but I haven't seen a headbolt kit, I did all my work in the car so I just got MAHLE for everything. These engines also have a wierd habit of throwing the inner ring off the balancer as they get old and crusty (mine did) I upgraded to an overly expensive 6% OD ATI superdamper which still uses stock belt size, so i could tell people I had a NHRA certified $500 pulley. It comes with black oxide bolts so RIP if your rig isn't garage kept(like me. I cry inside every time I see my damper getting rusty) Reccomend spraying fluidfilm in your damper and wiping the excess if you go that route. Its sin to have a rusty superdamper. Like it isn't a common thing to happen, losing part of the dampener, but Ive seen it happen a few times which is wierd enough to mention I have one super super super handy trick to these engines when installed in cars. The valve cover bolts are a BIIITCH to remove if you don't have the Titan brand 1/4" micro swivel ratchet from princess auto SKU 8947145. Stock valve cover bolts are 8mm head, you can upgrade them to m6x1x25mm stainless steel bolts and re use the rubbers but you have to do a little stack of washers on top. Oilpan: if your using the 5speed, and your application permits, get an aluminum oilpan from a car as the oilpan is a gusseted design liek the old chrysler smallblocks to provide more support between the engine and transmission, it uses the same trans botl pattern as the old chrysler smallblocks too from what I recall. Lots of drag racers prefer the aluminum car oilpans for this reason, one of my speedshop's race teams were breaking belhousings every 10 or so passes until they switched back to the car oilpans. Oilpan, Valve covers, coilpacks, front fenders, and possibly intake manifold I forget, are m6x1x25mm machine screws, fastenal has em in grade 10.9 with ecoguard part number 11552483 and matching washers 11552364. Some neat fun trivia about my own experience. Rebuilt a clapped out ex cop car that had the rust real bad(it was my quarantine project, I didnt say it made any financial sense), had nothing but bad luck with it, first I was one of the jackstand recall statistics, then going to my last carshow of the year a big ass rock was dropped on a bridge under construction, took out the oilpan and my skidplate. Right now it's on jackstands(custom heavy duty fabricated stands not storebought, fool me once as they say) soon to rebuild the bottom end. Gotta drop the cradle to get the oilpan off on Chargers. And yes, new skidplate is 1/4" AR400. I'll be putting spacer pucks ontop of my struts to make up for the height. When the oilpan got taken out it was like... 1 or maybe 2km until we could safely stop as it was a construction zone. Im not saying ive had nightmares about the state of my crank and bearings but Im also not saying Ive not. The info about the aluminum bearings galling with lack of oil sure worries me. I was already planning on getting some ACL racing bearings so, I guess worries are not un-founded at least. That's everything I can think of at the moment, I will likely drop more walls of text on your subsequent videos though.
I know there are tons of videos on the Chevrolet small block 350 and Chevrolet LS engines, it would be nice to see a comparison along with the pros and cons of each side by side. Maybe even add a Chevrolet 350 small block made into a 383 small block in that comparison as well.
I loved my 07 2500 5.7. no mds and plenty of power stock with a few easy mods. There's literally ps pulleys alllll over the net if you search for 5 seconds.
It is completely overlooked and many will disagree..but this is not a 3rd gen..it's 4th gen..the 3rd gen is the 4.7 it is a overhead cam hemi..just like the ford S.O.H.C 427 the spark plugs go through the top of the cylinder head..because the cam is in the center of the head..The HO engine was a Grand Cherokee exclusive for the 2002-2004 and boy it's got some real good go fast goodies and the bottom end is like some racers wet dream starting with the forged steel crank..then in 2008 they revamped the 4.7 to get 305 hp out of 285 ci..now that in anybody's book is impressive !
Mid to late 60’s Dart Hemi clone 😌 maybe an early 70’s Plymouth satellite wagon 😎maybe late 60’s cornet wagon. Ok I’m a wagon guy 😐 Maybe a dodge van look up Dajiban 😎
I've heard about that too. There's a guy in town with a retired cop charger. He went with a hellcat pump after replacing the cams and lifter. The lobe was beaten flat, Completely round. He kept the cam and he had it with him at the meet. It was amazing to see a cam like that in person
I love your "everything wrong with" series of videos. I'd like to see some more classic engines like the GM 350 or the ford 300 i6 or even mildly modern like the jeep 4L or ford 2.3
You're gonna be hard fought to find weak points in a 350 or a 300. A 4.0 tho I know those like to eat lifter if you bounce the limiter on one that isn't marked as an H.O. My buddy's gone through 7 engines all that same way
I think there's a guy on TH-cam that sort of fixed the annoying Hemi "tick" by swapping out the oil pump from a 392 or a Hellcat. They're supposed to be a higher volume pump than the 5.7.
@@koreywilliams4570 I had a 95 Sonoma with the 4.3 vortec and the t5 manual, sadly sold it when I bought my bmw but I found a pretty mint 1994 s10 with the same motor and trans as my old Sonoma
Hey Rich, how about stuffing that in an old plymouth volare sleeper? I used to have one that i put a set of 340 six pack heads on a 318, changed the cam and used a police interceptor manifold on so i could run more than a 2 bbl on it. the hemi in there would be wierd.
Just had to replace the camshaft & lifters on my 2011 Grand Cherokee Hemi. Mileage was 129,4xx. Sounded fine and still had plenty of power before the terrible misfire started on a Friday morning on my way into work. Let me tell you, I couldn't believe the carnage done to the camshaft.
Had a 03' 2500 around the shop for a year ,dropped valve seat. Thought it would be an easy find with cop cars ,jeeps ,and 300's .Looked for a used engine,all the junkyards laughed and said good luck. In the south where rust isn't so much of an issue they get used up.Finally gave up and parted the truck. Still came out on the truck but wouldn't buy one again.
Me with my 06 Daytona Charger 5.7L Hemi and it being my first car, and daily driver for almost the last 5 years... Lol. I went into it knowing of some of the ''issues'' and just kept them in mind. 6k KMS oil changes with just some decent synthetics from Canadian tire (on sale ofc, anyone buying at regular might as well get Amzoil for the cost). Not an issue, changed out the thermostat, rad hoses as a precaution. Engine wise, its been a beauty, beat on, winter driven (young kid and now young adult, beat the hell out of it) no problems. Overheat it? Probably gonna drop the valve seat. Run low on oil at all for a long time or not faithful in oil changes? Lifters might poop the bed. I control what i feel i can and let the rest take its course. Truck engines got the tick from the manifold bolts which well, isnt desirable. Not on the cars though, from what i can see. Now to watch the video and see how my engine should be blown up (joking lol).
Pulled out that pos 5.7 in my challenger and installed a 6.1L based forged and stroked 392 with a 2.9L whipple sc with 17lbs of boost and a 300hp shot of nitrous. She runs really well now. 😂
I added a magic bottle because of a minor valve cover leak, thick as molasses. Bardahl stop leak. Lifters are loud with it at hot idle. This engine likes to run on the thin 5w20, low oil pressure at idle is the issue with them IMO. Have a valve cover gasket in the garage have to get around to putting it on.
By the way I bought this truck brand new in 2005 it had 1 mile on it it’s always had the hemi Tick first oil change was at 1200 miles I’m a little overkill I’ve used nothing but mobile one and then I put in a Lucas synthetic stabilizer every oil change I have never used the recommended 5-20 weight I’ve always used 5-30 I’ve always used the regular Champion Spark Plug I’m getting ready to put a new set in and I bought platinum champions I’ve been a mechanic for over 30 years I get 18 miles to the gallon highway with a 305 tire that’s a 33 I’m pretty impressed
I am building a 368 stroker with a Scat rotating assembly and a mild comp cam for low end torque to replace the 4.7l in my 2004 Ram. Also swapping in a Tremec TR4050 5 speed manual to replace the OEM NV3500 manual
Going on 210,000 miles on my 5.7 in my ram. Replaced the cam at 100k and turned mds off at 130. Still going strong, oil change every 5k, bout every 10 weeks or so doing 500 miles a week. Oh and 1 broke manifold bolt, the rest got studs now instead
17:21 I think a regular cab Dakota RT would fit the bill of an affordable Mopar thats worthy of this engine swap. Maybe get a 4WD/ AWD model done in the spirit of the GMC Syclone since traction will be a major issue.
We put a 4lt 6 cylinder engine into a EL panel van for piloting wide loads met the bloke 2 year's later he had done 1million Km and still doing inexcess of 160km/h to pass the truck's without a problem, all the best to yous and your loved ones
I had a 2010 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi. It was a generally a good engine for me - lots of highway use which limited the amount of MDS time on the engine. The problem I had with mine was its tendency to snap the exhaust manifold bolts. I was on the second set of bolts on one head, and on the third set on the other. This also resulted in a replaced head on one bank since they couldn't get the snapped bolt ends out of the head. This problem with snapped bolts led to blown exhaust manifold gaskets which sounded like a kind of "Hemi tick"...
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What should we do with this 5.7 HEMI?
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Drop it in a Dodge Conquest or 1st Gen Challenger
Put it in a fox body or a camaro to piss everyone off...
should put a 5.7 in a geo metro to rival stefan’s srt 4 midget
id throw it in a rotted out 3rd gen dodge truck #sleeper
Hello Guys. The Chrysler Wagon you mentioned. What if, instead of a 4 door, it was a 2 door? Little choppy choppy squishy squishy?
Think, original mad max, his family wagon.
But with zoomies lol.
I had a Ford with the 4.9L inline 6, I was always told it was unkillable and I never had an issue. I would love to see an episode on that engine!
Grandpa had 3 trucks with those he loved em. Junkyard digs started one and was surprised it ran on 20 year old gas.
Slow as fuck though.
@@adrianspeeder somehow gets 16mpg in a 3/4 ton though!
I had one in a mud truck with 425000 miles on it. ran it in the ketchup all day at mud bog. Overheating all of the last half of the day, with 4 inches of mud covering whole motor. And I sold it months later. To a guy in town it's still alive I see him all the time in it still.....That was 12 years ago.
I want a 4.9l 300 straight 6 lots of torque in those lil motors. I currently have 3 88xl f250 twin i beam 460 89xlt lariat f150 351w 4x4 90xlt lariat twin i beam 460 full time locked rear end on 285's.
Its always a treat when you have Scott on the channel. Its like taking a class on engines. The internet is full of people who "know" about engines. Its great to hear someone who ACTUALLY knows!
Clicked on the video, and was going to check the comments to see what happened to Scott.
I was surprised but happy to see him back! Him and Rich have good on screen chemistry, and you can tell from his work he's a master at what he does.
It's got a cop motor, a 345 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspensions, cop shocks. It's a model before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@walterpchrysler9446 Fix the cigarette lighter.
A 345 cant touch the real 440 cubic inch plant. That chase scene under the EL where it was going 120+ was real time..in a 4400 pound land barge They could max at 142 mph..A true mission from God
@@netrioter a 1969 or 1970 Polara or Fury could do 142mph, not an 8.2:1 compression 440 73 Monaco, it was reading 126 on the speedo on the film, that's what they ran, odds are that a 400 car with the same heads, cam, carb and gearing would have a higher top end because it would be able to rev a few more rpms after the 440 is out of breath.
“We’ve thrown a rod”...... “is that serious”?
I've seen a few with broken valve springs, but overall they seem like pretty reliable engines.
Agreed. Got a 5.7 in My 14' Charger, and have had no mechanical issues. 100,000 on it, and I change the oil regularly, and don't let it idle for long periods of time.
No lol
@@rock-uu7qr yes
The non mds hemi at least you can run the exhaust valve springs from the 6.1 as an upgrade. I swapped all mine to 6.1 exhaust springs when i cammed my 05. 16 were under 100 if i recall, but that was about 10 years ago.
First-gen hemi in a 07 Grand Cherokee with 235K. I think the tranny will give up the ghost long before the engine does.
I'm a fan, on my 3rd one. 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee right at 100,000 miles. Wife drives a 2008 Aspen with 230,000 miles & I had an 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 280,000 still ran great
Hi I also have a 2013 Grand just hit 133K. It started to idle funny and I was thinking it wiped a cam lobe. But no it was just a broken EVAP valve on the charcoal canister causing a vacuum leak! I even sent the oil out with 8000 miles on it, and they said it looked great. Been doing 10,000 mile intervals with 5w20 Castrol edge since new (always added 1 quart at 5000), and it looked clean when I did the intake and valve cover gaskets on it at about 100K. Have just loved every minute with this Jeep, great size, great 4x4 system and great power, for not a lot of money. What an improvement over the 3rd generation. What's crazy too is that the oil looks cleaner draining out of this engine with 10,000 miles, then it does coming out of my well maintained 4.0L six with 3,000 miles.
I also recognized your name, pretty much anytime Im looking for a video on a vintage car, you have one. Unbelievable how many you have made!
as someone who's blown up a 5.7. the proper oil, not just the weight, but the specs, and changing it at regular intervals is a huge part of keeping these running. I was lazy and used cheap oil that didn't have the proper certifications and it bit me in the ass.
No way!! using the right oil in my car will save it from blowing up?! who would've thought... 🤔
That will blow anything up. The manufacturer gives you oil specs for a reason. Using the wrong oil is never good 😅
The original tick is from the valve train - which chrysler did try to tighten the tolerances from what I was told in training, but they started having issues with too tight causing excess wear.
The trucks mainly have issues with 5 of the exhaust manifold studs breaking off, the right rear 2 first, then the left rear 2 all of which are from the weight of the exhaust hanging off the rear (GM trucks do the exact same thing) and the 5th bolt that breaks is the left front on the versions that use that to hold the dipstick tube.
The lifters rarely have an issue with the MDS. Been working as engine tech at a chrysler dealership since 2006 and can only remember 1 time the lifter failed due to MDS. Most common is the roller or the plastic retainer for the lifter, which I have seen the exact same issue with LS as the lifter design is very similar with the plastic tray and the roller lifter.
dodge always lie they dont want to fix the problem because it causes us to buy again damm crooked schemes. i,m pissed right now mines damage the cam at only 160 kilometers insane and i always baby it like my older dodges.
Mopars hold the main caps in place with noches not bolts. It is just as strong if not stronger than 6 bolt mains
I’ve got a 04 5.7 with 454k on it still going strong no leaks and only been thru water pumps an one valve spring
My daily for 2 years was a 2011 2500 with a 5.7. Low miles, got it at 48k switched to a Cummins at 70k. My only problem was exhaust manifold bolts breaking. Always around #7. I towed a 10k trailer with a 6850 lb roller all the time.
I was a Chrysler tech for a few years and I extracted more broken exhaust manifold bolts than I can count
From what I've heard it's best to resurface your manifolds
@@moparjr89 it’s best to get shorty or long tube/srt headers when addressing that. The issue is how much heat those thick ass manifolds hold. They warp a touch and break the bolt.
@@talkingprimate3521 that’s exactly what I’ve heard from a few techs. I changed the manifold out the first time, didn’t matter one bit. There is a lot of heat meeting up right at the junction of the last port and the outlet.
Bet you're loving that fuel mileage increase with the Cummins vs the Hemi when towing that 10k!
You should put that 5.7 into a K-car. You know, a nice reliant automobile.
...lol, gold!...
Lol.
I own a 2011 ram with the 5.7. It snapped all but 3 exhaust manifold bolts (combined both sides) at 47,000 miles. Threw new headers on and it's been extremely reliable since.
Hi - Did you have the tick and if so is it gone now*
@@dimensionexo. Yes, I got the truck with 40,000 on it and from the moment I got it, I noticed a slight ticking noise (most noticeable from the wheelwell) that was louder than I was used to engines ticking. In the next 7,000 miles, it slightly got worse until one week I started it up and it sounded like someone was rapping the block with a hammer once per rpm. Accelerating was pretty scary. Drove it like that for 500, then threw some Amazon shortie headers on it and during the process found almost all of my exhaust manifold bolts had snapped off within the head. Absolutely miserable job on the 2011 as there's no space to work in or maneuver the headers. After installing the headers, the tick I had is completely gone.
@@nathanielheidemann3112 Thanks a lot*
I've got a 03 1500 5.7 Hemi that has 307,000 miles on it and it runs great love this motor.
I got the year earlier model minus the hemi of course lol
Former mopar tech here, the gen 3 hemi engines in the later trucks 2009+ have 6 bolt mains. The 6.4, 6.1, 6.2 also have piston cooling jets, 5.7 does not
I build these engines everyday and they are all 4 bolt mains.
I dont know about that.. my 2011 has 4
he's right haha the extensions lower the "impact" an impact can have on a bolt so youll be there longer
Yep, check out torque test channel. They graphed it on a dyno. They also tested swivels and cold batteries. All of these things hurt power.
But it does not reduce overall torque!
There's more slop introduced from the extra joint, and more loss from getting the additional mass of the extension moving... so yeah, it makes sense.
5.7 Hemi: Do an oil change every 5k or less. Never sit idle, treat it like a race engine and turn it off. Deactivated the "cylinder deactivation" every time you drive by locking out the gears in 8th. Always let it warm up untill you no longer hear the lifters ticking. If ticking continues once the temp is up, see a mech. Could be lifters or manifold.
The banter is the best part! Entertaining and informative as always guys!
I had an 05 ram with a non mds 5.7 hemi in it. Loved that engine. I put a 6.1 cam and push rods / valve springs in. 250 wet shot of nitrous. The truck ripped. Word of caution though for anyone new to power adders; the ring gaps on them stock are tight. If your gonna run power adders its best to open em up. Or just go easy on the boost / nitrous.
I have had two of the newer 5.7 hemi engines. As of right now I own a 6.4 hemi in a 2016 powerwagon. It has the typical tick. But I noticed that also will change based on oil type and when I change the oil and the type of gasoline I use. My truck only idles when warming up or sitting at the stop light. Oil changes are key to healthy engine life.
I’m on my 4th Ram with a 5.7 right now. I’m not easy on my stuff i never keep any of my vehicles much past 200,000 kms but for the most part they’ve been great. My last one chewed up the cam because the rollers on the lifters seized up in #1 cylinder, it developed a misfire issue from the cam lobes being flat. The steel from that went through the engine it scored all the bearings and caused low oil pressure. I replace the hemi with a used low mileage one and got rid of the MDS before I installed it and it was the best running one of them all.
Incredible rod bearing! I bought a new Detroit Diesel 8V92TTA powered semi in 1979. I took it to the DD shop in Memphis, TN with 675k miles for rod and main replacement as a preventative. All bearings looked as good as that rod bearing off #6 so much so that DD asked the shop to send them in to their lab for analysis. I never heard back but I must say, that was absolutely the best engine I ever owned and I have owned a bunch!
I did 225,000 miles in my 6.1 srt8 300c touring (estate car) with no engine failures. Oil changed every 7,000 miles engine was great. Just thought id share as fact are better than beer talk.
I love that you did a 3rd gen hemi and yeah my own experience is from owning my 13 Charger R/T with 210,000 KMs or 130K miles the ONLY issue ive run into with the car has been the MDS system its caused a half dozen misfires plus 2 engine shutdowns at highway speeds other than that zero issues not even electrical issues. I want to throw a whipple supercharger on it and make 550HP
What did you do to “fix” or deal with the MDS issue?
@@Chef_PC Z automotive makes a OBDII dongle for Mopar vehicles to unlock features you wouldn't normally have access to mainly the SRT pages for V6 or 5.7 cars but mainly it allows you to disable the MDS system as far as I know it's the better way to do it the extras being a decent selling point on top of it
Nice take down guys, my 5.7 has 230 k on her and she's still running like brand new, it was nice seeing the inerds of my motor.
Love a "everything wrong with a 5.7 iForce engine" video.
it'd be pretty short in all fairness
@@jaubuchon28 cam tower leak, air injection pump failure, timing chain failure, quite a few early water pump failures, and the stupid oil filter housing lol
@@dakotahowe5250 oh Lord I forgot about the oil housings
When i worked at my local shop in high school (just did oil changes and tires) we had a regular customer come in with his beat to hell ram 2500 with a 5.7. only ever had to do regular maintenance. last time i saw it it came in for an oil chance at 370,000 miles. It def had the lifter tick tho.
Def think you should build that 5.7 you have and put it in a Dodge Magnum wagon and mate it to a 6 speed manual. would be a sick wagon haha, but i'm biased as i always wanted an SRT Magnum
Would love to see a video on the dodge V10 gas engine
Yes please, I've got a 99 v10 2500 that's been really good to me.
@@yurhi - it's gotta be better than the 3 valve V10 in my F450 work bucket truck which had to be replaced at 45,000 miles! We have tons of idle time hours so they blamed it on that, haha.
@cali gdp So far 140k with no problems just change the fluid and adjust the shift cable occasionally. Hopefully it keeps going another 100k
I had a ram v10 for many years. It was the only vehicle I have ever owned that did not break down. But it was a gas hog so I sold it and bought a 12 valve. Have not looked back.
The one failure I didn't hear you mention was the valve seats. The pre-eagle 5.7 doesn't have the issues with the 'Hemi tick' like the eagle version. However, if they overheat the aluminum heads are bad to drop the steel valve seats and this will destroy the entire engine. So it is important to take care of the cooling system on these.
I 2nd this. Had an 05 magnum with the 5.7 and it dropped the #6 intake valve into the cylinder out of nowhere one day when I started it after getting groceries. The quick heat cycles really killed those due to the different expansion rates of the metal.
Valve seats failed on early Eagles, too, along with timing chains and tensioners.
Lifters were an issue on all 3G Hemi V8s. MDS, Non-MDS, cars, and pickups alike. They all had failures.
The 318 and 360 Magnums were far more durable.
Yep 2 different motors 2 different issues
Someone give this man a milwaukee care package , that mastercraft impact is unacceptable 🤣🤣
As a Mopar guy, thank you for not tearing the hemi to pieces and saying how terrible it is... I had a 1958 392 hemi that was built, forget the specs, but it was an amazing sounding and torque motor. As for what to put the hemi in, here are a few ideas from price (cheap to pricey): 2nd gen standard cab short box dakota with a 5 speed (and yes it will bolt right up to a hemi, 1st Gen durango and do a dakota 5 speed swap it, had a 5.9 rt awd durango that I was hoping the trans would go in just so I would have the excuse to swap, 1st Gen dodge pickup d150 (82 to 92), lastly unobtainium no rotted ramcharger/trail duster. If you were to go sporty car, I'd say any 80s/90s import. Waiting for the hemi rebuild series, as I've got 2 5.7s first is going in a 1974 ramcharger and another that is going in a 1970 dodge powerwagon.
As I'm working on my cj7, putting a hemi in a cj, yj or JK would just be as fun
@@just_a_guy_doing v8 is overkill in those. i6 or v6 is perfect
I see most engine failures due to lack of oil changes. It's even more important to keep the newer engines with fresh oil. I still change my oil every 5000km. Have a 1998 f150 with a 4.6L and have not gone into the engine at 500000km. I also own a 2019 chev 1500 and still change eng oil at 5000km. Would be cool to see that hemi in an old dodge truck. Thanks gor the entertainment
I'd second putting it an old Dodge pickup. Find a '60s Sweptline 2WD, throw the 5.7 and a decent manual transmission in it. Fun parts hauler.
the 4.6 is a bulletproof motor as well.
Yeah, it blows my mind that car manufacturers are saying to change it 10K...that's crazy
@@kellsAC1 They can say it's a lower cost of maintenance over the life of the vehicle. And yes manufacturing and machining processes are more advanced now, but a 7500 or 10k mile oil change is crazy imo. The products these days are just considered throw away products.
@@4thgradedropout980 absolutely Brent
My 07 Dodge had a rear main oil leak and I found out when I did an oil change. Only 1 quart out of the sump but I never lost oil pressure or had any issues. Replaced the rear main, filled with fresh oil and thrashed on it some more. I eventually sold it when I upgraded trucks but never had any engine issues at all. It's one heck of a motor and I was never easy on it. Had to replace the rear suspension because I pulled trailers that were heavier than what it was rated for, but the motor never struggled with any of it.
Everything I have read and heard is the 5.7 if ever overheated drops valve seats and destroys the engine. All the hot rod guys say don't re-use the stock heads and put Edelbrock heads on them for security. This seems to be the end of life criteria for most 5.7's. I understand the 6.4 cylinder head doesn't have the same issue.
03-08 drop valve seats, 09+ eat up camshafts when the lifters lock up. That’s the only real issues I see with them. I reuse head bolts with cam and lifter jobs
It’s true! I had a 300C and it dropped the valve seats. Later, had a Jeep GC and it also dropped valve seats. At least the Jeep went 220 miles before imploding.
Iv got an 06 with 450k no broken manifold bolts and the eagle drops valve seats more than the previous model
@@adamtacheira5323 noooo way bull shit dude I’ve owned hemis and put over 500,000 miles in them with no issues
@Jr Jr Ive heard that too, my hemi-sensei friend in the gen3 hemi racing world built a friend's magnum that has been running 9lbs on a procharger for years and still going strong. It's the piston ring placement on the pistons that are the biggest issue Ive seen. They do make boost specific pistons aftermarket for these engines though.
I have a Ram 1500 (2004) with the 5.7. Decent truck. I’ll need to fix all the flapper doors in the heat/air system. That’s the worst of it. The engine is solid after 140K miles. Good motor, as far as I’m concerned. 👍
i would love to see you do an Everything Wrong With, some of the smaller Japanese diesel truck engines, like the hilux and the l200
Transplant recipient suggestions:
1. a 1980s Fifth Avenue Grandpa-mobile
2. a Dakota pickup
3. a Dodge/Ram van painted up as a Possum Van replica
Can’t believe how clean the heads are with that kind of mileage!
its crazy. My 2011 5.7 with 212k having ran royal purple 5w20 the past few years looked absolutely spotless inside zero sludge whatsoever, zero debris, nothing. I wouldnt of believed it had I not seen it myself. Mine was a hard driven copcar so it saw all 4 seasons, my manifold bolts are testament to that. Fortunately bolt extraction is a common task for me but pro tip don't try and put headers on a car with rusty header bolts, if you snap a header bolt on a car with this engine you have to pull the head.
Are you being sarcastic? You call that clean?! I'd be embarrassed if that were my engine. Obviously a very poorly maintained/abused engine. Why would they choose to tear down/critique an abused engine for this video?
@@budlanctot3060 I think they intentionally picked a high mileage engine more than anything, that way any potential wear (like those wear marks on the lifters) would be more easily shown. Also shows just how reliable these engines can be, almost 500k kms and filthy inside but still made it there. Not bad I must say. - A Chevy guy
Dropped valve seats were a common issue in the 03-04 engines with a fix in the 05's and onward that dramatically reduced the issue. Had a 04 Durango with the 5.7 in it, always ran Mobil 1, never had any overheating issues or anything else, drove home from work on a Friday in late November, went to start it on Sunday, immediate clatter like mad and then a bang. Dropped the valve seat which kept the valve stuck open, piston hit it, snapped the rod which are cast. Looked it up online and found it was a common failure at the time. Vehicle had 115,000 miles on it and was about 5 years old. Got an 05 engine from a Ram truck with 26k on it, had the dealer swap it and I put 75k on it before I sold it to a friend of mine that's still driving it now and he's put about another 75k on that engine with no issues. They did have swap the oil pan as the pan for the Durango is a different shape than it is for the Ram truck. Cost about $4k for the swap including the motor from a pull it yard.
was this really an "everything wrong with" or just a tear down on this specific engine?
Yes only real issue gen3 hemis have is lifter failure otherwise they are solid engines
@@moparjr89 even then, like they said, good regular maintenance / oil changes (with the right oil) and the lifter problem only really manifests with a lot of idle time (mostly from what I've seen). I love my 5.7, I just don't let it idle (with gas as high as it is that's a no brainer anyways)
@@moparjr89 they’re garbage engines. Everyone I’ve seen at the junkyard had chewed up pistons on one side. After 8 years of searching I decided to just ls swap my ram. Impossible to find a used hemi at a self service junkyard.
@@MrPland1992 so the junkyard engines are junk?
@@tacticalultimatum usually no. Mostly clean wholesale vehicles. Whose gonna want a 2001 tahoe with 205k from a new car dealership? They end up in the scrap yard.
Oil changes on the 5.7 and other hemis are a complete must. I also run a blend of zddp additive every oil change. Personally I use Royal Purple but many people like Schaefer's. Whatever you use develop a habit of changing the oil at less intervals. Personally I pick 3500 miles. All good so far. 5 years of ownership and I've only changed One sensor
Ever since I got my first 2003 5.7 Hemi I have enjoyed it. I have never had an easier time swapping an engine before and they are super easy to work on. They rev to the moon and back, and you can lean on them really hard if you need to all the way up to 5,500 RPM and hold it there for a while it love's it. That thing is fun and super reliable. I have been a Mechanic for 20 year's and I cannot believe it took me this long to get a Hemi. I have a Ford, Chevy. And now a Dodge...Still a Ford guy though.
Be cool to hemi swap a 4x4 amc eagle put a 03 or 04 hemi in it but good luck nowadays find an amc eagle that someone doesn't want arm an leg for or pile of rust
I'm no authority on these engines or on the net, but I just changed my 09 HEMI plugs with fine wire iridiums, and i think it lights off faster, and runs smoother, so far anyway.
I think that Hemi needs a home under the hood of a 1930s to 1940s Dodge or Fargo pickup.
Plz do the 4.7 and 3.7 dodge has there so many out there it’s unbelievable
I would love to see a video on any of the magnum series engines. The 3.9, 5.2/.9 and the mighty 8.0 all of those engines seem to be pretty reliable too
And far obsolete, the newer engines are going to be much more durable due to better materials, tighter tolerances and computer engines management which runs the engine in the optimal range.
@@mikeshultz1007 nobody cares what you think
Same. These are what I run. I've pulled a few 360s from the salvage yard. I did a total gasket job, oil pump, and timing chain and dropped it right in. No problems.
All have well over 200k on them and still going strong.
Cracked heads and bad mpg on the 5.2/.9, but solid otherwise.
I have a 2008 2500 with a 5.7 hemi and 270k original miles. On the engine transmission and rear end. I’ve been threw 3 AC compressors 1 master cylinder for my brakes and countless sets of brake pads and 1 brake caliper oh I forgot 1 water pump
Nice video. You neglected to mention the early ones dropped valve seats.
Mostly because of an overheating event, which doesn't totally absolve Chrysler of responsibility for insufficient press fit in the early heads.
That flat lifer angle is what is known as a raised cam. Allows those engines to rev really well.
Alot of people don't realize this engine has two spark plugs per cylinder haha.. and yeah oem plugs are best. But with mopar oem parts are usually the better option :)
Agreed. My 14' R/T came with NGK plugs from the factory, so as baffled as I was they weren't Mopar plugs, I replaced them with the same NGK Iriduim plugs they came with. No issues at all since.
Oh come on with that last second diss ! You were doing so well all throughout the video !!
- 5.7 Magnum owners everywhere
(Loved the video, always interesting to see a high-mileage unit get torn apart to see the wear !)
I'd put it in an older Dodge pickup D-150/250 that was originally a gasser as they're pretty easy to find for cheap. Make a cool shop truck with some get up and go. Plus Holley has made all the brackets to get one of these Hemi's to fit into that platform. Was cool to learn about the cross hatch stuff. Very good knowledge to hang onto.
For 5.7 Hemi replacing the oil pump from the hell cat helps with flooding the cam and lifters with oil
You should do an everything wrong with a 6.4L powerstroke Diesel engine
Heres a spoiler, it's Everything.
Hasn't he?
@@gordonborsboom7460 just the 6.0 I think.
That'd be a pretty long video.
He could do a quick short about everything that's right with it though.
@@gunners4129 what is right with a 6.4L powerstroke
We have a gen 2 392 which is a 6.2 liter hemi in our 2013 challenger drag car and it runs low 10's screaming out the back end of the track . Even that 5.7 hemi is a good motor of you take care of it. My friend owns the car and he has a ton of money tied up in the just the motor . Thats not including what he has in the car. The motor is all stock minus a high duration cam and it has 650 hp at the flywheel
The lifters are the last thing to get oil in a hemi, oil travel path from filter to mains, camshaft, up through the cylinder head into the rocker shaft assemblies. DOWN through the pushrods into the lifters. Former Chrysler level 3 tech. Chrysler has a procedure for the dreaded lifter tick(if the lifter is damaged then this procedure WILL NOT WORK) with engine at operating temperature, rev the engine between 2500-3000 rpms for 20 minutes in park. Purges the air out of the lifters. The angle and the poor oiling of the lifters are the hemis Achilles heel. Chrysler says it's due to prolonged oil changes. Specifically in fleet vehicles that idle. Oil changes need to go by engine hrs not mileage.
NO. I refer you to page #69, Larry Shepard's book, NewHemi Engines. There is a very large schematic diagram of the oiling circuit. PRIMARILY oiling to the lifter bodies is from the two large oil galleries. The normal(for v-8's for the last 50yrs, at least) Chrysler oil circuitry for the upper valve train exists via the passages in the rocker stands, rocker shafts, rockers. The only slight difference is the hollow pushrods, like they used in the small block Magnums(& 3rd gen Hemis) from '89 on.
@@budlanctot3060 I can only tell you what I was taught directly from Chrysler. I also have oil schematics directly from Chrysler illustrating that those oil galleries feed the camshaft and go up through the head. So either Larry is wrong or Chrysler is. And I can believe either could be. I've seen enough mistakes from Chrysler 😂. I guess the only real way to tell is looking at the lifter bores and see where the oil galleries are. Lifter issues didn't become apparent until 2009 with the variable valve timing. MDS was introduced in 2006 I believe? But remember oil is used to turn the MDS on and off. So if oil flow to the lifter bores was constant then the MDS would be on all the time. So no... I do believe Larry is wrong. Those oil galleries supply oil to the MDS solenoids. The lifters themselves receive oil from the pushrods.
I've heard people say if your hemi spends alot of time idling that you should keep track of the hours not miles to determine when to change your oil and that will keep your cam from failing.
Love my 5.7 hemi... just don't like changing 16 spark plugs every 30k miles (per owners manual)...
I think you can put in the Iridium spark plugs that the newer ones have, A friend did it in his 2011 and it worked fine. My 2015 have 100.000 miles intervals (Iridium)
Stick to copper the Hemi doesn't like iridium plugs they even say it in the video
@@donaldliverance2597 yes!! And the magnum 4.7 takes copper as well
@@donaldliverance2597 my 2011 5.7 runs bosch double iridium and the throttle snaps like a 2stroke. That being said maybe coppers would run better im not sure.
Really, I thought changing the plugs not that bad, at least on a car it wasn't bad. I don't know about a truck. I found it helps to have the correct length magnetic spark plug socket & integral wobble extension.
I have a 2011 ram 1500 5.7. My cam and lifters failed at 80,000 miles .When I was in the dealership, they said this is a common problem.
I had a 2004 Durango with the 5.7 HEMI that had the hydrolock at about 75K kms. It thru a rod out the side of the block in my driveway on start up one morning. I understand that the plastic intake is the problem letting water in. I'll be interested in your thoughts on that...
Thanks boys. Happy Easter!
Cool to learn it here after I just personally experienced it that still seeing the crosshatch on a cylinder doesn't count if it's shiny.
Happened to witness it on nikacyl and iron 2 stroke cylinders doing rebuilds over the winter
YES YES YES SUNDAY MORNING DEBOSS!!!! Thanks Rich and Aaron for doing what you guys do!!! I like it right away as I've have watched EVERY SINGLE VIDEO you guys have put out and there isn't one I didn't like at least one thing one them!!!! Anyway Good Morning from Vancouver Island BC Canada 🇨🇦❤️❤️🇨🇦
No no no,, its sunday afternoon! 😄🇸🇪
@@coldhillgarage LOL not on the West Coast my friend. Only 9:48am
In sweden its sunday 7:48 pm 😃
@@coldhillgarage damn man sorry to hear that. That means you weekend is almost over!!!
I have a 04 Hemi in my truck that might be a Dodge. After 15 years the electronics start to crap the bed. That is also in the rust belt and I tried to keep it sprayed off in the winter and the power steering leak helped stop rust.
I've got a 2015 Ram 1500 I bought new. I've been across the Rocky's twice and up the Coq multiple times towing my travel trailer. Truck has been great, lots of power great ride. Only issues I've had had been the exhaust bolts. I'm thinking of switching to shorty headers to see if that helps.
Bro. They’re the worst. Makes me sad. Changed mine three times now.
three times? Are your engine mounts bad or manifolds warped?
Manifolds could be doing warped. Most shops replace the bolts without checking to see if the manifolds are warped. I've been told that aftermarket headers have more material and resist warping and therefore the bolts don't snap.
Really great video Rich. Ive been elbow deep in these engines day and night the past couple years, What if you built a street-legal stockcar with this engine? For a few grand you could get a chassis and body to splice as others have done. Make it a forged high revving stroker with a meaty cam, the Comp HRT stage 3 sounds great for an out of the box option. More info on that on my channel.
As for lifters, they were really bad 2011 and got better after. 03-05 hemis were bad for dropping valve seals and having timing chain issues. Being that you have the first line of 3rd gen Hemi... I suggest upgrading your timing chain to the heavy duty 6.1 hemi timing chain. You can also use a 6.1 hemi crank as they are forged version of the 5.7. These parts are not the same on the later 2009+ Eagle Hemi's.
Your header bolts will put up a fight, being that this is an old and well ran engine those bolts are likely rusty little sticks ready to snap, about 1/5 of my oem exhaust manifold bolts snapped on removal (godhelp anyone with an old rusty hemi in a car trying to install headers- spoiler: head removal). Exhaust manifold bolts are m8x1.25, stage8 has a great kit for gen3 hemi header bolts. Also ONLY USE OEM EXHAUST GASKETS ON THESE. All other exhaust manifold gaskets are known to fail especially the RemFlex gaskets. Just get OEM type and save yourself the headache. Also the connecting rod bolts on these are TTY so keep that in mind, just the same as head bolts. ARP makes a headSTUD kit for these engines but I haven't seen a headbolt kit, I did all my work in the car so I just got MAHLE for everything.
These engines also have a wierd habit of throwing the inner ring off the balancer as they get old and crusty (mine did) I upgraded to an overly expensive 6% OD ATI superdamper which still uses stock belt size, so i could tell people I had a NHRA certified $500 pulley. It comes with black oxide bolts so RIP if your rig isn't garage kept(like me. I cry inside every time I see my damper getting rusty) Reccomend spraying fluidfilm in your damper and wiping the excess if you go that route. Its sin to have a rusty superdamper. Like it isn't a common thing to happen, losing part of the dampener, but Ive seen it happen a few times which is wierd enough to mention
I have one super super super handy trick to these engines when installed in cars. The valve cover bolts are a BIIITCH to remove if you don't have the Titan brand 1/4" micro swivel ratchet from princess auto SKU 8947145. Stock valve cover bolts are 8mm head, you can upgrade them to m6x1x25mm stainless steel bolts and re use the rubbers but you have to do a little stack of washers on top.
Oilpan: if your using the 5speed, and your application permits, get an aluminum oilpan from a car as the oilpan is a gusseted design liek the old chrysler smallblocks to provide more support between the engine and transmission, it uses the same trans botl pattern as the old chrysler smallblocks too from what I recall. Lots of drag racers prefer the aluminum car oilpans for this reason, one of my speedshop's race teams were breaking belhousings every 10 or so passes until they switched back to the car oilpans. Oilpan, Valve covers, coilpacks, front fenders, and possibly intake manifold I forget, are m6x1x25mm machine screws, fastenal has em in grade 10.9 with ecoguard part number 11552483 and matching washers 11552364.
Some neat fun trivia about my own experience. Rebuilt a clapped out ex cop car that had the rust real bad(it was my quarantine project, I didnt say it made any financial sense), had nothing but bad luck with it, first I was one of the jackstand recall statistics, then going to my last carshow of the year a big ass rock was dropped on a bridge under construction, took out the oilpan and my skidplate. Right now it's on jackstands(custom heavy duty fabricated stands not storebought, fool me once as they say) soon to rebuild the bottom end. Gotta drop the cradle to get the oilpan off on Chargers. And yes, new skidplate is 1/4" AR400. I'll be putting spacer pucks ontop of my struts to make up for the height. When the oilpan got taken out it was like... 1 or maybe 2km until we could safely stop as it was a construction zone. Im not saying ive had nightmares about the state of my crank and bearings but Im also not saying Ive not. The info about the aluminum bearings galling with lack of oil sure worries me. I was already planning on getting some ACL racing bearings so, I guess worries are not un-founded at least.
That's everything I can think of at the moment, I will likely drop more walls of text on your subsequent videos though.
I know there are tons of videos on the Chevrolet small block 350 and Chevrolet LS engines, it would be nice to see a comparison along with the pros and cons of each side by side. Maybe even add a Chevrolet 350 small block made into a 383 small block in that comparison as well.
The worst thing about a 5.7 hemi is the dodge it comes in. Got a 5.7 in a 07 dodge 2500 can’t even get a power steering pump pulley for it
That's how I feel with my 12v in my 93 dodge d350. I feel bad it's in a wire abused burnt g360 truck that it's in.
I loved my 07 2500 5.7. no mds and plenty of power stock with a few easy mods. There's literally ps pulleys alllll over the net if you search for 5 seconds.
@@punkrocker10115 not for the pick ups there isn’t. Can’t even get them from dodge
@@robertquast9684 salvage yards? I know they want price of new these days though.
Go to a Junkyard...
That's how I find all my dodge parts.
Mopar or no car
It is completely overlooked and many will disagree..but this is not a 3rd gen..it's 4th gen..the 3rd gen is the 4.7 it is a overhead cam hemi..just like the ford S.O.H.C 427 the spark plugs go through the top of the cylinder head..because the cam is in the center of the head..The HO engine was a Grand Cherokee exclusive for the 2002-2004 and boy it's got some real good go fast goodies and the bottom end is like some racers wet dream starting with the forged steel crank..then in 2008 they revamped the 4.7 to get 305 hp out of 285 ci..now that in anybody's book is impressive !
Mid to late 60’s Dart Hemi clone 😌 maybe an early 70’s Plymouth satellite wagon 😎maybe late 60’s cornet wagon. Ok I’m a wagon guy 😐
Maybe a dodge van look up Dajiban 😎
A "Lil Red Express" Tribute truck! butt, 4x4! and big uhm... stacks... dang they had those back then? whoa...
...
I guess guys are going to Hellcat oil pumps to boost low rpm oil pressure to help stop lifter failure!
I've heard about that too. There's a guy in town with a retired cop charger. He went with a hellcat pump after replacing the cams and lifter. The lobe was beaten flat, Completely round. He kept the cam and he had it with him at the meet. It was amazing to see a cam like that in person
I love your "everything wrong with" series of videos. I'd like to see some more classic engines like the GM 350 or the ford 300 i6 or even mildly modern like the jeep 4L or ford 2.3
You're gonna be hard fought to find weak points in a 350 or a 300. A 4.0 tho I know those like to eat lifter if you bounce the limiter on one that isn't marked as an H.O. My buddy's gone through 7 engines all that same way
I think there's a guy on TH-cam that sort of fixed the annoying Hemi "tick" by swapping out the oil pump from a 392 or a Hellcat. They're supposed to be a higher volume pump than the 5.7.
"Reignited - Cycle and Automotive" He has an awesome channel and knows what he's talking about!
Yes 5.7 oil pump doesn't have enough pressure
I believe you, but I also want a link please.
@@kingofthepod5169 Here you go.👇
th-cam.com/video/cL3xNoKs9E4/w-d-xo.html
Half a million kilometres and it comes out that clean! Engineered to perfection, unleash the fury!!
I'd love to see a video done on the bmw m50 motor, as an owner of one I'd love to hear your opinion on it if you can find one
96 chevy s10 with the 5 speed transmission and the 4.3l v6 vortex
M52 or an m60 would be nice too. Typical faults are known but you rarely see quality a full-teardowns of stock motors
@@koreywilliams4570 I had a 95 Sonoma with the 4.3 vortec and the t5 manual, sadly sold it when I bought my bmw but I found a pretty mint 1994 s10 with the same motor and trans as my old Sonoma
Yes, put it in a Magnum.
Placed in the back over the rear axle. With a transfer case connected to a axle that has a pinion pointing to the rear.
ohh dude yes a Hemi Under Glass tribute
Hey Rich, how about stuffing that in an old plymouth volare sleeper? I used to have one that i put a set of 340 six pack heads on a 318, changed the cam and used a police interceptor manifold on so i could run more than a 2 bbl on it. the hemi in there would be wierd.
I had my hemi blow a head gasket this spring at 225,000kms, did it in truck, changed plugs too and then had to change out two MDS solenoids.
A huge detail everyone forgets things are made to break these days so you have to buy more an spend money lol. It's all made to break
Yep made so that you need to buy one every five years.
Just had to replace the camshaft & lifters on my 2011 Grand Cherokee Hemi. Mileage was 129,4xx. Sounded fine and still had plenty of power before the terrible misfire started on a Friday morning on my way into work. Let me tell you, I couldn't believe the carnage done to the camshaft.
The hemi suffers from oil starvation because the oil pump needs to be a high volume oil pump not a high pressure pump
Hellcat oil pump goes right in a 5.7 and has much more volume at idle.
Had a 03' 2500 around the shop for a year ,dropped valve seat. Thought it would be an easy find with cop cars ,jeeps ,and 300's .Looked for a used engine,all the junkyards laughed and said good luck. In the south where rust isn't so much of an issue they get used up.Finally gave up and parted the truck. Still came out on the truck but wouldn't buy one again.
My buddy was the guy in the magnum wagon commercial! The guy that was driving the wagon! Can’t wait too see what this ends up in!
Everything wrong it’s a hemi 😅
Thanks guys I own a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with the 5.7 Hemi, mine runs well 136,000 miles
Me with my 06 Daytona Charger 5.7L Hemi and it being my first car, and daily driver for almost the last 5 years... Lol. I went into it knowing of some of the ''issues'' and just kept them in mind. 6k KMS oil changes with just some decent synthetics from Canadian tire (on sale ofc, anyone buying at regular might as well get Amzoil for the cost). Not an issue, changed out the thermostat, rad hoses as a precaution. Engine wise, its been a beauty, beat on, winter driven (young kid and now young adult, beat the hell out of it) no problems. Overheat it? Probably gonna drop the valve seat. Run low on oil at all for a long time or not faithful in oil changes? Lifters might poop the bed. I control what i feel i can and let the rest take its course. Truck engines got the tick from the manifold bolts which well, isnt desirable. Not on the cars though, from what i can see. Now to watch the video and see how my engine should be blown up (joking lol).
My 06 5.7 Hemi in my Ram 2500 lasted 282k miles before a blown head gasket. Put another rebuilt 5.7 Hemi in the truck and it's running strong.
We could spend weeks in the engine shop talking about engines. I am all for it.
Pulled out that pos 5.7 in my challenger and installed a 6.1L based forged and stroked 392 with a 2.9L whipple sc with 17lbs of boost and a 300hp shot of nitrous. She runs really well now. 😂
I added a magic bottle because of a minor valve cover leak, thick as molasses. Bardahl stop leak. Lifters are loud with it at hot idle. This engine likes to run on the thin 5w20, low oil pressure at idle is the issue with them IMO. Have a valve cover gasket in the garage have to get around to putting it on.
The heads on that particular hemi good for 600 hp so I’ve been told I have that same Hemi in my 05 dodge 1500 and it doesn’t miss a beat 227,000 miles
By the way I bought this truck brand new in 2005 it had 1 mile on it it’s always had the hemi Tick first oil change was at 1200 miles I’m a little overkill I’ve used nothing but mobile one and then I put in a Lucas synthetic stabilizer every oil change I have never used the recommended 5-20 weight I’ve always used 5-30 I’ve always used the regular Champion Spark Plug I’m getting ready to put a new set in and I bought platinum champions I’ve been a mechanic for over 30 years I get 18 miles to the gallon highway with a 305 tire that’s a 33 I’m pretty impressed
I am building a 368 stroker with a Scat rotating assembly and a mild comp cam for low end torque to replace the 4.7l in my 2004 Ram. Also swapping in a Tremec TR4050 5 speed manual to replace the OEM NV3500 manual
Going on 210,000 miles on my 5.7 in my ram. Replaced the cam at 100k and turned mds off at 130. Still going strong, oil change every 5k, bout every 10 weeks or so doing 500 miles a week. Oh and 1 broke manifold bolt, the rest got studs now instead
17:21 I think a regular cab Dakota RT would fit the bill of an affordable Mopar thats worthy of this engine swap. Maybe get a 4WD/ AWD model done in the spirit of the GMC Syclone since traction will be a major issue.
Delete MDS, and slide in 6.1 cam. I ran 15-40w Rotella in mine and was silent. Every oil change it seemed clean!
This shows me the engineering of the LS is just a notch or 2 above the hemi. Thanks Rich...
We put a 4lt 6 cylinder engine into a EL panel van for piloting wide loads met the bloke 2 year's later he had done 1million Km and still doing inexcess of 160km/h to pass the truck's without a problem, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Love these teardowns, they're so educational!
I had a 2010 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi. It was a generally a good engine for me - lots of highway use which limited the amount of MDS time on the engine. The problem I had with mine was its tendency to snap the exhaust manifold bolts. I was on the second set of bolts on one head, and on the third set on the other. This also resulted in a replaced head on one bank since they couldn't get the snapped bolt ends out of the head. This problem with snapped bolts led to blown exhaust manifold gaskets which sounded like a kind of "Hemi tick"...
MDS is used far more on the highway at cruise speeds than in the city mostly accelerating.