Thank you for such a valuable presentation! I was wondering how can we access to the document with recorded crankcase numbers as mentioned in Q&А session at this point. The tip using manometer is awesome!
My mk6 GTI was having a hot start issue where if I shut the hot engine down for more than 15 minutes but it didn’t get cold enough to have the choke engaged it wouldn’t want to restart. It would start for a few seconds then cough and die. I didn’t have any throttle control either. I would have to keep cranking until it would let me use the gas peddle to get it to crank. It started fine when cold. I pulled the intake manifold and had carbon not only on the tops of the valves but the flaps had a lot of carbon. My thoughts were that once it warmed up the carbon became softer and it would run fine but when it started to cool down the carbon on the flaps would cool down and stick not allowing any movement. When cold it had the choke so I didn’t have issues starting cold. I’ve pulled the intake manifold replaced the water pump cleaned the injectors and tops of the valves and put a new intake manifold on. So now just have to change the oil and put fresh coolant and see how she runs. I have to get it smogged this year so I hope all goes well and the hot start issue is solved.
27:20 Isn't it the other way around? The updated PCV runs higher, not lower, crankcase vacuum, right? Higher vacuum signal helps ring seal etc. You are correct the updated PCV is 100 mbar. 100mbar is already pretty high vacuum in the crankcase. Your information and knowledge on this platform are outstanding.
Do you know the normal operating crankcase pressure for the 2008 Audi A3 3.2? I am replacing the PCV/Oil Separator under the valve cover and would like to confirm normal operating pressure following the repair.
I have an Audi A6 C7 3.0 DTI 2011 204 HP . Is it normal to have gas when I open the oil cap? I have an oil leak but i think is the gasket of timing chain (soon have to replace 150 K ml ) . can be problem with Crankcase ventilation ? No warning lights and car running smoot
Great video thank you! Had a quick question if possible to answer. I have the 2.0t CAEB stage 2. I replaced the PCV with a catch can. Is it okay to attach a breather filter on top the catch can? I tried a vacuum test on the dip stick and nothing happened so I unplugged the plug on the manifold and tested it through there and it seemed to work and stayed steady in the green (cheap Harbor Freight tester) so I assume I don’t have a lot of blow by or crank pressure so not sure if a breather is really necessary but heard it’s something some do to avoid pressure and future leaks. I just want to make sure I don’t have to little pressure or to much. I really am looking for any input and help. I’ve looked everywhere. Please and thank you.
so first ,if you have underpressure by lifting the oilcap you normaly have an issue with the PCV hose or diverter valve .so if you got underpressure then you are in trouble .it is okay to attach a breather filter ,here in germany it is forbidden ,cause you let emissions into air ,that only means you have a sober combustion ,cause you not recirculate the blow by .at the end this is much cleaner to the engine (but not to the nature),a reciculation combustion of blow by gases ends up with carbonisaton of your inner engine parts ,so if you spit out the blow by your engine will be much cleaner.you have the lower pcv hoses that goes upwards to the upper crankcase or around the block to the diverter valve .this valves part is to seperate the blow by into 2 products -gases to recirculate ,and oilcondens to sperate,and let rinse to the intercooler pipes (thats why so much people talking about drain their intercoolers) thats why your emissions test would be much soberer than with the recirculation of the old blow by gases and oilfumes.this catchtank it just a trick to not must clean always your intercooler pipes ,easy access to drain it away -nothing more .the breather filter looks nice but in the end you spitt the emissions out ,and that is not filteret,even when filter looks like it does :D when police in germany will see you driving an open crankcase with catchcan and filter ,they will confiscate car and the hole process to get back the car costs more than 4-5 weeks and 5 k.thanks greta .
i have a 2010 a5, been using militec-1 and liqui moly cera tec (alternating between each at every oil change not to be used together), also using liqui moly engine oil flush at each oil change. that and driving gently. so, consuming about 1 qt per 1200 miles.
The cruze is pretty easy, if the orange valve is missing you replace the intake manifold, if the transducer pod on the valve cover is leaking at idle you replace the valve cover, if the check valve in the turbo to intake breather tube is leaking you replace that pipe. Better yet, if you find any one piece bad replace the whole set with an aftermarket improved set from Dorman because otherwise you'll be back in there replacing something in a week. Dorman rarely makes parts that are better than OEM, but this is one of those rare cases where they do.
Great info!! I had a PCV issue on my 2.0 with rough idle before and replaced the pcv last year and all was well. Now I seem to be having another issue. My car is running fine no rough idle drives fine but it's smoking out the exhaust blue smoke when accelerating which suggest oil burning. After diagnosis my mechanic narrowed it do to the PCV because as soon as he unplugged the line from the intake manifold the car stopped smoking. Any idea what part of the PCV failed that's allowing excessive oil through?
did you change the diverter valve as well `with the PCV ??cause the oilbareer goes from lower crankcase to upper crankcase and the oil and gases will be normally seperated by the diverter valve .if the the diverter valve is okay it ends up sperating the oil condensat into the intercooler (which is a sign of a functionally valve),if the inner rubber membrane from diverter valve is failed it does not sperate anymore and soak the hole oildrop/oil condensat into it and burn it again .otherwise the only way to burn more oil is when the midsection of your turbo is failed,espsecially the bearing ,that can cause also oilburn.thats why to change all ,not only the lower PCV hose.diverter valve should be around 30-40 bucks.if its not i recommed do a test with your coolingwater if there measuring emissons within ,not that you where having a slowy failing headgasket .greetz from dortmund.
th-cam.com/video/jcZaenAPFxs/w-d-xo.html i upgraded the PCV on my 2010 A5, but did NOT put in a new shaft seal or bolt, and did not update the computer. however, NO codes. engine runs well, only 60k miles on the car. still uses about 1 qt per 1200 miles, although i am using 30 weight oil. i had used the recommended 40 weight and oil consumption was 1 qt every 2000+ miles, but lost 1 mpg. long term fuel trim under 6%.
commentary was pretty useless. Need-to-know items should have included air direction of the hose system, how to tell when the pancake valve was no longer functioning, partially functioning, stuck completely open, how to test it, etc. ...How much oil in the air from the pancake valve into the Y-pipe can be tolerated... If the pancake valve stays more closed, is this oily air more likely to be burned directly into the manifold, thus saving the turbo's from dealing with it...? Or does it even matter if the turbo's have to deal with it first... If the pancake valve is venting some oil, what is real source of the oily air that produces it, and how to reduce it...or can it actually even be reduced in an older engine..? If it gets to the turbo's...so what happens then? If it accumulates in the pipes to the intercoolers what happens then? If it gets to the pancake valve, it must be at least getting out of the valve cover chamber...but if it's excessive, is it the cause of valve cover gasket oil leaks...? If the pancake valve is open at full boost, then it's doing its job, but if the air coming into the Y-pipe from the pancake valve is more oily, it's going to end up at the turbo's.... Where / why is this excessive oily air into the valve cover chambers.... is it worn rings...? Is ring replacement the only solution?
Following for more of these. This was exactly the information I needed for my VW
So much technical info on this channel, its great.
I wish we had time for more😥
Thank you Andrew! I learned so much. I’m having PCV issues with a big turbo application and I think you may have helped me figure out my issue. 😎👍
Fascinating talk, especially liked the q&a at the end!
Thank you for such a valuable presentation! I was wondering how can we access to the document with recorded crankcase numbers as mentioned in Q&А session at this point. The tip using manometer is awesome!
My mk6 GTI was having a hot start issue where if I shut the hot engine down for more than 15 minutes but it didn’t get cold enough to have the choke engaged it wouldn’t want to restart. It would start for a few seconds then cough and die. I didn’t have any throttle control either. I would have to keep cranking until it would let me use the gas peddle to get it to crank. It started fine when cold. I pulled the intake manifold and had carbon not only on the tops of the valves but the flaps had a lot of carbon. My thoughts were that once it warmed up the carbon became softer and it would run fine but when it started to cool down the carbon on the flaps would cool down and stick not allowing any movement. When cold it had the choke so I didn’t have issues starting cold. I’ve pulled the intake manifold replaced the water pump cleaned the injectors and tops of the valves and put a new intake manifold on. So now just have to change the oil and put fresh coolant and see how she runs. I have to get it smogged this year so I hope all goes well and the hot start issue is solved.
This is good, I learned a lot from you guys. Thanks a lot!
I did have a non turbo 2.7 ,, rather complex system that didn’t work at idle,,, off idle worked just fine,,,,, still great info in this video!
Thanks you for your full explanation
27:20 Isn't it the other way around? The updated PCV runs higher, not lower, crankcase vacuum, right? Higher vacuum signal helps ring seal etc. You are correct the updated PCV is 100 mbar. 100mbar is already pretty high vacuum in the crankcase. Your information and knowledge on this platform are outstanding.
I believe you are correct. It went from 30mbar to the updated 100mbar
Great video, extremely good info! Thank you so much for sharing.
This webinar is fantastic,
I would like to know the technical difference between the PCV and the catch can breathing systems.
It would be great to get a link to the compiled list of crankcase pressures someplace like Dropbox. ?
How does the soot come back in oil to scar the cylinders further after the pistons and rings are changed to new?
Great Video - Top Information - Thank you for the Work you put in.
thats great training.
Do you know the normal operating crankcase pressure for the 2008 Audi A3 3.2? I am replacing the PCV/Oil Separator under the valve cover and would like to confirm normal operating pressure following the repair.
I have an Audi A6 C7 3.0 DTI 2011 204 HP . Is it normal to have gas when I open the oil cap? I have an oil leak but i think is the gasket of timing chain (soon have to replace 150 K ml ) . can be problem with Crankcase ventilation ? No warning lights and car running smoot
The non-removable lines on the v6 valve covers definitely CANNOT be removed using a similar diameter hose clamp with the screw portion removed
Just because you haven’t been able to do it doesn’t mean it doesn’t work.
Great video thank you! Had a quick question if possible to answer. I have the 2.0t CAEB stage 2. I replaced the PCV with a catch can. Is it okay to attach a breather filter on top the catch can? I tried a vacuum test on the dip stick and nothing happened so I unplugged the plug on the manifold and tested it through there and it seemed to work and stayed steady in the green (cheap Harbor Freight tester) so I assume I don’t have a lot of blow by or crank pressure so not sure if a breather is really necessary but heard it’s something some do to avoid pressure and future leaks. I just want to make sure I don’t have to little pressure or to much. I really am looking for any input and help. I’ve looked everywhere. Please and thank you.
so first ,if you have underpressure by lifting the oilcap you normaly have an issue with the PCV hose or diverter valve .so if you got underpressure then you are in trouble .it is okay to attach a breather filter ,here in germany it is forbidden ,cause you let emissions into air ,that only means you have a sober combustion ,cause you not recirculate the blow by .at the end this is much cleaner to the engine (but not to the nature),a reciculation combustion of blow by gases ends up with carbonisaton of your inner engine parts ,so if you spit out the blow by your engine will be much cleaner.you have the lower pcv hoses that goes upwards to the upper crankcase or around the block to the diverter valve .this valves part is to seperate the blow by into 2 products -gases to recirculate ,and oilcondens to sperate,and let rinse to the intercooler pipes (thats why so much people talking about drain their intercoolers) thats why your emissions test would be much soberer than with the recirculation of the old blow by gases and oilfumes.this catchtank it just a trick to not must clean always your intercooler pipes ,easy access to drain it away -nothing more .the breather filter looks nice but in the end you spitt the emissions out ,and that is not filteret,even when filter looks like it does :D when police in germany will see you driving an open crankcase with catchcan and filter ,they will confiscate car and the hole process to get back the car costs more than 4-5 weeks and 5 k.thanks greta .
Hi can tell me how to repair Audi A5 cabriolet 2010 for oil burning. Tks
Did Audi/VW ever do a recall on the caeb motors with the piston ring issue?
Nope
i have a 2010 a5, been using militec-1 and liqui moly cera tec (alternating between each at every oil change not to be used together), also using liqui moly engine oil flush at each oil change. that and driving gently. so, consuming about 1 qt per 1200 miles.
Turbo breather tube,what is the purpose, no one talks about this
I wish you would do one of these on the 2011 Chevy Cruse... because it's comically bad.
The cruze is pretty easy, if the orange valve is missing you replace the intake manifold, if the transducer pod on the valve cover is leaking at idle you replace the valve cover, if the check valve in the turbo to intake breather tube is leaking you replace that pipe. Better yet, if you find any one piece bad replace the whole set with an aftermarket improved set from Dorman because otherwise you'll be back in there replacing something in a week. Dorman rarely makes parts that are better than OEM, but this is one of those rare cases where they do.
Great info!! I had a PCV issue on my 2.0 with rough idle before and replaced the pcv last year and all was well. Now I seem to be having another issue. My car is running fine no rough idle drives fine but it's smoking out the exhaust blue smoke when accelerating which suggest oil burning. After diagnosis my mechanic narrowed it do to the PCV because as soon as he unplugged the line from the intake manifold the car stopped smoking. Any idea what part of the PCV failed that's allowing excessive oil through?
did you change the diverter valve as well `with the PCV ??cause the oilbareer goes from lower crankcase to upper crankcase and the oil and gases will be normally seperated by the diverter valve .if the the diverter valve is okay it ends up sperating the oil condensat into the intercooler (which is a sign of a functionally valve),if the inner rubber membrane from diverter valve is failed it does not sperate anymore and soak the hole oildrop/oil condensat into it and burn it again .otherwise the only way to burn more oil is when the midsection of your turbo is failed,espsecially the bearing ,that can cause also oilburn.thats why to change all ,not only the lower PCV hose.diverter valve should be around 30-40 bucks.if its not i recommed do a test with your coolingwater if there measuring emissons within ,not that you where having a slowy failing headgasket .greetz from dortmund.
@@MrSpeed808 thanks for the info no I haven't changed diverter valve I'll look into this.
th-cam.com/video/jcZaenAPFxs/w-d-xo.html i upgraded the PCV on my 2010 A5, but did NOT put in a new shaft seal or bolt, and did not update the computer.
however, NO codes. engine runs well, only 60k miles on the car. still uses about 1 qt per 1200 miles, although i am using 30 weight oil. i had used the recommended 40 weight and oil consumption was 1 qt every 2000+ miles, but lost 1 mpg. long term fuel trim under 6%.
commentary was pretty useless. Need-to-know items should have included air direction of the hose system, how to tell when the pancake valve was no longer functioning, partially functioning, stuck completely open, how to test it, etc. ...How much oil in the air from the pancake valve into the Y-pipe can be tolerated... If the pancake valve stays more closed, is this oily air more likely to be burned directly into the manifold, thus saving the turbo's from dealing with it...? Or does it even matter if the turbo's have to deal with it first... If the pancake valve is venting some oil, what is real source of the oily air that produces it, and how to reduce it...or can it actually even be reduced in an older engine..? If it gets to the turbo's...so what happens then? If it accumulates in the pipes to the intercoolers what happens then? If it gets to the pancake valve, it must be at least getting out of the valve cover chamber...but if it's excessive, is it the cause of valve cover gasket oil leaks...? If the pancake valve is open at full boost, then it's doing its job, but if the air coming into the Y-pipe from the pancake valve is more oily, it's going to end up at the turbo's.... Where / why is this excessive
oily air into the valve cover chambers.... is it worn rings...? Is ring replacement the only solution?
Audi and "simplified system" is an oxymoron.