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Fix Common 1.8T Engine Problems VW Audi Skoda Seat [VAG Engine Guide]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2022
- EA113 1.8T Problems
Our focus is on the turbo since 1993 the EA113Very reliable quarter of a million miles is not unheard of on these if well looked after.If you know what the common problems are you can be prepared and hopefully avoid them.
Some of these issues will get worse and eventually cause substantial engine damage if ignored. So keep an eye out for these common symptoms and address the problem before it gets out of hand.Rough running
There are a few issues that can cause the 1.8T to run poorly or have idling issues. Here are the 6 most common causes of rough running and poor idling on the 1.8T.
The most likely culprit is the MAF which will degrade as it ages, and often fails when you run higher boost levels. Coils and plugs are the next most likely problems, check which cylinder is misfiring and swap the coil pack,replacing that will solve the problem Soiled plugs will also cause poor running and this should be easy to spot with oil or soot build up on the plugs themselves, or signs of tracking across the electrode. Replacing the plugs will fix this. Next areas are vac leaks, split pipes and loose joins are typical problem areas, the air is outside of what the ECU expects and it tries to adjust accordingly, but when it becomes a large problem it will fail and you'll get rough running.
The O2 sensor is also an area that can cause these issues, and poor fuel, carbon build up and just general wear and tear can cause the sensor to fail. I've also known the coolant temperature sensor to cause poor running when it starts to fail.
This is commonly on pre 2002 1.8T engines (black cover) the replacement ones have (green covers) and are more reliable.Coolant sensorCoolant sensor can fail due to old age and deterioration. This causes false readings to the ECU messing up it's calculations causing the engine to run lean or rich, depending on whether it is reading too cold or too hot.If the engine is too hot fuelling and timing is adjusted to bring it back into tolerances.
Engine warning light may come on
No temp reading on the dash display
poor performance, lumpy running or loss of power.
Overheating of the engine.
Oil sludge
The causes are the wrong grade of oil, or leaving the oil in for too long.If the oil level drops it can cause oil starvation and result in oil cooking.engine oil used in your 1.8T must be completely synthetic and changed at the appropriate service intervals (see your owner's handbook for specifics, although normally a long life VAG Group service is performed at roughly 24,000* miles and a basic service is performed at around 9000 miles). f fully synthetic 5w-30 oil (Audi long life oil must comply with VW 504 00 or 507 00 specifications; transversely mounted engines require less oil than longitudinally mounted engines) (Castrol SLX long life III is the special Audi approved oil).
Water pump issuesThe plastic blades on the impeller can break, causing poor or no flow of water around the engine, wear and tear can also degrade the water pump to the point it's not workingReplace the water pump when you do the cambelt to avoid this, the labor cost will be saved.Noisy water pump,
Steam from the engine (overheating)Coolant leak is generally due to a broken seal or pipe rather than a water pump failure.Overheating of the engine.Coil pack failure.Each spark plug has it's own coil pack.
These are copper coils, and copper does degrade over time. Bear in mind the engine is running hot and cold cycles and vibrating, and any metal will struggle in these conditions.
Performance problems, flat spots
Rough idling or misfiringEngine Light Comes onStarting problems
Replacing coil packs is very easy and I recommend you get them all replaced at the same time.Timing Belt & Tensioner Problems
Replace the timing belt every 60,000 miles a failure can be catastrophic.
Common tuning problems on the 1.8TN75 valve problems
When boost is lumpy or irregular it can often be down to the N75 valve.
Swapping out the N75 is relatively simple, and there are performance alternatives around that last longer and perform their function more smoothly.
Air Sensor issues: Air Filter Oil Warning You should avoid using an oil-impregnated filter since the air flow sensor will get clogged. If the air flow is too great it can cause the air flow sensor to burn out, so if you've upgraded the turbo and are getting flat spots this could be the cause of that issue.
Use of Blow Off Valves
Because of the loss of system pressure caused by the installation of a blow off valve or dump valve, difficulties with engine control may arise.
We have a video coming up on the K03 K03s and K04 turbos and how to tune them. We also have an in depth video in production covering the tuning of the 1.8T engine and how to get 350hp and what pitfalls to look out for.
www.torquecars...
www.torquecars...
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Thanks.. most professional .. i still can take care of my VW cc because of experts like you
2001 Audi tt 225 Quattro a really fun car
Thanks for the indepth breakdown of this model! I'm on a learning curve right now and so far you help break this motor down and I appreciate the hard work you put in these videos 👏
Samuel from South Africa AUQ engine done 277000 engine never been opened and still pulling strong and runs quiet as a new one but serviced on time and with the best oil available.
I'm in the process of buying an a4 1.8t sport Ltd edition b6 2002 tomorrow... I'll be watching your videos
01 Audi A4 1.8T (factory wideband) with no MAF and an atmospheric blow off. While not something I recommend for most, with proper tuning (not a cookie cutter tune) it is possible. And is quite amazing!
Got a 1.8T Mk1 4x4 octavia, Done/replaced most things in this video myself but i gotta disagree on have a nice sounding dump/splitter valve haha, Good well informed video though!
I worked for VW when these coil packs came out. Pheeeeeew those were some big invoices.
Really enjoying your content keep up the great work
Thanks so much for your support and encouragement. If I can help out just one person I think that is a reason to keep going and putting out more videos. The 1.8T tuning video is nearly finished, there are a few things I need to check but watch this space my friend.
Love your channel on VAG engines and tuning. I’m new to the VAG vehicles. I have a used 2015 Audi TTS 2.0 TFSI CDMA engine w/ 23K miles Competition pkg. Located in the USA. The car is in Mint condition. I went stage 1 ecu tune & stage 2 TCU from 034 Motorsport. Car feels nice. What do you suggest should be done to make it more reliable and must do for maintenance and reliability? Is adding a catch can a needed on these cars? What are areas of concern that need attention? Looking forward to your reply and thanks in advance.🙂
9k miles, more like 9k km is enough to change the oil, that's what some people recommend.
That blew my mind. I change early and often
Do a chat on the bullet proof Porsche 944 2.5 big four engine
Very good information.
i replaced the maf, coils and spark plugs on my car (auq engine leon) and it still shakes on idle but drives perfectly. is it normal for it? afaik its got a map on it too. can it be something else like engine mounts?
New:
- MAF Sensor
- N75
- Oxygen Sensor
- Gas Butterfly
- Cylinder Head
- Turbo
- Downpipe
- Exhaust
- İntercooler
- Radiator
- Water Pump
- Timing Belt
- Oil Pump
And i still have idle problems. The car still tells me that the MAF has low Signal altough its New 😭
Could be a bad cable between the MAF and ECU check the wire connection for continuity and resistance. Is this a DBW engine? I've also known new MAF sensors to play up. Is the MAF the correct one for the amount of boost you are running? Switching to a 4 bar MAF will also require a tweak in the ECU software, but will allow more leeway in higher boost applications.
@@torquecars its an AGU engine and i ordered the Original bosh maf
What readings are you getting at idle and at 2500RPM? It should be around 1.8 to 3.9g/s at idle and 7.5 to 12g/s at 2500rpm (measured from block 002 field 4 or 003 field 2)
Got any vac line leaks on this? Is the turbo the standard OEM spec turbo?
@@torquecars it says p0102 Signal too low, so i cant even get any readings. The İnjectors are New 630cc
The turbo is a Borgwarner k16
Nice parts cannon 😂😂
Hey you should be charging the oil sooner then 9000 miles more like 5000 miles and the time you have the oil In it doesn't matter unless it gets contaminated
I just bought a 2016 Jetta with one and it though munching some valves would be good so theres some malice in the combination palace
I'm assuming the timing chain jumped because of lack of oil changes
@@Crockedflyer811 2016 jetta didn't have this engine
i have the Seat leon 1.8 20v 1m1 engine Auq
Really great info. about the engine. Thx! Going to keep this video as a reference for my MK7 Alltrack 2017. All ready had the exploding sunroof. Do you have a recommendation for how to prevent the replaced sunroof from exploding again? thx
Different engine
brilliant need to know what replacement for the N75 vavle
I need help today my passat just blew out oil under the engine everywhere no oil on the top of the engine what is going on its only got 138,000 miles it's knocking but it will start and run
Hi, i have VW cc 1.8tsi CDAA EA888 engine, i have observed that engine oil is leaking a bit from turbo boost pipe down side near to the radiator on driver side, engine oil become low and have to put quart of oil every 1000km, can you tell me the reason for that oil going to boost pipe, i checked on internet and found that maybe it because of valve guide seal leak issue on turbo engines, can you confirm?
I would say oil change every 5 k miles
01 Jetta AWW
Nice video! Was wondering if you could give me advice about which coil packs to buy for my Seat Ibiza FR 1.8T 20v. The one connected to the fourth cilinder keeps breaking down. I have replaced it 3 times in one year already. When a new one is in it runs just fine. But after a while I keep having harsh start ups and sometimes even misfires of the fourth cilinder. Was thinking of buying some good ones so this problem is solved. Any tips?
I've not tried any so can't recommend them from personal experience but from the lads in the forum and friends I've heard good things about Hella NGK Alpha competition and Awesome GTi's 2.0 to 1.8 coilpack conversions. Is the 4th cylinder subject to more heat? Shielding the exhaust may help, can't remember the layout on these engines now.
Hello . I'm 20 yo and I want to buy a Golf Mk4 GTI , i don't know how reliable is and I want to learn about the engine
Can you tell me the best oil to use of this 3 ones? AGU pulling 220/230hp 5w40 / 10w40 / 10w60
Make sure it is VW spec oil, the grade is only an indicator and it MUST be a fully synthetic oil. Many of the 10W40's oils out there are mineral, and most are using the 5W40 but check the oil is a fully synthetic oil. I used to put Shell Helix ultra, 5w-40 in my AGU Audi A3. I wouldn't recommend a 10W60 on this engine personally.
Do you live in an extremely hot or cold weather area?
No need to go thicker if you have adequate pressure. Use the lowest weight oil you can that gives you the right pressure.
Hi. I've got the 2001 Golf 1.8 GTI turbo. Engine management light has been on for years, but it drives perfectly fine but it burns a bit rich. I have recently replaced the thermostat. Any suggestions on what it could be? Many thanks.
Oxygen sensor
Go to a mechanic
Amazing presentation alrealy subscribe it.waiting for the next content.leon 1.8t 20v stock 180hp.this will hrlp me with my boost leak open circuit P1287 fault code.
Thanks for the support my friend, and appreciate all your comments and questions.
9k is a loooong interval
What about the pcv valve? I suspect mine is stuck closed… lots of condensation build up, condensation from exhaust, it mimics a blown head gasket…. Only just got my car so I’ll be doing a thorough inspection tomorrow but pretty sure it’s a closed pcv.. a stuck open pcv can cause a headache of issues too.
Mines a 225 bam engine, mk1 tt
A blocked closed PCV usually creates oil leaks due to the pressure build up in the crankcase. You might even get a hiss when you open the oil filler cap. Hope you can track down the source of your problems. Hoepfully the previous owner has just done short journeys and when you start driving it properly these issues will go away.
@@torquecars thanks for your feedback… yes that is the case the previous owner did very little miles and she only drove it locally and then it’s been stood for a year on her driveway… it’s amazing how the two faults can mimic each other.
Hello. I’m getting the same problem. A lot of “steam” from oil cap and a lot of outwards pressure from oil cap. What happened to yours? PCV?
Reliable I need help
the cam chain tensioner is one of those that doesnt go often but ive replaced several on these engines. ususaly around 180k-190k ususaly on the AWM heads. happned to mine at 193k. i wouldn't even go 9,000k on oil changes on these engines id go a max of 5,000 they eat oil and with less than 5 quarts of oil you will be out of oil in 9000k not everyone is smart enough to check their oil.
Great tip, my tensioner went around 80,000 so I guess I was unlucky. These are pretty solid and reliable engines though, it almost seems cruel to list common faults, but this is what people were asking for so the top faults were compiled into this video. Totally agree with you on the oil though. It does seem the newer ones are more prone to using oil than the early engines.
They shouldn't burn that much oil unless they've been neglected, but 9000 miles on these engines is definitely too long for an oil change
What the heck is a lumpy tick over?
Perhaps I'm using a British English phrase here. Lumpy - undulating, irregular or erratic. It doesn't idle smoothly and revs will rise and fall instead of maintaining a constant rpm. I do try to avoid these localization's in language and tend towards US terms so this feedback is useful.
@@torquecars Roger that.
@@RetreatHacker You just used British English.
@@wolz256CHEESE GROMIT!!!!
Turbocharged cars degrade there oil really fast increased temperatures
Totally agree, when you shut off the engine if the turbo is hot it effectively cooks the oil inside so it makes sense to allow the turbo to cool before you switch off the engine for a few moments.
Worst engine I have ever had. vw 1.8 tsi after only 40 000 km consumed more then 1l of oil per 500 km.
Not the same engines. It's about old 1.8T and not 1.8TSI/TFSI
Different engine 🙄🙄