How to Diagnose and Fix EGR Faults - Ford Escape & Maverick, Mazda Tribute + OTHERS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- NEW: GREAT PRICE! Get the Motorcraft DPFE4 sensor part here: amzn.to/29lxd4s
OBD2 scanner here(USA): amzn.to/29NTZzc or (UK): amzn.to/29NUjOq
EGR faults on the Ford Maverick / Ford Escape / Mazda Tribute are quite common on the older cars. In fact it is quite a common issue on all cars. The "check engine" light will come on the dash and if you buy a cheap (£12 / $20) OBDII diagnostic scanner you can read the error codes yourself. (See another one of my videos on this subject on channel "comeinhandynow"). The codes are usually P0401 or P0402, which indicate a fault with the egr valve, gas flow or a sensor fault.
Here we describe the EGR system and go over how to test the EGR solenoid, EGR valve and DPFE sensor. This car needed both a new EGR valve (leaking diaphragm) and a new DPFE sensor, which was not giving the correct output voltage and not sensing the flow of gas.
Both of these faults are quite common. Beware that the parts can be expensive and hard to get unless you shop around. A Motorcraft part DPFE4 was found on the Internet, which was compatible and was 1/3 of the price despite being shipped from the USA to the UK.
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thankyou so much for an in depth diagnostic and solution video. I purchased a maverick yesterday and has the same trouble. thanks to you I've ordered the dpfe sensor and my hairline is no longer receding. many thanks.
Glad it helped, thanks for the comments.
Fantastic. This was exactly what I found on a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0L (USA), after first replacing deteriorated vacuum lines, testing the EGR solenoid, and cleaning the EGR valve assembly.
Thank you very much @comeinhandynow!
A couple of things that may be helpful to the next person:
I was able to gently insert small paper clips into the backside of the electrical connector with it still attached, so there was no need to strip the wires.
In lieu of finding a hose with just the right OD to shove inside the reference pressure hose, I pulled the reference pressure hose off and put on a longer hose on the reference barb to test with.
My factory Motorcraft P/N was 2F1E-9J460-AB. Borg-Warner (Borg Warner Division, now a subsidiary of Standard Motor Products) makes a replacement, P/N EGR631, sold at O'Reilly's (with limited lifetime warranty) and Amazon as well: www.amazon.com/Borg-Warner-EGR631-Position-Sensor/dp/B000E6X7HI
Thanks for you comments and tips, along with that part suggestion. Here is the same link in short format amzn.to/2J2KwYf
After wading though EGR p0401 videos, your video saved my butt. My problem ended up being a plugged or restricted DPFE Orifice tube. I sprayed sensor cleaner down the EGR tube and its two Downstream and Upstream tubes then blew all three lines out with my compressor air. That fixed a intermittent P0401 code that popped up every 30-40 miles. Thanks for your help.
Great. Thanks for the feedback.
video was helpful fixing my issue.
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback.
where does the the power come from to the EGR solinode ? 12 volt live all the time ? or is the voltage variable from the ecu ?
Probably on and off control from the ecu.
HI great video thanks. Measured 0.19 volts on the DPFE which increased to 1.45 volts after the ignition had been on for a while and the sensor felt warm. Blowing throught the tube made no change to the voltage either way so figure the sensor is duff. This is on a Maverick XLT 2.0l. The link you supplied was for a DPFE4 sensor and when putting in the car details for a Ford Escape (nearest I could find) it said it wasnt compatible but directed to a DPFE 15. My sensor is 2F1E-9J460- AA. Do you know what the difference is and is there any way of getting equivalent numbers to check. Have had a look but no luck. Have cured the rather lumpy drive temporarily by unplugging the solenoid which keeps the EGR permanently shut. Could that damage the CAT long term do yoiu think? BTW local Ford garage wants £205 for that sensor.
I'm not sure of the differences. It may be down to the physical size and how it fits, or possibly different air flow rates. I did come across this that has some other part number cross references
www.johnstonauto.com/news/PDF/MTCDPFESensor.pdf
And I see the dpfe15 is sold by many on eBay for a lot cheaper than the dealer, use the following link:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=9&pub=5575193927&toolid=10001&campid=5337910930&customid=&icep_uq=Dpfe15&icep_sellerId=&icep_ex_kw=&icep_sortBy=12&icep_catId=&icep_minPrice=&icep_maxPrice=&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg
I may be wrong but as a personal opinion I think it unlikely to damage the cat.
Hi! Thanks for the video. I have idle problems with my 2001 2.0L Tribute. I checked the egr, works fine. Cleaned the the metal pipe from the egr. Changed the IAC and DPFE sensor with new ones and the idle improved like 90%. But, after some km, the check engine light comes back on. What do you think i should do? Thanks
Get an obd2 scanner to get the engine code (really cheap, see video description, the wifi dongle type at about £12 or $15 will work via a smartphone). See if the error code being reported gives any more clues as to the problem.
I have an OB scanner via smartphone. Error given is P0401, no more details.
That error is 'insufficient exhaust gas flow through egr valve'. So why does it think this?
From another site:
Causes:
A code P0401 most likely means one or more of the following has happened: The DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a blockage in the EGR (tube), most likely carbon buildup The EGR valve is faulty The EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vaccuum
Possible Solutions:
In fixing this code, it is quite common for people to just replace the EGR valve only to have the OBD code return. The EGR valve is not always the culprit. Use a vacuum pump and pull the EGR valve open while monitoring engine RPM's & DPFE voltage. There should be a noticable difference in RPM's with the EGR open Clean out the EGR valve and/or tubing to remove deposits Check the voltage at the DPFE, compare to specified values (refer to a repair manual for your specific model) Replace the DPFE sensor (with a good quality / OEM one) Replace the EGR valve
I hope that helps work it out.
Hi, thanks for the video.. i have a mazda Tribute 2.0 year 2003, and had problem with rough idling and drop rpm when throttle climb up at around 2000rpm. I forget the fault code when it got checked at the dealer but it lead us to egr system. Mechanics told it's the selenoid so we replace it but the issue persist. Will bought a obd scanner to ensure the fault code and trouble shoot it. Any guide/reference on how to clean the egr valve and the exhaust tube? Currently we disconnect the cable to selenoid, and engine run smooth. What will be the long term effect? If there's none, how can i make the system think everything are OK so the check engine light will shut off?
Maybe its the pressure sensor, like in the video. It's quite common that they go faulty. If you shop around they are not that expensive to replace. You can test the old one yourself, like in the video.
If its rough idling I suspect that the egr valve is opening when it shouldn't be, so again the likely cause is that dpfe sensor.
Disconnecting the egr valve stops exhaust gas recirculating which means you are producing more harmful NO2 in your exhaust. Not good for the environment but doesn't make that much difference to the engine. I would recommend testing the sensor and if faulty replacing it.
I have scan it and as expected it's the same fault that you have. I will try to find the sensor on ebay, one of my colleague will return from London back to Indonesia. I wonder how i can ensure i'm buying the right sensor.
And i hope it's not the valve!
where are two oxygen sensors of Marverik ( escape 2.0 2002 ) ?
I would have a look in the Haynes workshop manual, cheap to buy. E.g: on Amazon: amzn.to/3joAaWq
Hi, Excellent video. I have a code P1406 on my 2002 ford escape xlt v6. (It says: "DPFE Downstream hose off" ). I've checked already, but no hose off. Any suggestions? Thanks
Thanks, I can only suggest going through each part of the egr system and checking it out as per the video. If I were to guess, and you see no leeks or hoses off, then I would say it's a faulty DPFE sensor. The rational being that the ecu sees a pressure drop, but it may be the sensor giving a wrong reading, rather than a hose off. Those DPFE sensors are reasonably cheap (see video description for buying links) and they don't last forever.
thanks a lot. i'll do that
Could you unplug the erg system and run the car like that?
You could but it would probably throw up an engine warning light, which would then be an MOT failure. Easy enough and cheap enough to fix it.
@@comeinhandynow I just simply cut the whole egr system out. Running smooth as glass now🤣
But it stalls straight away if you unplug the EGR sensor
Does the Mazda Tribute 2.0 have a egr value?
Yes according to my quick parts search on ebay:
See ebay.to/2LuV3ej
hi been reading forums on 01 ford escape 200+ mpg. some 300. im getting 150 160. any tips?
Sorry no. Also I don't know what those numbers are but they're not mpg, miles per gallon.
comeinhandynow srry meant miles on full tank. i shouldn't be getting that little my bro has a 99 idk what car and gets more but thanks for the reply
I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0l. I get around 280 miles on a tank of gas. I only use plus also.
@@gucoperator3454 thanks i learned a obd 2 scanner somewhat my brother had readive data. My o2 sensors matched so I think was catalytic convertor. I got rid of it. I got me a 06 sienna. Thanks for the reply
Forgot to say the car is 2003
I have a 2003 ford escape limited. 3.0 v6 dohc. It runs great but now and then ill go to town say 20 miles, go into a store and when I come back out i start it and it misses bad for few seconds then dies. Then it will not start for hour or so. Then it starts and runs fine again. I replaced spark plugs and upper intake manifold gaskets, coil packs are good, replaced fuel filter and check fuel pressure which is fine at 65 pounds. Anyone else having this issue?
Have you tried reading the OBDII port for any error codes? See my other video on cheap readers. Is the fuel pressure fine at the moment you have starting problems or is just measured when it is running fine? The problem is usually the spark or fueling. Running an inline neon spark indicator lamp wired so you can see it flashing all the time will let you if there is any sparking problem when it wont start. If that is ok try and plumb in continuous fuel pressure monitoring to check that when it doesnt start.
comeinhandynow yes there are no error codes except a downstream oxygen censor which has been on since December. Talked to ford dealership today they say with it reading no codes and with me already replacing the catalytic converter, spark plugs, manifold gaskets, fuel filter and coil packs are fine and I am getting spark, they believe it is the fuel pump. I have 65 psi when its running but I havnt been able to check it when its acting up out on the road. They said they believe its heating up then when I go to restart the fuel pump won't kick in but after it sets for an hour and cools the fuel pump kicks on and works fine. Would you agree? And thanks a lot for responding!
It is possible, even bordering on probable, but it would be nice to confirm it is a fuel pressure problem before spending loads more money on a new pump. I had a somewhat similar problem on a completely different car, a Triumph Stag. It would intermittently cut out after about a mile, but would start ok after turning the ignition off. To diagnose it (after first confirming it was sparking ok) I permanently plumbed in a fuel pressure gauge (quite cheap) in the engine bay and then I got a cheap webcam looking at the gauge wired to the in car DVD player screen so i could see the pressure on the gauge while driving! That confirmed a fuel pressure drop off when it stalled. It turned out to be a problem with corrosion in contacts in the wiring to the pump, not the pump itself (I had already swapped pump). That is often a problem with old cars, copper oxidizes and make contacts resistive, so in my case some power was still getting to the pump but not enough current to make it work reliably and sometimes it would stick off. Turning the ignition off and on would kick it back to life.
Running a new wire from the fuse box to the pump fixed it.
I could see that the wiring was at fault because measuring the voltage across the pump showed it was a few volts less than the battery voltage, hence poor wiring.
The anecdote is just to say it is important to try and diagnose the cause. So if you can I would see if you can monitor fuel pressure when the problem shows and if that shows that its the problem then check the voltage across the pump in case of similar wiring resistance problems to what I had.
comeinhandynow that is great advice. Thank you very much!
Your steering wheel is on the wrong side.You better fix that too😁
Most people are right handed. In case you need to gesticulate or grab something out of the window then the steering wheel should be on the right. The correct side. 🤣😀😉