I don't understand why you had to disconnect the fuel line. Couldn't you have removed the intake manifold without taking off the fuel line? It seems like it would have fit just fine. Thanks you answer.
To make things easier. Probably you could leave the fuel system attached, but I decided for the video and recording space to remove them. + ( on the side, I tested the injectors if they aren't faulty or clogged). 2 birds in 1 shot
🤔 It all depends if you have to work on the same engine, there are 2 types of engines. But you can easily remove only the fuel rail with the injectors, without separating it from the fuel hose, that is a possibility too.
can you check by your vin number in catalogue what part number of pcv valve suppose to be in your car? Im asking because in mine is L356-13-890 by catalogue but is impossible to by it, L3K9-13-890 looks same and maybe was same story in your case ?(it could confirm that those the same but with different part number)
The original one was L3K9-13-890, but if you want original one, only places to get them From Mazda, or buy from Japan. You don't find the original PCV valve on the usual websites.
i was not long time a go when you change that PCV valve, do you remember / or can you check if there is a air pressure coming from oil cap and dipstick while engine is running? i am slightly suspicion that this valve might be a reason why i have air blowing out those two places.
Ah blow-by. PCV is usually the suspect, but it could the breather hoses, or the engine is leaking combustion. That I have to check, if my cars engine got blow-by
Hi Klavs, just discovered yor channel, wich engine do you have (was really not expecting to be such a nightmare of an engine to work on)...was thinking to buy the petrol 2.5 but after watching this i have serious doubts...
Hi. Yeah, this is a 4 cylinder 2.5 L petrol. Oh, you will be out of luck on the diesels too. The pcv valve on some of diesels is at the back of the engine. There's 1 engine that has the valve in a good-ish location, though, don't know what engine it is exactly
Hi Klavs.......... Great "How-To" video on the PCV replacement Is this a common problem on the M3 + M6 with that engine...? Would you advise....... If the engine idles well & fuel consumption is fine. Would you advise the PCV is still working..? My GY-wagon is up to 200k km & am reading a few stories about the PCV sticking open or closed
Hi. From the information you told me I would say that it's fine ...., BUT these aren't the only symptoms of a failing PCV valve. Check for oil leaks. Check if the oil looks good ( no discoloration or bad smell). Check, when you accelerate, the engine isn't hissing or whistling. Check the exhaust smoke, if it isn't coming out in a weird color. Trouble starting the engine. Then you will be aware, in what state the PCV valve is in.
This is the best video about this job on youtube. 👍. Do you have any information about the transmussion torque sequence and bolt pattern on a mazda 3 pan?. Cheers
Usually if you don't have any information on bolt patterns or torque sequences. The fall back for bolt pattern is do: star shape pattern, or opposite from the one you started, to tighten the pan / gaskets evenly. For torque you start hand tight, then half the torque required and the third time the torque recommended.
Im having air pressure coming out by the dipstick hole, i checked the small hose coming from above the Air Intake, and its vacuuming, a mazda website says that means the PCV is okay, can you confirm this way of diagnosing the PCV?
the vacuum to PCV, it isn't the only way, but one of them. But you might have a bigger problem, dipstick is connected to the oil pan, is your car idling / driving normally?
@@KlavsX_ yes the idling is not doing anything strange, just about 1000 RPM for a while on start, and then totally stable around 600 RPM, during driving it doesnt do anything weird, however i feel like its a bit weak, but cant say for sure as i havent ever had another cx5 2.0
@@KlavsX_ i have only replaced spark plugs, its suposeedly up for 10k oil replacement in about 1.5, but i will do it all this week, thanks for the info, i will comment again after doing these changes
@@KlavsX_ in the end we did it from above, but its doable from underside by removing the starter engine, however thats a bit pointless, as when we were removing the intake we realized that there was a lot of oil in parts that were suffering due to the failing PCV valve, the process of taking apart the whole air intake is perfectly justified: take apart, clean sensors, clean intake, then close again
@@rodrigod4 Sadly, that's one of the worse situacaions. It is doable from underneath, but nor I, and I can bet, you wouldn't recommend other people to do this job from the underside. Better do a bit more and have space and knowledge of situations with the seals, gaskets.
I don't understand why you had to disconnect the fuel line. Couldn't you have removed the intake manifold without taking off the fuel line? It seems like it would have fit just fine.
Thanks you answer.
To make things easier.
Probably you could leave the fuel system attached, but I decided for the video and recording space to remove them.
+ ( on the side, I tested the injectors if they aren't faulty or clogged). 2 birds in 1 shot
@@KlavsX_Thank you very much. I'm also facing a replacement, but I don't want to disturb the fuel system."
🤔 It all depends if you have to work on the same engine, there are 2 types of engines.
But you can easily remove only the fuel rail with the injectors, without separating it from the fuel hose, that is a possibility too.
can you check by your vin number in catalogue what part number of pcv valve suppose to be in your car? Im asking because in mine is L356-13-890 by catalogue but is impossible to by it, L3K9-13-890 looks same and maybe was same story in your case ?(it could confirm that those the same but with different part number)
The original one was L3K9-13-890, but if you want original one, only places to get them From Mazda, or buy from Japan.
You don't find the original PCV valve on the usual websites.
turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, then turn it all the way to the left and return it to straight. The key position is on.
Sadly that method doesn't work on my gh model. I wish they would turn back to that
i was not long time a go when you change that PCV valve, do you remember / or can you check if there is a air pressure coming from oil cap and dipstick while engine is running? i am slightly suspicion that this valve might be a reason why i have air blowing out those two places.
Ah blow-by. PCV is usually the suspect, but it could the breather hoses, or the engine is leaking combustion.
That I have to check, if my cars engine got blow-by
Hi Klavs, just discovered yor channel, wich engine do you have (was really not expecting to be such a nightmare of an engine to work on)...was thinking to buy the petrol 2.5 but after watching this i have serious doubts...
Hi. Yeah, this is a 4 cylinder 2.5 L petrol.
Oh, you will be out of luck on the diesels too. The pcv valve on some of diesels is at the back of the engine.
There's 1 engine that has the valve in a good-ish location, though, don't know what engine it is exactly
Thanks, awesome channel by the way! 🍻
Hi Klavs.......... Great "How-To" video on the PCV replacement
Is this a common problem on the M3 + M6 with that engine...?
Would you advise....... If the engine idles well & fuel consumption is fine. Would you advise the PCV is still working..?
My GY-wagon is up to 200k km & am reading a few stories about the PCV sticking open or closed
Hi. From the information you told me I would say that it's fine ...., BUT these aren't the only symptoms of a failing PCV valve.
Check for oil leaks. Check if the oil looks good ( no discoloration or bad smell).
Check, when you accelerate, the engine isn't hissing or whistling.
Check the exhaust smoke, if it isn't coming out in a weird color.
Trouble starting the engine.
Then you will be aware, in what state the PCV valve is in.
Hello! How did you determine that this valve needed replacing?
was using a lot fuel and didn't had much power.
@@KlavsX_does the mazda 6 2010 have an iacv, if so where is it located
my mazda doesn't, but if it would, then it should be next to / behind the throttle body.
Good video and advice ,,thanks.
Glad this video could help
This is the best video about this job on youtube. 👍. Do you have any information about the transmussion torque sequence and bolt pattern on a mazda 3 pan?. Cheers
Usually if you don't have any information on bolt patterns or torque sequences.
The fall back for bolt pattern is do: star shape pattern, or opposite from the one you started, to tighten the pan / gaskets evenly.
For torque you start hand tight, then half the torque required and the third time the torque recommended.
@@KlavsX_ Thankyou 👍
You are welcome and good luck 👍
Just out of curiosity. Did you find the issue as to why the car didn’t start ?
Yes. Car lost the key signal / key password
dude why didn't you put some WD-40 around the fuel injectors? you have to take it out and clean it anyways after.
😅 Don't worry, I did. Even tried WD-40 specialist penetrant after the normal stuff didn't work.
Had to edit almost all of that struggle out. 😂
Im having air pressure coming out by the dipstick hole, i checked the small hose coming from above the Air Intake, and its vacuuming, a mazda website says that means the PCV is okay, can you confirm this way of diagnosing the PCV?
the vacuum to PCV, it isn't the only way, but one of them.
But you might have a bigger problem, dipstick is connected to the oil pan, is your car idling / driving normally?
@@KlavsX_ yes the idling is not doing anything strange, just about 1000 RPM for a while on start, and then totally stable around 600 RPM, during driving it doesnt do anything weird, however i feel like its a bit weak, but cant say for sure as i havent ever had another cx5 2.0
When was the last service on spark plugs / fuel filter / oil / and all air filters?
That could be one of the causes of the weak.
@@KlavsX_ i have only replaced spark plugs, its suposeedly up for 10k oil replacement in about 1.5, but i will do it all this week, thanks for the info, i will comment again after doing these changes
what was the reason you changed the pcv valve
rough idle and bad fuel consumption
Holy heck that was a lot of work to replace a tiny plastic part
😅 it is, and that part opens up to more spending, as there are together 6 gaskets, that you should change... yeah.
seems to be the same for cx5 2016, anyone can confirm?
Is it? Even the same part number? That's interesting, that will open up possibilities and more parts
@@KlavsX_ at least structurally, its the same
It looks like there enough room to change the PCV from below without removing a single screw
😅 Good luck with that. Update us if you manage all that without removing a single screw.
For video purpose I had to remove all that
@@KlavsX_ yeah i w doubt its really possible, but i wiill report later
It is possible, but, you will be under the car and fishing for bolts. It will be quiet time consuming process
@@KlavsX_ in the end we did it from above, but its doable from underside by removing the starter engine, however thats a bit pointless, as when we were removing the intake we realized that there was a lot of oil in parts that were suffering due to the failing PCV valve, the process of taking apart the whole air intake is perfectly justified: take apart, clean sensors, clean intake, then close again
@@rodrigod4 Sadly, that's one of the worse situacaions.
It is doable from underneath, but nor I, and I can bet, you wouldn't recommend other people to do this job from the underside. Better do a bit more and have space and knowledge of situations with the seals, gaskets.