Hi Klav. The problem is not necessarily the rubber. Rust in the boot is often mainly from a failed rear wiper seal. The failed seal allows water in and down through the plastic hatch latch flap. Replacement of the seal requires removal of the wiper motor. I treated my rust issue by wire brush (an old de-coking brush)., I laid down rags soaked in Phosphoric acid on all treated areas then cleaned, primed and top coat. I removed the factory rubber bungs permanently. The other issue is water past the rear body tail lights. I didn't bother trying to reseal the units, rather I found the lowest point in the jack well and punched good sized hole using a 'podgy' bar. The other side drains. The podgy gives a shaped/formed exit that will allow water to exit without gathering at the cut edge by capillary action that a drilled hole would provide-- No more rust issues! The spare wheel cavity was also given extra drain holes at the lowest point with the podgy bar Good videos mate
Hi. Yeah, that sounds about right, for me the rear wiper seal starting to crack, need to replace that. That is a good solution, only, the can shouldn't have any water inside xD In winter the windows fog up so fast 😅
Thanks to you and this video, I saw that my new Mazda also has traces of corrosion in this place. Fortunately, not as much as yours, just a few traces, although mine is from 2007. Greetings from Poland! Zoom-Zoom!
👋 oooh Hello. That sounds alright, but you should check your Mazda wheel arches and underside, as the GH Mazda's from factory have really weak or no rust prohibiting coating
If you have that much rust in your trunk, your rear suspension is probably almost non-existent. I went through this myself a year ago. I fought with rust on the chassis for two months
The suspension is good, ( not rusted to hell), but needs changing as I don't know when it's been done. I can tell you that the subframe needs quiet a lot of work, I will buy a new rear subframe. chassis will be next after rockers
Hi Klav. The problem is not necessarily the rubber.
Rust in the boot is often mainly from a failed rear wiper seal.
The failed seal allows water in and down through the plastic hatch latch flap.
Replacement of the seal requires removal of the wiper motor.
I treated my rust issue by wire brush (an old de-coking brush)., I laid down rags soaked in Phosphoric acid on all treated areas then cleaned, primed and top coat. I removed the factory rubber bungs permanently.
The other issue is water past the rear body tail lights.
I didn't bother trying to reseal the units, rather I found the lowest point in the jack well and punched good sized hole using a 'podgy' bar. The other side drains. The podgy gives a shaped/formed exit that will allow water to exit without gathering at the cut edge by capillary action that a drilled hole would provide-- No more rust issues!
The spare wheel cavity was also given extra drain holes at the lowest point with the podgy bar
Good videos mate
Hi.
Yeah, that sounds about right, for me the rear wiper seal starting to crack, need to replace that.
That is a good solution, only, the can shouldn't have any water inside xD
In winter the windows fog up so fast 😅
Thanks to you and this video, I saw that my new Mazda also has traces of corrosion in this place. Fortunately, not as much as yours, just a few traces, although mine is from 2007.
Greetings from Poland! Zoom-Zoom!
👋 oooh Hello. That sounds alright, but you should check your Mazda wheel arches and underside, as the GH Mazda's from factory have really weak or no rust prohibiting coating
If you have that much rust in your trunk, your rear suspension is probably almost non-existent. I went through this myself a year ago. I fought with rust on the chassis for two months
The suspension is good, ( not rusted to hell), but needs changing as I don't know when it's been done.
I can tell you that the subframe needs quiet a lot of work, I will buy a new rear subframe.
chassis will be next after rockers